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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Project Warhead

Started by warhead2, November 01, 2005, 10:57:13 PM

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warhead2

Did a little more work today was able to Barrow a cherry picker and pull the engine had everything disconnected a while back was just sitting on the motor mounts. Bought a engine stand today also. Will get the engine on the stand this weekend once I buy some bolts to mount it to. Decided to remove the clutch and flywheel.  The clutch was supposedly the reason the car was parked. Will post this weekend with an update. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask.

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warhead2

Another update. Still working on the underside. Using sanding sponges to sand the dirt type grit and lite surface rust. I finally finished removing the driveline attached to the axle, wasn't worried about it till now. Its in my way for sanding. Just removed the 2 u brackets.
Also removed the last exhaust hanger. Sanded,cleaned then primed the area between the spare tire and rear axle.
Also was pulling out old mouse nest debris thats inside the frame. Had to be careful lol was pulling stuff out and stabbed my finger on a 30yr old sticker. Found several more after that.

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warhead2

Here is the after picture that i forgot on the post above. Also 2 pics of what i got done so far on the rear spare tire area.

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warhead2

Did some cancer(rust)  removal to see how far some of it has spread. Have only the before picture of the rear passenger fender area. Will post later and after picture.
I know my cuts aren't perfect but more of exploring. Will make cuts better when i get my welder up and running. Fun part will be the wheel well area since there are 2 sheets of metal 1 inside and 1 outside

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warhead2

Did some more light sanding, primed n undercoating on the rear spare tire area, also removed the muffler still along ways to go cleaning and undercoating

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warhead2

Dropped the fuel tank tonight still had around
8 or 9 gallons left inside for 32yrs. Smells amazing lol. Cleaned the rust off one of the tank straps then primed all of it except where the bolt was just need to remove it just got tired and will do it later. Just need to clean up the underside now for undercoating

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warhead2

Worked on scraping some seam sealer inside the floor area no picture. Then decide on cleaning the underside on drivers rear passenger floor. I used a sanding sponge to clean up then mineral spirits to clean. I put down primer in preparation for undercoating with truck bed liner. Forgot a pic of the primer. Only worked this small area for now.

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warhead2

Lol on the flex seal Pinto. I have some fiberglass drywall tape maybe that will work place on the inside then coat it.

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Wittsend

It will be interesting to see how the Flex Seal hold up. why do I see an image of Phil Swift spraying a Pinto with Flex Seal and driving it across a lake. LOL You might consider model aircraft fiberglass with Flex Seal applied as a possibility for the holes in the boots. Maybe it is something that can also be 3D printed? There are a number of "rubbery" plastics available.

warhead2

Ok an update have only done some small stuff. I got the driver's spring readjusted was not in the bottom grove properly and got the upper n lower ball joint connected to the spindle. Then just clean n primed and undercoated the lower radiator support. Also sprayed flex seal on my hood hinge boots. Drivers boot was in good shape no rips. passengers boot is alot worse them a big split. I got both cleaned n coated l got 2 coats on both but will have to work with the passenger one to get the crack sealed. But this is my update incase anyone was wondering.

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TIGGER

Quote from: Wittsend on April 25, 2021, 02:28:21 PM
That's interesting. Does the Cruise Wagon have the slots cut for the window pivot point with a rubber or plastic plug? Or is there no holes in the area?  My wheel well looks fine, no rust through. Thus the only logical place for water to get in was the window pivots. I wonder if the cars with non-movable rear windows get rust there too???


Now that I think about it..., I have the aluminum trim that sits rather horizontal and can very well become a channel for the water that drips off the windows. There has to be holes to mount that and maybe that is the source of the water??? Ford wanted you to buy a Pinto..., and three years later buy a Mustang. Like they should have cared.

When you take the side panels off it basically looks like a window wagon minus windows with a few additional holes for the hardware to secure the side panels onto the car.  You could theoretically take the side panels off and put glass back in if you wanted.  Everything is there.
79 4cyl Wagon
73 Turbo HB
78 Cruising Wagon (sold 8/6/11)

Reeves1

Lower control arm should move enough to line the holes up....

warhead2

Did a little bit of work last night. Was going to install my new from speedway strut arm but the one of the holes on the lower control arm was off by a little bit. I tried with everything loose but didn't work. Looks like i may have to bend it some how to match the original.

Then I cleaned up some more of the passenger fender area also removed the brake cooler box then primed and sprayed undercoating. Didn't spray the bumper bracket yet going to remove it and clean it up.

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warhead2

I forgot to take my endo scope camera with me but I checked slightly behind the carpet panel. didn't see any rust streaks on the panel or in the lower panel.  Another thought is maybe some water seeped into this seam in the corner of the door frame on the car.

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warhead2

Quote from: Wittsend on April 25, 2021, 02:28:21 PM
That's interesting. Does the Cruise Wagon have the slots cut for the window pivot point with a rubber or plastic plug? Or is there no holes in the area?  My wheel well looks fine, no rust through. Thus the only logical place for water to get in was the window pivots. I wonder if the cars with non-movable rear windows get rust there too???


Now that I think about it..., I have the aluminum trim that sits rather horizontal and can very well become a channel for the water that drips off the windows. There has to be holes to mount that and maybe that is the source of the water??? Ford wanted you to buy a Pinto..., and three years later buy a Mustang. Like they should have cared.
Im not sure I will check tomorrow. I will have to remove the carpet panel inside but ill see what I can see with my endo scope camera first and take some pictures. There was no trim on mine. Im sure someone else might chime in on Cruising Wagons with rust in the same place.

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Wittsend

That's interesting. Does the Cruise Wagon have the slots cut for the window pivot point with a rubber or plastic plug? Or is there no holes in the area?  My wheel well looks fine, no rust through. Thus the only logical place for water to get in was the window pivots. I wonder if the cars with non-movable rear windows get rust there too???


Now that I think about it..., I have the aluminum trim that sits rather horizontal and can very well become a channel for the water that drips off the windows. There has to be holes to mount that and maybe that is the source of the water??? Ford wanted you to buy a Pinto..., and three years later buy a Mustang. Like they should have cared.

warhead2

Quote from: Wittsend on April 24, 2021, 07:18:54 PM
Just a guess but I'm think that 99% of the time rust rearward of the door/above the sill is from water getting in where the rear, side windows pivot. Maybe if you live were it snows it is different. But my car is Californian and I still have rust there. It looks like there is a box beam behind the rocker and that is why the rust is up high. Another member posted pictures and I'll put some up here.
My passenger side floor was shot and I made a replacement floor out of sheet. But other smaller areas that aren't too bad I used POR-15 and their mesh. Sounds like a cheap way out but frankly I have had cars 10+ years doing this and it looks like I did it yesterday. Getting too old to think it will matter going forward for me. The picture is dark but all I have. I make the dimples with two different sized sockets on either side of the metal and hit the smaller with a hammer. It worked but it is easy to get the sockets out of alignment (you are doing this blindly) and I permanently marked my index finger when the 5lb hammer slipped and hit my finger!  >:(
Mine is a cruisen wagon so no windows. Maybe the panels had a leak but also had field Rats and mice in the 30yrs it sat Maybe rat pee?? Also this is an Oklahoma car and still in Oklahoma so no heavy road salt. Also we do get some snow so maybe it froze on the outside in that area or worked its way in. I didn't remember seeing any rust streaks by looking from the inside that area but will double check this week with my Endo scope. Thanks for the suggestion.

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Wittsend

Just a guess but I'm think that 99% of the time rust rearward of the door/above the sill is from water getting in where the rear, side windows pivot. Maybe if you live were it snows it is different. But my car is Californian and I still have rust there. It looks like there is a box beam behind the rocker and that is why the rust is up high. Another member posted pictures and I'll put some up here.
My passenger side floor was shot and I made a replacement floor out of sheet. But other smaller areas that aren't too bad I used POR-15 and their mesh. Sounds like a cheap way out but frankly I have had cars 10+ years doing this and it looks like I did it yesterday. Getting too old to think it will matter going forward for me. The picture is dark but all I have. I make the dimples with two different sized sockets on either side of the metal and hit the smaller with a hammer. It worked but it is easy to get the sockets out of alignment (you are doing this blindly) and I permanently marked my index finger when the 5lb hammer slipped and hit my finger!  >:(

warhead2

Here are most of the body rust spots that I will need to cut out and weld in new metal when I get a tank of Co2.

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warhead2

Worked on rear floor pans some tonight. Cleand up some rust and then primed it. Then cut into some rust bubbles to see how far the rust spread. Will have to do some more cutting before I find someone good metal.

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warhead2

Quote from: Reeves1 on April 06, 2021, 05:06:54 PM
OEM bolts do not need to be pressed in. Yours may be a bit too large.
If you press them in they may fail ? Depends on how much pressure is applied......?
(I would not do so)
This is a lug bolt the same as wheel lug bolt. It needs pressed in because of the knurl to keep it in place and not spin when taking on or off the nut. I think it is a little bit harder because it is a new strut arm that hasn't had a lug bolt in it. It has to cut the knurl as you press it.

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Reeves1

OEM bolts do not need to be pressed in. Yours may be a bit too large.
If you press them in they may fail ? Depends on how much pressure is applied......?
(I would not do so)

Wittsend

Can't answer your questions but... .  Does it cause anyone else to ponder the fact that we are warned that a microscopic scratch can become a stress riser that can cause a part to fail. Yet lug bolts and a lot of ball joints are pressed in with a multitude of jagged edges?

warhead2

Small update. Called Speedway and talked to one of the experts and he advised me to use a 7/16 20 lug bolt. I tried pressing in with a ball joint press got it almost all the way in may need to use a hydraulic press. But it looks like this size bolt will work.
Does anyone know if the thickness of the head being a problem vs the original that is much flatter? Looking at pictures it doesn't look like it will interfere with anything.

I then cleaned up a little bit of rust  on the drivers frame head n running lights. Just primed it to cover the bear metal. Will clean the frame all the way when i get my bast cabinet set back up.

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Reeves1

Quote from: warhead2 on August 27, 2020, 08:19:50 AM
Put on some truck bed liner on passenger side and some anti rust coating in the strut arm/ frame area. So i tried to install the old studs on the new strut arm and couldn't get it to go any further. Im going to measure the hole and the stud. I believe the holes need to be drilled out just a hair. Ill post my findings in the next few weeks. The strut arm is from Speedway.

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Make darn sure before you drill !
Those bolts are not meant to turn. OEM was likely pounded / pressed in to cut the grooves like you see in your old ones.

rob289c

I have strut rods from an '80 that you are welcome to.  Let me know if you want them.
rob289c

TIGGER

From what I remember the struts are different between the Pinto and Mustang II.  I don't remember what it was off the top of my head as it has been almost 15 years.  I had both front ends at the time and I was parting them out at the same time and I noticed those parts were different. 
79 4cyl Wagon
73 Turbo HB
78 Cruising Wagon (sold 8/6/11)

warhead2

Put on some truck bed liner on passenger side and some anti rust coating in the strut arm/ frame area. So i tried to install the old studs on the new strut arm and couldn't get it to go any further. Im going to measure the hole and the stud. I believe the holes need to be drilled out just a hair. Ill post my findings in the next few weeks. The strut arm is from Speedway.

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warhead2

Partially got the upper control arm in. And installed the upper ball joint on drivers side. Need to readjust my spring to sit in the groove in the lower arm. Need to spray on my truck bed liner on the passenger side before I install the rest on that side.

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warhead2

Quote from: Wittsend on August 07, 2020, 01:49:21 PM
How did you deal with the different strut? I think the main thing it would change is the caster - if anything. But primarily I think it would either correct a design problem - if in fact one existed..., or not even install because things wouldn't line up.
The new strut is for the passenger side. I haven't  tried to install it yet. I think it will work  im hoping.

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