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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Taking the turbo plunge!

Started by 76hotrodpinto, January 27, 2015, 11:59:24 PM

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65ShelbyClone

Quote from: Wittsend on August 10, 2015, 11:50:18 AM
Where as my Turbo swap fired up on the first twist of the key..., it had a miss at idle and ran totally crappy at about the 2,500 RPM range. I literally swapped every component, VAM, TPS, O2 sensor, temp sensors, TFI, distributor, coil, fuel pump, cleaned injectors, various hoses etc. - even the ECU and nothing made a difference. Nearly two years later on a whim I ran 12V directly from the battery to the coil and the problem went away.  I still don't know the cause, but the cure was to install a key switched relay directly from the battery to the coil.

I think the TFI has dwell control built-in, so running coil power through a ballast resistor/resistor wire could cause that problem.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

"Got 100 miles on it since the swap, no major issues at all. This makes me nervous..."

Be thankful for that.  Where as my Turbo swap fired up on the first twist of the key..., it had a miss at idle and ran totally crappy at about the 2,500 RPM range. I literally swapped every component, VAM, TPS, O2 sensor, temp sensors, TFI, distributor, coil, fuel pump, cleaned injectors, various hoses etc. - even the ECU and nothing made a difference. Nearly two years later on a whim I ran 12V directly from the battery to the coil and the problem went away.  I still don't know the cause, but the cure was to install a key switched relay directly from the battery to the coil.

So, be thankful and enjoy. :-)

76hotrodpinto

I'm not having any issues, that I'm aware of(still have yet to run a diagnostic though). Just thought I'd try to eliminate weak links. I'll just get a sticker instead. Got 100 miles on it since the swap, no major issues at all. This makes me nervous...
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

I have never heard that these ignition systems have any special needs myself. I think defective wires are probably a bigger concern than the name on them. Autolite 764 plugs are not the only ones that will work well in a 2.3T, but they are original equipment, cheap, and easy to find.

The quality of ignition components will become more important as power levels increase. Denser mixtures are harder to light off so the coil voltage rises higher before the plug fires which is more demanding of all the insulating parts.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

76hotrodpinto

I keep reading about other builds and their motorcraft wires. I can't seem to find any. I have msd street fire wires now. Not much more quality than the cheapos. I find a lot of posts about how picky the ignition system can be with these, and they all recommend the motorcraft plugs and wires. Maybe half of a 5.0l set?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

I don't know if Motorcraft still has them, but the most common brands you're likely to see in a chain store (at least here) are Borg Warner (BW Auto), Bosch, and the house brand. I find a lot of the sub-$30 sets have very soft boots and sometimes the terminal will pull out of it and take the core too.

Taylor-Vertex, MSD, and Accel probably have good race-grade wires, but I haven't tried them.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

76hotrodpinto

Is motorcraft still making spark plug wires for these? Or what is the best after market wire?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

That's what I have and 185/75-13 rubber is barely enough on dry pavement with a stock 2.3T.  8) On even damp pavement my Runabout will squirm through 4th gear.  :o A wagon might not, but I don't have one of those...

The 8" I found has typical 3.00 gears as well and transmission gear spacing is a concern that's been in the back of my mind for a long time. 3.00s will probably suffice for a while until I go with more gear, a T-Lok, and possibly taller/definitely wider tires.

Depending on the rear ratio and tire size of the donor, a gear ratio can be figured that will match the original car behavior-wise. I think the '87-88 5-speed 'Birds had 3.55s, so exactly matching the RPM at 60mph in 4th in a Pinto with our tire size would require a 3.19 rear ratio.

My older donor car had 3.45s and spun a little higher in 4th, so 3.22s would match the original characteristics. Since 3.25s are the closest available ratio, the choice is obvious.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

76hotrodpinto

I just replaced the back tires, and I couldn't even find a 205-70-13, not without going for a coker or some other big$ tire. I ended up with 185-75-13 tires. They will do until my big wheel swap. The guys at the tire store didn't even believe I was running 205-70's, they hadn't seen any in decades.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Wittsend

"I find that the stock 3.55 rear end I'm using has a bit too much gear even with a T3 turbo. At this point I think 3.25s will be about right for my car, especially as power/torque increases."

I couldn't agree more. Granted that tire size is also a factor. Side rant - Why can't the industry come up with some other measurement that factors rear ratio AND tire size. Something on the order of driveshaft revolutions per 100 ft., or mile or whatever (end of rant)?  When I was looking for my 8" rear at Pick A Part I ran into the guy who who was snagging them all.  He told me except for some limited use, rare, car/year combination the 3.25 was hardly used by Ford. He said the likelihood of finding an 8" with that ratio was basically nil. So to get that ratio it likely won't happen with a junkyard center section swap. It requires purchase of new gears and the task or outside cost of installation.

Otherwise it is 3.00, 3.40 or 3.55.  3.00 was OK as the turbo had the torque to pull that, but as I often complain they were miserable for regular "street speeds." You just couldn't find the right gear/rpm. I have 3.40's now and find them acceptable. I'm running 175-70-13" tires on Ralleye wheels and 65 MPH is 2,600 RPM in 5th gear. But at some point I'm bumping up to 205-60-13".... or .... [195/205]-60-14" if I can find another pair of SSP look a like wheels. Then I think I'll be even happier with the taller tires.  So, if your doing this one on the cheap I'd say 3.40's and tires taller than the basic 175-70-13".

76hotrodpinto

I have an 8" rear end out of an m2. I don't know the gear ratio, but it was a perfect match for the 4sp., not so much the t5 and 13" wheels.

I have plenty of time to thoroughly study the ecu options, as I need to replace every bushing in the car, and spiff it up as I go thru it, before I play the horse power game.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

I find that the stock 3.55 rear end I'm using has a bit too much gear even with a T3 turbo. At this point I think 3.25s will be about right for my car, especially as power/torque increases.

The PiMP is a licensed MegaSquirt-based product. Stinger Performance produces it and the owner is on turboford.org frequently as am I. It was meant to be a plug 'n' play MegaSquirt-II conversion for '83-89 Ford 2.3T vehicles. Since yours is using a factory ECU, it should be plug 'n' play too.

IMO, the throttle response is far crisper and generally better with a speed-density system like the MegaSquirt/PiMP/etc.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

76hotrodpinto

My only complaint is the short tires are putting me at boost ranges when I'm at 35-37mph in 3rd... cruising down the street speed. Or lug 4th out. I think the bigger wheels will solve that.
I haven't done a whole lot of studying on the mega squirt system, other that the pimp is basically a mega squirt(alledgedly same former software designer?), but tailored for the 2.3. I do look forward to getting that vam out of there!
I'm not unhappy with the boost at all. I'm having a blast! Just need longer legs... And a roll cage!
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

Quote from: 76hotrodpinto on August 06, 2015, 09:23:55 AM
Not trying to get more boost out of her, just a little more delay before it starts spooling. Seems to start spooling at around 2400. I'd like to have it start at about 2900-3000.

T3 upgrade time. That or leggier gears and more tire. I have to ask though, why have it spool later?

It isn't really going to be possible without going to a different turbo that has larger exhaust housings available. The other option is to find/adapt a wastegate actuator that opens lower than 10psi and modify the boost control bleeder orifice to make it peak at the same ~15-16psi. Retarding the cam will move the torque later in the revs a bit. The fastest and cheapest solution is to tighten the nut behind the wheel.  ;)

If you get a PiMP ECU, it can provide for boost based on RPM between the wastegate actuator's minimum setting and  however high it will hold without a boost signal. I have my MegaSquirt-II set to provide high boost (16psi) whenever.

Quote from: 76hotrodpinto on August 07, 2015, 10:11:29 AM
Still have the stock cam and lifters. I'm not certain yet, but I'm thinking ranger cam, t3-t4, and the PiMP ecu as my first round of upgrades to the motor. I'm going to hold off on the boost control valve till I get my bigger wheels on. It could be just right if the larger wheels gets me the ratio I want.

Getting a turbo you can grow into is tough to do. A Ranger cam is also not an upgrade unless all you want is roller followers. Lots of people get hung up on the different lobe shapes, but actual events at the valve are indistinguishable from a stock turbo slider. A good aftermarket cam will be big bucks these days, unfortunately. I can hardly believe how much the prices have gone up recently.

Also, avoid TO4B-based compressors if you get a hybrid. They are ancient profiles and none of them are well-suited to the boost and flow requirements of the average 2.3T. There are many ways to identify them, but the easiest is by eight main blades on the compressor wheel.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

pinto_one

Well looks like your on you way to the easy stuff, unbolt and bolt up , at least you can drive the car and make the small mods along the way , looking good and keep us posted , later Blaine
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

76hotrodpinto

Still have the stock cam and lifters. I'm not certain yet, but I'm thinking ranger cam, t3-t4, and the PiMP ecu as my first round of upgrades to the motor. I'm going to hold off on the boost control valve till I get my bigger wheels on. It could be just right if the larger wheels gets me the ratio I want.

I'm going to start the suspension and brake rebuild next though. It's become very clear that all of my bushings are shot, and not up to par with the capabilities of the car now(or before). I'm ordering a tubular A-arm and big brake kit up front, 2" drop. All 5 lug, front and back, via shortened 8.8(with discs) out back. And get a disc brake master cylinder put in. Considering going 4-link on the axle, but not sure yet.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Wittsend

Not sure what cam you are running, but with the Ranger Roller I'm "squeezing that last few drops out of the sponge" between 4,500 and 5,000 RPM. For sure by 5,500 RPM the "sponge is dry."  At least in hard throttle applications I feel more like I'm driving an old diesel truck that idles at 600 RPM and shifts at 1,200 RPM. It just seems like lag, BOOST, Shift, lag BOOST Shift etc.. Part of it may be my car. I'm still choking on a 2-1/4" exhaust.

From my experience I'd think that delaying the boost onset would be not be advantageous. I prefer to gently "lay into the throttle" and extend the feeling of acceleration. To that end I never found the 3.00 gears to be a detriment for that expressed purpose. They extended the acceleration process. The change to 3.40's was prompted by the need to be in a better RPM range specific to normal street speed.  I'm not racing or anything, just going for that "E Ticket" ride experience. So, we may be looking at different purposed.

As far as delaying boost I'd thing going away from the IHI turbo would help. As I understand it was selected to bring boost on earlier - though it wheezes out sooner. 

76hotrodpinto

Quote from: pinto_one on August 06, 2015, 07:06:13 AM
It's still in control, it only delays the opening of the waste gate for higher boots ,  but don't get too greedy with it , 💥. Nice that you got it finished, and thanks for sharing your progress with us, it help others that are thinking of doing the same thing , now go and enjoy

Not trying to get more boost out of her, just a little more delay before it starts spooling. Seems to start spooling at around 2400. I'd like to have it start at about 2900-3000.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

pinto_one

It's still in control, it only delays the opening of the waste gate for higher boots ,  but don't get too greedy with it , 💥. Nice that you got it finished, and thanks for sharing your progress with us, it help others that are thinking of doing the same thing , now go and enjoy

76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

76hotrodpinto

Anybody running, or have run a manual boost control valve? How do, did you like it? Is it consistent in it's control? Does it create other issues?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

76hotrodpinto

I got my engine bay wires all wrapped and strapped.





And put in a boot to block that hot turbo wind!



1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

It may have been testing the EGR valve or idle air controller.

The TFI commands a spark even if the computer signal is lost entirely. It functions as a fail-safe so the car won't stop running in the middle of a freeway lane or railroad tracks or some other dangerous place. Since the injectors are paired, the ECU can't drop a single cylinder by cutting fuel either.

OEMs also go to great lengths to avoid controlling the engine in any way with spark only because dumping fuel and air into the exhaust will nuke a catalytic converter.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

Makes sense - sort of. I understand that the injectors fire two at a time. But I have put the test into motion and the car paraded through the rough running cycle. So, I thought it just killed the plug firing. Now I'm perplexed as to what was occurring because the engine went into a mode that replicated an alternating rough running procedure??? 

65ShelbyClone

Quote from: Wittsend on August 04, 2015, 02:04:18 PMBTW, the ECU can do cylinder balance tests (shuts each cylinder off momentarily and measures RPM drop) amongst other mostly unknown things that can be tested. Don't be surprised that you get codes because the ECU tests A/C, power steering, EGR etc. So, in our Turbo Pinto application I'd assume a CEL would be on all the time for those.

Unfortunately the cylinder balance test only applies to engines that had sequential EFI of which the 2.3T wasn't one.

Here's how to do the test light code reading method:
www.troublecodes.net/ford/
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

76hotrodpinto

I was just checking that out. I think I'll order me one. I expect the first conversation between the ecu and I will go something like "KEEE-RIPES!! What the hell happened to me!!"
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Wittsend

Your welcome.  I ran my test wires into the car - as opposed to the stock under the hood location. It makes it easier to to do the testing from the drivers seat. When done I coil the wires up into the glove box. After now having tried my Innova 3145 I'd highly recommend it over the cheaper 3143 or just using the CEL. Having a numerical readout is so nice and assures the code is correct.

BTW, the ECU can do cylinder balance tests (shuts each cylinder off momentarily and measures RPM drop) amongst other mostly unknown things that can be tested. Don't be surprised that you get codes because the ECU tests A/C, power steering, EGR etc. So, in our Turbo Pinto application I'd assume a CEL would be on all the time for those.

76hotrodpinto

That's exactly what I needed to know. Thank you. I did retain the test plugs.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Wittsend

The simple method for reading codes can be frustrating. There are initial codes, then the test codes, then closing codes. And they all have to be counted visually with the check engine light or an analog volt meter by counting pulses and pauses. At various times you need to perform functions based on timed intervals (like pushing the accelerator to the floor).  It is a bit like trying to read Morse code but never having done it before.  Some tests are done with the "Key On-Engine Off" and others "Key On-Engine Running."

There are code "readers" but they are not like OBD II. The simplest plugs into the test port and basically flashes a light like the CEL on the dash does and a switch to trigger the test. They also have a buzzer if you are more audibly inclined. You still have to do the interrupting of the pulses and pauses so it is not much of a help. These are in the $10 range on Ebay.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/equ-3143

  There is a somewhat more expensive type that as far as I can tell does the counting for you and displays a code number. I actually have one, but have never used it. These are in the $30 range.  UPDATE: I just tested mine. It sure takes the "Mystery" out of counting light flashes and pause counts. It does display an actual number! This comes with a book that delves into the deeper side of OBD I too.  http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ino-3145
Ford also had a dealer style Rotunda reader and I think it piggybacked on the ECU. These are not cheap and if I recall correctly when you find one (the right one) are easily in the $500+ range.

Lastly be very weary of any reader that "says" it is OBD I and has even a hint of being an OBD II reader.  From what I saw these would never work. Innova and Equus are the only two "real" OBD I (Ford) readers I am aware of.

You will have had to retain or reinstall the test port from the ECU. It is a somewhat triangular connector with a single wire connector associated with it.  There is all kinds of stuff on the internet about OBD I (Ford) but you might try The Ranger Station http://www.therangerstation.com/ or NATO http://www.turbotbird.com/ as they deal with swap issues. Be careful too because I have seen where not every OBD I (Ford) code number is the same for each engine. Be sure the codes are specific to your engine/year.

76hotrodpinto

Never mind on the faulty tps. I wasn't getting a good contact. Just shoved the pointed probes thru the insulator and all is good. Would still like a tutorial on the whole code reading deal.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

76hotrodpinto

Is there a guide to running codes? A how to for first timers? I haven't found the code list anywhere either, even if I did know how to test it. I know how to hook up either an analog meter or light to the eec test plug, but then...?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.