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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

73 Wagon Project - Brownie

Started by dave1987, December 10, 2009, 02:20:02 AM

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dave1987

Brownie served me well during the time the 78 was out of service for it's front end rebuild. I figured I would honor that with a few semi-decent pictures at dusk while dropping off some extra parts at storage.

My phone does super craptacular pictures when there is no sunlight, so photoshop was helpful in replicating the actual colors and lighting. The grainy look is just the crappy phone camera.


1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

larjohnson

Had a 1971 trunk model in High School, wanted another for old times sake, just purchased another in Washington State, very nice restore project.  I also own an all original 1972 Ford Pinto Runabout, one owner, always garaged, with 33,000 actual miles.  Life is SWEET!!!!

r4pinto

Lookin good Dave! Send some of that elbow grease my way for Harold II  ;D
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

dga57

Brownie just keeps looking better and better!

Dwayne :smile:
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

dave1987

The pictures of the interior are not COMPLETELY accurate! The seat covers are NOT PINK! lol They have some sun bleach but they really are not pink, I swear! :P

Not much left to do to make it comfortable to drive. I am looking to track down a modern style dual knob cassette deck to replace the 20 year old Sears unit that is in there now. To much static in the radio to make it worth turning on. Need to get some new brake shoes as they are nearly gone, and figure out the drive line vibration once and for all.

I may be toying around with the Crane Cams electronic ignition that came with the car as well, maybe I can fix the broken shutter wheel.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Update on Brownie!

I replaced the rear transmission seal for the drive shaft yoke yesterday with one that has a dust boot on it. It doesn't spray oil all over anymore, instead it deposits in the boot of the seal and drips out the weep hole, but it's better than it being slung all over the exhaust and smoking like crazy like it was before.

I am waiting for the local parts store to get the tail shaft bushing I ordered, in. I will have to see if it's fits more snug than the one that came with the rebuild kit. Also I need to get a shop to install the front u-joint and yoke onto the aluminum aerostar drive shaft I have, that way I can see if the vibration is the drive shaft falling apart or not (it has the rubber between the two drive shaft tubes).


Today I drove brownie over to my parents to wash her up and detail her. Much better than all of the dust that was there before! Her paint is still nice after the TR-3 treatment as well. Finally some updated pictures! :D


1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

I removed the stainless "mudflaps" off the car today. No luck getting the road tar and rocks that have been on them for years though, so tomorrow I will try wire wheeling it off at my parents while I am picking up some beds for the kids. They are pretty easy to straighten out as well. With some chrome polish I think they will come out nicely!


I also ordered two brown vinyl lace on steering wheel covers for the car off ebay. They are NOS vintage covers, are are going CHEAP at $1.95 ea. plus shipping! $8.95 for both!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vintage-Lace-On-Steering-Wheel-Cover-Brown-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem41595f6ba7QQitemZ280672299943QQptZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Brownie got her first bath in at least 10 years today!

She also got her first set of BRAND NEW shoes (tires), in at least 15 years today!

She got her paint all polished up (finally) and even a nice fresh coat of caranuba wax tonight!

Detailed her interior, including a good vacuuming and application of Meguiar's vinyl & rubber protectant on all plastic and vinyl surfaces.

She's shiny and ready for summer fun!


Only a few things to finish up before she's FINALIZED for the car show, though. I want to swap out that A/C condenser for an actual transmission cooler from a ford Bronco or F-150, just for the peace of mind that the A/C condenser isn't restricting flow to much. That's $30 to pull one from the junk yard and have it cleaned out before installing it. It will go in place of the condenser and I will be using the same lines/hoses to connect it to the transmission.

Then there is the tail lights. I want to mask everything off and paint around the taillights where the flat black originally was to finish the "well maintained" look of the car. She has polished & waxed paint as well as repainted emblems, why not complete the package with the appropriate black accents?


Tomorrow I am working, but I plan to take the spare tire back to les schwab because they didn't put the best of the old tires on the spare rim like I asked them to. The spare in the car was in there when I got it, and looks like it was used ONCE, however it is dry rotted and flat.

She's starting to become quite the looker! I can't wait to take it on my regular cruise route soon and see how she handles mild hills. She drives smooth, looks smooth, and is quite comfortable to drive!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

I finished rebuilding the C4 automatic transmission and it works flawlessly. It gave Brownie some more get up and go and got rid of some odd vibrations to! Here is the thread about the rebuild.

http://www.fordpinto.com/your-project/1973-c4-rebuild-and-upgrade/

I also changed out the rear axle for the 1973 28k mile axle I used momentarily in my 78 Sedan. It is also a 6.75" and also a 3.41:1 gear ratio, just has less than 1/3 of the miles the original axle had and it's 100 times cleaner!

Take note that I never did anything with the original axle in Brownie. I never popped the cover off or even checked the fluid quality (there was plenty in there when I stuck my finger in the filler hole). I would say it got a good 93k miles for no maintenance!

During the swap I used the original brake drums instead of the ones that were on the replacement axle, and I used the new brake hardware and shoes I put on the car last year. The only different things is the axle housing, differential assembly/carrier, axle shafts and backing plates.

Photo 1 - Old axle

Photo 2 - New axle! :D
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Thanks man! I got your email of the pinto show flyer. I got some guys here at O'Reilly's Auto Parts to post it on their peg board for customers to see! :) Wish I could make it...If time off were not such a pain to get.......
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

apintonut

74 hatch soon to be turbo 2.3
73 sedan soon to be painted
stiletto parts(4 sale)
79 pinto wagon & beentoad
wtb 75 yellow w/ black int. (rally?) like profile pic.

dave1987

I ordered a Pioneer brand Super Transmission Rebuild Kit. It includes the bands, steels and frictions (clutches) and all common wear gaskets and seals (which includes all of the o-rings and gaskets). I won't know if I need to get a shim and spacer kit until I tear the transmission down and see if the #9 thrust washer has ripped the tanks off or not. I plan to do the #9 thrust washer oiling mod to the case while I have it apart to aid in more oil flow to the rear of the case.

I also ordered the Haynes  Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul Manual (Techbook Series) online which should arrive on or around the same time the kit does, which should help immensely with specifications and clearances of things, as well as aid with areas I get stuck with during the rebuild.

I'm waiting for a new vacuum modulator to come in from O'Reilly's Auto Parts. They had one in the store but couldn't find it, then they ordered one from the local hub store but it was the wrong unit in the right box! Let's hope they get the correct one from the Salt Lake City hub!

Tomorrow I am off to the junk yard to get some tires for my sister's car until she can afford new ones from Les Schwab. While I am there I am pulling a transmission cooler from a late 80s light duty pickup to replace the radiator based cooler the station wagon has right now. I think that most of my metal flakes are coming from the oil cooler, and killing the transmission I have in the car now. I'll post pictures of the fitment of the replacement cooler I get. I can test length of it on one of the Mustang II's at the junk yard since the radiator of the 2.3 mustang II is the same size as the Pinto. Wish me luck!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Thanks Dwayne. I'm proud of the work accomplished, that's for sure. Brownie was cooperative through it all as well! :)

New problem came up today, however. No more reverse! The original transmission did this before it stopped giving me forward gears, which I have right now.

I'm ordering a super rebuild kit for the original transmission tomorrow so I can swap the transmissions out next month. I will be installing an external transmission cooler as well, instead of using the radiator.

I also think I may have figured out the issue with excess radio static while the car is running. I will be taking the alternator in to be tested some time this week, as well as replacing the voltage regulator. Hopefully that takes care of the radio.

Registration is due next month, that's the easy part!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dga57

You accomplished a lot in a short period of time... you should be very proud of yourself and Brownie!

Dwayne :smile:
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

dave1987

That was it for this year's major work on the car. The only thing left is the swap out the rear axle for the 28k mile one that came off my 78 Sedan. I plan to swap the water choke for an electric choke like my 78 Sedan has, as I have a spare and the water choke is so corroded I can't adjust the element position without breaking the bolt!

Here is the only interior shot I have of the car right now. It doesn't show much, but it shows some of the carpet and the new dash cap. Big changes.




Here is the view other driver's see the most. Complete with PCCA white vinyl sticker and a registered ride sticker! :D




That's all for now folks! This summer I will do a complete photo shoot of the car as I have done with my 78 Sedan in the years past, so stay tuned the next few months for some good shots of the car!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Time to post the last of the pictures...

I suppose we can start with the rear shock absorbers. While I had a good set on the car, they were not made for a station wagon. I was using the old shocks off my 78 sedan since they were still good, and I heard of another member using sedan shocks on a station wagon with some spacers between the shock and the mount due to the length differences.

I noticed the rear of the car was lower than the front with this setup, so I opted to purchase new monroe shocks made for a station wagon. The rear of the car now sits at the correct height and you can see the difference between sedan shocks and station wagon shocks below. Quite a difference in length if you ask me!




Next up, motor mounts. These would be a hell of a lot easier to change if, A) The transmission was removed from the car to allow more room to jack or lift the engine up, or B) I had an engine hoist to pull the engine upwards.

Trying to jack the motor up from beneath and then wedge the motor mounts into place was a huge challange. It took me nearly three hours to do the driver's side mount! I found that holding the bracket on the motor on with one bolt, then rotating it and fiddling around with the mount to get everything in was actually the easiest in my case. The passenger side went on in about 45 minutes.

I also replaced the transmission mount, all of them with new units. Far less noise when the car is running, and a lot less vibration!






I cleaned the carburetor really well and performed a rebuild with new parts. It cleaned up really well and runs a lot smoother now that it's been rebuilt!

I use a chemical called Chem-Dip to clean my carburetors. It is a mix of several different cleaners, some of which include acetone, mineral spirits and some heavy duty degreasers. You can just imagine how powerful this stuff is, choked full of acids.



Here is the carb after the rebuild and mounted back onto the intake:






One last thing fixed was the alternator bracket. When I first became the owner of this little station wagon, the alternator was "secured" with trampoline springs and twine, redneck was putting it mildly!

I managed to get the bracket to stay in place with one of the three bolts. Why only one? Because the previous owner managed to sheer off the other two bolts in the head by over tightening them, leaving only tiny threaded studs which were to far in the head of the motor to grab with any tool.

So I purchased a set of easy-out bits to perform the bolt stud extraction. I drilled a 7/64 hole in the center of what was left of the bolt in the head of the motor, then took the easy out and twisted it into the hole I drilled, as hard as I could. Then taking a 90 degree angle cordless drill, I put the easy-out in the drill chuck and reversed it. The stud came out without a problem! Here is what was left of it compared to the size of the bolt I replaced it with (nearly the same size as the original bolt):




The other bolt hole was to mangled to salvage, so I drilled it out slightly larger and re-tapped it. Since it was bigger, I had to use a different bolt. Not only larger in diameter, but also metric instead of english. Here is the difference:


1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

I will post more tomorrow, I hope this has proven helpful to some of you!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Next up, the rear defog glass. This was a donor glass from a station wagon I helped to part out on craigslist. I did not buy a new gasket for the glass, as I have a few good station wagon rear glass gaskets and I chose the best of the three. A great deal of care should be used when reusing a gasket, even if it seems plyable. It will tear much easier than a new gasket will, with little effort.

Install is the same as the windshield gasket. I have pictures of how the cord is inserted in the body channel of the gasket though. This is slightly harder to do than the windshield since the tailgate is nearly vertical.

Here is the glass with the gasket already on it, and the cord already inserted into the body channel of the gasket.




No overlap anywhere around the gasket except for at the bottom, just like the windshield. This is how far the cord should be inserted into the body gasket:




And here is what the overlap should look like in the body channel of the gasket along the bottom of the glass:




When the cord comes back around on each side of the gasket, it should be about this far from the end after the overlap on each side:






Lube up the window frame with glass cleaner, this helps the gasket slip around the pinch weld of the window frame, and to lessen the chance of tearing.





Don't forget to spray the gasket with glass cleaner as well before starting the install!

Once it was installed I sealed along the top and sides of the glass, since it is nearly vertical, to keep water out. Glass installed and finished!






Fred shipped me the wiring for the defog system, as well as all of the electrical stuff I would need, like the relay. Installed it all and routing the wiring was pretty easy, then it was just a matter of making contact with the rear grid and grounding it using the same strap that came with the glass.






1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Thanks Dwayne! A lot was done to the car this year, a lot of things that I normally wouldn't have had finished until a year or two down the road, but the five days I took off of work and 14-16 hours a day really sped that up!

Next up, windshield install!

While the glass installed wasn't new, it was undamaged aside from a small rock chip to the right of the rear view mirror (left from the outside). Other than that it is in great shape! A huge difference from the original windshield which was cracked six inches in from the passenger side, 14 inches up and then traveling another 18 inches across to the driver's side. The crack had been there so long that the lamination on the glass started to separate!

Removing the windshield was pretty easy. However the original gasket, or what was left of it, was so dry that it was literally as hard as plastic! I could not cut the gasket around the outside of the glass as I did for my 78 sedan, instead I had to chip off a corner of the gasket, then take a putty knife between the glass and the gasket on the outside and slowly chip/pry off chucks of the gasket until the glass was completely exposed and I could push it out from the inside.

The original windshield was trash, so I folded it in half and tossed it in the trash.

Here is Brownie without her "glasses" on. :P




Once the frame was cleaned up from dirt, left over PVC tape from the original windshield sealant and loose paint removed, the frame was primered and painted black to protect it from rust.

Next up was to apply the new gasket from Steel Rubber onto the replacement windshield like so:






Having a helper makes this so much easier. If you have ever put a gasket on a windshield yourself you know why (it tends to slip off one side of the windshield while you are wrapping it around the other side unless you have someone holding it in place). My friend Joel from work helped out with the glass install(s).

Two very important tools to keep around for gasket windshield installs. A 90 degree angle pick, and 550 cord which is basically parachute cord. I use a 50 foot length of it, plenty to go around and should last me a lifetime of windshield swaps! The average DIYer could get away with 25 feet easily. Here is a picture of the pick I use:




Once the windshield with the gasket attached was ready, the cord was stuffed into the body channel of the gasket and overlapped along the bottom. Then the windshield was lowered onto the car with the bottom channel first. With my assistant lightly pushing down on the top center and on the outside surface, one side of the cord was pulled out of the gasket from the inside, then the other side of the cord was pulled out, removing the overlap of cord and allowing the gasket to properly seat along the bottom of the window frame.

Once the bottom was finished, the sides were next, one at a time. With the assistant pushing in and down again, with just enough pressure to keep the glass from popping back out, I pulled the cord out of the channel from the inside, around the passenger side corner, using the pick tool to help pull the gasket lip around the frame and to the inside. Using the pick helps to keep from tearing the gasket with the cord or tearing the gasket against the pinch weld of the window frame while pulling the cord hard around the 90 degree corner.

The same was repeated on the driver's side and then the top. The top was the hardest, as the windshield is already 70% on the car with the bottom and left and right sides of the gasket already around the frame pinch weld, it makes it hard to push the windshield down enough to pull the cord out on the inside along the top. With enough determination and pulling strength, the cord came through and the gasket flapped over the pinch weld!

Once the gasket was around the windshield frame, it was just a matter of pulling the gasket against the body from the inside to ensure the entire glass sat tight.

After fitting the gasket and glass tightly, I took the urethane based all weather curing sealant and pumped it around the wind shield between the body and the gasket, then shoving it into place with a putty knife. Once the trim was installed after the sealant was applied, I lifted the gasket along the glass on the outside with the tip of the calking tube and shoved some sealant between the outside gasket and the glass to ensure any water will not travel between the two.

Here is the "new" glass installed!









Notes for any of you planning to do your windshield yourself...

If you have a nice glass shop like I do, you can purchase two tubes of this urethane based sealant for about $25 and 550 cord from any army/navy supply store.

The sealant should be put in an over at warm temperature before use as it is EXTREMELY thick and hard to pump. Even after warming it takes a fair amount of effort to dispense it. This isn't grout sealer we are dealing with!

The sealant is EXTREMELY MESSY! A lot of paper towels and lacquer thinner is what I recommend for cleaning up, and an orange citrus type wipe to clean the car's paint with, before it dries.

Get a box of 100 pairs of disposable gloves when working with this sealant. As stated it is messy and hard to get off your hands once it's dry. I doubled gloved and changed out pairs whenever they broke. I still managed to get some of it on my hands!

And most important, this will save you a lot of headaches, be sure to apply a generous amount of the sealant in the corners of the glass! The corners are the weak spots on these gaskets since they don't truly fit TIGHT. Water tends to pool up in the corners and then work it's way around the body and into your car. The curve of the firewall and dash allow the water to drip from various locations and tracking down a leak will drive you insane. SEAL THE CORNERS WELL!

Use glass cleaner to lubricate the window frame and the gasket. This helps immensely for slipping the gasket lip around to the inside of the pinch weld! It is a MUST, without it you will find yourself pulling extra hard to get the cord out of the gasket channel and possibly tearing your new gasket!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dga57

It's really looking good, Dave! :surprised:   Can't wait to see what comes next!

Dwayne :smile:
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

dave1987

I apologize for jumping around here!

Some point between stripping out the interior and installing the dash cap I did the roof insulation as well.

For the insulation I used some all weather blue carpet padding, the same stuff my local restoration shop uses. It holds up quite well over the years as long as there are no holes in the roof!

As for securing it to the roof, contact cement is ideal. Spray on adhesive is not strong enough and the insulation will separate from the roof on a hot day, leaving you right back where you started.

With a lot of measuring to ensure the sections of the carpet padding that I cut were going to fit properly, everything was glued into place with the contact cement. Not in the later pictures that the insulation should be tucked under the rear headliner tension strap. Even after gluing the insulation up, some trimming on the sides was necessary to ensure the headliner would look correct after reinstallation .














After the insulation was in and dried enough to stay up, I hung the headliner back up. Always a pain in the rear to do correctly without any wrinkles or folds. I wasn't striving for perfection this time around, since I will be dropping it down again in the future to put a brown one in like it was originally.

To hand the headliner along the sides of the car, it must be stapled to the wood strips secured to the metal strap running above the doors/windows. To make this job easier, my dad has an electric staple gun which I only needed to buy the most shallow staples I could find.





Once it was all stapled into position, I put the plastic covers on, over the staple strips and reinstalled the plastic cover at the rear. All finished!




That's it for now, will try to post more tonight, but most likely will happen later in the week. Off to work!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Now, while the dash cap is setting and with the floors repaired, it was time to move to the firewall under the fenders. And what a nightmare that was! The rust repair around the firewall under the fenders is what set me back on my restoration in five days. Here are the photos. First is the driver side rust...




This rust actually started on the side of the firewall and started to wrap it's way around to the front of it, so some of the front of the firewall had to be removed as well:






Once I was sure all of the rust was cut out and surrounding areas wire wheeled free of any traces of rust, I welded in some small patches, primered it all, applied seam sealer to and around the welds and any gaps or seams found. While I was at it, I removed all of the crumbling existing seam sealer around the pinch welds and overlapping body panels, cleaned the surfaces really well and applied some fresh sealer!












The passenger side received the same treatment:







I'm not sure what happened to the pictures of the passenger side completely repaired, but I'm sure you can imagine what it looks like, extremely similar to the driver's side.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Unfortunately I forgot to snap pictures of the repaired floor pans in the front, I think I just got carried away with the welding and what not and spaced out using the camera.

Not sure if you can see any of the passenger side repair in these pictures. The Driver side wasn't bad at all, only surface rust! I did hit it with a rust converter paint and some black paint after shooting these shots though.






Before moving to the outside of the car to pull the fenders off to inspect the firewall, I decided to install the dash cap. First photos are of the caps bad spots before. The last shot is of the weight on the cap to ensure the silicone based glue bonded in all spots to hold the cap down.








1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

After pulling the car into the garage to begin work, I was greeted to a workbench full of parts collected and ordered to complete a  large scale attack of restoration and repair on Brownie this year! While it was overwhelming at first, I slowly saw this pile of "stuff" get smaller each day.




Work started by stripping out the interior. I figured the windshield and rear defog glass would be easiest to install by cleaning everything out of the interior first. Not only the glass, but carpet was to be installed, a full inspection of the floor pans, the heater box cleaned out and motor replaced, and the headliner pulled down and new insulation installed. With everything out of the car, mobility became pleasurable for the interior of a sub compact!



With the seats removed, headliner down, rear carpet out, console out and the steering wheel removed, it was time to remove the carpet from the passenger area. I was greeted to a lot of moisture and sticky film from years of sitting in a field, and holes in the front floor pans. Nothing which couldn't be repaired with some spare sheet metal lying around though!












Once the carpet was removed the floor was cleaned with lacquer thinner to remove the sticky brown film and to see the true condition of the floors, which actually wasn't so bad aside from the front floor pans.










1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Here is a link to images I will be posting with captions. I don't have time now to do it, but I will get them all up through-out the week!

Enjoy!

http://imgboot.com/user/dave1987/
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Shift kit was installed last week, drove it some over the weekend (since it is my weekend driver). WOW WHAT A DIFFERENCE!

With the two check balls that I left out along with the hockey puck valve, shifts are quite firm and it has no real problem shifting into third now!

It shifts hard into second, and smoothly into third every time without hesitation. Since I know this is kind of a band-aid fix, it's time to start rebuilding the original transmission and to swap the same valve body into it, just a matter of time and money. I will be putting the better 6 3/4 axle from my 78 into her while I have the transmission out for swapping.

Pictures of Brownie's first 2011 repairs/restoration will be posted soon, I just found a good site to host photos from!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Haven't had time to upload photos, so pictures will be on hold.

The 78 has the 8" in it now, so Brownie will be getting the low mileage (28k-ish) 3.40 geared axle assembly some time before the Emmett car show in July.


The C4 transmission is still flaring from 2nd to 3rd when cold, it's better after warming up.

I ordered two valve body gaskets and two 2-3 shift valves, as well as a shift improver kit for the transmission, last night. I'm thinking the spring in the valve body for the 2-3 shift is just weak, or the valve sticking and needs polished. Either way, I am pulling the valve body out of Brownie's original transmission and putting it in the newly rebuilt in that is in the car now. I just need the shift kit to arrive so I can pull the valve body apart and clean it up really well and do an air check on all of the vacuum passages while it's out.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Well it doesn't seem to bad right now, I think I can deal with it until I can get my 78 finished for this year. Hopefully they haven't scrapped the 73 wagon at my regular junk yard and I can get out there to pull it's harness.

I'm working on finding a good online photo sharing site with decent storage space, bandwidth limits and organization to upload photos to, as I feel the site is getting overloaded with photos and video with as many projects going on right now.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

75bobcatv6

Honestly dont know. We just replaced the wiring with new wires from the Switch to the headlights.

popbumper

Quote from: dave1987 on March 02, 2011, 02:17:52 AM
So I went to my parents house today with the plan to clean out the cowl drains and seal the windshield around the gasket to stop all the water leaks,then change the valve cover gasket to stop the oil leak. It turned into a lot more!

I removed the fenders for better access to the cowl drains and inspection. I found what I was afraid of... Rust! Not surface rust either, it had eaten into the car just below the cowl metal on both the passenger and driver sides. On the driver side it had started to go around to the firewall. Without hesitation I pulled out the sheet metal sheers and cut it all out. About four hours of work later I has welded patch panels into place, ran completely out of gas for the wire feed welder and seem sealed. All of the seams on both sides.

So what I was hoping to be a 6-7 hour day turned into a 12 hour day of battling rust! I will have pictues up soon hopefully.

I was hoping to bring Brownie home tonight but the passenger side headlamp is out. I bought some replacements and will put them in tomorrow though and drive her home! :D

Now the turn signals arn,t working on the 78... :(

Ack! I know the "heartbreak" of cowl rust. When I first got my car, the leaking was so bad, the floor pans would fill with water every time it rained. Only removal of the windshield allowed me to really address the issue (as well as understand the rust in the floorboards), and now all is sealed, secured, repaired, repainted. Sorry for the trouble Dave - but it's a blessing you found it and took care of it!

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08