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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Restoring my 78 Sedan

Started by dave1987, May 25, 2007, 01:09:26 AM

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dave1987

Once you are finished you should have what looks like I have in the pictures below! That's it for the hard part! Now you can press in your new sleeves! Remember to measure outer edge shell distance frequently to avoid binding bushings.

Also, a VERY IMPORTANT POINT! Be sure to install the cross bar correctly before putting the bushings in! The bowed out side of the bar should be bowing outwards towards the back of the arm If it isn't, then you have it in backwards and need to turn it around. If this isn't installed correctly you will not be able to put the arms back onto the car until you flip it all around!

I could not find any specified torque ratings for the nuts that hold the cross bar on the arm and the bushings on it. I just set my air impact wrench to the highest setting and spun them on, then continued to let it tighten them up until it stopped moving. I suppose you could torque them down to 85 foot pounds like the lug nuts and not worry, but my air impact wrench does 95 foot pounds at max setting and they tightened up really well.


REMINDER: Don't forget to lubricate the bushings before installing them! The Energy Suspension kit comes with a small tub of white silicone grease that you will use for this purpose. Grease the outside of the bushing and the inside of the shell before installing the bushings. Also grease the inside of the bushings and the bushing sleeve before installing the sleeves. Anywhere that the bushing contacts the metal! This will make installation easier by preventing the bushing from pulling in on itself, as well as prevent any squeaking when the car is back on the road again.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

5 and 6) When you have finished cutting the shell, it should look like this. Not completely through the shell but almost, through in a few spots is okay, but you don't want to damage the surrounding material that will be holding the new bushing in place.

7) Next you you want to take a chisel and a hammer and smash the outside of the sleeve down on either side of the cut; collapsing the shell inwards. It shouldn't take a lot of work, since the cut you made earlier will give the metal somewhere to break/tear apart. You want to do this on distant ends of the shell(s).

8) After a few good hits on either side if the cut you made, the shell should looks like this. It should have compressed enough to pop right out with a light smack or two of the hammer. If it does not, you need to smash it down with the chisel some more until it does.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Pictures 1 and 2) Once the old rubber bushings and inner sleeves are removed, you should have what looks like this.

3) To remove the shells, it helps to have a bolted down bench vice, like I used, to hold the A arm in place while you saw out the bushing shells with a hack saw. It doesn't take long, 5-10 minutes to get through a decent portion of the metal. Not completely through, just enough to make it weak and tear. You will want a saw blade like the one I am using (wide) and made for cutting steel or it will dull/bend quickly. You will need to disconnect the blade from one end of the saw, pass the blade through the bushing and then reconnect it.

4) Be sure to cut the inside of the bushing shell on the side of the A-arm that would be facing downwards when installed on the car. You will understand why in just a bit.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Before removing the bushings, you need to measure the distance of the bushing shells by measuring from the outside of one shell to the outside of the other shell. If you don't press the new bushings into place at the same distance, you chance having your bushings binding with the cross bar, then you have to start all over again. If this is the case, good luck pressing the new shells out without damaging them! I didn't have that issue though, just take it slow and be patient. Press the shells in until they look like they have seated, then measure. If not seated enough, proceed to press each one in a little at a time, evenly with each side, remeasuring each time you press them in. It takes time, but accuracy is key to proper function and performance of the bushings and control arms.

Here is how I measured: I took a medium sized putty knife and held it against the outside of one of the bushing shells. Next I took a ruler with a square on it. With the square's flat side against the outside of the opposite bushing shell, I extend the ruler until the end of it makes contact with the putty knife, but without any pressure against it, this will give you the length of the distance between the bushing shells. Simple and effective! I wrote the measured length on the control arm itself in black sharpie so there was no chance of forgetting or loosing it through out the job.

The ruler I use is one my dad bought at Sears. The square/level tool slides along the ruler very smoothly and makes it easy to snug up against the putty knife without going to far.

If you haven't already removed the rubber bushing from the shell, you can still measure the distance of the shells by sticking the putty knife between the bushing and the outside shell lip and "wedging" it into place. You will need two putting knifes in this case, though, since the flat side of the square would not have a shell lip to rest against.

Pictures of measuring:
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

The shop press came in handy, I can't imagine installing the bushings without it! For precision while installing the A-arm bushings and for the ease of installation, a press is a must have when it comes to rebuilding your front end at home. And with the great place called Harbor Freight, a shop press is affordable to just about anyone with the space to put it! The press I have is a 12-ton standing shop press that my dad bought for me at Harbor Freight for $130.00. It uses a bottle jack as the hydraulic applicator and it does a great job doing so.

Having the press on a three or four foot stand or table would have been much more comfortable though, as I was kneeling or crouched most of the time during all of the work at the press.

For suspension bushings I decided to go with Energy Suspension parts. They are affordable and offer great performance from what I have heard. I bought them at AutoZone since their price was cheaper than O'Reilly's, and it's the same part. The only part I ordered that was not correct were the sway bar bushings. I have a 15/16" bar on my car, and the only bushings available were 11/16" bushings, a bigger difference than some might think. I didn't think to measure my bar before ordering them. :(

End links for the sway bar are Duralast brand. They get the job done as well as any other, and a lifetime warranty. Can't complain to much. They weren't cheap though, for what they are. $25.00 each.

My new steering rack is an MBM built unit that I purchased from JPL Street Rods in Pennsylvania. I had them include a set of rubber rack bushings with it as well, but I will have to see if I can locate some urethane bushings like the Energy ones are. So far no complaints with the rubber ones though!


Well here are the photos I took with some captions the way I have been doing them. Numbers listed according to how they are displayed below, with descriptions of each photo.


Lets start with the upper control arms, more commonly known as the A-arms.

Changing the bushings on these requires fabrication of a spacer between the inside distance of the bushing shell locations. The spacer keeps the arm from flexing and warping during installation of the bushing shells. Extreme pressure is required to install the shells since they are press fit. Quite similar to installing wheel bearings but without anything to stop the bushing shell from being pressed in to far. Below are photos of the spacer my dad and I made. we took a section of 1 1/2" galvanized pipe and cut it in half using his metal cut off saw. It took some daring tactics of my dad's to figure out how to make his small 5" saw cut the length of a nearly 8" pipe in half. It involved removing all of the safety devices (clamp and shield). Daring, yes, effective? YES! I don't recommend doing this though, I was hesitant to touch the saw without the safety stuff on it. I did wear a full face mask and heavy clothing on the arms and legs just in case though.

Once the pipe is cut, it can be trimmed slighting using a bench grinder until it fits snug in the underside of the control arm, it should slide over the inner bushing shells, then rotate around to the top of them until it gets tight.

The pictures below are with the bushings removed, but it makes no difference when installing the spacer. Yes, always have the spacer in place when pressing anything into or out of the A-arm. The A-arms are fragile when abused as they are just stamped steel.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Tuesday is the big day!

I will be changing out all the front suspension bushings, the steering rack from spindle to spindle, and the wheel bearings. I found out yesterday that my passenger side wheel bearing has been my culprit in the groaning sound (as I suspected) when I slow down, and the inner bearings grinds badly. I last changed these out three years ago, have put about 10k miles on them, but I have been driving the car a bit rough and I'm sure the worn suspension and steering hasn't helped any.

I will be rebuilding the carburetor again next month as well. I have either a sticky accelerator pump or power valve and it doesn't want to drop past 1050 RPM when the motor has been warmed up and I come to a stop with my foot on the accelerator. Only solution seems to be to turn the car off and then back on. At least the carb is easy! :)

Only thing left to do after all of this is flush out the cooling system and put a new thermostat in with a new water pump gasket as well and it will be ready for winter!

Can't wait to use the new 12-ton shop press! :D Yes there will be pictures!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Bushings arrived today, waiting for the steering rack and then work can commence!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Thanks for the advice TIGGER! I had a feeling that would be the answer. I did try using an impact wrench on it and they wouldn't budge. Looks like I need to douse the nuts in liquid wrench for the next few days and hope it helps.

I ordered a rack from JPL Street Rods in Aliquippa, Pennsylvania. They are a retail location there, but have an ebay store and are currently selling an MBM built rack with both inner and outer tie rods for $177.00 and free UPS ground shipping. Bushings were another $16.95 but necessary.

The rest of the front end bushings should arrive in the next week or so.

I'm really looking forward to driving my car like I never have before, without any shake, vibration or slop in the steering wheel, good solid alignment, and no odd knocking and popping sounds
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

TIGGER

Air is the easiest way to get the strut rods loose however I have done it by hand as well.  Just use a big cheater bar and get the car off the ground as high as possible.  Pass side may be a little tougher due to the exhaust.  Just make sure you loosen them before you remove the lower control arm or else they will spin and you will have to hold them with a large crecent or pipe wrench.  lubing them up before is a good idea, it should make it easier to bust free,
79 4cyl Wagon
73 Turbo HB
78 Cruising Wagon (sold 8/6/11)

dave1987

Ordered bushings for the control arms, strut rods, sway bar, and steering rack. Also ordered end links kits for the sway bar. Waiting to contract JPL Street Rods in Aliquippa, PA about a steering rack they are offering on ebay, which includes inner and outer tie rod ends from the looks of it. Need to call and be sure though.

This should take care of all my vibration and the left turn popping when I'm done! :D

One question. How should I go about removing the strut rod bolts? The last time I tried to I couldn't get them to break free. Should I spray them down really well with a penetrating lube each day until I do the work?
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

r4pinto

Shoot. I just saw this post. Had I known you were looking for a manual rack I woulda swapped you the manual rack in my car for your power rack. I replaced the tie rods on it a couple years back & they are still tight.
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

dave1987

My dad surpised me by coming into town and we spent a couple hours of the afternoon at the junk yard and found an aerostar aluminum drive shaft to, but it was to long. He left me the receipt so I could bring it back to exchange it. He bought the drive shaft for me as a thank you for taking care of the house while he lives in Oregon. Told him not to but he insisted.

I put new u-joints on the original drive shaft today, with my dad. The jerky pulsating accelleration and cruising under 2k RPM has gone away, as well as the intermittent groan while decelerating. It turns out the front one was pretty chewed up, so we swapped out both front and back with some lifetime warranty ones.


In other news, the manual steering rack and pinion is on it's last leg. I can't find inner AND outer tie rods ANYWHERE for it! There are inners for manual steering, but no outers, and vice versa for the power rack. So, for the time being, I will be swapping out my manual rack and pinon for the power rack I have in storage, just without the power steering pump. Yes, less turns to stop, but it's really not any harder to drive than the car is already. I don't have to parallel park anywhere here, either, so no need to worry! :)
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

The leak is coming from the output shaft seal. I have an extra one I will put in, but not until the drive shaft is balanced.

The fittings don't leak, I made sure of that when I had to replace one after rebuilding it a couple months ago. The return line fitting was loose but I replaced with another one just for safe measure.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

old 1973

Hi Dave hey i had a similar leak issue with my transmission on my 73 squire i could not find it. Till one day i was driving it every time i gave it gas tranny fluid would pour out of the fitting at top of tranny.when you were at idle no leak.I ended up pulling pass.wheel off and jacking car at wierd angle to get at fitting and had to customize wrench to fit,otherwise i would have to drop tranny and i really did not want to do that. From that fitting u could not tell where it was leaking from until i started really looking for the culprit. - hope this helps (Don)
My rides: 1972 Squire wagon (Kermit)#121
               1973 Squire wagon (Penny) #120
                1975 Mpg sedan (Pumpkin) # 122
                 1978 cruiser wagon (casper)

dave1987

Thanks Frank!

Since I cannot bring Brownie to the car show I'm going to make the 78 look great. Otherwise I would be splitting my time between the cars.

Brownie needs her drive-shaft balanced and the rear transmission leak figured out, as well as a lower alternator bracket. The carb needs rebuilt or something cause it's slow as heck and barely climbs a hill!

I'll take pictures of the 78 before and during the show. The doors look a lot better now with the metallic black paint vs. the old flat black paint I used on them before!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

FCANON

Looking Good Dave!

FrankBoss
www.pintoworks.com   www.tirestopinc.com
www.stophumpingmytown.com
www.FrankBoss.com

dave1987

Indeed, Dwayne!

Today I sprayed the top and bottoms of the doors, as well as the window frames. I did the ash tray and the ignition collar on the steering column as well.

After that I hit the center console with some of the SEM Color Coat to touch up some areas that had some wear through to the red vinyl.

Just have the door edge trim to replace, and the air cleaner duct. Then wipe down the engine and compartment and wash the car and she's ready for the big show! :D
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dga57

Quote from: dave1987 on July 01, 2011, 02:24:25 PM
Had a local paint shop mix up some black metallic low gloss paint for my dash, it's just about identical to the original paint. It was 18.35 for the paint and 6.95/ea. for the aerosol cans. Not to bad though. I also picked up a can of landau black SEM plastic/vinyl paint to touch up a few spots on the center console where the seat belts rub.

I also found the barrel nuts I have been looking for, for the emblems on the station wagon. They were $2.95 for a small package of 11 of them.


That all sounds like a successful shopping expedition!

Dwayne :smile:
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

dave1987

Had a local paint shop mix up some black metallic low gloss paint for my dash, it's just about identical to the original paint. It was 18.35 for the paint and 6.95/ea. for the aerosol cans. Not to bad though. I also picked up a can of landau black SEM plastic/vinyl paint to touch up a few spots on the center console where the seat belts rub.

I also found the barrel nuts I have been looking for, for the emblems on the station wagon. They were $2.95 for a small package of 11 of them.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Time to finish the last minute details to the car before the big show on July 18th! I have to restore the Mustang II lubar support seat track and install it, then touch up some painted surfaces inside the car, and wash and wax. It will be the star of my Pinto display at the show, since it was purchased from the last locally owned Ford dealer in Emmett, and probably the only Emmett Ford sold car left on the road here in Idaho! Should draw quite a crowd!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Thanks Matt! It wasn't much work at all, although I have swapped out the 6 3/4" axles a few times already before doing the 8" swap.

I would say the hardest part of it all was separating the carrier from the housing to drain out all of the old oil and clean up the insides. While I did find a small amount of rust on the ring gear, it was only on the outside of the teeth and not where the pinion and ring gear mate. I have no extra noise or vibration due to it either. Until I can get a traction lock spool/carrier, I can live with it.

Everything matched up just fine, I am even using the original drive-shaft for the car without any noticeble differences in clearance or spacing  between the drive-shaft and the axle/transmission. This truely was a bolt on swap! Everything went smoothly, even the drums which were rusted to hell were able to be resurfaced!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

r4pinto

Dave, that axle looks really nice... Looks better than the one I got off ebay about 5 years ago & have yet to install.  ;D
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

dave1987

Test pic of the 8" Axle before anything was done to it:



I think I have found a good photo sharing host! :D
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

8" axle is in and a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel! Smoother to drive, no more pulsating rear drum brakes! The drums on the 8" were still good, so I just had them resurfaced to remove the grooves and it's good to go!

The transmission work was another story...

If anyone remembers the gentleman named Marco who had a website and his own junkyard, was trying to sell Pinto parts to us. Well the replacement flywheel I got from him three months after paying for it will not work on my 78 as he stated it would! It is about an inch to thick to be usable, and I cannot mate the transmission to the motor due to it. I was able to get a shop to resurface my original flywheel and I'm using that now.

Also, the clutch I bought from Fred last February is not the correct one for my 78. The teeth for the input shaft on the clutch are wrong. It looks like a T5 clutch to me. The pressure plate is good though.

The release bearing I bought from schucks two months ago is not correct either, the inside diameter is to large!

So last year, getting all my parts together for this clutch work, was wasted. I cannot use the flywheel ($90), the clutch ($70), the pilot bearing or the release bearing ($40 combined). That's $200 down the drain. :(

While I now have an extra new pressure plate and pilot bearing, the flywheel has to be cut nearly in half for me to ever use it! :(

The car drives great now though, it's nice to have it all finished. The 6.75" rear axle assembly with the 3.40 gears that I was using is still low mileage (maybe 27k miles on it), and I plan to put that in Brownie.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Yesterday my brother in law and me took the snow tires off the car and put the regular tires on with the steel styled wheels. Happy to have my sporty right back! :)

We got the pumpkin separated, axle shafts out and everything stripped from the 8" as well and drained. Next Tuesday we are painting it and installing it. While we have the drive train torn down, we're dropping the transmission and rebuilding the clutch.

I fixed my wobbly and loose clutch pedal. I drove it like that for about five months and now that the pedal is firm again without any excess movement side to side, it's taking some getting used to, to drive the clutch.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

I forgot to check the tag while I was at my parents dropping off parts, but I will check it when I stop by to drop off the last of the parts for the cars.

I picked up the wheel cylinders and the carrier gasket tonight, and picked up some more brake fluid.

Everything is here for the 78's work, now just waiting for the last of the 73's parts to arrive and the vacation to start! :D
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

I picked up the axle today, what a heavy beast!

Everything is there, has good brake shoes on it still! I ordered a carrier gasket and new wheel cylinders which should arrive tomorrow.

Not sure what the gear ratio is yet, hopefully better than the 3.40 (which is way to low for the 4spd trans) than what I have right now. 3.00 would be ideal for the freeway.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

So I am swapping a pair of 78 bumpers plus $15.00 cash for an 8" rear axle, drum to drum, from a Mustang II, gear ratio around 3.00, not 100% certain yet.

Now my question is, can I still use my stock drive shaft or will I need to get a Mustang II shaft...Is a Mustang II axle a true swap, just remove the 6 3/4" and install the 8"?
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Wife bought me a little disco ball key chain to hang from the rear view. Best of all, it's nearly the same shade blue as my car is! :D

Also attached are a couple pictures of the car covered in snow. Just an idea of how much snow we had last month. Note that this is all after ONE NIGHT of snowing!  :surprised: :surprised:

After driving around, one morning to pay bills, the car was COVERED in ice. Huge chunks of ice hanging off the back bumper weighting about 7 pounds each, icicles hanging off the wheel wells, the filler neck encased in ice, the insides of the wheel wells had about an inch of ice all the way around! I didn't get any pictures that are clear enough to see all of the ice, but it was pretty brutal out that morning!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

The weather is finally warm enough to clean my back window without the glass cleaner freezing to the window!

I initially ordered a PCCA white vinyl sticker for Brownie, but it never showed up. Frank was more than gracious to send me the sticker again, while including a second one for the inconvenience!

So, I now have a sticker on the back window! :D It looks quite nice actually, I love the font!

1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!