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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

"New" Pinto No Spark

Started by rob289c, June 07, 2020, 07:49:48 PM

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rob289c

I didn't see any external leaks so it is a good possibility that the vacuum modulator diaphragm is bad.  I'll check that when I get under to either tighten the exh manifold or take apart for a new gasket.  The new distributor came in yesterday but I'm not messing with it until the weekend.  70 hour work weeks and 95 degree temps make me stay out of the garage. The weekend will be cooler rainy.  Good shop weather.
rob289c

pinto_one

Good news and bet your happy it runs , now you just have to chase out the grimlims out the car and look and see any future problems that may be hiding , you put in 2 qts of trans flude so did you see any leaks , it had to go somewhere , so check the vac line to the transmission for oil , if there is the modulator has a hole in it and will zoop the fluld out the trans , soon you will be driving it , have a good one
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

rob289c

Today I removed the supply and return lines from the fuel pump, extended the lines and dropped them into a 1-gallon gas can under the car and used that as a fuel cell.  It's on 4 jackstands so there is plenty of room under the car.  I got it to start and stay running.  I adjusted the idle up a little and played with the timing a bit and it will sit and idle without having to feather the throttle.  No knocking or other troubling noises.  When I put it in Drive and Reverse, nothing.  After adding 2 qts of Type F, it goes in both forward and reverse.  There is a terrible exhaust leak where the upper converter bolts to the exh manifold so it is loud and lots of fumes while under hood.  I'll have to get that tightened up to eliminate or minimize the leak.  I tried from above with 9/16, 5/8, 14 an 15  box ends, but none seemed to be the right size.  Can someone tell me what size it should be?  I'll try again another day from underneath with ratchet, socket, extension.

I made good progress this weekend; thanks again for all help provided.
rob289c

rob289c

It runs!  :) Not well, or for any length of time but it fires and has some throttle response but I have no fuel system hooked up.  The gas tank is barely hanging by one strap and I don't want to put any gas in it.  Probably full of crud.  I don't know if the fuel pump is any good.  I may try to rig a one gallon gas can as a makeshift tank to see if I can get it to stay running for any length of time.  There are vacuum lines unplugged/uncapped so now that I know it will fire I'll see what I can do to make it run longer/better.

The timing marks on the crank pulley were rusted over and invisible.  I wire-wheeled all the way around until I could barely make them out.  I checked the orientation of crank and cam pulleys and they were right on but the distributor was off.  I pulled it out and re-positioned it and it fired up!  Still waiting for the new distributor to arrive.  Hopefully on Monday.

Thanks to all that offered advice and replies.  I will continue to update and ask questions as I move forward with my project. 
rob289c

65ShelbyClone

For whatever reason all shippers have been really screwy for the last couple weeks. I had something "guaranteed" to be here today and it's not. Earlier in the week I had five orders come in on the same day by different carriers that were early, late and on-time. Another was lost last week by Amazon and never arrived.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

rob289c

New distributor didn't show up today.  Local PO says the package still sits in the Rochester NY PO.  I won't see it till Monday.  I'm going to prep for the swap and I may pop the old one in for the heck of it and give it another whirl. 
rob289c

rob289c

In a few minutes I will be out removing the old distributor and getting timing marks lined up to be ready to drop in the new distributor as soon as the mailman arrives.  Tracking shows it will be delivered today.  I will have a followup report later in the day.  Hopefully that it is running!
rob289c

71pintoracer

It's been a while since l timed a 2.3 but l remember that they won't run at TDC. Seems like you have to move the distributor quite a bit to get it to run. Like set it so the vacuum advance is as far forward as possible, drop it in at TDC then move it around towards the rear. That could be why it's backfiring through the carb, the timing is that slow.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

rob289c

Ah...got it.  I'm chomping at the bit to get this thing going!
rob289c

pinto_one

you do not have to remove the timing cover to check the marks , one the pointer for the crank is on the timing cover there is another mark on the lower sproket but hard to see if you do not know what to look for , just setit on TDC and there is a rubber plug on the timing cover near the thrmostsat housing , remove the plug and look inside you will see a pointer and also the mark that should be there , if not you may have to turn the engine one turn and check again , hope this helps
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

rob289c

I just checked the tracking on my distributor...it has arrived in the Rochester NY USPS Distribution Center at 5:00 last evening and I live in a Rochester suburb.  I'm hoping it arrives in today's mail so I can get on it first thing tomorrow AM, but I may not see it until tomorrow afternoon with Friday's mail delivery.  Regardless, I will get the engine set to #1 TDC, get the timing cover off to check alignment of timing marks and get ready to drop the new dizzy in and hear it run.  I will keep everyone posted...
rob289c

65ShelbyClone

Quote from: rob289c on June 28, 2020, 05:12:36 AM
Question:  What is the correct orientation for the vacuum advance...fron t or rear of engine?
Doesn't matter; put it wherever there is the most space to rotate it without hitting things.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

pinto_one

That would be the first thing I would check and replace in the begining , brought a few over the years and thats all it was , broken belt or just striped at the crank , even when I had a new pinto the belt would let go around 40 to 50 K , later as I did more highway driving it would max to 60 to 70K , but now that you brought the car from someone that got it in a not running condition could be so simple , a quick look and see can rule a yes or no , set the crank on TDC , remove the top rubber plug at the top and look at the pointer , should see it line up with a mark (dot ) on sprocket , let us all know ,
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

rob289c

Good advice.  If getting to TDC and installing the new distributor doesn't get it to fire, I will certainly get the timing cover off to check valve timing.  I keep checking the tracking on distributor shipment but no updates.  It says it should arrive by Thursday so I'll have to be patient.  No work on Friday due to the holiday other than emergency calls so I'll be out in the garage bright and early to get it ready to roar!  As for the previous owner, I have tried to contact the last owner that had it registered in 2007 with no success.  I think that's where the no start/no run condition started and he dumped it.  The person I bought it from never ran it.  He had a lot of junk or he might call them projects, and never quite figured out why it wouldn't start but made a mess of the wiring. The good news is he bought a NOS carb for it.  Now that I have spark it I'm in the home stretch.  I'll get to hear if it knocks, smokes, and if the tranny works. 
rob289c

enzo

The previous owner was unable to trouble shoot the no start problem with all the work you've described. Take a look
at the camshaft to make sure it is timed correctly, the belt may have slipped some cogs.

rob289c

New distributor has shipped and scheduled to arrive on Thursday, July 2.  Good news for me...I should be able to hear this thing run on Friday!
rob289c

rob289c

Thanks for the advice...all is appreciated.  I think what I am dealing with is a no start condition that the previous owner tried to troubleshoot with no luck.  I found wire insulation stripped away on a variety of wires.  I followed the factory Duraspark troubleshooting guide and figured out the no spark condition.  I have a feeling the distributor had been removed by the previous owner and not reinstalled correctly.  I marked the rotor position on the distributor and also to the power steering pump bracket before removing.  I put it in exactly the way it was before removing.  The oil pump drive was lined up and it fell into place without having to bump the engine.  With no spark before I wasn't getting the backfire through the carb.  When the new distributor gets here I'll start from scratch with #1 at TDC on the compression stroke and I am certain it will fire and run.  I hope it isn't delayed with the July 4th holiday...no mail on Friday.  I don't want to mess with the old distributor.  The harness is a mess, the cap hold down screws were broken off and I have to use rubber bands and zip ties to hold it in place the best I can.  Once I hear it run I can pull the motor and rebuild if necessary, or degrease and detail if it runs without knocking. 
rob289c

Wittsend

Not sure what the factory intended position is but the distributor can be removed, the rotor rotated a reasonable amount to give more adjustment and then the housing is re-inserted. The housing is rotated (in essence "chasing") to realign itself to the rotor and move the vacuum advance away from whatever it might have been hitting. The timing should then be re-set.

A number of precautions:

Take pictures of the original orientation and mark the position of the rotor on the distributor housing with a Sharpie BEFORE you move anything. Should all things fail you can then get back to "square one."

DO NOT rotate the engine with the distributor out. It is not essential but it is advisable to set the #1 cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke as a reference point. But, again do this BEFORE you ever remove the distributor.

There is a hex shaft that drives the oil pump that inserts into the bottom of the distributor. It can be a hassle to get the hex lined up and the distributor gear to mesh with the auxiliary shaft gear.

So, with all that if you can get proper timing even if things are close to hitting it may well be better to just leave it alone.

rob289c

Question:  What is the correct orientation for the vacuum advance...front or rear of engine?  Mine was (is) toward the rear.  That's what gets hung up on the fuel line, dipstick tube, and every other piece of vacuum line that is in the vicinity when removing and installing.
rob289c

rob289c

I just ordered a distributor.  For what I would have spent on a pickup coil and reluctor, I got a whole distributor and since the core is only $15, I will keep my old one for spare parts.  I should have it by next weekend so in the meantime I will get #1 at TDC and be ready to swap distributors when the order arrives. 
rob289c

rob289c

Rotating the distributor while attempting to start didn't result in a start or attempt to start.  It still backfires through the carb.  Back to the drawing board...remove the alternator, pull the distributor, set # 1 to TDC, reinstall distributor, and try again.  At least I have spark!   :)
rob289c

rob289c

***Update***Today I used the Mapp torch on the upper alternator bolt and was able to get the alternator removed and out of the way.  It still took some finagling to get the distributor out.  Once out and a spray down with brake clean, I found my problem.  About 1 1/2" from where the connector used to be, the orange wire was compromised.  It wasn't visible when the distributor was still installed.  I had to cut it shorter and temporarily crimped a male blade terminal on.  Then I read 628 ohms between orange and purple, which is in the required 400-1000 ohms range.  The two distributor cap hold down screws had been broken off by a previous owner.  I sprayed and heated in an attempt to grab what was left without success.  I drilled through them but not without ruining the threads.  I reinstalled the distributor, which was a bigger PITA than removing it, hooked up the orange, purple, and black/green wires individually, used a zip tie and a machine screw/nut to hole the cap on and now I have spark!  I hooked up a piece of fuel hose to the fuel filter, kept the end high and squeezed gas to the carb.  I couple of squirts of starting fluid made the engine backfire through the carb but did not start.  I didn't have a helper to turn the key while I rotated the distributor but will try again when I have a helper.  I may have to go through the process again, remove the distributor, get #1 to TDC on the compression stroke, then reinstall the distributor.  It seems like it's not in the right position, although it is right where it was before I removed it.  Anyway, I now have spark but still no start.  I'm sure I can get it to run but may have to play with timing a bit.  Thank you for all replies and advice.  I will keep everyone posted on progress. 
rob289c

rob289c

Thank you for the info!  I will call and see what he has. 
rob289c

JoeBob

If you still want a junkyard part call this number 7209384055 this is a junkyard near Denver he has 20 pintos. Will pull and ship.
77 yellow Bobcat hatchback
Deuteronomy 7:9

rob289c

From memory I think I should read 400-700 ohms between orange and purple and I read nothing.  The connector coming out of the alternator crumbled in my hand when I removed it so the new pickup coil is needed, if for no other reason, I will get the new connector.  I will be buying the Painless Wiring Duraspark kit that is really made to convert points to Duraspark, but I will use it to replace all the bad wiring and connectors that fell apart.  I can use pretty much all of it except I won't need the Chrysler style ballast resister that comes in the kit.  The end result will be a factory looking ignition wiring harness.  Getting everything out of the way to get at the distributor will be my biggest chore.  Once I have access it should be smooth sailing unless it wants to be stubborn after sitting in its spot for the last 40 years!  I haven't heard a Pinto run since my last one in 1989!
rob289c

pinto_one

Thats kind of odd on the open pickup going bad , but easy to remove , first you bump the engine until the rotor button points to the block , take a photo of the positon of the distribtor , Makes is easyer to set the timeing later , or just line up number 1 on comprssion stroke and and line up the rotor on the #1 on the cap , it take a 17mm socket on a 12 inch 3/8 extenion and remove bolt , should slide out easy , its short and will clear everything , soon you will have it running in no time
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

rob289c

Update:  I made little to no progress last weekend.  This weekend I made some.  I rewired the 4-pin connector into a home made harness down to the distributor.  I think my problem is a bad pickup coil in the distributor.  I tried to get an ohms reading between the orange and purple wires and I get nothing.  The connections are good but I get no reading.  I am going to order a pickup coil and reluctor and see if that gets me spark.  Getting the distributor out is going to be a chore.  The alternator is on top, the power steering pump is below the alternator, and there is a bunch of wiring and vacuum lines in the vicinity.  The top alternator bolt is pretty much frozen in the housing but with heat and penetrating oil, I'll persuade it out.  Once out of the way I'll tackle the power steering pump.  I'm sure the distributor won't just pull out but I'll work at it.  Distributor cap bolts are broken off so I'll have to try to drill them out.  And I though it would be a piece of cake getting this thing running!
rob289c

rob289c

I hope I'm on the right track.  Today I went to Napa and ordered two 4-pin "modern style" weather proof connectors to eliminate the big white connector in the pic.  There is corrosion and lots of missing insulation so cleaning that up will help.  I found the 3-wire connector that includes the thick wire from the alternator is broken. I'll have to do something about that too.  I don't know if that is contributing to my no spark condition but I'm sure it isn't helping!  One more work day and I can get back on it.  I hope to hear this thing run by Saturday afternoon.  If it will stay running I can see if the tranny will spin the wheels.  It's on jackstands...no brakes.
rob289c

71pintoracer

Sounds like you're on the right track! Sometimes you have to undo 40 years of wiring repairs and start over lol
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

rob289c

I found that there are vendors that sell a points to Duraspark conversion kit.  It looks fairly complete and wiring is color-coded rather than all black like the pug assy I received yesterday.  I think I will use what I have for now and some piece-meal wiring repair to get it running, then while the engine is out of the car and on the engine stand I will have more room to re-wire everything correctly.  The kit price ranges between $85 - $115 depending on the vendor. might be worth it when I get to that point.  In the meantime I will continue trying to track down my junkyard man to see what he has for harnesses. 
rob289c