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LOTS OF 1971-1973 PARTS FOR SALE
Date: 02/03/2018 11:28 am
Mustang ll/Pinto/Bobcat Aluminum Wheel Rim

Date: 07/20/2018 03:00 pm
Pinto Wheel Well Trim
Date: 03/29/2017 11:35 am
Need lower control arms for 1973 pinto
Date: 02/27/2017 10:10 pm
Free ford C3 transmission in 95695..
Date: 06/07/2021 08:14 pm
Wagon rear quarters
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Intake, Head, and valve cover gasket sets

Date: 12/10/2017 01:14 pm
Intake manifolds

Date: 03/06/2021 03:04 pm
Wanted: Oil Breather F0ZZ6A485A "87-8 from 2.3L Turbo
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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

1979 Turbo Pinchero project

Started by CanadianBatman, July 25, 2014, 11:47:20 AM

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Reeves1


CanadianBatman

So many pictures!

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1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

CanadianBatman

More pictures!

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

CanadianBatman

Pictures!

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

CanadianBatman

Monthly updates. Yeah that can be a thing. For once I've gotten  a lot done on the car. After the motor fitting went well, I pulled it back out. Did a quick spray job on the bay and bolted the clutch and fresh machined flywheel on. Slid the Trans in and dropped it in lock stock and barrel. Was a little tight but it worked. I also got the interior stripped,pulled the old diff, cleaned and installed the new diff, rebuilt the front hubs, discovered my ball joints need to be done, pulled the heater box out to clear the turbo and installed the exhaust manifold...

Yeah it was a busy month.
Also the intake is at a shop right now getting turned and gutted. It's going to cost a lot but it's worth it In the end.

I've also found a parts wagon that I'm going to be stripping for anything else I'll need. Sadly it is a cruising wagon but it's a 4 cyl stick that's been t-boned and the frame is -gone- underneath. So I'm not too hard off on it. I'm pulling everything I need,as well as everything you all may need and then scrapping a Barren shell.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

CanadianBatman

1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

CanadianBatman

76 hotrod yeah that's the plan. Just a 90 degree turn.

Well I got the diff out. Quite a bit of hammering involved. That brake drum was oooooollllldddd. Happened to notice the new springs I have won't fit. They're about 6 inches too short, oh well, the wagon springs are still good. I've heard they're better. An issue I have is the rubber "bushing" we'll call it, is obliterated. It's crumbling just by existing. And I highly assume there's no replacements or aftermarket deals generally available, so I was thinking, instead of just bolting the plates on without the rubbers, could I use layers of semi-truck airbag suspension rubber as a bushing? I have a source that I can get almost as much of the stuff as I want for free, it's really sturdy stuff. We actually used it as a rub guard on airlines and such.

Above and beyond that, I ripped my front right hub apart to check into the bearing noise I could hear while driving it, and after seeing the sad shape of the rotors, I broke down and bought new hubs and pads for the front end. I already had the bearings, being suspicious of their failings before, so that will give me something to do while I save up to turn the intake manifold and buy a few more bits and pieces.

Pictures to follow tonight.
1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

65ShelbyClone

Quote from: 76hotrodpinto on February 24, 2016, 09:55:12 PM
Not sure if the 79 has the same clearance issue, on the passenger fender, as the 76, but if so... Are you going to cut and patch the fender? Or use another exhaust manifold, that won't require fender modification?

Are you talking about where the turbo is?

I know the IHI turbos' wastegate actuator will cause clearance problems, but I think we're all using T3s in this thread and they have the actuator closer to the engine. I modified the bay before even test-fitting my engine, but the T3s don't look to me like they would be guaranteed hit the inner fender. Close, most definitely.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

76hotrodpinto

I also know of some choice cuss words, that if applied in the right cadence and at the appropriate volume, are very helpful.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

oldkayaker

Another method of removing a brake drum stuck to axle hub is to heat up the face of the drum with a torch while avoiding heating the axle hub.  When it releases, I usually hear a pleasant little ping/clink.  I used a oxy-acetylene torch but a propane torch may work also.
Jerry J - Jupiter, Florida

76hotrodpinto

If you can work with just a 90 deg. turn on the intake, I posted pics on my build thread of my "adaptation". Pretty easy to do. I have the old pinto alt. bracket though.

As for the stuck brake drum, I've had some luck with removing the brake fluid line, and using whatever fitting is needed to hook to a vacuum pump back up to the wheel cylinder. Pump it out, and tap it at the same time. Not a sure thing, but worth a shot.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

CanadianBatman

@76 I don't think there are any issues, at least I didn't see any when I dangled the manifold turbo combo in the bay beyond the usual heater motor issues. It seems that no matter how many people do an engine swap in how many different combinations, the one that you end up with always has some oddball issue that is specific to your build. They don't call us hot rodders for nothing.

Speaking of which I spent all of last night working on the car. The 6.75" rear is loose in the vehicle now, and I think I'm prepped to put the new one in. Some comparison issues I have found is the lower shock mounts are different from mustang to pinto. The pintos have the integral threaded rod and the mustangs use a bolt-nut combo through a bushing. I have pictures to compare. The only thing I'm not sure of is if the upper mounts are identical or not. I can't remember from pulling the 8" from the mustang. I'm thinking the change up with the lowers is just for the heavier rear end, but like I say I'm not sure.

I also seem to have stumbled on a rather resistant Drum brake. It seems to not want to release itself from the axle. And I need it to since its keeping me from disconnecting the e-brake cable. That e-brake cable is wrapped around the springs, which I have decided to keep in place. The donor springs from the mustang are 8" too short to be bolt ins. The v6 wagon springs should hold up.

The lower spring mounts and outside dimensions of the old and new axle shafts are identical so the u-bolts I took out can be used as templates. Now just to find a metal shop in town that can turn my intake manifold...

I'll post pictures when I can.
1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

76hotrodpinto

Not sure if the 79 has the same clearance issue, on the passenger fender, as the 76, but if so... Are you going to cut and patch the fender? Or use another exhaust manifold, that won't require fender modification?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

CanadianBatman

HEY progress... bit by bit. The old motor is far out, the new one in. Painted up the pan and the mounts. It'll probably come back out though. theres no transmission on it and I want to throw a metal head gasket into it too. But hey its in...






Even managed to bolt the v6 power steering pump into the t-bird mount brackets. Hoping it'll work, but hey that's what hot-rodding is all about. Try and try again. I'm looking into the wiring harness to see what needs to be omitted for my local lax emissions laws and such. Also have to splice in the alternator and connect power through the body harness. I'm going to forgo a key and build in a complex starting sequence with hidden switches. One of those row of un-labeled switches on the dash connected to lights that I roll through turning to the passenger with a "buckle up" look on my face. haha
1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

65ShelbyClone

I think 9.25" is just the max size for a stock flywheel. A stock replacement clutch kit should fit on a stock flywheel.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

CanadianBatman

Hey got a lead on some engine mounts a couple hours north of here, with a possible line on shipping. He has a complete rotating 2.3 engine. Is there anything else I should grab? I already have the pan and pick up tube. But I can't think of anything else I would need.

Well, that was a couple days ago. I'm getting the mounts as soon as everything opens up again after Christmas here to ship them. And I was also looking at buying a clutch online, considering in store prices are atrocious around here, even on boxing day. The local Mopac, best they can do is like 12% off. almost shouldn't have even asked. I'm seeing a couple of clutches on ebay that would work for me but I had a question about the sizing. There are two I was looking at and they have almost identical specs except for the clutch outside diameter. One is 9 inches and the other is 9 1/4 inches. Now my original clutch is measured to 9 inches but would it really matter to the point of if I buy an aftermarket flywheel as well. Would it have to be upsized to match the 9 or the 9 1/4? Or does it matter?
1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

65ShelbyClone

Quote from: CanadianBatman on December 19, 2015, 06:22:59 PMIve been told that the pinto 4 cylinder mounts may bolt in, they may need to be welded in, that they need to be some sort of witchcraft. I don't know.

Welding is only needed for '71-73 models because they never had the 2.3 as an option. You already have the frame mounts in your car because they are the same for '74-80 2.3 and 2.8 Pintos. The rubber engine mounts are the same too.

The v6 vs. 2.3 block brackets I'm not sure about.

QuoteWhat I do know is that the t-bird mounts may not work at all.

They'll work if you fabricate something completely custom for the frame mounts. I almost went that direction before a member here offered to trade a set of 2.3 mounts for my 2.0 parts. Fortunately I had used a spot weld cutter to remove the frame brackets intact and straight instead of a hammer and chisel like so many horror stories I hear about.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

CanadianBatman

Also! I forgot as well, when I was still driving the car, I could never leave it locked, the modifications to the door handles, installing a modernised exterior handle deleted the key tumblers, and I would have had no way to get back into my own car. I played around with the idea of installing the stereotypical "secret button" like the one car that was on the "list" from Gone in 60 Seconds. Just walk up, slide my hand in somewhere, and click goes the lock. As I'm disconnecting the old motor, I was acutely aware that the "original" v6 had been replaced, or something, along with the addition of a selection of gauges, so there where a few random wires strewn about the engine bay. He had also installed a fuel pressure gauge, probably to monitor the system with a fresh motor, that included about 4 feet of fuel line extra between the bottom corner of the block and the carb. This caused the car to vapour lock on more than one warm occasion during the summer.

There I go rambling again. Door locks yes. The front grille had some damage that I noticed when I bought the car, just missing a small section of the slats, but I had never taken the chance to inspect it beyond this. Turns out someone before me had the exact same idea. There is a button hidden in behind the grille mounted with the hood release, wired to you guessed it, a pirated door lock release hidden behind the door panel, riveted to the door structure. The wiring is broken at several places, and not supplied with power from anywhere I could find. But none the less I didn't care what was going on in the world, I was as happy as the day I signed the bill of sale to buy the car!

I'm going to go to the local registry office and pay for what's called a VIR search. Pretty much $25 and it tells me where the vin code was registered, what year, and if I'm unbelievably lucky the mileage when it was registered. The search can go back 25 years, if the registries have the records updated to include their previous paper records. Sometimes they do, most times, they stay in their boxes, gathering dust. But one can only hope...
1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

CanadianBatman

Hey guys. I know April to December, it has been a while, but I figured you might like to know what is going on with the car. The old v6 auto combo is out. Pulled it out last week and the new 4 cyl is ready to go in, once I do some cleaning and prep work on the engine bay. I'm still trying to come up with a solution on the engine mount front. I keep running searches and talking to anyone I can but I'm still not solidly sold on how this motor is going in. I have the '79 v6 bolt on mount holes from the stock motor, along with the mounts and such from the engine, along with the engine mounts complete to the frame rail from the thunderbird donor car (1985). Ive been told that the pinto 4 cylinder mounts may bolt in, they may need to be welded in, that they need to be some sort of witchcraft. I don't know. What I do know is that the t-bird mounts may not work at all. I've been too busy to attempt to bolt the new motor in, and now that I think of it, I might put out a call on the local kijiji to see if anyone in the area has a junk block I could buy for fitment purposes. Although for all I know I'm the first one to attempt this exact swap.

The new motor is ready. Bought a oil pan-pickup tube combo from a gentleman in Airdrie just north of Calgary. Who bought the 4 engines, trailer full of parts and remaining car out of 6 that he bought from, as luck would have it, the same estate my car came from. Haha small world.

Here's a couple pictures of the progress from the last few months. Sorry it's been taking so long, the price of oil has finally hit my profession and between layoffs, and moving jobs, and the horror of finding a new job its been hard to get to the project. I'm sure I'm not the only one taking a hit up here.







Speaking of which, anyone in the general area want a running cologne v6/auto combo... the transmission does have problems, but I've heard they have the nice governor that runs really high rpm...
1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

dick1172762

If your talking about a 2.3L, the answer is yes they are the same.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

CanadianBatman

Hey, just rounding up some parts and I'm wondering if the oil pan from a mustang 2 would fit, or does it have to be a pinto pan?
1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

Wittsend

Honestly, I'd go back for ANYTHING you can afford. I'm in So. Cal. where there are a multitude of cars.  I often frequent the two self serve yards near me. I go once a month for the 50% off sale so likely nothing slips by. That said, I have found only ONE Turbo Coupe in the past 2 years. And, if that is what the greater Los Angeles area is offering I can imagine there are less elsewhere. The later exhaust manifold (E6 I believe) are desirable over the earlier version.  The IHI turbo may or may not be to your liking. They are 87-88 only also.

I got my Pinto in late '07. I started the Turbo Coupe conversion in early '08.  At that time I could find about 5 T/C's every time I went to the yards.  Then by mid 08 they quickly trickled down to one or two per visit. Then maybe one every other visit. Then a few a year and now one in the past two years.  We need to remember that even the newest T/C ('88) is 27 years old! And that makes the '83's 32 years old.  They aren't going to be around forever.

65ShelbyClone

Go back and get the cylinder head and everything attached to it. If I was local, I would be doing it myself and not telling you to.  ;)

The intake and valve cover will fit better under a flat Pinto hood.

And yes, it was a good idea getting the VAM, brown-top injectors, and LA3 together. That is the complete package for an L-series ECU swap.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

CanadianBatman

Good news everyone! Well, kinda, the project is still going. I got all of the valve seals done, once I figured out how to get them off. The head is back on the motor, and I'm just looking into some fancy new head bolts to hold it all together.

My roommate managed to spy a wayward '88 turbo coupe in death row in front of the local pickNsquish and a couple days of watching the online inventory like a hawk paid off. The car was dumped in the yard yesterday, and I jumped on It this morning, postponing my appearance at work by a couple hours to swoop in and collect a few choice prizes. All in all I swiped the LA3 computer (manual car), all brown top injectors, the VAM( I couldn't remember if I needed that upgrade or not, didn't mind spending $15 just to make sure) and took the intercooler too just for the hell of it. I also nabbed the fuel pressure regulator, just in case. Those are always in my experience the one part to fail at the worst time, and they are astronomically expensive.

SO higher boost numbers here we come!

Ps: also anything else I should go back for? Everyone's turbo lists seem to have the same base line, but I can never remember after reading so many, exactly which combinations are best for these motors. I think I have everything, but my memory is horrible, and I want to make sure.

Thanks!
1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

65ShelbyClone

So rip them to shreds. They're not expensive and definitely not worth trying to reuse. If they are brittle, they need to be replaced anyway. I think I used pliers the last time...just don't damage the top of the guide.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

CanadianBatman

So I'm making some progress on the motor, its pretty much cleaned off now. Figured out a way to pull the valves out with some custom designed tools. Came up to a bit of trouble trying to remove the seals from the head. I have the valves, springs, keepers, and follower assys all removed, just the seals and head remain together. But I can't figure out a custom tool, or find a ford tool available to pull them without ripping them to shreds. Any suggestions?
1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

65ShelbyClone

Straight-shank studs are also prone to crushing head gaskets and compressing aluminum heads on these engines. The hardened washers sink right into the aluminum. Some of the big power players have reported that undercut studs and/or a lower final torque setting helps a lot.

Quote from: CanadianBatman on December 29, 2014, 12:49:50 AM
I'm going to leave the crank and piston assy's in it. I just want to clean up the block so that I'm not dropping a web infested mess into my nice project car.

I could swear 25% of the time it took me to do my swap was spent cleaning(and then fixing the leaks). Everything was caked with hard desert grease.

QuoteThe only problem I had stripping the block was pulling the turbo off of the exhaust manifold. When I went after the first stud, something didn't feel right pulling the wrench, so I look and its turning the one end of the stud out of the manifold, but not the other. I left it because I didn't want to break the bolt off. I think that I'm going to have to take the whole ting to work and torch the nuts off so I don't damage anything.

If the studs are backing out with the nut stuck on, then that's not exactly unusual. It's not particularly worrisome to me, anyway.

QuoteSo then the questions begin:
Its probably suggestible to replace the valve seals while the head is off right?

It would expect it to be easier. I did it on an SVO without pulling the head (nor the cam..it won't come out in a Fox3 without lifting the engine) It took a few hours not counting having to build the lever-type spring compressor and spark plug compressed air fitting.

It was also the only job I can recall doing without giving a customary blood offering to the Gods of Speed. They were none too impressed and I got stranded far from home immediately after with my alternator set ablaze.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Pinturbo75

6 point headbolts are torque to angle and 12 point are standard 2 step torque to spec..... 12 point are reusable.... that's all I use..iirc its step 1 torque to 56lbs and step 2 torque to 95 lbs...heat cycle the engine a few times and retorque them by breaking them loose 1 at a time and torque it back to 95 lbs...
75 turbo pinto trunk, megasquirt2, 133lb injectors, bv head, precision 6265 turbo, 3" exhaust,bobs log, 8.8, t5,, subframe connectors, 65 mm tb, frontmount ic, traction bars, 255 lph walbro,
73 turbo pinto panel wagon, ms1, 85 lb inj, fmic, holset hy35, 3" exhaust, msd, bov,

CanadianBatman

So should I be looking to find new stock bolts or just re-using the originals? I know manufacturers love to use torque to yield stuff, But I can't remember if they where used in these motors.
1979 Pinto Pinchero Custom body Truck!
1977 Vega stock 4cyl 4speed
1987 Chevette Scooter 2dr 4spd

Pinturbo75

you don't need to remove the cam to do the seals.... also, head studs are something I would not recommend.... after much discussion on turboford the big boys, over 500hp have found the stock 12 point head bolts to be stronger than the studs.... the studs don't go far enough into the deck and once tightened they pull up the deck surface and distort the surface causing premature headgasket failure
75 turbo pinto trunk, megasquirt2, 133lb injectors, bv head, precision 6265 turbo, 3" exhaust,bobs log, 8.8, t5,, subframe connectors, 65 mm tb, frontmount ic, traction bars, 255 lph walbro,
73 turbo pinto panel wagon, ms1, 85 lb inj, fmic, holset hy35, 3" exhaust, msd, bov,