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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Pinto will only stay running with pumpage or choke closed

Started by MitchiePinto, October 28, 2012, 02:47:41 PM

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Pinto5.0

'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

MitchiePinto

 :) I have the car running

Disconnected the amplifier from the solenoid

Took the battery from my truck and put it in

Without pumping it started and stayed running, idle was superior and strong

Now it backfires whenever you give it gas? condensation maybe or wires or is it just cold seeing its below zero here.

It runs great with the fresh battery so from what I learned here its a charging issue.


ToniJ1960

Quote from: r4pinto on January 12, 2013, 04:43:28 PM
True... It would have to be a power lead grounding out that would cause a short to ground

Right :)

r4pinto

True... It would have to be a power lead grounding out that would cause a short to ground
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

ToniJ1960

Quote from: MitchiePinto on January 12, 2013, 12:50:26 PM
Intresting, I just checked and I do not have a ground wire from the alt.

Also found no ballast resister I know its in the form of a big wire unless its hidden undercarpet or in the dash

Also found that the sound amplifier thingy in the trunk was connected to the starter solenoid which also resides in the trunk


Here I took some pics, ok well, cannot figure out how to send them on here lol

block is grounded to fender, batt is grounded to trunk body

Is the ignition module the one reading "wells" and has an aluminum body suppose to be grounded to the body, and the second module the one right above it whats with that little canister thing coming out of it?


A ground couldnt cause a short to ground.

r4pinto

Quote from: MitchiePinto on January 12, 2013, 12:50:26 PM
Intresting, I just checked and I do not have a ground wire from the alt.

Also found no ballast resister I know its in the form of a big wire unless its hidden undercarpet or in the dash

Also found that the sound amplifier thingy in the trunk was connected to the starter solenoid which also resides in the trunk

Here I took some pics, ok well, cannot figure out how to send them on here lol

block is grounded to fender, batt is grounded to trunk body

Is the ignition module the one reading "wells" and has an aluminum body suppose to be grounded to the body, and the second module the one right above it whats with that little canister thing coming out of it?

I took a look at the pics you sent me & the cylinder thing above the ignition module is a condenser to eliminate noise for the radio. Now you said the car was charging but what was the voltage when the car was running? Also the resister wire that earthquake is talking about is off of the big terminal on the left of the starter solenoid & on my 1980 it is yellow in color. There are two of them there & they have a rubber orange thingy about two inches from the terminal itself.
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

r4pinto

Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

MitchiePinto

Intresting, I just checked and I do not have a ground wire from the alt.

Also found no ballast resister I know its in the form of a big wire unless its hidden undercarpet or in the dash

Also found that the sound amplifier thingy in the trunk was connected to the starter solenoid which also resides in the trunk

Here I took some pics, ok well, cannot figure out how to send them on here lol

block is grounded to fender, batt is grounded to trunk body

Is the ignition module the one reading "wells" and has an aluminum body suppose to be grounded to the body, and the second module the one right above it whats with that little canister thing coming out of it?

ToniJ1960

Quote from: r4pinto on January 11, 2013, 04:29:20 PM
yes. The spark should be bright blue in color. Sounds like you have an ignition problem. Bad or no spark =  unhappy engine

This is interesting to know. I googled blue or orange spark to see if its true and I found someone who said they had orange spark and it was due to a short to ground from an alternator line somewhere shorting to the block and heating the block. I wouldnt really think the block would get hot this way its a lot of metal. But who knows, didnt you say your block was getting hot quick? Have you checked the voltages on the alternator output or on the battery while it was running?

r4pinto

yes. The spark should be bright blue in color. Sounds like you have an ignition problem. Bad or no spark =  unhappy engine
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

MitchiePinto

Ok like 30 seconds ago I check the spark, took plug #1 out and had someone crank while I holded the plug 1/2 away from grounded metal, and the spark was good really good even at an 1" away it shot.

The spark is orange in coulour any signifiance to that?

My timing belt has hair cracks, but it does move in sigrence to the fan belt

Could not check compresson as my antique tester was stuck, but it souded like enough air was rushing past the hole

Ticking sound when turning over, goes away when running, always did it

Pinto5.0

Bumping the key usually mens the solenoid is toast but it sounds like your entire wiring harness is hacked up.
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

MitchiePinto

Battery does go dead after a few secs of cranking, but it will hold a charge once the chargers on it.

Alternator might be junk but it did charge when it was running, maybe not enough charge.

Il try the battery out of my trusty chevrolet

I should also mention that in the summer time I had issues with contact, like I would have to play with the key on-off till the starter kick in, it would just bump till it finally got the juice

Changed the terminals and it stopped but would keep doing it every so often.

battery is grounded to the body where it meets the passenger seat.

Il try to find motivation today, but I have a guy that wants it for a 351 v8 and rollcage conversion

Pinto5.0

Quote from: MitchiePinto on January 08, 2013, 05:35:14 PM
Just put on the 2100 and no go.  :'(

If it helps any the previous owner re-located the battery to the trunk

The battery looses energy very fast you can't keep the ignition on for more than 7-9 mins

I noticed that most of the ignition wires had splits in them
( I quess the previous owner had the issue too)

That was something you should have mentioned before. Does the battery maintain a charge or does it go dead after a few seconds of cranking? If the battery is junk & the alternator isn't charging you may not have the voltage necessary to keep the ignition running. Most electronic ignitions wont fire the plugs if system voltage drops below 11 volts.

I would set a new battery on the cowl & connect the positive to the solenoid terminal & ground the negative. Then see what happens. I'm gonna smack myself in the head if you have had a lack of voltage this whole time.
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

MitchiePinto

Just put on the 2100 and no go.  :'(

If it helps any the previous owner re-located the battery to the trunk

The battery looses energy very fast you can't keep the ignition on for more than 7-9 mins

I noticed that most of the ignition wires had splits in them
( I quess the previous owner had the issue too)

ToniJ1960

 I think I was wrong doesnt the accelerator pump squirt into the throats or whatever? Maybe the mixture screw is in too far?

earthquake

the pinto uses a resistor wire instead of a ballast resistor.Also with the block getting really hot fast have you checked your timing belt to make sure you haven't skipped a tooth or 2.Just a thought.
73 sedan parts car,80 crusin wagon conversion,76 F 250 460 SCJ,74 Ranchero 4x4,88 mustang lx convertable,and the readheaded step child 86 uhhh Chevy 4x4(Sorry guys it was cheap)

Pinto5.0

Quote from: MitchiePinto on January 07, 2013, 07:30:20 PM
I have electronic ignition,

I have 6.8v going to the pos end of the coil when ignitions on

OK, this sounds low but I may be wrong where Fords are concerned. I know Chrysler ran a ballast resistor on electronic ignitions to reduce voltage at the coil(to 9 volts I think) but GM ran 12 volts direct to their HEI ignition. MSD's supply the coil voltage so I'm not sure what they are putting out. I'd really like to know what's correct on Fords. If my wagon was here I'd check my voltage but I wont be able to do that for a couple weeks.
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

ToniJ1960

 ok I might sound stupid but ill try this one. I would think pumping the gas would just add gas to the bowl from the accelerator pump. Heres an idea, have you pulled the top of the carb off and looked to see how full the bowl is?

MitchiePinto

I have electronic ignition,

I have 6.8v going to the pos end of the coil when ignitions on, starter silioud is new

I think its the carb a 1.21 2150, which might be sucking too much air for my stock block minus the headers, cam etc..

Im in the process of trying to re-bush a 2100 1.08 MC from the late 80's

Car falls flat on its face once you take the choke off or stop pumping

Pinto5.0

Points ignitions have a resistance wire that cuts voltage to the positive side of the coil to roughly 5 volts. This keeps the output of the coil below 30,000 volts to avoid burning up the points. Electronic ignition coils have a higher output(42,000 V & higher) & eliminate the resistance wire & will fry points rather quickly.

The resistance wire will cut electronic coils output voltage as well but if that wire to the positive side of the coil is failing & only putting 2 or 3 volts to the coil this would cause the intermittent run issues & the electronic coil is simply a band-aid until the wire fails completely.

A simple test to check this is to run a wire with an alligator clip on one end direct from the battery to the positive terminal on the coil after unhooking the stock wire & fire up the engine. See if this eliminates the problem & if it does you will need to replace the resistance wire to fix it. Don't leave the direct hookup connected for long or you will fry the points after about 30 minutes or so. Also, don't hook it direct untill you are ready to fire it up because this can fry the points after 5 or so minutes if the engine isn't running. 
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

allendeloura

Just a thought.  You say the car has point ignition.  I would try replacing the coil with one from an electronic ignition system. This along with changing the points again...no need to do the condenser as if it had failed you would not be getting anything.

I have experienced the same type of events before.  Motor would idle fine for a short while then she would appear to be suffreing from fuel starvation-which made no sense.  Under load on the road the motor would fall off and or backfire.  Chased these symptoms for a few hours thinking possibly a fuel issue, timing or vacuum leak(s) to no avail.  Swapped in another regular points type coil and still the same symptoms.  Then tried a coil from one of my electronic ignition cars and never had a problem again.

MitchiePinto

After tons of research I'm wondering if its my ignition timing being too far retarded.

My vaccuum gauge reads 18" hg with choke open and a little over 20" hg with choke closed

Vaccuum was steady but when the car stalls out the vaccuum drops fast normal? or ?

Car sneezes but no backfire

Its like its not igniting the fuel, just blowing raw fuel though the pipe

Block get very hot within seconds but the rad and hoses stay cool

Unless some how the distruberator moved (witch I find impossible)

Also merry christmas everyone

Any info would be great as this would be my last try before I send the car in for repairs (which is a 2 1/2 hour drive/tow )


MitchiePinto

Today I put a line to a empty can and the pump is working well with a cheap presure gauge I bought and it read roughly 8 psi.

Last time I did the intake gasket I put the gasket on wet, I did not drain the coolant and just slapped on the intake with coolant rushing out.

So im going to redo my intake the right way.

Is there any good ignition diagrams for the 1980 pinto? I have one for a duraspark system but it only shows one ignition module?, I have two box type things on the drivers side?

ToniJ1960

 I would just take it off right at the carb and run a hose into a jar and check that whole system, is gas getting to the carb or not that one check is at the end of the line so to speak. I know a lot more about troubleshooting electronics but this seems to make sense to me at least.

Pinto5.0

It shouldn't have a ballast resistor. That would cut voltage below 12 volts.
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

MitchiePinto

Thanks guys, Il try feeding the pump with a gas jug, then Il take a punch and go though the carb fuel filter (if first method fails)

Il check the sock in the tank

I think the coil module failing would be very rare

I have a spare dist. module that Il change first

I also have no ballast resistor, looks like the previous owner hard wired it without one

thanks for the help


Pinto5.0

Tonij1960 may be onto something. I haven't had that happen for almost 20 years but in the early days of Ethanol blend fuels the socks would melt. If the tank hadn't been filled with gas for a long time it can get rusty & that comes loose & clogs the sock as well as the carb filter. Try running a fuel line from the pump into a jug of gas to see if it helps. Pinholes in the hard line are an issue in the rustbelt.

Also try bloking off all vacuum lines from the carb & intake, especially power brakes to eliminate a potential leak.  A bad brake booster is a massive vacuum leak.

You eliminated everything besides the Duraspark box & distributor module.
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

ToniJ1960

 How far did you drive it the night before it started?

I had a 1979 wagon it ran ok to bring it home the next day it wouldnt stay running. I had the carb replaced, we changed the fuel pump and ignition module,fuel filter. It would go a few miles and stall out. Wait a little while it went a few more miles. We tried everything or we thought we did. It turned out to be the fuel sock the filter on the line inside the gas tank. I would blow out the line with an old bicycle pump to see if I heard bubbles in the tank and it ran ok for a few days. You just have to narrow it down pull off the fuel filter and stick a hose in a jar to see if its pumping enough gas. I waited until mine would stall then I did that and there was just a trickle.

Otherwise check to see if you smell gas like its loading up maybe. Pumping the gas is either adding more air or else its the accelerator pump adding more gas that makes a difference. Did you try changing the ignition module? I think I have a spare :)

MitchiePinto

Wondering if this is a low spark voltage issue?

I changed the mechanical fuel pump, intake gasket and siliconed the 1" rubber spacer to the intake to insure no leaks

No change so maybe its electrical?

What are some voltages, ohms and resistance tests I should be doing around the ignition system?

Replaced coil, cap & rotor, plugs & wires