i thought i would post some pics as i go along......this is not a fun job to do!
2nd
3rd
4th pile of scrap parts....one spring was broken....and i didn't know it! :o :-[
Nice work ( but make sure everything you put back is SHINEY black) ;)
you know it! ;D
Wow, that looks empressive,
I know who to call when it comes time to do mine.
Looks good. Must be nice to have those big holes in the fender wells to work with. Its tight without them.
It IS fun Jeff. Youll see when youre done. :-\
nope....not fun! I tried the rack, it won't budge. I'll have to wait till next time i pull the motor (hopefully never ;D) If you give me your paypal address i'll send the bucks for the shipment of those bolts, thanks soooo much!
heres a shot of my subframe connectors, they go to the spring perches on the rear leafs.....works well!
might as well through in an engine shot! It's not shiney.....hasn't been cleaned since last summer.
Thats a cool screw driver manifold orniment you have there 8)
thanks, i should have centred it better!
one side is together now....just waiting for some parts to arrive to get the other side done. I'll post pics when finished, then, i rip into the motor to install new heads, cam, intake and various other "shiney" parts!
Shiney=GOOD!!!
Hey Pete, did you send them by mail? They are still not here :'( While waiting, i took the perfectly good running engine apart to get ready for the new heads, cam and intake!
I shipped USPS Express Mail. The website shows they attempted to deliver it at 10:39 am yesterday.
Ill E-mail ya
no probs, the wife says she thinks she was in the laundry room around that time ::) They'll try again monday, thanks
Hey Pete, got the bolts Monday.....thanks big time!
Quote from: 78pinto on March 16, 2004, 01:43:44 AM
Hey Pete, got the bolts Monday.....thanks big time!
Youre welcome. Glad to help. FedEx (purolater?) will be the best way to go next time, eh?
Wheres all the pictures?
My engine bay is painted, I have the drivers side upper arm loosely bolted in and I bent a new drivers side brake line, too.
ITS GOING BACK TOGETHER!!
well, it's back together! Just need to torque things proper and put the cotter pins in......now for the engine work! :'( I'll take some pic of whats left of it tomorrow.
LET IT END.......I JUST WANT TO DRIVE IT!!!
the heads, cam and intake are on. i'll take pics this week. Here are pics of the heads after paint
ford blue and clearcoat! stainless vavles and killer porting
Oh, I see ( NOW ) your going to make your engine ( Shiney)..Figures........... 8)
Looks great.
When does the track open?
Ours opens on Friday. I wont be able to run the Pinto yet. :(
ours open Friday also......i won't be there! Still have lots of work to go yet.
update: iv'e done nothing :o, i'm on days and have to be here for the kids while mom works nights. New header bolts....Nickel plated...very shiney, stainless upper to lower bolts....shiney and valve cover bolts....yup...stainless and shiney ;D I should have the headers and upper intake back this weekend from the ceramic coating place, and they should be shiney as well. I bought a set of March pullies and alt. bracket in billet aluminum.....Dam Brad....they are shiney too! Your gonna need shades to look in my engine compartment 8) ;) Post pics when i get a chance to take some :'(
I Hate you ;D
:'( thats not very nice! :'(
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Hey..........i just noticed..... it says "Pinto posting forum god" in your sidebar! You've been kissin butt again haven't you?! ;) Oh well......iv'e got YOUR purple stars, na na, na na na
See reply above........ :o :-X :-*
here are some pics from today
suspension
again
Brad, i think i'm buying an MSD pro billet distributor in about an hour, and ya know.....its freakin shiney ;D *update* I bought it for $177 !
Nice Pictures. I started to forget what a complete front end looks like. Do you always run without a swaybar?
Those tubular arms really give ya some room. What was the weight savings?
Shine on 8)
Yes, i have no sway bar. They are for people who want to take corners fast.....my front rims, at 3 1/2 inches wide, don't WANT to be cornered fast! It is set up for the dragstrip, no corner carving for me. I'm not sure on the weight savings.....but there is a big difference in the weight of the two of them. Next time i have to pull the motor i will get a new rack and put my new bushings in.
well, its what i thought would happen, i dropped her down from the stands and the front end sits way too high, i now have to take it apart and cut the springs >:( :'( was thinking of cutting off one full coil, any thoughts on this, i need to lower about 2-3 inches. I hate cars...... ;)
Wow :o
I was wondering about mine after getting it on the ground and its still maxed out. After I saw the size of the t5 that came out of the Tbird today, I dont think there will be a problem.
I dont know how many coils to cut. ???
not fun, i may go as much as a coil and a half! It's way up there...it looks like one of those "gassers" from the '60's What do you think Brad? EDIT: look at my avitar photo, kind of like that....but sitting still!
brad, any idea how much i should cut the coils?
well it sits normal now...only had to take the front left side apart and back together 3 times! :o >:( Hit or miss, i decided to cut the springs a little at a time....didn't want to cut too much off and scrap a new pair of spring. Right side i just cut off once at the same point as the final cut on the left....looks good. Brad... got some shiney pieces today, my ceramic coated headers and intake finally are done! They are going on Friday. ;D
intake pic........and it only cost me a kajillion dollars! :-\
one more.....
Cool!
Are the headers ceramic coated? Also, how much did you end up cutting off the springs?
yes, intake and headers both ceramic coated, I cut off two complete coils, plus about an inch and a half or so. The springs are 302 with air for a mustang II
OOOOOHHH SHINEY!!! ;) those will look plum sharp on your 'Lil Horse Jeff!! (I hope they make it as fast as it is SHINEY!!)
i hope so too! I'll take some pics tomorrow after its all installed.
They look kinda like plastic model parts in the pics. :P
Youll just need a flashlight as a droplight when you work under the hood, theres so much shiney. ;D
I still have to finish a roll of film before I can show my less shiney parts.
Shiney , .........Good.........spend more $$$. We want to see more shiney stuff.......... ;D
more pics! I need a new custom rad now, my alternator is in the way! More freakin $$$ The 6 million dollar Pinto for god sakes ;D
another
about 3 1/2 inches of clearance :o
That sure is a purty engine. Dont worry about the ground clearence. Youll have plenty after your first wheelie. ;)
yup lots of room for wheelies! It's the landing that'll kill me! :o :'(
Jeff, Is that dirt and oil I see on the rack ????? >:( >:( >:(
Dirt/Oil not shiney......bad............ :o
Yes it is....and its gonna stay there untill the next time i pull the engine! Then i'll clean it all up, replace the rack (might as well, everything else is new) put in my new bushing and make it look shiney. Untill then.....screw it! ;D
Well....more money spent today. Just ordered a Harwood cowl scoop 43x29.5x4 inches high! At 43 inches long i'll be cutting some off....unless front overhang would look cool? :D ;) It's a bolt on scoop.
Jeff, you WILL have more clearance after your 1st wheelie... the pan, headers,& exhaust will be flattened!!!!
I"M KIDDING!!!!
I wouldn't wish that on you or ANYONE! 3.5" ought to be fine, but if you want to absolutely certain you could put some X-large bumpstops in among the shiney stuff in the front end
its pretty stiff really (the front end i mean) The springs are cut down....but they are 302 "air" springs so hopefully my shiney headers stay off the road!
got my new (shiney ;D) aluminum rad today, $776 Canadian....cha ching :-\ Looks goooood though, i'll be puting it in tomorrow. Pictures will come soon after. My hood is still not done yet >:( hopefully this week, or i'll be cruising around town without one!
my rad slipped right in....with the help of my cutoff wheel :o bought all new hoses today, i'll put them on Monday and snap a picture or two. Had to "modify" my thermostat housing a bit (yup, with the cutoff wheel) to make the outlet more level to the rad hight. I'll be firing it up next week, just have to put my new A9L computer in first, and ground pin #30 and install a few resistors where sensors once were. (no EGR, TAB, TAD, EVP ect. no smog stuff!) ..............god, i hope it runs.... ;)
If it won't Jeff I'm sure you've got the resources to get it running. nuttin like bein' a Ford "insider" LOL
done....sort of. i'm gonna start it tonight or tomorrow.
again
last one
Looks great.
Start it and do a wheely.
Started it up tonight! Some minor issues arose, leaks and whatnot.....but it RAN! Sounds awesome, i'll be playing with the timing and whatnot tomorrow. Every neighbour within a 1 block radius came out to see what was making all the "noise"!
i am very jealous now for two reasons. 1) your car is running and 2) it looks awesome under the hood. Good job Jeff it looks killer hope it runs well. If you want my friend with the nova is runnin his mouth about fords especially pintos. wanna come clean him.
Brad #2
thanks Brad, once i get it all sorted out.....i'm gonna go looking for some chevies! lol
well i fired it up today, a few minor coolant leaks (fixed) then i broke the valvetrain and cam in for about 20 minutes at between 1500 and 2200 rpms. It would not idle at all just kept stalling. I dissconected the battery for 20 minutes, unplugged the idle air control, fired it up and set the idle to about 950 rpm with the throttle stop, shut it off reconected the IAC started it again and set the TPS to .98 volts and it idles perfectly! I still have a small annoying vacum leak on the upper where the tree is located, i'll pull the upper and fix that tomorrow.
I think i have everything worked out fine now. I put some resisters in where the EGR, TAB, TAD,EVP selenoids were (came in a kit for this purpose) They trick the computer into thinking it's all still there, but not opening (better than no raedings at all) Idles great, goes like hell, smokes the tires untill i let off (sidewys in a big hurry!) Line lock is in and works great....BUT, I'm still waiting for my hood to get finished. He says Monday or Tuesday (its all cut and fitted, just has to paint it) I'll be taking it to the Tuesday night cruise with or without the hood! My project is finished for now.
QuoteMy project is finished for now.
Congratulations!
I can hardly wait for the day I can say the same....
is it ever REALLY over.....no... so i started on my carpet and seats last night. Becky and i took all the interior trim off, removed the seatbelts, took out both front and rear seats, and removed the old faded red carpet. I bought a black reproduction, along with some extra carpeting to do the trunk also. I also bought some dynamatt to try and keep the engine sounds and the electric fuel pump sound from entering through the firewall and trunk area. I'll be using high density fibre board to block off the trunk behind the rear seats. I'll post some pictures later. My floor pan has a bit of surface rust, so i'll be hitting it with a wire brush then a good coating of tremclad. Factory seat brackets and sliders will be going on my plastic racing buckets....but they are nowhere close to lining up, so i'll be fabricating some adapter plates.
the seat with cover on
Snazzy seats, Jeff.
Who makes the repro carpet? I'm planning on redoing my interior in black, so I need to grab some repro carpet that fits in without a bunch of cutting and fitting.
NOS Reproductions in Komoka, Ontario Canada. $198 Canadian funds, i think they said they are made by a company in Georgia....but i might be wrong on that.http://www.nosreproductions.com/ (http://www.nosreproductions.com/)
well, the carpet is in! The trunk has been insulated and carpeted, my batteries died in the camera before i even got one shot of it before install...i'll take some tomorrow. Seats are next!
Seats are in, if its not raining tomorrow i'll snap some pictures, i also ordered some 1/8 aluminum and will be making my own door sills as the factory stuff is nasty looking and corroding badly. To anyone wanting to put plastic racing seats in there Pinto: The pasenger side is different in that the seat mounting brackets are closer together (left bracket is about an inch or so closer to the outboard bracket) I did not see this and made up two mounting plates the same, needless to say i had to modify the passenger side to make it work! :-[ Live and learn......measure twice....cut once!
ok, here are some pictures. I painted the center tray black (it was red) and it turned out great, i may do the same to the kick panels as they are faded really bad. I made the scuff plates out of 1/8th inch aluminum checker plate, the factory ones were oxidizing badly....and the carpet was put in the die off center and the edge was not long enough to go under the tiny scuff plates.
other side
scuff plates
seats
oh and i put on a 5 liter Mustang fresh air, fenderwell kit to draw cool air from the fenderwell, instead of hot engine compartment air.
soon i'll redo the back seats to match the front ones, but for now, it will stay as is. This is a before picture. I see it started a new page, if you go back to page 4 the first pictures i just posted are there.
Spiffy!
the hood is done.....not really thinking i like it. It needs to be red and have the screw holes filled, but that wasn't an option as i have to wait till this winter to have it painted. With it being black it really draws attention to it and thats not what i was looking for. Opinions wanted.....honest ones!
other angle
and another
Honest opinion?
You're right. It needs to be red like the rest of the car and the seams where the scoop meets the hood need to be de-emphasized a bit with body filler sculpted and sanded smooth.
maybe i'm too used to the old scoop, not really liking it at all. :'(
Wow Jeff youre car is looking great. The interior is bitc hin.
As for the hood scoop.....I think it looks too big for the car. Then again I like the second shot. I think the design doesnt match the Pinto.
Maybe when its painted it might blend.
If you had the hood red after some photoshopping we might be able to give you a better idea as well as yourself. I would like to see the scoop flow back more at an angle similar to the grill tilt. That matching tilt might not be doable though. Your ride is sweet nonetheless. I'm JEALOUS!
Quote from: Glassman on June 14, 2004, 02:22:42 PM
Wow Jeff youre car is looking great. The interior is bitc hin.
As for the hood scoop.....I think it looks too big for the car. Then again I like the second shot. I think the design doesnt match the Pinto.
Maybe when its painted it might blend.
Yes i think it looks too big, but is that because its black and very obvious? I have to have it that big to cover the engine.... no choice. Can anyone photoshop it red, filling in the screw holes?
hey man nice ride... do you think you could give me a hand with something .. im trying to find replacement doors and fenders for my 1980 pinto and im having a hell of a time trying to find them
sure, i'll private message you....check your pm's Jeff
I sure don't want to sound negative, but the new scoup just doesn't blend with the lines of the car. Something more soft, smooth, rounded--natural looking. Have you looked into full fiberlass hoods with built in cowl scoups?
It's rough, but I think taking on the color of the car makes it fit in much better.
It's a rough job, but I think painting the scoop red is a big improvement.
JMHO.
Ok, I thought I was on the right track about getting it "painted" for a better opinion. I looks much better, seems to flow now, if you will, from the front of the hood. It looks, for lack of a better description, blobby in black when I compare the 2. IMHO
i had somebodt do some photoshop work on it here they are. I like this much better as opposed to being black!
another...first one is a bonded look (previous page) this is filled bolt holes and painted red.
i agree, with just a lil paint and some fiberglass work it will look so much better, too bad you have to wait until winter. the cars looking great though....keep it up, and keep the pictures coming. I see it looking like this if you molded the hood to the scoop real smooth and with a lot of work.
underside, headers
Never mind. I found your other post about the subframe connectors.
now i'm thinking......single Holset HX35 turbo from a Dodge Cummins :o :o :o :o.....hmmm. I'm looking into it and will follow up on my idea later.
last trip to the dragstrip loosened up my 9 inch bad so i took it apart put new bearings, seals and gears in (3.50) its back together now and ready to rock! Those third members are very heavy and ackward to put back in when up on jackstands!
my front springs have settled.....they are too low at the front, i cut too much off them :-[ oh well live and learn! I decided to go with a front coil over shock set up instead of getting new springs. $349 bucks aint too bad, and best of all they are adjustable... and SHINEY!
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp/strBase_List./hilt./source.2192/base_no.2559000/str_base_no.000%2DCATALOG+STREET%2C1356021%2C25508%2C2551818B%2C2551866C%2C2551951%2C2552254%2C2553235A%2C2553243A%2C2559000%2C44408%2C58211%2C582C500%2C582SM%2C582SM400%2C7022506%2C721395%2C721485%2C721585%2C721785%2C/header_title.Street+Rod+Products%2DShocks+%26+Mounts/page_name.prod%5Flist%5Fdisplay%2Easp/search_type.L1%7E299/search_option./deptsearch./deptSearch_id.225/dept_id.L1%7E299/dept_id_p./dept_name./dept_name_p.Street+Rod+Products/ShowImages.yes/sq.0/cont.1/intPgNo.1/redirect./qx/product.htm (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/xq/asp/strBase_List./hilt./source.2192/base_no.2559000/str_base_no.000%2DCATALOG+STREET%2C1356021%2C25508%2C2551818B%2C2551866C%2C2551951%2C2552254%2C2553235A%2C2553243A%2C2559000%2C44408%2C58211%2C582C500%2C582SM%2C582SM400%2C7022506%2C721395%2C721485%2C721585%2C721785%2C/header_title.Street+Rod+Products%2DShocks+%26+Mounts/page_name.prod%5Flist%5Fdisplay%2Easp/search_type.L1%7E299/search_option./deptsearch./deptSearch_id.225/dept_id.L1%7E299/dept_id_p./dept_name./dept_name_p.Street+Rod+Products/ShowImages.yes/sq.0/cont.1/intPgNo.1/redirect./qx/product.htm)
just have to decide what spring rate i need and i'll be good to go. I am also buying a programable tuning system for the computer (EEC) in my car so i can toy with injector pulse width, timing, air fuel mixture....from inside the car while driving. I'm getting a Crane Interceptor II. I'm also considering a 75-100 shot of nitrous......should be fun!
so what did you decide about the dodge cummins diesel turbo into the 351? sounds like you got enough planned already though.
i decided the turbo is not a real good idea with my pistons.....maybe on the next engine! ;D
bought the EEC tuner today (crane interceptor II) and may have a nitrous kit by tomorrow if all goes well!
its going 11's one way or another!
new SHINEY Carrera coil-overs on the way.....its going to be the 6 cajillion dollar car if this keeps up! :o I think my wife may want to divorse me.....
coil-overs went in yesterday, the headers will be spared from anymore pavement scraping! They are a nice setup and the ride hieght is fully adjustable...... a bit pricey but well worth it. i'll post a picture later.
other side
Are those rust spots on the disks?! :o ;D
Hey, that's pretty cool! I wouldn't mind having some of those on my car, but since I drive it in the winter, I would be worried about blowing a seal in the cold weather.
How does that setup compare to the stock spring and shock absorber weight-wise?
yes thats rust on the disks! I have no garage to park my baby in during the rain.
Straw Boss- Blow a seal in what? The shock is.....just a shock, the weight is supported by the stock upper spring pocket and the ring around the shock body. It rides 300% better than the cut coils i was using. I'm very happy with them.
Is it realy raining in the middle of august? We're having the 'hot summer nights' car shows right now. There's boat races down the river this weekend!
I also get rusty brakes when I don't drive. The car lives outside while all the tools and spare parts live in the garage.
If I remember right, those coil-overs are advertised as bolt in. Did they really just "bolt in" or was there some other work to be done. (hammer, duct tape, torch...) They still look really SHINEY so it must not have been too bad?
we have had an unusual amount of rain this summer...and its been on the cool side too. They are a direct bolt on just like it said......nothing like duct tape, torches, welders or anything!
Quote from: 78pinto on August 19, 2004, 09:33:54 PM
Straw Boss- Blow a seal in what? The shock is.....just a shock
Well, that's the problem. Every couple of years my shocks start to leak. I assume it is from the cold weather, but it could just be the nature of NAPA shocks!
Great!
Sheesh the one header tube on the passenger side looks like it is worn flat and through. I bet the ceramic coating helps alot. Maybe you can adjust the front all the way up and get the wheels to come off the ground on take off. That would really cool while your lighting up the rears on fire. :o
yes, most of that was pre-coating damage.....but some has been since they were coated >:( its not right through though.
Quote from: 78pinto on August 19, 2004, 09:33:54 PM
yes thats rust on the disks! I have no garage to park my baby in during the rain.
Jeff, I know I've told you this about as many times as dollars you have been spending latley, ;), But Rust is NOT Shiney................. :-\ >:( :'( ;D
well....i have made a decision, i'm going to be putting a turbo in it over the course of the fall and winter. I'm thinking Holset HX35W from a Dodge Cummins truck. This is not me thinking about it......i'm going to do it!
Jeff, there are better turbos to use. Dont buy one yet !!!! >:(
Tell me what you think Brad.... The Holset is cheap, i have Hyperutectic pistons, so i can't pump 12-15 lbs of boost to it, my shift point is 5500rpm. My guestamate for RWHP is about 400 to 450 with about 6-8 lbs of intercooled boost. Also, i can only go 11.50's or i will have to put a cage in it.....not ready to do that yet! What turbo were you thinking of? I was also considering a T04b......talk to me Brad ;D
I like the TO4B,S-3 trim for your car, Or you could do a T3/T4, 60 trim. BUT, to do it right it would be best to review all the compressor maps and see what trim would be most efficent on your combo. In order to do that you just need to plug in your specs on a turbo calculator like the one on Ray Hall Turbos and it will spit out the info. Then, find one thats close to what you need at a good price.
yes i was also thinking T04b but....i can get the 8000km Holset HX35 for about $140 U.S. I'll look into it and see what i can come up with. I'm only looking to run 6-8 lbs of boost, with rpms in the 5500 range so i won't need alot of turbo for that.
the turbo is not meant to be, i have to change too many things to get that combo to work, (injectors, mass air meter, headers) and it is just too much money. So....Nitrous it is, with a 3200 stall convertor! My buddies STOCK engined '92 LX 5 liter runs 11.90's with a 150 shot, i'll only go 75 or so, should be good for low 11's i have no cage so an 11.49 will get me booted from the track! I'll maybe use an adjustable time delay setup to kick it in when i hit high gear.
Are you going to do a wet or dry system?
it will be a dry set up.
FYI, I had a dry setup on my Green car and it all works BUT if I had it to do over I would go with a wet system.
why a wet system?
The Dry system relies on your fuel pressure regulator to slam shut ( the fuel return)and provide the 100 lbs pressure to the injectors for added fuel.This is a risk if you do not have a paxton fp regulator made with a kevlar diaphram. ( its even worse if you add boost but I wont go there). So, this does not allow you to regulate your fuel/nos ratio with any acuracy. With the wet system you can either use your existing fuel pump or add one. you have both a nos AND a fuel jet. You can regulate the fuel pressure with some degree of acuracy with a pressure regulator that was made for the system and even regulate the fuel pump output by the voltage you send it. Just my 2c
Are we talking about a wet/dry NOS system? I didn't know there were different ways to run it. I am new to the world of nitrous. I know nitro though. Very fun stuff!
Yes. The two are defined by a seperate fuel system on the wet and using the factory fuel system on the dry.
How do you add a seperate fuel system? Is the nitrous mixing with the fuel before it is injected? Do you just have a seperate injector for when you are running the nos?
If you run it dry, do you increase fuel pressure to keep the a/f ratio the same once you hit the button?
In a wet system the actual N2O injector has 2 nozzles, one for fuel the other for n2o. Take a fogger or plate system under a carb. One side of the spray bar has fuel solenoids the other the n2o. In a direct system the injectors have 2 nozzles to increase the fuel supply to compensate fot the n2o. the plumbing issues for a wet system are considerable, as you're adding a complete second fuel supply system. (pump & all) but the reliabiltiy & repeatability of a wet system are awesome.
A dry system has usually one injector in the intake pipe of an FI car, or in the breather of a carbed one. However in either setup you HAVE to add extra fuel to compensate for the n20. If not you'll discover quickly that n2o by itself is REALLY bad for pistons. Dry systems are great for a small shot of "naws" because of thier ease of installation, especially on FI motors. For a BIG spray you'd be better off using a "wet" system
Another Proviso for nitrous.. if you intend to add big # spray you MAY want forged pistons to handle the extra pressures & higher cylinder temps.
Dry setup bought, and on its way, i have an aftermarket adjustable billet aluminum regulator (shiney) on the car allready. I'll only be spraying 50-75 shot, at 11.49 i need a cage and thats not gonna happen yet.
the kit will be dropped off hopefully tomorrow before i go to work, i'm off next week, so i'll install it then.
I saw a video of you racing 78pinto, and I was wondering what kind of exhaust you had on yours, It sounds really good.
the mufflers are 2.5 inch two chamber flowmasters
Hey Brad, any idea how to hook up an aftermarket fuel level sender in my fuel cell? I have two wires running from the old sender....and no real idea what to do. It seems my new unit only uses a one wire hookup.
Yeah, the ground wire ( the tab on the sender that is NOT in the middle) go's all the way back to the guage ground. The Center post on the sender go's back to the guage and hooks up to the ( s ) post ( on a auto meter guage). Then the 12 volt ignition source is connected to the ( I ) post of the guage.
no autometer gauge, just a factory set up. The loom has two wires in it, black and i think white....or maybe it yellow. My sender only has the center lug conector.
OK, well the black would go to a grond source on the tank, you probably will need to attach a ground lug some where on the sender. then it should be simple to use the factory wires. If its white or yellow it should go to the center post. Do you know what Ohm sender you have. the ford's are like chrysler and NOT like GM.
No idea, it was bought off Ebay, its new. Crap, i didn't know there was a difference! I'll mess with it and see ft it will work, my fuel filter was clogged up with all kinds of crap, i drained out the cell, cleaned it and the filter, installed the sender and put it all back together yesterday. Thanks for the info, hopefully it will work!
Cool :D
DiDn't work Brad, if i connect the two wires the guege goes up, if i try it through the sender it does not work. Must be the wrong one. Gues i'll be getting an aftermarket gauge! thanks
the nitrous kit is installed now, just have to fill the bottle, put my new filler neck on and i'm ready to rock......except....it feels like its going to snow! :o >:( I'll snap a few pictures on the weekend. Ive set it up for a 75 shot..... if i use the 150, i'll get booted from the track in a hurry!
Huh Hh, He said snow...... ;D Snow is NOT shiney......... :'(
No snow ISN'T shiney, but it is all sparkly & clean.... Hope we don't get too much of it this year, I just bought a set of Kumho Ecsta summer tires for my Lil' Horse.
well, i blew the motor in the beast yesterday :o >:( :'( Has a loud knock in the engine on the driver's side. I think i broke a piston or pin.....but i got the moment it broke on video, as my buddy Frank was video taping me doing a large smokey burnout. I'm pulling the motor out this week to tear it down...i'll post some pictures of the carnage, and no, i never even got to try out the nitrous yet! :'(
Hey, Carnige ( can ) be shiney......... ;) :o :'(
OHHH NOOOOOOO!!!!! :o :o :o that stinks man (or it it that are greats?)
Hmmm may just be time for that twin turbo 351 ya reckon??? Who cares about SHINEY when you outrun the gleam
Man Jeff,
That would really zoop in my world, you seem to be taking it on the chin however,
I salute you!
I'll know more of what i'm going to do when i see what happened.... Forged pistons WILL be part of the reassembling process, possibly with some forged rods.
Quote from: Scott Hamilton on October 31, 2004, 11:26:46 PM
Man Jeff,
That would really are great in my world, you seem to be taking it on the chin however,
I salute you!
Well Scott.....in my world....it does *zoop*! ;D But what can i do, Rather messin around at 30 mph than at 120mph at the dragstrip :o It could have been wayyyy worse at 6000rpm with a 75 of nitrous :'( I salute you right back!
Quote from: crazyhorse on October 31, 2004, 10:54:50 PM
OHHH NOOOOOOO!!!!! :o :o :o that stinks man (or it it that are greats?)
Hmmm may just be time for that twin turbo 351 ya reckon??? Who cares about SHINEY when you outrun the gleam
Thats sacrilege saying that about shiney........... :-X
your right Brad, we should BAN him! :o ;D
Oh please Great Pinto gurus Do not ban poor lil ole me!! :o
I promise to NEVER take Shiney in vain again!!
*insert gratuitous but kissing here :-* :-* *
LOL, ok....but NEVER take the word shiney and use it in vain! :-X ;D
Quote from: 78pinto on November 04, 2004, 11:50:43 PM
LOL, ok....but NEVER take the word shiney and use it in vain! :-X ;D
Yeah..what he said........... >:( >:( >:( ;)
looks like i'll be building a 408 stroker, i just bought some forged H beam rods....good for 800hp :o
nitrous kit
Man, that rug will really fly now with the NOS system attached. I think AliBaba will never catch you............ ;D
yea it should really kick some butt! Aladin has nothing on me!
SUNDAY SUNDAY SUNDAY.....ITS THE FLYING CARPET NATIONALS!
I bought an Eagle 4.00 stroker crank, eagle H beam 4340 forged rods 6.200 length, Probe SRS forged pistons (dished for about 9.7:1 compression) and moly rings. The block and rotating assebly will be good to about 800hp ;DÂ I have to clearance the block for the rods (they are beefy s u c k e r s) and get the rotaing assembly balanced then i'll be ready to start putting it back together. I figure i'll be somewhere around the 450hp to the wheels give or take (i can't go faster than 11.50's anyhow) It will end up at 408 CIÂ ....i almost bought a 427 kit but the deal fell through.
I may be catching up with you soon in the shiney dept. Im looking at a couple wagons. I just hope I can sneak another car past Beth and the apt. people. So far I have 4 vehicles and they only allow 2. ::)
I finally got all my engine parts! The Eagle crank, Eagle H-beam rods, rings (molly) and Probe SRS pistons go in to get ballanced (with the harmonic balancer and flywheel) this weekend, do you think the Pinto with a 408 will be hard to control in the snow, with M/T ET streets? :o
here it is, hibernating for the winter....waiting for the engine to be dropped in. I think i'm going to cut out the inner fenders to try to keep it a little cooler under the hood next summer
That ladder wing will look great bolted to the deck lid....... :o
While my rotating assembly is off getting balanced, i decided to make the Pinto loom and the fuel injection loom one and the same to clear up some of the clutter on the firewall......i am also removing the EFI wires that are not being used in the loom (factory guage wires, emissions wires ect..) .....have i ever mentioned that i hate wiring! (pictures tomorrow) While i was in there i decided to remove the inner fenders.....entirely, this will help keep it cooler under the hood as i have added 51 cubic inches to my 351w (was bored 30 over to make 357) by adding a 408 stroker kit. Things went fairly well, but my hood release cable got buzzed by the cutting wheel, cutting it in half in the blink of an eye :-[Â Without the fenderwells, it looks like you could stuff a V10 in there! I will brace it later so the body doesn't flex. I should have no header clearance issues now ;DÂ
i will stop adding to this thread, i started a new one titled "408 stroker, rewiring (puke) and remove inner fenders" that will continue on with my 20 year ??? 50 million dollar Pinto project called "the money pit"Â ....er i mean "The Redrocket".
the new thread is here http://www.fordpinto.com/smf/index.php?topic=1554.msg9617#msg9617
here are the pictures of the rewiring and joining of the pinto loom and the EFI mustang loom.
and with the inner fenders cut out.
other side.
:o All I can say is WOW
Now you have room for a 500+ ci stroker.
No, 408 is all its getting! Next engine......god forbid anytime soon... 4.6 cammer with twin turbos. The wiring looks fun don't it :o I'll post a picture later of the completed loom.
Quote from: 78pinto on February 09, 2005, 11:48:07 PM
Next engine......god forbid anytime soon... 4.6 cammer with twin turbos.
I see an NHRA license pass in your future.
HMMMM is it just me or does the harness run right thru where the block will sit? ;D
Maybe you could cut each wire & add 6" to it? ;D
then you'd have handled each & EVERY wire at least one. I know how much you LOVE electrical Jeff :P
trust me.....ive handled them all at least once! I just love electrical. Rewiring is done, post a picture Monday.
here is the completed wiring, the voltage regulator will be mounted up under the fender out of view (have to make a bracket)
right side
left side
for the inner fenders, i think i'm going to use 1/4 inch expanded steel sheet to fill the void, and that will let the hot underhood air escape and yet fill in the shape of the engine compartment so it doesn't look so wide open.
Yes Jeff, it looks wide open, but is there enough structure there to keep the chassis from twisting? I'd try to find a way to tie the firewall to the rad support. The 408 may be a bit too much for just the "frame rails" to hold up to. Welding in an angle iron brace from the top of the firewall to the rail just where it meets the rad support would not only return strength, but give you more area to attach your expanded metal "fenderwells" If you used aluminum angle you could polish it 'till it's SHINEY ;D
yea i thought of that.....but if i do twist it, it will give me a reason to build a tube chassis ;D Here is what it looked like when i bought it. :-\
Oh it's GONNA twist, it already did seeing as it left on the rt rear tire the way it did. In the gallery is a friend of mine's car. (in racers under Pete's Pinto) He's got a built 351 on nitrous in it. (a SOLID 10sec car) When he launches the passenger window frame separates from the body a good 2". He just cut holes for his headers to pass thru.
***
the balancing is completed, the machine shop polished the crank and resized the rods (they were both brand new! you'd think that Eagle would be good about the QC they do on their parts?!) I'll start the assembly process so i can see where the bottom of the cylinder skirts need to be notched for clearance of the rod bolts.
My buddy Frank really wants my 408 stroker.....so much that he wants to trade for a brand new 2003 5.4 lightning motor complete with supercharger..... i'm considering this option, but it is going to stick way up through the hood, even more than the 351w does. I can still use my C4/C5 with a trans adapter. What do you'all think, supercharged 5.4 or 408 stroker (both would be fuel injected of course) Here is a picture of a 5.4 through the hood of a Mustang II
go with the 5.4. get thumbs up for cool factor and the rediculous power that can be twisted from the motor and still be driveable. I test drove a lightning and they run hard. I can only imagine one in a pinto. Go fo it.
I say 5.4 becasue i've always wanted to put a modular v-8 in mine. I'd go with the 5.4
I think that the 5.4 looks pretty damn sweet. I've lined up against lightnings at the street legals. I beat them off the line (4.62 rearend, 3.99 first, 9" stickies; I beat a lot of people off the line), but they run me down with 13.0s. True there is no replacement for displacement, but big inches on the street has it's own set of problems.
Cool. Are you going to shiney up the engine compartment?
Youre Pinto keeps getting more bad butt . I cant wait to see the track pics and times.
here is the site for the 5.4 powered Mustang II
http://members.aol.com/thndersnake/
Nice work, that looks great. I thought I was crazy for putting a 351 in a pinto, that thing with a blower must be insane
(http://members.aol.com/thndersnake/tsnake2.jpg)
too much work and money to convert to 5.4 so i'm sticking with the 408. I'll post pictures as i build the engine and tackle the front twist issue with some tubing. I'm also adding an airbag to the right rear spring on the car to keep the beast from squating during lauches at the dragstrip... it should improve my 60ft times. I think i'm going to also trade out my 2500 stall for a 3200 for a better lauch.
here are my front end bars....to keep it from twisting
fenderwell firewall
framerail mount, most of the innerfender opening will be filled with perferated sheet metal hiding the bars in behind it. This will make the engine compartment look more enclosed.
That'll hold it together Jeff. I see someone there welds like I do!.... keep adding weld 'till it looks solid!
its a ruff spot to get at with the fenders on....i was going to tig it, but the metal on the firewall is up against the insulation by the wiper motor and i didn't want to burn it to the ground.......yet! I'll use a blending disk to make it look pretty.
Here is the finished product (other than tie strapping the looms back up under the fenders)
other side
front shot
That looks REALLY nice Jeff. I like the material you used, it looks like it belongs in there. It'll look ESPECIALLY nice with the F.I. motor. Tres Hi Tech. That'll keep the Red Rocket cool too. 8)
Ok, i have the block cleaned, clearanced for the stroker crank and rods. The pistons have been hung on the rods, (spiral locks are a pain in the butt) and the rings have been filed and fitted. The crank has been set in the block and bolted down using ARP main bolts. today i'll be putting the pistons in and buttonning up the short block. I'll post some pictures later.
Quote from: 78pinto on May 01, 2005, 01:02:12 PM
Ok, i have the block cleaned, clearanced for the stroker crank and rods. The pistons have been hung on the rods, (spiral locks are a pain in the butt) and the rings have been filed and fitted. The crank has been set in the block and bolted down using ARP main bolts. today i'll be putting the pistons in and buttonning up the short block. I'll post some pictures later.
hehehe, yep.those spiral locks will tear you up ( even better when removing them............... >:( >:( >:( :'( :'( )
Ive never had problems putting in the locks.
Hope I never have to take them out!!!!!!!
From Pintony
I went last night and found out they take two spiral locks on each side, getting the first ones in was a pain......but putting in the second ones was way worse! :-\ :'( I might blow the day off work to assemble the shortblock today.
The 408 is assembled, and painted Ford blue with a nice clearcoat finish(very shiney)! I had some clearance issues with the oilpan and oilpump with the stroker rods and crank, a BFH fixed the oilpan problem and a grinder solved the counterweight hitting the oilpump problem! I'll take the trusty battery eating digital camera with me tomorrow and get some shots before i screw the paintjob up putting the engine in the car ::) :'(
Here are the pictures. Looks the same as last year from the outside.....but it's a 408 stroker! ;D
another. My buddy Tom is coming over tomorrow morning to help me scratch the paint....er...put the engine in the beast. Should have it running by this weekend or early next week as i'm waiting on a sampling tube for my C&L 76mm mass air meter to calibrate it for the 42lb injectors.
Engine is in.....and with only minor scratches! This is my buddy Tom, He has a '71 with a carbed 351w in it. See.....you don't need to cut out the upper rad support to drop a V8 in, so don't do it!
in and bolted up
WOW That is SWEET!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice job 78Pinto.
KEEP us posted.
From Pintony
Oh! and try not to blow this one up!!!!!!! ;D
thanks Tony......if i blow this one up, my wife will KILL me! :-\
OOOOOH! SHINEY!!!! lookin great '78 Pinto. If it runs HALF as god as it looks, you'll be in the 10's!
i hope not 10's ......it'll be my last trip down the track, they'd boot me off for sure! ;D
The Pinto is 99% put back together, i'm going to run the fuel pump with the feed line dissconected to make sure no debris gets into my new 42lb injectors. I'll recheck all hoses, wire connections ect, fill it with some crappy no-name oil for initial fire up and wait till its at operating temperature....check for leaks, and shut it off, drain it all out while hot. Put another new oil filter on and refill it with some good stuff. My buddy Frank fabricated me an airbag for the passenger side rear leaf spring to eliminate the squat it does when launching at the track, its on i just have to fit the air line and shrader valve and i'll post some pictures of it.....very cool, made with a transport truck air ride seat bag! I'll take it very easy on the new motor to break it in,........i'll wait till the end of the driveway when i turn on to the highway before i'll let it go! (about 150 feet) :o :o ;D ;D ;D ;D
one a side note....wish me luck....it's the FIRST engine iv'e ever fully built by myself.
, a BFH fixed the oilpan problem and a grinder solved the counterweight hitting the oilpump problem! ]
You didn't grind part of the crank off did you? That much horsepower an unbalanced crank will be self detonating.
no of course not! I ground off the offending part of the oilpump! ;D
sheeewww. had me worried there.
It lives, the 408 roared to life tonight! It turned over about 4 times, then the battery died (should have put the charger on) I put in on a fast charge, got in about 5 minutes later and it fired right up! No leaks, no "strange engine noises" , my only problem is my tack isn't working ??? I can live with that!(more wiring) Couple more days and it'll be ready for the street, i'll post pictures tomorrow.
Hey 78Pinto,
I was wondering if you ever cleaned up that nasty "VERY UN-SHINEY" crossmember and changed out the Rack&Pinnion???? "Oh... I'll swap out the rack Next time I have the engine out"
Sorry Dude... I think you jinxed yourself on that one.????
From Pintony
Yes i did! I didn't get a new rack, but i did clean it up and paint the crossmember... ;D
some pictures of the completed install. Fixed the tack (wire was disconected) I'll be driving it home tomorrow!
and another. Next i might tackle a complete dash rebuild, pull it out strip it down, paint it, put some nice aftermarket gauges (Autometer) in where the speedo and gas gauge are. I'll start aquiring the gauges over the course of the summer.
Nice job!! Looks like that engine were meant to be in there. For the gauges I know Pintoman did that with his 80 Rally and it looks sweet. Dunno where he got them from, but I know Advance Auto Parts has the gauges that will fit in the openings, as should most other parts stores.
Looks really nice. It does look like it is supposed to be there. Where did you find the radiator at?
The rad is a custom made unit, it is a copy of a Mustang II 302 rad that was in my car. I had them add 2 inches to the hight of it.
Ok, I looked at a lot of different aluminum rads before I bought the one from speedway. And I hadn't seen one like yours, so that explains why. Thanx.
Looks awesome.
The Pinto is finally home! I took it to the local cruise night last night, and my god does it ever have the power ;D When the cruise was done i ran out of gas on the way to the gas station :-[ my wife went and got some gas in a gascan for me.....but i couldn't get the pump to reprime, what a pain in the a$$. I had to cut my fuel pump positive wire and bypass the computer controll and hook it up the the battery direct to keep the pump going long enough for it to prime. Lesson learned, i'll be hooking up a fuel gauge soon! ;D
as long as it was fun. On the bright side you weren't the one who had to walk ;D
I set the idle today.....and got rid of the nasty whistle coming from my TB/upper intake. I used a dremel and champfered all the various openings in the intake and the throttle body, no real easy task but it seemed to work....so it was worth the effort. Time to put some miles on it so i can beat it up at the track soon ;D
i'm having idle issues, i think my EEC (electronic engine control) is having a hard time dealing with my 42lb injectors. The idle surges up and down, it sometimes gets so bad it stalls. I'm considering the stand alone EFI system Megasquirt. I'll keep you'all posted
You checked your IAC ?
yup, i checked the function, and its clean (new) I was told that 42lbers are on the edge of the A9L's capabilities....but i wanted to at least try it.
You would think that those injectors/ecc would work ok. Its not like they cant be over-driven. How is the voltage to them? do you get a drop at all? does the air meter get a voltage drop? I know that with my Green car I had to install a 120 amp alternator to make sure the battery was allways fully charged. If the Batt was low the VAM would not work right.
Iv'e checked it all Brad. I have even tried "clocking" my mass air meter to see if it has a sweet spot. I'm going to give it another try today. I set the idle up again last week and have started it a couple of times since and it seems to be fine, i'll start it up and take it for a spin and see what happens. If it buggers up, it will become Megasquirted.....i'm gettin tired of the factory set up causing problems anyhow! ;D With the Megasquirt, it's a speed density system with no mass air meter....i like that!
Yeah, I know what you mean. Thats why I bailed on my EFI set-up on the green car. It got to Frankenstein for any of the factory stuff to handle even with a chip.
The car runs good now......but i'm just not into it. My heart is really into turbocharging, i'm seriosly considering selling the 408 stroker and building a 302 EFI (roller block) with a single turbo. :o My wife is supportive.....thank god for that, and just wants me to be happy with the car. What do you-all think, am i crazy or should i just do it?
You must have too much money. ::)
Quote from: 78pinto on July 03, 2005, 12:20:41 PM
What do you-all think, am i crazy or should i just do it?
I think everything should have a turbo.
Quote from: dirt track demon on July 03, 2005, 01:00:55 PM
You must have too much money. ::)
oh to be rich! Then.....then you would see a PINTO! Notice i said sell the 408.....to be able to afford to turbo a 302.
Uh huh. You probably have more in the heads of that 408, than I have in my whole ride. ;D
why sell the 408 just turbo that?
well, for starters.... it has a 10.5:1 compression, so it's not really boost friendly (unless i run race gas) it also has 42lb injectors....that is the maximum i can go on the stock electronic engine control without going to a stand alone efi system. It will also create ALOT more heat underhood and i'm having issues with it idling for long periods and staying cool now. The 408 makes alot of power as it is, i can't really use any more (i can't believe i just said that!) without a rollcage and lots of safety equipment, and this is a street car FIRST.....i have to be able to pile the wife and kids in. A 302 with a near stock engine and a 60mm turbo will make just as much power as my 408 in its current configuration (a cam change, and a 150 shot of nitrous would put me in the nines i'm sure) with 106 cubic inches less, better gas mileage and alot better cooling. Most of all.....i love the sound of a spooled turbo in full song ;D :o
Hey Brad, i'm thinking Master Power 62-1 p trim .70 a/r cold side with a .81 a/r hot side. Should be good for 500-600 hp (more than what i need, yet if i ever do decide to wick it up, i can!)Â Â
here is a look at the 62-1 turbo. It is based on the TO4B turbocharger but has a larger compressor wheel and housing. I'm thinking i'll mount it on the passenger side in the fenderwell, so i don't have any problems getting the down pipe (will be 3 1/2 inches) around the steering shaft.
If I personally donated the bolts to hold the turbo on, can I have the first ride?
Quote from: CHEAPRACER on July 08, 2005, 12:51:28 AM
If I personally donated the bolts to hold the turbo on, can I have the first ride?
do you want my wife to kill us both? :o You pay for the engine and you can borrow it for a week! ;D ;D
Quote from: 78pinto on July 08, 2005, 07:20:04 AM
Quote from: CHEAPRACER on July 08, 2005, 12:51:28 AM
If I personally donated the bolts to hold the turbo on, can I have the first ride?
do you want my wife to kill us both? :o You pay for the engine and you can borrow it for a week! ;D ;D
Hmmmmm, maybe not.
Quote from: 78pinto on July 07, 2005, 11:29:36 AM
here is a look at the 62-1 turbo. It is based on the TO4B turbocharger but has a larger compressor wheel and housing. I'm thinking i'll mount it on the passenger side in the fenderwell, so i don't have any problems getting the down pipe (will be 3 1/2 inches) around the steering shaft.
That out to get it done. Before you start your hunt for new parts, go out and buy the August eddition of Hot Rod Magazine and read the " Go fast on Pump Gas" article. Its really great and has a lot of usefull info especially on recommended compression vs. Cam duration.................... ;D
Talked to a Turbo builder and the 62-1 i'm looking at will support 630 hp (at the crank) but i dare not try that kinda power with a 302 block. I'll be re using my 42lb injectors for this build also, but i WILL have to get a custom chip done for it for sure. I have a buyer for the 408 short block at the end of fall, the heads and intake will come off and be for sale if anyone has an interest. The headers will be for sale also, as i'll be fabbing up a set using 5 liter shorty headers as a start. They are Hooker super comps for a 302 but were MODIFIED for a 351w using mustang II motormounts and a C4/C5 tranny.
OK...
Let me see if I have this correctly???
Didn't you just put that 408 in your Pinto???
Dosent it have enough power???
Why would you want a turbo 5.0?
WHATS UP?????????
From LOST AGAIN Pintony 8)
LOL Yup, just put it in......i really want a turbo motor! It has all kinds of power....thats not the problem, i just love the sound of a turbo at full song.....er.....whistle i guess. My wife thinks i'm nuts, and maybe i am, i should have built what i really wanted in the first place and then i would have been happy. Turbos rule! ;D
The shop that has been of great informational help "Turbo City" has said to me many times that the Turbo 5.0 is "SLOW" compared to a HiPo ex. Your 408 version???
They explain that my 4cyl Turbo is a great BOOST in power but the V8 does not benefit as much from the Turbo.
Maybe you should build another Pinto W/ the turbo V8 and leave your 408 alone.
Maybe a 78 C/wagon.
COOL!!!!!
From Pintony
hmmm, turbos will boost any engine just fine provided it can handle the boost.
http://www.turbomustangs.com/feature_cars/craigwmarch.php
check this out, completly stock block and runs 10's sounds great to me! ;D
check out turbo people in n.y. jobey spetter does a lot of f.i. stuff for fords . they tune big dady dwanye drag radial car.and our blower car.
I'm going to do it all myself (except the dyno tune and chip, i have a buddy that does that) some of those turbo places (most really)charge upwards of 3-4 thousand for a custom kit and i can do it for a whole lot less!
big storm last night.....my roof leaked bigtime, $3100 to redo it....turbo project put on hold till fall.....crap! >:(
Hey 78PINTO,
Are you talking about your house roof or garage roof?
Hope you and your family are OK.
From Pintony
house roof.....i don't have a garage :-[ evryone is fine, 12 year old house and the shingles are screwed already!
78Pinto, In another one of your posts you mentioned using a 351w pan from an F150. Looking on ebay the info on that pan lists it as a rear sump pan that doesnt work for a 351w car block. I am confused ???. Do you have any pics, part numbers or other info that I can use to get the correct pan? Thanks
Quote from: gearhead440 on August 11, 2005, 12:10:18 PM
78Pinto, In another one of your posts you mentioned using a 351w pan from an F150. Looking on ebay the info on that pan lists it as a rear sump pan that doesnt work for a 351w car block. I am confused ???. Do you have any pics, part numbers or other info that I can use to get the correct pan? Thanks
Holy crap....your right, where did i say that? You need a 351w pan from a Crown Vic police car or ANY front sump oil pan for a 351w. along with the pickup tube. sorry for any trouble this may have caused. I know my pan came from a Crown Vic police car and was modified. Pre '90 model i believe.
I found the post, i believe i was thinking about a 460 into a fox body car for an F150 pan (460 truck pan fits 460 into '79 to '93 Mustang) Not really sure why i would post that my 351w pan came from a truck??? Thanks for catching that, Jeff
78, thanks for the quick reply and the info :D! I remember you saying in another post that you had used a 351w crown vic pan an d then I read the truck pan. I have a truck pan for a 302 that is rear sump and was curious. The 351w pan I have is front sump and is from a 75 351w passenger car (Montego). It is still in the car but will be pulled very soon. If I can get away without cutting it that would be sweet. Or, I'll weld and piece as necessary, it just takes the most valuable commodity I have: time. Take care, good fortuen and thanks again.
Quote from: 78pinto on August 13, 2004, 12:18:22 PM
new SHINEY Carrera coil-overs on the way.....its going to be the 6 cajillion dollar car if this keeps up! :o? I think my wife may want to divorse me.....
Hey there i sent you a pm but you didn't reply so ill try this ;) I was wondering where and how much did you pay for these coil overs?
I want some SHINEY also !! ;D
sorry about that, i had it set so i didn't get email notification of my pm's..... i changed it now. You can buys these at any rod shop. They cost me about $650 CND dollars
Quote from: 78pinto on August 20, 2005, 08:28:25 AM
sorry about that, i had it set so i didn't get email notification of my pm's..... i changed it now. You can buys these at any rod shop. They cost me about $650 CND dollars
Ok cool. A bit pricey, but i can save up. So what spring rate did you use? I only have a 302 ,as you have the 351 weight.
Thanks for the reply !
;D
i can't remember what spring i got.... they will help you out at the rod shop, they picked it out for me.
I happened upon a roller block 351w for $150 so my turbo motor will remain 351w based, but not likely a stroker of anykind (won't need more cubes) My thoughts thus far are as follows...
'95 351 roller block, bored 30 over (357)
stock crankshaft with ARP main studs and girdle
Scat forged I beam rods and TRW forged dished pistons
Ford motorsport roller "F" cam (.510 .510 lift)
My Windsor Sr. heads
My extrude honed GT40 lower intake with box style upper and 75mm throttle body with 42lb injectors
flipped mustang shorty headers...extended as needed to mate with turbos
TURBOS- i'm leaning towards 2 buick T3's with exhaust A/R of .82 and changing the compressor housing from the nasty Buick ones (.42 A/R) to a set of .60 A/R's from a Ford T3
OR- i might try 2 IHI gm8's from 6.5 GM diesel engines. I have one and would need another. The Buick turbo's i can get 2 of them really cheap.
The T3 turbos will support 300 hp each and the IHI's will support about 400hp each, more than i need for sure ;D TIMELINE- my roof set me back about a year on this, so i'm going to gather parts till fall of 2006 and go for it then i think.
Cool............make sure the turbos are SHINEY............
Quote from: turbopinto72 on September 20, 2005, 06:35:41 PM
Cool............make sure the turbos are SHINEY............
you know it buddy! ;D I'll polish the compressor housings by hand, the turbine housings i'll have ceramic coated along with the hotside piping after they are built. The cold side piping will be powdercoated. I'll get the T3's i think, i'm just making sure the compressor wheel trim is the same from the buick and ford.....i don't want the buick .42A/R I know the ford is a 60 trim, i'm just not 100% sure on the buick.
Hey Jeff,you know I just had to bump this up to the top since we have not heard anything since Sept.,or is this becoming top secret? ;D ;D ;D
no secret.... i'm gathering parts till NEXT winter to do the turbo thing. My roof ate up my play money so i'll have to wait. On a side note, a friend got me a Holset HX40 (new) to put on my car! I've yet to see it but he has it (actually he has 6) They are off Medium to light duty Sterling trucks (they build them in my city) The engines were damaged so they remove some parts and send the engines back, the parts are kept in a warehouse for a year incase they need them, then they are scrapped!! :o Buddy kept 6 and threw out 20 perfectly good turbos :'(
Update, got my NEW Holset HX40 today, i'm VERY happy....price for this $1000+ turbo.....my time to wire a '79 F150 for an E.F.I. 302! They scrapped 34 of these last week, and theres nothing wrong with them, they are new and only had dyno time on them to ensure the engines ran before being shipped (2005 8.3 liter Cummins Diesel) They were sent with the wrong turbos hung on them, so the right ones were sent and put on and they were told to just scrap the 40 wrong ones......$40 000 down the tubes! :o As i said my friend saved 6 of them....what a waste! PICTURES!!!! Yes Brad....i'll make it shiny, hotside will be ceramic coated the compressor side will be polished 8) This turbo will support over 650 horsepower
I took the turbo apart today and dropped the compressor cover and discharge tube off at the polishing place. Next week at least half of the turbo will be shiny! ;D
got it back from the polishers, next, the hotside has to be ceramic coated!
Very Shiny " approved by the Shiny police :police:"
WAIT WAIT WAIT !!!
I thought this was going to be a TWIN TURBO !?!
comon! you cant make 1000 rwhp with just one!! LOL ::)
You might want to read this article on a sn95 mustang making just over that on a 331 stroker TT while running on E85 ethanol
there are some benifits to running it. one of which is its around 2 a gallon and has about 104 octane!! there are some disadvantages though primary being that its hard to come by.
check this link
http://www.turbomustangs.com/techarticles/e85dyno.php (http://www.turbomustangs.com/techarticles/e85dyno.php)
check the video of the dyno run, its wicked. 8)
anyways i admire your work man its top notch and, Id bet your turbo setup will scream!
Robert
thanks, it should turn out ok....i hope! If i do a twin with these....i'd have enough airflow for about 1200-1300hp :o if i could spool them each off 4 cylinders at all (possible with the 408 and smaller turbine housings 12-14cm) but no, it's just a street car......for now! :angel:
Brad, glad the shiny police approve! ;D
Looking really good.
thanks Pete.....its a start! I just took it in to the local turbo shop to have a Garrett T4 style .96 A/R turbine housing machined to fit. Next up will be the 50mm external wastegate.
Ordered my T4 turbo flange, and three 2.5 V band flange kits (for the crossover) and a Tial 46mm wastegate, the turbo is still in the shop getting the Garrett housing machined and fitted. Up next will be a crossover merge and various 2.5 inch mandrel bends along with a 3' 90 degree bend for the turbo flange. In the spring i'll take the car to my buddies shop and build the headers (mustang shorties flipped) crossover, merge and turboflange, then i'll do the compressor side with intercooler. I'll put my headers back on for the summer, and over the summer i'll weld all the joints solid and have everything ceramic coated (including turbo) and then start working on the roller 351w block.l
I have most of the stuff for the mach up now. Just need some mandrel bends and i'll be good to go. The turbo is back from Cherry Turbos, they did an awesome job on the machine work to fit the Garrett T4 .96a/r turbine housing to my Holset HX40! The housing has a 3.5 inch exhaust outlet.....i'm sure it'll be fun finding room for the down pipe :'(
I like the use of the words " its just a street car", with all youve done to this thing so far, that's like saying Evil Kneivel was just some guy who rode a motorcycle! ;)
hmmm i think the motorcycle spent more time riding him! ;D I didn't say it was going to be a cheap street car! ;)
I just bought a Innovate LC-1 wide band O2 sensor for the set up. This will be tied in with my Megasquirt EFI (ordering that this weekend) and will control my air/fuel mixture. The wideband O2 are very accurate and have 5 wire sensors, they are great for tuning any car (carb or EFI) but are very important to any boosted application (turbo, supercharger, NOS...ect) so as not to burn holes in pistons....or take out head gaskets, if the mixture is too lean.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=8038744547&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
This version is all i need, it connects to my EFI controller and i can data log off of that to a laptop and get all the vital info from idle to wide open throttle. There are other wideband O2 setups that are stand alone and have built in gauges and datalogging, they start at about $350
My very large front mount intercooler is on its way, it got held up a Customs for a bit but was finally released today. Once all the parts arrive i'll take a picture of them all piled up on the floor.......my god i have alot of work to do this spring!
Do you need sun glasses to walk in you're cellar?
Looking good that maybe this year you'll have an avatar of the Red Rocket with the front wheels up. :fastcar:
no it won't be till next year! Here is a picture of my dining room table as i assemble my new ECM (megasquirt) when i started......the table was FULL of those little packets containing electronic parts!
:what:
LOL, its an electronic engine controller (like Fast, Big stuff 3, DFI ect) its VERY cheap but you have to assemble it. Here is the link, Brad, this would be great on the Green beast. http://www.megasquirt.info/
I've also been following & considering the MS but I want to know if it's a race only application or if it can be reliable for everyday use. Keep us posted.
Jeff, my bigger concern is your wife lets you solder on the kitchen table???
Quote from: CHEAPRACER on March 09, 2006, 10:35:39 PM
I've also been following & considering the MS but I want to know if it's a race only application or if it can be reliable for everyday use. Keep us posted.
Yes its very reliable, just have to tinker with the tune till you get it right. (get the wideband O2 with it.......it will really help with the final tuning.)
Quote from: turbopinto72 on March 09, 2006, 11:26:43 PM
Jeff, my bigger concern is your wife lets you solder on the kitchen table???
ummmm YEA! If i f@#k it up.....she thinks i have to buy her a new one :laugh:
megasquirt is built and it works!
Great!
Are you going to polish the box?
i thought about it.....but i decided Brad will not be crawling up under my dash to see it so i don't think i will ;D
Quote from: 78pinto on March 18, 2006, 04:22:37 PM
i thought about it.....but i decided Brad will not be crawling up under my dash to see it so i don't think i will ;D
Um.........I think you have better take pictures of that so I can certify it " shiny" by the Shiny Police........ :police:................ ;D
I bought another megasquirt set up off evilbay......i'm going to assemble and sell it, got a real good deal!
Hello 78pinto,
I would like to read more about the mega squirt F.I. unit.
Can you LMK where to find info??
Thanks,
from Pintony
Here you go Tony http://www.megasquirt.info/
Quote from: 78pinto on March 25, 2006, 03:34:50 PM
Here you go Tony http://www.megasquirt.info/
Thank You,
From Pintony
I hope the red rocket comes to carlisle, im looking forward to seeing this all done. Cant wait to see Tony's purple pinto, too.
hope to be there....if i can use the inlaws truck to tow it up there with!
Just got my new upper intake today, Downs box upper.....all ported and powder coated red (very shiny :police:). This will help me when it comes time to put boost to the engine.
Hey Jeff,that car is getting brighter(shiny) everytime you put a new piece on!!!!!!
its all Brads fault....damn shiny police :police: ;D
Quote from: 78pinto on March 30, 2006, 02:11:53 PM
its all Brads fault....damn shiny police :police: ;D
I cant help myself............. :police:
For anyone who might be interested: I'll be selling my 408, complete or short block (i'll tear it down and redo all bearings so it will be fresh) I'll sell it with everything except the oilpan and pickup, including my EFI wiring loom and EEC IV (fuel injection loom and computer) Loom will be labeled for EASY hook up. Look for post in parts for sale area for more details. Here is the link, i know its not cheap.....but it comes with everything (you'll need Mustang II motormounts, an oil pan ect) including the '74& up 351 headers that have been ceramic coated.
http://www.fordpinto.com/smf/index.php?topic=4351.0
As of now, i'm waiting for the local wrecking yard to pull the engine i'm going to be using for the new build out of a '95 full sized van. Its not shiny at all! Its a roller 351 Windsor and after teardown and machining (will be shiny then) will be the starting point for my 357ci turbo motor. I'll be using a Scat crank and rods, probe forged piston, Ford motorsport "F" cam and either my Dart Windsor Sr. heads or a set of AFR 185's depending if my heads are sold with my 408 stroker. I'm looking for about 500hp to the wheels on pump gas, and about 650hp with C16 and a increase in boost pressure and timing. The stock 351w block is good to about 750-800hp with good bottom end parts (including main girdle) as long as the RPM's are kept under 6500. The megasquirt is done and i just finished the new loom for it last night. For anyone wanting to turbo a 302, the block is weak and will crack around the 500 to 550hp range....even sooner if the tune is not right (detonation) see picts below.
OUCH................
i think they can fix it....a tube of JB weld and all will be well! :coolrasta:
Hey 78pinto,
Thanks for showing your crack! ;D
From Pintony
built the other megasquirt, its for sale if anyone is interested.
My junkyard $150 351w F4TE roller block is in at the machine shop getting cleaned, and machined. I bought an Eagle forged 383 stroker kit last week..balanced and updraded to L19 rod bolts (didn't need to but it was the last pre balanced kit they had) the rotating assebly is now good to 1200hp! :o too bad my block will crap out at about the 750hp mark! For heads, i'm leaning towards AFR 205's with 1.7 roller rockers and a Ford motorsport F303 cam (giving about a .550 lift with the 1.7 rockers) The wife still loves me, but this is my last engine she says....so i better do it right!
took a picture of the pile of parts i have gathered for this falls 383 stroker turbo build. I'm considering going to blow thru carb set up.
OOOOOO!!!!! shiney
thanks! Here is a current picture under the hood
Jeff, why do you have a nice shiney tool box sitting in the middle of your engine???? :o :o ;)
Brad...its a pinto, they break down....no other place to carry tools! ;)
:text_yb_rofl: I think I just pee'd.
the shortblock is being built now, i bought a Torker II 351w intake (low profile) to get ready for the carbed blow through set up on the VERY built 383 stroker. My goal is to be able to fit it under a stock pinto hood...or have a small scoop if nessasary....time will tell. I'll be using an electric water pump for room, moving my electric fan to the back of the rad, leaving room for my intercooler in front of the rad (i'm hoping).
Also, my 408 is for sale....i'll tear it down and go through it, i'll sell it complete with intake injectors and computer and loom, or part it out if i can sell the shortblock. Headers will be included in the sale of the complete engine. asking $6000 for the whole thing!!
I sold the 408 sunday, motor is coming out this week....kind of bitter sweet. A little earlier than i wanted, ending my Pinto driving season, but at least i got it sold. Ironically....a fellow on this site bought it! He found the for sale post through a search engine, and joined so he could contact me to buy it! It will reside in an '87 mustang in New Orleans LA. and be topped with a carb.
Quote from: 78pinto on August 14, 2006, 11:19:51 PM
I sold the 408 sunday, motor is coming out this week....kind of bitter sweet. A little earlier than i wanted, ending my Pinto driving season, but at least i got it sold. Ironically....a fellow on this site bought it! He found the for sale post through a search engine, and joined so he could contact me to buy it! It will reside in an '87 mustang in New Orleans LA. and be topped with a carb.
Just watch for the scammers.
talked on the phone, payed deposit by paypal....all is good! Thanks for looking out for me just the same!
Hey 78, you should have room for the rear mounted fan if you run something like a CSR remote mount water pump ( if you can find room) . Just make a plate for the stock timing cover. Then tap at least 3/4 NPT into the locations over the inlet ports and use at least -12 maybe -16 type line from the pump.
Trouble is that you loose the heater ,( not that you'll need it with all the heat from that engine.! LOL :lol:)
Thats kind of what i did on my setup. although i bought an ol mechanical fuel injection cover from the 60s for the SBF.
After all that you should gain about 4 inches over the stock water pump??? Whada ya think?
Heres a fairly current pic of my setup. It has allowed me to mount 2 10 inch fans behind the radiator and still keep some room in front of it. ( Hope it works well for me!)
nice looking setup! What headers are you running? I'll look into it for sure, the heater box has been out for 20 years! Do you have a better picture of the old '60's fuelie cover?
Thanks, its been way too much money (for my income, 2 kids and living in SOCAL ) and too much time but i think it will be worth it.
Csr has a plate that already MIGHT work, but it has oval holes in it which might prevent the tapping of a 3/4 npt. Maybe a 1. npt might work though but im not sure.
(http://www.csr-performance.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/csr_905PLATE_T.jpg)
If so for braided line youd have to use AN16 $$Big bucks$$ Theres always EBAY. LOL . I picked up the AN12 lines with the fittings for $65 on ebay. Used Nascar Stuff.
As for the pump id use either a CSR remote OR a Meziere remote. I think the Meziere has some higher flow rates ,but ive heard people running CSRs with no issues on the regular engine mounted ones.
As for the headers they are FULLY modified nos Mustang II Blackjack/Cyclone headers.
I re-routed one tube around the steering shaft (cable) and then moved another tube that that one interfered. Shortend up the header so they wouldn't hang so low, then re-welded some new collectors on. The pass side I could have left alone but it was pointing to the trans, and #3 was kinked severely. So i replaced #3 and then shortend the header,and repointed all the tubes straight back and put on the new collector. WHEW!! I shouldve just built some new ones from mandrel bends in retrospect and also have gotten a mig gas kit for my welder instead of my sheilded wire , but i got it done none-the-less.
Lets see. $250+ shipping for the headers, another $75 in bends, $35 for the collectors, 6 weekends, another $200 for coating, OUCH couldve almost built new 1 5/8 stainless ones for that. (well, except i cant weld the stainless with my welder)
Well were gettin off topic here LOL , Cant wait to see some layouts of your turbo in the engine compartment!!
Im thinking........ HMMMMMMM.!!!!
good work! Looks awesome. What part number is your pan, i need a larger one also. thanks
I have the 289-302 version but here is the 351w version Copynpasted from the Milodon website.
Pan Capacity is 8 Qts. Plus Filter -
83/4" Sump Depth, 9" Sump Length, 11" Sump Width
(http://www.milodon.com/oilpans/30927_small.gif)
http://www.milodon.com/main.htm (http://www.milodon.com/main.htm)
351W 30926
Oil Pump and Pick-Up Required:
Pick-Up 18365
Oil Pump Shaft 22560
Oil Pan Gasket 40350
Windage Tray 32215
Tray Install Kit 81167
oxy/acetylene, an '0' or '00' tip with the pressure tuned down and a #7 mild steel copper coated rod in 3/32" dia. will last as long as an other weld and will not need nearly as much grinding
good tip! :).
If i was to do it again, id use a tig welder. Just need the $$$$ for even a cheap one. OR what i couldve done is tacked it together and then paid a pro to tig it.
Hey jeff, ( may i call you jeff? LOL)
I was looking through the old posts and man youve spent some time and $$ on this.
Can i ask about the tubular re-enforcment in the engine compartment? what is it attached to? Just the firewall? or do you have a cage now? Did you notice a big improvement in stiffness? Were they made up ?Did you bend them up yourself or were they a bought and modified peice? I know 20 questions. :lol:
Oh just to finish my header pics ( bragging lol :lol: ) i was noticing the lack of ground clearance on the headers you used to run.The reason i went through all the trouble to do my headers that way is because of ground clearance. See what you think.
yes you can use my name lol! Good thing my wife loves the car also or i'd be in big trouble with the money i spend/spent! The tubes are just atached to the firewall, i put them in when i cut out the inner fenders to give the front end a little more stiffness, they seem to work fine. No roll cage, too hard for the kids to get in and out, and the insurance company frowns on them. I made them myself with a cheap pipe bender. I don't notice my headers hitting the ground at all, i have adjustable coilovers in the front and good shocks and thats half the battle right there. I also don't drive like a wildman on rough roads or over R/R tracks. You have plenty of room there i think, should be no problems with those headers.
Holy Buh-jesus Jeff!!!! Keep on Pinto-izing and will have a fly that thing instead of driving it!!!
ahhh, you only live once right!? ;D
Quote from: 78pinto on August 20, 2006, 12:58:07 PM
yes you can use my name lol! Good thing my wife loves the car also or i'd be in big trouble with the money i spend/spent!
well now i envy your car and your marraige. :-\
My wife hates the car. >:( I shouldve married someone who understands the hobbie and what tinkering with cars can mean to some men. ( like us ). If i had a dollar for every fight that came about from the, car id be a millonare.
hell once this thing is physicaly running im probably never going to be " allowed " to spend another dime on it. SIGH !!
You got a couple of gems on your hands there. Hope you know how lucky you are.
shot you shoud hear the crap i hear about it i sold the car 3 years ago and bought it back last year from the same guy.can we say world war 3
My wife and the Galaxie 500 did not get along to well together at first. Now she says she wants to cruise around in it. Should I be jealous??? Ha!!! Ya wanna see a woman hate a car get one of those old caddys with the two big bullets sticking out in front of it. Ha!!!!!!
High_Horse
The 408 is out...rebuilt and sold, my season is done. On a high note, the wife (she IS great ;D) and i decided the Pinto won't be out till it's completely done, body, paint, engine, interior, ect. Whenever it is done ...is when it'll see the light of day again. We are figuring 12-15K in investment (Canadian money) and a summertime completion next year hopefully. Stay tuned!
Are you sure we coulndt trade our wifes for a while while im working on my project ??????
Huh? PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE???
:ih8u:
LOL just kidding!
Hey thats ultra cool! NOW you know you wont get away for a whole winter without posting pictures and showing us some ideas you have concerning how your going to route the turbo plumming, intercooler , new color of the car . interior ideas EtC ETC And dont forget the shiny rule !! LOL.
NEED INPUT!!
NEED THE INFO!!
Have fun !!
(seriously though does your wife have a sister???? LOL )
yes she has a sister....hates cars though... I'll post pictures as i go, not 100% sure on what i'm going to do yet...but twin turbos has entered my mind a few times. Maybe have to sell off my single setup. I'm also considering a ladder bar set up.
Heres the CSR plate i was talking about for the possible Remote water pump setup. Its used but has the round holes for tapping the NPT threads . What size i dont know. But its chreap and red!
(http://i11.ebayimg.com/06/i/08/2f/8d/06_1.JPG)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/5-0-302-351w-CSI-CSR-ELECTRIC-WATER-PUMP-BACKING-PLATE_W0QQitemZ140024352072QQihZ004QQcategoryZ33604QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
How thick is that plate? It looks like it is setup for 1/2 pipe threads but even if its 1/4 thick that is going to only leave you with a couple of threads in the plate.
Jake
It would be more than that at 1/4. 1/2 14 NPT has a thread every .071 thou.Thats about 3.5 threads if you want to get technical. But i would used 3/4 npt and make it larger.. If it only had a couple Thats all you need. Being a tapered thread as NPT's are, they just get tighter the farther you thread anyways. Not like straight threads where the depth of the thread has to be at least 1x the DIA of thread.
How much pressure we talking about holding anyways? 18-20 PSI??? not like were looking at holding 300 PSI.
Robert
Hey i just realized its in CANADA!! HMMM Sounds like and omen here!! LOL
Quote from: 71hotrodpinto on September 02, 2006, 10:00:40 AM
It would be more than that at 1/4. 1/2 14 NPT has a thread every .071 thou.Thats about 3.5 threads if you want to get technical. But i would used 3/4 npt and make it larger.. If it only had a couple Thats all you need. Being a tapered thread as NPT's are, they just get tighter the farther you thread anyways. Not like straight threads where the depth of the thread has to be at least 1x the DIA of thread.
How much pressure we talking about holding anyways? 18-20 PSI??? not like were looking at holding 300 PSI.
Robert
Robert,
True about the threads if you use a taper pipe. Which I would imaging he would. But to get the correct tightness I would want a few more threads than 3.5. It actually works out to 2.7 when you factor in the lead for the thread unless you want to fight it. It also not just the pressure buy the vibration from the motor with the lines hanging off that will cause more problems. The ones I make here are 3/8 thick on the thinest ones we make and we machine in a raised area for the threads that equals 1" think. I think you are tempting fate. I would have someone weld a bung on those holes before they get tapped.
Jake
i've also decided i'm going to order a new hood from http://www.up22.com/amx68.htm when the time comes, i'll post how it looks and the quality of it when it arrives.
I'm pretty sure most of the Pinto is now in my basement....and my wife is ok with this! Front end is off, dash is out..stripped down, sanded and ready for paint, firewall is partially cut out, interior is stripped out....my god what have i done?!
more from last post
and still more pics..
Geez Jeff, you might as well front half it, you have most the work done. Then buy a one piece front end and tilt it foreward. ;D ;D :devil:
at this point....i might as well throw a tube chassis in it!
Yeah, might as well, you have all winter to build it....... :angel:
Can't, we will be building a chassis for my buddies car...only has one frame jig....maybe next years project!! ::)
I split this thread at the twin turbo build. The build is now in this thread
http://www.fordpinto.com/smf/index.php?topic=6073.0 (http://www.fordpinto.com/smf/index.php?topic=6073.0)