Author Topic: My Pinto...er....Bobcat....err....sumffin....lol (Read 24504 times)

Rob3865 · « **Reply #90 on:** May 16, 2014, 06:30:54 PM »

This is actually number two. lol

Reeves1 · « **Reply #91 on:** May 17, 2014, 04:28:42 AM »

I've lost track of how many times I've had an engine / trans in/out of my car !

I've read on other forums about people wondering how to do it without a few extra hands.
Cannot help but wonder if they have some special challenge..... . I have never needed any help, and we do this with smaller cars !

Rob3865 · « **Reply #92 on:** May 17, 2014, 04:14:56 PM »

It actually fits quite well. I am hoping for a minimum of work with the BFH.

Rob3865 · « **Reply #93 on:** May 21, 2014, 05:36:42 PM »

I knew this wasn't gonna be a drop in, but I was kinda hopin to avoid doing something drastic to the firewall and transmission tunnel. That ain't happenin. The stud on the driver's side that holds the HVAC box tat sticks out just above the transmission tunnel contacts the intake manifold and stops the engine from going back as far as it needs to. I am sure even with it gone, the firewall would do the same, so, I have to remove the HVAC box and reshape the firewall in that area. Obviously, I will also have to reshape the HVAC box as well. I was under the impression though that the 74 and up cars required no mods to the firewall or transmission tunnel. This has certainly proved that rumor incorrect. Nothing a little time and more work will not take care of.

Rob3865 · « **Reply #94 on:** May 21, 2014, 08:28:48 PM »

Did some quick lookin and here's all the proof you need. Top is my Bobcat firewall, bottom is Mustang II V8. Different as night and day. That's ok. I'll get r done. Just a little more time is all.

Rob3865 · « **Reply #95 on:** June 13, 2014, 09:34:33 AM »

I see this went over like a lead balloon.

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #96 on:** June 13, 2014, 09:46:10 AM »

So, any progress??..

bbobcat75 · « **Reply #97 on:** June 13, 2014, 11:41:47 AM »

hey rob was that the bobcat that was on craigslist like about a year ago?!?!

Reeves1 · « **Reply #98 on:** June 14, 2014, 05:18:03 AM »

Quote

The stud on the driver's side that holds the HVAC box tat sticks out just above the transmission tunnel contacts the intake manifold and stops the engine from going back as far as it needs to

Remove it & use a bolt from engine compartment side ?

Rob3865 · « **Reply #99 on:** June 14, 2014, 07:43:39 AM »

I wish the heater box stud was ALL that was keeping the engine from going in. The transmission tunnel is simply not large enough. I am going to have to remove the HVAC box, cut a section of the firewall out above the HVAC box lower studs and make a new section that is both larger in radius at the top of the transmission tunnel and further back into the tunnel. I will also have to reshape the lower front part of the HVAC box to accommodate the new firewall shape. It's really a pretty big change and I cannot understand how anyone could ever say that the 74 and up Pinto and Bobcat use the same firewall as the Mustang II, because they certainly do not. This is exactly the type work I was hoping to avoid by getting the later car. If I have a weak point with working on cars, it is body work and fabrication. I am crummy at it and it is very intimidating to me. I have not done anymore in it, because we have had other things happen that combined have really knocked the wind out of my sails. I may even have to consider selling it all. It all depends on the next 90 or so days and what happens. It will cost me nothing to make the cuts in the firewall and I plan to get that done, but it's difficult to do anything when the life is sucked out of you. I am really growing so tired of bad things happening to my wife and I. Really ready for good things, but they ain't happenin.

Rob3865 · « **Reply #100 on:** June 14, 2014, 12:28:32 PM »

Quote from: bbobcat75 on June 13, 2014, 11:41:47 AM

hey rob was that the bobcat that was on craigslist like about a year ago?!?!

It may have been. I found it on CL earlier this year. It was in Greenville, SC.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #101 on:** June 14, 2014, 01:09:57 PM »

You have a the small bell / flywheel (157 tooth) etc ?

My white 72 has very little firewall changes.

Sorry about the other stuff.

If you were near by I'd help out !

Rob3865 · « **Reply #102 on:** June 15, 2014, 08:15:17 AM »

It's a T5 bellhousing, but the bellhousing flange is VERY minimal just the same as the rustang II bellhousing. I have a friend that has a rustang II bell and we compared them. Even without the bellhousing or transmission, the engine will not go back far enough to land in the mount brackets. It's close, but no cigar. The mouth of the transmission tunnel is simply not big enough. I'll get it done somehow. I appreciate the offer. I would take you up on it too, because I have no one around here who will help.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #103 on:** June 16, 2014, 07:05:29 AM »

Even with M ll mounts they have to be mounted farther ahead than stock ones. I thought.

Using a T-5 trans ?
Measure from mounts to shifter, see where it lines up to go through floor / shifter hole.

Looked back in your pictures , yup , M ll mounts.
I'll bet all will work out if you bolt the frame mounts to the rubber engine mounts.
Put engine & trans in & the engine where you want it.
That will be the "new" location for the frame mounts.

Rob3865 · « **Reply #104 on:** June 16, 2014, 05:38:38 PM »

Nope. Tried that already. I am tellin you, the trans tunnel is simply too small at the mouth. I couldn't believe it either, because all I have read is the exact opposite. I am going to have to do just as much to this one as I did my 72. Oh and the shifter location is going to be almost in the exact right place once I get it where the engine will go back far enough.

Pinturbo75 · « **Reply #105 on:** June 16, 2014, 06:20:21 PM »

I have a v8 bell and clutch setup on my 75 and I had to do minimal modification to the tunne... the only spot that I did anything to was at the very top around the 11 and 1 oclock positions... and I used a hammer and it took about 3 minutes to do what was needed.... only need to move the first 1 to 2 inches going into the tunnel and it only needs about a half inch of clearance..... ... at least in my case..

Rob3865 · « **Reply #106 on:** June 16, 2014, 09:18:23 PM »

I understand. And I've read where people did minimal or no work at all. But look at the pictures I posted comparing mine to the rustangII firewall. That's a pretty big difference across the top.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #107 on:** June 17, 2014, 05:48:05 AM »

Quote from: Rob3865 on June 16, 2014, 05:38:38 PM

Nope. Tried that already. I am tellin you, the trans tunnel is simply too small at the mouth. I couldn't believe it either, because all I have read is the exact opposite. I am going to have to do just as much to this one as I did my 72. Oh and the shifter location is going to be almost in the exact right place once I get it where the engine will go back far enough.

I think that may be at least part of the problem ? Trying to go too far back ?
From what I've read on here, it should be about 1.5" ahead of the original ?
Don't know what else I can suggest.......

Rob3865 · « **Reply #108 on:** June 17, 2014, 11:29:31 AM »

I've read the same thing. But the mount brackets I have are the rustang II, the mounts I have are the rustang II. I have the brackets bolted on the correct sides. I am just guesstimating on the shifter location, since I cannot get it back far enough. Now, if I swapped the brackets from side to side, that would move it all forward, BUT it would also offset the engine the wrong way and interfere the exhaust with the steering shaft. I have researched it high and low and from what I have seen, I have the brackets mounted on the correct sides. My only other option at this point is cutting the firewall. I would love to find out I have done something wrong and it will fit as is. But so far, no one has stepped up with pictures I asked for regarding the factory mount bracket placement, so I have to go on what I have done.

Rob3865 · « **Reply #109 on:** June 17, 2014, 11:56:08 AM »

I will add this......the oil pan (factory rustangII) seems to contact the rack unit before the mounts ever line up with the brackets. So, you may be onto something about me trying to install it too far back. But without a known reference about which side is correct for which bracket, I have nothing to go on. I guess I can simply swap sides with the brackets and try again......but I am almost certain they will not interchange. I could be wrong. At any rate, I believe that would shift the engine too far to the driver's side. The V6 brackets had the long bracket on the driver's side and I simply installed the V8 brackets the same way.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #110 on:** June 17, 2014, 01:36:02 PM »

The stock Pinto driveshaft should fit if the engine is in the right spot. If it's too long the engine is too far back. Too short, the engine needs to go farther rearward.

Rob3865 · « **Reply #111 on:** June 17, 2014, 02:08:17 PM »

Even with a T5 and an 8"? That will be a good gage if so. I hadn't thought of that.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #112 on:** June 17, 2014, 02:47:52 PM »

Quote from: Rob3865 on June 17, 2014, 02:08:17 PM

Even with a T5 and an 8"? That will be a good gage if so. I hadn't thought of that.

Yeah, either use a T5 or C4 yoke & you're good to go. The length of the shaft is fine regardless of rear axles. The shifter should end up a couple inches forward of the stocker & will require trimming but it's normal.

Rob3865 · « **Reply #113 on:** June 17, 2014, 03:54:50 PM »

Well that's good to know. Thanks. I had already run into the C3 yoke difference. I got a C4/T5 yoke on the shaft now with a conversion joint, so the drive shaft is ready. Does anyone know for SURE which side these motor mount brackets go on?

Reeves1 · « **Reply #114 on:** June 18, 2014, 05:03:34 AM »

Don't know which side the long one goes on , for sure.

I measured the ones I had & knew I'd never use them , so gave them away.

We "talked" some in this topic about the mounts as well: http://www.fordpinto.com/general-help/mll-frame-mounts/

Rob3865 · « **Reply #115 on:** June 18, 2014, 10:51:28 AM »

That was a good discussion. Tell you what I am gonna do. I think I was mistaken in that thread when I said the brackets will only bolt on one way. I think they will swap sides. I am gonna do that and try the fit again. It will be a little bit, because it's hot as hades here, and I don't fair well in the heat. bear with me and I'll report back.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #116 on:** June 19, 2014, 05:11:40 AM »

Try both ways.
Check drive line alignment both ways (ie: angles at u-joints) all the way to the diff yoke.

If being off set to one side or the other is not liked for any reason, make a new frame mount. Not hard to do. I could post pictures of some I have here if it will help ?

Rob3865 · « **Reply #117 on:** June 23, 2014, 01:39:51 AM »

I just find it impossible to believe there's no one here running the stock frame brackets that cannot at least tell me which side they go on. I know if I did, I would be bustin my hump to help somebody in my situation.

Reeves1 · « **Reply #118 on:** June 23, 2014, 04:58:21 AM »

Dianne has an M 2. Shoot her a msg and ask her ........

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #119 on:** June 24, 2014, 07:48:39 PM »

I sold my V8 car 2 years ago or I would look.

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Author Topic: My Pinto...er....Bobcat....err....sumffin....lol (Read 24504 times)