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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

valve cover gasket replaced and leaking

Started by ToniJ1960, January 06, 2015, 04:52:25 PM

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amc49

The world calls and one has to answer...........just finishing going through a rough patch but all is well.

I never really had any trouble with the black rubber gaskets Felpro used to put out.

Regardless, the silicone ones will far outlast the oldschool plain rubber ones when used in high temps. One just has to remember that you don't squish them all out of shape which they do pretty easy. Why the limit stop type bolts and stands were created. People just don't get it that you don't smush the daylights out of them like older ones. The proper bolts set the crush height and anything beyond that is a mistake.

dick1172762

They reason blue rubber gaskets get negative postings is because about 40 years ago the gasket company's came out with black rubber gaskets that were as bad as no gasket at all. They were pure JUNK. None of the features that the new blue gaskets have. As Paul Harvey used to say, "now you know the rest of the story".
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dga57

Welcome back amc49!  Was beginning to get concerned about you.  Hope all is okay in your corner of the world.


Dwayne :)
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

amc49

Cork won't last as long as the blue rubber one, the cork content (part is rubber too) cooks to crumble with emission engine heat. Why the blue gasket was made, it's silicone just like the RTV and takes much higher temperatures before failing. The covers have no way of knowing what the gaskets are made of. You only have to pay attention to whether or not spacers are used and if so then you only torque down lightly to a solid hit and stop, any torque past that actually deforms the gasket and damages cover. It absolutely will not improve sealing either, generally making it worse.

FYI most 6 mm. bolts will pull threads at like 10 ft.lbs. if you are in aluminum. The valve covers will seal fine at 6 if they are flat and no dimples.

I ran into many cork gaskets when at the parts store that were old enough to crack when they were flexed, they flat will sell them as perfectly good to you in a second.

I had an AMC six cylinder once that I could get cork gasket (only one available back then) on correctly and no leak at all but the under cover temps were so high the gasket cooked to hard as rock in maybe 10 months to a year. I had to change them every time I turned around and not a cheap one either. That was when I turned my back on cork if at all possible. Trick with silicone rubber is you MUST guarantee bone dry both surfaces at install time, if the slightest oil film remains even after wiping flats down the leak has an established leak path and begins to leak pretty quick. Oil slithers under rubber easy as spit.

OEM does not use cork at all anymore, it is considered too low a quality and does not last. Pretty much some sort of silicone rubber in every gasket out there now. The engines run too hot for cork, normal temps now are around 220 degrees rather than the old school 180.

ToniJ1960

 Thanks :) anyway I just snugged them so they wont come loose and its fine so far

76hotrodpinto

He meant the shaft size of the bolt. I think. 10 mil bolt head and 6 mil shaft.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

ToniJ1960

Quote from: fastfred on January 15, 2015, 06:18:50 PM
As a general rule a very max. of 12 foot lbs for a 6mm bolt which is only just smaller in diameter than a 1/4 inch.  Try 8-10 foot lbs. If the gasket seems to be spreading then back off a bit as this will create leaks.

However, take a good look at the blue rubber gasket. It has a couple of grooves that it has to align with those on the valve cover itself on the roof part of the cover. ie behind where the cam sprocket is.

It worked well for me.

Fred

They are 10mm on mine

ToniJ1960

 thanks Reeves feels good to have y Pinto happy again and people not laughing at it because it looked like it was a bbq.

Reeves1


ToniJ1960

 Well its fixed :) cork gasket no sealer anywhere and not a drop now.

I got the cover off turned it over the gasket looked super. I looked the bottom of the cover over  and saw a little dip in one side of the flat part. The holes dimpled big time, but the front left corner or the one that foes on the pass side, the corner was tipped up.  Ilooked it over and thought about it. The corner was tipped up but at the edge the rail was lower.

I think someone tried to take out the dimples before and bent that corner up then tried to fix it and got the edge of the rail on  the outside bent down. I used the edge of a finished 1x2 across the length of it working slow tapping lightly/ I got it real falt got the dimples out, you could see them from 3 feet away.

Not seeping a bit. I ran it and checked with paper towels all around.

ToniJ1960

 I know I know, I really do appreciate everyone helping. I laughed at the fisher person part too. But I have a coupon anyway for o reilly I dont think ill spend much this time doing it myself, and I know in the back of my mind it may have to be redone.

So many people say so many different things even someone here said the blue rubber ones are junk.

I worked in consumer electronic servicing for so long, and studied some electronic engineering in college and out, my brain is weird

One thing works great for one person not another. The other thing the same. I have a feeling theres more involved.

My brain wont quit wondering why that gasket didnt seal. Im going to do it myself this time get a good look at everything.

Clean everything well, bring the valve cover inside where it will be warmer, check it to be sure its flat and the bolt holes arent dimpled.

Now with it being a little warmer inside the cork may not be so likely to crack or split when I put it on the vc. I think just a little permatex at both sides of where it bends to go up around the cam, 1/4 on each side of the bend, both sides of the front of the gasket. Then set it on tighten the blots gradually.

Worst case ill be able to say no more cork and get the rubber one. Not likely going to get a $50 one now. Time I have money not so much have too many other places it needs to go right now.

Just looking at this as experience. Please dont take it the wrong way.

dick1172762

What don't you understand when we tell you that the cork gaskets are JUNK and should never be used? No one has posted on here telling you to use the cork gaskets. We try to help you and you still want to use the cork gaskets. I'm not trying to bad mouth you, just trying to help.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

ToniJ1960

 Will do if the cork doesnt give good results when I try it. The guy I had do it didnt check the cover for dimpled holes or anything just threw it on and left. Well he ran th engine but not long enough to get it hot (live and learn). I plant to be super observant and give my instincts a shot.

fastfred

As a general rule a very max. of 12 foot lbs for a 6mm bolt which is only just smaller in diameter than a 1/4 inch.  Try 8-10 foot lbs. If the gasket seems to be spreading then back off a bit as this will create leaks.

However, take a good look at the blue rubber gasket. It has a couple of grooves that it has to align with those on the valve cover itself on the roof part of the cover. ie behind where the cam sprocket is.

It worked well for me.

Fred

Reeves1

Never seen any TQ used on pan or valve covers.
Just snug them up to 2+ lbs. by hand/feel.

You can find specs on line, listing anywhere from 25 INCH lbs to 2 lbs - 10 lbs.

ToniJ1960

 So many different opinions.
Cork oh its the best all I ever use.No they dont work dontbelong on a car.
Get the blue rubber one they work great. No they dont work dont get them.

Cork is best for stamped metal covers, rubber for cast covers.


Use cork and rtv or the right stuff or hi tack  on one side  to stick it to the vc. Use rtv on both sides. Dont use rtv.

I think since Im going to do it myself and not pay someone to do it wrong again, Im going with cork and rtv on one side. Make sure the vc is flat take out the dimples if needed. Let the rtv partially set, hope it will be just slighly pliable to take any gaps at the corners out when I reinstall it and dont overtightn it.

Anyone know if o reilly will rent a torque wrench from their rent tools?

If this doesnt work ill try another approach. Im going to look it all over carefully how the vc sits on the head where the bolts are, watch carefully for any sign of the cork trying to crack any places etc.


Maybe tomorrow the smoke is almost as bad as before the new gasket even went on.


Will update.

Anyone with bolt head sizes for the vc is the tightening sequence crucial etc.



76hotrodpinto

Quote from: Pinturbo75 on January 12, 2015, 05:12:06 PM
ive found the blue rubber gaskets to be garbage.... got 3 hangin on the wall right now....anyone want them???? they squeeze out of the valve cover... and the metal sleeves in them mutilate the aluminum covers.... you want a great gasket????
get one from a ranger pickup truck.... 97 and up... theyre black with a metal core.. reusable over and over..... and they don't leak....they run about 50 bucks at ford.... but almost free at the junkyard....


That sounds like the way to go. So it's a factory only part?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

dick1172762

FEL PRO VS50043R-1 is the #  $15 on e-bay
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Pinturbo75

ive found the blue rubber gaskets to be garbage.... got 3 hangin on the wall right now....anyone want them???? they squeeze out of the valve cover... and the metal sleeves in them mutilate the aluminum covers.... you want a great gasket????
get one from a ranger pickup truck.... 97 and up... theyre black with a metal core.. reusable over and over..... and they don't leak....they run about 50 bucks at ford.... but almost free at the junkyard....
75 turbo pinto trunk, megasquirt2, 133lb injectors, bv head, precision 6265 turbo, 3" exhaust,bobs log, 8.8, t5,, subframe connectors, 65 mm tb, frontmount ic, traction bars, 255 lph walbro,
73 turbo pinto panel wagon, ms1, 85 lb inj, fmic, holset hy35, 3" exhaust, msd, bov,

fastfred

Part number on Advance Autos is    VS 500-43 R-1.

No gasket compound needed as previously posted by dick1172762 is correct.

If you register with Adv. Autos you get regular 20% off from emails from them.

Cheers...Fred

76hotrodpinto

Quote from: fastfred on January 10, 2015, 11:51:15 AM
I had the very same issue just over week ago.  The brand new cork gasket split at the front corner when tightening down causing a bad leak that ran down the engine causing a lot of smoke when hot!   Tried some gasket compound but it didn't work.

I went to Advance Autos and bought a blue colored rubber gasket, twice the price but no more leaks.  I mentioned to the staff at the store the issue.  They said the cork gaskets have issues.

Get the rubber one, twice the price but much better.  They also have a metal 8 metal inserts where the bolts go through.


Got a part number that?
Fred
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

pinto_one

Yep I know the old cork gaskets are becoming a thing of the past but are still out there, most people do not know that these gaskets may have been sitting on the shelf for years in some warehouse , they dry out and crack very easy , for some cars that is all that is left around to use is old stock, no more being made , like the feeling trying to put on new (dried up ) valve cover gaskets on a Studebaker , yep they shrink , and they break when you try to pull them over the lips, one old trick was to soak them in hot water , 50/50 chance it might work, the 2.3 is not so bad, but the old German 2.0 with that puzzle end corner would give you fits some times, and still leak , still remember trying to use that new dried gasket , yep it broke,  :o
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

dick1172762

RTV or anything else is not only not needed, it will defeat the good points of the BLUE RUBBER gasket. Which are: can't over tighten the bolts, can be used over and over, will not leak, last one you will have to buy, etc-etc-etc. Leave the cork to the fisher men. On a car its junk.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

ToniJ1960

 And you dont use rtv with the rubber one?

fastfred

I had the very same issue just over week ago.  The brand new cork gasket split at the front corner when tightening down causing a bad leak that ran down the engine causing a lot of smoke when hot!   Tried some gasket compound but it didn't work.

I went to Advance Autos and bought a blue colored rubber gasket, twice the price but no more leaks.  I mentioned to the staff at the store the issue.  They said the cork gaskets have issues.

Get the rubber one, twice the price but much better.  They also have 8 metal inserts where the bolts go through.

Fred

pintoguy76

Yes thats what I do. I put it on the VC, then smear it out, then put on the gasket and align the bolt holes. Let it set up a while then put the sealer on the gasket and then put it on the head. I let it set up a bit then before i tighten down the screws.... just as a precaution so that the sealer is less likely to squeeze out when tightening the bolts.
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

ToniJ1960

 Should I put it on the vc first and let it set up then do the head side?

pintoguy76

Not overly thin, but not super thick either. Id say put maybe a 1/4 inch bead on there and smear it out flat with your finger....
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

ToniJ1960


pintoguy76

1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E