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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

manual rack

Started by Qwerser, April 11, 2014, 08:04:31 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

jeremysdad

This thread needs to be locked before it goes any further downhill. ;)

poomwah

you would have got a lot farther if you had been patient and didn't complain because nobody bent over backwards to meet your schedule.
People on here are a GREAT help. There are many occasions where I didn't have the time to wait for a response, so I bit the bullet and went and figured it out.  I didn't let my tampon string get in the way and then complain that someone else should have told me not to.
  Hate this forum all you want, I love it

Qwerser

Hey look at that! I hurt your feelings? Or was I speaking Chinese earlier? If I knew that all I had to do was poke fun at your liver spots to get a response, I would have done that in the first place. Only ten views later and I got a whole lot more than I would have after making ten more threads.

You guys are like broken records. A few searches shows these questions have been asked at least 15 different times. They get one beat around the bush reply and two weeks later, someone asks the same thing.
This forum sounds like a broken record.
"Cheap power upgrades" (non existent)
"Alternate carburetor options"
"How do I get rid of these vacuum lines"
"What wheels fit"
"Rear disc brake conversion"
"What 5 speed fits"
"How do I upgrade to electronic ignition"
Take your time to answer these repetative questions in depth and sticky them. Then we can move on to different topics.

F***, make a dedicated how to page on these simple questions.

I'd love to tell you how I'm machining an adaptor plate for a weber 48idf, but I'm afraid nobody would care. It'd just be washed out by other stupid threads.
I'm done asking questions, I'll just post write ups and you can sticky them or just let them get lost beyond page two and have new members ask the same questions over and over.
I don't like doing things the hard way, but looks like I'll have to figure it out myself.

Stay tuned, maybe you'll learn something.

poomwah

Quote from: dick1172762 on April 14, 2014, 05:10:16 PM
Maybe Qwerser should get some of those "good ole boys" down in NASCAR land to help him out. I'm sure NC has a few of them.
that might not be a bad idea as long as he doesn't want his pinto to turn right

poomwah

Quote from: jeremysdad on April 14, 2014, 04:40:54 PM
For that matter, isn't it a lot easier (if not required---haven't tried it on mine yet) to jack the motor up off the mounts to change the pan gasket? :) lol
I, like Pinto5.0, wouldn't normally criticize someone's lack of knowledge. But if you've got the knowledge and skills to pull the oil pan but can't figure out how to pull a steering rack, there's something wrong.
I always try to remove and reseal parts just for the sake of gaining clearance.  Why on earth would I want to pull a couple bolts when I pull a dozen and buy a new gasket

dick1172762

Maybe Qwerser should get some of those "good ole boys" down in NASCAR land to help him out. I'm sure NC has a few of them.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

jeremysdad

Quote from: Rob3865 on April 12, 2014, 07:18:39 PM
Wouldn't it be easier to unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine up instead of removing the oil pan?

For that matter, isn't it a lot easier (if not required---haven't tried it on mine yet) to jack the motor up off the mounts to change the pan gasket? :) lol

Pinto5.0

Quote from: dick1172762 on April 14, 2014, 03:21:37 PM
I'll second that. Those people on HAMB are all charter members and want to stay that way. Bunch of jerks.

None of the words I'd use for those clowns will post over here. Posting there is like being the only normal person on a board that is 99.999% trolls!
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

dick1172762

I'll second that. Those people on HAMB are all charter members and want to stay that way. Bunch of jerks.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Pinto5.0

I rarely criticize anyone with just a few posts because everyone has a learning curve & a few have never picked up a wrench before but I have to ask if you have been on the HAMB posting. That crappy attitude of yours is identical to 95% of their members. I can't even stand reading posts on that site with the attitudes those morons have. Try it again with less attitude.
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

amc49

Obviously no. I got what you said instantly. You slide the rack out sideways through the hole made there.

jeremysdad

Quote from: Qwerser on April 14, 2014, 12:41:02 PM
Ok well I got a little further. To remove the pump, you need to remove the three bolts holding it to the block. I had trouble because they were to long to remove without first removing the pully. I rented a power steering pully remover from advance after some research of my own. You'd think someone would have heard of this before and recommended it to me.

Then I removed the "pinch bolt" that pinches the input shaft of the rack. You'd think someone had seen this before and told me prior to disassembling the entire lower steering column.

Now my only problem is getting the two large bolts out of the cross member that holds the rack in place. I removed the two nuts from the front of it with a 15/16" wrench, but now the bolts won't come out. I've tried smacking them out from the front with a hammer, and turning the head in the back with the same 15/16" socket to no avail. In fact, the bolt is stuck in there so bad, that the only way I could twist the bolt was to adjust the socket wrench in such a manner that I could get the jack under it and pump it up. The seal didn't break and I turned it at least half a turn. It's getting no less harder to turn after using the jack.
So before I break something, does anyone have any insight of removing the large bolts? Yes I know, wd40, heat the bolt bla bla bla.

And no Rob, undoing the motor mounts and raising the engine is not easier than dropping the oil pan. Are you kidding me? Did you even read my post?

And no Dad, I'm not removing my inner tie rod. Did you even read my post?

How does this thread have 90 views and no-one has any idea what I'm talking about?
If you have no idea what I'm talking about, don't even bother replying, just stay tuned and I'll do a write up when done on how to convert power to manual steering.

My post said "tire", not "tie rod". Did you read mine? :D lol

poomwah

Often the driver must be fixed before the car can be.....   I REALLY like that.


and not to pile on, but I can only wholeheartedly agree about the simplicity of the pinto. That's ONE of the many reasons I got mine. It's a throw back to a simpler time.


there are still a lot of questions that I have asked from people on here to try to save myself some aggravation and some wasted effort, but I'm patient about responses, thankful for the ones I get, and not the least resentful about the questions that go unanswered.

amc49

Just what the world needs, another high maintenance crybaby...................you can just get in line behind the other 5 1/2 billion people.

People respond because they want to, not because they owe you anything. You are totally out of line by DEMANDING response, I can just imagine how well the rest of your life goes.

Thirty seconds of looking would have revealed the pinch bolt, oh, forgot, you have to be TOLD how to do everything or you screw it up. You seem to say that yourself so don't get all uptight about it. Learn from the extra unneeded work, much more valuable to you than us helping the baby to crawl. A minute of looking and thinking beats 2 hours of work for nothing every day.

Luck but you need the reality check. People here will help but they have lives as well, and sometimes the help is not direct and exact, you will not get the 100 page book there. You have to put it all together yourself often, and why we all paid taxes so you could go to school to learn to think. What did you expect here, a factory mechanic at your beck and call and for free? Message to self, most Pinto experts have PASSED AWAY. Any left will not lift a finger for you with the way you come across.

Like I keep saying over and over, often the driver must be fixed before the car can be.

Pintosopher, you put it well, unfortunately I am more blunt than that. I was thinking of modern EFI cars as well and if this simple crackerbox Pinto is confusing then this guy best not open a hood on a new car............

Pintosopher

Quote from: Qwerser on April 14, 2014, 12:41:02 PM
Ok well I got a little further. To remove the pump, you need to remove the three bolts holding it to the block. I had trouble because they were to long to remove without first removing the pully. I rented a power steering pully remover from advance after some research of my own. You'd think someone would have heard of this before and recommended it to me.

Then I removed the "pinch bolt" that pinches the input shaft of the rack. You'd think someone had seen this before and told me prior to disassembling the entire lower steering column.

Now my only problem is getting the two large bolts out of the cross member that holds the rack in place. I removed the two nuts from the front of it with a 15/16" wrench, but now the bolts won't come out. I've tried smacking them out from the front with a hammer, and turning the head in the back with the same 15/16" socket to no avail. In fact, the bolt is stuck in there so bad, that the only way I could twist the bolt was to adjust the socket wrench in such a manner that I could get the jack under it and pump it up. The seal didn't break and I turned it at least half a turn. It's getting no less harder to turn after using the jack.
So before I break something, does anyone have any insight of removing the large bolts? Yes I know, wd40, heat the bolt bla bla bla.

And no Rob, undoing the motor mounts and raising the engine is not easier than dropping the oil pan. Are you kidding me? Did you even read my post?

And no Dad, I'm not removing my inner tie rod. Did you even read my post?

How does this thread have 90 views and no-one has any idea what I'm talking about?
If you have no idea what I'm talking about, don't even bother replying, just stay tuned and I'll do a write up when done on how to convert power to manual steering.

Qwerser,
The "challenges" you are experiencing are even present on today's newer cars, especially with Power steering access and rack assemblies. Perhaps you would do well to remember that many of us have "gone through the Fire" of these type of repairs, and that help and information flows better without a projected "attitude".
We all have different solutions for many of the same problems. By comparison , these cars are a cakewalk when put to a Modern FWD transverse motor vehicle.
Continued good luck in your Project,

Pintosopher
Yes, it is possible to study and become a master of Pintosophy.. Not a religion , nothing less than a life quest for non conformity and rational thought. What Horse did you ride in on?

Check my Pinto Poems out...

Qwerser

Ok well I got a little further. To remove the pump, you need to remove the three bolts holding it to the block. I had trouble because they were to long to remove without first removing the pully. I rented a power steering pully remover from advance after some research of my own. You'd think someone would have heard of this before and recommended it to me.

Then I removed the "pinch bolt" that pinches the input shaft of the rack. You'd think someone had seen this before and told me prior to disassembling the entire lower steering column.

Now my only problem is getting the two large bolts out of the cross member that holds the rack in place. I removed the two nuts from the front of it with a 15/16" wrench, but now the bolts won't come out. I've tried smacking them out from the front with a hammer, and turning the head in the back with the same 15/16" socket to no avail. In fact, the bolt is stuck in there so bad, that the only way I could twist the bolt was to adjust the socket wrench in such a manner that I could get the jack under it and pump it up. The seal didn't break and I turned it at least half a turn. It's getting no less harder to turn after using the jack.
So before I break something, does anyone have any insight of removing the large bolts? Yes I know, wd40, heat the bolt bla bla bla.

And no Rob, undoing the motor mounts and raising the engine is not easier than dropping the oil pan. Are you kidding me? Did you even read my post?

And no Dad, I'm not removing my inner tie rod. Did you even read my post?

How does this thread have 90 views and no-one has any idea what I'm talking about?
If you have no idea what I'm talking about, don't even bother replying, just stay tuned and I'll do a write up when done on how to convert power to manual steering.

Rob3865

Wouldn't it be easier to unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine up instead of removing the oil pan?

jeremysdad

I know the answer to 1 (for the early models, at least) is that you can remove the driver's side tire and thread the rack out from the side. Not sure on the newer ones, they mount slightly differently.

Qwerser

Received my manual rack and pinion from rock auto today (for only $83 by the way) and got about halfway through before I had to go to work. Only got as far as removing the two large bolts from the cross member (?) and removed the tie rod ends, counting the rotations, and partially removing the pump. Not that I've ran into any significant problems, but I have a few questions, that if unanswered, I may be able to just figure out myself.
1 is that there does not seem to be any clearance between the oil pan and rack to remove it. If I have to, I'll just drop the pan and get a new gasket in there while I've got it removed.
2 is that I can't get the pump off due to the heads of the mounting bolts not being able to unscrew any further than the pully will allow. In other words,I can't back them out any more because they hit the pully. How do I remove the pully from the pump?
3 I haven't even began to assess the rag joint (?) to see how the splines of the input shaft attach to the steering shaft...thing.
Also really hoping I bought the right diameter input shaft for the job!
Measured the circumference of the power steering input shaft with string and ruler and then converted it to diameter and only got 1 inch. There were no options for one inch so I got the one that was closest, which was 1.25 inches.
Oh well I guess. I'll just have to try to figure it out.
Let me know what you guys think and sorry for not knowing all the terms, but hopefully you get the point, and I'll check my Haynes for some ideas tonight.