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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

help please ignition cylinder

Started by tonij1960, November 26, 2012, 10:33:17 PM

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earthquake

You could try a pair of channel locks to force it back to acc position.It worked for me,once.If not I have a 78 column black refurbished bare $40.00
73 sedan parts car,80 crusin wagon conversion,76 F 250 460 SCJ,74 Ranchero 4x4,88 mustang lx convertable,and the readheaded step child 86 uhhh Chevy 4x4(Sorry guys it was cheap)

ToniJ1960

 I kind of know that feeling I had this one for nearly 27 years and bought my first one (a 1974 wagon) in 1980. I forgot how I did some tings and not in a real big hurry to try again after all those years especially.

On my 74 wagonm a friend I had let drive it pulled out the key with pliers, I guess he didnt rdive a lot of cars and didnt realize there was a button you had to push. The key had marks from the pliers and the whole cylinder just turned and turned. They got it out with a slide hammer, but looking at the pictures in the thread and in my chiltons, I believe the older ones had a different cylinder without the pin that we were talking about. And for whatever reason after drilling and grinding down that pin it still wont come out.

maphoone

I saw this and had to say something,this happened to me some / many years ago and I called a locksmith I don't remember how but he explained how to pull the ignition switch out  and also had another one or re built it .
I think it was under 30$  all I remember is the keys were not the same as the door any more
I have had 4 Pintos and worked on them all my self , its surprising what I don't remember ... ??? or maybe I don't want to.

Pinto5.0

I think it should bolt in but the wiring is probably going to be different.
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

ToniJ1960

 ok the lights  are on it was a bad contact on the fuse from a dirty fuse clip. On the input side where the wire from the light switch comes from. Only had 12v on one side of the fuse I first thought ok a bad fuse, but as I was starting to pull it out the lights came on.No contact from the metal clip to the metal on  the fuse to carry 12v through the fuse to the lights. Contact cleaner and putting the fuse in and out a few times, now I have my IP lights back.

ToniJ1960

 Well so far no one has said wil the 73 one work or not. Anyone know?

Also now that I drove it the steering wheel makes a clack sound when I turn it to the right and back to the left. Small wiggling back and forth I dont hear feel the clunk type noise or feeling you get from bad tie rods. Its a louder clack type sound and vibration on the wheel itself. I onder if we messed up the bearings in it, or if its because we didnt get the wheel back on straight at all (going to take it off and put it back on tomorrow. Check the  wheels yourself, to someone else they might look straight I guess, have to remember that next time).

And no lights on the instrument panel. Going to check the fuse and maybe I should check the connector on the ignition switch after getting my hand in there to see if it was loose. Can someone tell me if the if the dome light is the same as a courtesy light? I know Im going to feel stupid about asking this later. But the fuse for the ip lighting gets fed from the same power source off the ignition switch as the `courtesy lights` and the dome light works. So if  the dome light=courtesy light the feed from the ignition switch for the ip lights should be ok too.

bbobcat75

no sure. im sure the pinto goo roos on here will know!!! any help will be great!!! thanks guys!!
1975 mercury bobcat 2.8 auto
1975 ford pinto - drag car - 2.3l w/t5 trans - project car

ToniJ1960


bbobcat75

if you need a colum i have one i just pulled out of a 73 wagon, let me know if you would like to purchase!
good luck

eric
1975 mercury bobcat 2.8 auto
1975 ford pinto - drag car - 2.3l w/t5 trans - project car

ToniJ1960

Quote from: Ricpinto on December 06, 2012, 12:27:34 PM
Like I said I prefer to disconnect the upper u-joint. Because of it's simple double 'D' design (to me) it makes it much easier to re-index things and
the column is much shorter & you don't have the shaft flopping all over the place. However it's your car, so do it how you wish.
Be on the lookout for a PM.

Thanks for helping its been so long since I changed the rag joint. I cant even remember if it was ths one or the 79 I had.

I did tonight finally take desperate measures and saw the rod so I can get it o start.Im going to do some shopping tomorrow finally cant get much food home on the bus.

289Wagon

 Like I said I prefer to disconnect the upper u-joint. Because of it's simple double 'D' design (to me) it makes it much easier to re-index things and
the column is much shorter & you don't have the shaft flopping all over the place. However it's your car, so do it how you wish.
Be on the lookout for a PM.
Still living the dream...In a points & condenser world.

ToniJ1960

 Im seriously thinking thats what Im going to wind up doing. Do you disconnect it at the rag joint or at the input shaft of the rack? I remember changing a rag joint one time I dont remember having anyone helping me but I may have it had to be over 12 years ago.

For now Im thinking of cutting the rod that goes from the cylinder to the switch and see if I can work it by hand. Its drastic and maybe the final straw on the back of using this column,but maybe I can at least drive it for a while to get my groceries :)

I just spent about an hour with the wiring diagram I dont know why they make them so hard to read but finally started coming together, just have a major headache now.

289Wagon

 With all the trouble you're having it would be easier to just replace the entire steering column. If I recall there are two wiring connectors, four nuts
or maybe two nuts & two bolts and disconnect the upper u-joint. You will need someone to help guide the joint on when putting in the replacement column.
Just a thought.
Still living the dream...In a points & condenser world.

71pintoracer

Can't believe the slide hammer won't pull it out, the steel pin is what gives the most resistance. the end of the cylinder does go through a slotted washer, most of the time the end of the cylinder will break off, sometimes the washer breaks as well. I've pulled literally 100's out with a slide hammer. ( I work at a Ford dealer) I never drill them. In fact today I pulled one out of an '02 crown vic. 3 wacks with the slide hammer. Gone in 60 seconds!
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

ToniJ1960

 Theres something going on in there. The pin is gone its clear and the cylinder wont come out still. It looks like there may not be a washer but a metal wall or something in the end of the housing that could have that same T sort of shape in it that means the cylinder does have to be turned. So now I have to try to drill out the tumblers and get it to turn to the run position.I can get the cylinder to move forward nearly a quarter inch and see in there a little. If I had a small saw blade that could get in there and cut that end of the lock cylinder off I could try that.

ToniJ1960

Quote from: Bipper on December 02, 2012, 12:15:23 AM

Yes that way will work also. But it is very difficult but not impossible to know when the tumbler is in the right position after it's chewed up. But if you think you're close and the pin won't push in you could try and pound the pin in with a punch. The reason it won't slide out with just the pin pushed in is the end of the tumbler is sort of shaped like a "T". That T goes through the drive gear washer that has a matching T shaped hole in the center. Therefore to remove or install the tumbler these T shapes have to line up. If my memory serves me I think that is in the run position. Hope that makes sense.
You might also want to see if someone has posted a video on youtube about removing a Ford ignition tumbler.
Bob in Socal

I really hope this is wrong and its not the drive end of the cylinder still keeping it from coming out now that the pin is drilled ( but maybe not still completely)


The main reasons I think it is wrong are as follows

1. a regular washer with a round hole would sem to work as well. Why spend extra to make a special part that isnt needed?
2. it would probably be a little harder to put together if the washer had to be turned a certain way for them (washer and gear) to align. Again uneccesary so why.
3. even if the cylinder turned if the washer turned you still wouldnt be able to pull the t shaped end out of washer if it had that shape opening, if the washer was able to turn also once the t end went through and into the gear. And if the washer wasnt able to turn against the gear and forced to stay in alignment with the gear, then it wouldnt matter as far as removing the cylinder because the t shape openings would be lined up no matter if the cylinder is in the off run start position.


Does this actually make sense? If this was something to with electronic engineering I feel on steadier ground.

ToniJ1960

 I have got the pin drilled away but it must be some little bumps still that wont let it come out. We used a slide hammer (window down door open) and no luck. I guess I need a small grinder to get it flush. The holes a little bigger that it was  so the cylinder might wind up being a little loose in there but I dont care right now. It could probably be shimmed or something. Im just so close I can feel it bit still cant drive my car its my only vehicle too. I just dont need two cars to try to keep going though.

So I have a small sharp flat blade I may try to plow some of the bits off or down with. And try to find out where to get some small small grinding bits for a dremel locally. Harbor freight home depot anyone know?

ToniJ1960

 That pin isnt budging what I wonder is wil it break off. Maybe if I drill along the half side of it and make i thinner it wil break off.

71pintoracer

Hammer & punch. Drive it in as far as it will go then slide hammer.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

ToniJ1960

 The pin wont go in because the cylinder wont turn looking at the new one you can see theres no way the pin can go in. Will it break off?

71pintoracer

Yep thats how I pull cylinders out of everything. Since you have started drilling the pin go ahead and drive it up into the cyl then wack it with the slide hammer. Should pop right out.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

ToniJ1960

 can you break the cylinder out with a slide hammer even if you cant get the pin in?

71pintoracer

Wow you guys go about this the hard way!! I slide hammer them all the time. Get someone to hold the steering wheel from the driver side and 3-4 wacks out it comes. Make sure you have the pass door open and the window down lol! Also, you can use a pin punch and drive the steel pin up into the cylinder. DON'T drill down into the cylinder!! When that bit hits that steel pin the drill will twist and try to break your arm!
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

ToniJ1960

 I started drilling the pin. I just didnt realize I drilled half the pin and half the hole. So now Im taking a break before I destroy it. Its probably going to be more difficult to drill it outnow so I may have to try to drill it along the side of the half of pin thats there. If I damage that hole too much I wonder if I can put a sleeve in it.

The lock block came out so I put a good washer behind it pretty thick it shouldnt bend or wear out so now my steering wheel wont look. Tempted to zip tie the push rod to the column and s aw it to get the car started more than ever. I think ill sleep on it and maybe my brain will be fresh or less stirred up tomorrow.

Bipper

This might be of some help. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFZeb5KFpUw Same basic design as a pinto. The reason his tumbler came right out was he was able to turn the key to the run position just not the start position.
Bob in Socal   
71 Sedan, stock
72 Pangra
73 Runabout, 2L turbo propane

r4pinto

Like Bipper I can't recall either since I replaced the ignition on my 77 in 2006 before Carlisle after I lost the keys. From what I recall once I got the pin out I was able to remove the cylinder with no problem. I can't say for certain since it was so long ago but that's what I'm thinking.
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

Bipper

Quote from: tonij1960 on December 01, 2012, 11:17:01 PM
  From what I read you drill through with the 3/8 to get the tumblers to all fall out then it can turn and you can press the pin in.


Yes that way will work also. But it is very difficult but not impossible to know when the tumbler is in the right position after it's chewed up. But if you think you're close and the pin won't push in you could try and pound the pin in with a punch. The reason it won't slide out with just the pin pushed in is the end of the tumbler is sort of shaped like a "T". That T goes through the drive gear washer that has a matching T shaped hole in the center. Therefore to remove or install the tumbler these T shapes have to line up. If my memory serves me I think that is in the run position. Hope that makes sense.
You might also want to see if someone has posted a video on youtube about removing a Ford ignition tumbler.
Bob in Socal
71 Sedan, stock
72 Pangra
73 Runabout, 2L turbo propane

ToniJ1960

Quote from: Bipper on December 01, 2012, 09:52:46 PM
I have run into this problem many times at FEDEX when we used Ford vans. From my experience the key tumbler just wore out from age. Has never been the ignition switch, rod or lock gear mechanism. To remove a tumbler that won't turn disconnect battery, remove steering wheel, disconnect turn signal switch at connecter under dash, remove turn switch screws and lift switch out of the way. You don't have to take it all the way out just out of the way for access to the pin. Do yourself a favor and center punch the pin, then drill it out. Then drill into the keyway of the tumbler with a 3/8 bit. You want to drill until the tumbler pins fall out. Don't drill deeper than the length of a key or you will be drilling into the washer and drive gear. If it won't come out step drill above the 3/8 size. It's been many years since I have done one of these so I don't remember what size I ended up with but with some prying and wiggling the tumbler will slide out. Good luck.

Bob in Socal     

I got the steering wheel off and trying to figure out how to get my dril at that angle maybe I need a different tool.Im using a dremel, I guess I just need to round up some extension cords so I can run a good drill out there.

My main question to you is, if I drill that retaining pin out why would I still need to drill through the cylinder with the 3.8 bit? It seems like it would come out without turning it once the pin is out. From what I read you drill through with the 3/8 to get the tumblers to all fall out then it can turn and you can press the pin in.

So why both?

Also I was able to get my hand back on top of the columb and feel the switch part and the wires.It doesnt feel like anything is loose there.'

The lock button to lock the steering wheel pushes in easily, but after I took the screw out for the block it wont come out of the housing.

Bipper

I have run into this problem many times at FEDEX when we used Ford vans. From my experience the key tumbler just wore out from age. Has never been the ignition switch, rod or lock gear mechanism. To remove a tumbler that won't turn disconnect battery, remove steering wheel, disconnect turn signal switch at connecter under dash, remove turn switch screws and lift switch out of the way. You don't have to take it all the way out just out of the way for access to the pin. Do yourself a favor and center punch the pin, then drill it out. Then drill into the keyway of the tumbler with a 3/8 bit. You want to drill until the tumbler pins fall out. Don't drill deeper than the length of a key or you will be drilling into the washer and drive gear. If it won't come out step drill above the 3/8 size. It's been many years since I have done one of these so I don't remember what size I ended up with but with some prying and wiggling the tumbler will slide out. Good luck.

Bob in Socal     
71 Sedan, stock
72 Pangra
73 Runabout, 2L turbo propane

discolives78

Ok, I've been trying to think of other things to try, before you saw thru that rod, try this, with the steering wheel off, put the key in and give this thing a few raps with the hammer, don't unleash all your fury, just tap it good while you try to turn the key. Also one more question, did the button on the bottom side of the column pop back out after you took the key out last time? Or did it stick in? Anyway, by tapping it here, you're basically 'helping' that potmetal doohickey toward the electrical part, same motion as when you turn the key onward, on the electrical part in is on and out is off.



Once again wishing you luck and fortune :)


A virtual version of my last Pinto. Was Registered Ride #111. Missed every day.