Mini Classifieds

1980 pinto/bobcat floors
Date: 07/24/2018 08:11 pm
Bell housing
Date: 08/23/2017 05:41 am
1980 Pinto for sale

Date: 11/24/2016 06:32 pm
pinto floor mats??

Date: 01/11/2017 07:27 am
Mini Mark IV one of 2 delux lg. sunroof models
Date: 06/18/2018 03:47 pm
1974 Pinto Inside Rear View Mirror & Brake Pedal Pad

Date: 02/18/2017 04:41 pm
1976 Ford Pinto Pony
Date: 09/06/2018 05:40 pm
Pinto Engines and engine parts
Date: 01/24/2017 12:36 pm
1977 Front Sump 2.3 Oil Pan
Date: 09/14/2018 11:42 pm

Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

Members
Stats
  • Total Posts: 139,575
  • Total Topics: 16,267
  • Online today: 2,670
  • Online ever: 2,670 (Today at 01:57:20 AM)
Users Online
  • Users: 0
  • Guests: 603
  • Total: 603
F&I...more

My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Rust loves to hide

Started by popbumper, June 26, 2008, 10:11:09 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

popbumper

I thought my '76 MPG wagon had 3.08 gears in it - but I may be wrong (I need to go check the paperwork again).

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

discolives78

About the MPG models, these cars had different final drive ratios in addition to being detuned and stripped of unnecessary weight. As I recall, and an expert may be able to correct me, one rear end had 3:40 gears and one had 3:14 gears.


A virtual version of my last Pinto. Was Registered Ride #111. Missed every day.

popbumper

Chuck:

If you need any pointers, tips, whatever, let me know - be glad to help. My repairs were very successful!

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

discolives78

Chris

I'm gonna have to steal some of your technique for my brother's bus, it came from colorado with holes in the floor, wheelwells, heater system and a hole about the size of a brick in the bottom of the left rear quarter. Still not finding much rust hiding in my Pinto, I've been under the carpet, in the trunk, carefully examined the firewall and cowl. I did find a few small bubbles on the edge of my trunklid though, and I'll get a pic of my 'rusty' battery tray up for you.



Chuck


A virtual version of my last Pinto. Was Registered Ride #111. Missed every day.

r4pinto

Yeah, that's what I am figuring so I'm gonna end up examining the cowl area very, very closely to make sure it is sealed. Once I fix the rust I don't want it to come back.
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

popbumper

r4Pinto:

  Your water leak is probably where just about everyone else's is/was, at the cowl. Make sure you clean your vents out, and remove leaves/sticks/debris. Run a hose in thesr and take a look at your firewall on either the driver or passenger side, the leak will probably reveal itself.

My leak is an ugly nole hidden up under the driver's fender at the cowl; I still have to patch it, but my floors are great now. Good luck!

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

r4pinto

Wow! I am glad to find your post on rust repair for the floors. Although my floors are much, much worse than yours it has given me something to look at for when I do fix mine. I prolly aughtta pull the whole interior to do the fixing. Gotta find my water leak first though.
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

popbumper

Exactly! Gee, I'm sure glad I have one ;D. Time for a turbo swap.... ;)

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

Reed

I am familiar with the Feather Duster and Dart Lite 1976-year-only fuel economy packages (my background is in Mopars and salnt sixes), and I figured the "MPG" option was something similar.

So really the package is just an overdrive manual tranny with tall rear gears combined with a tiny engine?   :-\  Not a good idea.  That might actually decrease MPG on anything that isn't flat or downhill....
Looking for:  Rear and side window louvers for a 71 sedan, 15 inch aluminum slotted mags and tires (Ansen sprint style), and an Offenhauser dual-port intake for a 2000cc motor.

Wittsend

While all might not apply to the Pinto most "MPG" type of cars from the '70's came with light weight components
(often aluminum), their smallest engines, radial tires, overdrive transmissions (often converted 4 speeds), and two point something rear end gears (can you spell "Bog").

  Plymouth sold an "MPG" style Duster called the "Feather Duster." It was by today's standards a very large car with a 3.7 liter 6 cylinder engine. Regardless, it had an EPA rating of 36 MPG!!!

Others will be able to fill you in better on the specifics to the MPG Pinto.
Tom

77turbopinto

I think all cars had to have that emission stuff. As far as the 'MPG' side, the emissions controls were more likely to reduce fuel economy.


Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

popbumper

>EXPERTS< please jump in and correct me if I am wrong...

The 1970's were an interesting time. For those who did not experience it, the decade was the first in our Nation's history to recognize the environment (Earth Day comes to mind), and put pressure on industries and manufacturers to do something about carbon-based emissions of any kind. Like todays "hybrid" efforts, increases in fuel prices, gas rationing and stricter EPA mandates all forced automobile manufacturers to take a hard look at automotive emissions.

With public awareness heightened, manufacturers took on marketing campaigns that promoted the significance of these efforts, and specifically adapted "improvements" to the automobile drivetrains to accomplish better fuel effieciency, and fewer emissions, all under the umbrella of the "MPG" moniker - literally, "Miles Per Gallon".

MPG models were equipped with a fuel tank vapor collector (charcoal canister), a smog pump (that pumped air into the exhaust, helping unburned fuel to be oxidized), and the catalytic convertor, in addition to other vacuum-related enhancements that "tightened up" fuel and exhaust leakage issues.

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

Reed

WOW!  My pans look like crap compared to yours!  I am not going for looks though, I just want solid patches over the holes.

Your wagon is looking SHARP!

I have a question,  what is the significance of the "MPG"?  I have seen several people talk about it.  What option package was it?
Looking for:  Rear and side window louvers for a 71 sedan, 15 inch aluminum slotted mags and tires (Ansen sprint style), and an Offenhauser dual-port intake for a 2000cc motor.

popbumper

Pintony:

  The car was quite clearly undercoated at one time, I would think at the factory. VIN data tells me it's a Canadian built car, but the DSO was Dallas, TX, so it never saw salt roads, which explains why it still has integrity. The rust was confined to floor pans (cowl leaks), and of course the cowl itself needs attention, since leaves sat in it for years and acted like a sponge holding water. Specifically:

1) Hood has only surface rust at the lock mech
2) Fenders are completely dry
3) Drivers door has a dime-sized hole at the front lower corner
4) Passenger door has a half-dollar sized hole at the front curve beneath the rubber seal
5) Rear hatch has a half-dollar sized hole at the window rubber seal (weird spot!)
6) Floors as stated
7) Quarters/doglegs/inner fenders are dry

  Some of the undercoating is starting to peel, so I will have to do another application when repaint time comes. I want this body to last another 30 years.
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

popbumper

One more odd find - beneath the jute padding under the rear seats, I found a few of these "warning tags" folded up!! If you look carefully, there are check boxes for "engine", "electrical", and "fuel". I guess this is where the Pinto jokes come in....
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

popbumper

OK, a little more work tonite; pulled the back "apart", removing the carpet, side panels, spare tire, etc. Discovered a few things:

1) Passenger wheel well was dented at the top, and the area behind the plastic panel was "sawed". What is interesting is that there is very POOR body work on the rear quarter, so it must have been hit, and they tried to access it from the inside. There was evidence of some broken glass in between the rear seat panel and body. The plastic panels are also crumbling somewhat.

2) Wheel well and all panels are solid w/o rust. Dog legs/quarters are solid. Tail pan is solid. Tail pan cover and plastic metal guides were removed, and all was vacuumed.
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

popbumper

OK, two more shots showing the completed floor pans with BLACK POR-15 prior to sound deadening and recarpeting. Excuse the dirt/leaves; the car has a lot else to go through before I get the interior finished.
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

Wittsend

Just a comment regarding the POR-15.  It does NOT dry by venting solvents as regular paint does. It is actually moisture cured.  If you are going to dip your matting you should be using the whole can at one time. The more you expose the stuff to the air the more moisture it absorbs. Perhaps you might want to pour (no pun intended) the POR-15 over the matting on the floor. In effect you are painting the area and saturating at the same time.

I tend to use it in small amounts. What I will do is wait until the day/time has the least amount of humidity. I'll have a supply of vitamin sized containers and pour it to slightly overflowing (to completely remove the air) and quickly screw the cap on (air tight). I then label it and store it in the refrigerator.  It's not the cold that helps, but the fact that the refrigerator has very low humidity.  Even after all that I'll still find about 1/8" crusted on top when opened later.  However, that "opened later" as been as much as three years later and still 90% is usable.

  At over $50 a quart it's not something you want going bad.  I have use about 4 quarts on my Sunbeam Tiger. And, while I like the idea for inaccessible areas, I don't find it to be the "powder coat in a can" they advertise it as. To me "scuff tests" (like a dragging shoe) and being hit with heavy or sharp objects are two different things.
Tom

Reed

Quote from: popbumper on July 24, 2008, 01:32:17 PM
I mostly used a single layer, but added small second "patches" where there was more strength needed. A hint - when you lay down the fiberglass, don't lay it down and "paint" in the POR-15 as per the instructions - it is not very effective. DIP the mat (wad it up and put it in the can, and let the excess roll off as you remove it from the can); this soaks it really well, and then you can lay the mat down as one heavy, wet mass (is not as nasty as it sounds). With it thoroughly soaked, it also allows you to SHAPE the mat so that it can contour to the surface better. With more POR-15 interlaced in the fibers, the bond strength is enhanced. I can pound it firmly with my fist and I have no flex.

I totally agree, but I wish I knew this yesterday BEFORE I laid the fiberglass down and painted it.  D'OH!  I will add another layer today and that should be enough.  I ended up completely saturating the fiberglass mat with POR-15, but even then I had trouble getting it to lay down into the chanels.  I will fill any gaps or voids with more fiberglass and the putty.

Then it is time to strip out the interior panels and the dash for deep cleaning and repainting.   8)  I am going to add some wood accents along the way.  I am designing a wood handle grip for the e-brake that will slip over the all metal factory one.
Looking for:  Rear and side window louvers for a 71 sedan, 15 inch aluminum slotted mags and tires (Ansen sprint style), and an Offenhauser dual-port intake for a 2000cc motor.

popbumper

I mostly used a single layer, but added small second "patches" where there was more strength needed. A hint - when you lay down the fiberglass, don't lay it down and "paint" in the POR-15 as per the instructions - it is not very effective. DIP the mat (wad it up and put it in the can, and let the excess roll off as you remove it from the can); this soaks it really well, and then you can lay the mat down as one heavy, wet mass (is not as nasty as it sounds). With it thoroughly soaked, it also allows you to SHAPE the mat so that it can contour to the surface better. With more POR-15 interlaced in the fibers, the bond strength is enhanced. I can pound it firmly with my fist and I have no flex.

Have fun, and wear those gloves, unless you like to have stained hands for two weeks!

Yes, the interior is gonna be a big job, but it will be beautiful when complete.

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

Reed

Chris-  how many layers of fiberglass did you use?  I used one, and it is stiff but still has flex.  I figure I need at least two more layers before the floor is stiff enough. 

Sounds like me an you are doing the same thing!  as soon as I get the floor done i am pulling the rest of the interior and painting.  Fortuantely, I just need matte black, not a color.
Looking for:  Rear and side window louvers for a 71 sedan, 15 inch aluminum slotted mags and tires (Ansen sprint style), and an Offenhauser dual-port intake for a 2000cc motor.

popbumper

Reed:

  Exactly! Take your time, clean it up well, follow the directions....this stuff is rock hard and really does a great job. As it stands right now, both of my pans are painted black - I need to shoot a pic of those and get them posted.

  Next, I need to finish the dash (repaint, add cluster piece, rework dash pad, fix steering column issues). Once this is done, I move to the back area, need to pull all the carpet and treat any issues, pull interior side panels and repaint, etc. I figure I can have the interior done before the rainy seaon (November and on). Of course, in the short term, hope to secure working space. This driveway stuff is for the birds - especially here in Texas, where daily highs have been hovering around 100 degrees, +/- 3 degrees. After 10 AM and before 7 PM are, well, "uncomfortable".

   Please post your results!!

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

Reed

Wow, those pictures look exactly like what I am doing to my Pinto right now.  I have gotten the first silver POR-15 coat laid down and now i need to go back and do the fiberglass and putty.   :laugh:
Looking for:  Rear and side window louvers for a 71 sedan, 15 inch aluminum slotted mags and tires (Ansen sprint style), and an Offenhauser dual-port intake for a 2000cc motor.

popbumper

This is not the "final" pic (I still need to shoot those - tomorrow), but this IS the complete POR-15 treatment of the front passenger pan prior to final paint.

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

popbumper

Yessir, thanks for asking, I will post pics tonite. Been slow on the trigger lately, have been looking for shop space (checking out this week), and the home A/C was out this weekend (fixed now), so have not been very active.

The floors turned out great, it's the cowl monster that gets attacked next.  :hypno:

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

popbumper

Happy 4th everyone! Remember that we are a country of special freedoms, and remember our service men and women today as they sustain this freedom for us, >soapbox off<

This week has been a good week, I took off Wednesday and Thursday in addition to the Holiday. Having received a "trunk and floorpan restoration kit" from POR-15, I began the "daunting" task of reworking my rusty passenger front floor pan.

EDIT: For those just tuning in, I had posted some pretty ugly pics of my rust, and had planned to replace a floor pan. After much debate and consideration, I opted to repair the pan rather than replace it. For what it's worth, I think it turned out great.

On to our story. I have attached four pics of the process so far. I plan to have the whole process complete by tomorrow; the third coat of paint goes on tonite. I can say with confidence that the POR 15 product is excellent, and if directions are followed, is an outstanding alternative.

PIC 1 shows the holes in the floor exposed to the final patch point, being opened as far as possible and very thoroughly wire brushed. A good part of the damage (around the drain plugs) is protected from beneath by another intact welded crossmember, while the ho;es that go "to the ground: are obvious from the light beneath.

PIC 2 shows the alkaline (Marine clean) process for the POR 15 kit. You apply the material to all surfaces, scrub it in, then water wash it. It removes dirt and gunk.

PIC 3 shows the acid etch (Metal prep) step which is a spraying of dilute phosphioric acid, left to sit for 30 minutes and the washed and dried.

PIC 4 shows start of paint application. The holes are then covered with (what appears to be) fiberglass mat. I soaked the mat pieces briefly, laid them down over the holes, and the shaped the mat edges (precut before soaking) onto the solid floor pans.

More pics and process tonite after the third coat. As the car sits right this moment, the floor pan is rock solid, dare i say very strong. I also applied small patches to the floor underside to insure best integrity.

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

TIGGER

Quote from: popbumper on June 27, 2008, 10:46:42 AM
Geeze, Tigger, I knew somebody would "one-up" me  :lost:. Man, what a mess, nice rework on that. I am not sure how I am going to handle it, but I have lined up a friend who is a welder and has a shop - so that part of the puzzle is complete. I will keep everyone up to date on this.

Chris

Thanks Chris, I took most of the money I made on that blue parts car and bought me a nice welder.  The cutting and trimming of both panels was easy.  The welding is what I had trouble with.  I butt welded the rear pan and overlapped the front one.  Overlapping was easier for me but I am still a huge novice at welding.  It was a fun project for me but I am glad I only had to do one side.   
79 4cyl Wagon
73 Turbo HB
78 Cruising Wagon (sold 8/6/11)

popbumper

...and there you have it. Nothing like a good woman. My woman is GREAT, but she wants nothing to do with the Pinto. Maybe I need to "reclassify" her..... ::)

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

77turbopinto

Connie welded the roll bar in my first circle track car.


Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

popbumper

Wow, you just invented a new way to make friends, I like it! Take it one step further and promote dating - "Welding and women.com" - maybe not  :nocool:

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08