Try using a "water wetter" in the coolant.

Do You have a cowl induction style hood? if so the air is wanting to excape there and its an induction area too so if the air is trying to excape and enter at the same time its like a brick wall of air..WOO IM SMART 15 years old and look what i thought of god someone give me a cookie

I'm with you Brad!!! 

my son's pinto has a 3 row radiator in it but still reaches about 220 to
230 degrees in hot weather unless running about 30 to 40 mph. we
also have a 16 inch electric fan mounted in front of the radiator push-
ing air. not enough room to mount it behind the radiator to pull air. any
help with this problem would be welcomed. thanks pegasus.

 If you have room put a plastic mechanical fan back on the waterpump.
 The electric fans will not pull the kind of air that a mech. fan will pull.
 You might also try a shroud.
 Also bump your timming back a bit.
 If your engine is running rich at idle?
 That will cause excess exhaust temps.
 From Pintony
 From Pintony

it makes sence though its such a small engine compartement and it cant excape anywhere else so the cowl is a like high presure zone and the scoop would be trying to induct the air right? so the air is just stuck there i dunno i might be wrong but i think it makes sence.. but yeah i see what you mean im not an expert so..

Just a shot in the dark here, because the same thing happened to me once and it took a while to track it down.

Check for a VERY slow leak of coolant from the cooling system.

I needed a cooling system pressure tester and patience to find mine, as the engine would evidently only ordinarily lose the coolant above a certain temperature and PRESSURE, (which was not being reached unless the car was being driven). Even with the pressure tester, the radiator cap was fine, and the system initially looked to be leak free, but after leaving the tester pressurized to approximately the upper limit of the standard radiator cap, and taking a short break, the leak began to be noticible. This time lag may well have been because the coolant was not hot at the time the testing was being done and differential thermal expansion was not taking place . (In my trucks' case, it turned out to be just a very slightly too loose hose clamp on a radiator hose which had been replaced several months earlier.)

If there is a leakage path for coolant, the same passage can admit air once the engine is shut down and cools, as then the coolant volume decreases. (This is when the coolant is normally sucked back into the engine from the expansion/overflow tank.)

This results in some air being trapped in the cooling sysyem.  On many engines, when air is trapped in the cooling system, the internal metal of the engine adjacent to the area where the air is, can get much hotter than if it was in continuous, direct contact with the coolant, so, when coolant DOES contact that area, that coolant can get superheated and turn to steam, which will raise the temperature (and pressure) of the rest of the coolant. If the leak is severe enough to allow a lot of air to be trapped, the resultant pressure buildup can blow off a hose or a fitting, or even burst a radiator, whichever is the weakest link in the system.