Below is a pretty good article regarding 2.3 cams.
Camshaft & Cam Timing
There are a few things that you must watch out for when modifying your engine for performance. When swapping out your factory cam for a higher performance grind there are a few simple things that you must keep in mind to do a proper swap.
When installing a new cam it is a good practice to install new related components such as tappets springs and retainers.
Never use hydraulic lifters with a mechanical cam or solid tappets with a hydraulic cam. The ramps are not compatible.
Also, it is very important to make sure your valve train can handle the timing events and lobe lift of your performance cam. Check for adequate piston to valve clearance, Spring bind and retainer to valve clearance, spring bind and retainer to valve seal clearance.
It is very important to use camshaft and lifter pre-lube when installing the cam to prevent scoring the lobes during break-in. Engine oil (regardless of its viscosity or quality) is not enough.
Mechanical cams require lash adjustment. If production head is designed for a hydraulic cam, modification is usually required.
When replacing a cam on 2.3L engines it is a good idea since you have most of the front part of the engine disassembled is to replace the timing belt, tensioner, and at least thoroughly inspect the water pump if not replace it for prevention. Also, a adjustable cam pulley is nice since you can advance and retard the cam to find the best setup for your particular application.
In this section the installation of a 2.3L cam will not be covered. For removal and installation of a cam and many other parts on these engines follow this link to turboford.org. Scroll down the page until you get to common maintenance, repairs, and upgrades. Most of the engine, non-turbo related info applies to our engines.
Ford Motorsport SVO, now known as Ford Racing Performance Parts offers a good selection of hydraulic and roller hydraulic cams. All are good for n/a and turbo charged applications. However Ford recommends to not use these cams on vehicles equipped with speed density EFI. Another excellent source of Ford 2.3L OHC engine parts and a wide selection of cams is Midwest Motorsport’s located in Kansas City, KS and Ames, IA. Their Phone number is 1-800-262-5033. They have been around for ten years and are a excellent source for almost everything you would need to build a ground up 2.3L. They even sell short and long blocks in multiple configurations .
Esslinger Engineering offers a selection of basically pure racing parts for the 2.3L OHC engine. Some of their products are excellent for street use and others should be left for serious race use only. Their heavy duty timing belt and tensioner and adjustable cam pulley are excellent upgrades to do during a cam swap, they also provide all of the PROPER tools you would need to perform a cam swap.
Here is a general Chart describing some of the basic feature or specs to look for when matching a cam with a specific application.
Duration Performance Engine/Vehicle Usage
(SAE) Characteristic s and Modifications
270-290
Good idle quality and low rpm torque.
Use with stock or slightly modified engine, stock axle gears and with auto or manual transmission
290-300
Fair idle quality. Good low to mid range torque and horsepower.
Will work with stock or modified engine. Can use with stock axle gears and with A.T. or M.T.
300-320
Rough idle quality. Good mid to high rpm torque and horsepower.
Use with M.T. or high stall A.T. Requires improved carbueration, ignition and exhaust systems. Engine will have lower vacuum than stock.
320-340
Rough idle quality. Good mid to high rpms torque and horsepower. For all out competition only.
Use with M.T. or very high stall A.T. Requires improved carbueration ignition and exhaust systems. Engine will not provide enough vacuum for accessories. Axle gear ratios must be properly selected.
Cam Timing
The Ford Motorsport Cam Sprocket is a good investment at only about 40 dollars from Summit. You can advance and retard timing to suit your particular needs. If you advance your timing you move the peak torque down to a lower rpm, and if you retard timing you add more top end speed. Try 2 degrees advancing and see how it runs. If it responds well try a couple more. Do not exceed 6 to 8 degrees of timing though. Also, the great thing is , the sprocket can be used with a stock cam and also while you are changing the cam be sure to change the timing belt too.
The most important thing to remember is balance. For every action there is an opposite reaction, give and take. Be sure to build up each part of the vehicle. Every system should be matched to the others.
