Is there a part number for that tool? Or at least a name for it?

Got a tool like the one in the video. Worked great! So how are you guys addressing the dipstick issue? I'm assuming you moved it too, when you put the pinto oil pan on. And did you drill a bung for the oil sensor in the pinto oil pan, or delete the sensor?

Glad the removal tool worked.

The dip stick move is simple. I did a slight modification to "tuck in" the stick to the intake manifold (but at the moment I can't remember specifically what it was). 

Yes, I just did without the oil level sensor (that is what you are referring to?). At least in a junkyard getting one of the two star bolts off off the oil pick up can be a real pain. The T/C oil pan gasket isn't cheap ($25-$30) but I reused it and don't have issues.

Man, this is really having me relive my project. You forget all the stuff you needed to acquire even having the donor car - oil pan, oil pick up, engine mounts, bellcrank bellhousing, clutch pedal, clutch cable, external fuel pump, radiator,  electric cooling fan, smaller heater motor. Then there are the modifications to the PS inner fender, trans tunnel, trans mount, VAM mount, heater motor, radiator cradle, motor mounts, steering rack (clearance), top of intake/throttle body (clearance) windshield washer tank, fuel and return lines - routing the wiring and mounting everything etc. And then I made it more complicated with with the T/C steering column and fuse box! It's time for a nap just thinking about it all.

At least you have a 76 which makes the motor mounts simple. I had my engine in/out seven times before committing to welding the mount. I recall 65SC said he did about the same.

It's all worth it though. And fun for the whole family. Hopefully you don't go full senile on me, I'm sure I'll be asking for many more wisdom nuggets as I progress. And Thanks to you guys for all the help. This would be much less enjoyable if I was going in blind.

On the dip stick subject, you didn't move to the deep end of the pinto pan?

Not to Hijack, but I've been in the Deep end of my Pan for some time, and I'm sure I've been called a Dipstick too!

There ought to be two dipstick holes in the block on the driver's side. I did almost exactly what Wittsend did as far as placement. The original dipstick hole rearward of the oil cooler will have to be plugged and the front one will have a welch plug in that needs to be knocked-out.

I had hoped to reuse the plug, but it shot into the grass and leaves beside my workspace when I punched it out from the sump side. 

I also used a C-Line 7qt pan. The dipstick reads a quart+ low when there are seven in the sump. 

On a side note, I don't think the low oil sensor is tied to the ECU, so disconnecting it shouldn't pose a problem. Most of them leak anyway.

Ahhh..., yes, fond memories. Why is it when it is someone else's wires they seem so few? LOL And, yes, I did cut the cradle support to get the engine out. A salvage title and a rat in the HVAC system saw to that.

 Nice find under the shifter boot!

I'm sure the bellhousing etc. are out there but it may take some hunting.  While I limit myself to "self serve" yards finding anything Turbo Coupe of late has been extremely difficult.  I did my swap in mid-2008 and at that time the two yards I frequent probably had 3-5 T/C's every month I would visit. Within six months of starting the project it dropped to 1-2 T/C's per visit.

 In the last two years I believe I have found 1 T/C. that car was an '88. Great for the LA-3 ECU, but it would have the hydraulic clutch which the Pinto swaps don't need.  These yards aren't out in the middle of nowhere either.  They serve the western side of Los Angeles, the second largest city in the country.

So, again, another reason to be thankful for having the donor car.

I GOT A BELLHOUSING FROM A 93 MUSTANG 2.3 THAT WAS CABLE OPERATED

If I can't find one local in the next day or two, I'll be hitting you up.

Ordered the bellhousing and fork from a reputable parts hoarder! Thanks PintoCrazed. I dug out my ol' 100 amp mig to get ready for the sheet metal work on the pinto. I think I can get most of my welding done while keeping the pinto drivable, cutting the down time for it by a couple of days.

 Is the electric speedo something I need for the engine management system? I want to use my mechanical gauge.

YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO ROB THE STUFF OFF THE BACK IF IT HAS REAR DISK

Is the electric speedo something I need for the engine management system? I want to use my mechanical gauge.

No, but it has come under discussion of late how the ECU determines what gear you are in and adjusts the ECU boost control.  65SC thought that the speedo pulse counter in the trans measured against the RPM was able to determine that. So, you should make sure you have that. It is not that we have arrived at a solution or if it is even really needed, but the counter is good to have.  There are Tee drives available that would function both at the same time.

I'd also look at everything that has a form of attachment. As an example I mounted my VAM in the forward section of the passenger wheel well. The turbo inlet points in that direction and at least on the '73 space is limited.  I wound up using a highly modified version of the T/C VAM mount to locate it. (Images - bracket, bracket, where it was mounted) Note also the modification to the bumper mount for the (stock) air cleaner to avoid blocking the inlet.

For what it's worth I stripped my '88 of EVERYTHING but the doors, glass, trunk front suspension and welded in the Pinto rear. I made a pipe up with an old steering wheel to steer it.  Most yards wanted $100+ to haul it away, but I found someone to take it for free.  Having the Pink Slip helps with that.  I sold everything else for about $250.  If you have Ride Control I hear functional shocks and actuators can bring some cash.  So, you might want to look over on Ebay and see what sells well. Sometimes it is the little things that bring the most.

The moment observed.
My T/C was more than a donor. It was my daily driver for 10 years. I saw the car in the Recycler and dash over to see it. The woman let me drive it around the block and I was sold. It had been hit in the rear and bent at the wheel wells. But, at $1,500 when the going rate was $6,000 it had "me" written all over it. I immediately started talking purchase with her and she said that someone else had just called and offered her $2,000 for the car. So, I went home disappointed, but told her if it didn't sell to call me first.

About an hour and a half later my wife suggested I call her back. Reluctantly and with about 10% hope I did.  Her husband answered, said to hold on a minute and she got on the phone.  She was PO-ed because "Mr. $2000" was now trying to dicker the car down to $1,500.  Even though he was at $1,600 she disliked him so much that right then and there said she would let me have the car for $1,500 and sent him away.

It took me about 6 months and $300 to make it road worthy. It even survived being on jackstands during the Northridge earthquake. At some point in the time I owned it my wife was driving and someone hit the passenger door. Their insurance gave us $1,400 and I eventually found a color matching door for $30.  when I eventually gutted the car I sold unused parts for about $300.  So, in the end this 10 year daily driver cost me $100 total!  And that isn't even counting the $600+ in parts that went into the Pinto.

So, yes I can have much reverence for the T/C donor cars of the Pinto world.

Posted on page 3 but fitting here again "Dearly beloved we are gathered....":

So being fairly fresh to efi world, I find I need some input on specs to look for in an aftermarket 12v fuel pump. How many gph or gpm? And how much pressure to run the factory setup optimally.

A factory engine at factory boost should have factory fuel pressure, which is about 39-42psi with the vacuum line disconnected and plugged. Raising fuel pressure will cause the pump output to drop. In addition to increasing fuel where it's needed, it increases fueling everywhere it's not. I would like to eventually have 300+hp and plan to keep the stock regulator.

I'm using a Walbro GSL-392HP (HP = high pressure) external pump that flows 255Lph. It will support ~400whp+, but can be used at stock power (like I currently have) if the regulator and return side of the fuel system aren't a restriction. I'm using the stock 2.3T regulator and Pinto tank vent line as a return and there is no problem controlling pressure. Stock pumps are no more than 110Lph as I recall. 150-190 would be more than enough for a stock 2.3T.

It will support ~400whp+, but can be used at stock power (like I currently have) if the regulator and return side of the fuel system aren't a restriction.

By that, do you mean that the limitations are in the flow rate of that part of the system? And thus, should be what dictates my fuel delivery needs? Also, am I looking for a self regulated pump, or does the fpr do that job, or does it require both?

Gotcha. I think I know what I'm looking for now. Have you tried any pumps from other cars that have similar needs? As in something I could pull at the yard?