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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

turn signal troubles

Started by Cookieboy, April 07, 2008, 11:14:34 PM

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71pintoracer

Glad to help! If you run into any snags just holler, its really not that bad of a job. Thats the beauty of a Pinto, they are simple to work on.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

Cookieboystoys

Quote from: 71 pintoracer on April 09, 2008, 12:46:45 PM
But first do this: make a fused jumper wire (5amp fuse) and put 12 volts to your signal light wire. If it lights up you have eliminated everything from the switch out to the light. Unplug switch, put 12V to white/light blue for right, light green/white for left.

Done! I did as suggested and unplugged the switch. Put power to the wires and the lights work.

Looks like I need a switch.

Many Thanks! to all with replys and 71 Pintoracer you are the man!

It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

Cookieboystoys

Excellent!!! I got a plan  ;D

Many, Many Thanks
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

71pintoracer

That is what I would do, nothing needs to be grounded, just plug it in.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

Cookieboystoys

Many Thanks 71 Pintoracer,

Quote from: 71 pintoracer on April 09, 2008, 12:46:45 PM
But first do this: make a fused jumper wire (5amp fuse) and put 12 volts to your signal light wire. If it lights up you have eliminated everything from the switch out to the light. Unplug switch, put 12V to white/light blue for right, light green/white for left.

I'm pretty sure I understand how to do this and agree it's important to test this to make sure that the switch is what is required. I would guess if a wire is grounded/bad it would cause it not to show the "blinky blinky" where I was testing the switch.

Quote from: 71 pintoracer on April 09, 2008, 12:46:45 PM

9. this part is a little tricky but not bad, I dont think the plastic hardshell connector will come up thru the opening in the column, draw a diagram of the connector and label where the wires go in the connector.  looking in the end where the terminals poke thru, there is a small plastic locking tab that locks the wire into the connector. Take a small pocket screwdriver or a pick and pry the tab back a little and pull the wire out. when you get them all out, wrap a piece of tape around them and pull them up thru the column. When you put the new switch back in, you may need to run a piece of mechanics wire down thru the hole and attach the wiring to it and pull it thru. Then push the wires back in the connector per your diagram and make sure they lock in place.
10. reverse the previous steps and you're good to go! ;D

I don't like this part = pia but this I could do if required.

I have a new question though.... If I were to get a new or used switch could I unplug the current switch and plug in the new one without mounting in place just to test. I would guess I would have to make sure it's grounded while testing but could this be done before I install just to make sure it works. Would be a helpfull way too test if I get a used switch...
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

71pintoracer

Simple to replace. But first do this: make a fused jumper wire (5amp fuse) and put 12 volts to your signal light wire. If it lights up you have eliminated everything from the switch out to the light. Unplug switch, put 12V to white/light blue for right, light green/white for left.
To replace switch,
1. remove horn pad
2. remove steering wheel nut
3. mark wheel to shaft location, some are already marked, this is so you get the wheel back on straight. I dont remember if yours has a blind spline, the early ones dont.
Just take a punch and put a dot on the shaft and on the hub
4. remove wheel
5. remove plastic cover around column
6. remove signal lever
7. remove screws holding switch. I think 2, maybe 3
8. unplug switch
9. this part is a little tricky but not bad, I dont think the plastic hardshell connector will come up thru the opening in the column, draw a diagram of the connector and label where the wires go in the connector.  looking in the end where the terminals poke thru, there is a small plastic locking tab that locks the wire into the connector. Take a small pocket screwdriver or a pick and pry the tab back a little and pull the wire out. when you get them all out, wrap a piece of tape around them and pull them up thru the column. When you put the new switch back in, you may need to run a piece of mechanics wire down thru the hole and attach the wiring to it and pull it thru. Then push the wires back in the connector per your diagram and make sure they lock in place.
10. reverse the previous steps and you're good to go! ;D
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

Cookieboystoys

OK... I stopped and talked to my local mechanic this morning, showed him this post and we talked. He thinks it's the turn signal switch in the column and suggested replacement.

2 new ones have been found thru local sources a cheap one for $59 and a better one for $105 = ARGG!!

he told me if he get's the cheap one and installs for me total cost would be around $130 (I forget exact)

don't want to spend any more money than I have to so... off to the parts wanted section...

and  how hard is this to replace if I decide to try it myself?
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

Cookieboystoys

Thanks Matt, from what I can tell the wiring is in good shape. I will have to look closer to see any burned wires. I don't have the tools required to do the continuity test as suggested but will see what I can come up with.

Question... is there any way to test the turn signal switch? other than what I have already done..
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

r4pinto

What I would recommend is to disconnect the turn signal switch. Next check the color of the wires at the connector for the light plug and check for continuity from point a (a being the plug that the turn signal switch plugs into) to point b ( b being the under hood connector where you disconnected the light socket plug. Also check for any signs of corrosion or burned insulation on the wiring. If you have a corroded plug that could cause that and if you have burned wiring insulation it's possible you have a burned wire that could cause the lights not to go blinky blinky.
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

Cookieboystoys

Quote from: 71 pintoracer on April 08, 2008, 05:17:16 PM
There is a connector at the base of the steering column from the turn signal switch. Could be a loose connection there. Also check the wires there for blinky blinky with your test light. White w/ light blue stripe right turn, light green w/ white stripe left turn. If nothing there, suspect turn signal switch.

OK so here's what I found out... I did find a White w/ light blue stripe wire and a light green w/ white stripe on the back right side of the connector pictured below. with the key forward and blinkers on = nothing - no blinky blinky

So I checked the ones in the front and found...

white with red (candy cane) stripe is on and dimm all the time with the key on

solid light blue that blinks with both right and left

blue with red stripe = blinks right

green with orange stripe = blinks left

Also... below the front parking light bulb there is a connector so I tested the wires going to it and with the parking lights one lights up and the other is dead - even with the blinker on

so... does this mean... turn signal switch???

It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

TIGGER

I had a similar issue with my Crusing Wagon however it was only the pass side that would not blink.  The parking lights worked just fine.  It ended up being the the socket.  Wiggling the wires that go into the socket while the blinkers were on got it to work but the connection was intermittant.  I installed a NOS bulb socket and the problem went away.  Also, check to make sure the sockets that plug into the main wiring harness are in good shape.
79 4cyl Wagon
73 Turbo HB
78 Cruising Wagon (sold 8/6/11)

Cookieboystoys

Quote from: 71 pintoracer on April 08, 2008, 05:17:16 PM
There is a connector at the base of the steering column from the turn signal switch. Could be a loose connection there. Also check the wires there for blinky blinky with your test light. White w/ light blue stripe right turn, light green w/ white stripe left turn. If nothing there, suspect turn signal switch.

Ooooo.... That gives me something to check. Thanks!
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

71pintoracer

There is a connector at the base of the steering column from the turn signal switch. Could be a loose connection there. Also check the wires there for blinky blinky with your test light. White w/ light blue stripe right turn, light green w/ white stripe left turn. If nothing there, suspect turn signal switch.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

Cookieboystoys

well... I don't have to feel stupid... I checked and both bulbs are in good shape and I used the test light...

I have constant power with parking lights on but still no blinky blinky with the turn signals  ???
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

dangerusdug

Stranger things have happened, like freak snow storms..

Cookieboystoys

Quote from: dangerusdug on April 07, 2008, 11:47:41 PM
??? Aren't the bulbs 2- filament ? 1 for parking light and one for blinker..

I would think so... be silly if it turned out they were ? both ? bad at the same time...

It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

dangerusdug

 ??? Aren't the bulbs 2- filament ? 1 for parking light and one for blinker..

r4pinto

hmmmm. sounds like it could be a wiring problem. I'd say to start by removing the bulbs & with the signals on check to see if there is any power when the signals are on. You could use a meter, but the light will actually show the blinking. The wiring diagram for the lighting in the manual is actually pretty good from what I remembered as it got the lights on the 78 working. It was so long ago I don't remember much about it, but I do remember it had some burned up wiring.
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

Cookieboystoys

Quote from: r4pinto on April 07, 2008, 11:25:01 PM
The flasher wouldn't cause that as it is basically just a relay to turn the signal lights on & off. If the rears are working but the fronts aren't then the flasher is ok.

that's what I thought...

Quote from: r4pinto on April 07, 2008, 11:25:01 PM
Do your front parking lights work?

yep... everything works except the front turn signals... no flash or blinky blinky
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!

r4pinto

hmm... sounds like a wiring problem I had with the 78 hatchback I used to have. The flasher wouldn't cause that as it is basically just a relay to turn the signal lights on & off. If the rears are working but the fronts aren't then the flasher is ok. Do your front parking lights work?
Matt Manter
1977 Pinto sedan- Named Harold II after the first Pinto(Harold) owned by my mom. R.I.P mom- 1980 parts provider & money machine for anything that won't fit the 80
1980 Pinto Runabout- work in progress

Cookieboystoys

I was checking all the lights and they all seem to work except...

the front turn signals  ???

with brakes on.. both rear work and fronts don't

no brakes.. both rear work and fronts don't

car isn't running when testing..

all marker lights work - head lights work - licence plate light works

nothing dims when checking any of the configurations of lights on/off..

everything works perfect except the front turn signal lights

I checked the 2 grounds right behind the front turn signals..

cleaned with a small wire wheel and made sure all is good..

still nothing... any ideas... flasher unit  ???
It's all about the Pintos! Baby!