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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

3:55 gearing, best option to change gearing for gas mileage & X-way

Started by Starliner, November 08, 2006, 08:08:32 PM

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billnall

Quote from: Starliner on December 07, 2006, 06:30:56 PM
There is not very much available ignition wise for the 1600...I heard from this site that the older Fiesta have a good ignition system for the 1600 if I could find one.  But there are no older cars in the rust belt and I would prefer something new or low mileage.  So I was going to try a Pertronix electronic ignition kit to retrofit my existing distributor.  (I only have 24875 miles)   Also I will add & rewire for a 12 volt coil.  Here is the link, however it's a maze to find items like the 4 cyl 12 volt coil:  http://www.pertronix.com/
I am surprised my present distributor curves out well with the dual vacuum advance to allow me to use the 87 octane without any spark knocking under most conditions.  If I advance it another 2 degrees or so I get light spark knocking across the board under load.   So I think it is dialed in pretty close. 
 

Hey Starliner

Check out this link.

http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/tfi.htm

Ford Parts Man
Bill

Pintony

Hello Dale,
A set of NEW valve stem seals would most likely be in order for your 2.0.
I have changed them many times using compressed air to hold the valves shut while using a spring compresser to remove the spring and change the seal.
A less techinical way is to bring the piston to TDC and push rope into the sparkplug hole to keep the valves from falling.
Makes a BIG difference!!
A nice afternoon of wrenching and the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
The new seals cost about the price of an oil change.
From Pintony

dale the pinto man

Thanks for the info Starliner. My car was purchased brand new in 72, and its been an Arizona car most of its life. I had the car stored for 20 years, only recently have I cleaned it up, like boiling out the gas tank, radiator, added a  new fuel pump, rebuilt the carburetor, you know all the little things one has to do to revive a car that has been stored that long. Actually, the car runs dam nice, I think it burns a little oil because it sat for so long, and beside from the sentimental value, its a 4 speed wagon with a straight body, a few dents; the car is white so the color has stood up very well.

Every where I go people come up to me and some ask what kind of car it is, and others talk about when they had one or new someone who did. I'm sure Starliner you get the same comments. I plan on adding some wheels, maybe get a repaint down the line and get around to a rebuild, heck, I even have airconditioning, something you gotta have out here in AZ. Let me know Starliner if you get that distributor mod that means no points to gap.

Regards,
Dale

Starliner

Hey Dale,
Before you consider rebuilding your motor I would evaluate the overall condition of your car.  At 140,000 miles make a list of everything that needs rebuilding or refurbishing.  How is....door hinges, interior, trans, front end, frame, rust, body, paint, rubber, rear axle, etc.    Now add that cost to your $2500.00 engine rebuild.  The conclusion may be that you can find a low mileage original car at a lower total cost than rebuilding everything.  If you have rust I would go the route of replacing the car. 

Regarding the engine rebuild, if you are having someone do all the work you might as well get them to do everything so they will guarantee everything.  I would also negotiate a 500 mile check up with them that would include an oil change, head re-torque, valve adjustment, and tune -up check.   When they rebuild the engine make sure they add hardened valve seats.  That will eliminate the need for any fuel additives. 

If you do decide to pull the motor yourself, consider having the engine rebuilt by a shop that specializes in the 2000 engine, even if it requires travel or shipping.  Then you know they have the experience. 

Myself I use no additives except during the engine rebuild process.  Usually cam break in lube.    For the engine start up I use Castrol GTX 20W-50 if it's warm or 10W-40 if it's cold.   When I fire the engine for the first time I run it around 2000 RPMs for 20 minutes.  (have a fan blowing at the radiator)   Then I idle it the minimum amount to set the timing & carb.   Let it cool for 20 minutes and check all fluids, bolts, etc and look everything over.  I then take it for a 30 minute drive staying near home if I have any problems. 
I then change the oil & filter and use the same weight oil again.   Then I drive it until I have 500 miles.   Retorque the heads, adjust the valves, and change the oil/filter.  At 3000 miles I switch over to synthetic oil.  I use 15W-50 Mobil 1, it protects the cam from wear and flows well even at low temperatures.   I then change the Mobil 1 oil every 4000 miles or 6 months.   I change my oil every 2-3 months because of the miles I put on.  (550 miles a week)   Thin oils are not good for 1600 & 2000 cams.  New cars are a different story. 

I have not used any fuel additives on my 60 & 70s cars and have been very lucky with having no valve problems.  I found the lead substitute additives leaves deposits that promote spark knock.  I would rather drive them until I have a problem, then pull the heads to add the hardened valve seats. 
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy

dale the pinto man

Starliner.
I have a 2.0. 72 wagon, 4 speed. I have 140,000 miles on the car. 20 years ago ,at about 100,000 miles a local ford dealership said they rebuilt my engine. I later found out that the timing belt took a crap, and the local honest ford dealer said I needed a new rebuild, Ha, Ha, the jokes on me. I don't know why I'm laughing. He put on a timing belt and sent me on my way 900 dollars lighter in the wallet, what a scam. Steam cleaning the engine was about as far as he got to a rebuild, what a crook. He had quite a scam going because a lot of 2.0 engines at 100,000 miles will give up the timing belt. And so the scam started with untold 100,s of Pinto owners falling for the scam. Oh well. But I digress, do you use any kind of additive? In lieu of unleaded gas? I do. Its called CD2, a lead substitute, Its cheep and one bottle will treat about 400 gallons.

Yesterday, I got a price for rebuilding my 2.0 at a machine shop. and they quoted me 2500 dollars, that includes pulling the engine and replacing, I think that is a fair price, What do you think? If I were to pull it, it would be 1700 bucks, I know its not to hard to pull but I'll probably let them do it.

Regards,
Dale

postalpony


    HEY STARLINER---GOOD LOOKIN' RIDE!!  I PONDERED PUTTING 93 TOPAZ 7 SPOKE

    ALLOY WHEELS ON MY '80, BUT MOMMA SAID TO KEEP MY GRUBBY FINGERS OFF

    HER BELOVED CAR!!!   SO I ORDERED A SET OF AMERICAN RACING  OUTLAW II

    WHEELS INSTEAD OF PROVOKING THE IRE OF MOMMA.


                                       KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK        DICK
1980 Hatchback was a "Postal Unit" on the
west coast in it's early life. Now residing
in Ohio, But we don't haul the U.S. Mail anymore;
Now all we do is HAUL!
5th gear 4700 rpm & still pullin'= 113+  mph

UPDATE-83.762 mph in 4th gear As verified by a W Va State Trooper-WITH 1 GEAR TO GO 6-2-11

Starliner

There is not very much available ignition wise for the 1600...I heard from this site that the older Fiesta have a good ignition system for the 1600 if I could find one.  But there are no older cars in the rust belt and I would prefer something new or low mileage.  So I was going to try a Pertronix electronic ignition kit to retrofit my existing distributor.  (I only have 24875 miles)   Also I will add & rewire for a 12 volt coil.  Here is the link, however it's a maze to find items like the 4 cyl 12 volt coil:  http://www.pertronix.com/
I am surprised my present distributor curves out well with the dual vacuum advance to allow me to use the 87 octane without any spark knocking under most conditions.  If I advance it another 2 degrees or so I get light spark knocking across the board under load.   So I think it is dialed in pretty close. 

Do you have a 1600 or 2000?  Stick or automatic?   
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy

dale the pinto man

Starliner,
You mentioned in your last post that you were getting some ignition parts, I assume you are going to update the old system, Could you tell me what you had in mind, how are you going to update the ignition system. I have a 72 probably need to do the same.
Dale

Starliner

This is just a daily driver that I am trying to get the best mileage & reliability for the lowest total price.   I got a kid in college, so no $$$ project cars for a while.   So I can justify a little fun trying to tweak it.   I now have the total invested cost around $3200.00.  This includes brakes, tires, cooling system, etc...   No car payments are great.    And with the all the maintenance items replaced and the low miles, it is reliable for my 110 mile a day drive. 
I can't drive it this week to get my latest mileage because we have been getting lake effects snow in the Detroit area.   I had to drive it through some salt spray yesterday for a few miles.   >:(  So I will hold back from driving until I get it the underside all washed and undercoated.   

Next week I will install the electric radiator fan (also from a Tempo) and maybe the electronic ignition.   I should then be able to gauge my mileage results. 
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy

Starliner

Yep, it's a sedan with a trunk.   It doesn't get any more plain Jane than this one.  It didn't even have a cigarette lighter! 
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy

77turbopinto

Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

Pintony

Quote from: Starliner on December 02, 2006, 04:41:52 PM
The 15 inch Tempo wheels and tires installed with minimal work!    The fronts with P195/65-15 tires went on with no issues.   The rears with P225/70-15 required some modifications on the passenger side.   I had to grind down the frame protrusion and hammer the inside wheel well in one location.  20 minutes work. 
It would look better with smaller tires on the back, but it does what I want from a gearing standpoint.  Now it drives nice without revving so much and smoother when I let off the gas.   Based on the original tire being an A-78-13 tire I now have a 21% change in gearing!   It now cruises nice on the freeway.   Next week I will see what mileage I can get.   I am trying to add a picture.


Hey Starliner,
Yes a very nice looking Pinto.
Is your sand color Pinto a Hatch Or trunk??

Looks like the joker Pinto I just bought before someone trashed the int and painted it purple.
Almost the same car. 1973 sand color W/1600 and 4/spd.
From Pintony

Starliner

Yes, these are Tempo 15 inch rims, not just hubcaps.   Even with smaller tires I think you would need to do the same modifications.   But it was very easy to do.  The earlier Tempo rims are 14 inch and not as wide.  I would guess that these could be installed with no modifications.       
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy

dale the pinto man

Starliner,
Your little Pinto looks great. Question, you mentioned Tempo wheels, I assume these are rims not hubcaps, you also stated that smaller tires on the back would look better, My question to you is, if you put the same tires on the back as the front would that save any modifying.
Dale

High_Horse

StarLiner, I have been riding on 225-14's on the back of my wagon for years and I mean to tell you it is like driving on a balloon. I had to make 2" spacers to get my wheels to clear the leaf springs and center in the wheel wells. oh!!!    Nice car.

                                                                                                                             High_Horse
                                                                                                                                #226
Started with a Bobcat wagon. Then a Cruising wagon. Now a Chocolate brown 77 wagon. I will enjoy this car for a long time. I'm in. High_Horse

73pintogeek

Hey Starliner,
I think they look great! Nice lookin` little pony too!
Rex
A bad day workin` on my Pinto is better than a good day at work!

Starliner

The 15 inch Tempo wheels and tires installed with minimal work!    The fronts with P195/65-15 tires went on with no issues.   The rears with P225/70-15 required some modifications on the passenger side.   I had to grind down the frame protrusion and hammer the inside wheel well in one location.  20 minutes work. 
It would look better with smaller tires on the back, but it does what I want from a gearing standpoint.  Now it drives nice without revving so much and smoother when I let off the gas.   Based on the original tire being an A-78-13 tire I now have a 21% change in gearing!   It now cruises nice on the freeway.   Next week I will see what mileage I can get.   I am trying to add a picture.
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy

oldkayaker

I never considered trying front wheel drive rims for fear of excessive back spacing.  Please post results of the Tempo rim installation.

According to the shop manual, there were several different tire sizes released for useage in the 1973 Pinto as follows: A78-13, 6.00-13, A70-13, 175-13, 175R-13.  Another way to fix the speedometer after a gear/tire change is to use odometer as the calibration point (assumes your speedometer is internally working properly).  Take the car to a road marked with mileage signs and drive a good distance to get more accurate readings (say 50 miles).  Record the distance traveled by what the mileage markers say and what your odometer says.  Divide the odometer distance by the mileage marker distance and multiply the result by the number of teeth on your speedometer gear.  The product should be the number of teeth needed to get your speedometer read closer to the real number.  Normally the product is not a whole number.  If the number is close to xx.5, I round down so that the speedometer reads a little high (helps avoid speeding tickets).
Jerry J - Jupiter, Florida

Starliner

Thanks for all the responses & gearing offers.
 
I bought some 15" Tempo wheels and some 225/70-15 tires to start with.   It gets me better looking wheels & tires and a wider patch for handling.  I wanted to do that anyway.   That will put me at 2830 RPMs at 65MPH.   That is a lot better than the present 3431 RPM's at 65 MPH.   That should net me an 18% to 21% gear reduction.   
I will put them on this weekend and see how they perform next week.  By the way, the Tempo rims fit perfect including the center hub.   Hopefully I will not have any tire clearance issues.   
I will use my tach to reference my freeway speeds.   Later I will do some exact calculations to determine the percentage of gear reduction from the original speedometer so I can get the distance traveled correct for fuel economy calculations.    I heard the original 73 Pinto had A-78-13 tires.  Is that true?   I need to know that to figure out the original tire diameter that was designed for the speedometer.   

Next weekend I will install the electric radiator cooling fan. 
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy

77turbopinto

IMHO: Anything taller than a 3.55 with the 1.6 will mean that you won't be able to use 4th gear much. The car won't have the power to move with the taller gears, and that won't help milage. Both my 79's had 2.3 4spd 2.73's and were slugs taking off, and needed to be downshifted at highway speeds all the time (how does yours do now?). Have you thought about going to a 5spd? I never had a 1.6, but I have been told the bells are the same as a 2.0, and a 2.3 bell will bolt to a 2.0 (some mod. needed, but very do-able). If this is true, a 3.55 and the .81 OD will give you a 2.875 final drive in 5th and 4th will be the same as you have now. You might need to go down to 4th often, but you won't have the issues off the line and you will have a choice at higher speeds.

Bill
Thanks to all U.S. Military members past & present.

huckster

Starliner, i have 2:73 and 3:18 sets of gears i would consider trading for your 3:55 gears. Steve

postalpony

Hello starliner
I have a couple of formulas that work very well, what you need are the following elements. rpm, mph, loaded tire radius, & final drive gear ratio.
if you are using a t5 or other trans that uses an od top gear make sure that
you use that value  [as .79 od in t5] to get actual ratio.

To get MPH take RPM X loaded tire radius, divided by final gear ratio X 168.

To get RPM take MPH X final gear ratio X 168 divided by loaded tire radius.

This will also help in knowing speedometer errors. Let me know if this helps.

                                                postalpony

   
1980 Hatchback was a "Postal Unit" on the
west coast in it's early life. Now residing
in Ohio, But we don't haul the U.S. Mail anymore;
Now all we do is HAUL!
5th gear 4700 rpm & still pullin'= 113+  mph

UPDATE-83.762 mph in 4th gear As verified by a W Va State Trooper-WITH 1 GEAR TO GO 6-2-11

Starliner

I found a very simple online calculator that determines tire sizes & gear ratio engine RPMs.
Here is the link: //http://www.differentials.com/calc.html   
Now I am driving about 60-65 mph and really want to be cruising at 75 mph I may need something around 2:73!
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy

Starliner

Thanks for all the great information.  I will post some pictures later. (need to borrow the company camera!)

I am considering first trying some 92 15" Tempo wheels and machine some hub adapters so the wheels are supported & centered properly.  Then I can get increased tire diameter without having the sidewalls too tall.  After I get that going I will figure out what to do with the gearing.  The 3:18 with the taller tires may be the trick. 
 
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy

fast34

If you want to go with electronic dist. , then go to a wrecking yard, and ask for one out of a mid 70's Ford Fiesta.  They will drop right in, use a standard Ford ign box, and I got the one I used for $30.  I would go with the 3.18 if you don't have alot of hills to go up.  As you know, the 1600 is NO powerhouse.  You can also get the intake/carb setup off the Fiesta that uses a progressive 2 barrel to get alittle more zip with no mileage loss.

cromcru

my list of ratio's for a 6.75 rearend are 3.55,3.40,3.18,3.08 and 2.73 this list excludes ratio's from the ford falcon,maverik, comet and such.i hope this helps :sorry:
79 bobcat  78 ford pinto station wagon   93 ford mustang lx   90 ford mustang cont lx  63 chevy truck    52 studebaker 2r16a

Pintony

Hello Starliner,
I think the next gear down is a 3.18 in a factory 6.75 rear Pinto pumpkin.
Somebody  :stop: me if I have lost my way???
Has been a while since I toyed with the NON 8" rear...
From Pintony
P.S. Do you have any photoss of your 1.6 Pinto...

Starliner

I have a 1973 1600 stick Pinto with 23,000 original miles.   I am now using it as a daily driver and racking up the miles fast.  I travel 108 miles a day through the rough & tumble roads of Detroit.  I get 29-35 miles per gallon with 80% of my drive on the freeway using BP 87 gas.  No spark knocking even under load even with a 195 T-stat.  I am surprised of the good gas mileage because the motor really buzzes.  It is running somewhere around 3400 RPM at 65 mph.   What gear ratios are available that would fit into my existing axle housing?   Right now it is a 3:55

2nd question:
I may try taller tires, but that sure would screw up my cornering and only make a slight gear ratio change.  If I do,  where can I find a selection of stick shift speedometer gears to compensate for the tire diameter change. 

Sidenote:  Next week I will be adding a NOS electric fan assembly from a Tempo.  $23.00 ebay-YES!   The fan will hardly ever come on since we are in the cool weather season.    That should really help with the motor buzzing all those RPMs.  Next will be electronic ignition and a 12 volt coil (Petronix) followed by some distributor curving.   I sure would like to approach 35-40 MPG by this spring doing some modifications with minimal cost. 
1973 Pinto 1600 - Sold!  
1979 Pinto 2300 - Sold!
1984 Audi 5000 Avant - 60,000 original miles
1987 Audi 5000 S Quattro - The snowmobile
1973 Volvo 1800 ES wagon -  my project car
1976 Mustang II - Wifey's new toy