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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

lube chassis question

Started by renton481, June 08, 2006, 07:36:07 AM

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goodolboydws

I hope that you take to heart paying attention to the safety aspects of car repair/maintenance right from the start. It's easiest to continue if you start out that way.  Some people never learn to do that. The lucky ones get away with a lot, but it usually catches up with them.

Doing your own repairs and car maintenance can be very rewarding both financially and in the sense of accomplishment that is derived from doing ANY job that many people these days either can't or won't even attempt, and I try to encourage every person who is interested, to give it an honest attempt.

Many of the folks who have weighed in are giving you some of their hard earned advice, to hopefully prevent mistakes others have made, but part of that advice also comes from the realization that nobody knows it all when they start, AND NONE OF US EVER DO, so try not to feel intimidated when you tackle something new.

I know that sometimes it can be hard to come up money to buy decent tools and safety stuff, and that there will always be some "creative engineering" that happens every time you have to make another tool work when the perfect one isn't available, but as long as you stay alert, aware, and concerned, you'll do fine. It's the cocky ones and old hands who have done something too many times without adverse consequences that get nonchalant and suffer the results when their luck runs out.

My 80 year old, well experienced woodworking step father just proved that a couple of months ago, when he took off the end of his thumb on the same tablesaw that he has used for many years. He was the first to admit how stupid he was for doing something unsafely, just to save time that particular day.

When you get in a hurry, (and it happens a lot, not just when working around cars) and as the years pile up, continue to ask yourself this:  Is saving a few minutes or dollars worth not doing it the right or safe way? Bottom line: What is your physical condition, general health, or life itself worth to YOU? It ought to be more than a few minutes or dollars.

renton481

Well, I got a couple of ramps, I figured they'd be safer for me to use right now than the jackstands.

Decided to wait until I get a unibody adaptor before using the jack, if I'm going to do it, I am going to do it right.

Thanks for all your advice guys. 

And thanks for the offer, Farmboy.  I may take you up on it some time.

wantapinto

AMEN on jack stands....At a shop in Colorado in the 1970's I was there when a Volvo fell off a jack with a Mech under the car. Bellhousing Crushed his scull. Dead instantly. Since then I have had MANY techs mad at me at work when I make a big deal when they do not use stands.

And yes get some ramps. I know they are a pain in the butt to drive up on...just jack the car up and slide them under the wheels. When in front face the ramps backwards if you need to pull a trans or work in that area....you won't run in to the ramps with your creeper or arms ect.

Don't be afaid of doing this Just use you head and be careful. After the car is up...push a little side ways on the car and make sure it is stable before you get under it. If the stands creak or rock find out why!! Some cheap stands rock back and forth when extended up to far...Get better stands.

I know some of you are rolling your eyes...seeing a dead guy can make you think...It is my pet pieve when working on cars.

Watch Nascar.....Those guys still use stands when tenths of seconds can lose a race...They still use stands.

Well back to the cave...Bye,,Dave
1972 Pinto.  Disc brakes, Blue,

imhoppy

Man just to reiterate what G.O.B.said in his last line of his post.NEVER ,EVER,EVER,RELY ON A HYDRULIC JACK TO SUPPORT THE CAR WHILE YOU UNDER IT.
Years back one of my buddies did just that.When a O-ring failed in his floor jack.Thank god the tires were still on the car.
He was under the rear part of the car checking out the rear seal on the tranny.The car came down on him and the lower mounting bolts on the shock squished his shoulder.There was no way he would ever get out.Luckily for him his girlfriend was in the house.She came a running when she heard him yelping.
She was able to get a bottle jack to lift the car off just enough to slide out.Nothing was broken but man did he have one hell of a six colored bruise.
I cant speak for all you,But when i imagine trying to tell my wife where to find a bottle jack and how to work it with 3000 pnds sitting on my chest it makes my butt pucker.
So next time you say to yourself "It will only take a second"  think about if if his fat head was under the shock bolts.  R.I.P. Mike

goodolboydws

Using a common floor jack, you CAN jack from under the lower suspension arms, or from under the spring mounts on the rear axle. The center of the rear axle spring mounts can also be used as reasonably safe jack stand locations when stands are used as a pair. BUT, BE VERY CAREFUL ABOUT JACK PLACEMENT, AS INCORRECT PLACEMENT AT EITHER OF THESE LOCATIONS, ESPECIALLY THE LOWER CONTROL ARMS, CAN ALLOW THE CAR TO SLIP OFF THE JACK OR JACK SATNDS.  There is frequently oil, dirt and grease on these areas, and there can be protruding bolt heads that make it difficult to fit a jack saddle into, so a wood block is commonly used on top of the saddle as an adaptor. The wood will crush somewhat to help keep the jack sadle from slipping out of position, but this is a do at your own risk type of operation. If you aren't comfortable doing it, DON'T.

There are a couple of other places that can be used as well, but these are the safest alternate places to use without having a unibody jack adapter.

There is a slotted steel unibody adapter available for under $20. and a flat, thick rubber pad top one as well (that is more expensive) from Eastwood (and probably other places).They have a centered, welded on pin to go where the original saddle was being retained. These can permanently replace or be used as a slip in alternate for the round swiveling saddle on most consumer level trolley type floor jacks. The rubber topped one is to protect paint when lifting something whose finish you might not want to mar.

The bare steel ones are about 6 inches long, made of tough rectangular steel tubing about 2-1/2" wide by an inch or so high and slotted down their length so that they can receive the vertical folded seam of many unibody cars. They don't lift from the edge of the seam, but from the horizontal metal in front of and behind but immediately adjacent to the vertical seam.

Basically, the upper surface of the adapters is flat, so that they can be used on any horizontal surface and when used that way, they spread the load over a larger area than a standard saddle. This is useful for certain specialized applications, such as lifting an engine from the oil pan to help align motor mounts, and safer than placing something loosely on top of a standard jace. 

I most often use one of several of the steel type (but deeper ones that I made) to lift cars from other than the manufacturers recomended jacking places and then support the cars from the recommended spots, using the same type of adaptors on top of heavy duty jack stands.

Unbelievably, many repair shops STILL do not have adaptors for their post type lifts (or simply don't use them) or have older lifts or jacks that are not designed for unibody lifting and will commonly lift some unibody cars directly from the rockers, locally distorting or crushing them, or from the standing seam, and then bending the seam to the point that it can't be easily used with the original jack.

An important thing to remember on ANY unibody car (that is one without a separate and accessible frame), is that you can quickly, easily and severely damage the support structure of the car by trying to jack or support it from a place that cannot spread the weight and stress over a large area.

VERY IMPORTANT:
If you ever take your car in somewhere that they will be lifting it, make a big show of inspecting the car  along the rockers both BEFORE and afterwards for damage that may be caused by this improper type of lifting/supporting BEFORE you leave their premises. Once you leave, they are off the hook for any damage.

When I first started working on cars, I used ramps much of the time, to minimize jacking. This might be something that would make your life easier for certain jobs that have to be done repeatedly, such as oil changes and for elevation-when a wheel doesn't have to come off.  The newer ones are plastic, but some of the better steel ones have removeable inclines (and both front and rear tire "stops"), so that they are easier to work around.

NEVER, EVER LEAVE THE VEHICLE SUPPORTED ONLY BY A JACK WHILE YOU WORK ON IT.

Farmboy

   Renton,  If you need help in the areas of working on your car I would be glad to make a road trip to your place to give you a hand. My pinto needs some hiway miles anyway ;D
  I do what the voices in my Pinto tell me to do




74 Pinto Wagon
71 Runabout (parts car)

renton481

thanks for the advice, guys.  It's very helpful.

b.t.w. I know about the 'hardpoints' on the rocker panels that are intended for jacking up a Pinto -- but are there also other places you can use to jack the car up? 

I just got a floor jack and some jackstands, and don't want to wreck the car.  Are the hardpoints the only place you can place jackstands?

goodolboydws



Suspension, not really. Steering and running gear, yes.

Look closely at the outer tie rod ends. Some have Zerk (gresase gun) fittings, other have grease PLUGS that have to be removed before grease in added, then reinstalled afterwards,  (those look like the bottom half of a Zerk fitting) and still others (called lubed-for-life) are sealed and have no provision for greasing. The third type is getting more common every year as OEM equipment on the newer cars, and some aftermarket ones follow suit.

Now look at the driveshaft universal joints. Those may also be any of the 3 types.
You could also check the wheel bearings while you're at it, to see if any are loose and need to be snugged up, or worn and need replacing. . That's about it, Pintos are really simple to keep up with in this regard.

Since you're in a grease-it mode anyway, you may want to go over the whole car now and not have to do it piecemeal later. Use white lithium grease on all of the door hinges and striker pins, hood latch and hood hinges, trunk/liftgate hinges, etc., and then squirt some liquid graphite into the the door lock mechanisms.  The easiest way to apply the white lithium grease and NOT make a big mess, is by using a light touch and a spray can with a nozzle extension.

When you get to the door hinges, you can check for excessive hinge/hinge pin wear by slowly closing each door while keeping the door handle button pushed in. If the door hinge is worn, the latch will bump into the striker pin before the door is fully closed, instead of sliding completely over it, and the door will be a bit low on the rear end. You can compensate for a little wear by shutting the doors more forcefully, but if there is a lot of wear, the door latch will be carrying a lot of the doors' weight and the striker pin will develop a groove on the top side.
You can usually adjust the hinge somewhat or shim the lower hinge sometimes, but the only sure long term cure for door sag from a worn hinge pin is to replace the hinge or pin if you can find a pin/bushing kit.

renton481

I haven't tried lubing the car yet -- I did find the ball joint seals this afternoon, and when I felt them they felt hollow or empty.  I was certain I had the car lubed late last year -- Should I be feeling something underneath the seals?

Are there any other areas of the suspension, aside from the ball joints, that I should lube with grease?

Pintony

Hello renton481,
Watch the rubber seal for bulging.
Try not to make the seal pop. Usually 1or 2 pumps with a standard gun will do the trick.
From Pintony

renton481

I'd like to lube the chassis on the pinto, I think it probably needs it -- I've only lubed a vehicle once before, that was seven years ago, when a mechanic showed me how to do it.  

Since then I've forgotten how much lube/grease you're supposed to apply.

Can anybody give me any hints as to how to lube your car?