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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Need a second opinion

Started by pinto_chris, May 18, 2006, 12:03:21 PM

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pinto_chris

well I am pretty sure it's the centrifugal advance because I tried 2 different vacuum advance assemblies and both of them did the same thing. Anyway, last night I pulled the distributor apart to look at the springs and they seemed a little loose, well to me anyway, plus the cam lobe for the points seems a little worn so I think I'd feel better just getting a new one, I'd end up messing the curve up completely if I tried cutting the springs. Thanks again everybody, Chris.
1973 ford pinto wagon
1966 amc rambler 
1985 Mercedes 300 D, powered by used vegtable oil.
  hey I like being different! stop laughing now damn it or I'll sick the penguins on you !

goodolboydws

Here's a no cost alternative to new advance springs for the distributor.

If you're careful, you can probably either snip off a coil or 2 at a time from one or both springs and reform the ends, (which will make the springs stiffer), or just bend the retaining tabs for the advance springs slightly outwards to put more pressure on them. (It's possible that one or both of the springs may have broken, which would be givving you full centrifugal advance at much too low of a distributor rpm.)

Also, on many distributors, each spring is unique, so if you do any changes to the springs, be careful to only take one off at a time so that you know which goes where. Mis-matching the springs and weights can dramatically change the centrifugal advance curve from what it is supposed to be, and can make street driving more difficult (if the advance happens too soon), and/or waste gas (if the advance happens too late). 

I'm not certain on this particular distributor, but concerning vacuum advance units in general:
there is also frequently a spring and some spacer washers inside of the vacuum unit. They are there to calibrate the amount of total advance and WHEN it comes in.  You could slow down WHEN the vacuum advance takes place and limit the total there by making the tension greater and or limiting the total travel available there also.

To see which is the bigger problem, run the engine with the vacuum advance detatched, and then very slowly accelerate while watching the timing marks, to see the total advance coming from the centrifugal advance, and WHEN it starts and at what rpm it reaches maximum.  You will also then have something to compare against after making any distributor parts adjustments/changes. 
Since you most likely do not have a custom timing tape on the dampener or the pulley that has the refernce timing mark, you will probably have to make some scratches, use tape or make paint marks on the crank mounted part that lines up with the timing "comb" to have an accurate idea of how much the 2 separate advance mechanisms are advancing the timing.

Happy wrenchin'.

dirt track demon

you can get new springs and weights from NAPA. Its called a curve kit  or an advance kit.  I just bought a set for the race car last week, $6.79 i think.
Favorite place to race:on the xbox

Fomoco's biggest achievement:
The PINTO!!

Fomoco's biggest mistake:
Not offering a V-8 Pinto!!!!!!!

pinto_chris

 I've narrowed it down to be an ignition problem now, when I got off work today I borrowed a friends light and double checked the timing and it was doing the same deal, so then I tried to narrow it down some more and retarted the timing to the point where it would barely idle ( I think it was about 10 or so degrees atdc, I am not positive though because the marks stop at three. anyway I took it for a quick drive and presto the problem was gone ( upper rpm anyway, it ran like crap at anything under 2000), so I guess it's getting way to much centrifugal advance, those springs in there where out in time I am guessing, anyway thanks a bunch everbody I guess I am off to find a distributor.
1973 ford pinto wagon
1966 amc rambler 
1985 Mercedes 300 D, powered by used vegtable oil.
  hey I like being different! stop laughing now damn it or I'll sick the penguins on you !

goodolboydws

If you actually are getting an inconsistant spark, (this may or may not be the case, if evidenced only by the non-steady flashing from your timing light, which ITSELF may be defective), it would seem that trying to isolate where the inconsistency of spark is originating should be the first thing to determine.

First thing that I would try is to borrow someone else's timing light to double check the inconsistant spark situation. 

If the second timing light gives similar results, then you need to determine precisely where the electrical miss is coming from.

You said that when you "...stomp on it, it pulls fine."  Also that "it runs like crap when cold" That, coupled with a possible electrical spark miss you may be picking up, indicates to me that you may have a situation where you are getting too much spark advance. So much advance in fact, that the timing is overadvanced.

I'd suspect that either the initial timing is off first, or that either the vacuum advance or centrifugal advance are allowing too much advance for some reason.  You mentioned that you've already checked for a possible timing error stemming from the timing belt, i.e., that the campulley to crank pulley relationship is incorrect. It might be worth rechecking, if only  to see that your tensioner isn't so tired that it is allowing the crank pulley to pull a lot of belt (by compressing the tensioner) before the cam pulley moves.

From your description of the symptoms, an overadvancing timing situation may also be happening from too much ACTIVE distributor spark advance (i.e. centrifugal or vacuum advance) rather than from the crank to cam relationship being inorrect, or from too much initial advance. 

My reasoning is as follows:
When an engine is run at very small throttle openings, especially when it is significantly above idle speed, with no load on the engine,  the vacuum advance is designed to be near to it's maximum set adjustment.  BUT, when you floor the accelerator pedal on many older engines,  you instantly drop the distributor's vacuum advance to zero vacuum advance(or close to zero, anyway), and are then for a time are running the engine on centrifucal advance ONLY, until the engine gains enough power that you back off on the throttle, at which point the vacuum advance rapidly climbs.

For example, let's say that your initial timing is set at 6 degrees BTDC, with no vacuum advance and at idle speed.
The centrifugal advance on a four cylinder engine will probably be something in the neighborhood of 10-20 or so additional degrees. Let's choose 20 degrees, just for the heck of it. That would make a total of 26 degrees BTDC so far.

Now comes the vacuum advance.
Let's say that it too has a maximum advance of 10-20 degrees. Let's choose 20 degrees.

So you add this second 10-20 degrees to the 26 degrees BDTC that the centrifugal advance had already given you and what happens? Now you potentially have a total spark advance of as much as 46 degrees BTDC, when the engine is at a high vacuum state.

You also said that when you run on centrifugal advance ONLY, it still does it, but not as bad as when the vacuum advance is hooked up.

That says to me that:
1. your initial timing is off quite a bit (maybe you are looking at the timing marks themeselves incorrectly?)  or
2. that the cam to crank timing is off; or
3. that the problem actually has nothing to do with the timing or the distributor, (that you timing light is somehow defective and is indicating an electrical miss that is actually not happening), and it is really a carburetor/incorrect-amount-of-fuel-suppllied-during-certain situations-problem. If so, that would also explain why changing the gas and adding octane booster had no effect.

In. re. carburetors:
It's quite possible for some of a carburetors' circuits to function properly, while others do not. foe example, the idle circuit seems to be working here, and also the power circuit, but at an intermediate power requirement situation, (like when the accelerator PUMP is supposed to be just starting to work, or when the secondary's throttle plate is barely opening) there may be a problem.... (This might just be a linkage out of position or an accelerator pump problem, or may be a partially plugged up carburetor.)

BTW, you mentioned a high speed engine miss. This type of miss would be there at high engine speeds, which would of necessity require a larger throttle opening, but if the engine is NOT under load (like when the car is not moving) on many engines, this high engine speed can be achieved without using the secondaries much , IF AT ALL, so IF your engine really has a high speed miss, try to determine if the miss is there when the engine is under load and not under load.
When the car is at the curb, you can look down the venturis to see if the primary and secondary are open, while reving the engine to the point that the miss shows up. Then, if the secondary is closed, manually crack it open a bit to see if the miss goes away. Perhaps the screw for setting the "rest" position for the secondary throttle plate has vibrated and the secondary plate stop needs to moved slightly in the direction of a more open position. Or the plate may resist moving from it's stop for some reason. Eliminating this as a potential problem may help eliminate a "lag" when trying to slowly accelerate.

Gaslight

If I remember correctly its suppose to be a 750 rpm.  But if the car is not in drive warmed up at that RPM then you are at the wrong place anyways.  Sounds like maybe your timing gun is having a connection problem.  Or the spark to your number one is going goofy.

Jake
My new answering machine message:   
"I am not available right now, but thank you for caring enough to call.
I am making some changes in my life.  Please leave a message after the beep.
If I do not return your call, you are one of the changes."

pinto_chris

When I had checked the timing it was with the advance disconnected and the idle turned down ( I think I had it at about 600) and it was warmed up. one thing I did notice though when I was setting the timing was that the light didn't seem steady, it seemed every few times it would flash their would be a pause. You don't think it would be a fuel problem do you, because I allways thought that if it was something to do with the timing or distributor it wouldn't be fine when I punch it. I guess I am just thinking to much about it or something ( stupid boring work)
1973 ford pinto wagon
1966 amc rambler 
1985 Mercedes 300 D, powered by used vegtable oil.
  hey I like being different! stop laughing now damn it or I'll sick the penguins on you !

Gaslight

To be honest I would have to look at my valve cover tonight.  I don't remember the exact number for the dwell but it is at idle.  If you have an automatic you need to disconnect the vacuum advance and put the car in drive with the emergency brake on when setting the timing and the warm idle.  Make sure it is warmed up when you do it.  Usually the bearings will go bad in the distrubutor housing before anything else.  When look thorugh the timing light you will see the timing mark jumping around.  Also check the ground wire under the cap for the points to the housing.  If its bad it could cause this.

Jake
My new answering machine message:   
"I am not available right now, but thank you for caring enough to call.
I am making some changes in my life.  Please leave a message after the beep.
If I do not return your call, you are one of the changes."

pinto_chris

I have a dwell meter and I checked it yesterday and it seems ok right around 40, but I don't think I ran it all the way up to 3000 when I was doing it so I will check that when I get home, what is it supposed to be at and if the distributor is bad will the dwell fluctuate or what? Any ideas on why it gets worse with the vacuum advance connected? The only thing that makes me think it might be the distributor is it is just about the only thing I haven't replaced lately and a couple people I spoke to ( although they where C@#%y guys) said it sounded like the distributor. Also I don't  think this has anything to do with it but it runs like crap when it's cold, but I think that's because my choke is disconnected.
1973 ford pinto wagon
1966 amc rambler 
1985 Mercedes 300 D, powered by used vegtable oil.
  hey I like being different! stop laughing now damn it or I'll sick the penguins on you !

Gaslight

Do you have the ability to check timing dwell while the engine is running?

Jake
My new answering machine message:   
"I am not available right now, but thank you for caring enough to call.
I am making some changes in my life.  Please leave a message after the beep.
If I do not return your call, you are one of the changes."

pinto_chris

That was one of the first things I checked, any other ideas?
1973 ford pinto wagon
1966 amc rambler 
1985 Mercedes 300 D, powered by used vegtable oil.
  hey I like being different! stop laughing now damn it or I'll sick the penguins on you !

Gaslight

What are the chances that your timing belt jumped a tooth?

Jake
My new answering machine message:   
"I am not available right now, but thank you for caring enough to call.
I am making some changes in my life.  Please leave a message after the beep.
If I do not return your call, you are one of the changes."

pinto_chris

alright, my car has developed a high speed miss and I think its the distributor but I want to get a second opinion before I go out and blow 60 more dollars on a motor I don't want to keep much longer  , pretty much what it's doing is it will miss fire and hesitate a lot anywhere from 3000 rpm and up, especially if I am just barely on the gas and excelerating slowly or cruising, but if I stomp on it it pulls fine. I've replaced all the tune up stuff ( plugs, points, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter) and it still does it. I've also checked the timing 10 times and it is set right on (6 degrees), I also tried different gas and octane booster but it didn't make any difference. Also it will do it about twice as bad with the vacuum advance hooked up so I've been having to drive with it disconnected. thanks in advance everyone, Chris. Also has anyone installed the pertronix kit on a 2.0, if so should I try and get one of those or would that even help if my distributor is shot?
1973 ford pinto wagon
1966 amc rambler 
1985 Mercedes 300 D, powered by used vegtable oil.
  hey I like being different! stop laughing now damn it or I'll sick the penguins on you !