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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

TECH TIPS

Started by dick1172762, December 24, 2016, 10:39:00 AM

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one2.34me

Thanks Dick for all these tech tips and tricks you are taking the time to write down. This thread is "bookmarked" and greatly appreciated! You are passing out 65 years of what we called "tribal knowledge" on the floor. Priceless!

dick1172762

Think you need a hotter spark in your Pinto? Maybe yes / maybe no! Factory Ford ignition now days are pretty good but only if in good shape. What goes bad you ask? Plug wires are the most often poor or really bad item bar none. How do you know you ask. One way is to start you engine up outside on a dark night. I've seen plug wires light up like X-mas lights. If your plug wires came on your Pinto, they are JUNK by now. In the good ole days we used solid core plug wires made by Packard 440. But NOT today! Will not work with todays ignition at all. For street or racing you need good wires like MSD sells. As big in diameter as you can find. 8MM or bigger! What else do you need? A really good coil like a Ford E-coil. I get these out of a junk yard and have never seen one go bad. 4 cylinder or 460 V-8 are all the same. Stock car racers use them almost 100% of the time because their cheap and work oh so good. Next on a race car or hoped up street car, you need a MSD module box like the 6AL or 6T. NO 7 box's please as there not made for long running trip on the street. Drag racing only. I have seen the MSD box's run a engine with the ground electrode on the plugs burnt off. Just never grab one that's live. It'll roll your socks down. BTW no 16 volt car battery's as the MSD's go up in smoke with them. With these 3 items you should be set to do any thing that's legal with a Pinto. These mods are what I've done for the past 40 or years that MSD has been mfg them. Good stuff! Good people! BTW what you do with this tech tip is up to you. I'm only telling you what I've done in the past.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Ford use to run an ad back in the early 70's that 90% (I think) of the maintenance on a Pinto could be done with a dime. In my 82 years, I must say the Pinto is far and away the easiest car to work on ever made. I think Pinto-one will agree on this statement.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

1972 Wagon

I enjoyed reading your bio, Dick. What an interesting career and racing experiences you have had. Too bad that many members of the younger generation do not have your work ethic. I now understand the source of your tech tips on how to modify/ improve a Pinto's performance. As pinto_one can attest, I have no mechanical ability as he is always willing to write step-by-step instructions for me on how to do minor repairs on my Pinto. I may never use the tech tips you share, but I do enjoy reading them, even if I don't always understand them!
*The Original Family Car: A 1972 Pinto Wagon*
Ordered by my folks from Bunnell Motor Company, Inc., Bunnell, Florida
Delivered: June 20, 1972
Entrusted to my care: August 1976

Pintosopher

Quote from: dick1172762 on March 01, 2017, 10:03:18 AM
How did I learn all of this stuff? Well it started a long time ago in a far off land in El Paso, Texas. I had just joined the USAF and I was stationed with several hot roders from la la land. In 1953 I went to work part time at the only hot rod shop in El Paso. I did the engine balancing and general flunkey work. 53 and 54 I was on the pit crew for the shop's race cars in the Mexican road race. In three years we never finished even one race. In 1958 I was transferred to Charleston, SC. Nascar land! Went to work for a new team racing Oldsmobile 88's. Stayed there building engines till 1962 when I went to work for a team racing year old 61 Fords. Same job building engines and I was the one that put on the decals and lettering on the race cars. I also had to trim the leading edge of the decals to a 45 deg angle. Nascar racers worry about drag very much. 1963 I went to work with Zantop airlines as a mechanic in Salt Lake City. 1964 off to the salt flats with my 427 63 Ford. 20 mph slow at 145 mph. Oh well it was fun though. 1965 moved to Dallas, Tx to work for Texas Instruments. Started drag racing. At that time there were 10 strips with in 100 mile radius of Dallas. Built my first road race car (1969 Boss 302 Mustang).Stayed there for 20 years till I went to work for Rockwell International in Denver. Worked there on the H bomb for 11 years. At the same time I was road racing my 72 Pinto that I had started in 1975. Then a 80 Pinto. Then a 83  RX-7. This went on till 1995 when I sold my 72 Pinto. Moved back to Dallas then and went autocrossing with another RX-7 and another 80 Pinto that I still have. 2001 moved to Arkansas to work for Pratt & Whitney but that went down the tube after 9-11. Went back to Dallas to work at Bell Helicopter when I was 77 years old. I worked in the Metrology Lab. Stayed there till I retired in 2013. So much for the ole story of companys not hiring senior over 50. Now I'm back in Arkansas at 82, retired, and still working on my Pinto. So you see, I had 65 years to gather up those tech tips.
I now must bow to the eastern horizon, for that is where all the classic Motorhead knowledge has moved, GRM/Classic Motorsports magazine,and now The story of the sage elder of Pinto master and his many apprenticeships. For my history pales in comparison, and I feel positively adolescent in my Knowledge. My Automotive complexion has yet to clear up, and the solution is engaging the sport again. :o
Yes, it is possible to study and become a master of Pintosophy.. Not a religion , nothing less than a life quest for non conformity and rational thought. What Horse did you ride in on?

Check my Pinto Poems out...

dick1172762

How did I learn all of this stuff? Well it started a long time ago in a far off land in El Paso, Texas. I had just joined the USAF and I was stationed with several hot roders from la la land. In 1953 I went to work part time at the only hot rod shop in El Paso. I did the engine balancing and general flunkey work. 53 and 54 I was on the pit crew for the shop's race cars in the Mexican road race. In three years we never finished even one race. In 1958 I was transferred to Charleston, SC. Nascar land! Went to work for a new team racing Oldsmobile 88's. Stayed there building engines till 1962 when I went to work for a team racing year old 61 Fords. Same job building engines and I was the one that put on the decals and lettering on the race cars. I also had to trim the leading edge of the decals to a 45 deg angle. Nascar racers worry about drag very much. 1963 I went to work with Zantop airlines as a mechanic in Salt Lake City. 1964 off to the salt flats with my 427 63 Ford. 20 mph slow at 145 mph. Oh well it was fun though. 1965 moved to Dallas, Tx to work for Texas Instruments. Started drag racing. At that time there were 10 strips with in 100 mile radius of Dallas. Built my first road race car (1969 Boss 302 Mustang).Stayed there for 20 years till I went to work for Rockwell International in Denver. Worked there on the H bomb for 11 years. At the same time I was road racing my 72 Pinto that I had started in 1975. Then a 80 Pinto. Then a 83  RX-7. This went on till 1995 when I sold my 72 Pinto. Moved back to Dallas then and went autocrossing with another RX-7 and another 80 Pinto that I still have. 2001 moved to Arkansas to work for Pratt & Whitney but that went down the tube after 9-11. Went back to Dallas to work at Bell Helicopter when I was 77 years old. I worked in the Metrology Lab. Stayed there till I retired in 2013. So much for the ole story of companys not hiring senior over 50. Now I'm back in Arkansas at 82, retired, and still working on my Pinto. So you see, I had 65 years to gather up those tech tips.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Pintosopher

Dick,  Is laying down all the good Stuff, My Hooker Super Comp 4 into 1 cracked #4 at the flange twice, and it was heavily brazed at all the joints, later I went to a creative high temp silicone mount with tubing to the Bell Housing, and made sure the exhaust wasn't in torsion. I also took a VW bug Steering Damper and mounted it to the Bell housing and Cross member horizontally to restrain the engine torsion shock loads during autocross events. All of this with Stock rubber engine and trans mounts, and it may have extended the life of the header. Later, I had a specialist at my Tuner employment cut out the tight #4 welded seam and 3 inches of tubing, then welded (Tig) a new less abrupt bend to the #4 tube to the Collector. Since the Battery was relocated, All was good and Someday, a serious header will replace this.
He is Correct in saying the English have all the hard work done on making the 2.0 EAO scream with HP. My Drool Factor increased 10 fold when informed about this. I can dehydrate in no time just watching the EAO powered Escort mk 1&2 in hillclimb video. :P
If you are a video fan, I just uploaded my 72 at the PCCA video gallery and 3 views of my Moderate 2.0 EAO  searching for a redline. That is with a standard Clutch/ flywheel. A year later I went back to the same hill with Half rotating weight and thought I was racing a big bore 4 Motorcycle engine, and was snapping the tires loose on apex to exit :D

It's all better when the high is on Inertia ,and acceleration :)
Yes, it is possible to study and become a master of Pintosophy.. Not a religion , nothing less than a life quest for non conformity and rational thought. What Horse did you ride in on?

Check my Pinto Poems out...

dick1172762

Still on the do's and do not's for a 2.0L Pinto. Never mount the engine and tranie solid. Walsh use to sell the solid mounts. I tried them ONCE and payed for it. In one 25 lap race the header, the bellhousing, and the tranie tail shaft housing all were cracked. The tranie crack was a full 360deg crack. The header and bellhousing were all most as bad. The header was fixable and the rest were replaced. If you've ever raced a 2.0L Ford you know how they will crack a header unless its a two piece Hedman header. Racer Walsh use to tell that in his early catalogs. Where will you find one? Lots of luck as Hedman quit making them way back. You might take a brand X and make the collector removable like the Hedman. I don't think it would be necessary on an autocross Pinto, but I always used one for the full 20 years I raced my 72 Pinto. 2300L don't have this problem thank God. I think the only 2.0L Pintos being road race'ed now are the ones in vintage racing. I don't see any Pintos being raced in regular SCCA road races without a 2300L. The 2300L make nice horse power without to much work. Cam / header / carb will wake one up. BTW if you want to see my 20 year raced Pinto go to the pintosopher photo gallery. Its the red group 2 number 272. Sold it in 95 and its still raced today in vintage road races on the east coast.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

How do you hop up a 2.0L pinto engine? First move to England or get a real good friend over there. Why? Because the 2.0L was not used over here after 74, but was used in England to a few years ago. The Brits wrote the book on 2.0L Fords and make and sell all the good stuff in the world. Aluminum heads for a start. The stock 2.0L head is a real piece of German junk! Why? Because the intake ports are the worst ever cast that is known by man. They go straight into the head and then make a 90deg turn to the valve seats. Not too bad for a turbo but pure junk for an engine with carbs. It can be fixed but only with VERY high $$$$ to spend. The intake ports need to be moved upward almost 1 inch! That's 1 inch! Racer Walsh had a welder back in the early 70"s that could make the mod if you had the money. $1000+ in 1973 dollars. If you do, some how move the ports then the intake manifold will not fit. The intake manifold will need to be relocated. Everything else for the hop up can be bought over here or in England and maybe Germany. Bryan Walsh has a very fast 2.0L Pinto and may very well have one of those heads. Easy to tell as the intake manifold will be up near the valve cover. I do not know if the English aluminum head has the ports moved but it would be really dumb if they didn't. Now you know how to get that 200 horse power on the street.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Here's what I would do to wake up a 2300 Pinto. First of all a GOOD header! I would chose a Mustang cast iron header because it will give you the most torque increase of all the headers for sale now days. Its heavy but who cares. Next would be a good carb and a better intake manifold. A 38/38 Weber would be a good start along with an adapter from ACE. Why the adapter? Because the stock adapter from the factory is off set on the stock intake. Another idea would be the lower half of EFI Mustang intake along with an ACE adapter to fit a Motorcraft 120 two barrel carb. This would require a little more work though on the manifold. Another idea would be an Offy four barrel intake with a 390 cfm Holley carb. Any of the three manifold's and carbs will be ok. Next would be an adjustable cam pulley so you can advance the cam 4 to 6 deg's. Next would be advancing your timeing several deg till the motor tells you when to stop. And it will tell you! It'll rattle so much you'll think it's some one shooting at you. At that point retard it a little and drive it again to check it out. These 3 things will wake up your Pinto and make it more fun to drive. I'm not telling you to do this.This is what I would do if I had a new, to me Pinto. What you do is up to you and your pocket book.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Want more horsepower out of your Pinto? Not as easy as you think! Almost anything you can do will only help your Pinto at 4000 +RPM! What you say!!! The new header I installed last week was to gain me 20 horse power. That what the mfg told me! Wrong! Mfg didn't tell you it would help you at 4000 +RPM did he? Bigger carb? Trick ignition? Three pole spark plugs? Wise bang plug wires? 120 octane gas? All these hop up parts will only help you at higher RPM than you would drive most of the time. Exception would be the race gas. It will not give you any horse power by itself. It only allows you to lean on the motor more without blowing it up. With it you can use more spark advance total. From 32 deg total to 36 deg total will make your Pinto come alive to a point. But none of these mod will do much by themselves. You must do more than one mod to gain real horse power. The kind you can really feel in the seat of your pants. Ever thing you can do is a trade off. Gas mileage / drive ability / engine life / drive train life / etc / etc will suffer as you add more mods to your Pinto. Think it over and never go by what the mfg tell you. They only tell you what you want to hear. If they didn't lie they wouldn't sell their products would they? Biggest help for a Pinto? Get rid of that piece of junk intake manifold along with a slightly bigger carb. 350 CFM MAX! That's all you need. The lower half of the EFI manifold with a little work and a Motorcraft carb is a great bolt on. Just remember that bigger is not always better. Remember you'll never be able to out run the newer cars on the street with a stock Pinto. They have a big horse power that a Pinto could only dream of. My two cents worth.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Want a traction loc for your 8" or 9" rear end for cheap? Try  http://www.fastfairlane.com/Tech%20Tips/Rearend/TractionTechTip5.html  Looks easy enough to do.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Say you want to rap your header with header-rap. Mfg's say it'll make the under hood lower by 50 deg's. Well who cares? Motor will not care and only the people who made and sold it to you will care. Header rap will rust your header in half the time it would with out the rap!!!! Why? Water collects under the rap because of the cycle of hot and cold temp plus a trip or two to the car wash. Header mfg's love it because they sell more headers. If you live in death valley maybe it would be ok but why would you want to hide your new header in the first place? DO NOT RAP except on a stage! Just what I think.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Want a cheap way to keep your header looking new with NO rust? This only works on a new header that has not been placed on a motor. Strip off the paint that came with and spray it with ATF. Inside and outside. Then put the wet header on the motor and start it up. Run it till it doesn't smoke any more. The oil will burn into the header and keep it looking like it did after you striped it. DO NOT do this over your drive way. Remember the header must be new. This is not for show cars and who knows for stainless steel headers.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

Scott Hamilton

Quote from: dick1172762 on February 14, 2017, 09:32:37 AM
..... If you've got a Vega, use a hammer.

'Priceless!' :)

I love reading these, fantastic!


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Yellow 72, Runabout, 2000cc, 4Spd
Green 72, Runabout, 2000cc, 4Spd
White 73, Runabout, 2000cc, 4Spd
The Lemon, the Lime and the Coconut, :)

dick1172762

Ever wonder what color's you should use under the hood of a race car Pinto. Well white reflects heat while black absorbs heat. Paint the firewall white while everything else would be black including the under side of the hood. Does it help? Well it should but only on a road race Pinto and then only on an endurance racer where your racing for hour's at a time. Paint it! What do you have to lose?
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

If your going to autocross your Pinto there are a couple things you should do if your hooked and are going to race all year long. First your oil needs to be thin because you'll not have time to warm the car up. I use 5W-30 in my Pinto. Second, for the same reason, you'll need a thermostat of at least 180 deg's. 205 would be better, but I'm told there are no 205 thermostats. I use an electric fan and turn it off till the temp comes up to 180 deg's. Autocrossing is a type of racing where every little thing you can do is necessary. Win or lose by a tenth of a second is common at each race. But it is truly one of the most fun things you can do with your Pinto. You'll think your ten foot tall when you beat a BMW with your little ole Pinto. Take a look at http://www.autocross.com to see how big autocross really is.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Ever wanted to race your Pinto? Well its much easyer than you would have though. Go autocrossing! Yes, autocrossing! All you need is a helmet no older than 5 years (some clubs have loner helmets). That's it! If your really serious, your allowed to change the shocks and front sway bar. Car will run H-Stock with SCCA. No membership is necessary too. Tires must be real street tires, not R rated street tires (slicks with a couple 1/16" deep groves). Most courses are 2nd gear max and will last 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Much fun and you'll meet lots of real gear heads, plus you'll learn how to drive your Pinto in all kinds of conditions. Rules can be down loaded on the SCCA site for free (that's free). Most city's over 200k have several different clubs putting the race's on, ever week in. Some 100k city's have them too. Find out what your Pinto will really do, for cheap $$. You can race a full year for what one road race would cost. If you really get hooked then you can move up to a modified Pinto all the way up to Indy type cars. And if you have a go for it wife, they have class's for wife's in the same Pinto. H stock for you and HL stock for her. You can ever carry a passenger if they have a helmet and seat belt. What have you got to lose? Take a look at   http://www.na-motorsports.com
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Have a 2.000 L pinto race car or autocross car. By now you know you must remove the head to change cams. Right? Wrong! First slide the cam backwards till it touches the firewall. Mark the firewall where the cam touched by making a circle on the firewall. Replace the cam and center punch / drill the center of the circle. Go inside the car and drill a 4" or 5" hole where the center punch was. Make your self a sheet metal plate to cover the hole and your home free without removing the head. Just swing the plate out off the way and change the cam.I don't know if this mod will clear stuff under the dash on a stock Pinto street car.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Want a Rally package air dam for your 79/80 Pinto? Can't find one? Make your own out of 1/8 (.125) ABS plastic. A 4 x 8 x .125 sheet will cost you $100 at Granger. I cut off aprox 18" off the bottom so you end up with aprox 18" x 8ft strip. I then mount this to the bottom back side of the front bumper. You'll end up with about 2"or3" attach to the bumper and the rest hanging down. Use a GOOD heat gun to bend it around the fenders then trim it off and your ready to add holes for brake ducts and oil coolers. I build mine to be about 3" off the ground but use good judgment on yours. ABS is damn near bullet proof and speed bumps will not hurt it. If you want better or more brace's just add some 1/8" x 1" straps to the air dam and bolted at the top to the bumper. If you hit something all you will have to do is straighten the brace out and reinstall it. Finish product will only be as good as your workmanship. The Good heat gun is a MUST HAVE. No hair dryers.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Need some cheap traction bars? How about clamps? On the front half of the springs make clamps that go crossways over and under the springs with a bolt at each end. You'll need two on each spring. Put them where the short leafs of the spring end so that you'll clamp all the leafs together. Then move forward and clamp the next shortest leaf. Do this while the floor jack is under the center section of the rear end. Use some pretty good material and snug it down really good and tight. I use 1/2 x 2 steel with 1/2 bolts. It'll ride a little ruff but not to bad. Make sure they don't rub the tires. Go for it.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

BRAD! One coil is way too much. Car would be on the bump stops. 1/2 coil is the most I'd go at first. 1/4 coil if the springs are real old. You can always cut more, but you can't put it back on. Take it easy please. Just remember that a little goes a LONG ways. BTW Speedway has rear lowering mini stock springs at about $100 each or close. You can de-arch your springs at some spring mfg. Lay the spring on its side and draw a line from the center of one bushing to the center of the other bushing. Then measure from the line down to the spring. That is your free arch. You want 3" of free arch and that what you would tell a shop. In front, lower it till the tie rods are parallel to the ground. Make sure the shocks don't bottom out  when the Pinto is low. This is what I do for Pinto race cars. BTW I was born in Diego and went to Hover Hi  many years ago. Hope this helps~~~Dick
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Ever tow your Pinto behind your 35 ft motor home? If your going from Texas to Washington please remove the Pinto's drive shaft. Why you ask? Because the cluster gear rotation is what slings the gear lube all over the inside of the tranie. Tow it and the cluster gear doesn't rotate, so no lube inside the tranie. Bad thing to say the least. I've seen the tranie's lock up in as little as 30 miles, and I've seen people go cross country with the drive shaft installed with no problem. Are you willing to chance it?
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Like to spend money? Who doesn't, so get out the Summit catalog buy, buy, buy, Redline products. Why you ask? It really good stuff for your car. The one I use the most is the tranie lube called MTL. Put this in your 4 speed and it'll shift like it got hot butter for a lube. Don't use it in a T5 as its too thick because a T5's uses atf in place of gear lube. No problem as Redline has a lube just for type of tranies that T5's are. You'll thank me each and ever time you shift gears. Another lube I use is their wheel bearing grease. Good stuff. I put some in a pan on the wife's stove and turned up the heat. The lube stayed the same no matter how hot it got. Didn't even smoke! Didn't I say its good stuff.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

turbopinto72

Quote from: dick1172762 on January 17, 2017, 10:38:02 AM
Beware of the 2" drop spindles for Pintos and Mustang II. While they do lower your car while keeping the ride the same, the lower ball joint will almost touch the ground with 13" (stock dia) wheels. Better way to lower your Pinto is by cutting the coil springs 1/3 to 1/2 coils off the bottom of the spring. Then you can still use 13" wheels and ride ok. Newer springs will require more removed but don't get carried away and cut too much. I've used a cut off wheel and a cutting torch. Both work ok with the torch easyer and faster. How ever you do it make sure you get it re-aligned. Your on your own at the rear as Racer Walsh no longer sells the 1" lowering blocks. Not to hard to make and Speedway sell some too.

I need a little over 2 inch drop in my 72. I was thinking about cutting the front coils 1 full  coil. Do you have any experience with how much drop 1 full coil would be ?
Thanks
Brad
Brad F
1972, 2.5 Turbo Pinto
1972, Pangra
1973, Pangra
1971, 289 Pinto

dick1172762

Say you've removed your distributor to do what ever people remove a distributor for and you can not get the rotor to align back up. Easy fix is to place the distributor back in the engine but do not use the hold down clamp. Now turn the rotor backwards one gear tooth at a time till you get the rotor align where you want. Go a tooth too far and you'll have to go all the way around again. As your doing this the distributor will rise up a small amount as it passes each tooth on the drive gear which is ok. Told you it was easy. If you've got a Vega, use a hammer.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Lots of people tell me they would like to run racing fuel in their wiss bang 1200 but with the cost up to $10 or more per gal, all they do is talk. Do what I do and you will not go broke. I use a 55 gal drum to start, then I pour in 5 gal's of toluene, then I fill up the drum with the best gas I can find. 100 octane lo lead av gas at the airport if you've got a friend with a FAA tail number. 130 or 145 octane if you know the Pope. If that doesn't work, use super duper high test pump gas with out alkie. What other way can you go now days? Just make sure you get it from a hi traffic station so its not years old. Toluene is 125 octane so when mixed with the pump gas you'll end up with APROX 100+ octane. This is what I do. I'm not telling you to do this, just that it works for ME. And please make sure the drum is CLEAN! before you start. Want to know how you find the best pump gas? Get your self a hydrometer for checking specific gravities of liquids. Any gas over 750 specific gravities is really GOOD.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Do you hate pulling your intake or exhaust manifolds off to work on the head or manifolds. First thing that will make the job easyer will be using studs in the head. That'll make align of the manifold and / or gaskets so much easyer and faster. Next is using anti seize on both sides of the exhaust and intake gaskets. You can't get too much on the gaskets as it'll drip / run off when you start up your engine. One thing I've forgot is to try "PAM spray" on the intake gasket. Might even work on both gaskets. Best thing I have used is fiberglass mold release. With it I have used head gaskets over at the race track. Things like this is what all drag racers learn from day one of their racing days. I have seen drag racers rebuild all kinds of problems in the staging lanes at the drags. "The days not over till the rods hit the ground". Just remember that the easyer you make your car to be worked on, the quicker you'll be on your way after you end up on the side of the road in a cloud of smoke.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

If your autocross Pinto is a racer only, with no street driving, add negative camber to the front tires. About 2 1/2 deg for slicks or R rated street tires. Helps a bunch in the turns. As the tire's ware, reverse  sides with the tires on the rims. Allway's keep the tires rotating in the same direction. If you run Goodyear slicks allway's mount them with the x ray marking to the left in the front and to the right in the rear. This is for rear wheel drive cars only. Get it LOW near the ground. The car is built so you can not go too low without major chassis work. Lower the car till the tie rods are parallel to the ground. A little toe out helps the car turn too.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

Are you autocross racers having a hard time keeping yours tires sticky? Well I've tried all kinds of tire treatment's with some success but most are high $$. Try "No Touch Tire Care" at NAPA, Autozone, etc,etc. Just clean up the tread, then scuff up the surface, and spray the tires tread area. Seam's to work as good as the high $$ stuff with much less cost. None of the tire treatment's will make the tires sticky as new, but it will help. With the high $$ stuff, you would coat the tread over and over till it remains shiny. About 3 or 4 coats. If your car is an autocross car only, get the tires off the ground between races.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.