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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

78 wagon broken rear spring

Started by ToniJ1960, September 14, 2015, 02:13:22 PM

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popbumper

Just a quick note - The Suspension King in Pennsylvania has brand new five leaf springs for wagons for anyone else considering a change. They come new, prepainted but I painted them a second coat with POR-15 Chassis Black. They also have bushings.

Shackles and new main bolt, bought them both from Rock Auto; shackles had bushings included. Painted these as well. I'm installing an 8" rear end to replace the factory 6.75"; everything has been sandblasted, primed, filled, sanded, primed again and painted with POR-15 chassis black. The rear end is gonna look excellent up against my restored gas tank.
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

ToniJ1960

 I cant really be sure about how long that rear spring was broke. Whenever I had to jack it up I raised it with the jack under the differential,so it probably held it up. I only noticed it when I was having a new clutch put in a couple weeks ago.

Its been broke for a while since the ends are completely rusted over with thick rust. I couldnt believe it when I saw it how long was I driving like that I keep wondering.

The ase mechanic who put the clutch in is supposed to be coming over to look at the front suspension, and rear, and help me figure this out, today.

oldkayaker

Thanks, that sounds like normal door operation.  So my concern of the body being slightly warped is likely unfounded.

Looking at the date of the accident indicates that you had over 10 years of assumed normal operation before the rear spring broke.  So the 1991 accident is probably not the cause of the new front suspension noises.

Just for safety sake, I suggest taking it to a alignment shop for a inspection before you go on the trip or other high speed operation.  Front suspensions should not make loud clunk or pop noises.  If it were mine, I would inspect and disassemble the front suspension until the noise source is found or that all the life threatening items are proven to be good (but I am a paranoid person).
Jerry J - Jupiter, Florida

ToniJ1960

 The passenger door opens and closes ok since I put new(er) hinges on it a year ago. The drivers door sags and still needs hinges on it. So its hard to tell about the gaps on it.

It was hit pretty hard from behind in 1991 knocked into the car in front of me at a red light. I had to pull the core support out to get a radiator in it, new fenders and hood.

oldkayaker

Hearing a loud clunk or pop from the front suspension is troubling.  Suggest taking it to a alignment shop for inspection before driving a lot.  There are a number of things that could be at fault in the front, i.e. failed ball joint, seizing shock absorber, bad A-arm bushings, cracked A-arm, something loose like A-arm attachment bolts, failing steering shaft rubber flex joint, etc.   

If everything was adjusted and working properly up front, the lower right front side wheel should have more negative camber (tire top tipped in) than the higher left front side.  The Pinto's unequal length A-arm suspension should gain negative camber (more top tipping in) as it is compressed and lose negative camber (less top tipping in) as the front end is raised.

Just curious, do the doors close okay and are the gaps even?
Jerry J - Jupiter, Florida

ToniJ1960

 Yes thats what makes it seem so weird left and right rear seem to pretty even, at least nowhere near as far off as the front left to right.

I cant say for certain theres any difference in the rear height  L and R, at the most its slight 1/4 maybe.

Looking at the broken ends of the spring theyre rusted over so it must have been broke for a good amount of time. I dont drive it as much since I got my Corvette 2 years ago, but I would bet its been broke longer than that.

I do remember driving it once a while back and heard a loud clunk or pop from the front, looked around under it and couldnt see anything (Im sure it was the front, cant remember if it was which side).

Maybe confusing things even more the front drivers side seems to be tipped in a little at the top. I read adding spring spacers would alter the camber, so it makes me wonder if the drivers side front might actually be up too high, and changed the camber?

oldkayaker

If I am reading this correctly, you are saying the rear is sitting level side to side now and just the front end is not level?  The front not being level side to side by 1" to 1.5" seems excessive.  If the car was driven a lot with the broken LR spring, maybe the body got twisted/distorted some.  Do the doors close okay and are the gaps even?  If this is the cause, maybe just driving on a rough/uneven road some would straighten the body a little and bring the front back closer to even.  I am guessing here.
Jerry J - Jupiter, Florida

76hotrodpinto

That's why you do them in matching pairs. Yes if the diagonally opposed front wheel is lower, the new spring is sitting higher then the other rear spring. Don't even worry about the front till the back has matching leaf springs, and level side to side.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

ToniJ1960

 Yes I got a leaf spring from someone here and used it, just hoping it would be close enough for now. Im planning to move soon and just need to be able to get my car where Im going.

The weird thing is the difference l to r in front is drastic, but I cant measure or see any l to r on the rear. I measured in the rear from the lower edge of the rim to the bottom of the wheel well, both sides 17 inches maybe a quarter inch difference.

In front the difference is 1.5 to 2.0 inches side to side. I kind of wonder if raising the drivers side so far put too much weight on the passenger side, or maybe the spring in front on the drivers side isnt sitting where it should be on the lower ca?

Maybe the rear spring being broken let the right rear drop some and raised the l front and I didnt notice it was there?

oldkayaker

I am a little confused as usual.  Did you just replace the left rear spring without installing a matching right rear spring?  If so, the newer left rear spring is probably taller than the old right spring.  A taller left rear spring would raise the left rear a lot, lower the right front quite a bit, and raise both the left front & right rear a little.  The amount of change depends on body flex and the sway bar(s) installed.  If you installed a matched set of rear springs, I have no idea of what is going on.

For measuring body height changes, I found measuring from the ground to the bottom of the outer fender wheel well lip top center the easiest.  Measuring from ground to the bottom of the rocker panel is more accurate, but I have to lay on the ground to see the tape measure.  Also make sure the tire inflation is where it is supposed to be and equal side to side.
Jerry J - Jupiter, Florida

ToniJ1960

 I measured from the ground to to upper control arms same on both sides.

ToniJ1960

 The front ones? I would be kind of surprised if theyre different, both are original to the car Im sure. I had it since 1986.

What should I check in the front suspension?

76hotrodpinto

Assuming you have both front wheels in matching size(and no catastrophic damage to front suspension), I would say your springs are toasted. Not matched in resistance at any rate.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

ToniJ1960

 Well the new spring is in, the pads I got with it were better than the ones I had so they went in too, with a new shackle.


Now that side is higher by a lot. I measured from the bottom oedge of the rim to the bottom of the body,both sides the same.


In front though the drivers side is an inch or more higher than the front passenger side.

Im thinking the rear drivers side spring being broke maybe it was lower there and lifted the front enough I didnt notice something wrong in the front, or jacking up the drivers side so far put more weight on the passenger side.

Between the top of the tire and bottom of the fender on the passenger side I can barely get my hand in without angling it. On the drivers side much more room.

Front springs look ok as far as I can tell by looking with my eyes.

Whats the deal? What should I look for?

Reeves1

As mentioned, replace both springs.
Looks like the eye broke off the front of the spring.

Spring shops can (good ones) make you new ones, with the new bushings.
Also, you should never re-use the U-bolts. Get new ones, cut the old ones off. Saves time / work.

How do all the other rubber parts look ? ie: shocks & spring pads ? Likely best to replace them as well.

ToniJ1960

 Someone here on the forum is helping me with a spring, thankfully.

So now, do I raise both sides of the rear to put the new one in?

Usually when I raise the rear I put the jack under the differential to raise both sides, and put jackstands under the spring perches.

That probably wont work for this job.I do have 2 sets of stands, so maybe raise both sides put stands under the bumper brackets and under each axle? Then have the jack free to raise and lower the axle or the spring?

76hotrodpinto

Quote from: ToniJ1960 on September 14, 2015, 10:17:39 PM
Did you have to get new bolts too? I think Im seeing two different types of bushings one piece and two piece.

Autozone has bushings but not the bolts?

And I think I need to look at it close maybe a leaf pulled out and Im seeing two ends? Its so straight and rusted across the ends. I have to look and see whats still attached at the front of that spring. If the band came off that holds the leaves can it be replaced?

The eye is formed on the top leaf, and the sequentially shorter leafs are the springy part. It's possible what you see is the second leaf, look on top of the leafs for signs that top one broke off. Not likely, as it would leave the remainder still bolted to the spring/body mount.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

ToniJ1960

 Did you have to get new bolts too? I think Im seeing two different types of bushings one piece and two piece.

Autozone has bushings but not the bolts?

And I think I need to look at it close maybe a leaf pulled out and Im seeing two ends? Its so straight and rusted across the ends. I have to look and see whats still attached at the front of that spring. If the band came off that holds the leaves can it be replaced?

pinto_one

I brought a new pair of leaf springs for my 79' got them from JC Whitney, mine were sagging, not hard to do but change one at a time , use some liquid wrench penetrating oil on all the nuts and bolts, soaking them for a day or two before to try to remove them , it will make it so much easier and save the skin on your knuckles , useing just hand tools it took me about four hours , took my time and cleaned everything along the way , later Blaine
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

76hotrodpinto

Quote from: ToniJ1960 on September 14, 2015, 09:13:46 PM
No impact tools :( jack jackstands and hand tools. Brake rotors and wheel bearings is about as far I did before.

With some wd40 or similar, you should be ok. Harbor freight sells a 1/2" electric impact for about $50, and a set of impact sockets for $20. If you can afford those, I recommend you do. They will serve you well for a weekend warrior. Remember you need to put stands under the car, and under the axle.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

ToniJ1960

 No impact tools :( jack jackstands and hand tools. Brake rotors and wheel bearings is about as far I did before.

76hotrodpinto

Quote from: ToniJ1960 on September 14, 2015, 08:51:11 PM
Can I do this myself?

Maybe? I don't know what your skill level is, or what tools you have. It's not going to be a 1 hour job, but with basic tools and rudimentary knowledge, yeah, I think you can do it.

You'll need to either support the axle and car separately, or remove the axle altogether. I would leave it in place, it's less work. You remove the u-joints and the other 3 eye bolts at the spring perches. Everything is heavy, make sure the axle is supported before you undo the springs. Hopefully you have an impact wrench.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

ToniJ1960


76hotrodpinto

Quote from: ToniJ1960 on September 14, 2015, 08:30:25 PM
Why both? And it looks too perfectly straight to have been broke I think, maybe something is gone that held it up?

There is supposed to be a loop there that holds a bushing and a bolt thru the center. It's definitely broken. You want to do both because you won't find another single spring to match the 40 years of wear you have on the one you have left, ie. it will be lopsided. Either a pair of new or used, but a matched pair.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

ToniJ1960

 Why both? And it looks too perfectly straight to have been broke I think, maybe something is gone that held it up?

76hotrodpinto

You will need to replace both springs. Not a good place for a welded fix. I don't have problems finding springs for the pintos and m2's in my area, maybe $100 for a set of good used ones.

Edited to say,
It's not a technically difficult job, but you will be dealing with some possibly stuck and crusty fasteners. And the bushing are likely to need replacement too.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

ToniJ1960

 Wonder if it just came apart its too perfectly straight

ToniJ1960

 The spring is sheared straight across right near the front edge wherever it attaches in the front might still be attached but the spring is hanging down.

Are they hard to change or hard to find? Could it be welded back together?