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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Bad Idle..

Started by BrandyMB, March 27, 2015, 11:21:29 PM

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amc49

And so the head banging into the brick wall begins...........

If the carb mixture screws still have no effect you haven't cleaned carb yet.  Or a vacuum leak not found. Or dead fuel pressure, you mention low level in fuel bowl, if car was just running prior to that teardown a big indicator there.

Compression test first, cars usually sit 14 years because something wrong with them (sound familiar?). To make sure you're not wasting time on anything you do. If not done you can spend the next solid month on work and still be in the same boat.

BrandyMB

Ok. I pulled the carb and gave it to a friend for a complete going thru. He did and didnt find anything serious except for some dirt. I put it back on and no change. still wont idle once the choke opens. I cant think of anything else. New ignitions components all the way around and set correctly, new timing belt, 14" vacuum at base of carb. dont know what else to do. Got no more hair to pull out. What could i be missing..?
mark

ToniJ1960

 I think you still may want to replace that power valve diaphragm but it may not be your whole problem. One place known for vacuum leaks on these cars is the mounting bolts at the base of the carb check to see if theyre tight they somehow work their way loose.

BrandyMB

well i pulled the egr valve off and made a block plate and put it on. No change.

BrandyMB

sounds good. ill pull it off and see.

Pintosopher

Quote from: BrandyMB on April 13, 2015, 02:26:44 PM
Pintosopher: It has 15" at idle, cold. If i open the choke more than maybe 1/2" at that point, it just dies.
Within Range, but only will idle with Choke closed? Steady 15 inches no flutter? Lowest Rpms while you can keep it running?
Assuming that the engine has a good leakdown check done , good within spec Compression in all cylinders, Crank, Cam and Distributor properly lined up , We're then looking for either carb or ignition issues.  It always boils down to verifying mechanical , then spark, then fuel mixture. Any system or component that works within these parameters can mess it up. Rare situations like a cracked head do occur and would be difficult to find without specialized equipment or disassembly.
I seem to recall finding a cracked EGR block on my wife's old 2.3L 74. and nothing would work up until I fixed that first. Huge vacuum leak under the carb then. Check that if you have a EGR.
Yes, it is possible to study and become a master of Pintosophy.. Not a religion , nothing less than a life quest for non conformity and rational thought. What Horse did you ride in on?

Check my Pinto Poems out...

BrandyMB

Pintosopher: It has 15" at idle, cold. If i open the choke more than maybe 1/2" at that point, it just dies.

76hotrodpinto

Have you checked the compression yet?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Pintosopher

Quote from: BrandyMB on April 13, 2015, 12:41:25 PM
Well i finally got back on it. I took the top off the carb and there was all of maybe 1/4 inch of fuel in the float bowl. I put a kit into the carb, added another filter (there was some very fine crap in the bottom of the bowl), cleaned out all the passages and jets. Saw no clogs. Put back together, the float was set at the right level according to the kit, and it still runs exactly the same. I cannot find a decel valve anywhere on the motor. And I looked everywhere. damn. What next?
Mark
Let's ask a question about how the intake is working for you. Have you checked manifold vacuum at the area under the Butterflies of the carb? With a dial gauge the reading should be 11-17 Hg of vacuum with a steady needle at idle rpm. It should drop when you crack open the throttle as vacuum is highest with the butterflies nearly closed at idle. If you can't get at least 11 inches of vacuum at idle or the needle jumps back and forth, you have a serious vacuum leak or a intake valve seating problem in one or more cylinders. Adding choke to the air flow is only masking a bigger problem as it does appear a lean issue is at hand.
I don't think Ford installed Decel valves on the 2.3L in 74, only the early 74 with 2.0L motors seemed to have them, if equipped they could leak and disturb mixture beneath the butterflies.

Pintosopher, mixing a 14 to 1 without ethanol in my beverages ;D
Yes, it is possible to study and become a master of Pintosophy.. Not a religion , nothing less than a life quest for non conformity and rational thought. What Horse did you ride in on?

Check my Pinto Poems out...

BrandyMB

Well i finally got back on it. I took the top off the carb and there was all of maybe 1/4 inch of fuel in the float bowl. I put a kit into the carb, added another filter (there was some very fine crap in the bottom of the bowl), cleaned out all the passages and jets. Saw no clogs. Put back together, the float was set at the right level according to the kit, and it still runs exactly the same. I cannot find a decel valve anywhere on the motor. And I looked everywhere. damn. What next?
Mark

amc49

'... i will slice in a new one after the pump, then replace the carb inlet filter.'

An excellent idea and I do it too. All those years can fill the tank with fine powder rust that goes right through the tank inlet sock and then stacks up in the carb bowl to make trouble. The super small carb inlet filter is garbage there and clogs in a minute, I use the biggest paper type filter I can get patched into the line between pump and carb. Preferably clear so I can see how much crap is in it. If car brought up after a long downtime you may end up changing that filter say twice in the first month of operating the car. After that the crud will drop off. Ethanol use if they use it where you are makes that rust issue MUCH worse.

Look at modern cars now and how big the filters are, they are ten times bigger than they used to be, there's a reason for that..............

rdrew1956

I had the same bad idle smoothed out when driving.  I went problem all the checks for vacuum leaks, tune up etc.  Ran like one cylinder was dead.  It turned out to be blown head gasket.

Good luck, Bob

BrandyMB

I appreciate the reply and advice, Starsky. I probably wont be able to get back on the car till next week. I had another small project get in the way, I picked up a 1966 pinball machine for my shop and am finishing up getting it all operational (I was an arcade mechanic for some earlier life years). Ill bet the carb is all fulla junk..

Happy Easter all!

Mark

78_starsky

Any update on this problem?

I know this sounds basic but it has happened to me more than once.  Before you tried to start the car by any chance did you buy a couple new line filters and one for the carb inlet?

What i have learned (done) on cars that sit for a length of time is to get new rubber fuel line to replace the old stuff. i will slice into the line before the pump and place a filter there, then i will slice in a new one after the pump, then replace the carb inlet filter.

reason being this will (should) eliminate any rust that is in the old metal gas and if water has condensed in the lines.

It is a pain to run the line and filters but it will work.

on my car when i got it running i have 1 that is plumbed just out of the tank, then 1 screwed into the electric pump, these 2 are about 1 foot from the tank.  next i have 1 that is after the metal line before the carb, then a last one at the carb inlet. The one that is after the line before the carb catches tons of rust from the line (i never replaced it when i got the car running.

food for thought.  cheers

amc49

Then that says possible clog in idle fuel passage........................And why the mixture screw has no effect. You could simply pop out the idle fuel jets that screw into top sides of carb at each barrel and clean them to save the carb job maybe, but some have at least one of the jets made non-removeable so as to stop emission settings tampering. Several places those clogs can occur usually at the smallest restrictions in the passage as capillary action tends to keep them covered with a fuel bubble that then cooks to a plug with turned off engine heat. Why carb jets tend to be one of the first places to clog. Easiest for trash to plug the smallest hole as well.

The mixture screw only has an effect over a very small range, if the carb error makes mixture way rich or lean the screw then appears to quit working, it cannot affect the range enough with its' limited action.

BrandyMB

I appreciate all the replies from you fine folks out there. I will have the carb redone, I have a kit for it. Funny thing is though, when the motor is warmed up and the choke is wide open, it idles like crap but if I close it down some by hand the motor smooths out and speeds up. It acts like almost a vacuum leak at idle. And I looked at EVERYTHING! Nowhere to leak.
Mark

amc49

Absolutely and will be rich enough that mixture needle will not cut off enough fuel to lean it back out. The PV often is worth up to ten jet numbers in what it contribute to fuel, WAY too much for idle only.

ToniJ1960

 That power valve diaphragm will affect the idle because when they leak the vacuum at idle cant hold it closed and you get enrichment you dont need at idle. The car will run pretty well at high speeds though.

amc49

'The idle mixture screw has no real effect whatsoever.'

The carb has an issue. You MUST get some effect from turning that screw and the indicator there. Provided we are talking the correct screw of course.

No way should one expect a carb sitting that long to work right, oddly some do but most will not. Once the fuel dries up in bowl it takes any rubber parts along with it, they get rock hard and then trying to start carb with new fuel later but not letting car sit at least 48 hrs. to then reinvigorate the rock hard rubber parts then sees them tear or other fault when you start car up. Meaning power valve and accel pump diaphragms are most likely junk now. The dried up fuel often clogs small idle feed ports as well and then you often physically must clear them back out, the varnish can be hard as rock and simply setting in fuel will not dissolve that back out. Aforementioned problems even worse if car used ethanol laced fuel before it was allowed to sit.

First thing I do on any car coming back up after a long sit like that is go through the carb. I won't lift a finger to start it till done.

dick1172762

Good call Tonij!  Another problem is the gas will dry up and leave crud when it not run over time. Crud will not wash out with new gas when started at a later time too. Stuff will turn to concrete over time.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

ToniJ1960

 Usually when the mixture screw wont cut off the gas it means theres too much getting through in another circuit on the carb. For me its always been a leaky power valve diaphragm thats the first sign its leaking. To test it just take the top half off the carb turn it over press the power valve in, put your thumb over the little hole on the edge and if it stays depressed its ok if it pops back out when you let it go with your thumb over that hole the diaphragm is leaking.

Most likely it is leaking. Might be other issues with the carb, like loading up (dumping gas over into the throat after idling a minute due to the float not set right). All I ever really do to mine is just on the top half.

dga57

Quote from: 76hotrodpinto on March 28, 2015, 08:18:28 PM
Carb issues would be pretty likely. I know if I sat around for 14 years, I'd have crust in my orifices too.

Wouldn't we all?!?!?

Dwayne ;D
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

76hotrodpinto

Carb issues would be pretty likely. I know if I sat around for 14 years, I'd have crust in my orifices too.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

dennisofaz

On my car the mixture screw has a big effect.  You might be right about something in the carb.


Dennis


BrandyMB

Well, the manual calls for 6 degrees BTDC and I have it at around 10 or so. The idle mixture screw has no real effect whatsoever.. I wonder it there's something stuck in one of the jets or orifices..?

dennisofaz

Hi Mark,


I have a 74 with the 2.3 and you might need a little more advance in your distributor, or an adjustment to the mixture screw on the carburator, maybe a quarter to a half turn out.


Best regards,


Dennis

BrandyMB

Thanks for the replies! No power brakes for one, and for two, it was parked cuz it belonged to a lady who parked it in her garage and let it sit while she drove her Ford Explorer. Just for grins, Ill do a compression test etc on it.
Mark

76hotrodpinto

Should run a compression test and leak down test. Do you know why it was parked for 14 years?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

HOSS429

if it has power brakes unplug the brake booster vacuum line and plug it up for a moment .. my 80 had a bad booster causing a vacuum leak and a miss at idle on the number 3 or 4 cylinder ..it` been a day or two since i had it ... 

BrandyMB

Im working on a 74 Pinto 2.3 for my wife which was stored for 14 years. Only needed a few things to make it roadworthy. Being its a 74 in the kingdom of CA, I removed all the smog stuff and vacuum lines and ran the distributor vacuum advance straight to ported vacuum off the bottom of the carb. Have installed a complete new tuneup kit, points, plugs, condenser, rotor, cap and plugs etc. Problem is, I cannot get it to idle. It is very rough and smooths out if I close down the choke plates or give it a bit of throttle. It acts like it has a vacuum leak at idle but there are no open points, everything is capped off. Ive had two other mechanics look at it and we are all puzzled. Any suggestions will be GREATLY appreciated!
Mark