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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Taking the turbo plunge!

Started by 76hotrodpinto, January 27, 2015, 11:59:24 PM

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76hotrodpinto

I'm about to scrap the rest of the tbird. I have everything I want off of it. Is there anything any of you want off of it before I do? No charge, just cover the shipping.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

76hotrodpinto

Ordered the bellhousing and fork from a reputable parts hoarder! Thanks PintoCrazed. I dug out my ol' 100 amp mig to get ready for the sheet metal work on the pinto. I think I can get most of my welding done while keeping the pinto drivable, cutting the down time for it by a couple of days.

Is the electric speedo something I need for the engine management system? I want to use my mechanical gauge.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Pintocrazed

JUST LET ME KNOW.IM NOT DOING ANYTHING WITH IT

76hotrodpinto

Quote from: Pintocrazed on May 11, 2015, 12:03:44 PM
I GOT A BELLHOUSING FROM A 93 MUSTANG 2.3 THAT WAS CABLE OPERATED

If I can't find one local in the next day or two, I'll be hitting you up.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Pintocrazed

I GOT A BELLHOUSING FROM A 93 MUSTANG 2.3 THAT WAS CABLE OPERATED

Wittsend

I'm sure the bellhousing etc. are out there but it may take some hunting.  While I limit myself to "self serve" yards finding anything Turbo Coupe of late has been extremely difficult.  I did my swap in mid-2008 and at that time the two yards I frequent probably had 3-5 T/C's every month I would visit. Within six months of starting the project it dropped to 1-2 T/C's per visit.

In the last two years I believe I have found 1 T/C. that car was an '88. Great for the LA-3 ECU, but it would have the hydraulic clutch which the Pinto swaps don't need.  These yards aren't out in the middle of nowhere either.  They serve the western side of Los Angeles, the second largest city in the country.

So, again, another reason to be thankful for having the donor car.

76hotrodpinto

Well I didn't pull the steering column looms, so it should be less than yours. I pulled out some extras along with what I need, just to simplify removal. I'll trim that out during install. I got to have me some fun "disassembling" the inner dash/instrument supports... with a hammer! Having a little trouble finding the right bell housing/fork setups. Anyone got an extra one they want to part with?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Wittsend

Ahhh..., yes, fond memories. Why is it when it is someone else's wires they seem so few? LOL And, yes, I did cut the cradle support to get the engine out. A salvage title and a rat in the HVAC system saw to that.

Nice find under the shifter boot!

76hotrodpinto

The juicy circuit laden fruit, fresh picked!



Something is missing...



Oh, there it is.



And the little gem I found under the boot.





1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

There ought to be two dipstick holes in the block on the driver's side. I did almost exactly what Wittsend did as far as placement. The original dipstick hole rearward of the oil cooler will have to be plugged and the front one will have a welch plug in that needs to be knocked-out.

I had hoped to reuse the plug, but it shot into the grass and leaves beside my workspace when I punched it out from the sump side.  :P

I also used a C-Line 7qt pan. The dipstick reads a quart+ low when there are seven in the sump.  :o

On a side note, I don't think the low oil sensor is tied to the ECU, so disconnecting it shouldn't pose a problem. Most of them leak anyway.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

Since it was about seven years ago I've forgotten exactly what I did. But here are pictures of the installation. As you can see in the lower view image the stick goes inside the motor mount area, but towards the back. As best I recall this is the T/C stick and tube.  There might be a height difference between the front and back holes.  With the pans off I would measure where it is at presently  and then again after it is moved to ensure that "full" is really full. The upper view image shows how I tucked it close to the intake just to get it out of the way. I'd assume if you just used the Pinto stick and tube in the forward hole everything would be fine.


Pintosopher

Quote from: 76hotrodpinto on May 08, 2015, 12:27:50 PM
On the dip stick subject, you didn't move to the deep end of the pinto pan?
Not to Hijack, but I've been in the Deep end of my Pan for some time, and I'm sure I've been called a Dipstick too! ;D
Yes, it is possible to study and become a master of Pintosophy.. Not a religion , nothing less than a life quest for non conformity and rational thought. What Horse did you ride in on?

Check my Pinto Poems out...

76hotrodpinto

On the dip stick subject, you didn't move to the deep end of the pinto pan?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

76hotrodpinto

Quote from: Wittsend on May 08, 2015, 12:06:49 PM
Glad the removal tool worked.

The dip stick move is simple. I did a slight modification to "tuck in" the stick to the intake manifold (but at the moment I can't remember specifically what it was). 

Yes, I just did without the oil level sensor (that is what you are referring to?). At least in a junkyard getting one of the two star bolts off off the oil pick up can be a real pain. The T/C oil pan gasket isn't cheap ($25-$30) but I reused it and don't have issues.

Man, this is really having me relive my project. You forget all the stuff you needed to acquire even having the donor car - oil pan, oil pick up, engine mounts, bellcrank bellhousing, clutch pedal, clutch cable, external fuel pump, radiator,  electric cooling fan, smaller heater motor. Then there are the modifications to the PS inner fender, trans tunnel, trans mount, VAM mount, heater motor, radiator cradle, motor mounts, steering rack (clearance), top of intake/throttle body (clearance) windshield washer tank, fuel and return lines - routing the wiring and mounting everything etc. And then I made it more complicated with with the T/C steering column and fuse box! It's time for a nap just thinking about it all.

At least you have a 76 which makes the motor mounts simple. I had my engine in/out seven times before committing to welding the mount. I recall 65SC said he did about the same.


It's all worth it though. And fun for the whole family. Hopefully you don't go full senile on me, I'm sure I'll be asking for many more wisdom nuggets as I progress. And Thanks to you guys for all the help. This would be much less enjoyable if I was going in blind.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Wittsend

Glad the removal tool worked.

The dip stick move is simple. I did a slight modification to "tuck in" the stick to the intake manifold (but at the moment I can't remember specifically what it was). 

Yes, I just did without the oil level sensor (that is what you are referring to?). At least in a junkyard getting one of the two star bolts off off the oil pick up can be a real pain. The T/C oil pan gasket isn't cheap ($25-$30) but I reused it and don't have issues.

Man, this is really having me relive my project. You forget all the stuff you needed to acquire even having the donor car - oil pan, oil pick up, engine mounts, bellcrank bellhousing, clutch pedal, clutch cable, external fuel pump, radiator,  electric cooling fan, smaller heater motor. Then there are the modifications to the PS inner fender, trans tunnel, trans mount, VAM mount, heater motor, radiator cradle, motor mounts, steering rack (clearance), top of intake/throttle body (clearance) windshield washer tank, fuel and return lines - routing the wiring and mounting everything etc. And then I made it more complicated with with the T/C steering column and fuse box! It's time for a nap just thinking about it all.

At least you have a 76 which makes the motor mounts simple. I had my engine in/out seven times before committing to welding the mount. I recall 65SC said he did about the same.

76hotrodpinto

Got a tool like the one in the video. Worked great! So how are you guys addressing the dipstick issue? I'm assuming you moved it too, when you put the pinto oil pan on. And did you drill a bung for the oil sensor in the pinto oil pan, or delete the sensor?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Wittsend

I always left the line at the rail alone and just disconnect further down at the solid fuel line. The plastic clip comes out the side and then it either pulls off, or possibly a small screwdriver helps to remove a "snap" type of retainer.  I have a vague recollection that the supply/return line connectors are different and each requires one of the methods???

The tool you want (assuming you elect to remove the circular spring clip at the rail) is used for auto air conditioning. They come either as a plastic, stand alone size, or as a two sized piece die cast part that has a center pivot like pliers.  The few times I've used them I had trouble. I eventually cut a short piece of PVC pipe in half, slide the halves into the area and pivoted  the pieces off the raised edge of the hose connector.  This forced the spring outward and allowed the removal. If your hose doesn't have a raised area tape or thick wire would probably work.  You just want the plastic halves to pivot so they will force the circular spring outward. Large pliers or a hose clamp will work if finger pressure isn't enough. I had to alter (thin) the halves diameter somewhat to fit.  Just be forewarned that even with a manufactured tool it can be frustrating if it isn't the exact right size.

76hotrodpinto

Is there a part number for that tool? Or at least a name for it?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

76hotrodpinto

Quote from: 65ShelbyClone on May 07, 2015, 12:21:19 AM
The clips are just a redundant safety feature; there is a garter spring inside the [spring-lock] connector that you have to release with a special tool in order separate them.

I found this video in a Google search:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xf8D0dOtv0k

Mine has Bundy fittings with plastic (one-time use) safety clips since it's pre-'87. I like the spring-locks better though.

Ahhh. I see. Thank you sir.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

The orange one on the turbo is the oxygen sensor ground, so yeah, orange must have been grounds.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

There is an orange ground wire at the turbo and another gray ground I believe near the coil.  This is all from memory and I'm sleepy so accept this advice with caution.

Oh, yes, and periodically mutter a "Thank You" that you have a donor car to pull all this stuff from.  :-)

65ShelbyClone

The clips are just a redundant safety feature; there is a garter spring inside the [spring-lock] connector that you have to release with a special tool in order separate them.

I found this video in a Google search:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xf8D0dOtv0k

Mine has Bundy fittings with plastic (one-time use) safety clips since it's pre-'87. I like the spring-locks better though.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

76hotrodpinto




Getting there. What's the deal with the fuel line connectors at the fuel rail? How do they disconnect. I removed the clip, bit I didn't get any further than that with them.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

Quote from: Wittsend on May 06, 2015, 10:40:51 AM
The biggest problem I had was when a wire color was used for multiple purposes. It would branch off in multiple directions and I'd have to chase it 4 or 5 different places. A wire to the VAM may go through the TPS and other places (as an example, not exact) before it gets to the ECU.  There is a resistor wire in the steering column. It says specifically on it "do not cut" but you have to to get it out. I never changed its length, but I did solder it. No other turbo swap person has ever mentioned it so maybe it is less critical than implied.

That was a PITA with mine too. Grounds went every which way and weren't always the same color (to be fair, most were yellow...or was it orange?) and some +12v wires branched every which way. Many were covered with melted tape adhesive. I remember the coil wires being daisy-chained to a bunch of other junk like HVAC or emissions sensors.

QuoteThere are also diodes imbedded in the harness. I can't recall if they have any function for engine management.

Yes they do. There's one for the idle valve that is reverse-biased so it protects the ECU driver from inductive kick when the valve is switched off. All the other solenoids and relays that are controlled by transistors have a flyback diode somewhere for that purpose.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

I liked the T/C seats a lot too. And thus, installed them in my Pinto. They do seem different though.  I'm 6' tall and long waisted (sitting I'm about as tall as someone 6'4").  I found that the power seat mechanism created too much of a problem height wise and mounted them to the Pinto rails. The seats are very tight side to side and it makes pulling out the difficult Pinto seat belt even harder.  Here is a link to what I did.

http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php?topic=11742.msg75729#msg75729

76hotrodpinto

Can I come use your patio? Aahahahaaa... I'm just stripping out the engine management systems. And maybe the power seat circuit, I may be putting those seats in too. Could be the most comfortable car seats I've ever rested my cheeks on!
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Wittsend

When I dissected my '88 harness I laid it out on the patio and spread it out like it is located in the car. The biggest problem I had was when a wire color was used for multiple purposes. It would branch off in multiple directions and I'd have to chase it 4 or 5 different places. A wire to the VAM may go through the TPS and other places (as an example, not exact) before it gets to the ECU.  There is a resistor wire in the steering column. It says specifically on it "do not cut" but you have to to get it out. I never changed its length, but I did solder it. No other turbo swap person has ever mentioned it so maybe it is less critical than implied.  There are also diodes imbedded in the harness. I can't recall if they have any function for engine management.

As I said before I used the T/C steering column, fuse box, relay box, wiper box and cruise control box. So, that added significantly to the problem.  My T/C also had ride control and ABS and those computers took a connector similar to the ECU (meaning many, many wires). Be careful about the grounds. They are soldered mid harness and branch all over the place.  I'm pretty sure the only thing going towards the back of the car is the fuel pump wiring (Primarily a Pink/black wire I recall). I highly recommend you keep the shut off switch.

All the best. If you are doing just the engine management, while not easy, it should be far simpler than the route I took.

76hotrodpinto

After pulling out the power steering pump and associated bracketry, I remembered that I don't want another hydraulic system on the pinto, so I'm hunting for the bellhousing and fork to run a cable.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

76hotrodpinto

Stripped the motor down to the block and head on the exhaust side. It came apart more gracefully than the other motors. Pretty clean for a driver too. Been tagging every plug as I go, and some hoses. Will strip down the other side tomorrow and tag more wires. Can't wait to start the loom separations... not. I have some nice diagrams though, and it is a mostly isolated system, just bundled with SO MUCH other stuff.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

65ShelbyClone

Quote from: Wittsend on May 05, 2015, 02:45:21 PM
So, it seems one should be careful what bleed orifice they use if they are mix/matching parts because a little, tiny hole can sure make a difference. Which, BTW I assume the boost can be altered simply using (making) a smaller orifice? This seems rather simple and cheap over the more expensive boost controls.

It is cheap and it does work, but I hear that small changes to the bleed diameter result in large changes to boost. A smaller orifice will decrease the maximum boost, BTW.

QuoteThe speed control and the engine RPM likely do make sense, but it must have a wide, delayed range given the action of gear changes and tire slippage.

I think the powertrain engineers figured that there wouldn't be any wheelspin with a 3400lb+ chassis and that if there was, ramping up the boost would only make it worse. It's my understanding that boost was limited below 4000rpm in order to preserve the transmissions.

QuoteFor those of us who forgo the speed sensor for the manual speedometer, do you think there is any adverse effect to the ignition/fuel/boost the ECU is allowing?  There are some Tee speedometer drives out there (I have one for a Halda Twinmaster) if I need to reestablish it.

The ECU probably falls back to some default behavior if it detects a VSS failure, but I don't know what that behavior is.

QuoteLastly, what is your take on the **** referring only to the overboost alarm. http://beta.askatech.com/askatechlive/aatfileshare/references/fasttrack/f023.pdf If you look at the larger table (83-86) the notation at the bottom definately is stating such saying "pressure warning." It is my inclination to see it as such for both (also given the column it appears in) and not an indicator of actual boost levels under and above certain RPM's.

It seems to indicate what the nominal boost levels are under which conditions although it is not at all clear. The overboost buzzer is typically tripped by a pressure switch, not the ECU, which would explain why I've never heard of one that triggered below ~17-18psi.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.