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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

2.3 L timing belt replacement and engine timing

Started by AndrewG, November 24, 2014, 01:07:50 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

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amc49

I've found that if a person is going to be stupid about a thing then he generally butchers the job even doing it the right way. There is not enough protection in the world to cover that.

dick1172762

Can't get that site to come up. You really should use the socket / breaker bar set up like the 3 of us stated. There is nothing to break on any car that I know of. There are videos on u-tube that show how to do it.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

AndrewG

Quote from: dick1172762 on November 27, 2014, 09:14:00 AM
Harbor Freight has a 1/2" drive electric impact wrench for $39 that will break loose any bolt on a 2.3 ford engine. I have one and its really great. And I don't have to fire up the compressor. You really shouldn't work on a car without the proper tools. You will do more harm than good.

Thanks for that information. 

Don't see the one for that price.  Which one would you recommend?

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=electric+impact+wrench

dick1172762

Harbor Freight has a 1/2" drive electric impact wrench for $39 that will break loose any bolt on a 2.3 ford engine. I have one and its really great. And I don't have to fire up the compressor. You really shouldn't work on a car without the proper tools. You will do more harm than good.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

AndrewG

Quote from: dick1172762 on November 26, 2014, 06:47:32 PM
If your talking about the bolt in the end of the crankshaft, put the correct size deep 1/2" drive socket on the bolt with a very long breaker bar. Place the end of the breaker bar on the frame rail , tie it down with some rope,  pull the coil wire out of the coil and hit the starter switch for just a second. Never seen one that didn't come loose. Works for me.
I know about that trick but rather not risk breaking something.  I don't have an impact wrench, so can't try that, although that sounds like a safer method.  Maybe I'll try the strap wrench (to hold the pulley) and hammer method.
Thanks for all the suggestions.

65ShelbyClone

Or instead of risk breaking something, simply use an impact wrench instead. There's plenty of room to get one in there looking at the photo.

I'm fixing a car now were nothing works because the previous owner half-@553D everything and wrecked the rest, so it just reinforces my refusal to take or recommend anything resembling a shortcut.
'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

74 PintoWagon

Thought everybody knew that trick, it's as old as the hills I think my Dad taught me that one, lol,
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

amc49

That idea works great, I use it from time to time too. I don't even tie down the bar, just rotate engine correct to hold it in place against any piece of frame or suspension I find that is real solid. Have the socket on firmly or it will twist the corners off bolt. Better to have the bar angle at less than 90 degrees than more. Never found a bolt it couldn't knock loose.

dick1172762

If your talking about the bolt in the end of the crankshaft, put the correct size deep 1/2" drive socket on the bolt with a very long breaker bar. Place the end of the breaker bar on the frame rail , tie it down with some rope,  pull the coil wire out of the coil and hit the starter switch for just a second. Never seen one that didn't come loose. Works for me.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

pinto_one

Done this quite a few times but it depends on which lower seal plate you have , some have more clearance at the very bottom and just enough room to remove and install the timing belt without removing the lower pulley, did this last year on out airport tug (Harlan) got a few at this airport ,  had to tilt that top of the belt towards you from the top sprocket and middle sprocket , hope you have a warm place to do it because the belt is stiff when cold,  if your luck and get it off that way put the new belt in hot water for a few , then quickly install the belt,  make sure it is free of any oil after, oil attacks the rubber and the teeth will sheer off or the belt will stretch and brake later, (like a valve cover leak ) if you do have to pull the lower pulley you need a strap wrench to hold the pulley , first you need to have to put a spacer or something close on top of the bolt and hit it a few times with a large hammer , helps , use a long pull bar to remove the bolt , better if you have air you could use a air impact gun, hope this helps , to bad your so far away I would do it for you , later , Blaine in Mississippi
76 Pinto sedan V6 , 79 pinto cruiser wagon V6 soon to be diesel or 4.0

AndrewG

One problem I'm having is removing the crankshaft pulley bolt.  It has been on for many years and isn't coming off.

Any suggestions regarding technique and tools that can get the job done?. 

AndrewG

Quote from: Wittsend on November 24, 2014, 11:48:52 PM
What I do is simply mark the belt and the two sprockets with paint. I mark two teeth on each sprocket/belt area  just so there is no misunderstanding. On the 2.3 I would include the third intermediate sprocket as well.  I then remove the belt (don't rotate anything) transfer the same marks to the new belt (double, even triple check), install the belt aligned to the previous set marks and carefully release the tensioner to ensure they stay aligned.  This doesn't negate most of the factory procedure,  rather I do it to remove the ambiguity that the timing marks I see and what the manual shows can be eliminated.  Just about any illustration I've ever seen in a manual never quite looks like what I see when I look at the marks....
Crank/cam timing is a specific count to teeth to specifically oriented sprockets.

Quote from: 65ShelbyClone on November 26, 2014, 01:32:51 AM
http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php?topic=23994.0

That's very helpful information!
Thanks.

65ShelbyClone

'72 Runabout - 2.3T, T5, MegaSquirt-II, 8", 5-lugs, big brakes.
'68 Mustang - Built roller 302, Toploader, 9", etc.

Wittsend

What I do is simply mark the belt and the two sprockets with paint. I mark two teeth on each sprocket/belt area  just so there is no misunderstanding. On the 2.3 I would include the third intermediate sprocket as well.  I then remove the belt (don't rotate anything) transfer the same marks to the new belt (double, even triple check), install the belt aligned to the previous set marks and carefully release the tensioner to ensure they stay aligned.  This doesn't negate most of the factory procedure,  rather I do it to remove the ambiguity that the timing marks I see and what the manual shows can be eliminated.  Just about any illustration I've ever seen in a manual never quite looks like what I see when I look at the marks.

So, as long as the engine ran right when removed the paint marks keep the same relationship as the old belt. If your belt was broken or if you suspect it has slipped a tooth..., well your going to have to rely on your skills to interpret the manual.

BTW, the timing belt and the ignition timing one does with a timing light are only remotely related.  That being the belt turns the shaft that drives the distributor.  so, if there was some wear/stretch to the belt the ignition timing may be off slightly.  But the timing light has no function of setting the crank/cam timing. Crank/cam timing is a specific count to teeth to specifically oriented sprockets.

74 PintoWagon

Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

D.R.Ball

Go to turboford.org or YouTube.com both have lot's of information and much better pictures than that book.

AndrewG

Can someone shed some light on this topic?
I want to replace the timing belt on my 2.3 L, but know that I must be careful not to change the orientation of the various sprokets on the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys.  The instructions I have are not that easy to see regarding details, (see attached), and I was hoping for some guidance here.  (I have done timing before and still have my timing light and dwell meter, so I know the process).  I just want to be clear about the timing marks that I can't make out for this engine, and their orientation.
Thanks