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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

electric fuel pump safety

Started by tonij1960, December 03, 2013, 07:58:05 PM

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ToniJ1960

 I had a 79 that had a little leak in the tank. I found the  spot and put some jb weld on it and it was fine for several years. I know some people  say fuel will soften it,but I suppose at least on that one so little contact was made with fuel it was fine for a while.

Its not as cold as it was but it might get a little bit warmer in the next few days I should get under it and look it over. Im more suspicious of a leaking hose as after the 27 years I owned it, I dont think I ever changed the back hoses. And its more likely to be the cause of a no start I would think. But either way it surely needs to be replaced by now and taking it off will let me know if gas is flowing out. That should tell me if the sock might be a problem. I think since the hose is old and being replaced anyway I can clamp it with vice grips so I dont lose a lot of gas on the ground or on me.

dick1172762

Pinto gas tanks will rust from the inside out. At first there will be a pin hole with stain around the pin hole. Remove the tank, empty it, turn it up side down, get a large soldering iron and solder over the pin hole after you clean the surface. NO DANGER of fire as the soldering iron will not set off a fire even when dip'd in gasoline. The coating on the outside of the tank makes the solder flow very good. I have done this on several tanks, and it always stops the leak.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

ToniJ1960

 Thank you Cheter the snow and ice is finally disappearing so I think Im going to try to get it going soon now. I had this car for over 27 years its my old friend.

I did notice a spot on the ground under the tank area that has that shadow look to it as if maybe some gas leaked and evaporate off the ground, so Im still planning to replace the rear gas hose. I guess then I`ll know if gas is coming out from the tank properly and go from there. Next would be replacing the rubber fuel hose in the front then the pump.

hotrod_man36

If you really want to put a electric fuel pump in your pinto give me a call I will help you in every thing you need. Parts and information. Ask several of the guys that know me from here on the pinto club site they will tell you I have help them with there problems buy phone and they have called me back to thank me. Time and information doesn't cost any thing to help. I have many years as a mechanic and shop time under my belt and build race engine now as a hobby. I enjoy helping my fellow Pinto and Hot Rodders . Call me any time at 304-952-7498. Thanks Chester
I am a ford guy and a pinto Fan.I have a 77 cruise wagon my self.The little pony pinto I think Did'nt get a fair shake in it's day and am glad to see people like me out there still have a love for the little sleeper that could..! LOL

RSM

The power valve is vacuum sensitive. At idle when the vacuum is highest the valve is closed. The purpose of the valve is to enrich the secondary fuel mixture when the vacuum drops ( moderate acceleration or WOT). One thing that will blow the power valve is a backfire. Using an electric fuel pump to prime the carb will not ever hurt the power valve.

amc49

FYI, fuel pressure has no effect on power valve at all except what would be caused by higher fuel level. And that would be very nominal, too high fuel pressure will flood the plugs long before any effect is seen by the power valve. Power valve operates from vacuum, a completely separate system there.

74WagonMeadowGreen

Never mind folks, my 78 passed just fine this morning. Good for another year. One caveat... she may have to go soon, much as I adore this car. My daughter is turning 16 and I will need to get her a car. I cannot afford to keep it and another, so if anybody is interested in a classic, 53000 ORIGINAL, perfect, pristine driving, well-kept Pinto, this is it! I have done a lot of work and it shows. I have all original purchase docs and books from new, it was sold new from Goodro Ford in Denver, and sports the original decal. It is a stellar vehicle. My friend put it on a lift when we put a new Catalytic convertor in... not one spec of rust!

74WagonMeadowGreen

My 78 is up for emission testing and failed. I tore the holley apart and did discover the power valve screws came loose and while in there did an overhaul. I installed all new rubber parts for good measure (we have methanol which does wonders to rubber) and upon reassembling, the carb flooded (new design viton float valve). I quickly took the top off, and returned the original float valve, solving the problem. One change I made earlier this year is putting an electric pump on as my car sits alot and it saves much cranking. I fear it could be providing too much pressure, and even when not flooding, overpump the delicate power valve structure causing to to run too rich. Any thoughts?

amc49

The modern era ones that run inside fuel tank are marvels as long as one does not run them out of gas. There was a recall on Focus cars over them and pumps yanked but both I have I simply dropped tank and cleaned out the sock, which was the problem,and reused same pumps. Cars have now gone for years after doing it. The initial issue was ethanol laced fuel being used carried water based trash with it, the makers realized pretty quick they were going to be sued into bankruptcy if they didn't get a handle on it. And why now Exxon trucks all ethanol rather than shove it through pipelines. Doing so cost them many millions in pipeline damage.

I put plenty of electric pumps on street cars back in the day but they did not last as long as mechanical ones to me either.

74 PintoWagon

Just never been a fan of electric pumps, don't know how many times I've stopped to help someone stranded on the side of the road because of a dead electric pump, to me they're just one more thing to take dump, of course I know some that never had a problem with them too, lol, guess it's a matter of preference.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

amc49

Bigger one goes to pump, smaller one comes back. provided of course one is not an emission hose. Been a long time since I was under a Pinto. Mustang II? Yeah, I got that.

Funny though, I now have '80 Pinto wagon and the Mustang? She gave up the ghost in the great hailstorm of '95, the one with the 6 inch diameter stones that destroyed half of downtown Fort Worth.

ToniJ1960

 No I meant just leaving the old pump on the engine not inline still at all. And just mostly thinking wqhat I can do to try and have everything on hand to get it done once under the car rather than twice under the car. I know the first ting to do is pull off the hose from the tank to the line that goes to the pump and see if gas comes out of it. Im planning on changing the rubber hose in any even I know theyre as old as the car is probably.

In fact if theres two hoses from the tank or one from and one to, how do I tell the one that goes to the pump? The top or bottom one? Its been 10 years at least since I saw the metal cover on the tank that the hoses connect on. I think theres two that go to it. The last time I saw it was when I changed the sock well that was on my 79.

amc49

As he says. The 'impact' switch is not necessary, they only started using them when the fuel pressure bumped way up for FI, a small leak that causes a fire in wreck becomes a misting fogger with higher pressure FI to produce explosions rather than fires. The impact switch can be mounted anywhere, but absolutely needs to be mounted in correct orientation to work best. Just like the car you get it from, and only available from junkyards pretty much. I never sold a one at the parts store ever and thinking can't get them. Dealer part only.

Anywhere around 5-7 psi pump will do, and yes it can deadhead with needle closed and no harm but depending on the one you get may not be quite as reliable as the mechanical one is longterm. The mechanical pump will pump trash through that can bring the electric one down depending on the type, diaphragm or impeller. The impeller type can scar up with dirt or sand going through it.

Ford FI needs no main pump power bypass because PCM is set up to run pump for 2 seconds at key on to prime the FI even if you don't crank. Modern ones don't bypass fuel back to tank anymore, rather they use a 'driver module' that speeds up or slows down pump based on demand, it makes pump last longer but PCM has to control that feature.



' Im NOT SURE YET what the issue is it could be the sock filter or the hoses or a hose. Or it could be the pump. I just thought for a minute an electric fuel pump might b eeasier to install I could even leave the old one on the engine I guess.

I always preferred the original parts, and I remember my thoughts the first time I heard of someone having a fuel pump inside the gas tank.

But its getting cold Im getting old and just want an easier way............'


Caps by me.

Your stuff and do what you will but this is not easier. Throwing parts at it anyway as long as you do not positively verify that tank and sock and lines are clean and open. Nothing wrong with electric pump idea except if lines or sock clogged, you haven't cured anything in that case. No way would I be doing any of this without the lines and other known clean and working FIRST, and then most likely no problem by then anyway. Pumping through the old pump is not intuitive either, what if it is part of the problem too? In short, casting around for cures that may or may not work but not dealing directly with the problem there to get to 100% working perfect and DONE. Murphy's Law generally doubles up on you when yo do that.

No insult or injury meant to anyone at all but having done this stuff for many years I've learned to fix what's broke, not what I think is broke, two totally different things there. I watched that happen so much at the parts store it was incredible, and thousands wasted on ideas that 50% of the time only burned cash and patience. Many people get close to problem fixes but then meandering ideas make them drop sight of the ball to fumble around for a good while.

Luck....................

Wittsend

I do not know if the regular parts stores carry the shut off switch.  Assuming you have a pump in the approximate 4-6 PSI range or a regulator (you should  use one  anyway) then, no I do not believe you need a return line.  More often than not the return lines are on the injected cars running double digit PSI. The return line both bleeds off excess regulated pressure and by the recirculating process cools the fuel.

Note that some manufactures use an oil pressure switch and when the pressure goes too low the current cuts off.  As you noted there is a timed bypass needed for starting. Also there can be situations where a fuel leak can still occur because the engine continues to run.  Not every tragic accident cause the engine to stop running.

HOSS429

Quote from: Wittsend on December 04, 2013, 11:54:14 AM

  You should also have a second shut off switch within reach of the driving position.  Carburetor flooding, and thus, fire potential necessitates this switch.  I would NOT use the ignition switch as the only on/off switch for an electric fuel pump. :

i had forgotten about that .. i have a hidden toggle off/on switch for my electric pump i use as a theft devise ....

ToniJ1960

 Is that impact shut off switch a part I can buy at an auto pars place like AZ or OReilly? Theyre a lot closer to me than any of the junk yards are.

And do these electriv fuel pumps need a bypass line back to the tank or can they run ok without one so if the bowl is full is and the needle is seated it wont hurt it?

I wonder if theres a good way to make something to send 12v to it only when the engine is running and add in a start up on time to the circuit?

Wittsend

As to the wired:
All the injected Ford cars have the "impact" shut off switch. It is about one inch square and should be mounted in the very rear of the car. It simply wires in-line with 12V+. These can be found in self serve yards in the trunk area. This switch should work equally well for an electric pump on a carburetor set-up.
  You should also have a second shut off switch within reach of the driving position.  Carburetor flooding, and thus, fire potential necessitates this switch.  I would NOT use the ignition switch as the only on/off switch for an electric fuel pump. The switch can be suspect to carry the constant current.  And, in a panic you could easily lock the steering column.  While both these switches can be in a constant on position (until need to deactivate) you can use a relay off the ignition switch for convenience to initially be the source of power.

So, in summary the setup should be as follows:

Ignition switch (on/off) to fuel pump relay sourced from a point that can handle the current, - to dash mounted on/off switch, - to Ford "impact" switch, - to the fuel pump.

Lastly, for older cars that do not get driven much I DO recommend an electric fuel pump. Otherwise you are left to heavily crank the car until the float bowl fills up, - or use a hose, funnel and cup of gas to refill.

Tom

ToniJ1960

 Im not sure yet what the issue is it could be the sock filter or the hoses or a hose. Or it could be the pump. I just thought for a minute an electric fuel pump might b eeasier to install I could even leave the old one on the engine I guess.

I always preferred the original parts, and I remember my thoughts the first time I heard of someone having a fuel pump inside the gas tank.

But its getting cold Im getting old and just want an easier way :)

amc49

The pump circuit must have a positive on/off switch to work it.

Mount pump close to tank and low but for sure clearing all rear end movement. Easier for a pump to push than pull.

You realize of course that a stock mechanical pump up on motor is just as reliable as the electric one if things are corrected in tank pickup and lines are clear right? You're changing things that may not have that much impact on your issue. The electric pump can run into exact same issues as the mechanical one if you don't fix your troublesome fuel pickup in tank. Just thought you should know.............

Reeves1

Google: inline fuel pumps

Here are a couple examples

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Diy/12V-In-Line-Fuel-Pump/8144354.p

I'll be using one that is more expensive....I have more motor to feed though !

https://www.holley.com/12-700.asp

HOSS429

mount it near the tank .. pumps push better than they pull .. i`ve had an electric on my V6 pinto for 9 years now .. i will try to find out what kind .. a little square thing .. i got it a advanced auto or orielys ..one of those places ..

ToniJ1960

Quote from: amc49 on December 03, 2013, 08:16:31 PM
Patch in a 'tee' to put the idiot light pressure switch back in, added benefit is you can have both light and gauge, a good setup. Light alerts you to look at gauge in time of need...................may want to put in a bypass to temporarily bypass switch if car sits. Normally enough fuel remains in carb to get engine running long enough to shut out light and bring pump online but sometimes you want to be sure you have fuel bowl filled, can't do that with the pressure switch system. Say if car sat for 2 weeks in summer. You'd be amazed at how quick fuel can evap from a fuel bowl in summer heat.

Is there any option other than that?

And where is best to mount an electric ump by the tank or in front? The one I saw just looks like it has a strap around it.

amc49

Patch in a 'tee' to put the idiot light pressure switch back in, added benefit is you can have both light and gauge, a good setup. Light alerts you to look at gauge in time of need...................may want to put in a bypass to temporarily bypass switch if car sits. Normally enough fuel remains in carb to get engine running long enough to shut out light and bring pump online but sometimes you want to be sure you have fuel bowl filled, can't do that with the pressure switch system. Say if car sat for 2 weeks in summer. You'd be amazed at how quick fuel can evap from a fuel bowl in summer heat.

ToniJ1960

 Im thinking maybe I will put in an electric fuel pump and change my lines all at once and get it over with.

Two things ae on my mind before I decide.

Whats a good one thats still inexpensive and how to mount it.

Also, they say they should be wired through the oil pressuire switch. My light sender was removed and I have an oil pressure gauge now with the little plastic tube that sends oil to the gauge. What are my options for safety?