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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

How do I replace the 2nd gear band in a C4 automatic

Started by mrmellowgold, October 21, 2013, 09:20:00 PM

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amc49

Once you realize how the clutch pistons all seal up with a simple seal like the front or rear seal in a motor the rotating part of an ATX is history. After that all that matters is the bushings are tight and all thrust washers and other parts are in the correct place. The big bugaboo of ATX is the scary valve body and if you have a manual to show where valves go and simply pay attention to not mixing springs up then piece of cake rebuilding trans, especially these early ones with only one real important clearance check at the end play of the whole mess. Watch end plays close at each clutch pack too and no reason why you can't rebuild one successfully. Other than that clean is the word and no reason why you can't have one last for years, the very first one I did (Chrysler Hemi Torqueflite A727 type modded to be used by AMC) lasted for like 9 years, I pulled it down once when the rear band broke from the extra firm shift I picked with the B&M valve body. The kit modified like so was hard on that band, I replaced it and went right back to the super hard 2nd gear scratch that so freaked people out. The trans went from a 360 Hornet to a 258 six Concord (replacing an A904) and even more freaking out when THAT one would lay down hard 2nd gear rubber as well. I loved that B&M kit..............

I now rebuild my electronic trannies as well, last one out of Contour still going at 6 years now. Even the trans shops have fits with that one, the CD4E, and it still gives Ford fits now as well in Escapes. I have no idea why other than attention to detail, the trans is very b-tchy about having the correct parts as it has been modded so many times, first by Mazda and then later by Ford. It DOES have one major flaw but easily fixed, just no one ever does it at rebuild time, kinda stupid if you ask me..........all the rebuilders know of the flaw but don't lift a finger to fix it when they build the trans.

Point being, if you understand the workings of motors and can routinely go into them with good result then no reason why you can't save even more doing your own ATX. Only really necessary thing is that service manual with all the clearances in it, you set them up as stated and clutch packs last forever. I should probably point out that I do them with no garage or lift at all, think about that one for a bit. The CD4E was supposed to have a special tool set at $200, I managed to creatively avoid buying that toolset by careful thinking and some very cheap cobbled up measuring tools.

bbobcat75

CONGRATES ON THE TRANSMISSION REBUILD!!!

TAKE CARE AND GOOD LUCK!!!

ITS ALWAYS COOL HAVING THE OLDEST AND DIFFERENT CAR IN ANY PARKING LOT!!
1975 mercury bobcat 2.8 auto
1975 ford pinto - drag car - 2.3l w/t5 trans - project car

74 PintoWagon

Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

mrmellowgold

I've been away from the forums for a while now, but I am happy to say that after we took the transmission out and replaced the band, got seals, mounts, waiting weeks trying to find the time and parts to utilize-the Pinto is on the road!!!!!
Last night we decided to hook everything back up after the long 8 hours of putting the transmission back in. We realized that we were kinda close to having a supposed running car. So we slapped everything back together in an hour or two.

At the first turn of the key, nothing happened. at all. We pondered for almost an hour, retracing our steps, looking for something we might have missed, then finally I spotted a big wire not plugged into another. I have no idea what it was still but I plugged t in and BOOM! My very first car finally runs as it should!

Took it out for about a 20 mile drive last night, worked great. Today drove it to school, where it sits in the parking lot looking so obscure being the oldest car in a 5 mile radius.

Hoping the transmission stays the way it should, and I must say that it has been such a rewarding feeling.

jeremysdad


amc49

As he says, you got no business building engines any dirtier than ATX, they both need CLEAN at rebuild time. A couple grains of sand from fingers on back of bearing shell about to be installed and kiss that engine goodbye.

74 PintoWagon

A sand granule in a new motor= dead too, lol, cleanliness is a key factor though.. Here's how I learned how to rebuild them, don't know if they still have them now or not but back in the early 80's B&M used to have a complete rebuild kit in a box with a shift kit, and it came with a full step by step manual with pictures on teardown and assembly along with a few tricks for improvement(think I still have it laying around someplace, lol) I admit I was nervous as heck doing the first one but after I got done I realized how simple they are to do, been doing them ever since piece a cake.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

jeremysdad

Quote from: amc49 on October 30, 2013, 09:09:42 PM
Get a service manual for the trans and follow it, if you can work on engines there is no reason why you can't ATX.

But!!! They live on fluid!!!... I almost see your point, but I don't have a mentor local...and...it's ATX!!! lol You add one sand granule...dead. :(

amc49

Get a service manual for the trans and follow it, if you can work on engines there is no reason why you can't ATX.

74 PintoWagon

I was scared of them too until I took one apart and found out how simple they are,lol..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

jeremysdad

This is something I've always been terrified of. I won't even change the fluid on one anymore...(well...I guess this one puked all of it's fluid along Hwy 70...thank goodness there was an Autozone in range...).

A decent shop will charge you ~400 for a C-4, parts included. Crooked shop? Well...they go up from there. lol Just don't expect the same valve body installed as what you sent them, they'll take it for a 'tip'. ;)

74 PintoWagon

Just make sure the torque converter is all the way in before you bolt the tranny up, with the tranny bolted up the converter should slide forward to the flexplate, if it's already tight up to the flexplate that means the converter is not engaged in the pump properly. Unless you get real lucky, when you put the converter in you'll feel it hit, keep pushing lightly and turn at the same time until it goes in again, when it does it's engaged in the pump.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

mrmellowgold

When I get home today, i plan on securing the intermediate band in properly and adjusting it. I already let it soak and everything. It is already in the trans in fact. We put the front drum and the pump and bell housing back on with the band loose in there and are going to put it in place from the oil pan area. I put everything back the way it came out. The rear drum and whatever the hell else is back there did not come out, as I made a conscious effort not to mess with all that, just the front one. I did not see any tricks or anything standing out that made it very tricky when putting it back together, but i can not help but to worry that when we put it back in after all this work that it won't do right.
   Today I need to slap some fluid on the servos, apply the gaskets, and stick them in. Then adjust the band, put pan back on, stick the notched rod thingy back into the transmission (i am very new to this so excuse my lack of terminology). Reconnect everything that was taken off the transmission during the drop, struggle and feel anger towards the hunk of aluminum while mounting it back in, put new mount on, attach drive shaft. OOOOOhhh boy....


Please, give me any tips, hints, problems I may run into, things to remember and to account for while doing so, reminders, everything and anything! I just really want to drive my very first car! Thanks everyone

74 PintoWagon

Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

mrmellowgold

Pulled the transmission out this weekend. Took off the the pump and removed the servos. cleaned the servo pump and everything. put the new band in but i still need to secure it in properly. need to get all new gaskets before i continue. Got a rear and a front seal, but the front one is totally not the right size so have to get another. the rear one fit well. Everything inside the trans looks nice and clean. I never imagined that i would work on a transmission in my entire life! hopefully when we put it back in, we wont have to pull it out for a looooooooooooong time

amc49

As he says, that one not hard anyway since only going into it a little bit. Main thing is to keep track of the thrust washers to put them back in exactly like they were.

No way would I be putting any band in that does not require trans to pull out, the band works partly based on having the metal backing behind it. Do it right, a real band.

ANYONE can do an ATX, all you need is a good manual. I have no formal training at all and have successfully rebuilt every one I've ever done, and not talking lasting only a year. If it doesn't last 8-10 years I'm upset about it. All you need is the manual to show you critical clearances and thrust washer locations. Then pay attention to load bearing surfaces, or the bushings. Piece of cake.

74 PintoWagon

Not if you take your time and pay attention, be surprised how simple they are. :D
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

HOSS429

you can really mess up a lot of stuff quickly if you dive blindly into an automatic trans ..

74 PintoWagon

Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

mrmellowgold

Any idea how much it would cost to have a shop do it?

74 PintoWagon

That is correct and you'll have to pull the pump and servo off. Check out the video it'll show you how.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

mrmellowgold

Okay. i understand now.
So i will need to pull the transmission to install the kevlar band right?

74 PintoWagon

No I didn't say that, kevlar band is the way to go and what I recommend, the weak soft "snap band" is not a good idea, only thing with the hard band you will have to pull the tranny to install it since it's not flexible. Don't understand why you're confused though..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

mrmellowgold

I dont know if i made it clear earlier, but my pinto ran great and drove fine except it just simply did not go into second gear, it just went from 1st to 3rd, and vise-versa. We popped open the pan and drained it. We then pulled out a snapped band. It is in half and out of the transmission. I assume it is the second gear band and that is what is preventing the car from shifting into second gear. makes sense to me? But we are going to order a brand new 2nd gear intermediate band for a C4 form ebay.
So are you saying that I shouldn't use a Kevlar band? i am just confused as to what you are saying is a bad idea.

74 PintoWagon

As I said the snap band is a bandaid but works for an emergency as long as you don't put the power to it, they are soft and can be slid around, of course that's if the band is actually broke so you can get it out. You are sure it's the front brake band right?(check diagram), if it's the low-rev band then it has to come apart. I still recommend taking it apart and put a good band in, it's really pretty simple deal. There's quite a few tutorials on this on the net, here's an 8 part on U-Tube on the C-4.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMYjns0Gmoo
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

mrmellowgold

Why do you not recommend it? Do you mean the 'snap band' is the replacement intermediate band?
Also, if we pulled it out without having dropped the transmission, doesn't that mean that we can install the new intermediate 2nd gear band without pulling the transmission out?

I can not find even one walk-through or guide online about installing one either... It is kind of annoying  :(

74 PintoWagon

If it's the front band you can change it in the car with a  "Snap band"(I don't recommend it)drop the pan and VB and it's right there, it's a soft band and pretty much a bandaid fix is all it is, otherwise you'll have to pull the tranny, not a big deal it's just behind the pump.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

mrmellowgold

I just figured out that my second gear issue is most likely due to the broken 2nd gear band that my stepfather and I pulled out. I is split in two, clean break. Transmission fluid looked very clean. It is the only thing preventing me from driving it around. I was hoping somebody could explain how to replace it with a new one (which we are buying off ebay) and properly adjust it. It is a 73 wagon, automatic.
Please let me know any and everything you have to offer. This is the last step to getting my Pinto on the road!