Mini Classifieds

t-5 2.3 trans and new flywheel cluch and pressure plate though out bearing for sale
Date: 09/12/2018 04:07 pm
Wanted hood hinges
Date: 02/17/2020 05:30 pm
Wanted 71-73 Pinto grill
Date: 03/09/2019 10:45 pm
1971 Pinto Do It Yourself Manual

Date: 03/06/2017 01:19 am
Automatic transmission
Date: 02/13/2021 02:52 pm
1977 Pinto Cruising Wagon FOR SALE

Date: 08/20/2017 01:34 pm
Pinto 4-spd transmissions
Date: 06/15/2018 09:15 am
Clutch/brake pedal assemble
Date: 12/21/2017 11:26 am
Bumper, grill and fender wanted
Date: 12/24/2016 04:13 pm

Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

Members
Stats
  • Total Posts: 139,575
  • Total Topics: 16,267
  • Online today: 614
  • Online ever: 2,670 (Yesterday at 01:57:20 AM)
Users Online
  • Users: 0
  • Guests: 540
  • Total: 540
F&I...more

My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

i have a few ?'s pertaining to a 78 2.3 motor

Started by ryan1, November 02, 2012, 06:50:33 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

amc49

You need to verify the one mark IS TDC, it may well be a base timing mark for an earlier PCM controlled engine and not be TDC...........if the engine still used a distributor and not crank/cam sensors alone. Common one mark and it was NOT TDC on my Tempos of the time..........

ryan1

Quote from: dick1172762 on July 25, 2014, 12:00:31 PM
In 41 years I have NEVER seen a 2.3L motor with out a indexed lower pulley. I have owned 14 of the 2.3L Pintos. Your just not looking hard enough. You have to remove the pulley and clean 30 years of crud off. The index numbers are VERY hard to see because they are only about .012 deep. After you find them take a yellow tire marker and  rub over the numbers till they are full of the yellow marker. Wipe of the excess yellow, and spray over the numbers with spray can clear paint. Job done.
i took the serpentine set-up off the 2.0 (dont know if was stock or not) and put that on the 78 2.3, so that crank pulley only has a line on it and the 78 timing cover only has a pointer on it.

dick1172762

In 41 years I have NEVER seen a 2.3L motor with out a indexed lower pulley. I have owned 14 of the 2.3L Pintos. Your just not looking hard enough. You have to remove the pulley and clean 30 years of crud off. The index numbers are VERY hard to see because they are only about .012 deep. After you find them take a yellow tire marker and  rub over the numbers till they are full of the yellow marker. Wipe of the excess yellow, and spray over the numbers with spray can clear paint. Job done.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

amc49

Obviously serpentine pulleys are not the same...................and timing belt? Some are round tooth and some are square, you have to match them to sprockets.

ryan1

do all 2.3 timing belt covers and crank pulleys fit all 2.3's
mine is a 78 2.3, was thinking of putting a 86 cover and crank pulley on mine?

ryan1

bring back a old post,i brought the truck out again after a long winter.
does anyone know the jet,ect sizes in a 78 or 79 model 5200?
i rebuild the carb and the truck runs better, but still dont seem 100 correct.

Pinto5.0

Quote from: Clydesdale80 on November 12, 2012, 10:57:39 AM
Couldn't you use a protractor to measure 10 degrees on the pulley?

If the protractor is the same diameter or a little smaller you could use a ruler across the center of the bolt to the 10 degree mark & paint a line. 

I have a dial back timing light that I set to my desired advance then you just line up the TDC marks & you're dead on.
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

Clydesdale80

Couldn't you use a protractor to measure 10 degrees on the pulley?
Bought a 1978 hatchback to be my first car.

Clydesdale80

Ok, I understand what u did now. I would measure the distance to 10 BTDC but I was only home for the weekend.
Bought a 1978 hatchback to be my first car.

ryan1

thanks, my pulley does not have these marks, can u measure the distance for me on yours from tdc to 10 before.

i think im going to have to check cam timing also just to be sure that is correct to.

just for clearification, i went and measured the marks on the timing cover from the 2.0 from tdc to 10 atdc was 1/2 to 5/8 of a inch. so since my 78 timing cover only has a pointer and no marks, what i did was made a mark on my crank pulley a 1/2 inch lower than the stock notch on the pulley, so i use my new mark to line up with the tdc pointer essentially making it 10 btdc.

Clydesdale80

Just to make sure, this is what the marks look like sorry the engine isn't all together.
these are the marks on the back side of the crank pulley that you should be looking at while using your timing light.




this notch just above the crankshaft is the pointer for the crank pulley, when this lines up with the TC on the pulley the engine is at Top Dead Center.




Also if you want to check your cam timing this is a picture to clarify what i said earlier about lining up the mark with a line between the centers of the two gears.

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=ford+2.3+timing+pulley&hl=en&sa=X&tbo=d&biw=1092&bih=507&tbm=isch&tbnid=JxQp9T5DZNhVeM:&imgrefurl=http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2-3l-tech/233176-1993-mustang-4-cylinder-na-timing-troubles.html&docid=yGfiUcD-MGrboM&imgurl=http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/2-3l-tech/97936d1273109152-1993-mustang-4-cylinder-na-timing-troubles-picture_01.jpg&w=1024&h=768&ei=BCagUMXBFcf_ygGO04EY&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=4&vpy=114&dur=748&hovh=195&hovw=260&tx=107&ty=122&sig=114359488494269302794&page=2&tbnh=132&tbnw=160&start=12&ndsp=19&ved=1t:429,r:18,s:0,i:125


If your engine doesn't have these marks it will be hard to set the timing accurately, hope this helps.
Bought a 1978 hatchback to be my first car.

ryan1

i pressure washed the motor,wire wheeled some rust parts and painted the motor and accessories before installing it in the ranger, i did not see any marks
i made the mark lower then the original mark on the crank pulley and used my new mark, its advanced not retarded.

Clydesdale80

Ya if you have the ignition timing retarded that much it will definitely kill power. I have two '78 2.3 engines and both have degree numbers engraved on the farthest back edge of the crank pulley and a slot in the block to line things up with. They are usually dirty and hard to see but look for these marks and it will make your timing much more accurate.
Bought a 1978 hatchback to be my first car.

Pinturbo75

you want before top dead center not after....so you want to advance it toward the 12 oclock position..... after woud be towards the 3 oclock positon...... retarding the timing will kill drivability and power.....
75 turbo pinto trunk, megasquirt2, 133lb injectors, bv head, precision 6265 turbo, 3" exhaust,bobs log, 8.8, t5,, subframe connectors, 65 mm tb, frontmount ic, traction bars, 255 lph walbro,
73 turbo pinto panel wagon, ms1, 85 lb inj, fmic, holset hy35, 3" exhaust, msd, bov,

ryan1

yes the stumbling is when accelerating.

as far as the timing goes, i did not check the timing at the timing belt at all, i just turned the dizzy to advance base/initial timing to a 1/2 inch ahead of the stock mark on the crank.

what i did for timing is,,, i marked my stock crank pulley a 1/2 inch lower than the stock notch/mark on the crank and then removed the vac. advance line from the dizzy and put my timing light on and used my homemade line to line up with the pointer on the 78 timing cover, i figured a 1/2 inch is about 10 atdc, i figured that mark cause on my 2.0 timing cover from tdc to atdc it was 5/8..

Pinturbo75

just some info on the 2.0 ranger motor..... it is a lima just like the 2.3..... it has a smaller bore but everything is the same as our pinto motors....it uses a round port head with very small chambers, the runners are higher than a standard oval or dport.... the later ranger(see early carb 2.3engine) has a better round port head with larger chambers and is kinda sought after for porting and getting nice gains in flow....not easy to find but worth having..
75 turbo pinto trunk, megasquirt2, 133lb injectors, bv head, precision 6265 turbo, 3" exhaust,bobs log, 8.8, t5,, subframe connectors, 65 mm tb, frontmount ic, traction bars, 255 lph walbro,
73 turbo pinto panel wagon, ms1, 85 lb inj, fmic, holset hy35, 3" exhaust, msd, bov,

Clydesdale80

 
Quote from: ryan1 on November 03, 2012, 05:50:39 PM

i got the truck ideling at 1000 to 1100 rpm, 20 inch vacuum, and advanced it roughly 6-8 degres inititial timing, the timing i just moved it about a 1/2 up from the pointer (on the 78 timing cover there is only a pointer and no marks

I was rereading your earlier posts and I am kinda wondering if there is something wrong with your cam timing.  It shouldn't be possible to change the timing by any increment smaller than one tooth.  Sometimes the pointers on the belt cover can get bent a little and throw people of.  a more accurate way to set the timing is to use a string or a straight-edge to make a line between the center of the cam gear and the distributor gear. If you line the mark on the cam gear up with that line while the engine is at exactly tdc(marked on crank pulley and a slot in the block) the engine should be timed properly.  When i got my car the timing belt was off one notch because there was no timing cover and the previous owner guessed.  the car would rev fine just sitting in the driveway but would stumble and stall if u asked much of it while driving. I also had cam with flat lobes but it did help a lot having the cam timing just right.  Just a thought i decided might be worth mentioning.
Bought a 1978 hatchback to be my first car.

Clydesdale80

you can check the float level, it'd run rich if too high and lean if too low, there should should be a screw you remove from a hole on the fuel bowl to check the level. once again i dont have experience with this specific carb but if its like a holley then you want the fuel to be right at the bottom of that hole. from your description of it stumbling under load, I wouldn't think it would be the accelerator pump because that only comes into play when you are in the process of opening the throttle(stepping on it).  I could be wrong if you mean its stumbling under the load of accelerating.
Bought a 1978 hatchback to be my first car.

ryan1

the carb was clean, i sprayed out all the passages with carb cleaner also, prior to installing it.
i dont really know alot about carbs,but from the researching i have been doing it sounds like maybe the float level could be wrong or the acc. pump not working, anyone have a thought on that.

Clydesdale80

How clean looking is the carb? Sometimes they just need gone through to get things to work right, otherwise I'm not sure. I was in the middle of attempting to tune mine when I discovered that both the exhaust and intake cam lobes for cylinder #4 were basically gone. I guess you could try running a quarter turn leaner than what u tuned it to and then a quarter turn richer and see if the stumble goes away.
Bought a 1978 hatchback to be my first car.

ryan1

Quote from: Clydesdale80 on November 03, 2012, 06:01:48 PM
i googled motorcraft 5200 carb and it was in the second row of images. the pointer is where you want the mark on the camshaft to be at TDC, the engine will still run if its a tooth off either direction but it definitely will run best when its on that mark.
Thanks, yeah I advance the timing a little I would say to about 10 btdc
Any ideas on the stumbling problem under load

Clydesdale80

i googled motorcraft 5200 carb and it was in the second row of images. the pointer is where you want the mark on the camshaft to be at TDC, the engine will still run if its a tooth off either direction but it definitely will run best when its on that mark.
Bought a 1978 hatchback to be my first car.

ryan1

clydesdale80 were did you find that pic?

i got the truck ideling at 1000 to 1100 rpm, 20 inch vacuum, and advanced it roughly 6-8 degres inititial timing, the timing i just moved it about a 1/2 up from the pointer (on the 78 timing cover there is only a pointer and no marks.

the truck free revs great sounds healthy comes down to idel nice,ect,ect, but when put under load/driving at 2000 to 2500 ish rpms it hesitates and stumbles, again only under load.


Clydesdale80

I don't personally have that carb because the previous owner swapped it for a 350cfm holley but i found this picture on google

The vacuum advance port apears to be to the right of the EGR port
Bought a 1978 hatchback to be my first car.

ryan1

Quote from: Clydesdale80 on November 03, 2012, 01:06:06 PM

Vacuum advance was originally hooked up to ported vacuum on the carb (port that receives vacuum from above the throttle plate). There has been some debate as to whether it should be moved to manifold vacuum(intake) but I believe the general consensus is that it only benefits engines with large cams. I recommend the stock location for if your engine is mostly stock.



what port is that on the motorcraft 5200 2bbl?

Clydesdale80

I think i can help with a couple questions, i'm new to the 2.3 since i bought my pinto last spring but have done alot of reading since then.

Vacuum advance was originally hooked up to ported vacuum on the carb (port that receives vacuum from above the throttle plate). There has been some debate as to whether it should be moved to manifold vacuum(intake) but I believe the general consensus is that it only benefits engines with large cams. I recommend the stock location for if your engine is mostly stock.

My engine hasn't been been in my car for awhile(I'm in the middle of the build right now) and i didn't have a tach but I think 800 is about right.  I was just setting idle as low as i could without having hard starts or stumbles.

The sticker on my 78 2.3's valve cover recommends initial timing of 6* BTDC + or - 2*. I remember reading on this site that people set it closer to 10* for a little more power but if you hear any pinging with that much timing you will want to retard it a little.

When using a vacuum gauge to tune a carb, the gauge should be attached to manifold vacuum.

I don't have alot of experience because i discovered my engine to have severe camshaft issues that were messing up my tuning so most of this information is from reading on this site.  sorry if i made any mistakes, hope the info helps.
Bought a 1978 hatchback to be my first car.

78_starsky

hi ryan,  i can't help you with the 2.3 questions, however just wanted to give you a couple good ranger sites incase you don't get answers that help fully. i know the guys in pinto site are good with 2.3's and it never hurts for more information.

cheers

www.therangerstation.com

and

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/

ryan1

i have a few ?'s pertaining to a 78 ford fairmont 2.3 motor, that i swapped into my 83 ford ranger.

i bought the ranger with a blown motor (2.0) ,my buddy had a 78 fairmont with a good 2.3 in it,so i pulled that and put it in the ranger.

so here are the spec on the truck now.
all stock 78 2.3 2bbl with all the emissions stuff removed
stock ranger 4 speed that came with the truck (the truck was org. a 2.0)

o.k. to my ?'s...

does anyone have a diagram of all the ports and also adjustment screws on the stock 5200 2bbl.

what is base timing with the vac. advance not hooked up. also the timing cover on the 78 only has 1 pointer on it is that tdc, if it is and i want to advance it a little is there a good way to measure that with out havin any timing marks.

will the 83 2.0 timing cover fit the 78 2.3, i noticed that had timing marks on it, if so are they the same marks as a 2.3 would have.

my main ?'s for now are...
were do i hook up the vacuum advance to, intake or carb, if carb what port.
i want to hook up a tach and set base idel speed, i asuume 800 rpm
i want to set the base initial timing.
i want to tune the carb, iirc i hook up a vacuum gauge to the carb and get the highest vacuum, but i cant remember what port to hook that too also, and if that is the correct way.

i have not messed with carbs much, mostly fuel injected stuff.