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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

2.0 Plug Clearance issue

Started by jhitesma, September 05, 2003, 08:12:46 PM

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Renaultfool

I just logged on and I am glad you found a fix. I used to race these in IMSA and SCCA road racing and found that the 18mm plugs would not only hit but at high rpms would cause the engine to cut out due to ionazation inside of the plug shell due to the large volume of trapped combustion gasses. The symptom was ignition cut out on long full throttle straights.
Pegusus Racing Supply in Wisconsin makes an adapter for this 18mm tapered seat that adapts it down to a 10mm plug which places the ground electrode higher in the combustion chamber which is better for clearance and also has much less volume inside the shell. Their adapters used to cost about $5 each.

jhitesma

Found a solution today!  

Short version:  NKG AP8FS (2227) plugs.

Long Version:

Called the shop that built my motor and explained the situation.  They offered to tear it down, machine the pistons for more clerance, and then reassemble it for what I felt was a reasonable price...but which was also more than I have available right now.

So I explained my other two ideas to them:

1) Find a surface fire plug like those used in outboards.  They liked this idea but doubted I could find 18mm tapered seat surface fire plugs...and predicted that they'd be expensive if I could.

2) Take the 18mm->14mm adapters I bought and put a weld bead around them then machine it down to add a taper as well as adjust the depth the adapter would sit.  The felt this was probably possible but without seeing the adapters couldn't say for sure.

So....I did some major legwork (3 hours worth) today.

First I went to a good local machine shop and asked about modifying my adapters.  No go.  They said they could probably do it but unless it was my only option didn't want to try.  

Next I hit a well stocked NAPA with guys behind the counter who can do more than just ask "what car is it out of?".  No dice, but their machinist said NKG probably made a plug that would work....and told me a couple of shops to try for finding them.

First shop he recomended didn't have them.

Next shop I tried was a marine supply place since I had found 14mm surface fire plugs from an outboard...no go they only had 14mm plugs no 18mm.

Last stop was the Import parts shop in town.  They pulled out the NKG book and tried like heck to decipher it but had no luck finding a part number for me :(  Their usual guru was out today and the guy who helped me just wasn't very good with the new NKG book.  But he said the store right next door which deals in domestic car parts just started carrying NKG and might have what I need.

So next door I went.  Took them two tries but eventually they found the AP8FS which is an 18mm plug with a non-projected electrode,  The result is that the bottom of the ground electrode is about where the end of the positive electrode was on my stock plugs.  Which gives me almost .060" more clerance!  Perfect!

Brought them home, put them in....and the motor turns without hittind the plugs!   Almost $2.50 a plug but that's a lot cheaper than tearing the motor apart again!  

Now I just have to put the wheels back on the rail, reinstall the electronic points conversion I stole to have as a spare for my other vehicle a few weeks ago....and fire this thing up on Saturday!

I'm SUPER hyped!  I've been waiting to fire this motor up since April and now it's finally going to happen!  

And I got my custom flanges made to go with the fuel injection computer I built for it....along with all the injectors, sensors and throttle body ;D  Can't wait to dig in on that upgrade!  

For those who are curious photos of the Injection project are here

And photos of the motor and project vehicle are here


pro4art

Just to drive you all nuts!! Mill the head so much you almost get into the ehaust stud holes. Cut off the plug ground electrode, get a MSD Ignition box, and fire the plugs to the piston tops.  
pro4art

jhitesma

Need a little more clearance that that will give bday.  The one I was testing with was already fitting with the electrode in the position with the most clearance.  It would go in with a .030 gap and come out with a .0015 gap.  (And not leave a scar on the top of the piston.)

I'm looking for indexing washers (or 18mm -> 14mm adapters) not so much as for the actual indexing but for the little extra clerance they can give me.


bday

n my earlier response about indexing your plugs; "you do not need washers". Just move the plug from hole to hole to find where the electrode will be with the mark you put on the side of the plug. You might need to buy 1 or 2 plugs to do this.  

jhitesma

It's alive!  

Yesterday I finally got the last of the wiring in place and got to give it a go.  One scary moment when the timing belt jumped on the second starting attmept (I had forgotten to tighten the belt tensioner  ::) ) but then after a few slight tweaks to the timing it fired right up!

Sounds great too!  My motor NEVER sounded this good before even after the last rebuild.  The new high compression pistons and bigger valves seem to have made a HUGE difference.  Can't wait to let the old butt dyno have some time in the seat to tell me just how much of a difference :)

I was a little worried that with the new higher compression and anti-foulers that I may have some detonation....but it sounded clean even on 91 octane pump gas.  Still hoping to track down some 18mm tapered seat indexing washers or 18mm to 14mm plug adapters so I can ditch the anti-foulers....but at least it's running again!


jhitesma

Update time.

Turns out nothing was locking the motor up - I was just scared to put too much torque on it to turn it over  ::)  I went and put a drill on the oil pump - got a nice 30psi right away and had oil out the spray bar on the cam.   Then broke out the torque wrench so I'd know just how much torque I was putting on things to make it turn.

At about 60 ftlbs the motor started turning :)  I just wasn't expecting it to take so much effort since the old valve springs were a LOT weaker.

Reinstalled the anti-foulers and there's no interfeerance.

I also followed instructions from a machinist friend and determined that I only need about .050" more clearance on my plugs.  So with some indexing washers I should be able to get by....I just can't find anywhere that has 18mm tapered seat indexing washers :(  I've found 14mm gasketed and tapered...and 18mm gasketed...but no one seems to have the 18mm tapered washers.

Still the anti-foulers will do for the initial startup tonight or tomorrow.

Thanks for the input and if anyone knows where to find some 18mm tapered seat indexing washers please let me know!


jhitesma

Heck, the $60 18-14mm adapters are less than it would cost me to have a machine shop put reliefs into the pistons.  And that's not something I'd be willing or able to tackle myself.  

However things may not be quite as bad as I thought....I pulled the plugs and anti-foulers back out and still can't turn the motor.  So something else is locking it up.  Which is odd because two weeks ago (the last time I touched it) it turned over fine and nothing's been touched since then.

All I can think is the tranny may have been knocked into gear...but the rail dosn't want to move as I try to turn the motor so that dosn't seem right.

I took the valve cover off and the valves on the pistons that are at TDC right now aren't open so there's no interference there (But I already spent a full weekend putting the timing belt on after learning that the new pistons will only clear the valves when everything is right - unlike the stock pistons that would always clear.)   Long story but the machine shop had put the timing belt on - but they also lost the intermediate shaft cover.  So I had to pull the timing belt back off to install the new cover I found....and then in a fit of brilliance moved the crank with the belt off.  When I put it back on I ended up putting it on with the crank at TDC for #4 instead of #1 and then I couldn't turn it more than one revolution without the valves interfering with the pistons.  Had to carefully turn the crank a little, then turn the cam a little, then turn the crank a little to get everything back to where it should be.  And it did seem to be lined up correctly now since everything was moving two weeks ago.

This motor is really getting on my nerves :(  Thing has been nothing but trouble since the day I bought it.  And even after it was rebuilt it still never ran right.  But that was a special deal where I got it rebuilt for free by a friend of a friend who owns a machine shop.  But he never even looked at the head even though I warned him I thought the valve guides where shot.  This time I broke down and spent almost $1500 having it rebuilt by a very respected shop and they confirmed that the head was in VERY bad shape.  They put in new guides and new valves (stepped up to larger valves at the same time)  but they managed to loose that intermediate shaft cover  ::)

I know the head was shaved once by a previous owner back in '96 since I have the receipt from it.  But they only took off .016" which the last two places who did rebuilds said shouldn't be a noticable difference.  And neither of them shaved it anymore.  But I still had piston to spark plug clearance issues last time :(

I've sunk way too much into this @&*&! motor at this time and have just about had it with the @&!&!* thing.   Just when it looks like all the problems will be solved it just gets worse every time  >:(

turbopinto72

 I hate to say it but it looks like you will be pulling the head off and notching a plug relief in the pistons.
Brad F
1972, 2.5 Turbo Pinto
1972, Pangra
1973, Pangra
1971, 289 Pinto

jhitesma

Tried that last year.  But since they're tapered seat plugs they won't stay tight with indexing washers added.  They work loose after less than 10 minutes.  

I just tried installing the anti-foulers to move the plugs back for a test fire and found out that even those are apparently extending into the head too far since I can no longer turn the motor over by hand once they're installed :(


bday

This is common when the deck of the block has been milled, and or the head even when using flat top pistons. Try indexing your plugs. Put a mark on the electrod side & install it. You will find that not all plugs will stop in the same place. You want the electrod to point up or to the sides.

Good luck   :)

jhitesma

Need some help or advice.  I just had my 2.0 for my sandrail rebuilt and the only pistons I could find (and afford) were a set of NOS TRW dome tops that had been sitting on the shelf at some shop for years and years after someone dropped them off  to have the rods pressed on but never paid for them.

The motor is now back together and almost ready for me to fire it up....but I've run into a problem.  My spark plugs are hitting the pistons.  

Last year before the motor blew up I had to switch from Autolite to Champion plugs because the Champion were just a hair shorter and for some reason the plugs had suddenly started hitting the pistons mid-season.  No changes to the motor but suddenly at the end of a day I'd pull a plug and the electrodes would be touching and there'd be a small scar on the piston top....that was with stock pistons.

But the motor had other serious issues (bad valve guides and incorrect rocker geometry) which lead to lots of oil in the combustion chambers and eventually blew a hole through the #1 piston.

I'm thinking about fnding some 18mm to 14mm plug adapters but the only ones I've found are sold by Aircraft Spruce for planes and they want $60 which is more than I can spend right now (Just broke the bank paying a well respected shop to build this motor!)

Anyone have any suggestions?