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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Need guidance with headliner

Started by popbumper, September 26, 2011, 08:47:07 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

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JohnW

Quote from: 77pintocw on October 19, 2011, 07:36:35 PM
Hey JohnW:

I think if you were very careful with removing the plastic parts and
the old staples on the sides and the spiked rack on the back you could
remove the old headliner to about the midpoint exposing the roof and you
could then install your luggage rack and then reattach the old headliner.

The only concern I can see is if the old headliner is stiff and not pliable
that when you try and staple it again and pull it back on to the spiked
rack in the back that it might not pull tight and could bag in certain places.

Thanks,

77pintocw
My headliner has a few tears, so I want to replace it down the road, but I have more important things to buy for the car first.  I need to get access to the front of the roof a few inches back from the windshield.  That wouldn't be doable?  This is in a Runabout, by the way. 
-

77pintocw

Hey JohnW:

I think if you were very careful with removing the plastic parts and
the old staples on the sides and the spiked rack on the back you could
remove the old headliner to about the midpoint exposing the roof and you
could then install your luggage rack and then reattach the old headliner.

The only concern I can see is if the old headliner is stiff and not pliable
that when you try and staple it again and pull it back on to the spiked
rack in the back that it might not pull tight and could bag in certain places.

Thanks,

77pintocw
1977, Pinto Cruising Wagon, White with Blue Graphics

77pintocw

Hey popbumper:

You are welcome.  I agree with dga57, be sure to show us
your finish product.

Have fun with your project. 

77pintocw
1977, Pinto Cruising Wagon, White with Blue Graphics

JohnW

So the Pinto is one of the Fords where you have to remove the windshield to replace the headliner?  I wanted to pull mine out of the way while I mount a roofrack...could I get the sides and back down enough to do this?
-

dga57

Chris,
Be sure and let us know how YOUR headliner project turns out!
Dwayne :)
Pinto Car Club of America - Serving the Ford Pinto enthusiast since 1999.

popbumper

77pintoCW:
  This is OUTSTANDING information and it is greatly appreciated. That's what this group should be all about, solid exchange of information. Kudos to you, I am happy to use this and move forward. Thank you for taking the time to post!!
Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

77pintocw

Last set:
1977, Pinto Cruising Wagon, White with Blue Graphics

77pintocw

More photos:
1977, Pinto Cruising Wagon, White with Blue Graphics

77pintocw

Hey popbumper:

Below are my tips and photos.  Good luck!

77pintocw

Please note that I am not an expert or a professional headliner installer and I provide the following tips that I discovered in my experience when I installed my headliner.  I hope these tips might help you, based upon my own work. Also, this was my first time installing a headliner and found it to be both interesting and rewarding.

1) Before you start doing anything read all of the following tips.
2) Also, if you are not sure about something, stop and don't do anything. Make sure you are confident of the step before you proceed. You don't want to ruin your new headliner.
3) Before removing the old headliner take a lot of pictures of it and how it fits at all the edges, particularly around the windshield, at the back under the plastic cover and along the edges.
4) When you start removing the old headliner be sure to mark the holes on each side where the stays are located since there are multiple holes.
5) Be sure to note where the clothes hooks are located on each side.
6) Be sure to write down the color of each stay and where they are located when you remove them from the old headliner. They are all of different lengths and different colors.
7) Once you have removed the old headliner clean all areas. Make sure you get the old glue and stuff around the edges of the windshield. This should be hospital clean so that the new glue will stick properly.
8) I would recommend using an air stapler for the new staples. I have attached a picture of the one I used and it worked perfectly. The air stapler will allow you to hold and pull the new headliner tight while stapling it firmly against the side edges. Also, I have a picture of the staples I used and they were the same length as the old ones.  The staples I used were Spotnails 3/8" Crown, 5/32" Length.
9) Now to start, lay the new headliner face down on a clean surface with the white backing up. Place the stays in the correct positions as noted from the old headliner.
10) Note how the old stays are position in the old headliner and how they fit in the new headliner. The new headliner might be a little wide and you might have to cut some of it at the ends of the stays. Wait until you hang it back in the car before you make any cuts. You don't want to cut it too short.
11) With the stays in the new headliner, hang it in the car starting in the middle and work towards the ends.
12) At this point I would play with the new headliner and get a feel about how it will behave when you pull on it both in the middle and on the edges. This will help you understand how it behaves and moves before you start stapling it along the edges.
13) Once you are confident then start in the middle and work towards an end. It doesn't matter which end. I started in the middle and worked toward the windshield first.
14) In the middle section, pull the headliner along the stays toward the edges to make sure it is tight. You might have to cut some of the headliner at each end to make it fit properly. Make sure the new headliner is equal distance on each side and in the middle of the roof before you cut any material. Do not cut the material above the edge where the plastic cover will be or it will show as a hole when you are done. Take your time at this step.
15) Now that the new headliner fits properly on the middle stay move to the next stay on either side and do the same thing and continue on to each stay to make sure the material fits properly before you start stapling.
16) Once all the material around each stay fits properly (i.e. not too long or too short) you can start stapling.
17) Go back to the middle stay and position it vertically and next to the roof.
18) Pull the material at one of the edges so it is tight and the way you want it and then staple it alone the edge. Then go the other side and do the same thing.
19) Move to the nest stay, position it vertically, pull the headliner so it is tight in between the stays from the previous stay and do the stay thing as in #18 and continue toward the front or back of the car.
20) You will get the hang of it as you move toward each end. You can also remove or put more staples on the edges to make it tight. Take your time and make it nice and tight.
21) Once you have reached the front of the car pull the headliner around the opening and see how it is going to fit. You will have to cut it to fit but make sure you don't cut it too short. Take your time and be careful at this point. You can leave it a little long and once it has been glued you can then cut it a little shorter if necessary.
22) Once it has been cut properly spray the edge of the windshield opening and the underside of the headliner with the glue. Attached is a picture of the glue I used and it is superior glue. I got it at JC Whitney and it is better than the 3M glue.
23) Let the glue dry and get tacky on both surfaces. Then pull the headliner tight and press down and fit it around the edges. Check and see if it is tight and looks right.
24) Got back to the middle stay and work back toward the tailgate.
25) Once you get to the tailgate, notice the spikes alone the upper metal plate. Pull the headliner tight and then press it alone the spikes and they will catch the headliner. Be sure to do this only once since the spikes will punch holes in the headliner.
26) At this point replace all the plastic covers.
1977, Pinto Cruising Wagon, White with Blue Graphics

D.R.Ball


popbumper

77pintocw:

  I would greatly appreciate any tips/guidelines/photos/etc. I received my headliner from SMS this past Tuesday, and am getting very close to the point of installation (over the next two weeks). Thank you very much for any info you can share.
Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

77pintocw

Hey popbumper:

I just did my '77 CW headliner and yes I can give you some tips.
I will take some photos of it this weekend and post them.  I bought
my headliner from SMS Auto Fabrics and it was high quality and
it was just as good or better than the OEM material.  Also, there
was a good amount of extra material all around so you didn't have
to worry about it not fitting.  Plus, they gave you extra material to
do the two sun visors.  I also did them and will take some photos.
I did the whole thing by myself and didn't have any problems.  I
will describe the whole thing this weekend but don't have the
time right now.  I am quite happy with the way it looks and it does look
professional.  The one thing I can say about the process is that you
have to be patient, take your time, and make sure you use the best
materials.

Talk you later,

77pintocw
1977, Pinto Cruising Wagon, White with Blue Graphics

Starsky and Hutch

1977 Pinto Accent stripe group Runabout                                                                    interior(Code PN) Color (Code R2)

dave1987

Not to sure with the suppliers part....

But when you installed it and have it all hung up, and in place (secured as well), with as many bubbles/folds smoothed out as you can without excess tension, you can take a heat gun or blow drier on the low setting and sweep past the oddly wrinkled spots. The vinyl will shrink a bit with heat applied directly to it and will pull the head liner tight making it look better than new.

That's a tip I got from my local upholster and it worked great on brownie.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

popbumper

Planning on replacing the headliner in my '76 wagon, it has a tear in it, and of course must be completed prior to windshield reinstallation.
Given that, hoping that anyone who has had experience with headliners will lend some advice. I DO have sample material from SMS auto fabrics in Oregon, so I know what I need, but looking for inputs on:
1) SUPPLIERS - if YOU have ordered a headliner before, from who have you ordered and how was the quality? Price?
2) INSTALLATION - if YOU have personally installed a headliner, I would like to hear your personal experience, pros/cons so I can get an idea what I am up against.
The idea here of course is to get the best quality unit at the lowest price, and install MYSELF if at all possible to save money.
Thank you!
Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08