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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Old Faithful’s (late) 150k mile maintenance - valve seals 'n' more!

Started by 78txpony, May 04, 2010, 10:06:06 AM

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dave1987

Wow, great pictures guide on your tune up. I love reading stuff like this. Makes me want to get my hands dirty and get the wagon's valve train adjusted! :)

Keep up the good work!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

78txpony

Day 7 – Valve guide seal replacement - the real fun begins!

It seems like every 15 years or so, the valve guide seals on the 2.3 need replacement... The engine starts burning more oil, most evident after sitting and after prolonged idling.  I usually let it go a few years after until the smoke clouds are visible behind me upon takeoff...  Right now oil consumption is a quart per 600 miles – pretty bad.  :nocool:

I did this operation back in 1991 (74k miles) and barely remember what I went through.  I thought the car would be gone by the time it needed to be done again – WRONG!  This time, with the advantages of digital cameras and documentation, I will be able to remember it longer.  Will I have to do it again??  We will see......

Last time I pulled the head, but this time I will do it with the head installed.  I know it can be done and it will help me save my back from wrestling a 75 pound block of iron off from the block... THAT part I do clearly remember!  :o

Chris (popbumper) stopped by to lend a hand and to also see this operation in person. He will need to do his seals if the original motor is to go back in!   ;)
Of course it is easier to do with the motor out of the car...

So here goes!
First, crank TDC was verified once more and the crank pulley was pulled. Timing belt idler was loosened, pulled back with a big screwdriver, retightened, and the timing belt was removed. The lobes had worn 0.06" – not too bad.  I bet it stretched a bit though.  Most of the nasty grime in the timing belt enclosure was scraped off.

The four big oil return holes in the head were plugged with non-shedding paper towels to prevent small parts from falling into them (which would create a VERY bad day...)  :reek:
Next the rocker arms removed one by one using the method I had tried above, making sure I knew each of their positions for reinstallation.  Some of them popped out, ending up under the car...  :rolleye:


Compressed air was directed around the spark plugs to remove any residual debris and then they were all loosened and # 1 was removed.  The air fitting was screwed into the #1 spark plug hole finger tight and was connected to the air compressor (set at 40PSI).  The air in the cylinder will hold the valves in place if all goes right...

Here comes the fun part! 
I attempted to compress the valve spring with this improvised tool, just enough to get the keepers off. 


Let me tell you this was the biggest failure done on this project!!  :mad:
Even with Chris helping me, the force required to compress the spring controllably was beyond one's imagination.  We wasted almost an hour fighting this and got only one keeper off.  My hands hurt badly and my thumb is still numb as of this writing.   :nocool:
We made a trip to Otterzone and found a screw-type overhead spring puller for 20 bucks. Yay!!  :amazed:
I was unaware to that type of compressor - I only knew about the C looking thing for doing it while the head was off.

We got it home and tried to get it in there, but the #%@&! cam was in the way!  >:(
It had to come out anyway to replace the seal, so cam pulley was removed. I found myself in a bind trying to get the two big screws in the back of the head loosened!  I needed a #3 phillips on a short ratchet attachment.  I tried a #2 offset screwdriver, but they were too tight and I felt it starting to damage the screw – I stopped. 
Chris was kind enough to take me to Otterzone again and then to Lowes in the search of a tool – nothing - #@$%!!   :mad:  >:(
On the quest, I realized a #3 small bit in a ¼" box wrench would work.  We get back to my house empty handed and I searched for the above two tools I knew I had.  That too another half #@$%&! hour!   :hangover:
Finally find them and got the two screws out along with the retainer plate. 


Gently ease the cam out and it will not pass the radiator top rail!  More #@^*&!!  :mad: :mad:  :nocool:
Put crank pulley back on, jack up engine under pulley, barely missing sway bar.  Removed two long motor mount bolts and jacked up engine about ¾ inch. 


The bumpstick was now carefully extracted from the head, noting its original position.  It was set aside in the garage, away from floating contaminants.


I lowered engine enough to get the two bolts back in loosely. 
NOW the springs started coming off the way they should with the compressor!   :hypno:
I started with #1 EX.  Compress spring...


Remove the two keepers with the magnetic pickup tool...


Remove the compressed spring and retainer together...

I pried off the hardened old valve seal and checked for valve slop.  There is some visible slop but not too bad...
The seals were hardened but not too broken like they were the last time. Valve stems were coated with a layer of engine oil:


The new seals were installed as per their included instructions:
Install included plastic installation sleeve on valve, slather it and the new seal with oil, press seal over sleeve and tap it home with a socket and hammer. 


Remove sleeve and save for next valve. Oil valve and seal last.
Compressed spring and retainer was reinstalled along with their keepers.  Spring was released carefully and valve was tapped with a brass hammer to make sure parts were seated.

Next I did #1 INT, which used a special blue seal with the same procedure.


Air hose was detached and fitting removed. A new gapped spark plug was installed loosely.
This process was repeated for the next 3 cylinders. 

The cam seal was popped out of the front of the head with a big screwdriver and hammer.


A new cam seal was tapped in with a block of wood and a hammer and lightly greased inside. 
The engine mount bolts were pulled and engine was jacked up ¾" until I could see all the cam bearings in a row:  :P


The cam bearings were lubed with 80-90 gear oil and cam was carefully installed. 
Engine was lowered, mount bolts inserted and tightened to spec. Finally the back cam retainer and screws were installed. 
In the process I dropped the little screwdriver bit, it BOUNCED OFF the oil drain plug I installed (phew!) and landed at the back of the transmission!   :hypno:  No cussing required this time, as I just grabbed the magnetic tool and snagged it.  8)

The pretty Esslinger adjustable bumpstick pulley was installed next.  ;D

Its bolt was coated with Permatex thread sealant, the cam held with a monkey wrench, and the center bolt torqued to spec. 


I left off the old pulley backplate as instructed in its instructions.

I verified crank was still at TDC, cam was in right, with the front two lobes directly UP, and disty pointed to #1 wire.
The timing belt was installed and the idler released.  I turned the engine over a few times using the crank bolt to take up any slack, returned it to TDC, and tightened the idler to spec. 
I cleaned the top of the head and removed the paper oil hole plugs.  The cam was drenched in clean 80-90 gear oil. 

Degreeing the cam...
Here I followed PintoRacer's "Cam timing 101" article very carefully.  I will not get into detail, as he already did...
I verified the TDC position of the cam with the front two lobes directly UP and level.


With an aluminum plate on top, I measuring from each side of the plate to the left and right side of the head, making sure both distances are even.

I made a scribe mark for 0* on the pulley.  With the pulley's five adjustment bolts loose, I gently rotated the cam 3* advanced as shown on the cam pulley according to the pulley's instructions, and tightened the bolts securely in sequence.

Day 8 – Rest under the influence of prescription painkillers   :hangover:
I sure needed it – I was hurting everywhere!  ???  Finally around noon, still a little 'high' and still in a bathrobe, I prepped the thermostat housing.  I flattened the flange by bending gently with a vice and sanded it on a granite flat-block.  I washed and dried it and cleaned the flange with alcohol.


The thermostat went into the cleaned groove and the self-adhesive side of the gasket went on the housing to keep it all together for installation on the block. 
Later on that day, after replacing a window motor in my Oldsmobile convertible, I finally got around to some Pinto work about 7pm.  I installed the thermostat and housing and gasket using some permatex sealer and tightened to spec. 
I also rewrapped the engine wiring with non-stick black tape and installed protective wire loom. 
Now late and starting to rain, I called it a day.   :sleep:

-Rob Young
1978 Pinto Pony sedan (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp"
http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelonerider2005/sets
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine"
1997 H-D Sportster

78txpony

Looking forward to the help, Chris - you will enjoy the insight of the inside of the 2.3!

Day 4 - Odd job day...
New small coolant hoses (all 5/8") were cut to length (3.5" and 2.5") and installed on the cleaned-up coolant pipes.
The aluminum air cleaner was quickly polished up.
The hood prop rod was repaired with the SSC parts and PCV valve, disty cap, and rotor were replaced.
The crank pulley was loosened by putting the car in 4th gear with the parking brake set.  This worked to my advantage since the car was parked on a slight incline and the weight was on the brakes already.  Turning the bolt CCW caused the car to want to reverse, so there was hardly any crank movement.  After a few good heaves on the ratchet, the bolt was free.  I thwacked the pulley with a small hammer gently on both sides to break any rust bonds.  Contrary to desires to pry or yank the pulley off, only very slight, gentle shakes made it come forward.  I pushed it back on for now and rotated the crank to TDC and verified with cam and by looking in spark plug hole.
Lastly I experimented with cam degreeing and planned my attack on the head disassembly. 
I held diagonal cutters in the lash adjuster groove and used a wrench to pry up on the lifter against the diagonal cutters.  Worked great – popped right off.  I reinstalled it by sliding it in from the valve side and when it stopped, I gently tapped it in place with a small hammer.  Perfect!  Now how to compress those valve springs....


Day 5 - Odd job day #2...
After work, the radiator was taken to a local radiator shop for evaluation and repair.  Here is the slow weep area:

The guy there glanced at it and said it was beyond repair – wow – it does not look THAT bad!  :mad:  I was quoted $500+ for a new one or $400 to recore mine – screw them!   :showback:
I ordered a new one from Rockauto for 160 – either that one will work or the weepy one goes back in along with some stop-leak stuff.   :o
New spark plugs were gapped to specs and reboxed.
New EGR valve came in and low and behold – a genuine Ford part that almost looked NOS!  :hypno:  :hypno: It even had "made in USA" on the label under the Ford part number!    :amazed:

Of course, it did not fit without issues – note the hose nipple was on the opposite side...  :nocool:  I had to take the diaphragm off and turn it so the nipple is on the correct side.  Not too hard.  Afterwards it was installed with its included LEAD gasket. The cleaned out pipe to exhaust manifold was reconnected without issue.
 
Day 6 - Odd job day #3...
Oil fill cap gasket was cut from an orangey gasket material from the hardware store. Valve cover was hammered flat around the bolt holes using aluminum stock. Lastly I planned for tomorrow's "battle of the head"...   :read:
-Rob Young
1978 Pinto Pony sedan (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp"
http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelonerider2005/sets
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine"
1997 H-D Sportster

popbumper

Rob - looking GREAT! Should be fun this weekend coming for a visit. I plan to have a full Saturday Pinto day, working on yours AND mine.

Chris
Restoring a 1976 MPG wagon - purchased 6/08

78txpony

.
Day 4 - more disassembly and cleaning!    :rolleye:

The EGR valve was in horrible shape and was spewing oily exhaust into the engine bay.  >:(


The passages and pipe were all clogged and were cleaned out.  A new EGR valve was bought on clearance from Rockauto and is en route. 

The timing belt cover and valve cover were pulled and washed...


Here is the timing belt:


Here is the top end before scraping, the second time it has ever been exposed to sunlight:  :amazed:


Note the petrified gasket pieces laying about that were later removed by hand...  Yes, an oil change was due and will be done at the end of this procedure.  :look:

Here is cyl 2 & 1


And Cyl 4 & 3


The gasket was scraped from the cyl head and the dried cover was placed upon it again to keep it clean. 
Now Sunday night – I call it quits.  :sleep:
-Rob Young
1978 Pinto Pony sedan (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp"
http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelonerider2005/sets
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine"
1997 H-D Sportster

78txpony

.
Day 3 - Power flush!  ::)

The next day I flushed the cooling system.
The old coolant hoses and radiator were removed. 
Note the 1992 date and "made in USA" markings on these old hoses!  :surprised:


Using the garden hose, I forced water through the heater, radiator, intake and block in different combinations while blocking various ports.  Looked pretty clean for the most part.  I never really had any cooling issues, even with no shroud in 100+ degree TX summer traffic. 
Inside the engine was pretty rust free, due to ALWAYS having a 50/50 mix of coolant. :amazed:


More cleaning - does it ever stop??  :mad:

Now that more parts were stripped off, round three of degreasing and cleaning took place, mainly around the bay itself. 
While the Gulf of Mexico was being slicked over with crude oil sludge, I noticed I had done the same to my yard where the driveway drains into.  I now need to shovel away the black contaminated stuff and get rid of it...  :reek:

After my water-filled day, I blew away standing water from the engine with the leaf blower and called it quits. 
Engine bay looks pretty good so far!  ;D


-Rob Young
1978 Pinto Pony sedan (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp"
http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelonerider2005/sets
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine"
1997 H-D Sportster

78txpony

.
Day 2 - Higher effort degreasing...

On the last day of April, while the engine was warm, I did round two of degreasing and cleaning of the engine, under the hood, and around the engine bay.   I used Gunk, diluted Tide, brushes, scrapers, and high pressure water. Extra gunk and water pressure was directed around the spark plugs to keep crap from falling in the cylinders when I pull the plugs later.
Here is after round 2:

Looks nice when wet!  :amazed:





Here's when dry...


I also cleaned under the hood...
Before:  :rolleye:


After:  :surprised:


The majority of the grunge stemmed from the constantly leaking valve cover gasket.  However the leaks were never bad enough for it to drip all over the driveway.  After the 10lbs or soof oily grunge was gone, I drained the cleaner and water from the cooling system. 

Drain and flush, round two...

I was shocked to see that the stuff was BLACK!   :nocool:
I refilled it, ran it, burped it, drained it about 5 times until the water came out nice and clear.   :smile:
Here is the sequence of coolant drains from left to right – Straight coolant, flush 1, flush 2, straight cleaner results, cleaner rinse 1.


I only bottled the first rinse, as the cleaner is not really even that harmful.  Active ingredient is sodium citrate, which is actually a food additive!   :hypno:
The system was filled with tap water, ran until hot and left overnight to soak.

Next, the I pulled the air cleaner and covered the carb throat with a special can I save, just for this purpose, and plugged the open vacuum lines.  The air cleaner itself was degreased afterwards and hung to dry.
Time to call it the day...  :sleep:
-Rob Young
1978 Pinto Pony sedan (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp"
http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelonerider2005/sets
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine"
1997 H-D Sportster

78txpony

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As many of you know, my old '78 has been in our family since new and has been kept up pretty well. 
However, it has been a bit neglected over the past 10 years or so, despite its use as a seasonal daily driver. 

My mission is to thoroughly clean and flush the cooling system, fix some pinholes in the radiator, replace all the coolant hoses (less the impossible heater hoses  :nocool:), t-stat, leaky valve guide seals (must be gone every 12 years I guess  :rolleye:), valve cover gasket, other minor gaskets, leaky EGR valve, spark plugs, wires, disty cap & rotor, PCV valve, & timing belt.


Most of the spare parts were obtained from Rockauto.  All parts were of the best available brands – no skimping there.  Total from there was about 200 bucks.   I learned not to use cheap timing belts when one failed on me on 2-29-2000.  It stretched, jumped a tooth and the engine died on the spot – first time in its life that it had left me stranded.

Since this car is a surviving daily driver with significant collision damage, I am keeping it bone stock, with the exception of the adjustable cam pulley to bring the power band into the lower RPMs.  :amazed:

I put this operation off last year, but recently the car has ran worse and worse, up to the point I felt challenged when racing a school bus off the line...   :rolleye:
So this year, it is happening, so let's git 'er done!

Day 1 - Low effort degreasing...
A week before the anticipated teardown date, I decided to start cleaning my nasty engine...
Engine temp gauge still said 140* a few hours after I came home from work, so it was a perfect temp for cleaning.
Here is BEFORE:



I bought two cans of Gunk for this project.
Before gunking, I hosed down the cement under the car and kept it wet with water throughout the process to prevent stains.
I started at the left rear of the engine / tranny and circled around to the right rear, spraying Gunk only, in a stream to help blast away the oily grime.
I used a toothbrush only on the valve cover and one thick area right at the thermostat housing. Did not even get my hand dirty...

I let it soak a few minutes, then repeated the same application from LR to RR.
I repeated soak and spray again steps again until the first can was empty.

I got out the water hose and used the jet stream position on the nozzle to wash the crap off. I kept spraying under the car also to wash the nasty stuff away. (Ironically, I did this on "Earth Day"...  )   ::)

Even though the "environmental friendly" degreasers will work, nothing seems to beat Gunk. I always believe that when cleaning something off, it is best to dissolve it with it's base ingredient. In this case, it is petroleum! Applying to a warm (not hot) engine really helps, too!

Below the AFTER pics of round one.




Coolant drain and flush – let the games begin!   :amazed:

I drained the coolant and saved it for recycling.  It has been in the car for nine years – oh how time flies!  Several years ago I did add a bottle of corrosion inhibitor to it as I knew this big job was coming...
Draining is easy on this car.  I did pull the heater hose at the water pump to allow air in for easier draining. 
Old stuff did not look too bad.  Yellowish green, no big rust issue thank goodness. I refilled with water, ran it & drained it a couple times to remove as much coolant as possible, as the block drain plug was hard to get to and I knew this engine was not too nasty inside. When all was clear, I put 2 bottles of Prestone super flush in the radiator and filled it with water. 
I used a screwdriver lodged in the heater hose connection to 'burp' the air out as it ran.


I drove the car about 25 miles over the next week for a good cleaning.     :fastcar:


-Rob Young
1978 Pinto Pony sedan (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp"
http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelonerider2005/sets
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine"
1997 H-D Sportster