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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Which adjustable cam sprocket?

Started by slowride, April 27, 2009, 10:32:36 PM

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phils toys

2006, 07,08 ,10 Carlisle 3rd stock pinto 4 years same place
2007 PCCA East Regional Best Wagon
2008 CAHS Prom Coolest Ride
2011,2014 pinto stampede

phils toys

Quote from: slowride on May 12, 2009, 08:55:56 PM
A pic and a question. Does ANYONE have the brackets that hold the heater pipes to the valve cover?
Looking at it, the exhaust manifold needs to come off, be blasted and shot with gray ceramic. Oh, and the intake needs to be stripped and detailed. Oh, and....
i might have one but i made one of my owne befor i found andn original give me a couple days to see if i can find it.
phil
2006, 07,08 ,10 Carlisle 3rd stock pinto 4 years same place
2007 PCCA East Regional Best Wagon
2008 CAHS Prom Coolest Ride
2011,2014 pinto stampede

71pintoracer

Yep, sounds like you are headed the right way. I would say 6 degrees max on cam timing, 2-4 usually works best but you can play with it and see what "feels" best. Don't forget to put a dab of silicone on your cam bolt!
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

78txpony

So from what I gather from this thread and the cam timing 101 session is:

1 - In stock form, the 2.3 cam might not be at TDC position even when the engine is (marker error).
2 - Advancing a stock 2.3 engine's cam 2 degrees adds low RPM power (at the expense of high RPM power).  My car is a daily driver that sees 3500+ RPM very seldom.  
3 - The various pullies that have the adjustment screws will all do the same job.
4 - Three degrees tops advancement.

I am trying to set myself straight on this as it is all new to me...  :read:
I am preparing to replace valve seals in mine without removing the head.  Since cam and timing belt will be removed, adding that pulley might be an easy way for more get up and go off the line.  
And yes, I plan to make a nice "project" post of it all...  :angel:

I have thought about an "RV" cam but I prefer to save that for "next time" when the head would be pulled, machined, etc....

Am I on the right track?  :look:
-Rob Young
1978 Pinto Pony sedan (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp"
http://www.flickr.com/photos/thelonerider2005/sets
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine"
1997 H-D Sportster

slowride

Well, I've been driving the wagon daily since I posted this and it has been great. It doesn't get very good gas mileage (18mpg), and runs a tad fat at idle. I've been told this is the nature of the 5200, so I'm making a change.
I've read a few posts about replacing the 5200 with a 350 2 bbl and it seems pretty straightforward except for a couple details. I'll have to make another kickdown rod (done it before, no big deal), and modify/fab the throttle cable. I'm hoping to get a little better mileage and some performance out of it.

slowride

A pic and a question. Does ANYONE have the brackets that hold the heater pipes to the valve cover?
Looking at it, the exhaust manifold needs to come off, be blasted and shot with gray ceramic. Oh, and the intake needs to be stripped and detailed. Oh, and....

slowride

Quote from: pintoguy76 on May 11, 2009, 08:47:36 PM
What regulator are you talking about? did you install an aftermarket regulator with the electric pump?
Yes, fuel pressure regulator. I wound up removing it as the output isn't enough to blow past the needle and seat. If I were to replace it with a pump with with more pressure and volume, I'd reinstall the regulator.

slowride

Quote from: 71pintoracer on May 11, 2009, 05:13:41 PM
Slowride, you need to move the pump to the rear of the car as close to the tank as possible. They are made to push fuel, not pull it.
As long as it's primed (below fuel level) it's not an issue. That's why I mounted it on the frame rail. This pump doesn't have the volume or pressure to deal with the loss through 10 feet of tubing. I'll be replumbing it soon, but it's OK for now.

pintoguy76

Quote from: slowride on May 11, 2009, 12:20:48 AM
Today was good..... I'm finally happy with the Pinto. I made a "L" bracket and mounted the pump down on the frame rail. I bent new 3/8" aluminum tube as well as adding a regulator. First trip out with 3.5 lbs pressure, it died... fuel starvation. I took it up to 5 lbs, same thing. The thing was, it was still running fat, so I decided to put the NOS carb on. I set it up and took it out.... died again. I figured it had to be the regulator, so I took it off and ran new line to the carb. The next test drive was great.... a completely different car. Idles better, more power throughout the powerband, and running leaner. I put another degree advance in the cam and it drives like a car should! This is pretty much it for the mechanical, now I just need to put some new carpet in and drive.  ;D 

What regulator are you talking about? did you install an aftermarket regulator with the electric pump?
1974 Ford Pinto Wagon with 1991 Mustang DIS EFI 2.3 and stock Pinto 4 Speed

1996 Chevy C2500 Suburban with 6.5L Turbo Diesel/4L80E 4x2

1980 Volvo 265 with 1997 S-10 4.3 and a modified 700R4

2010 GMC Sierra SLE 1500 4x2 5.3 6L80E

71pintoracer

Slowride, you need to move the pump to the rear of the car as close to the tank as possible. They are made to push fuel, not pull it.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

slowride

Today was good..... I'm finally happy with the Pinto. I made a "L" bracket and mounted the pump down on the frame rail. I bent new 3/8" aluminum tube as well as adding a regulator. First trip out with 3.5 lbs pressure, it died... fuel starvation. I took it up to 5 lbs, same thing. The thing was, it was still running fat, so I decided to put the NOS carb on. I set it up and took it out.... died again. I figured it had to be the regulator, so I took it off and ran new line to the carb. The next test drive was great.... a completely different car. Idles better, more power throughout the powerband, and running leaner. I put another degree advance in the cam and it drives like a car should! This is pretty much it for the mechanical, now I just need to put some new carpet in and drive.  ;D 

slowride

Quote from: 71pintoracer on May 08, 2009, 05:37:25 PM
That WAS my daily driver!!  ;D It still had the stock cam and automatic, it ran good with those simple mods.
If you can find a rubber molded type gasket, they are expensive but worth the money. When I use cork, I glue it to the V/C and put nothing on the head side. I use that yellow monkey-snot looking glue called super weatherstrip adhesive. Put a bead of it on the V/C and put the bolts through the wrong way to hold the gasket down and let it dry.
What's really strange is the only remaining leak is around the head of the left front vc bolt. It's not leaking around the rail at all, just the bolt head. There was another, but I tried a trick of putting a small o-ring under the washer on the threads and it took care of the others, just not this one bolt.
Do the aluminum turbo covers seal any better?

71pintoracer

Quote from: slowride on May 07, 2009, 11:51:52 PM
This is going to be my daily driver, so I'm not taking this too far from stock. My biggest concern at this point is how fat it's running. THAT I need to take care of right away.
Oh, and what is teh secret t getting the valve cover gaskets to seal?  :lost:
That WAS my daily driver!!  ;D It still had the stock cam and automatic, it ran good with those simple mods.
If you can find a rubber molded type gasket, they are expensive but worth the money. When I use cork, I glue it to the V/C and put nothing on the head side. I use that yellow monkey-snot looking glue called super weatherstrip adhesive. Put a bead of it on the V/C and put the bolts through the wrong way to hold the gasket down and let it dry.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

slowride

Quote from: 71pintoracer on May 07, 2009, 10:53:58 PM
Makes perfect sense. My suggestion: ditch the stock carb and the adapter plate and bolt on a holley 350. (I think I'm remembering right, dosen't the 2.3 use an egr plate that can be removed and the bolt pattern is right for the holley?) When I first got my Pinto, I used an adapter on the 2.0 intake to mount the 350, added a header, glass pack, advanced the cam 2 degrees past true TDC, and set the total timing at 36 BTDC. It made a HUGE difference in driveability and overall power. The 350 was the last thing I did, I fiddled with the stock 5200 and it ran ok but when I put on the 350 it was like driving a different car. Be careful with the cam timing, 2 degrees seemed to work best for me, 4 degrees made it ping a little like you said.
This is going to be my daily driver, so I'm not taking this too far from stock. My biggest concern at this point is how fat it's running. THAT I need to take care of right away.
Oh, and what is teh secret t getting the valve cover gaskets to seal?  :lost:

71pintoracer

Makes perfect sense. My suggestion: ditch the stock carb and the adapter plate and bolt on a holley 350. (I think I'm remembering right, dosen't the 2.3 use an egr plate that can be removed and the bolt pattern is right for the holley?) When I first got my Pinto, I used an adapter on the 2.0 intake to mount the 350, added a header, glass pack, advanced the cam 2 degrees past true TDC, and set the total timing at 36 BTDC. It made a HUGE difference in driveability and overall power. The 350 was the last thing I did, I fiddled with the stock 5200 and it ran ok but when I put on the 350 it was like driving a different car. Be careful with the cam timing, 2 degrees seemed to work best for me, 4 degrees made it ping a little like you said.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

slowride

Tonight, I buttoned everything up and took it for a drive. More bottom end power, and generally better driving habits (still not a tire shredder by ANY stretch). I decide to add 2 more degrees of cam timing and a very slight stutter it had when I first fired it was more pronounced with a light ping on hard acceleration. I have a couple other issues to resolve before i get into that. The previous owner replaced the mechanical fuel pump with one of the impulse (cheapie) electrics, and mounted it on the fenderwell at about carb level. I know I have to move it down onto the frame rail somehow so it doesn't have to pull the fuel column so high and stays primed.I am also having a BIG problem with the engine running WAY rich and I suspect 2 things. One, the pump is putting out too much pressure....I'm pretty sure I remember reading the Weber doesn't like more than about 3.5 lbs pressure. Second, the carb is off a '79 and from what I can tell, a Canadian Fairmont 2.3. I don't know what emissions Canada had, but it has the solenoid on the carb top, and I don't need to fight a carb. When I get the pump and regulator straightened out, I'll be putting the NOS Ford '74 carb on to see what the difference is. 
Any of this make sense, or am I chasing my tail?   

slowride

I received the Racer Walsh sprocket today, so it was time to go play. I had the valve cover off and tried the bubble method explained in the "Cam Timing 101" thread, and it wasn't working. I don't know if the cam profiles are different enough between the 2.0 and 2.3, but it was time for plan B. I don't have a dial indicator and stand here, but I have the dial calipers. I used a 1" wide steel rule, laid it over the machined surfaces on the top of the cam towers and measured the distance from the rule to the intake and exhaust lobes on #1. I rotated the cam until the heights were the same. I have no way of knowing if the lobe opening and closer ramps are symmetrical, so I "assumed" they were and used that as zero. I set the sprocket to zero and tightened it down. After a few attempts finding how much to compensate for the slack in the belt, I got it.At this point, I'm looking at the pointer on the inner cover thinking with as big as it is, I'll be lucky to be within 2 degrees. I reassembled it to the point where I could fire it, and it lit right off.
The next couple days I'll be testing it and adding a couple degrees to see what difference there is. When I get it dialed in, the new carb will go on and I'll see if that takes care of the crappy gas mileage and running fat.

slowride

Everything is on track. I went to Harbor Freight Saturday early and bought an inexpensive 3 jaw puller. Brought it home and the crank pulley was off in 2 minutes (one minute was because it needed to be assembled).
It took hours to clean the front of the engine.... years of oil, dirt, more oil and even more dirt. I HATE this part of the job! Everything was stripped, bead blasted, and painted and detailed, so now I'm just waiting on the cam sprocket. You KNOW I have too much time on my hands when I'm putting the buffing wheel to the stainless hose clamps.
I made one already, but I figured I'd ask.... does anyone know if the clamps/brackets to hold the coolant pipes to the valve cover are available?

slowride

I decided to get a jump start on the belt by pulling down the front of the engine. It came to a screeching halt when I got to the crank pulley though. There aren't any jacking holes for my puller, so it looks like it's off to Harbor Freight tomorrow for a cheap 3 jaw external puller. It's not like I'm wasting time by pulling everything off.... I'll be detailing whatever I touch, so there should also be a big visual change when I'm done. I tell ya, it's a sickness.....

slowride

Well, I ordered a few things a couple days ago. The piston stop came today, so I found tdc and checked the t-belt alignment. Doesn't look like I can blame the belt for it being slow, but at this point I can't guarantee the cam index is right.
I also ordered the Racer Walsh adjustable cam sprocket so I can take the retard out of the cam. I'm going to replace the belt and tensioner this weekend, though after seeing it today, I doubt the performance will be affected. The sprocket is due in next Wednesday, so I'll install it and start around 2 degrees advanced from TRUE straight up. The new carb should be in next week, so I'll get a good idea what does what one piece at a time.

slowride

So he can kick down the good guy discount? ;)

turbopinto72

I have used both. The reason I said I was biased is because Dan Esslinger is a good friend of mine.
Brad F
1972, 2.5 Turbo Pinto
1972, Pangra
1973, Pangra
1971, 289 Pinto

slowride

That was one feature I liked about the Racer Walsh piece too. Have you used any of the other sprockets?

dick1172762

You don't have to take the center bolt loose to change the advance/retard settings.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

slowride


turbopinto72

I would buy a used Esslinger ( but I am biased ).
Brad F
1972, 2.5 Turbo Pinto
1972, Pangra
1973, Pangra
1971, 289 Pinto

slowride

I've searched the posts, read what's available on the web, and looked at (well, virtually) the Racer Walsh, Esslinger, and Speedway sprockets. I'm leaning toward the Racer Walsh for 2 reasons....easier to advance or retard than the Speedway multi index sprocket, and a better price than Esslinger. I'm not building a racer, I just want to get rid of the retard ground in the cam, pick up a little performance and hopefully some gas mileage.
Any experience and compelling reasons for one over another?