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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

1973 C4 rebuild and upgrade

Started by dave1987, May 03, 2011, 10:01:17 PM

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dave1987

First off get a pan gasket and filter kit, miht as well change the filter while you have the pan down.

You will need to drop the pan at the rear and let the fluid drain out into and oil pan, discard that fluid. When its done dripping, remove the large head bolts to drop the valve body, more fluid will drain so keep your pan handy!

Once you have the valve body out you need a 3/4 inch open end wrench to take the shift shaft bolt out, be sure you have the neutral safety switch and the linkage removed as well. Once the nut is off you can withdraw the ahift shaft out the side of the transmission.

Pry out the seal from the outside with a flatblade screwdriver. Now two in the new seal flush with the casing.

Assembly is the reverse of the disassembly.

Don't forget to lube the new seal and the shaft with trans fluid before installing the saft again.

Also, you may need to drop the trans mount to let the transmission down enough to withdraw the shift shaft, or it may run into the tunnel.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

johnbigman2011

Dave, I'm impressed. I know you must of mentioned it somewhere in all the detailed instructions that you provided. How do you change the shift seal? My C4 is leaking around the shift linkage going inti the side of the trans.

1972 Trunk Model..... Yeller Feller
1979 Wagon Turbo.... 85 2.3 Turbo
1923 T- Bucket ...... 2.0 Pinto Powered
F 250 Redneck Lincoln .... Pinto Picker upper

dave1987

Pic 5) Now you can see the most notable difference between the good and the bad shells.

Pic 6) Until I get back to the garage next week to reassemble everything, I wrap the parts in plastic wrap to keep them clean, an to keep any oils or fluids from making a mess at home! (this is how I store parts in storage as well)

Pic 7) For reference, these are the valves assemblies that get sticky from dirty fluid, or the valves themselves start to wear after time. When rebuilding your transmission, be sure to remove the valves and clean the valve body and governor well. Sediment and fluid turns to a paste like substance and gums itself into places it shouldn't be. To polish the valves I use Mother's Aluminum and Mag polish on a microfiber towel, then stick the spring end of the valve into a cordless drill chuck and wrap it with the polishing towel. If no spring end is available, I just polish them by hand the best that is possible. It works very well and gives amazing results!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

So for the past two months I have been working off and on rebuilding the transmission that Walt gave me but failed shortly after. I believe I found the culprit to it all as well. It seems there there was negative end play and everything was mashed together. It is surprising it lasted as long as it did! When I pulled apart the clutch packs there was absolutely NO lining left on the clutches for the direct drum, but the rear drum seemed to be just fine.

Also, the LEAST noticeable damage was the sun shell. It seems that the negative end play forced the end of the sun shell inwards, making the end of it concave instead of flat. I spent an hour an a half trying to figure out why I couldn't get the sun shell tabs to lock into the direct drum tabs.

I managed to locate a good sun shell locally and here is the difference pictures:

Pic 1) You can see the bowl type warping in the old shell's base in this picture

Pic 2) You can see where the forward planetary gear set was actually making contact with the inside of the sun shell. That's a lot of force required to bend the shell in that much!

pic 3) Here you can see how much the sun shell's bushing wear plate was bent due to the negative end play.

pic 4) And here is the difference in the plates when removed from the sun shells.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Thanks for the great input NJford! I never would have thought to tighten the spring any! I will be replacing the tail shaft bushing one more time just to be sure that isn't a culprit in all of this. Also will be doing the spring tightening with the seal and installing it with the petro gel and freezing it. Actually I might as well do that while I have the tail shaft off so I can tell for sure if the spring comes off or not.

Again, thank you. I have been researching this problem for weeks and never found anything this useful. Glad to have you on board with the Pinto community! This is what we're all about! :D
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

NJford

  If seal still leaks check the slip yoke make sure its not worn and also check the spring on the seal  are know to pop off when installing seal. One trick to void come backs is to pack seal with petroleum jelly and put into freezer for 20mins then install.Also you can tighten the spring alittle if your slip yoke is worn by turning spring apart and cut 4 coils off the female end and turn male end back in and reinstall. I hope this helps you.

RSM

I had a driveline built for my drag car when I installed the 9" I can't remember what the cost was but $70 might be in the ballpark for a balance. Just make sure and have them check the yoke real good...might be worn where the seal runs on it.

dave1987

I was wondering about the U-Joints, myself, not entirely sure that was the case though.

I have rebuilt the transmission, swapped out the rear axle for one that is known to be vibration free (was in my 78 sedan, originally came from a 73 wagon as well though), new U-Joints, new transmission and motor mounts, and new tires with freshly balanced rims.

The only thing I have not have professionally tested yet, is the drive shaft. If that's not it, I don't know....

I have a shop who will spin balance my drive shaft for $70.00. Isn't that a bit expensive though?
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

FCANON

I've had new U-joints that were crappy... Just say-n!

FrankBoss

www.pintoworks.com   www.tirestopinc.com
www.stophumpingmytown.com
www.FrankBoss.com

dave1987

Well then it sounds like its time to check that driveshaft. The tires are new as of the 20th. Balanced and all!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

RSM

I would pull the driveline and have it checked and install a new seal and bushing just to save more headaches down the road. The yoke could also be an issue and a driveline shop can check it out for you. The vibration could also be tires. How old are they and when were they balanced last??

Srt

i am reading it too! & i think you've taken a lot of the mystery out of the task of working on & maintaining automatic transmissions
the only substitute for cubic inches is BOOST!!!

dave1987

There is a vibration while going from 35-40. Think the drive shaft needs balanced?
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

RSM

Hows the balance on the driveline? Any vibrations?

dave1987

So I noticed a leak today.....

The output shaft seal at the end of the tail shaft seems to be leaking, as I have fluid all over the tunnel under the car!

I have a new seal, and new bushing, why is this happening? Is there a such thing as a drive shaft repair sleeve that I could use to remedy this?
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

I fixed the leak today! It was the rear (return line) 90 degree fitting. I forgot to put an o-ring inside the female side where the line screws in. For extra precaution I wrapped some high density industrial grade thread tape around the threads of both the line nut threads and the male fitting threads to stop any leaks. All sealed up now and working well!

Now I'm afraid that the condenser might have been a step to far in this project, as it may be blocking flow some due to it's small internal passages. I may be swapping out the condenser for a F-250 oil cooler in the near future, we will see. I need to call around to some tranny shops and get their advise on the topic.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

And that's it! All finished up. $314.11 in total parts and work performed, the rest was my own labor. Not bad at all. It shifts smoothly, downshifts to passing gear smoothly, engages smoothly and every time, even has given the car more acceleration!

I think I got it right this time, no more transmission work for awhile!

The only thing I noticed was a small transmission fluid drip from the passenger side, I'm guessing it's the feed line's 90 degree fitting. I need to look at that tomorrow and stop the leak before it gets bad.

Only piece of advise I can think of to give now, is...If you plan to do your own transmission, pay to get decent parts (if stock, a Pioneer kit will work, and if performance go with a racing kit), take your time (it's easy to get overwhelmed),  and don't cut corners. While my upgraded cooler probably isn't 100% necessary, but the peace of mind from knowing it will not overheat again is well worth the time it took to make everything work together.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

13 - I thought I would post this to show proper depth of the torque converter before mounting it to the motor. This is how deep the TC should be in the 2.0 bell housing after it has slid over both sets of splines (the stator and the input shaft).

14 - One more shot of proper TC depth.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

9 - This is the series of adapters and compression fittings connected

10 - And this shows an exploded view of them all as follows (left to right). 1/2" compression nut, sleeve, 1/2" to 5/16" adapter, 5/16" male to female adapter, sleeve, 5 1/6" compression nut.

11 - This is the rear half of the feed line with the 5/16" end of hardware on it (line connected to the transmission)

12 - This is the new 1/2" line for the front half of the feed line. I had to bend it straight because the bend was at the middle of the motor oil pan, but 1/2" isn't hard to bend without kinks. The line has the 1/2" end of hardware on it.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

5 - The return and feed steel lines on the condenser and connected to corosponding hoses, which then connect to the steel lines to the transmission.

6 - Condenser mounted with the hood bracket in front of it and the grill reattached.

7 - This is the original front half of the feed line. The brass something or other repair in the middle of the line worried me and is why I planned to have it re-formed.

8 - The two lines would connect as shown. The transmission half (rear half) of the line is on the left, and the front half on the right. I'm not sure if it is like this from the factory or not though.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

For the condenser, I pulled it and took it and the tubes to Andy's Supply to figure out a way to connect the cooling lines to it, and while they were making the lines I dropped off the condenser at Radiator King to have them flush and pressure test it (which came out positive). For all of the fittings and adapters it cost me $25, including the section of the 1/2" steel line. The cleaning and testing of the condenser cost me $15.00. That's $40 more on the project, but it keeps the outward appearance original. The only difference you might see is the missing hoses from the A/C compressor, which doesn't even have a belt on it's pulley right now.


1 - Condenser (nearly three times the overall surface than the Bronco II oil cooler

2 - Return line for the transmission on the condenser/cooler. This originally connected to the expansion tube, and connects to the lower condenser port.

3 - Return line for the transmission on the condenser/cooler. This one originally went to the A/C pump and was part of the hose.

4 - This shows where the tube was cut from the compressor hose.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

It's finished! Finished and I drove Brownie home tonight! She drives like a dream now! :D

After 15 hours of work I installed the transmission and upgraded the cooler, as well as swapped out the rear axle! All is well in dave1987's Pinto Land! :D :P



So I scrapped the idea of using the Bronco II cooler, as the A/C (non operable) condenser was in the way and the Bronco II cooler wouldn't get any air flow. I didn't want to remove the condenser from the car, so I had a better idea. Why not just use the condenser as an oil cooler?

So I did! I had the condenser cleaned and pressure tested and it came out just fine. Next I got the two piece cooler feed line modified. The front half of the line was very poorly repaired at some point in time, so I was originally planning to just have it reformed, but the size of the fitting on the condenser required a 1/2" line to be used. My local brass and steel supplier was able to come up with a series of brass fittings to step the 5/16" original (rear half) feed line up to 1/2" (front half) line. They then gave me a 20" section of 1/2" line which was coupled to the 5/16" line with adapters to step up.

I am using the upper port on the condenser as feed  with the 1/2" fitting and the lower port as return with the 5/16" fitting. Everything is working great!

I'll have pictures up by wednesday night.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Glad to hear someone is watching the thread! :)

One thing I should mention, is that the rebuild kit that I purchased from Pioneer is a C4/C5 kit, so it comes with a handful of extra seals and two extra oil rings for the stator support. I called Pioneer myself to verify this. So, if you are looking for an early 80s C5 kit, this would be the one!

Monday I will be finalizing this project, including changing out the rear axle for a 28k mile axle I bought off craigslist and used briefly in my 78 Sedan. It's repainted with new seals. When I got Brownie running, the rear axle was the only thing I didn't do any work to, it still has the ancient gear oil in it, which didn't even need topping off. I knew I would change it out, and figured why both messing with it?

There will be pictures either monday night or wednesday night at the latest of the new oil cooler install as well, so stay tuned!
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

pintoman1972

Ok Dave,

I am also using the adjustable yellow band modulator.  Even though the adjustment only changes the shift points a few MPH up or down, the early shift points help with what little gas milage I have.  I don't have the luxury of running lean or changing the timing for better milage so I find it where I can.

Am enjoying your updates as I am sure many other are also.

Dick

dave1987

I'm using a yellow band modulator, same as the original. I believe it was $22.00 from O'Reilly Auto Parts but had to be ordered from the Salt Lake City depot because the two they had in the store as "yellow band" modulators were red and green ones.
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

pintoman1972

Which color band push on Vacuum Modulator are you using?

dave1987

When those of you who have never worked on an automatic transmission before (like myself before I did this project), the thought of it may be intimidating. Great news though, the Ford C4 is an extremely simple beast, and there really are not many parts. The hardest part is remembering where parts go and keeping them in order, so organization and a clean work bench is a MUST. Having a manual with you while doing the work eliminates the guess work, especially with the Haynes C3, C4, C5 Tech Book. I found the illustrations quite helpful at times when I was unsure of something!

I did not install the torque converter on the transmission yet, as I don't want it to sit out for another week or two just collecting dust. I will wait until I am ready to install the unit and then install it.

Also, I plan to dump the rest of the lucas oil treatment, that is left over from the rebuild, in with the type F fluid I am added. I could not find the max life fluid which has the lucas treatment already in it, so adding the rest of this bottle and filling the rest of the transmission with the Valvoline regular type F should keep it going strong for awhile!

When it comes time to install the transmission, I will take shots of the mounting of the new cooler. I also have to pull the second half of the return line and have it re-formed since it appears to have leaked in the past and someone tried to cold weld it. Once the transmission is installed, I will be changing out the rear axle and the drive-line work on Brownie will be complete!

Photo 1 - This really shows best, everything I worked on, in a consolidated shot.

Photo 2 - Right side of the transmission. Clean and rebuilt! :D

Photo 3 - Left side of the transmission. Again, clean and rebuilt! :D

Photo 4 - The new cooler I will be using. As stated earlier, this is a Bronco II oil cooler. It is about three times BIGGER than the small ones I have found on Mustang IIs and Pintos with the C3 and C4 transmissions, so I believe it should be more than adequet for a stock 73 Pinto station wagon
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

5 - Tail shaft end with new oil seal
6 - Two magnets in pan to collect metallic debris
7 - Modified 5/8" wrench (top)
8 - Modified 5/8" wrench (side)
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

I finished rebuilding the transmission today! :D

Just as you have heard from other people and read about online, it is very easy to do, just take your time and follow a manual while doing the job and you can't really go wrong!

One thing I did want to point out to everyone is that there are two thimble/basket filters in the C4. One tiny one for the governor distributor, and another one for the valve body feed port. Figuring out which of the two ports is the feed port for the valve body can be easy to mix up. Just remember that it is the larger round hole closest to the manual shift lever. (Picture below)

I replaced all of the thrust washers in the unit with new ones that I purchased in a "thrust washer kit" from Transtar Industries. I also replaced the #1 thrust washer with a thicker selective washer. The #1 washer is made of plastic and is directly behind the pump. I purchased one of each size minus the largest (there are five sizes) for $1.59 each and $2.24 for the second to the thickest. I will keep them around for when I rebuild the other C4 that Carl gave to me before I give it away.

The only thrust washer I could not locate to replace is the selective #2 thrust washer which goes behind the stator support. No one in town carried them and I could only get one size of the #2 washer from Transtar Industries if they were to order one from Salt Lake City, so I reused the original one.

I took disassembled the valve body as well. I already installed a TransGo shift kit in this valve body before I started this work, but I used it in the other transmission which had contaminated fluid, so taking it apart and cleaning it was a MUST. While I had it apart, I replaced the check balls with new ones (again), and reinstalled the "hockey puck" on the upper half of the valve body, to soften the shifts a little, since my wife will be driving this to Emmett this summer.

I replaced the drive-shaft bushing on the tail shaft housing, installed magnets in the pan to collect any potential/future debris, and mounted the bell housing.

The cooler fittings are loosely installed at the moment because I forgot to bring my modified 5/8" open end wrench with me. The collar nut on the 90 degree brass fittings are extremely hard to remove or tighten without a very thin open end wrench. So I went to the pawn shop last year, when I was doing work on the other transmission, and bought an extra 5/8" wrench to take to the grinding bench. Pictures of it below.

Now pictures:

1 - Proper location for thimble/basket filter for valve body
2 - Bottom of valve body
3 - Top of valve body
4 - Valve body installed
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!

dave1987

Just a couple more pictures. Stay tuned for more updates!

5 - Governor assembly
6 - Forward/Reverse clutch pack/hub assembled
1978 Ford Pinto Sedan - Family owned since new

Remembering Jeff Fitcher with every drive in my 78 Sedan.

I am a Pinto Surgeon. Fixing problems and giving Pintos a chance to live again is more than a hobby, it's a passion!