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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Cam Timing 101

Started by 71pintoracer, February 21, 2009, 06:13:15 PM

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71pintoracer

Quote from: stinsonj on March 09, 2011, 02:49:27 PM
This may be a dumb question, but i need to completely reset my cam timing on my 1975 2.3L and am worried about a valve impacting a piston and maybe bending it while i find TDC on the #1.  Its basically an initial set up, so its possible i might have to rotate the crank 180 degrees before i reach TDC and was wondering if there might be some valve interference since the cam wont be turning.  If one of the valves were fully open at a cylinder with a TDC piston, would the valve hit the top of the piston? Or am i just making stuff up?  Like i said, could be a very dumb question but just would rather be safe than sorry.
Not a dumb question by any means. The stock 2.3 is not an interference engine (nor is the 2.0) so you can turn the engine around and not hit the valves. If you have shaved a lot off of the head and/or are using a performance cam, then yes, they will hit. If that is the case, I put #1 piston down in the cylinder a little bit before installing the head with the cam as close to straight up as possible. Then bring #1 up to TDC.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

Scott Hamilton

Yellow 72, Runabout, 2000cc, 4Spd
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The Lemon, the Lime and the Coconut, :)

skunky56

Thanks racer, you can also find offset woodruff keys that accomplish the same thing as the adjustable pulleys. I have been fooling around with my Esslinger pulley lately. I found I get a little more top end by retarding my timing a few degrees, and yes advancing gets it off the stop lights better.
Thanks again for the great write up.
77 Starsky/Hutch 2.3 Turbo A4OD Sunroof
78 Wagon V6 C3

stinsonj

This may be a dumb question, but i need to completely reset my cam timing on my 1975 2.3L and am worried about a valve impacting a piston and maybe bending it while i find TDC on the #1.  Its basically an initial set up, so its possible i might have to rotate the crank 180 degrees before i reach TDC and was wondering if there might be some valve interference since the cam wont be turning.  If one of the valves were fully open at a cylinder with a TDC piston, would the valve hit the top of the piston? Or am i just making stuff up?  Like i said, could be a very dumb question but just would rather be safe than sorry.

turbo74pinto

this is the method i used.  but as it was stated, it will not get it dead on with a split duration cam.  a degree wheel is on my "tool wish list".  also dont forget that with hydrolic lifters, a solid lifter is needed, set to 0 lash, to find your exact cam specs.  thats just something that could be easily over looked. although, the cam would still be able to be degreed with the hydrolic lifters.

bob
Take a job big or small, do it right or not at all.

75bobcatv6

+1 to 71pintoracer for the indepth How to

pintogirl

Thanks for the write up with pics!!! Very nicely done!!!

Kim
Kim
www.pintobuyersanonymous.com

I have come to realize that I am powerless to cuteness of a rusty old Pinto.

Sacramento CA

71pintoracer

Kevin, it can make a slight difference on a performance cam with different lift and duration profiles. To be 100% accurate you need to use a dial indicator and degree wheel and as pintosopher stated, find absolute TDC. This will get you pretty darn close though.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

72Wagon

 Thanks, that was a great post. Does this procedure work on any type performance cam as long as the lift and duration are equal on both intake and exhaust? Or does that not make a difference?
Kevin
1972 Wagon
2.0 (not stock), 4 Speed with Hurst shifter and roll control, Holley 390 4bbl, Spearco intake, MSD Ignition. 8 inch rearend 3.55 gears, custom dash and interior.

71pintoracer

And that, ladies and gents is how it's done!  ;D One more thing, if you want to put the timing belt cover back on, you will have to put spacers behind the uppermost bolts because  the bolts in the adjustment part of the pulley will hit. If you use the Motorsport index style pulley the cover will fit OK. I just left mine off, I thought it looked cool!!  :amazed:
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

71pintoracer

By loosening the three bolts on the cam pulley, you can turn the inside part of the pulley and move the cam. The instructions with the pulley say to put a wrench on the cam and turn it but that usually won't work because the tolerances of the pulley make it too tight. I take one of the three bolts out and take a punch and tap it in the slotted area.
Once you have it on 0 the bubble is centered.
Another way is to measure both sides of the metal as it is laying across the cam. When it is the same on both sides it is at 0. Not quite as accurate but it will get you in the ballpark and you don't have to level the engine to do it.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

71pintoracer

More pics...
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

71pintoracer

Now we need a few things: a 6" carpenters level and a piece of flat metal. Mine is aluminum, 3-1/2" by 6-1/2"
1. Put the level on the back edge of the head.
2. Jack up the side of the car to get the engine level.
3. Lay the metal across the cam lobes and get it to balance on them. You may need to move it around and side to side a little to get it to balance.
4. Put the level on the metal and get it all to balance.
If the cam is "straight up" the bubble will be centered. Make sure your pointer is still on TDC.
If the cam is retarded, the bubble will be to the right.
If the cam is advanced, the bubble will be to the left.
If you look closely at this pic you can see the cam is retarded, you can even see the metal is leaning a little.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

71pintoracer

OK, here we go!
1. Remove the valve cover. This is a good time to replace that leaky gasket!  :o
2.Put the engine on "0" or TDC and line up the cam dot/pointer
3. The front cam lobes should be pointing up and forming a shallow "V"
Note: on the 2.0 you need to remove the oiling tube. Put a rag in the oil return holes (one in front, one in back, see pointer) so the little bolts don't fall down in there and ruin your day!  :P
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

71pintoracer

Right you are pintosopher, and to be 100% in time that needs to be done. I don't know an easy way to do it without a degree wheel and with the engine in the car. Maybe someone else can help with that. The 2.3 has a pointer made on the timing belt cover. The 2.0 has a tab made on the lower cover. At this point we will have to hope TDC is at least very close.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

Pintosopher

While I agree that there are other ways to Find True TDC, I've always used a thread in plug type Stop in the spark plug hole on #1 cylinder. After using this method with a Esslinger Degree type crank power pulley, I was amazed how far off the Crank Pointer marks were from stock. So I made a New pointer to match up and continued from there. This only was required on a 2.0L motor, I don't know how the 2.3L engine marks on the crank are set up.
In the end, my engine needed less than 2 degrees advance at the Adjustable Esslinger cam pulley.

I used to build Motorcycle engines for racing, Same theory and practice.

Pintosopher
Yes, it is possible to study and become a master of Pintosophy.. Not a religion , nothing less than a life quest for non conformity and rational thought. What Horse did you ride in on?

Check my Pinto Poems out...

71pintoracer

Closer pics of the pulleys, the Esslinger has a timing tape on it, the others have dots.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

71pintoracer

Here are three different adjustable cam pulleys I have, (these are for a 2.0 as are all of the pics I am going to post, however, the 2.3 is set up the same way.) On the left is a Racer Walsh, center is Esslinger, right is a home made job. Ford motorsport made one for the 2.3 that was a multi-index, it had eight slots for the cam keyway, each was two degrees apart. It worked ok, but in order to change the cam timing you had to loosen the belt, take the pulley off and move it to a different slot. On the three pictured here, you just loosen the three bolts and move the inner section.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

discolives78



A virtual version of my last Pinto. Was Registered Ride #111. Missed every day.

71pintoracer

Here are the tools professional engine builders use to set up a cam. (also us backyard performance engine guys!) This is a degree wheel and a dial indicator, and with these you can find absolute top dead center of the crank (TDC) and zero the cam using a spec sheet. We don't need these. I'm going to show you a way that is very close and good enough for what we want to do.
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?

71pintoracer

There seems to be some intrest on the subject of cam timing. In another post, I commented that many stock OHC Pintos could very well have retarded cam timing (especially if the head has ever been resurfaced) which leads to poor performance and driveability issues. Even if the engine has never been apart, things like belt stretch and differences in machining tolerances can affect cam timing. Cams are designed to be run "straight up" or zero degrees to the crank. However, advancing or retarding the cam can make a big difference in how the engine runs. Back in my dirt track racing days, by using an adjustable cam pulley, I could "tune" the engine to the track conditions. If the track was tacky and had a lot of grip, I would advance the cam to give it more low end power so it would not bog down off of the corners. If the track was dry and slick, I would retard the cam (taking away low end power) so it would not spin the tires off the corners. That being said, you can see there is a slight trade off with cam timing, but with a stock cammed Pinto, expecially an automatic, I would favor advancing the cam a few degrees to get low end power. Six degrees either way from zero is considered to be the maximum, but I really think that is pushing it. On my wife's stock street driven Pinto, two degrees advanced seemed to work best. Remember, if the cam is already retarded say four degrees, and you set it two degrees advanced, that a grand total of six degrees (but only two degrees past zero) and it is going to make a huge difference!  If you can change a timing belt, you can degree your cam. OK, lets get started!  ;D
If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?