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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

lower efi intake with carb questions

Started by waldo786, November 30, 2014, 04:41:18 PM

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amc49

Most '96 and later OBDII vehicles they simply go into the PCM during inspection and it will tell if anything has been out of kilter as far as emissions. Basically having a CEL tells them there is a problem there, simply having that light on is a fail inspect here.

Yours probably a HC converter only as the air injection has extra plumbing if the cat is a TWC, the air is then switched from upper at ports to the MIDDLE of the cat at full warm engine since the forward section is NOx and does NOT like extra air but the rear HC section does want it to burn better. Middle of cat then has a open air chamber for injection.

Passive pulse air injection uses no pump, it works due to the normally present exhaust pulsation in all engines, fours have them fairly strong and spaced well and they can be used to zoop air into the exhaust stream. Every exhaust positive pulse out is followed by a negative vacuum pulse, what headers use to increase power, the vacuum pulls more intake mixture into cylinder at overlap period. Using those pulses for air injection requires using one way check valves (usually reeds) that have lower values than normal smog pump ones, they must work with very light pressures. The ones off say Tempos '88-'94 work well for that, they are the low pressure ones being they used pulse air with no pump. Since no true pumping going on there they can often use two valves rather than one to increase air volume.

waldo786

http://www.dmv.de.gov/forms/veh_serv_forms/pdfs/D24609_Vehicle_InspectionNEW.pdf?110711

The car is a 1976.  That's a PDF link to the inspection process here.  I live in Kent County, and for vehicles pre 1980 it is just a sniffer test at idle.  Newer cars do have to do the other rpm tests, although I just got my daily driver inspected, and they did not do any test other than plug in a computer to look at if it is running fine - t's a 2001.  I'm assuming the cat in there is an HC one but I don't know if it's ever been replaced with anything else.  The stock set up has air going into the exhaust manifold pretty high up I want to see even before the collector.  Can you tell me more about the passive pulse injection as I am not familiar with that?  I did get an adjustable cam gear, so adjusting timing should hopefully be easier with that.  Where could I get one of those a non-fouler inserts?  Thanks again, and Wittsend, I just like to know the pros and cons of things, and how much modification might be necessary.  For a daily driver, sounds like the work is maybe not worth just keeping the stock intake and using the ACE adapter.  If nothing else, others may and probably do have similar questions about the EFI intake, so this is an invaluable resource for them to find also.  I know I've learned a lot and am continuing to do so.

Wittsend

He is listed as being in Delaware. Not sure what the laws are there.

In Calif. '75 and older cars don't need the biannual smog test!!!  For the unfortunate it is a two speed (15 MPH & 25 MPH) dyno test in most areas. Certain areas of Calif. only do stationary and others only on change of ownership rather than biannual. Obviously the closer you are to a large population the tougher it gets.  Ignition time has to be accurate within 2 degrees of factory. All original factory smog needs to be present. Nothing cobbled. The saying goes, "As goes California, so goes the nation." So, there is a likelihood they have similar laws.

For OBD II cars they can still fail even though they pass a visual and emission test. The computer "monitors" need to all have cycled and reported back. I've heard on some German cars that can take upwards of 800-900 miles!  You can fail a smog test just because you replaced your battery! BTW, I hear next year 2000 (ish) and up cars will only plug in the OBD II port. No more dyno.  Not sure if that is good or bad.

amc49

Does DMV test at anything ABOVE idle like putting car on treadmill to simulate up to 30 mph? What year is car, you can add air injection like you mentioned but before cat that added air will mess up the NOx portion (forward section) of a 3 way cat but not a single bed one for HC only. Many cars went to TWCs around '79-'80, before that they were HC only. I had a '79 with no cat and no smog pump and added a single bed cat and smog air into pipe about 12 inches before the cat and car actually ran cleaner on emissions than my new MPFI car did. Inspector was going to fail the car because it did not have all OEM equipment but when he saw how clean it ran he was flabbergasted. I had adjusted the carb to slide right under that test.

If they don't strictly require the smog pump it is easier on a four cylinder to plump for passive pulse air injection, no smog pump or extra belt to worry about and the fours air inject by exhaust pulsing just fine.

EGR does not work at idle but they can commonly test for NOx there anyway, you can slow the timing down a bit to help the numbers out. I used to drop timing back to say TDC or even retard a couple degrees, engine won't run as well but only for the inspection and then bring it right back up.

The O2 bung is tapped for 18 mm. spark plug, not the easiest fitting to find, best option is cutting off end of a non-fouler insert to have a fitting that can screw right in.

Wittsend

After reading some more posts on here ..., I'm going to stick with a stock intake.

Hey, no problem, after all wasn't the "Side Show" an attraction all by itself?  ;D

waldo786

Lots of good info here.  After reading some more posts on here, and taking into consideration Dick mentioning the stock intakes are used in stock class racing and can get up to 145 mph, and the fact I just want a nice cruiser, I'm going to stick with a stock intake.  I did purchase the 2bbl intake ACE adapter for the stock intake.  Seems like it should help some, and work fine for what I want the car to do.  I haven't gotten the adapter yet, but it looks like it will replace the stock spacer with about the same height.  Unfortunately, any higher and I do think there would be clearance issues.  I also a rebuilt 2150 carb to put on there too.  Looks like I'll be removing the egr as the new space has no provision for it.  If I absolutely had too, I imagine I could drill holes in the ACE adapter to accept the EGR.  I'd also have to drill and tap the ranger header that also does not have an EGR hookup.  Another odd question perhaps.  Since I won't need the O2 sensor, could I take it out and some how hook up a line from the smog pump to that location?  I currently reside in DE, and the DMV rules say that the sniffer test they do is at idle, when the EGR isn't even operating.  I know sometimes my questions may seem odd, but I'l many times think of something and just wonder if its possible, if it works, or if someone has done it.  Thanks again.

amc49

The 1/4" plugs set in even with that first recess step to look nice and neat and the ends line up perfectly with the boss inside port to make easier porting up to them and even into them if one chooses to clean those injector bumps up.

kerryann

amc49, i did the same, 7/16" drill, barely took any material off then i tapped for 1/4" pipe plugs, clamped the intake in the vice and just aligned the tap as best i could with the holes.  all worked out fine.  I used brass plugs with a square head just because i had 4 of them matching.  had just enough reach to get them tight with the wrench.  socket head plugs would be better but i didn't have any.

dick1172762

One other thing I did was to put threaded studs in all the intake mounting holes. They were easy to find on e-bay. This way being in the water jacket wouldn't hurt. I use threaded studs everywhere  I can on engines I build.  ACE that builds the EFI adapter has them in stock.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

amc49

Got pipe plugs in mine as well but 1/4" instead, the holes just clean up with a dusting using the 7/16" drill bit that is used to for 1/4" pipe. Can be done easily with part sitting in your hands and how I did mine.

Still waiting for someone to realize what I was talking about with the bolt hole hitting the injector hole edge, all that measuring and pics and blather there did not address that issue at all.  Drill the hole and then torque the bolt with a pipe plug already tight in the hole, you may quickly see what I'm talking about..........the flange can easily crack at the point of least resistance regardless of how thick it is elsewhere. Just because someone has not seen that means nothing, I have and in plenty of different situations. Your stuff-do what you will.

I'll be drilling the head myself, as Dick points out not that hard at all even on car. The more reliable method.

The manifold is stiff enough to not leak for a while missing a bolt but fuel slowly seeps into the gasket to let it fall apart if not well pinched to slow that down by years. The pinch stops much of the soaking.



kerryann

yea i've had to deal with old 2bbl intakes slotted to fit on the centerbolt chevy heads. the joys of stock class racing.  I'm going to take the chance with the bolt out for now.  i'll do the ether test after i put some miles and heat cycles on the gasket.  The gasket was cheap enough anyway.  Right now I still have to get my carb to work right for my own peace of mind.  If anyone gets this far and goes with a new bolt hole in the head or drilled/milled hole in the intake i'd like to hear how you made out.

Wittsend

Don't know if you will hit a water jacket or not, but at least you will know when to stop drilling.  ;)   And, if you do, just put sealant on the bolt. I'd assume the other intake bolt length would be an indicator of depth.

Chevy (SBC) has had at least three different intake bolt configurations.  When they went to the vertical center bolts a lot of people just slotted the center holes on older manifolds and let the bolts "clamp where they may."  So, there is ideal and there is "good enough."

kerryann

i just finished installing my efi intake on our 1980 with the ACE adapter.  i had been having mid range flat spot problems before with the 7448 holley on the stock intake and this didn't cure it.  the car does have good throttle response on the main circuit though.  I didn't notice the bolt that doesn't go in at the top at the front until after i had gotten the intake on with gasket and some silicone.  So I ended up leaving that top front most bolt out.  the stock intake had lost that bolt and the one next to it and the factory gasket still didn't break or get swallowed.  Reason I say this is because it looks to me like the lack of a bolt there with the thickness of the aluminum flange of the intake won't make much of a difference.  The bolt next to it and the bolt below it are just about directly across from one another if you drew an imaginary line across the intake port.  This seems like it would be sufficient, like a cross bolt type situation.  Maybe I'll find I'm wrong and I suppose it wouldn't be too hard to get a bushing and drill a hole in the head and tap with the intake in place, might just have to remove the alternator.  If I end up having to go this route is there any danger of hitting water/coolant?  How deep of a hole is correct?  My head isn't coming off so if i do need to add a bolt hole it has to be done with the motor in car.

76hotrodpinto

I'm thinking if I go this route, I'll bolt it up to some 1" plate and fill the injector ports with a welder, then pretty it up. I think I even have some 1" aluminum to cut the adapter out of. I'm not unhappy with my current setup, but the 2,3 runners are just so much shorter than 1,4. And 2,3 just straight shoot into the head, while 1,4 are longer and have more angles.
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

dick1172762

By the way, I have a nice clean EFI intake with the injector hole plug'd with aluminum pipe plugs and NO porting for sale if anybody is interested . $75 shipped in the US of A.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

I used pipe plugs in my EFI intake. But first you have to drill the injector holes out to 1/2" so the holes can be taped 3/8 Pipe.  Easy except the injector holes are on a compound angle.  Need a drill press or mill to do it correctly.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

dick1172762

 Postal pony has a 4 barrel carb on his with a homemade adapter.  All the store bought adapters are for a 2 barrel carb.  Number one runner.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

76hotrodpinto

So thats on the number one runner? Are people running 4v carbs only on these? Or will a 4412 flow right on there too?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

74 PintoWagon

So easy a Vega owner could do it.
A Vega owner, that's funny, LOL...
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Wittsend

Drilling the hole in the head is obviously the best fix.  I'd still like to see the tightening side of the "Filled & Drilled" intake. Getting the surface flat for the bolt head seems like the most difficult part.  My perspective is only the EFI intake - on my car.

If JB weld is used as a hole plug I'd chamfer the top/bottom of the hole and put a piece of wire (like Re-bar) slightly shorter than the fill area.  All I can say is I melted the nylon seal on my fuel sender when I opted to run EFI return line through a hole I drilled. The soldering process of the tube did the melting.  I just covered it with a healthy dose of J.B. weld and 3 years later with ethanol blended fuel I have no leaks. But, yea, I can see the concerns about broken chunks of filler getting sucked into the engine.   Hence the chamfer and the "Re-bar" like wire.

dick1172762

Went out to the shop and looked again. The hole in question is .368 in diameter and the bolt is .187 in diameter, so I ran some sandpaper thru the hole and put a 3/16"id X  3/8"od drill bushing in the hole. Nice fit and this allowed the new hole to be on center with the hole in the intake. Then I ran a 3/16" drill into the bushing  just far enough to make a center on the head. Removed the intake and there on the head was the drill center to show me where to drill the new hole. Next step is to press a drill bushing into a block of aluminum to allow me to drill the new hole straight and true. All of this was done with a 3/8" drill and the motor in the car. No big deal. So easy a Vega owner could do it.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

amc49

No way would I consider a simple all epoxy plug as reliable there. The shape of hole is smooth enough heat and exposure to fuel will very possibly loosen that to come loose making at the least a vacuum leak. Seen it plenty of times. Thread for pipe plug and very lightly torque with epoxy, that would be much better.  We glued up porting holes in plenty of heads back in the day and you get an appreciation for what can work or fail pretty easy.  The vast majority of epoxy fixes out there are fails that just haven't happened yet. Most people do not work the issue out well enough trusting blindly in the epoxy to 'glue up everything'. They don't rough up the surface good nor do they remove all dirt and oil properly for more bite.

Light torque on bolt there can burn you, that flat can leak with lower torque, the gasket material used there contributes to it if still the same type they used to use. I've seen OEM 2.3s with sucked out  gaskets at the thinner part when the torque does not sink the intake into the gasket, it is often too hard and not pliable enough. The gasket can s-ck in on the bottom where you can't see it until intake is off.

No way do you have 7/16" there, it appears so on the backside flat but the injector hole is at a heavy angle, on top side the bolt hole will impinge on the injector hole chamfer, in short they touch. Any cracking will be on the outside.

amc49

True all that but dressing down the aluminum will put new hole pretty close to stressed material if a pipe plug used there, tightening down manifold bolt on an unlucky day may crack the new hole. Maybe seal plug real well and not use normal tightness to lower that?  I'm leaning more toward drill/tap the head, easy enough to throw the head up on drillpress after marking the hole.

Yes, it's d-mn comical how everything done on these motors requires jumping through funny little hoops to get things done. Seems to me the design teams had some funny thoughts as they were designing this motor. The four completely different intake ports come to mind instantly.  Many have said the engine was designed by a committee of people who didn't talk much. The OEM intake is certainly a nightmare.

76hotrodpinto

Wedge a stick between the fender and manifold... or duck tape.

It seems like there really aren't many manifolds that just perform well with out some kind of alteration. I like to carve on metal, so that's fine. Just kinda weird that there seems to be something different to do on each manifold choice. Is there a manifold that just addressed all the issues and engineered it work correctly out of the box?
1976 half hatch 2.3 turbo w/t5.

Wittsend

Interesting point on a N/A car.  I just looked at the reverse side on my EFI manifold and it seems that the surface the bolt would contact is irregular.  I'd assume if you plugged the injector opening with weld and then machined the surface it would work.

I guess it just comes down to the tools you have at your disposal and where you want to put the effort.  Most people have a drill and even a wrench can turn a tap. Not everyone has the ability to weld aluminum and machine the surface.

That said, I'd probably fill the injector opening with a tight fitting aluminum rod and then grind the surface with a die grinder until it was "good enough" to tighten the bolt. Maybe use a plastic washer and something like Devcon to get a flatter surface, then remove the plastic washer once the Devcon set and use a thick metal washer to displace the tightening load.

Anyone have a fourth option? Maybe a huge "C" clamp around the back of the head?  LOL

dick1172762

Hole was moved inward because of the injector port on just that one cylinder. All the other holes are ok as is. There is lots of room on the head to drill / tap the new hole. Adding material  to the intake by welding would work too, but would be a lot of work. I think the new hole could be done after the motor was complete by using a drill bushing in the odd hole on the EFI intake with the intake bolted on to the engine. Doesn't need to be 100% perfect, just close and dead center of the odd hole in the intake. Once you have the hole started, the intake could be removed and a drill fixture that prevents the remainder of the drilling from going in crooked. No harder than drilling out a broke off exhaust bolt.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

amc49

You got me there too, I thought I had checked that a good while back but I obviously didn't.........................hope there's material there to do it.  The actual hole making is no trouble unless head already on a car.......................

74 PintoWagon

Thanks Dick didn't know that, learn something new everyday..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

dick1172762

One thing nobody has talked about is to use this intake (EFI) you must drill and tap a new hole in the head because of the mounting hole being moved on the EFI intake. Just one hole but it must be done before the intake will work.
Its better to be a has-been, than a never was.

74 PintoWagon

Haven't got the carb yet but I think 1" would be max for clearance, gotta have a decent air cleaner on it. But I'll see when I find a carb, I plan on going as high as I can.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.