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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

Replacement distributor will not run right

Started by kerryann, May 06, 2014, 05:28:04 PM

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74 PintoWagon

Glad to hear it's up and running, those numbers are good too..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

jonz2pinto

Good.I am glad things finally worked out. I have never worked on tuning distributors.I just haven't got past the carb tuning.
Pinto-is short for pint-o-fun.

kerryann

i ended up sending the distributor back.  got another reman this morning.  the box it was in had went through hell but the distributor looked ok.  was on the 21L slot with no bushing so i took it apart.  noticed the tangs for the springs were bent more to increase spring tension.  i bent them back slightly so the coils of the springs just about touch at rest.  switched out the one heavy spring for a light spring off the original distributor.  now have two light springs.  i also had to sand the body down on this one too for it to fit into the block, no biggie though.  put it on the 16L slot and added the plastic bushing from the original distributor.  reassembled with some never seize and put it in the car.  car fired right up, i timed it and have it set at 10 initial 36 total.  with vacuum advance hooked up goes to 32 initial in park idling.  drove it around, no pinging and feels good.  there was definitely a broken wire where they spliced the harness together in the other one that i returned.  hopefully they don't just rebox it and send it back out!

my off idle flat spot is back but that i'll take care of another day when it stops raining out.

amc49

The car or whatever does not care how much money one has, they either have enough to fix the problem or.........................driving a vehicle entails certain responsibility to keep equipment running correctly or the problems begin. There is no such device as what you expound. Again, you fix the engine to not do it. Routine backfire that will not fix means cam timing is messed up or valve damage. Or exhaust plugged up. Regardless of the money situation. Not trying to be heartless, but the reality of the situation. Planet earth works in certain ways, we either go with those to our better benefit or against them and more trouble ahead guaranteed.

If truly dieseling then you put a solenoid on throttle or replace the one that's not working. You don't have to 'be there', simply ask when it does it, which is when key is turned OFF to kill the engine. Injection usually does not diesel as engine must have fuel to do it, the injectors turn off as engine is killed.

jonz2pinto

there are reasons i asked about a backfire valve(made the name just now).one is someone from church(with aerostar) would call me to check it out several times.they don't have the money to have it checked out by a mechanic.being fuel injected it is to complicated for me.i am not there when it happens.could be deiseling and motor turning backwards.a back valve might also keep from damaging something important like map sensor.would also help as a temperary tuning device til problem solved.would of helped in the case this topic is about.i do agree it should be a replacement for the proper fix.
Pinto-is short for pint-o-fun.

kerryann

amc49, i know what youre saying.  the mechanical end of this distributor (now that i shaved the registered fit surface that goes into the block down a thousandth or so with emery cloth) works very well and has a nice curve to it.  i could get a factory pickup on ebay for cheap but again not sure if it will "look like the picture".  other option is put the old pickup in.  it angers me my "new"  part doesn't work right but you are right, been through it with starters and countless other parts that are junk out of the box.  now i go to a local american's alternator and starter repair shop at his house and have them rebuilt the right way.

i did inspect this setup when i picked it up but just figured thats the best im going to get (as far as the silicone vs rubber block).  put my trust in the fact that it should be tested and work correctly but i should have known better than to do that.

davis unified ignition makes a very nice factory distributor but at $265 i suppose a new pickup if need be is the way to go here.




amc49

'Mine looks like factory new, almost sounds like they gave you a core........'

Cardone repeat quality part to part is that bad. No two boxes will have same looking quality in them.

I got bit by the blowing off of PCV rubber plug once way back in the day, since then I use PCV hose with a bolt positively hose clamped in place, ugly, but they withstand all backfires...........and to jonz, you don't look to stop backfires with valves, you fix the backfiring issue, not normal for engine to do that. I heard of Holley PVs blowing out left and right but never ran across one in all the years I worked on them, thinking there's a mechanic problem there rather than faulty part. Many people just yank them claiming they're 'blown', I'd simply pick it up and use it in another carb. Worked fine.

amc49

And so common now with everybody taking back thousands of parts that 'don't work'. The vendors constantly shoved numbers in O'Reilly's face showing 80% or some number close of all returns claimed not working or damaged have nothing wrong with them at all.They simply rebox and sell them again.  Rather something wrong with the brain that installed them. I watched it personally hundreds of times. No insult intended here at all of course. Just why every part you see now seems to have been handled previously, it HAS BEEN.

'.........didnt like the way the pickup was wired in, it's not a factory type junction with the rubber block that holds it in the distributor body, its a pile of silicone that has already cracked form moving around.'

In that case shoddy rebuild and just like Cardone who does stuff like that all the time. They know full well there were issues with that harness to pickup going bad when oil mist coming up through dist shaft affects the harness to soften rubber, then it begins to short internally. A big problem. Cardone probably testing pickup, it checks as good while not mishandling it and glue it back down to sell part. Probably a correct part shortage in there somewhere as well.

When I see minor issues like that on rebuilds I commonly fix them to not ever go bad again rather than risk getting an even worse part second time around. That commonly happens. Getting where I do something to fix every part I get now, the rebuild quality has totally gone to crap. If you leave it 'up to them' to get it right then expect issues, the Chinese doing this work do not care. Not even a little bit. I watched people who insisted on 100% correct part buy as many as 5 and then give up, not doable. Sure, you're entitled to a 100% good and correct part, but things today are not what they used to be. I've watched someone with that idea firmly in his head lose his butt completely (alternator clutch issues) like with Ford Motor Co. themselves over quality issues on a brand new car. Often it can be better to take the small screwing rather than make it much much worse. In my view if 80% (there's that number again!) of the rebuild job is right I will fix to guarantee the last 20% myself and then drive a thoroughly reliable part for years until it is dead. It saves me patience, Lord knows I need all of that I can get.

I can pull just about any rebuilt part on the planet out of the box and find issues with it. Now that common. You'd be simply amazed at how many like alternators come out with the field connections not cut short like required, they then short out against outer case to make alt not work right out of the box. With starters they commonly screw any connectors on the bakelite too tight and cracked right out of box. Can't count how many I saw like that. Other issues, bushings that easily fall out with no pressfit as required, the list goes on forever.

74 PintoWagon

I'd take it back, I always open the box before I leave the store just because it says one thing on the box that don't mean the contents is the same, I bought oil filters before and get home and open the box and it's not what it says on the box..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

kerryann

yea it has a warranty so i think im going to try my luck with a new one.  now i know the 16L slot with a bushing will give a good curve.

74 PintoWagon

Mine looks like factory new, almost sounds like they gave you a core, LOL...
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

kerryann

it actually runs well when it does run.  pinging is gone.  im worried that the issue is just in the plug connection.  i know its fine on the box side because i checked the middle socket for power and the test light stays lit not matter which way i contort the wires to try and see if theres a broken wire.

where the three pickup wires go into the side of the distributor there is silicone instead of the formed rubber piece.  the silicone cracked from moving the wires around and you can see a bare copper wire in it.  not sure of they made a connection there and buired it.  either way i have to find where the problem is.

when it stops working the car will just crank with no spark then when it kicks back when you let off the key it sometimes fires and gets a backfire that way.  kind of odd.  74 pintowagon, does your reman have the factory style pickup with that little rubber block around the wires that presses into the distributor or the silicone like mine?

74 PintoWagon

I got the Cardone for mine, works fine just have to change the curve one of these days, maybe next week when I put valve seals in..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.


74 PintoWagon

Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

kerryann

not out of the woods yet.  think we do have a faulty pickup.  it runs good now but if you move the wiring to the distributor around it loses connection.  tried some dielectric grease in the junction but didn't help.  going to return the distributor and try another one.  i really didnt like the way the pickup was wired in, it's not a factory type junction with the rubber block that holds it in the distributor body, its a pile of silicone that has already cracked form moving around.  i could probably put the old pickup in from the old distributor but would be nice to have something new.  hopefully the next one i get has the same curve out of the box.

jonz2pinto

I thought when you changed dist that maybe you knocked loose the pcv and it was running lean.I had one that would not stay hooked up.the hose was too loose from age.I used a zip tie I think to tighten it up.does anybody know of a valve that could be used to let pressure out(and reseat)in case of a cough or backfire.maybe a pcv turned backwards.I know of an aerostar that pops vacuum line off at the firewall.I figured this solution may also help from blowing power valves.
Pinto-is short for pint-o-fun.

D.R.Ball

Why fix something that is not broken. The spark box works and it's still readily available, because they do not fail much. The HEI is not known for their heat resistance any way. The bulk of the duraspark box is a built in heat sink Good catch on the vacuum T missing a cap .

74 PintoWagon

Glad to hear it's running again, 12 and 36 is great..
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

Pinto5.0

Like I said, it's the simple things that tend to trip us up in the worst way.....
'73 Sedan (I'll get to it)
'76 Wagon driver
'80 hatch(Restoring to be my son's 1st car)~Callisto
'71 half hatch (bucket list Pinto)~Ghost
'72 sedan 5.0/T5~Lemon Squeeze

kerryann

after losing some sleep over this and doing some hard thinking i figured out the problem.  I remembered i have a port on the back of the motor on the 2 barrel spacer that i have covered with a vacuum cap.  Sure enough when i approached the thing with a level head this morning it was missing.  it blows off with a backfire, sort of like a blowout protector.  Yesterday in my anger and frustration i didn't notice it shoot off.  found it under the car, put it back on, fired up and in about 30 seconds plugs cleared off and is firing on all cylinders now.  put the gun on it and ended up with 12 initial and 36 total.  motor runs nice now.  havent addressed vacuum advance yet or checked for pinging but i now have a starting point.  Going to get a new set of plugs for sure.

I still may do the HEI swap.  for now though im just happy we're back to normal and with a better ignition curve. 

Now i have to address my brand new valve cover gasket leaking at the front corners, guess i should have used more silicone there.

74 PintoWagon

It's about as easy at it gets, you can put it in the box to hide it and make it look factory(that's what I did with mine)but you can mount it on a bracket and put it wherever you want.

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/ignition-articles/492810-tricky-trick-hei-module-inside-duraspark-case.html
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

kerryann

how do you convert to an hei module?  i read through one of your other threads, looks like you put the gm module in the motorcraft cover.  im not that good with wiring so im not sure how to do that.i have dozens of gm modules and hei distributors.

also the reluctor tooth is very close to the magnetic pickup when the rotor points almost to #1.  like amc49 said, i figured this was because of the initial advance that cause it to line up once running.

74 PintoWagon

What he said, also it has to line up with the cap thus the reason for drilling the cap... The box can be checked but they show failure if any when they get hot they'll actually quit, let them cool down and it'll work again for a while until they quit altogether, that's why I converted to HEI module.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

amc49

Pickup testing.........................put voltmeter across the two parallel terminals (orange and purple IIRC) and ohms reading 400 to 800. The one other terminal is ground (black) and should show zero or close when voltmeter put across the terminal and a good ground, either distributor metal body or engine itself if dist is in motor.

FYI, having the reluctor tip half on and half off the pickup center metal is a 7 1/2 degree timing error by itself. You line them up perfectly, that way you are in the center of the voltage switch, the reluctor corner coming close to pickup edge induces a one way voltage, it then induces the opposite way when doing the same as it moves away passing the pickup. An A/C volt spike there. Two impulses go down the wires a plus and a minus, the box tunes out one of them. The voltage is extremely low and the distributor plug harnesses need to make excellent contact known for sure or issue there. A loose terminal inside the plug will drive you nuts.

amc49

Easiest thing is to swap the ignition module but they can probably check it, they did at O'Reilly. The wire grommet holding wires to box needs to be blue in color and only six wires coming out of module IIRC. No blue colored wire, that would be an early module (seven wires?) that got modded to drop the blue wire. Either can work but the blue wire must be wired correctly, a transient voltage correction deal there.

The pickup has resistance values, it also can be spun by hand out of the car with a volt meter attached to the wires to look for a signal coming out, either DC (single blips) or AC (accumulative blips to make power) as low a range as you can get it. The airgap needs to be close as well, wider results in crap signal that misfires. The gap may not be adjustable on these like others. You can bend slightly the base plate thinking but the two parts must never touch. Closer is definitely better though.

I do not time with the rotor, rather the pickup/reluctor, lining them up perfectly and then checking the rotor position to back that up. The rotor will be slightly wrong since even at idle speeds some advancing will have taken place. You turn the rotor by hand against the spring to get some idea of the amount you are looking for. Disconnect vacuum advance and tune in timing without that on to simplify issues.

kerryann

74 pinto wagon are you talking about initial timing or reluctor phasing?  i know the light will flash if the motor is turned so that the rotor hits plug 1 on the cap.  if there is advance it should flash at whatever degree on the crank pulley it is set at right?

i think there is an actual problem with something here.  it ran before even when retarded a degree or so.  i know i have gotten the timing within the right range many times earlier today.

plugs could be fouled.  i can get another set.  how can i tell if the pickup coil is bad?  also can the motorcraft ignition box go bad?  how can you tell?

74 PintoWagon

Well, yeah you run it to check it with  the advance but not at idle, just to see if the spark lines up you just turn the power on and watch for the light to flash when you rotate the motor a bit.
Art
65 Falcon 2DR 200 IL6 with C4.

amc49

Nope, checked with motor stopped.

The pickup coil could be bad as well.

Once you foul the plugs it won't run right even if timed right. Fouling could occur in as little as 30 seconds if running bad enough, you got that big carb on there.

kerryann

i thought in order to check the phase you need to run the motor?  i can't idle mine at all now and can't hold a steady rpm either.