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Why the Ford Pinto didn’t suck

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suckThe Ford Pinto was born a low-rent, stumpy thing in Dearborn 40 years ago and grew to become one of the most infamous cars in history. The thing is that it didn't actually suck. Really.

Even after four decades, what's the first thing that comes to mind when most people think of the Ford Pinto? Ka-BLAM! The truth is the Pinto was more than that — and this is the story of how the exploding Pinto became a pre-apocalyptic narrative, how the myth was exposed, and why you should race one.

The Pinto was CEO Lee Iacocca's baby, a homegrown answer to the threat of compact-sized economy cars from Japan and Germany, the sales of which had grown significantly throughout the 1960s. Iacocca demanded the Pinto cost under $2,000, and weigh under 2,000 pounds. It was an all-hands-on-deck project, and Ford got it done in 25 months from concept to production.

Building its own small car meant Ford's buyers wouldn't have to hew to the Japanese government's size-tamping regulations; Ford would have the freedom to choose its own exterior dimensions and engine sizes based on market needs (as did Chevy with the Vega and AMC with the Gremlin). And people cold dug it.

When it was unveiled in late 1970 (ominously on September 11), US buyers noted the Pinto's pleasant shape — bringing to mind a certain tailless amphibian — and interior layout hinting at a hipster's sunken living room. Some call it one of the ugliest cars ever made, but like fans of Mischa Barton, Pinto lovers care not what others think. With its strong Kent OHV four (a distant cousin of the Lotus TwinCam), the Pinto could at least keep up with its peers, despite its drum brakes and as long as one looked past its Russian-roulette build quality.

But what of the elephant in the Pinto's room? Yes, the whole blowing-up-on-rear-end-impact thing. It all started a little more than a year after the Pinto's arrival.

 

Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company

On May 28, 1972, Mrs. Lilly Gray and 13-year-old passenger Richard Grimshaw, set out from Anaheim, California toward Barstow in Gray's six-month-old Ford Pinto. Gray had been having trouble with the car since new, returning it to the dealer several times for stalling. After stopping in San Bernardino for gasoline, Gray got back on I-15 and accelerated to around 65 mph. Approaching traffic congestion, she moved from the left lane to the middle lane, where the car suddenly stalled and came to a stop. A 1962 Ford Galaxie, the driver unable to stop or swerve in time, rear-ended the Pinto. The Pinto's gas tank was driven forward, and punctured on the bolts of the differential housing.

As the rear wheel well sections separated from the floor pan, a full tank of fuel sprayed straight into the passenger compartment, which was engulfed in flames. Gray later died from congestive heart failure, a direct result of being nearly incinerated, while Grimshaw was burned severely and left permanently disfigured. Grimshaw and the Gray family sued Ford Motor Company (among others), and after a six-month jury trial, verdicts were returned against Ford Motor Company. Ford did not contest amount of compensatory damages awarded to Grimshaw and the Gray family, and a jury awarded the plaintiffs $125 million, which the judge in the case subsequently reduced to the low seven figures. Other crashes and other lawsuits followed.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Mother Jones and Pinto Madness

In 1977, Mark Dowie, business manager of Mother Jones magazine published an article on the Pinto's "exploding gas tanks." It's the same article in which we first heard the chilling phrase, "How much does Ford think your life is worth?" Dowie had spent days sorting through filing cabinets at the Department of Transportation, examining paperwork Ford had produced as part of a lobbying effort to defeat a federal rear-end collision standard. That's where Dowie uncovered an innocuous-looking memo entitled "Fatalities Associated with Crash-Induced Fuel Leakage and Fires."

The Car Talk blog describes why the memo proved so damning.

In it, Ford's director of auto safety estimated that equipping the Pinto with [an] $11 part would prevent 180 burn deaths, 180 serious burn injuries and 2,100 burned cars, for a total cost of $137 million. Paying out $200,000 per death, $67,000 per injury and $700 per vehicle would cost only $49.15 million.

The government would, in 1978, demand Ford recall the million or so Pintos on the road to deal with the potential for gas-tank punctures. That "smoking gun" memo would become a symbol for corporate callousness and indifference to human life, haunting Ford (and other automakers) for decades. But despite the memo's cold calculations, was Ford characterized fairly as the Kevorkian of automakers?

Perhaps not. In 1991, A Rutgers Law Journal report [PDF] showed the total number of Pinto fires, out of 2 million cars and 10 years of production, stalled at 27. It was no more than any other vehicle, averaged out, and certainly not the thousand or more suggested by Mother Jones.

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

The big rebuttal, and vindication?

But what of the so-called "smoking gun" memo Dowie had unearthed? Surely Ford, and Lee Iacocca himself, were part of a ruthless establishment who didn't care if its customers lived or died, right? Well, not really. Remember that the memo was a lobbying document whose audience was intended to be the NHTSA. The memo didn't refer to Pintos, or even Ford products, specifically, but American cars in general. It also considered rollovers not rear-end collisions. And that chilling assignment of value to a human life? Indeed, it was federal regulators who often considered that startling concept in their own deliberations. The value figure used in Ford's memo was the same one regulators had themselves set forth.

In fact, measured by occupant fatalities per million cars in use during 1975 and 1976, the Pinto's safety record compared favorably to other subcompacts like the AMC Gremlin, Chevy Vega, Toyota Corolla and VW Beetle.

And what of Mother Jones' Dowie? As the Car Talk blog points out, Dowie now calls the Pinto, "a fabulous vehicle that got great gas mileage," if not for that one flaw: The legendary "$11 part."

Why the Ford Pinto didn't suck

Pinto Racing Doesn't Suck

Back in 1974, Car and Driver magazine created a Pinto for racing, an exercise to prove brains and common sense were more important than an unlimited budget and superstar power. As Patrick Bedard wrote in the March, 1975 issue of Car and Driver, "It's a great car to drive, this Pinto," referring to the racer the magazine prepared for the Goodrich Radial Challenge, an IMSA-sanctioned road racing series for small sedans.

Why'd they pick a Pinto over, say, a BMW 2002 or AMC Gremlin? Current owner of the prepped Pinto, Fox Motorsports says it was a matter of comparing the car's frontal area, weight, piston displacement, handling, wheel width, and horsepower to other cars of the day that would meet the entry criteria. (Racers like Jerry Walsh had by then already been fielding Pintos in IMSA's "Baby Grand" class.)

Bedard, along with Ron Nash and company procured a 30,000-mile 1972 Pinto two-door to transform. In addition to safety, chassis and differential mods, the team traded a 200-pound IMSA weight penalty for the power gain of Ford's 2.3-liter engine, which Bedard said "tipped the scales" in the Pinto's favor. But according to Bedard, it sounds like the real advantage was in the turns, thanks to some add-ons from Mssrs. Koni and Bilstein.

"The Pinto's advantage was cornering ability," Bedard wrote. "I don't think there was another car in the B. F. Goodrich series that was quicker through the turns on a dry track. The steering is light and quick, and the suspension is direct and predictable in a way that street cars never can be. It never darts over bumps, the axle is perfectly controlled and the suspension doesn't bottom."

Need more proof of the Pinto's lack of suck? Check out the SCCA Washington, DC region's spec-Pinto series.

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My Somewhat Begrudging Apology To Ford Pinto

ford-pinto.jpg

I never thought I’d offer an apology to the Ford Pinto, but I guess I owe it one.

I had a Pinto in the 1970s. Actually, my wife bought it a few months before we got married. The car became sort of a wedding dowry. So did the remaining 80% of the outstanding auto loan.

During a relatively brief ownership, the Pinto’s repair costs exceeded the original price of the car. It wasn’t a question of if it would fail, but when. And where. Sometimes, it simply wouldn’t start in the driveway. Other times, it would conk out at a busy intersection.

It ranks as the worst car I ever had. That was back when some auto makers made quality something like Job 100, certainly not Job 1.

Despite my bad Pinto experience, I suppose an apology is in order because of a recent blog I wrote. It centered on Toyota’s sudden-acceleration problems. But in discussing those, I invoked the memory of exploding Pintos, perpetuating an inaccuracy.

The widespread allegation was that, due to a design flaw, Pinto fuel tanks could readily blow up in rear-end collisions, setting the car and its occupants afire.

People started calling the Pinto “the barbecue that seats four.” And the lawsuits spread like wild fire.

Responding to my blog, a Ford (“I would very much prefer to keep my name out of print”) manager contacted me to set the record straight.

He says exploding Pintos were a myth that an investigation debunked nearly 20 years ago. He cites Gary Schwartz’ 1991 Rutgers Law Review paper that cut through the wild claims and examined what really happened.

Schwartz methodically determined the actual number of Pinto rear-end explosion deaths was not in the thousands, as commonly thought, but 27.

In 1975-76, the Pinto averaged 310 fatalities a year. But the similar-size Toyota Corolla averaged 313, the VW Beetle 374 and the Datsun 1200/210 came in at 405.

Yes, there were cases such as a Pinto exploding while parked on the shoulder of the road and hit from behind by a speeding pickup truck. But fiery rear-end collisions comprised only 0.6% of all fatalities back then, and the Pinto had a lower death rate in that category than the average compact or subcompact, Schwartz said after crunching the numbers. Nor was there anything about the Pinto’s rear-end design that made it particularly unsafe.

Not content to portray the Pinto as an incendiary device, ABC’s 20/20 decided to really heat things up in a 1978 broadcast containing “startling new developments.” ABC breathlessly reported that, not just Pintos, but fullsize Fords could blow up if hit from behind.

20/20 thereupon aired a video, shot by UCLA researchers, showing a Ford sedan getting rear-ended and bursting into flames. A couple of problems with that video:

One, it was shot 10 years earlier.

Two, the UCLA researchers had openly said in a published report that they intentionally rigged the vehicle with an explosive.

That’s because the test was to determine how a crash fire affected the car’s interior, not to show how easily Fords became fire balls. They said they had to use an accelerant because crash blazes on their own are so rare. They had tried to induce a vehicle fire in a crash without using an igniter, but failed.

ABC failed to mention any of that when correspondent Sylvia Chase reported on “Ford’s secret rear-end crash tests.”

We could forgive ABC for that botched reporting job. After all, it was 32 years ago. But a few weeks ago, ABC, in another one of its rigged auto exposes, showed video of a Toyota apparently accelerating on its own.

Turns out, the “runaway” vehicle had help from an associate professor. He built a gizmo with an on-off switch to provide acceleration on demand. Well, at least ABC didn’t show the Toyota slamming into a wall and bursting into flames.

In my blog, I also mentioned that Ford’s woes got worse in the 1970s with the supposed uncovering of an internal memo by a Ford attorney who allegedly calculated it would cost less to pay off wrongful-death suits than to redesign the Pinto.

It became known as the “Ford Pinto memo,” a smoking gun. But Schwartz looked into that, too. He reported the memo did not pertain to Pintos or any Ford products. Instead, it had to do with American vehicles in general.

It dealt with rollovers, not rear-end crashes. It did not address tort liability at all, let alone advocate it as a cheaper alternative to a redesign. It put a value to human life because federal regulators themselves did so.

The memo was meant for regulators’ eyes only. But it was off to the races after Mother Jones magazine got a hold of a copy and reported what wasn’t the case.

The exploding-Pinto myth lives on, largely because more Americans watch 20/20 than read the Rutgers Law Review. One wonders what people will recollect in 2040 about Toyota’s sudden accelerations, which more and more look like driver error and, in some cases, driver shams.

So I guess I owe the Pinto an apology. But it’s half-hearted, because my Pinto gave me much grief, even though, as the Ford manager notes, “it was a cheap car, built long ago and lots of things have changed, almost all for the better.”

Here goes: If I said anything that offended you, Pinto, I’m sorry. And thanks for not blowing up on me.

How to Turbo a 2.3

Started by fomocolover, April 29, 2011, 12:17:18 AM

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D.R.Ball

Yeah I picked up on of those fans my self. I going to the wrecking yard to pick up a few more odds and ends and then it's time to rework the 8 inch rear end and rebuild the wiring harness . On big question is using the XR4ti harness and the stock A/C system will I have to rewire the A/C or leave it as a stand alone.....The reason is the EEC controlled the A/C on the Merkur and I hope I do not have to try to wire it in.....Or I might have to upgrade to the Merkur set up of which could be pricey....

fomocolover

I went with an electric fan ( 2-speed ) out of a 1999 ford taurus had a regular 4 blade but that didnt cut it.,The taurus fan keeps it at about 195 degrees in the middle of the summer,Yeah you should be fine if your car has factory A/C no need to remove the heater box like i had to.The wiring is a whole nother issue but theres tons of guys that will be here to help if it wasnt for this sight and the great people i dont think i would have ever figured it out,at least your using a merkur harness and computer i hear there alot less complicated than mine was.mine came out of a 1988 Thundird T/C and it took me about a week to figure it out.Anyway need ANY INFO please dont hesitate to ask.....fomocolover
Quote from: D.R.Ball on September 10, 2011, 09:13:45 PM
Fomocolover, are you using the engine fan or an electrical fan to cool things down....I getting the rest of the parts from a 1985 Merkur Xr4ti engine and trans etc ....Also I thing the OEM A/C blower motor is shorter and does not require removal...I will need some info as how to wire things up....

D.R.Ball

Fomocolover, are you using the engine fan or an electrical fan to cool things down....I getting the rest of the parts from a 1985 Merkur Xr4ti engine and trans etc ....Also I thing the OEM A/C blower motor is shorter and does not require removal...I will need some info as how to wire things up....

CRUISEWAGON77

Thanks for the info Fomocolover.  I am planning on figuring out a way to go straight under the hood.  May have to rotate the intake forward, was planning on putting an intercooler in there anyways.  How does your car do with the wide tires and being lowered now?  Do you have any pictures of it? 

My goal is to go sleeper.  Did you bump up the brakes and lug setup on your wagon?
Bought brand new by my Dad, 36yr OLD STOCK WAGON.  CAME AS YOU SEE IT, soon to have some bolt on goodies.

fomocolover

Well from what I understand you can slot the mounts that go to the block or have the intake or plenum milled ive heard alot of them will clear with no mods...But not mine...... when i was installing it i knew it would be close.I was going for the sleeper look at first also but I was burning up the 13 in and 14 in tires ( no traction at all )I got these rims and tires for a smokin deal 295/50/15 rears / 215/60/15 front on centerline convo pro rims its hooks up great now.it isnt a sleeper anymore...the tires from the rear also look pretty awesome so i figured what the hey lets let them know what there dealing with.Ive since lowered the hood backdown and installed a 2001 Mustang GT hood scoop i cut a hole in the hood and made the scoop functional ive also noticed my water temp went down about 15 degree's,Turbos create alot of heat and theres really no where for it to go in the tight engine bay.Hope this helps,,,,are you going to Turbo your wagon ?.Its a pain in the butt but well worth it your C/W looks awesome i cant believe youve had it for all these years.......Lyn

CRUISEWAGON77

Just out of curiosity, I noticed in the pictures of your car that the rear of the hood was lifted.  How have other guys done this swap without raising the hood.  I would like to keep mine real stock looking.  Thanks!

Bought brand new by my Dad, 36yr OLD STOCK WAGON.  CAME AS YOU SEE IT, soon to have some bolt on goodies.

don33

lookin good, Awesome kill story, I'll bet the guy in the Camaro is still scratching his head trying to figure that one out. He probably made his buddy swear to never tell anyone he got beat by a pinto, cant wait to get mine running. I see you pulled the stock heater motor.  I did the same, I'm thinking about replacing it with an aftermarket heater sold by Speedway motors. it mounts where the stock heater resided but does not have a heater motor that protrudes thru the firewall...

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flex-a-lite-Mojave-Universal-Heater,304.html

fomocolover

1978 ford pinto cruising wagon
88 T/C 2.3 Turbo / T5 Trans / 8 Inch rear / all stock

Got my first victim on friday it was a 2011 chevy camaro he and his buddy's were laughing at the old girl , he actually requested a grudge match.... ( MISTAKE ) i pulled him by 1 1/2 car lenghts at the lights.. Poor guy never did see him or his buddys again......LOL.....i loved it....... This winter i will take her apart and get her all prettied up .....but for now im just enjoying the ride

fomocolover

PICS

fomocolover

I must say this sight is the s#!t i cant believe how you guys have made my project as painless as possible ( not that it hasnt had its challenges ) i really dont think i could have done it without all the great info and insight from this wonderfull sight and its people.......Anyway just wanted to Thank everyone....Ok got the correct u-joint ( NAPA Part # ruj-372 ) today, going to go get the 8 inch rear tommorow i dont think it will be an issue putting it in as far as i can tell it should be a direct bolt in...Man im getting excited.....Its getting closer to being done as far as the drivetrain is concerned what a journey its been He,He,He.... Gotta love the Classics ....Thanks again guys...Lyn

P.S. Dan33,looking foreward to reading your post on your progress on the 1980 Pinto conversion

don33

hey that's great, I was pretty sure the summit pump was not up to the task. I don't think I can help you to much on the mustang II axle swap.  as for gauges, your going to want a wideband AFR gauge, a boost gauge and a fuel pressure gauge. the wideband I would recommend is this one .....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AVM-30-4100/

Pretty much, as long as you keep your AFR correct, your motor and you will be happy.   the other gauges just need to be quality gauges such as Autogauge, autometer etc.
those three gauges will tell you pretty much all you need to know about whats going on with your engine.  they will keep you from causing any harm to your engine.  and if you ever do any upgrading on your engine they become even more important.    well, keep us updated with your progress.

oldkayaker

Below are some more of Bill's threads on the swap including the driveshaft and U-joint info.  Not having done the swap, I would rather not interrupt the threads.
http://www.fordpinto.com/pinto-faq/turbo-coupesvo-engine-swap/
http://www.turbopinto.com/index.php?topic=852.0
http://forum.turboford.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=040352
Jerry J - Jupiter, Florida

fomocolover

First off Thanks for all the great help and info from this sight !!!!.It is truly a wealth of info,I got the Walbro 255lph fuel pump hooked up and now she runs like a champ,You were right Don it was way under for the fuel pressure.The Walbro was the right decision and it was about the same money as the Summit pump,Anyway now im ready to install the MII 8 inch rearend i now ive asked this before but what U-joint am I going to need i know its smaller on the Diff end, the driveline came out of a 87 Stang / 88TC t5 input yoke  / 78 MII 8 Inch rearend / a member sent me a link on the u-joint but i cant seem to locate it,ive searched the sight and cant really find the info that im looking for,,,Does any one have a part number for this U-joint i know ford motorsport makes one but i cant find that info either............any help would be helpfull thanks again to all my pinto lovers out there...  :hypno: Lyn

baflinn

fomocolover - since you're running a boosted engine now I would seriously recommend getting some engine management gauges installed in you car. This will give you valuable information on whether you are running a rich or even worse a lean situation which sounds like maybe you are with your current fuel pump.

I would hate to hear that after all your hard work you melted a piston or two because you ran lean under hard acceleration.

Here is a thread on TurboFord that talks about the different sensors you may want to look into getting:
http://forum.turboford.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=16;t=003456#000000

Good luck and sounds like an awesome setup.
Liquidating all Pinto related parts.

Current list can be found here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/bruceflinn/8007178278/in/photostream

don33

you should be using a regulator allready, I assume your using the stock regulator on the fuel rail. the stock unit is very good and if you dont want to ever play with fuel pressure it will serve you well.   the aftermarket regulator of choice is the Kirban regulator.  oh, and gereraly speaking, theres nothing better for these motors than stock motorcraft parts.

http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?initemuid=147&fcmd=item&inmake=0

Don.

fomocolover

Thanks Don,Im not sure how to convert from Litres to Gallons.I read some stuff that said the Walbro pumps 35 Gallons per hour and my Summit pump,pumps 43 Gallons per hour im wondering if its my cheap spark plug wires im using i found some stock motorcrafts on ebay but they havent got here yet...Also if i change to the walbro will i have to use a Fuel Regulater ??? 80 PSI is alot of pressure.....Thanks for all the help,Lyn

don33

Lyn, I'm not really sure about that pump your using, I don't believe it is adequate.  convert gph to lph, I think it comes up short. I use the Walbro 255 lph, your right it is the pump of choice.

have you registered at    http://www.turboford.org/index.HTML     yet ? I would highly recommend it. all your questions can be answered there. they are a 2.3 turbo oriented site. there are a lot of very knowledgeable people there who are willing to help.

Don.

fomocolover

Got a quick qeustion for any turbo pros it seems that the fuel pump of choice for this swap is the walboro 255 lph at 80psi,im using a summit #sum-g3138 it has a free flow rate of 43gph (258lbs./hr. ) at 40 psi is this pump atiquate for this application,the car runs great at idle and normal driving but under hard exceleration it tends to stutter and hesitate and the turbo doesnt seem to kick in all the time it will grab and then fall on its face...any suggestions ?.....thanks in advance this sight has been a huge source of info.....Lyn

don33

fomocolover, I see you picked the 87/88 bird for your doner car, that tells me you love a challenge.  they are the most complicated, all kinds of unneeded wiring, ETC.  anyway you got it going.

old kayaker came up with some solutions for the heater...

Also there is a wealth of information on the 2.3 turbo motor/cars  over on
http://www.turboford.org/index.shtml

don33

thats great oldkayaker, I knew there had to be away to do this, other than, remove heater.

oldkayaker

On the heater motor to sensor interference, some of the solutions read about:
1)Wittsend used a shorter MG motor.
http://www.fordpinto.com/general-help/87-turbocoupe-engine-into-74-pinto/msg91208/#msg91208
2) Use a heater box that came with factory A/C which locates the motor in side the car.
3) Relocate sensor, engine, etc.
Jerry J - Jupiter, Florida

don33

Well, I just pulled the old NA 2.3 out today. I've got to tow it down to the car wash or rent a pressure washer and do some serious cleaning now.  I have two complete wiring harnesses, one out of a 86 Turbo coupe and one out of a Merkur XR4Ti. so as you can tell I am just getting started...   OH and let me make this Bold statement.......A 4 cyl Turbo pinto will allways beat a V8 pinto...! there's several reasons for this, I won't go into them now, but the nonbelievers should just accept this and go on with life.  I used to race 2.3's in ministock also, I had a 1976 Mercury Capri .  it can be frustrating at times until you get the bugs worked out, but the results are very rewarding.  I will keep a eye on this post, I really need my heater. I'm sure I'll have a few questions so stay tuned.

Don.

fomocolover

Im with you don33 im going to retain my heater also i had my heater box in when i installed my Turbo motor but found clearance issues,my o2 sensor actually was hitting my heater motor.So i went ahead and removed the heater box im going to try and research one that will fit it needs to be about 2 inch's shorter its summer so i figured id just pull the whole thing and worry about it later.But as soon as i find the ONE i will post it here.How far along are you ?.Have you got to the wiring yet ?.I'll tell you at first i was thinking what the hell did i get myself into.But after driving it yesterday im very pleased with the results,This baby pulls like no other 2.3 4cyl. ive ever drove and i used to race 2.3's in a mini stock class,ive also put V8's in pintos and this car would kick the crap out of them..Very frustrateing sometimes but well worth the swap,I still have a couple of bugs to work out but shes up and running.....anymore question dont hesitate to ask...Lyn

don33

Are you able to save/retain the heater motor ? Looking at mine ,I know it looks pretty tight . but I really want my heater.

oldkayaker

The diagram on the BlindChickenRa cing.com site has several ommisions/errors when used with the 88TC.  Suspect it may have been made for an earlier set up.  Suggest you get the "electrical & vacuum trouble-shooting manual" (EVTM) for both your 78 Pinto and the 88TC.  Ebay is usually the easiest source for these.  Using the "integrated controller module" (group of relays) form the TC88 may be good until you get things sorted out.  These two links show the differences between the years (accuracy not checked).
http://rothfam.com/svo/reference/PEtoLA.pdf
http://www.gt350mustang.com/eecspecsturbo.htm

I would use the TC coil since it was designed for that system.  I do not know if there is a electrical difference.

77turbopinto has an answer for the U-joint in this thread.
http://www.fordpinto.com/general-help/t5-install/msg40867/#msg40867

Have fun with the swap.

Jerry J - Jupiter, Florida

fomocolover

Also before i forget, should i use the Pinto coil or the 88 TC coil ?,how can i mount the intercooler to fit under the hood without cutting the hood ?,Does anyone know what U-joint i should get it appears the end that goes to the 3rd member is smaller that the 89 mustang driveline one im using............

fomocolover

Ok,After further review i tested the T/C computer and realized i wasnt getting power to // Red key on: pin #37 & #57 i hot wired the 2 it still wouldnt START,after getting frustrated i took a break.....TICK TOCK TICK TOCK.....with a fresh attitude grrrrrr,,,i started checking wires i took the red/green wire that runs from the distributor wired it to the r/g wire on the coil took the Pinto r/g wire that runs from the car ( not the TC computer )wired the black and green  from the coil into the wiring that runs to the distributor and WALLA SHE FIRED RIGHT UP.....WHOOO....HOOOO......anyway is it safe to keep it wired like this ?

Thanks,Lyn

fomocolover

PLEASE HELP.....NO SPARK....Ok got everything done from the driveline to the radiator,Ive been tring to tackle the wiring,But i got no spark from the coil,I changed the Pinto Coil to the TC one and still nothin,I disconected the Pinto Computer,Dist,coil,Ect.Do i need thethe stock Pinto computer hooked up ?.what a pain...Im about ready to go nuts been working on this car for an entire week I thought i had the wiring figured out seemed pretty straght foreward i used the diagram from Racing Chicken dot com.Im getting power to the computer everything is grounded ,kept all the wires that were listed hooked up but it wont start,No fuel pump yet but shouldnt it still start with starting fluid ???.Any help would be great...Thanks.Lyn

Bigtimmay

Gonna be easier to just use the cable for the clutch and to do that you either need a rare D9 (came on the 79-80 carbed turbo cars) bell or just get one from a 87-93 4cylinder stang.  I was lucky enough to find a D9 bell when i started my swap.

You can reinstall the vbelt setup or do what i did and use a pinto/ranger alt bracket and i still have the serpentine but no power steering or a/c.

The input shaft if your talking about the big ring that goes around it held on by rubber.  Its just a vibration damper but i removed mine and it doesn't vibrate any more or less then it did with it. SO its pretty good to say its pointless, plus I'm not the only one to remove it.
1978 Mercury Bobcat 2.3t swapped.Always needs more parts!

fomocolover

Thanks,You are the Man...The Pinto Man that is...Ok changed the oil pan,Pick up tube,Relocated the dipstick and plug as suggested,Worked out very nice and easy.Installed the Pinto mounts on the TC engine.Installed the engine and T5 into the Pinto tonight.I cut the battery tray out ( Rusty anyway ) removed the heater box so there was no clearance issues with the Turbo hitting the heater motor or battery tray.everything looks good,I took and precut the hole were the shifter comes through about 2 inch's so the new T5 shifter would clear,i took the stock Pinto crossmember and drilled 1 hole in the back of the crossmember from the Pinto and used the stock rubber trans mount from the TC it looks good.BUT i need to know how i hook up the clutch cable should i try and fab the Hydraulic set up from the TC or is there an easy way to go with the cable setup that came stock on the Pinto ?.Also the input shaft on the back of the trans is huge and heavy is there a better one i can use ?.or do i have to use this one for balance purposes ?.Also on the pulley setup on the front of the engine the Pinto had a V-belt setup but the TC has a serpintine setup,My Pinto doesnt have A/C or Power steering.The only option my Pinto CW had was Power Brakes....My question is can i go ahead and reinstall the V-belt setup that came stock on the Pinto originally ( Alt,crank pully,water pump,4 blade fan, ( 2 core radiator from a 1980 pinto with ac ) I think i have most of this figured out except for these things im sure i'll need more info as i go along.......Thanks again you have been a Huge Help...Lyn