I was checking all the lights and they all seem to work except...
the front turn signals ???
with brakes on.. both rear work and fronts don't
no brakes.. both rear work and fronts don't
car isn't running when testing..
all marker lights work - head lights work - licence plate light works
nothing dims when checking any of the configurations of lights on/off..
everything works perfect except the front turn signal lights
I checked the 2 grounds right behind the front turn signals..
cleaned with a small wire wheel and made sure all is good..
still nothing... any ideas... flasher unit ???
hmm... sounds like a wiring problem I had with the 78 hatchback I used to have. The flasher wouldn't cause that as it is basically just a relay to turn the signal lights on & off. If the rears are working but the fronts aren't then the flasher is ok. Do your front parking lights work?
Quote from: r4pinto on April 07, 2008, 11:25:01 PM
The flasher wouldn't cause that as it is basically just a relay to turn the signal lights on & off. If the rears are working but the fronts aren't then the flasher is ok.
that's what I thought...
Quote from: r4pinto on April 07, 2008, 11:25:01 PM
Do your front parking lights work?
yep... everything works except the front turn signals... no flash or blinky blinky
hmmmm. sounds like it could be a wiring problem. I'd say to start by removing the bulbs & with the signals on check to see if there is any power when the signals are on. You could use a meter, but the light will actually show the blinking. The wiring diagram for the lighting in the manual is actually pretty good from what I remembered as it got the lights on the 78 working. It was so long ago I don't remember much about it, but I do remember it had some burned up wiring.
??? Aren't the bulbs 2- filament ? 1 for parking light and one for blinker..
Quote from: dangerusdug on April 07, 2008, 11:47:41 PM
??? Aren't the bulbs 2- filament ? 1 for parking light and one for blinker..
I would think so... be silly if it turned out they were ? both ? bad at the same time...
Stranger things have happened, like freak snow storms..
well... I don't have to feel stupid... I checked and both bulbs are in good shape and I used the test light...
I have constant power with parking lights on but still no blinky blinky with the turn signals ???
There is a connector at the base of the steering column from the turn signal switch. Could be a loose connection there. Also check the wires there for blinky blinky with your test light. White w/ light blue stripe right turn, light green w/ white stripe left turn. If nothing there, suspect turn signal switch.
Quote from: 71 pintoracer on April 08, 2008, 05:17:16 PM
There is a connector at the base of the steering column from the turn signal switch. Could be a loose connection there. Also check the wires there for blinky blinky with your test light. White w/ light blue stripe right turn, light green w/ white stripe left turn. If nothing there, suspect turn signal switch.
Ooooo.... That gives me something to check. Thanks!
I had a similar issue with my Crusing Wagon however it was only the pass side that would not blink. The parking lights worked just fine. It ended up being the the socket. Wiggling the wires that go into the socket while the blinkers were on got it to work but the connection was intermittant. I installed a NOS bulb socket and the problem went away. Also, check to make sure the sockets that plug into the main wiring harness are in good shape.
Quote from: 71 pintoracer on April 08, 2008, 05:17:16 PM
There is a connector at the base of the steering column from the turn signal switch. Could be a loose connection there. Also check the wires there for blinky blinky with your test light. White w/ light blue stripe right turn, light green w/ white stripe left turn. If nothing there, suspect turn signal switch.
OK so here's what I found out... I did find a White w/ light blue stripe wire and a light green w/ white stripe on the back right side of the connector pictured below. with the key forward and blinkers on = nothing - no blinky blinky
So I checked the ones in the front and found...
white with red (candy cane) stripe is on and dimm all the time with the key on
solid light blue that blinks with both right and left
blue with red stripe = blinks right
green with orange stripe = blinks left
Also... below the front parking light bulb there is a connector so I tested the wires going to it and with the parking lights one lights up and the other is dead - even with the blinker on
so... does this mean... turn signal switch???
What I would recommend is to disconnect the turn signal switch. Next check the color of the wires at the connector for the light plug and check for continuity from point a (a being the plug that the turn signal switch plugs into) to point b ( b being the under hood connector where you disconnected the light socket plug. Also check for any signs of corrosion or burned insulation on the wiring. If you have a corroded plug that could cause that and if you have burned wiring insulation it's possible you have a burned wire that could cause the lights not to go blinky blinky.
Thanks Matt, from what I can tell the wiring is in good shape. I will have to look closer to see any burned wires. I don't have the tools required to do the continuity test as suggested but will see what I can come up with.
Question... is there any way to test the turn signal switch? other than what I have already done..
OK... I stopped and talked to my local mechanic this morning, showed him this post and we talked. He thinks it's the turn signal switch in the column and suggested replacement.
2 new ones have been found thru local sources a cheap one for $59 and a better one for $105 = ARGG!!
he told me if he get's the cheap one and installs for me total cost would be around $130 (I forget exact)
don't want to spend any more money than I have to so... off to the parts wanted section...
and how hard is this to replace if I decide to try it myself?
Simple to replace. But first do this: make a fused jumper wire (5amp fuse) and put 12 volts to your signal light wire. If it lights up you have eliminated everything from the switch out to the light. Unplug switch, put 12V to white/light blue for right, light green/white for left.
To replace switch,
1. remove horn pad
2. remove steering wheel nut
3. mark wheel to shaft location, some are already marked, this is so you get the wheel back on straight. I dont remember if yours has a blind spline, the early ones dont.
Just take a punch and put a dot on the shaft and on the hub
4. remove wheel
5. remove plastic cover around column
6. remove signal lever
7. remove screws holding switch. I think 2, maybe 3
8. unplug switch
9. this part is a little tricky but not bad, I dont think the plastic hardshell connector will come up thru the opening in the column, draw a diagram of the connector and label where the wires go in the connector. looking in the end where the terminals poke thru, there is a small plastic locking tab that locks the wire into the connector. Take a small pocket screwdriver or a pick and pry the tab back a little and pull the wire out. when you get them all out, wrap a piece of tape around them and pull them up thru the column. When you put the new switch back in, you may need to run a piece of mechanics wire down thru the hole and attach the wiring to it and pull it thru. Then push the wires back in the connector per your diagram and make sure they lock in place.
10. reverse the previous steps and you're good to go! ;D
Many Thanks 71 Pintoracer,
Quote from: 71 pintoracer on April 09, 2008, 12:46:45 PM
But first do this: make a fused jumper wire (5amp fuse) and put 12 volts to your signal light wire. If it lights up you have eliminated everything from the switch out to the light. Unplug switch, put 12V to white/light blue for right, light green/white for left.
I'm pretty sure I understand how to do this and agree it's important to test this to make sure that the switch is what is required. I would guess if a wire is grounded/bad it would cause it not to show the "blinky blinky" where I was testing the switch.
Quote from: 71 pintoracer on April 09, 2008, 12:46:45 PM
9. this part is a little tricky but not bad, I dont think the plastic hardshell connector will come up thru the opening in the column, draw a diagram of the connector and label where the wires go in the connector. looking in the end where the terminals poke thru, there is a small plastic locking tab that locks the wire into the connector. Take a small pocket screwdriver or a pick and pry the tab back a little and pull the wire out. when you get them all out, wrap a piece of tape around them and pull them up thru the column. When you put the new switch back in, you may need to run a piece of mechanics wire down thru the hole and attach the wiring to it and pull it thru. Then push the wires back in the connector per your diagram and make sure they lock in place.
10. reverse the previous steps and you're good to go! ;D
I don't like this part = pia but this I could do if required.
I have a new question though.... If I were to get a new or used switch could I unplug the current switch and plug in the new one without mounting in place just to test. I would guess I would have to make sure it's grounded while testing but could this be done before I install just to make sure it works. Would be a helpfull way too test if I get a used switch...
That is what I would do, nothing needs to be grounded, just plug it in.
Excellent!!! I got a plan ;D
Many, Many Thanks
Quote from: 71 pintoracer on April 09, 2008, 12:46:45 PM
But first do this: make a fused jumper wire (5amp fuse) and put 12 volts to your signal light wire. If it lights up you have eliminated everything from the switch out to the light. Unplug switch, put 12V to white/light blue for right, light green/white for left.
Done! I did as suggested and unplugged the switch. Put power to the wires and the lights work.
Looks like I need a switch.
Many Thanks! to all with replys and 71 Pintoracer you are the man!
Glad to help! If you run into any snags just holler, its really not that bad of a job. Thats the beauty of a Pinto, they are simple to work on.