Hello group,
Getting ready for a show tomorrow I washed and waxed my all original Green Pinto.
The Pinto I had at Carlisle and Tulsa..
Well for NO reason the engine developed a Knock today about 6pm?
Again there is NO reason for the knock so I am confused It was running perfectly fine at 5:30.
The oil was about a quart low but I got no light??
Anyway I'm done for tonight I hope to have the NEW engine in & ready for the show by tomorrow at 3:00 or I will only have 2 Pintos at the show... This Pinto has been there 5 years in a row...
I'll let you guys know what I found on sunday after the show...From Pintony
That sucks. Are you going to repair the original engine and put it back in eventually?
Hey Tigger,
Yes my Plan is to re-build the original block and head to factory spec. except for a -.010 head shave to bring the C.R. up a bit.
I will also have hardend exhaust seats installed so I do not have to buy leaded racing fuel to blend with un-leaded to keep the valves happy...
I just hope everything goes smooth tomorrow so I do not have to leave this Pinto behind...
I have a Hot Rod 2.0 on the engine stand.
I will be installing the engine that I took out of the Purple Pinto.
It is a High comp block + cam an oversize valves.
I hope the cam is not too big for the automatic...
I would just install a NEW crank... I have several already ground 10-10 and bearings on hand. BUT I need to flush the engine oil gallerys as I found junk in the pan,
Anyway wish me luck!
From Pintony
Good Luck, I am sure you will git r done 8)
Hello Group,
Here is the fresh clean engine bay from my Green 72 Pinto.
I'll pick up my block from the machine shop on thursday with a fresh hone on the cylinders. "They were only .001 out." and a fresh deck on the block...
Once home I will install NEW rings and bearings and all NEW gaskets and seals.
I will drop my Cylinder head at the same time I pick up my block for a fresh deck and a good cleaning.
I hope to have the engine painted and ready to install B4 the snow flys so it will be ready for the spring show season.
I'll keep you guys posted with photos and my progress..
From Pintony
hELLO gROUP,
hERE i HAVE REMOVED THE ROCKERS FROM MY 2.0 HEAD SO ALL THE VALVES WOULD BE CLOSED.
i FILLED THE CUMBUSTION CHAMBERS WITH BRAKE FLUID.
AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE PHOTO ALL BUT #2 CYLINDER HAVE A leak at the exhaust valve. The valve seats will also get some attention as will the valves.
The intake valves seem to be holding back the brake fluid.
From Pintony
The engine compartment looks darn nice! Interesting trick with the brake fluid. I will have to remember that one ;D One up for Pintony.
Thanks Tigger,
I have most of the parts cleaned and ready for primer and paint.
I am real anxious to see how the Green Pinto runs after this...
Hopefully real peppy! :fastcar:
I having -.010 taken off the block and -.010 off the head so I should be up to a good 9.0 CR when I'm done.
I will also do a tranny flush, filter,& gasket while I have the Pinto down for repair.
I want to take the Mustard Pinto and the Green Pinto to the strip and race them.
Everyone in St louis will be talking about it for weeks....
From Pintony
take a grinder to the valve pockets while you have it off
Quote from: srt on October 09, 2007, 05:16:28 AM
take a grinder to the valve pockets while you have it off
Hello SRT,
This engine is for my all original Green Pinto...
I am running the stock intake and exhaust manifold. in an Automatic transmission car. To do any porting on the head would hurt performance.
The engine ran good B4 the head gasket blew so now that the bore is fresh and the valves will have fresh seats it should run better than ever..
I am hoping to get the best running "STOCK" 2.0 I can have for reliability.
the only change I am making is to the CR, as I think that 8:0 to 1 is too low.
The 1971 2.0 was rated at 100HP and 9.0 to 1 CR. I am looking to get my CR up a bit and that 100HP would be fine with me....
That 100 is at the engine not the rear tires so YES it will still be slow.... :police:
From Pintony
Hello Group,
Here is a photo of my Green Pinto's 2.0 block just back from a fresh hone and a -.010 deck.
Everything checked out OK. New freeze plugs are also installed.
I picked up my engine block today as a present to myself...
The top of the block was out by .008 so the -.010 just took care of the shade tree IDIOT that replaced the head gasket.
From Pintony
Hey Tony
Did you find the knock.
I prefer to deck a block than a head for compression...I take as little as possible off the head...
Paint it pretty Tony...
Frank
Quote from: earthquake on October 15, 2007, 12:27:43 PM
Hey Tony
Did you find the knock.
Hello earthquake,
The only thing I found was a head gasket blown.
SO FAR... everything else has checked out OK.
AGAIN I have not re-assenbled the block to know how the bearings will check out.
I will keep everyone posted as I do the rebuild.
From Pintony
Did it blow between 2 cylinders.That will knock like crazy.
Hey earthquake,
I had another subject line "Well there's your problem"
I bumped it for U.
From Pintony
I think the knock is the rocks in Tony's head rattling at high speed!
You may be incorrect here Dave...That would be a Knod Rock. :read:
High_Horse
Quote from: Pintony on October 09, 2007, 08:03:29 PM
Hello SRT,
This engine is for my all original Green Pinto...
I am running the stock intake and exhaust manifold. in an Automatic transmission car. To do any porting on the head would hurt performance.
The engine ran good B4 the head gasket blew so now that the bore is fresh and the valves will have fresh seats it should run better than ever..
I am hoping to get the best running "STOCK" 2.0 I can have for reliability.
the only change I am making is to the CR, as I think that 8:0 to 1 is too low.
The 1971 2.0 was rated at 100HP and 9.0 to 1 CR. I am looking to get my CR up a bit and that 100HP would be fine with me....
That 100 is at the engine not the rear tires so YES it will still be slow.... :police:
From Pintony
tony i don't think it will hurt at all. especially if you concentrate on the pocket under the exhaust valve. you're eliminating a restriction which will flow more volume through the port into the manifold with out losing the velocity of the exhaust gas charge. throttle response will improve as will power and mileage (if you make a concerted effort to drive for mileage)
i did pretty much the same on my girlfriends '72 back in '72. ( cut the head, recurved dist) her car had the automatic (with the 'right-off-idle stall speed convertor) and a 3:18 rear gear and it really woke up that car.
Hello Group,
I forgot my phone today and when I got home I had a message from the machine shop had called about my 2.0 cylinder head.
I hope it is not BAD news like a Crack or something. :angel: :'(
I'll call in the morn and find out...
From Pintony
OK! First the good news...
The head is NOT cracked...
The bad news... The exhaust guides R shot and I have to have hardened seats installed on the exhaust valves
So it will be another week or so B4 I get my engine put back together...
From Pintony
Quote from: Pintony on October 19, 2007, 01:41:45 AM
I have to have hardened seats installed on the exhaust valves
Just one of those cases of "you might as well"...
I am sure it'll be much nicer not having to add the lead additive every gas up.
Good luck Pintony!
--Doug
Thanks Doug!
Funny thing is,,, this engine already had oversize valve stems installed and it only has 53,000 miles.
3 cylinders were only out by .001 and 1 was out by .002
A bone-head machine shop must have reamed for bigger valve stems and BOTCHED the job???
Thus resulting in the exhaust seats being beat-out beyond repair.
From Pintony
QuoteFunny thing is,,, this engine already had oversize valve stems installed and it only has 53,000 miles.
That might explain the breeched head gasket. The one that failed in my car was a Felpro. The plot thickens.
High_Horse
Hello Group,
Finally got some time to start the build on my Green Pinto 2.0.
Here I have the crank in the block along with the rear seal.
I am re-using the old bearings as this engine only has 53,000 miles.
All the main bearings were between .0015 and .00175 all the way across the bearing surface,
I plasti-gage-ed all the main bearing and all the rod bearings.
From Pintony
After assemblly of the block and crank, I cleaned up the old Pistons.
Here I am using a ring grove cleaner.
As the piston rings wear... Carbon fills the gap behind the ring.
IF this step is not done the NEW rings will not fit in the lands and it will be REAL HARD to get the pistons back in the hole.
Since this engine has only seen light-duity the buildup in the grooves were not bad at all.
From Pintony
Here is the B4 and after photo of the pistons after I finished cleaning them.
The assembly is looking good.
Just wanted to make sure you were aware that the 2.0L crank thrust bearings can be installed backwards. Unfortunately this engine is not made idiot proof here and sure enough I got one in backwards and ruined my crank.
Quote from: oldkayaker on October 28, 2007, 07:21:55 AM
The assembly is looking good.
Just wanted to make sure you were aware that the 2.0L crank thrust bearings can be installed backwards. Unfortunately this engine is not made idiot proof here and sure enough I got one in backwards and ruined my crank.
Hello oldkayaker,
Hey!!! That is GREAT advice!!!!
You are 100% correct. The thrust bearing has to be checked carefully.
I can see how installing the block side could easily be installed backwards and ruin your whole month.
GREAT TIP!!!!
I think a 1-UP is in order! :D
From Pintony
I got thr 2.0 head for my Green Pinto back today..
Kinda Shiney!!!!
Can't wait to get this engine back together and do a BIG smokey BURNOUT!!!! ;D
Looks good....nothing like a fresh head. Thumbs up.
High_Horse
The Green Pinto always had an oil leak that I could not track down..
This photo is the PVC canister-oil separator.
I found a leak in the area where you can see the bulge.
I'll try to get some solder in that crack before I install.
I found my torq-wrench FINALLY after 2 day of searching so I torqued the rod bolts to 33 and the mains to 75ft.lbs. The oil Pump I torqued to 25ft.;lbs.
I got the oil pan installed + the water pump.
A little masking an I'm ready for primer & paint
Ok, so I got the Rollin in my Pinto's engine primed painted and got the head torqued in place + the cam installed and the rocker lash set.
The Member Pinto1600 works for Mac's Restoration, he sent me some
"Cast Blast" high temp coating for my exhaust manifold.
WOW that stuff looks GREAT!!!!!
From Pintony
P.S. I wonder if the head really had paint on it from the factory or not???
That is a good question Pintony. I know you want to replicate as closely as possible the originality of the car but after all that work would not a little longivity in prettiness be in order. I have some stainlless steel paint that I thought looked fairly metalic when applied. Shoot me your address and I will send you a couple of cans. ;D
High_Horse
Quote from: High_Horse on November 12, 2007, 09:25:10 AM
That is a good question Pintony. I know you want to replicate as closely as possible the originality of the car but after all that work would not a little longivity in prettiness be in order. I have some stainlless steel paint that I thought looked fairly metalic when applied. Shoot me your address and I will send you a couple of cans. ;D
High_Horse
Hello HH,
Thank you for your offer...
But if the head was painted it most likely was black.
From Pintony
Hi Tony
JB Weld on your PVC canister-oil separator might work also.
Quote from: Boss2300 on November 12, 2007, 07:31:50 PM
Hi Tony
JB Weld on your PVC canister-oil separator might work also.
Hey Dennis,
I used acid core solder and map gas to solder-up the leak.
In fact I soldered up the entire unit.
I can now get suction to hold on the breather. :)
From Pintony
Hello Group,
Finally got some good weather to get parts painted so I could start the re-install of my Green Rollin-in-my-Pinto's Engine.
Here is a photo or two...
From Pintony
One more...
Very Purdy Pintony....Your an artist.
High_Horse
Pintony,
REALLY NICE......and that Pinto has earned it's STAR Treatment. It needs it's own Trailer...Makeup?..Wardrobe?? "Mr. Demille" !!!
One question...Where can I get one of those Early American Arts and Crafts Movement Hydrocarbon Free Release Valve Covers????? :hypno:
Thanks HH!!
71HANTO, I am trying to duplicate EXACTLY what Ford did. Even the locations of the different color markings. I'm using my 28,000 mile 71 for referance.
Using all NOS or reproduction items. The heat shiels is the wrong color for 72. it is supposed to be Blue, so I will rectify that.
Every bolt is being painted to match what ford did in color the bolts that did not have color I am using clear coat to keep them looking fresh.
When finished I am hoping for the WOW! affect from show attendees...
This process is taking much longer thaI expected. Hopefully it wil be worth all the time spent making everything perfect.
Will keep you guys posted as to my progress.
If you look closely there are fuel stains on the carb. Must need a top gasket???
Glad you guys like it!!!
From Pintony
P.S. Notice I used the FACTORY bracket to hold the head pipe in place as well as the ORIGINAL double hump exhaust clamp.
Factory = NOS
Original = Reconditioned factory installed
The Green Pinto still has the ORIGINAL 1 piece exhaust system.
Here are some of the parts I have ready to bolt on.
From Pintony
NICE job. Let me tell you it is harder to restore a car to original than it is to hot rod one. I have been there. Hot rodding is EZ. Buy the right combo of parts & put them together. To restore one with the correct factory paint & coatings & markings takes a lot of research. Looks like you did your research. Way to go Tony.
Boss2300
Thanks Dennis!
How is your project coming?
From Pintony
Well i am way behind on my projects. It has been a busy winter with work (hospital) & family stuff going on & when i get a little time i seem to end up helping my buddies with there projects. I have to get moving soon on my own stuff.
QuoteWhe re can I get one of those Early American Arts and Crafts Movement Hydrocarbon Free Release Valve Covers?
Say that fast five times... ;D
High_Horse
Hello Group,
I have my air cleaner lid & rocker cover blasted and scrubed up with soapy water and heat dried to remove any water dropplets.
Ready for prime coat
I got the lid a bit HOT!!! ;D
From Pintony
I put my stuff in the oven and set it to 160 degrees then I paint at about 70 degrees then let air dry for 15 minutes then back in the oven overnight....Dupli-Color Engine Enamel Ceramic works good for me cause there is no window for repaint...meaning the second coat will not curdle the first coat.
Special note...Bring the oven up to temp before installing part or they get goosebumps...and no higher then 160.
Special note 2...Notify wife so she does not preheat it for something else.....signs don't hurt.
Don't do this at home.
High_Horse
Here is the lid & v.c. etch primed. Tomorrow night I will sand and coat with epoxy primer.
From Pintony
Quote from: High_Horse on March 18, 2008, 04:42:07 PM
Say that fast five times... ;D
High_Horse
thet thet thet thet thet!
Was I supposed to hold my toung too? ;D
Here is the rocker cover with it's fresh coat of Ford Dark Blue.
Here I applied the rubber coating just like the factory did to hold #3 & 4 spark plug wires.
From Pintony
And a FRESH 2.0 Emmission sticker to finish off the restored look on my rocker cover.
SHINEY!!!! 8)
that's a good job on the cover.
Quote from: srt on March 25, 2008, 04:12:34 AM
that's a good job on the cover.
Thank you, SRT,
I'm thinking about puttting a very light coat of VHT clear over the paint and the sticker.
From Pintony
Quote from: Pintony on March 25, 2008, 09:36:16 AM
Thank you, SRT,
I'm thinking about puttting a very light coat of VHT clear over the paint and the sticker.
From Pintony
OK, so that did not work, :mad:
The clear made wrinkle finish from my nice smooth paint.
From Pintony :mad: :embarrassed: :'(
Pintony,
That is why I started using enamel......No wrinkle with recoats. The dupli-Color Engine Enamel Ceramic. Now you have to clean that all back off....bummer. And what about the sticker....ick........ :'(
High_Horse
Ok group,
As I am waiting on my 2nd rocker cover primer to dry. I thought I would turn my attention to the air filter housing.
The heat riser area has seen better days.
Notice the top unit for a 1972 Pinto with Ac has the lug intact for the heat riser tube.
I will rebuild the one from my Green Pinto with my old friend JB Weld.
From Pintony
I used an old cap about the same size to keep the aproximate size of the original hole.
I used masking tape to hold the original shape if the air horn.
From Pintony
After about 8hrs of dry time I removed the cap to expose the hole.
the epoxy is still pliable at this time. If I wait longer the epoxy will get so hard removal of the cap will be tough.
Another 24 hrs dry time to let the epoxy set up before It gets shaped.
I will use a dremil to shape the rest of the hole and trim down the under side so that the heat riser adaptor will lock in just like the factory intended...
From Pintony
Here is the snorkle after the JB has been shaped using a dremel.
Also in the photo is the adaptor to hook the heat riser up to the snorkle.
NOS of course... :)
From Pintony
This is the kind of stuff I like to see....except somewhere along the way I probably would have had it in the oven.......I love the oven...but remember that I am a skilled oveneer....so Pintony...Don't put anything in the oven just cause I put things in the oven...only v8 things can go in the oven.... ;D
Ok...I'm back...keep up the good work Pintony...Pinto america is watching. ;)
High_Horse
Thanks HH!!! :tgif: Almost
A few items left and i'm ready to fire my Green Pinto up!!!! :fastcar:
One more!
WOW the flash really makes the Ford Dk Blue I used look funny!
From Pintony
Hello Group,
Just got back from a 5 mile trip in my Green Pinto...
It runs real smooth. There does not seem to be any more power.
Will give it the timming light tomorrow and see where it is at?
For now it is just good to have it running again.
From Pintony
Pintony,
It may not seem like it is more powerfull but surely your fuel economy must be better.
High_Horse
Quote from: Pintony on March 29, 2008, 08:56:05 PM
Hello Group,
Just got back from a 5 mile trip in my Green Pinto...
Yahoo!!! for you Tony! Feels good to have it back on the road again I'll bet ;D
Thanks Guys!!...
Am doing some tinkering today to fine tune the Green Pinto.
After 8 years of owning this Pinto the ORIGINAL radiator finally is back in.
I had the rad rodded out when I got home from Cali as it would belch out the fluids every time I turned off the key.
I thought I was having the same problem BUT it appears that when the shop painted the rad they sprayed paint in the fill hole and the cap was not sealing.
All better now.. 8) :)
I have NO leaks YEEEPEEE!!!!!
Sat all night after running with a fresh piece of cardboard and when I went out today there were ZERO drips! :happy_bday: 2 ME!!! ;)
Man I can not believe how smooth is Pinto runs and it makes ALMOST NO noise.
Here is a photo of the Autolite Rad. cap and the FoMoGo logo.
I plan to strip and re-paint the rad.
From Pintony
Here is the Factory fuel filter for the 72 Pinto. I also found correct "GAS" replacement fuel line and EXACT logo, one-time clamps.
Notice thew original Ribbed vacum line. Have to do some more research on the line that goes to the de-cell valve. As I know that is NOT correct.
From Pintony
Speaking of de-cell valve??
Pintony,
Good to see the effort that you put into the restoration aspect of all your cars. In the case of the green car , with the duplication of the rubber fuel line at the Filter and elsewhere, I wonder if the formula of the OEM style hose is up to the modern fuel combos we have in various states, especially if any state is still using MTBE or high ethanol mixes. This would be really relevant if the car is coming west to the Knott's show.
If it's SAE J30 R7 nitrile NOS hose, this could cause leaks, on some fuels. The only stuff that handles all the Oxygenates with little change in the clamping "swell Ratio" is SAE J30 R9 fluoroeslatomer line.
Original is Cool and always a Concours aspect, but we don't get to choose our gas formulas much, if at all.
Just a bit of caution..
Shiney side up as always,
Pintosopher
Hello Pintosopher,
Thank you for your kind words.
I am sorry if my post confused you?
The fuel line is replacement "RE-POP" it is as close as I could find to what the original line looked liked.
Hopefully the manufacturing took your MTBE and ather techinical stuff into acct when they made them??
Quote from: Pintony on March 30, 2008, 04:27:39 PM
I also found correct "GAS" replacement fuel line and EXACT logo, one-time clamps.
wow.... impressive!
also good to hear you found the cause of the leak ;D
Hey Pintony,
My input is related to how little the manufacturers of rubber fuel line knew of really cared about in the past 10 years. I quizzed a Gates rubber engineer in Sacramento about this after a rash of Fuel fires started with MTBE. He shared the SAE info on the labeling of the fuel line and the Chemical formulas for different fuel types.
Just a side note, I still found the old SAE J30R7 "Leaky Stuff " in stock at a Kragen, Shucks store in my home town, this past winter!
I won't use it for anything but Vapor , or Coolant recovery hose. It might be worth looking into for your REPOP hose.
Yes , I'll come to your Museum someday ;D
Pintosopher
Quote from: pintosopher on March 30, 2008, 08:09:14 PM
Hey Pintony,
My input is related to how little the manufacturers of rubber fuel line knew of really cared about in the past 10 years. I quizzed a Gates rubber engineer in Sacramento about this after a rash of Fuel fires started with MTBE. He shared the SAE info on the labeling of the fuel line and the Chemical formulas for different fuel types.
Just a side note, I still found the old SAE J30R7 "Leaky Stuff " in stock at a Kragen, Shucks store in my home town, this past winter!
I won't use it for anything but Vapor , or Coolant recovery hose. It might be worth looking into for your REPOP hose.
Yes , I'll come to your Museum someday ;D
If it does not burn to the ground first!!!
Pintosopher
Hello Pintosopher,
I'm not too concerned...
I figure I'm driving a rolling "BOMB" anyway. ;D
From Pintony
Forgot to mention...
I bought this Pinto in 2000.
I had the battery out for 6 months and it started right-UP!!!!!.
It is the same battery that came with the car...
8 years old!!!
AMAZING
Looks awesome Tony. When I had the head off my Pinto I was going all out on the engine, but I was nowhere near as meticulous as you were. Then again mine is a used up 140,000 mile 77 instead of a "not even broken in" 72.