motor plate or motor mounts better idea? and solid or rubber mount on trans? im putting a 302 and toploader in my wagon. would an 8.8 rear work out of a ranger? its the right width, wondering about strength. also wondering what and where to get an oil pan
If you plan to drive it more than 500 miles a year use all rubber or urethane mounts. Less than 500 & lots of dragstrip duty then go plates & solid mounts. On a trip over an hour the solid mounting will drive you insane. Same goes for solid suspension bushings & heim joints.
I have the driver side MII motor mount for sale on ebay or I could end it now. It has been rebuilt with the polyurethane insulator so it will never have to be replaced. Don
which way is easier? the motor mounts or motor plate and figure out how to mount it through rubber mounts
The MII mounts are a simple bolt on. No major work needed.
any issues with exhaust doing it that way?
This toipc may help some ?
http://www.fordpinto.com/general-help/v8-swap-18095/msg117813/#msg117813
never seen arms like that before... interesting. does anyone have the hooker header or hedman header link to the kits that are supposed to be out there, i cant find them. and any info on oil pans would be awesome, trying to gather parts so i can do it over christmas break (damn college schedules)
i finally got my motor, 302 out of a 73 mustang, got my transmission, toploader 4 speed out of a 68 mustang, and my limited slip 8.8 out of a 88 ranger. think all i need is the oil pan and pickup, and motor mount style.
would the oil pan on the 73 mustang motor work?
gunna need a pan from a Mustang II
well if im not mistaken the mustang pan is also front sump, so what would the difference be?
Mustang II front sump pans are totally different on how its shaped compared to any other front sump. http://www.geocities.ws/frdsford/sidebysidepans1.jpg (http://www.geocities.ws/frdsford/sidebysidepans1.jpg) one on the right is a MustangII pan. Plus the sway bar needs to be removed from a pinto to run the V8.
never heard that before...crap
wonder why that detail woukld have beewn left out from the people i talked to
Well maybe they don't have a clue at to what they are doing?......
Quote from: WTR 70 on September 13, 2011, 09:01:52 PM
never seen arms like that before... interesting.
http://www.cvfracing.com/adjusting-rods-s/125.htm
I have ordered a number of items from them & all worked out well. This included shipping to Canada.
i even looked at a guys car and he never said anything about the sway bar.. that sucks. and are the arms just to help the torque of the motor?
Most people dont care about removing the sway bar to put a V8 in a pinto since all they are after is going fast in a straight line or looks.
A V8 road race pinto wouldnt be a very good idea and would prolly just end up handling like crap. Thats about the easiest way to put it. If yah wanna go fast its a perfect swap.
so street and mild strip would not be an issue with out it then
Straight line racing doesn't need a sway bar. The main purpose a sway has is to control body roll when cornering.
Nope you don't want to run a front sway bar on any car that will be at the strip unless its able to be disconnected. As for driving on the street it wont matter a whole lot unless your trying to keep up with a Porsche or sumthing in the corners anyhow.
well dont think i will have that issue haha, but i didnt know that you didnt want one for the drag strip.
In a drag app you want the front to lift and the rear to hook is the best way to put it.Usually when the front lifts it forces the rear tires to plant themselves and grip the pavement.
A rear sway bar can be useful for drag racing along with some sort of traction device and good shocks.
I personally want to run split mono-leaf springs and Cal-Trac traction bars both of which are sold by Calvert Racing.
i saw that caltrac kit. it looked pretty sweet to me, but my fab skills are better than my "filling someone elses pocket" skills. i wanna build something like that.
Quote from: WTR 70 on September 14, 2011, 11:32:29 PM
i saw that caltrac kit. it looked pretty sweet to me, but my fab skills are better than my "filling someone elses pocket" skills. i wanna build something like that.
Cal-tracs are easy to build. Heres a how too http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html (http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html) to help yah build them. Ill prolly build my own too. Just i dont see me trying to build a split-mono leaf spring. lol
I've been watching this thread since I have plans for a mild V8 in my 78 Sedan when I can find the Mustang II headers and oil pan + pickup.
With the sway bar removed, how bad is the steering? I have a sway bar on the car right now (15/16" from a station wagon), and it made a big difference when cornering compared to how it did without it.
Is there any other bar you can use with the V8 in the car?
Lo5ts of cars dont runs sway bars they just get more body roll then normal but if you dont drive crazy itll be fine.
As for a sway bar that will fit I dont think any will fit its pretty tight in a stock pinto with a 2.3 and the V8 pretty much takes up every inch of space there is.
Quote from: Bigtimmay on September 14, 2011, 11:36:36 PM
Cal-tracs are easy to build. Heres a how too http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html (http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html) to help yah build them. Ill prolly build my own too. Just i dont see me trying to build a split-mono leaf spring. lol
that is an awesome link!
so where is the cheapest place to buy a mustang 2 oil pan
Cheapest...A junk yard. I can get one for $15.00....If I can nab it before someone else does. Almost had my chance a few months ago but someone beat me to it by a day! :'(
The most credible and available place to get it? MustangII.net, but good luck finding someone who will let go of it. Probably won't be very cheap either.
These Stang II pans are worth their weight in gold when it comes to hot rodding a Pinto or restoring a Mustang II, no joke about it.
Don't forget to get the oil pump pickup tube if/when you get the pan. I have heard they are a matched set (please correct me if I am wrong).
http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/street-oil-pans-ford80.asp
One of them work for you ?
Mine is a one off special build just for this car. Note the notch so the engine sits as low as it can over the rack.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Cars/1972Pinto056.jpg)
All those look to be rear sump fox pans reeves and as far as i know no one makes a Mustang II pan unless you can special order it.
i think i might have found an oil pan. the sales guy said it is for the mustang 2
http://www.drivewire.com/search/?Ntt=rpws9532&N=0&uts=true&t_event=true (http://www.drivewire.com/search/?Ntt=rpws9532&N=0&uts=true&t_event=true)
I do not believe that will work in a Pinto. It looks like a standard Ford oil pan.
almost thinking getting a normal pan and modifying it to work would be easier
That pan wont fit. Not even close.
Making a pan of your own that wont leak is the tricky part. I can fab a pan that fits myself but trying to make it leakproof would test my patience something fierce.
do you know how close the pan can be to the crank?
or how far the pickup has to be from the pan
Most windage trays only clear the rod bolts by 1/4" but you would probably want 1/2" clearance at least if you aren't running a windage tray so the crank doesn't pick up oil from the pan. The pickup clearance should be 1/8" to 1/4"
thats what i was kinda quessing but i dont want to guess wrong, seems a good way to get good at changing motors haha
I have a v8 motor out of a 79 mustang ll( minus heads and intake ) so I would have a pan & pickup. was going to use on my project but went dry sump instead. Bud
be inerested in selling?
I would, also have a new set of headman headers to sell. can e mail a pic if interested. Bud
please do!
What's your e mail addres?
Wtracing_Dowell@msn.com
e mail sent
do they make a header that will fit inside without cutting anything?
The old Heddmann Tarantula hedders that come forward but they aren't cheap & I havn't seen a set for sale in a year.
Quote from: WTR 70 on September 16, 2011, 07:50:00 PM
do they make a header that will fit inside without cutting anything?
"They" used to ! LOL !
Picture is from the early 70s & the first V8 swap I did.
It was a kit from Holman (Herbert ?) & Moody. Came with motor mounts, headers & I think a couple other things ?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Cars/familyshots16.jpg)
all i can say is wow.
definitely interesting setup for headers right there
so has anybody used the front engine plate?
I used a early mustang pan and just notched the front of of it, the piece I cut out I just flipped over and welded back in. I wouldn't want to drive around without a sway bar myself.
i see your text thing says 289, does your wagon have a v8? and do you have the sway bar in it still?
Yes my car is a v8. actually a 302 now and yes it has the sway bar in it. thats why i had to notch the pan. I'll try to take a pic of it.
Here are a couple pics of my notched oil pan:
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j169/michelle48004/0919111940b.jpg)
(http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j169/michelle48004/0919111940a.jpg)
[so has anybody used the front engine plate?
[/quote]
I made my own engine mounts that are similar to a plate and very easy to do. Much easier than regular mII mounts I think. I outlined the entire swap into a '71, you can prob still find it if you do a search on V8 swaps, mine is in the projects section titled "71 V8 Swap, Let The Fun Begin" Should answer some of your questions. Haven't been around much lately, lot of issues going on but some members may remember me!
Quote from: 71pintoracer on September 19, 2011, 07:47:28 PM
[so has anybody used the front engine plate?
I made my own engine mounts that are similar to a plate and very easy to do. Much easier than regular mII mounts I think. I outlined the entire swap into a '71, you can prob still find it if you do a search on V8 swaps, mine is in the projects section titled "71 V8 Swap, Let The Fun Begin" Should answer some of your questions. Haven't been around much lately, lot of issues going on but some members may remember me!
http://www.fordpinto.com/your-project/71-v8-swap-let-the-fun-begin!!/msg58137/#msg58137
i keep seeing different ways of using the engine plate, getting some ideas now
next question. hood clearence, does the 302 fit under the hood or what is required to make it fit under the hood?
From what I hear...An MII oil pan will allow a 289 to fit snug under the hood, not sure about a 302 though. I'm sure a lower profile air cleaner would be necessary as well.
The 289 and 302 are both Windsor engines so physically they are the same. It will depend on carb, air cleaner and intake as to how much hood clearance you will have. I have an aluminum intake with a Holley 650 which will fit under the hood...barely, but no room for an air cleaner so I will wind up with a hole in the hood.
is your intake an air gap or anything thats higher? would the factory cast one work to where you wouldnt have to cut the hood?
I finally snapped a few pics of the pan I got off Ebay a couple years ago. I haven't been able to compare it directly to the MII pan but it looks close. I was going to make my own frame mounts anyway & I had to cut the hood for the tunnel ram so if I had to raise the engine slightly to make it work it was no biggie. For $69 bucks with the pickup it was worth the shot.
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/1979%20Pinto/7lkhouo.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/1979%20Pinto/9kjgkljh.jpg)
(http://i1023.photobucket.com/albums/af357/OrangeCrushMustang/1979%20Pinto/6lihljhl.jpg)
The intake is called an Xelerator...not sure who made it. It's not an air gap but sits higher than a factory cast iron 4bbl intake manifold.
is the height different from a 4bl to a 2bl stock cast intake?
Quote from: WTR 70 on September 22, 2011, 06:22:44 PM
is the height different from a 4bl to a 2bl stock cast intake?
no difference in height just the weight issue. It's a really tight fit to get it under the hood.
Pinto5.0, hard to tell w/o a mII pan to compare it to but the issue is where the pan angles down to the sump. The mII pan is flat not angled at all and kind of dished out right at the sump to give more clearance for the rack. I had to use one to make my headers fit right. I've seen those low profile pans on e-bay as well, sure would be nice to know if they would work because the mII pans are pretty rare although they do pop up from time to time.
(Thanks for posting the link to my swap Reeves1! :) )
so i should just do an after market intake and cut the hood
Quote from: 71pintoracer on September 22, 2011, 06:49:50 PM
no difference in height just the weight issue. It's a really tight fit to get it under the hood.
Pinto5.0, hard to tell w/o a mII pan to compare it to but the issue is where the pan angles down to the sump. The mII pan is flat not angled at all and kind of dished out right at the sump to give more clearance for the rack. I had to use one to make my headers fit right. I've seen those low profile pans on e-bay as well, sure would be nice to know if they would work because the mII pans are pretty rare although they do pop up from time to time.
(Thanks for posting the link to my swap Reeves1! :) )
i believe your car is the one i saw with the seperated motor mounts that bolt to the heads wasnt it?
Yes thats mine. Doing the mounts that way clears up a lot of room for the starter and the headers. As far as the hood, I think a few have tucked the engine under a stock hood with a low intake and low profile air cleaner just because they wanted it to look as stock as possible, but even a small hood scoop will help and unless you have some very quiet mufflers it's not going to be a secret very long. I can't seem to fool anyone.
Quote from: 71pintoracer on September 22, 2011, 06:49:50 PM
Pinto5.0, hard to tell w/o a mII pan to compare it to but the issue is where the pan angles down to the sump. The mII pan is flat not angled at all and kind of dished out right at the sump to give more clearance for the rack. I had to use one to make my headers fit right. I've seen those low profile pans on e-bay as well, sure would be nice to know if they would work because the mII pans are pretty rare although they do pop up from time to time.
Like I said I was gonna make my own frame mounts so that slight angle was no biggie. I was gonna position the engine to clear everything THEN make frame mounts to keep it there. I was also gonna use standard 302 rubber mounts since I have a new pair already. Now that I have the '73 all that out the window since I have to swap the crossmember.
Quote from: 71pintoracer on September 22, 2011, 07:53:38 PM
Yes thats mine. Doing the mounts that way clears up a lot of room for the starter and the headers. As far as the hood, I think a few have tucked the engine under a stock hood with a low intake and low profile air cleaner just because they wanted it to look as stock as possible, but even a small hood scoop will help and unless you have some very quiet mufflers it's not going to be a secret very long. I can't seem to fool anyone.
HAHAHA ya im just going for the fooling people while the car is off, after that nobody will be wondering :)
Quote from: 71pintoracer on September 22, 2011, 07:53:38 PM
Yes thats mine. Doing the mounts that way clears up a lot of room for the starter and the headers. As far as the hood, I think a few have tucked the engine under a stock hood with a low intake and low profile air cleaner just because they wanted it to look as stock as possible, but even a small hood scoop will help and unless you have some very quiet mufflers it's not going to be a secret very long. I can't seem to fool anyone.
Also did you have any issues with the fuel pump?
You mean as far as clearance? no, none at all, used a stock 302 fuel pump but I did relocate the fuel lines because on the '71-'73 body they run inside of the frame rail.
that seems like the way to go to me then, all the other plates require an electric fuel pump that i have seen
so i looked at a 4 cylinder mustang 2 tipped on its side, junkyard, got a set of shock plates for the rear axle to start fabbing up the traction bar setup, anyway, the 4 cylinder looked like it had a lot of room around the cross member and sway bar. just wondering how much different the 302 mustang 2 oil pan is from that or how they are different. i know the 4 cyl to 302 is different, but was wondering if they sat lower or what in them
The thing is that the crossmember & suspension pieces are the same between both cars but the engine bays are completely different. Inner fenders, core support, firewall etc. do not interchange & frankly it's amazing that the MII oil pan is even close enough to allow the swap.
The framerails are the same width which is why the mounts will fit but the V8 sits a tad farther forward & slightly higher in the MII but you can't do that in a Pinto so it's a tight fit.
I pulled a tape measure on a Mustang ll and found it was 5'' longer from cowl to radiator support,the pc from bottom of steering shaft to rack looked about 3'' to 4'' longer. That's why a v8 fits so much better and would think a better weight transfer for racing. From what I deducted the motor frame mounts had the same location to rack/ crossmember so they allow it to work on the Pinto,just a little tight on the transmission side.
That is really suprising there is that much difference, i always kinda figured they were realtively the same chassis's
Quote from: WTR 70 on September 26, 2011, 08:52:53 PM
That is really suprising there is that much difference, i always kinda figured they were realtively the same chassis's
I always thought they shared more myself till I wanted to use repop MII floorpans on my Pinto & began to realize absolutely nothing interchanges.
Quote from: 79prostreet on September 26, 2011, 08:24:14 PMFrom what I deducted the motor frame mounts had the same location to rack/ crossmember so they allow it to work on the Pinto,just a little tight on the transmission side.
If that was true the sway bar would fit. I've never measured but I "think" the engines all mount about 3/4" to 1 1/4" forward in an MII compared to a Pinto. MII & Pinto front framerails dont interchange & I'm betting if you measured engine mount bolt hole locations in both cars you would find the MII holes slightly farther forward from the crossmember. I would also bet the mounts are 3/8" to 5/8" higher on the frame rails as well. That tiny bit makes a HUGE difference in fit.
so whats better, mechanical or electric fuel pump? and does the battery have to be moved out of the engine compartment?
I'm going to attempt to leave the battery in the original location on mine. If I can find a battery with the right dimensions and enough CCA's I'll try it. I think I might have to wrap 1 header tube to keep the heat down under the battery. The only reason why I want to try this is since moving the battery away from the stock location means you have to have a kill switch per NHRA rules for racing. I dont want to drill any holes in the car and I would be very limited on where I can put the battery with the roll cage I have in the car.
I used 71 pintoracers post and made his mounts, made my oil pan to get the motor low as possible and it closes under a stock hood, but its a little snug. Had to move the battery back cause of the headers.
About the battery in the front. Id reconsider. The stock location boils batterys with the 4cly as it is. Plus theres the weight transfer issue if your drag racing a front heavy car.
I didnt even consider keeping it up front when i did mine just for the reliability factor.
Maybe you could put a kill switch in the backup lens or some other conspicuous location that would keep you from drilling holes in the sheetmetal?
Just some thoughts!
For right now I wont be drag racing the car. It's just got to run and be driveable enough to get it on and off of a trailer for car shows. Per NHRA rules the master switch has to be accessible so thats not happening right now.
I actually looked at a drag wagon a while ago, and he put his kill switch in his tail light lens, he said everyone told him it would crack, but it worked great
I put mine inside the trunk and ran a small diamater rod from it out through the tail light lens with a small round knob on it and a label on the lens that says "push off" per rules. Just a small hole drilled in a spare lens and the original put away for safe keeping!
Quote from: 71pintoracer on September 29, 2011, 09:04:49 PM
I put mine inside the trunk and ran a small diamater rod from it out through the tail light lens with a small round knob on it and a label on the lens that says "push off" per rules. Just a small hole drilled in a spare lens and the original put away for safe keeping!
Exactly what im talking about. A little innovation and a bit of work. Get an optima battery and i dont think you'll need a battery box or a firewall. But i may be mistaken per NHRA rules. They are usually over the top on things like this anyways. As far as just a place to mount it that's something you'll have to come up with.
However , unless you wrap ALL the tubes ( which will overheat and degrade the headers over a very short time ) you'll bake that battery in a few hundred miles. I'm just speaking from experience.
Wish you luck no matter what!
Lets see some pics!
should the stock manifolds clear with room or should the battery still be moved
how do the mustang 2 motor mounts work? does it make it a bolt in or do you still have to move something?
If your using a Pinto with the 2.3 you leave the passenger side frame mount where it is. The drivers side mount is moved back 1". The Mustang II engine mounts fit right on them. Using a Mustang II oil pan gives clearance for the manual rack and pinion steering. A modified oil pan can be used.
Quote from: WTR 70 on October 02, 2011, 11:49:31 PM
should the stock manifolds clear with room or should the battery still be moved
I cannot answer the battery question, but my 72 with the 302w in it has the manifolds on & they clear everything.
can you post pics of the manifolds or email them to me?
I just checked all my pictures & none show them completely. I'll be in the shop today, so will try & get better pictures.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Cars/IMG_2600.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Cars/IMG_2599.jpg)
awesome
does anyone have a set of mustang 2 motor mounts they'd sell?
or does someone have a pattern for the front style plates that bolt to the heads
You may want to look at Speedway Motors part #s
1353764 and 7209314
They may seem pricey, but they are well made with heavy gauge metal.
Also part # CE 704
http://www.campbellenterprises.com/motorplates.php
Quote from: Ricpinto on October 12, 2011, 01:28:52 AM
You may want to look at Speedway Motors part #s 1353764 and 7209314
Very Interesting! thanks for the info - has anybody used these? offer more info?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search-1353764.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search-1353764.html)
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Bolt-Through-Engine-Mount-Cushion-Kit,1199.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Bolt-Through-Engine-Mount-Cushion-Kit,1199.html)
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search-1353274.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/search-1353274.html)
QuoteVery Interesting! thanks for the info - has anybody used these? offer more info?
I might be able to ? Since I like that better than the plate style. May have to order them today ? LOL !
Edit: Done ! Hey, it's only money ! LOL !
Didn't see any frame mounts that would work for me though. Easy enough to make them though.
I would "guess" they mount similar to the way the motor plate does, just a bit farther back
I will be using the 2 items already mentioned + I bought the frame adapters # 1353274.
They will work out, but if I had to do it again I would make my own since there is so much stuff inbetween the 'frame rails' (support tubes for the impact bumper bolts etc ) that it difficult to drill holes where you need them,+ sway bar mounting bkt. & so on.
One person who placed a review for the 1353274 bkt. said he cut them off at the weld & built from there. At first glance that seems a waste of $ but when you think about the time & material to make something with an adjustable slot etc. it may not be such a bad idea.
Ric... you have any pictures available?
Another sleepless night, so rooting around the net looking at Pinto stuff.
Found a site claiming Pinto headers: http://www.pronto.com/user/search.do?displayQuery=ford%20engine%20headers&SEM=true&query=ford%20engine%20headers&adid=1211339975-7046279d-0_gs&ref=ford%20engine%20headers&creativeid=3791455004&site=
So, went to the Headman site & they say they are for a Ranger. http://www.hedman.com/site/?d=119&dt=108&Keyword=89500
Wonder if they would work ?
hmm looks interesting, that'd be sweet if it did work
@ cookieboy, yes i have found some pics I took with a 'film' camera & scanned for you,but I can't find anway on here to contact you. And I'm way to computer stuipd to ever figure out how to post a pic on here. Sorry about that.
Ricpinto - you can email him, or me. I'd be happy to post them for you.
(or just load them into Photo Bucket & copy/paste the bottom link in your post here. Just make sure not to post a link side by each. Leave a line or two between each one)
Send me a PM with your e-mail....
Quote from: Ricpinto on October 17, 2011, 07:49:50 PM
@ cookieboy, yes i have found some pics I took with a 'film' camera & scanned for you,but I can't find anway on here to contact you.
email is cookieboystoys @ yahoo.com
if you click on any members name at the beginning of a post it brings you to their profile and... most will have an email listed ;)
Quote from: Ricpinto on October 17, 2011, 07:49:50 PM
And I'm way to computer stuipd to ever figure out how to post a pic on here. Sorry about that.
Don't worry Ricpinto, I got your back and will post them for all to see, thanks for sharing ;D
Cookieboy -- Thanks for posting the pics for me !
A note, if anyone is interested in using these -
The frame brackets will be up higher on a 'normal' V-8 conversion. I lowered my R&P and modified my oil pan to get my carbs down low enough to meet PA overkill inspection rules.
And BTW that is not the engine I will be using. :)
Looking good !
I had forgotten to order the frame mounts ! Opps ! Done now though.
The two head bolts looks like it may be too light for my B2 swap. I will/may/try and do a mod or two to them....
@ Reeves1
At the risk of showing how old & behind the times I am, would you please tell me what a B2 is.
BOSS 302.
This is the engine going in (my car had a B2 before, but 2 owners ago took it out)
In the picture it is sitting in a 67 Cougar. It's out now & crated up ready to ship to me. Will look better when cleaned up....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Cars/BOSS302dragpack.jpg)
Oh, now I understand - a 289/ 271 Hi-Po with crooked valves.
*** JUST KIDDING ***
That is a great find ! I hope the bolt pattern on the front of the heads are the same.
Hope all goes well for you - it surely will s**t & get when it's done !
If the bolt pattern is different, I will just change it.
Not much choice, as there are not a lot of things made for B2s.
how much of a project is putting one of those in? i think that looks sweet!
Same as a 302w except for headers. No one makes them & I will be going custom.
But you have a ton of info here now : you need to start yours.
There is no try, only do, or do not (Yoda)
I'll be going to Sweetgrass MT to pick my B2 up. I could bring my 302w & T-5 down for you to the same place, ship from there. Just lowered the price by 1k.
PM for info if you are serious.
cant afford now, and im getting everything gathered up finally, doing mine over christmas break, school is interferring lol
Turns out they will not work on BOSS 302 heads. Not even close !
finally got the swap started! doing lots of modifications, cut the firewall up and modifying the pan, set the motor back to where i can run a manual fan and radiator without cutting the core support or removing the sway bar. also removing th mounts, got a set of mounts from a 73 mustang, just gotta fab up some mounts and then build the firewall.
I did a sort of opps.....while the engine was out of my car I meant to take pictures of the frame mounts. Never seen ones like these.
I'll take pictures next time I pull the B2 for the re-build.
Go with the short water pump & pulleys. Gives you an extra 1.5" at the front.
Rad support doesn't need to be cut. Install the flywheel & water pump, dampner etc after the motor is in & you will have planty of room to drop the engine in.
If you have some help, the flywheel , trans etc can be installed at the same time. (I do all my work alone)
i just bolted the actual trans to my motor, didnt put the clutch in or anything yet, i set it in with the mustang 2 pan and it like wedged in between the rack and the sway bar, so i pulled the factory pan back out of the scrap pile, lifted the motor back up, and while still in the car swapped the pans (not an easy task) and then measured how far i could modify the pan for clearence and still have room on the pickup tube. i used the mustang 2 pickup, its a bit shorter than a factory one, gained another half inch there. im not sure if i have the short pump or not, but i threw a fan on it and actually set the original radiator back in, and i have clearence for everything. i ended up moving the motor back about 4 inches. ended up having the shifter line up perfectly with the factory hole.
Short water pump.
http://www.fordracingpartsdirect.com/STREET_ROD_SHORT_V_BELT_WATER_PUMP_p/m-8501-e351s.htm
Pulleys for short water pump.
http://www.cvfracing.com/ford-racing-short-pulleys-s/54.htm
Brackets are on the same site.
is that damper required or do ya know? or should it work by changing pump and pulleys
I am interested in seeing how you got it all to fit and still have a sway bar. I hope to keep my sway bar on when I do the swap on my 78, if at all possible.
Quote from: WTR 70 on January 13, 2012, 12:24:45 AM
is that damper required or do ya know? or should it work by changing pump and pulleys
Just change pump, pulleys and alt brackets. Depending on what timing cover you have, it may need changing as well.
I was told I would have to change mine so ordered it. Turns out I did not need it.
One parts guy also told me none of the parts would work on my BOSS 302 as it is a big block. I told him no , it is not a big block. Just sell me the parts ! LOL !
I did however, have to order the 351C alt brackets , due to the bolt pattern on the heads. They should be here this week.
Alt is just hanging there on one bolt. The new brackets will make it sit different & back farther.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/My%201972%20Pinto/IMG_1107.jpg)
do you have clearence for a fan and the radiator on the inside of the core support?
Haven't found a fan yet to try.
Went to the local junk yard & they had not a one ! All electric. Nothing older than 10 years.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/My%201972%20Pinto/IMG_1108.jpg)
i have been using the factory one of the 4 banger to mock up, i might just use that fan and the original radiator, i just had it redone and not really wanting to buy an aluminum one, even though $130 isnt bad
Your original rad will not be enough for a V8.
If you have a rad shop near by, they should be able to make any rad size you want.
any factory ones that will work?
Quote from: WTR 70 on September 15, 2011, 06:44:33 PM
so where is the cheapest place to buy a mustang 2 oil pan
I did a v8 into a 74 wagon years ago, i have many pictures of this car i may post later. My point i want to make though is that i used a 66 mustang 289 and altered nothing from stock on the motor except the passenger exhaust manifold. I had to mill off the heat tube for the choke for added clearance. I did however move the passenger 2.3 mount forward vs. Moving the drivers side back. So there are options, each having positives and negatives. I hope this helps.
Back in the 70s when I built the 3 72s with a 302w I used the stock pan as well.
anyone looking for a mustang 2 pan and pickup tube? i have one i'd sell now
Quote from: WTR 70 on January 18, 2012, 04:18:26 PM
anyone looking for a mustang 2 pan and pickup tube? i have one i'd sell now
Before you sell it, try it & a stock pan. See which one gives you more clearance for the engine to be lower & farther back.
Quote from: Reeves1 on January 18, 2012, 05:18:11 PM
Before you sell it, try it & a stock pan. See which one gives you more clearance for the engine to be lower & farther back.
i modified my stock pan and the stock pickup tube, i set it back farther then either of them would without being modified, so i decided to cut the stock one up insted of cutting the mustang 2 one, so i could resell it
i'd post a pic of the pan but idk how to add that
Simple.
Start a Photo Bucket account. Load pictures. When done, put your cusor over a picture. In the pop up box there will be 4 code line boxes. Click the bottom (img) box & it will auto copy.
Right click in your post where you want the picture & "paste".
Leave a line or two between each picture, or they may end up side by each & make your post too wide.
You may want to start a topic in Your Projects about your build.
Would like to see pictures !
anyone ever attempt to build headers for these? i found a set of manifolds but only have an 1/8 inch on either side. just ordered flanges and 90 degree mandrel bends to try to build a set. if anyone has, any input would be appreciated
Quote from: WTR 70 on January 22, 2012, 01:32:44 PM
anyone ever attempt to build headers for these? i found a set of manifolds but only have an 1/8 inch on either side. just ordered flanges and 90 degree mandrel bends to try to build a set. if anyone has, any input would be appreciated
speaking from experience (not building them for pintos specifically).
be VERY patient. plan it out. really THINK about how those pipes will be routed. think about access for performing regular maintenance. think about ease of installation & removal.
kinda thinking we are going to have to come out and curve up then go back, it is a bit tight if we go down out of the head haha, we will see!
Ice Engine Works makes a kit to mock up headers. http://www.icengineworks.com/icewmain.htm (http://www.icengineworks.com/icewmain.htm) I am currently waiting for my header flanges to show up so I can start mock up. I am impressed with how easy these things are to use. One thing I don't like about them, if you want to make a full length header, as the primary pipes start getting long, these plastic pieces don't support their own weight very well. IEW recommends using super glue... I have found a few pieces of electrical tape does the trick quite well and you can reuse them over and over. Check it out. I will post a pic of the 53 ford truck that we have started using them on. AWESOME. We purchased the cheaper starter kit, and found that it is only enough pieces to do one side at a time. Just my two cents.
That looks like an awesome tool for designing headers, thank you for sharing Late!
hello all! im picking up a 73 and i already have a complete 5.0 HO out of my wrecked 89 mustang, and my question is, will 74-79 v8 swap headers fit in a 73?? or would i have to make some?..
heres the headers i found: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-6161HKR/Application/?prefilter=0
It's my understanding that '71-'73's have a narrower engine bay thus conversion parts for '74 and later are not compatable. I have an N.O.S. set of hooker headers for early chassis pintos that I bought back in 1983 . They have never been bolted up or fired through. They have no rust or dings in them AND THEY MIGHT BE FOR SALE depending on the power plant I will be putting in my latest project. If I have the engine bay thing wrong please correct me.
i have the hooker headers on my 73 and they fit fine
brad :)
they look like they'd work i just cant see payin that much haha
possibly found an easier way to do exhaust, basically tubular manifolds...have to see how it works
would a radiator 21-3/8" Wide and 19-3/4" Tall fit in between the rails? i cant measure my car right now, 200 miles away from it and just found an aluminum radiator for 200, can someone let me know if this would fit between, thanks guys
Uncoated/Raw Headers - SB-Ford 260-351W (All)
- 1-5/8'' Tube Diameter
- 2-1/2'' Collector
- SAP Port Shape
776-D601-R - [/l][/l]
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how do i put pics up on here? the project is nearing completion :) just wanted to show everyone how i did it
Quote from: WTR 70 on September 10, 2012, 09:20:11 AM
how do i put pics up on here? the project is nearing completion :) just wanted to show everyone how i did it
Photo bucket
Up load the pics. When ready to post copy the bottom (img) of the 4 links it will show. Paste it in it's own line.