Easiest thing is to swap the ignition module but they can probably check it, they did at O'Reilly. The wire grommet holding wires to box needs to be blue in color and only six wires coming out of module IIRC. No blue colored wire, that would be an early module (seven wires?) that got modded to drop the blue wire. Either can work but the blue wire must be wired correctly, a transient voltage correction deal there.
The pickup has resistance values, it also can be spun by hand out of the car with a volt meter attached to the wires to look for a signal coming out, either DC (single blips) or AC (accumulative blips to make power) as low a range as you can get it. The airgap needs to be close as well, wider results in crap signal that misfires. The gap may not be adjustable on these like others. You can bend slightly the base plate thinking but the two parts must never touch. Closer is definitely better though.
I do not time with the rotor, rather the pickup/reluctor, lining them up perfectly and then checking the rotor position to back that up. The rotor will be slightly wrong since even at idle speeds some advancing will have taken place. You turn the rotor by hand against the spring to get some idea of the amount you are looking for. Disconnect vacuum advance and tune in timing without that on to simplify issues.