Author Topic: Radiator Question! (Read 31301 times)

nnn0wqk · « **Reply #90 on:** July 23, 2013, 12:50:09 AM »

If memory serves me Ford actually used a 3/4 to 5/8 hose on that heater fitting. Never made much since to me either. Kind of like putting the hose connections on the passenger side of the fire wall!! Not one of Fords better ideas. Try Napa or some of the other chain stores and see what they might have. Or get an adapter and a small lenght of 3/4 hose and go to 5/8. I looked on Ebay and they have a molded hose with those sizes up that is not quite what you want.

sedandelivery · « **Reply #91 on:** July 23, 2013, 07:45:59 AM »

When I put my heater back in, I used regular hose and bought an adapter that allowed me to put the 2 hose sizes together, using hose clamps.

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #92 on:** July 23, 2013, 09:17:11 AM »

Thanks guys, I have seen universal hose with 5/8 to 3/4 before I'll see if I can find some local, if not I'll just go the adapter route I could make one if I had to. Just don't make sense why there isn't 3/4 on both ends??, but heater hose on the inside of the firewall don't make much sense either, lol..

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #93 on:** July 24, 2013, 10:24:03 PM »

Ok, got the heater box all cleaned up and back together and ready to go back in just need the hoses, measured the top hole in the firewall and 3/4 hose will fit so I'll go that route with an adapter, now the question is which goes where?, I've looked at pics and I see some with the top hose going to the pump and bottom to the intake and vice versa, but now that it all ends up being 5/8 anyhow I was wondering if it makes any difference which way they're routed, just want to route them to get the most heat??, what you guys think??..

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #94 on:** July 25, 2013, 01:10:45 AM »

You want the flow going in the lower inlet & out the top to avoid air pockets in the core

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #95 on:** July 25, 2013, 08:40:11 AM »

That makes sense definitely don't want any air pockets, I take it the top hose goes to the pump then.

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #96 on:** July 25, 2013, 12:35:00 PM »

Quote from: 74 PintoWagon on July 25, 2013, 08:40:11 AM

That makes sense definitely don't want any air pockets, I take it the top hose goes to the pump then.

That's a good question. I would assume so since the lower hose on the radiator is the return to the pump & the water then goes into the block passages 1st.

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #97 on:** July 25, 2013, 08:08:57 PM »

Kinda what I was thinking..

Fred Morgan · « **Reply #98 on:** July 25, 2013, 08:54:06 PM »

Art I find heater useless here as U should 2 months out of the year with a little cold, when you come buy tomorrow I will show U all the difference systems. Most of the cars are apart and you can see what U need, and make a decision. I do have 2 real blaster Piper aircraft A/C systems. Fred

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #99 on:** July 25, 2013, 09:05:18 PM »

Thanks Fred, I'll see ya tomorrow...

waldo786 · « **Reply #100 on:** July 25, 2013, 11:37:20 PM »

As an update, I tried again just for hits and giggles to order a radiator from autozone, and it worked. They have another deal going $20 off and free shipping over $75 so I got mine for the same price someone else mentioned: $115. Sure beats $175. I also went to the store and asked about it and they had them available so I ordered one from the store too before I was piddling online. I'd still rather pay full price $135 than $175, but looks like I'll have to take that one back I paid full price for. That $20 will help me buy more parts I need...

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #101 on:** July 26, 2013, 08:19:53 AM »

Back in stock, good to know..

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #102 on:** July 26, 2013, 12:26:16 PM »

Quote from: 74 PintoWagon on July 26, 2013, 08:19:53 AM

Back in stock, good to know..

Must be hit & miss. I tried last nite just to check stock & it didn't go through. I's suggest trying a couple times a day if you are really after one & see if you get lucky.

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #103 on:** July 26, 2013, 12:38:10 PM »

Sounds like they don't stock very many at a time, and since they are getting hard to find they go as fast as they come in, I must have ordered just at the right time..

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #104 on:** August 21, 2013, 09:24:50 PM »

Had a chance to work on the car today, put the new heater core in and got it stuffed back in what a PITA that was, anyhow it's all hooked up got the hoses all on but I think I got them on backwards because there's no heat, the top hose goes to the pump and the bottom goes to the intake, hoses get hot but no heat, I'm sure there's no air in there because I had to add a fair amount of coolant besides what was in there, only thing I can think of is the hoses are on backwards, anyone else have this same problem??..

Fred Morgan · « **Reply #105 on:** August 21, 2013, 09:55:32 PM »

Art come buy tomorrow I can show you all the different hook ups. I still have 3 74's out there with and without A/C. 2 are wagons but that makes no difference on instal. John I sold him 73 wagon with A/C he is a mile from you we can check out his 73 V-8 wagon. Fred

Pinto5.0 · « **Reply #106 on:** August 21, 2013, 10:05:36 PM »

Are the hoses getting hot?

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #107 on:** August 21, 2013, 11:41:14 PM »

Quote from: Pinto5.0 on August 21, 2013, 10:05:36 PM

Are the hoses getting hot?

Yes they are.

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #108 on:** August 21, 2013, 11:44:48 PM »

Quote from: Fred Morgan on August 21, 2013, 09:55:32 PM

Art come buy tomorrow I can show you all the different hook ups. I still have 3 74's out there with and without A/C. 2 are wagons but that makes no difference on instal. John I sold him 73 wagon with A/C he is a mile from you we can check out his 73 V-8 wagon. Fred

Thanks Fred, I'll try and come over in the morning sometime..

slowride · « **Reply #109 on:** August 22, 2013, 10:57:32 AM »

I'm on my 2nd Autozone radiator in 2 years. Free replacement the 2nd time because of "lifetime" warranty. There is a supersession that a marginal counterperson (most all of them) won't be able to figure out, but is still available. I had to redrill 2 mounting holes in the radiator brackets to fit the core support of my '74, but no big deal. Heater core replacement actually wasn't bad at all, but I don't have A/C either.
I got a complete 2.3 from Fred, and will be re-ringing it and replacing the bottom end. FYI Fred, this engine was rebuilt not too long ago as the bearings (0.50mm) were literally like new, and was bored 1mm over with no ridge. Re-ring with my head and cam and it'll go another 150K miles. Thanks again!

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #110 on:** August 22, 2013, 11:41:48 AM »

I got one from the Zone too but it bolted right on, it has holes for different applications it seems like, no A/C either but core was still a pain but I guess it wasn't that bad I've had worse,LOL..

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #111 on:** August 22, 2013, 02:44:50 PM »

Well heck guess I had air in there after all, started it up this morning and walla heat all kinds of it and the wife is happy,lol.. Now that that's done I found another issue, after I shut it off I saw vapors coming out the top of the carb and saw a bit of fuel on the throttle plates so it's drooling, guess I'll pull it apart and put a kit in it, it never ends, LOL..

amc49 · « **Reply #112 on:** August 23, 2013, 05:21:51 AM »

If you don't have a weight or checkball under the pump shooter then normal heat can bubble fuel out of a carb in great shape. The checkball is to stop that.

There is no way you can avoid trapped air in a heater core with both outlets on same end. It will have to have an internal divider to work that way or the coolant would simply short circuit from inlet to outlet and no heat at all. The internal divider means one pass must possibly trap air regardless of how you hook up hoses.

Ford has been making double sized hose end hoses for forty years trying to force people to buy more factory hoses. A quick trip to parts store for a plastic reducer or even better Home Depot for plumbing parts to make a metal reducer that lasts forever. Been doing it to use bulk hose (MUCH cheaper!) for the same forty years. On my stupid Focus cars with 9 pieces of hose, all I use is the main upper and lower radiator ones, the other seven are replaced by bulk hose using the reducers. I checked the Motorcraft official parts prices as compared to bulk hose and $102 dollar savings on hoses alone! When the metal tubes finally decomposed into pieces on my Mustang II 2.3 I made up copper ones for little or nothing, they lasted the life of the car. Hint, I rebuilt the engine three times, car had like 450,000 miles on it, and one very tired Mustang II when it was all done.

Who cares whether the outlets are all the same size, they do it to make you cave in and spend more money. Not this boy.......

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #113 on:** August 23, 2013, 08:53:55 AM »

Quote from: amc49 on August 23, 2013, 05:21:51 AM

If you don't have a weight or checkball under the pump shooter then normal heat can bubble fuel out of a carb in great shape. The checkball is to stop that.

Yeah I know, carb was on there when I got the car so I figure I may as well go over it that way It'll be fresh and I know what I have.

Quote

There is no way you can avoid trapped air in a heater core with both outlets on same end. It will have to have an internal divider to work that way or the coolant would simply short circuit from inlet to outlet and no heat at all. The internal divider means one pass must possibly trap air regardless of how you hook up hoses.

Ford has been making double sized hose end hoses for forty years trying to force people to buy more factory hoses. A quick trip to parts store for a plastic reducer or even better Home Depot for plumbing parts to make a metal reducer that lasts forever. Been doing it to use bulk hose (MUCH cheaper!) for the same forty years. On my stupid Focus cars with 9 pieces of hose, all I use is the main upper and lower radiator ones, the other seven are replaced by bulk hose using the reducers. I checked the Motorcraft official parts prices as compared to bulk hose and $102 dollar savings on hoses alone! When the metal tubes finally decomposed into pieces on my Mustang II 2.3 I made up copper ones for little or nothing, they lasted the life of the car. Hint, I rebuilt the engine three times, car had like 450,000 miles on it, and one very tired Mustang II when it was all done.

Who cares whether the outlets are all the same size, they do it to make you cave in and spend more money. Not this boy.......

Well, GM has two size hoses too but they also have the matching fittings, and every Ford I've had was the same, this is the first time I've seen this it kinda threw me there,lol. I put straight bulk hose on this too got less than $10 in it, fortunately the tubes are still useable but I see making some new ones down the road, but right now it's working good with plenty of heat..

amc49 · « **Reply #114 on:** August 24, 2013, 11:09:05 PM »

Using solder and a torch you can easily solder some copper tube up to make replacement tubing, if using bulk hose it doesn't even have to be the right exact shape, just use some thinking and you can make the pipe in like 10 minutes. I've got at least one piece of copper replacement pipe on every car I drive, nowadays they want to plastic pipe every hard piece under the hood, the plastic blows out when it gets old. I can actually make a copper one for less than Ford charges for the plastic, ridiculous.

I've got a '74 Mustang II a/c radiator on my '80 Pinto wagon, not hard to get it in there at all but it hangs a bit low on the bottom.

jeremysdad · « **Reply #115 on:** August 24, 2013, 11:28:56 PM »

I say this one (amc49) is welcome.

Not that my opine means anything. But there it is.

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #116 on:** August 25, 2013, 07:41:16 AM »

Quote from: amc49 on August 24, 2013, 11:09:05 PM

Using solder and a torch you can easily solder some copper tube up to make replacement tubing, if using bulk hose it doesn't even have to be the right exact shape, just use some thinking and you can make the pipe in like 10 minutes. I've got at least one piece of copper replacement pipe on every car I drive, nowadays they want to plastic pipe every hard piece under the hood, the plastic blows out when it gets old. I can actually make a copper one for less than Ford charges for the plastic, ridiculous.

I've got a '74 Mustang II a/c radiator on my '80 Pinto wagon, not hard to get it in there at all but it hangs a bit low on the bottom.

And you can make them up a little more sanitary than the factory ones, I even thought about putting extensions on the heater core so you don't have to pop the heater box to change hoses.

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #117 on:** August 27, 2013, 10:30:19 AM »

Well, rebuilt the carb and it runs but still drooled after shut off, took it apart twice before I noticed it, whoever rebuilt it before jacked up the tang on the float and wasn't closing the seat tight, did some tweaking and it's all good now, gonna have to mess with the jetting but gotta do the ignition first.

amc49 · « **Reply #118 on:** August 27, 2013, 10:52:13 PM »

What Pinto5.0 said is correct, dunno what I was thinking. My post on trapping air is correct but if you mount the core with vertical outlets he is 100% right. I'm an idiot.

'You want the flow going in the lower inlet & out the top to avoid air pockets in the core'

X2.

74 PintoWagon · « **Reply #119 on:** August 27, 2013, 11:15:12 PM »

Quote from: amc49 on August 27, 2013, 10:52:13 PM

What Pinto5.0 said is correct, dunno what I was thinking. My post on trapping air is correct but if you mount the core with vertical outlets he is 100% right. I'm an idiot.

'You want the flow going in the lower inlet & out the top to avoid air pockets in the core'

X2.

Don't sweat it we all have our moments, LOL...

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Author Topic: Radiator Question! (Read 31301 times)