PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Shiny is Good! => Your Project => Topic started by: Reeves1 on May 24, 2013, 06:14:52 AM
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Don't like yellow ;D
Loaded up & ready to leave in the AM , near Orillia Ont.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0201_zpsa7d1e96c.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0201_zpsa7d1e96c.jpg.html)
70 KM shy of Wa Wa Ont. had a blow out on the trailer. Of course, no cell service. Had to jack the trailer & take the tire off. Then unhook the trailer & drive to Wa Wa & find a new tire. It shredded due to having to drive a couple KM to a safe place to pull over. Lost a half day due to this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0202_zps0710b7e7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0202_zps0710b7e7.jpg.html)
I left picking this car up till May to avoid winter driving conditions & salt. ::)
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When I first started the car it ran badly. Would not stay running. I could hear #5 exhaust rocker making noise.
Get it home & took the left rocker cover off. #5 had an extra jamb nut on the stud.
I had (originally) wanted to do a simple tune up & check all other items on the car so it would pass the out of Province inspection.
So I pulled the heads to check them out. They also needed new valve seals.
I have another set of heads. I'll take both sets in & get the best set rebuilt.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/8c6698a1-d1cc-4435-a1ee-36e8de9d85cc_zps03dd285b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/8c6698a1-d1cc-4435-a1ee-36e8de9d85cc_zps03dd285b.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0206_zps9f931a5f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0206_zps9f931a5f.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0207_zps08b33d7a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0207_zps08b33d7a.jpg.html)
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Sitting in my nice cool shop having a beverage, I got to thinking...... I have all kinds of 302w parts.
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake & 600 cfm Edelbrock carb. MSD dizzy & 6AL. Short water pump. Aluminum alt brackets & pulleys. Front engine mounts & Headman Headers. Car has an auto. No more, because I have all needed to put my T-5 into it.
One wire alt.
So I kept tearing stuff out. Note it has an AC unit. This will get pulled out & replaced with the heater from my blue parts car. As will the clutch/brake pedal unit.
Replacing the heater will give more clearance for the hoses.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0213_zps921b17a7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0213_zps921b17a7.jpg.html)
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It had motor mounts from a Mustang ll. The frame mounts had only one 3/8" bolt in each one ! No welds !
The original Pinto frame mounts were poorly taken out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0208_zps6f40a3f1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0208_zps6f40a3f1.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0209_zps9ddbd126.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0209_zps9ddbd126.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0210_zpsa2336789.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0210_zpsa2336789.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0211_zps16c2335f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0211_zps16c2335f.jpg.html)
Plan is to weld an 1/8" plate from behind the damage , up to close to the rad support. This will give the frame rails strength all the way up for the new front engine mounts.
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Engine bay as it was. Had an Autolight 2 bl carb. Had a plastic fan bolted to the water pump, ready to blow apart. Not using one after it goes back together. Just the electric one. I have no idea why, but the toggle switch to turn the electric fan on was next the battery ! I will hook it up to a 180 degree sensor.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/engine_zpsfc9cabd5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/engine_zpsfc9cabd5.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_00000065_zps056ee9ec.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_00000065_zps056ee9ec.jpg.html)
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Original plan was to do as little as possible & use it as a driver till the white car is done.
When the white one is done, I'll do a ground up change to this yellow one. It will be a light weight car. I have fiberglass : fenders, air dam, bumper. I'll pick a hood up for it as well. Going to gut the car. Full color change to blue (thinking maybe like the new F-150s).
Sub frames & tubs. Narrowed 9".
The engine I've been looking at is the all aluminum 351w bored & stroked to 427 from Ford Racing. 600 HP.
Not sure on trans yet.
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I remember reading on this site that the AC/heater is difficult to remove.
They were right :o
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When I got the car home I pulled the spark plugs. #5 was so gummed up it wouldn't fire.
When I pulled the heads this cyl had a puddle of oil sitting on the piston (cleaned up before pic).
Looking at the valve seals, all were up on the valve stems. Soft yet, but wrong kind ?
Getting the heads re-built. Stronger springs. New cam etc.....
#5 is the clean one on the left. Oil & not firing made it clean.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0217_1_zps26ec4b24.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0217_1_zps26ec4b24.jpg.html)
Right side. #1 on the right.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0216_zps4bfc18aa.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0216_zps4bfc18aa.jpg.html)
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For the cost of getting your iron heads rebuilt,you could probably make a substantial down-payment on a modest set of aluminums. Just a thought.
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I was thinking the same thing myself. Unless they are a late set of 60's or modern fuelie heads they wont flow worth a damn anyways. even something low end like the edelbrock e streets are a big bonus. modern chambers and aluminum for better ping suppression. You're in my neck of the woods. If you are just gonna rebuild a set of iron heads i have some big plug c90e 351w heads in the shed that you can have for 80 bucks. they are cores that need doin.
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if you want to go iron I have a pair of 351 '69 big valve gt heads already done with manley stainless valves,135seat # springs,and manley keepers. They are set up for screw in studs. I also have a fresh pair of world products iron165cc intake runners that flow like crazy.They are 1.94" intake 1.60"exhaust The shipping from the east coast might be steep,but I can use you right on the price.
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Idea for now is to keep it as cheap as I can, but still have a "fun" car to thrash.
The engine will be for 2-3 summers. Then a complete change & scrap the 302w.
Also, I'm not sure I'd trust aluminum heads with these mounts ?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/My%201972%20Pinto/IMG_1286.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/My%201972%20Pinto/IMG_1286.jpg.html)
I'll be using these headers.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/My%201972%20Pinto/IMG_1289.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/My%201972%20Pinto/IMG_1289.jpg.html)
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National head service has stock iron heads all done for about $300.00/pr. Might be less money than having your local machine shop do them, Just saying
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It can never be easy. There's always a problem that gums up the works.
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Had the rad cleaned & pressure tested : all OK.
Same for the heater core : toast.
Found a NOS one, with seals & it's on the way !
Taking the heater box (from the blue parts car) completely apart. Drilling the factory rivets out & will sand blast all the metal parts & paint. Then rivet back together.
Work is slowing things down.....
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Found & bought a set of re-built closed chamber heads for $150.00 each.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0224_zpsc7809477.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0224_zpsc7809477.jpg.html)
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Weld, grind, sand blast & prime.
Battery tray in rough shape, but useable. Will be a trunk mount in the future re-build anyway. Blasted & painted.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0237_zpse293af91.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0237_zpse293af91.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0236_zpsd2eb0125.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0236_zpsd2eb0125.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0238_zpsc37f0ff5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0238_zpsc37f0ff5.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0239_zps611dca59.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0239_zps611dca59.jpg.html)
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Picked up a tank of gas & a 10lb spool of wire for the mig.
Never welded like that before.....
Next I'll tackle the fire wall. (and that hole through the inner fender by battery)
Made some changes as well.
Moved the 2 1/2" hole for the wire harness up and to the left.
Going to move the bottom heater hose hole up & over as well.
I will also be installing a 90 degree fitting in the 2 heater hoses at the fire wall.
Hoses do not bend sharp enough.
I'll be running them sharp right, against the fire wall, along the inner fender, behind the battery (you can see where I trimmed out some of the welded on part for more clearance). Then back to the engines front right.
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Some trim work to do yet. But it gives an "idea" on what to cut out to get the (V8) moved back as far as can be, without deleting the heater.
I will be able to move the engine back an inch farther than the B2P (BOSS 302 Pinto).
I already have the piece made for the top part. Pics later.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0242_zpsbf804de6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0242_zpsbf804de6.jpg.html)
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So much for keeping it simple :o
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Funny how that works, eh ! ;D
A few simple things & it snow balls from there !
Going to move the brass brake distributor (?) up onto the inner fender, just in front of the master. Will also install a line lock. Also all new brake lines.......an d all other brake parts.
New master was found & is on the way up from the USA.
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I am sooooo hoping my '71 doesn't snowball like that. I just wanna drive it :'(
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I just wanna drive it :'(
Well, ya know the saying about that dontcha, "if it works don't fix it"... :D :D
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when installing a 302 into my 77 i had to change to a blower motor that had a shorter motor section sticking out of the firewall to clear the valve cover. Just something to consider checking before your ready to drop the motor in
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With a 302w it clears. With my B2P the guy that originally built it cut the casing & welded a small piece back in (will see if I have a picture).
I had thought about putting a short fan motor in, & may well do that in the future due to the next engine I want. When it goes through the full resto in a few years ?
Since I'm cutting & welding, I may cut the inner fenders. The bulge where the battery is & under the brake master.
This will/should allow the room needed to run headers in a normal fashion ? I'll think on this more.
I know there is lots of room on the right.
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i found some blower motors at the local surplus store that are perfect for the job and less than an inch thick. pulled the metal mounting plate off the stocker and just tacked the new one in place with its mounting tabs. installs in heater box as normal.
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i found some blower motors at the local surplus store that are perfect for the job and less than an inch thick. pulled the metal mounting plate off the stocker and just tacked the new one in place with its mounting tabs. installs in heater box as normal.
this topic has been around for a while on various builds. if you can, some pics & part #'s would go a long way toward helping out the next guy/gal with a clean install
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Found a picture of the heater motor alteration. I didn't do this....so no idea what internal mods had to be made ?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/My%201972%20Pinto/IMG_0114.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/My%201972%20Pinto/IMG_0114.jpg.html)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0242_zpsbf804de6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0242_zpsbf804de6.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0248_zpsfc0f09f1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0248_zpsfc0f09f1.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0250_zps58ac2af1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0250_zps58ac2af1.jpg.html)
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Top section welded in. I'll grind it after all welding is done.
Welding from the inside as well.
I'll get a better picture.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0251_zpsbb75a9c2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0251_zpsbb75a9c2.jpg.html)
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Fascinating. I think the 2000cc in my '73, which was recently rebuilt, might be the last go-round with a four cylinder.
I hate to say that, since the car runs well, and it'd be kind of sad to see all that stock-ness, which I've preserved for so long, go away.
But, on the other hand...
I've always wanted a 302 instead. Thing is, some of the street installations I've seen in the past seemed a bit severe, cutting out the entire front cross member for the radiator installation and removing the hood latch; solid motor mounts, etc.
I also thought the early Pintos weren't good candidates for the swap—clearly I'm mistaken. I didn't know a radiator would fit in front of the engine compartment on the early cars.
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V8 swaps can be made easy as well.
This yellow one had no fire wall mods.
No hood scoop .
No cut rad support.
But, I'm not one to leave well enough alone.
I wanted the engine back as far as possible, yet still have a heater (I'm in Canada - it was +5c yesterday).
I should be able (?) to mount the rad behind the support (where it normally goes).
I'll be using a short water pump & CVF pulleys.
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0252_zpsbb64e3c5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0252_zpsbb64e3c5.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0254_zps7836504e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0254_zps7836504e.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0255_zps6d7efc64.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0255_zps6d7efc64.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0256_zpsfafae265.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0256_zpsfafae265.jpg.html)
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Primer is just to protect the metal from rust for now.
Engine compartment will be stripped/blasted in the future , after more metal work is done.
Next I'll be working on the inner fenders.....
I took into account a 351w has a higher deck (302w is 8.2" and 351 9.5").
Some of the mods will be for the next owner ?
Brake line mods will be in the future as well......
Note I raised the bottom rad hose opening up (about) 1 1/8" - in case of a 351w in the future.
Note the wire harness hole has been moved up & to the left (right in picture). It will now clear the engine head/valve cover.
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You do know what that sharp corner is going to do to the back of your hand every time you need to work back there don't you? LOL
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I can feel it already. lol. :D
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You do know what that sharp corner is going to do to the back of your hand every time you need to work back there don't you? LOL
No room back there to "work" anyway.
When I drop the V8 in, I do so without the back plate etc.
After the back of the engine clears the cross member, I bolt all the stuff on, then move it backwards into place.
Guess I'll find out......
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Sounds like it should work.
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Have you ever tried to drop everything as a unit (engine , bellhousing,,and trans etc) as a unit
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that last post got entered before I got a chance to proof read or edit...sorry.. .. the point I was asking was wether you or anyone has stabbed or tried to stab engine,bellhousing and gearbox in one shot and what kind of luck did or didn't you have
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I have always found it easier to drop them in without anything on the front of the engine (sometimes with/without balancer) and nothing on the back.
This way the front rad support isn't cut.
Others may have better ways to do things.....
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State of dis - repair.....
Looks like an easy/simple build has gone sideways.
Going to do the full build , so is going to take some time.
It (yellow) needs everything.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0266_zps4e2559d5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0266_zps4e2559d5.jpg.html)
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Can you say SNOWBALL!! Oooff, I hope that doesn't happen to me when I get the '71 home
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Just too much wrong to do a simple / temp job.
Every rubber part is toast.
Pulled the front calipers & had a better look at the springs.
Supposed to be M II springs.
They trimmed them down with a torch, but didn't square the ends.
So they didn't stay in place.
Left one is out of place by 1/2 a turn.
I'll get new springs anyway. They are cheap.
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Yup "I'm just gonna...." always turns into a frame off in my neck of the woods too. Energy makes a nice urethane kit for the mII that is a ton better than factory rubber bushings
on a semi related note. I can't find the p/n on that fan motor we talked about. this one looks really similar except mine had 3 tabs for the bolt holes not a full flange around it. the shaft looks identical though I made a short sleeve to sit on the e clip and slightly modded the squirrel cage so i could tighten the nut then just spot welded it to a factory blower motor plate. had to shave down the lip on the inner firewall where it passes through but considering your cars are in a few pieces it's not a big stretch. also a lil time in the grainger catalogue or googling pancake motor might find a better one. I have a third one around somewhere but be damned if i can find it at the moment...
http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/printmotor222/product-detailQbfEhoKlHeYS/China-DC-Flat-Motor-Pancake-Motor-Print-Motor-.html (http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/printmotor222/product-detailQbfEhoKlHeYS/China-DC-Flat-Motor-Pancake-Motor-Print-Motor-.html)
actually this one looks almost identical
http://www.o-digital.com/wholesale-products/2179/2188-2/DC-Servo-Print-Motor-Set-100SN-Series-76115.html (http://www.o-digital.com/wholesale-products/2179/2188-2/DC-Servo-Print-Motor-Set-100SN-Series-76115.html)
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Good reminder.... I have a small fan motor in the shop. It has a flat motor.
I'll have a look at it today & take pictures.
If I can find it. With 2 Pintos torn down it looks like a parts store that has blown up !
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the one that I used is factory from the rear heater housing on a 2000 chevy tahoe (the old body) fan part fits perfect in the heater box but the motor requires holes to be drilled in the metal part of the box, I welded nuts on the inside of the box on mine, i got mine from a salvage yard, not sure if they offer a new one that comes with the blade part
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Took the car apart.
Found some other rust areas, but all should be OK after blasting.
The seams under the foot area are not good though.
Not a real problem, as I'll cut it out when I build the torque boxes.
Need mounting areas for the cage anyway.
Worst area is the cowl/box in front of the windshield.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0275_zps3f45d7ce.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0275_zps3f45d7ce.jpg.html)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0274_zps4c828a1e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0274_zps4c828a1e.jpg.html)
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Some of the yuk you see is the felt like stuff stuck to the body.
All seams will be welded.
Thinking about acid dipping the body.
Doors maybe as well. Depends on what I can find for glass doors.
Forgot to take a picture of what I found inside the left door.
Window had been broken & a lot of glass was still in the door !
When I took the door off & laid it down there was a lot of noise.....all cleaned up now.
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Acid dipping is a really ugly way to strip a body and tends to create more problems than it solves unless you spend a lot of time neutralizing it and burning out all the seams with a torch afterwards. It was considered a good method for stripping that thankfully went out of vogue about 20 years ago. You are much further ahead to have the top side media blasted with soda or walnut and have the bottom done with sand at low pressure to peel all the rust off. etch prime the top and por the bottom immediately after before any body work and you will be further ahead than trying to stabilize a dipped body. incidentally i found the spare blower motor in the pile. delco 5050080 and 349-90 are the p/n's on it.
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I would NOT acid dip the body, problem is the acid gets into places that are impossible to get at afterwards and you're left with bare metal that can't be treated, depending on the climate you could have a rust bucket in no time..
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Good info on the acid dip. Thanks guys !
OhSix9 - wrote numbers down & will order it Tuesday.
Thank you !
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Coil springs are supposed to be MII springs. Seems right. But they were cut with a cutting torch & the heat at the cut off & the next coil above will have changed them.
Not to mention one is 3" longer than the other = junk.
With the rounded ends, they wouldn't stay in the right location. Both sides had turned about a half turn.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0280_zpsbc5d620a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0280_zpsbc5d620a.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0281_zps7fccb028.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0281_zps7fccb028.jpg.html)
I will get now ones.
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R.F. shock as it "fell" out when un-bolted.
Crap found inside left door.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0279_zpsf654235b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0279_zpsf654235b.jpg.html)
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Without springs, it's too low for the jack.....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0284_zps21c2dcf1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0284_zps21c2dcf1.jpg.html)
So, the temp cure for springs....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0287_zpsa8c3410b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0287_zpsa8c3410b.jpg.html)
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Awesome and inspiring project. You work much faster than I good sir! :P
I have always found it easier to drop them in without anything on the front of the engine (sometimes with/without balancer) and nothing on the back.
This way the front rad support isn't cut.
Others may have better ways to do things.....
I'm pretty sure that's what was done with my cleveland. At least that's what I had to do in reverse to get it out and I tried reallllly hard to take it out as one unit.
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Rough area on the left inner fender I'm thinking about cutting out. I'd replace it with new metal at a straight angle towards the top of the cut out. Inside the green tape.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0289_zps421db17a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0289_zps421db17a.jpg.html)
Same on the right side.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0288_zpsbe52cf0c.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0288_zpsbe52cf0c.jpg.html)
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I like watching your progress, this is addicting! LOL
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this article is great. sorry for dumb question, but could you tell me or anyone else for that matter, where i can get some motor mounts like you pictured? thanks for posting this project and good luck..
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Speedway Motors has those front mount kits.
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thanks for quick response..
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Skeeter88
Parts list for the mounts:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1962-1994-Small-Block-Ford-289-302-Engine-Mount,6724.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1928-1934-Ford-Frame-Adapters,77.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Bolt-Through-Engine-Mount-Cushion-Kit,1199.html
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Got the glass fenders & air dam(s) home.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0350_zps680a38b5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0350_zps680a38b5.jpg.html)
The 3 air dams missed a silver bullet ! Fork lift came very close to touching them !
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0352_zpsb9c0d578.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0352_zpsb9c0d578.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0351_zps370ea674.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0351_zps370ea674.jpg.html)
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Wow, that was lucky,lol..
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Ugly was stuffed into my new 20' x 15' storage barn for the winter.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/IMG_0328_zps565fa044.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/IMG_0328_zps565fa044.jpg.html)
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Nice storage barn.
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Will look better after I get all the trim & vinyl siding on it ! Plus the roller door. Next summer project....
Lawn grade went two ways, towards the back left corner in that picture.
I laid filter cloth down. Then built a 4" x 4" pressure treated frame.
Then another frame the same, on the outside of the first one.
Then 3/4" crush inside (all 4x4s are pegged down with 2' rebar).
Then raised & leveled the inside frame, pounding crush under it.
Each corner has a 4' screw in pile , to tie it all down as well.
It's not moving ! ;D
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Wow, you expecting Tornadoes, lol, that's one stout building..
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NOS 1972-79 Pinto Bobcat Cowl Vent Air Outlet Duct Passenger Side - got it for $25.00
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/_57_zpscca3610c.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/_57_zpscca3610c.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/back_zpsaa46d435.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/back_zpsaa46d435.jpg.html)
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Nice find, tried to find one for mine finally did get a used one in decent shape..
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As mentioned, this one is being made so a 9.5 deck 351w will fit.
Found a smoke'n deal on an intake like this one : http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/edl-2981/overview/make/ford
No idea if that type engine will end up in it. Just want to make sure if a future owner wants to do so, it will fit no problem.
I'll have to pick up other engine parts over time for this. Like a junk block, junk heads & a good pan.
I'll be getting hold of Milodon to see about that, in the future.
Looking at rotisseries now.....when I should be saving cash for the white car !
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Buying this rotisserie Friday morning......s ale is for 949.95 - bottom of page
http://www.kmstools.com/eflyer/#page17
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Picture , if you will .....
Back in 69/70a guy with a 351w blowed up his engine.
Crank broke at the 1/5 journal. Broke the block & lots of other damage.
He took it apart , tossed it into the bush.
There it sat , till he gave it to me so I could mock up a 351w for test fitting in Ugly Yellow.
Need to know if the fire wall mods are done right...or changes will be needed.
Intake is an Edelbrock Victor JR - picked up real cheap. It had been painted Ford blue , then silver.
Took a few coats of paint stripper & a few hours in a hot tank to clean it up.
Didn't want a rust pile sitting in the shop.....sand blasted & painted....... wife says it is a waste of time and money ::) ;D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0472_zps05c8f8f7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0472_zps05c8f8f7.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0471_zps254e2cb8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0471_zps254e2cb8.jpg.html)
I will soon have an 8 qt. Mildon pan to add to this.
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Nice mock up piece. :D
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Nice work.
Thinking about a 302 for my 73 wagon but want the conversion as simple as possible since it is at our Winter location and I would either be paying for the work or doing it in my carport.
You mentioned that the original install used MII motor mounts but only had one bolt installed. Do you have any photos of the MII mounts as they were installed?
Are MII mounts with more bolts the best way to go for a simple as possible install?
I couldn't tell from the picture if other mods were needed to get it in. Mine is an auto and not sure if it's C3 or 4. Would an adapter be needed to mate the two? I know I would need to upgrade the rear to an 8". Guessing the headers would also be a trick.
Thanks
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Lots of ways to do a V8 swap.....and the Mll mounts would be a last choice for me.
They off set an engine 1 3/4" (I think that is what I measured).
73 will require fire wall mods. How much depends on what you want to do.
This Ugly car is getting mods for a 351w - even though I'm not sure what will end up in the car.
If it's a 302w, there will just be more clearance. Plus the option for a future owner to put a 351w into it.
Easier to do the mods one time.....
If you want an auto, go with a built C4 (or better) from the get go.
Not cheap to build these now & if you try to cheap out you'll end up with what you pay for.
Headers are problematic now : no longer made for them. Although, sometimes you can scoop some up for sale - usually the Hookers (through the inner fenders for the back 2 tubes on each side).
I have a couple sets of the Headman ones, with the flat collectors.
One set had been on an engine, but never on the road.
Another NOS set , that may be for 351w. I have yet to measure them : they'll be a bit over an inch taller than the others, if for a 351w.
Custom headers (up here in Alberta) range from $150.00 to $3000.00.
The ones for my B2 car will likely run top end, as the tubes will be mandrel bends. Not a bunch of angles welded together.
I'm still thinking of putting a V8 swap kit together for sale.
Complete from a built 302w (to 331 stroker).
Mounts, headers, bell, T-5 etc.
Not sure if I'll get it done.....big $ to spend on the B2 car yet......
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You V8 guys are making it hard for me to be happy with my little 2.3. :(
But I do have to go cheap for now at least, so 2.3 it stays. :-[
But I will be remembering those Speedway mounts later on. Those are really neat. ;D And a really good price for the total setup. 8)
Do you feel the Pinto front subframe is strong enough for them where they bolt on, or did you reinforce that area and I just missed it?
thanks,
Russ
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I strengthened the frame rails (pictures earlier ?).
With front mounts I'd use a mid mount as well.
Main reason I've not made a "kit" yet is the price I'd have to charge.
Built 302w about 5-8k +
Headers about 1.5k +
Bell, trans & other related parts about 1k - 1.5k +
Test fitted motor mounts .5k (ish ?)
I think you get the idea......buil ding a car in Canada (or anywhere now) is not cheap.
(SFI bell for my B2 was over .5k and is now out of date - yet has never been on a running engine)
As I pointed out to another member, take a lower ball joint.
States cost to me is about $50.00. Add in the $ exchange. Then GST & duty at the border. Then shipping....ad d $ for exchange rate.
Shipping $ only (seems) to get it to the border.
When I pick the parts up (no matter how shipped) this $50.00 part then costs me another 30-40 bucks, above & beyond the above prices = at least 3-4 times what you would pay.
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Moved the car out of storage & into the shop.
Tired of moving the tractor out of the shop anyway.
Shop fridge is full, so worked on that ;D
While sitting there , looking at the ugly beast , thinking of how much work is needed.... I am wondering if I have some sort of mental problem :o
One thing I'll be looking into is a 12v heater. To be road legal it needs a defroster. If it will cut weight. It would also end the clearance issue with the heater motor: never did find a short one.
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You could run a small one like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261453896562?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261453896562?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
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Doubt it has any weight savings. Looks like it has a heater core.
I looked earlier on line & looked at a few small units. What I looked at is not (so far) what I'm seeing in my head :o
;D
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My 73 came with A/C & I saved the box since the blower motor is inside the car. I want to dig into it & see how much I can eliminate & just use the box for heat. It's fiberglass rather than plastic so I can do some modding to it relatively easily.
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B2 engine is still not back.....been a year now >:(
I picked up a few parts over time to mock up a 351w to test fit in the car.
I have 2 sets of Headers. Going to use the NOS set for this "test".
I measured the two sets and both measure up the same. So not likely meant for the taller 351w.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0521_zps2619a08b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0521_zps2619a08b.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0522_zps9e25f415.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0522_zps9e25f415.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0523_zpsd0311d4c.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0523_zpsd0311d4c.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0524_zps3a8dcb23.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0524_zps3a8dcb23.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0525_zps4b09ba46.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0525_zps4b09ba46.jpg.html)
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Forgot to clean the tape residue off the pan ! Not banged up like it looks, although it's used.
Headers and front mounts will be removed when dropping the engine in.
If anyone has used those front mounts for any length of time, please post how well they worked for you.
Any leak problems ? Stay tight ? Cracked heads ?
Thinking about a different type of front mount.......pl us mid mount.
I'll also test fit with a T-5 I have here. Depending on time etc I may test fit with my T-10 as well.
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That type of mount is what Ford flathead and Chebbeys V-8's had on them back in the days. All of the possible stress would be on the bell housing at the area where it and the block come together. Mid plate should fix that. I've seen a zillion 55/57 Chebbeys without the mid plate / mounts they came with, running at the drags with no problems. Only one way to know for sure.
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OK......had thought I thunk out the fire wall mods better :o
With aluminum bell that came with the T-5, the ribs hit way too soon.
When planning out the cuts I wanted to keep the heater, yet remove as much as I could.
I'll have to install the heater to see how much more can be taken out.
Also have to trim out more by the back left intake bolt.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0527_zps221ea166.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0527_zps221ea166.jpg.html)
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The Headers you see mounted on the engine (and the other set I have) will not work on a 351w.
I had test fit the front mounts and (other) Headers in my white car. Worked OK.
These next pictures show they are too high, and the pan is sitting on the rack.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0530_zps18d49543.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0530_zps18d49543.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0529_zps2ac0e8f8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0529_zps2ac0e8f8.jpg.html)
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Recall I moved the hole for the main wire harness up & over ?
It was behind the head before. Now clears the engine.
There will be even more clearance with a 302w.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0528_zpsd8b999a3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0528_zpsd8b999a3.jpg.html)
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I didn't bother test fitting any trans. I knew I had to mod the tunnel more anyway.
But I did measure from the Quicktime bell back to the shifter hole.
The way it is now, a T-5 will bolt right in without having to cut that hole forward.
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Had some spare time , so using my spot weld bit, I drilled out nearly 100 spot welds and two bead welds.
I knew there were more rust issues. Didn't know there are three rust through spots.
All fixable though.
The heater funnel will be removed & a plate welded in : this car will get a small, light electric heater.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0539_zpsbatu07yb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0539_zpsbatu07yb.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0540_zpslgjisgwa.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0540_zpslgjisgwa.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0541_zps9darwmhw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0541_zps9darwmhw.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0542_zpsavtpkful.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0542_zpsavtpkful.jpg.html)
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FYI....
Had a set of front mounts bolted to a 351w (mock up engine for test fitting).
Sitting there having a refreshment , thought: looks like if I take the one from the front left, it should work on the back right.
I'll (one day) drop the engine in the car to see where they match up with the frame rail.
If it fits OK, will be a good way to mount the engine.
I held a set of Headman Headers up to the ports. Fits OK.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0543_zpsm4t7jrib.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0543_zpsm4t7jrib.jpg.html)
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Had some spare time , so using my spot weld bit, I drilled out nearly 100 spot welds and two bead welds.
I knew there were more rust issues. Didn't know there are three rust through spots.
All fixable though.
The heater funnel will be removed & a plate welded in : this car will get a small, light electric heater.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0539_zpsbatu07yb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0539_zpsbatu07yb.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0540_zpslgjisgwa.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0540_zpslgjisgwa.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0541_zps9darwmhw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0541_zps9darwmhw.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/DerrickJB/Yellow%2072/IMG_0542_zpsavtpkful.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/DerrickJB/media/Yellow%2072/IMG_0542_zpsavtpkful.jpg.html)
Ahh so that's what's under the skin. I'll need to do that to mine to straighten the slots on my vent intake (Don't ask, it was a lack of hood pins. :P ) No heater, but I see potential for a neat cowl intake and rust remediation with roll cage install.
Pintosopher, never trust a car guythat reeks of Doob at 7am, you might lose your self control.
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Never going to finish this car.
As soon as I know I will not need anything from it......it will have to go. Along with some other stuff......
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Bummer, sorry to hear that..