Author Topic: The Baby (aka the copper queen) (Read 34240 times)

blupinto · « **Reply #90 on:** February 02, 2009, 09:44:17 PM »

;DAs a matter of fact I saw the new pix of yours a few minutes ago. She's a dandy. Yours reminds me a little of the Pinto I Could've Got (if Mom hadn't vetoed it!) The one I could've had was a medium blue metallic with the whole glass hatch and automatic. The car lot only wanted $750 or something like that in 1989. Mom liked the Yugo there (gag!) but we settled for the '81 Capri. The one that burned up. I'll bet the '78 would still be around if Mom let me have it.

Tell me about your boy named Sue.

I was also advised that since I'm replacing the timing belt anyway I should also replace the water pump too.

discolives78 · « **Reply #91 on:** February 02, 2009, 09:54:02 PM »

It is a good idea and a good time to replace the water pump. My water pump came from Napa the second year I had her, and has about 4 years and 12,000 miles under it's belt.

I had a dream. A friend of mine's dog was having puppies, and I was picking from the litter. I held a white puppy that glowed and that song was playing on the stereo when I woke up. Two weeks later, my friend told me his dog was pregnant, and asked if I knew anyone that wanted a puppy. The rest is history.

A good place to start with the timing belt is removing the grille, draining and removing the radiator, and removing the fan and fan belt.

Chuck :afro:

blupinto · « **Reply #92 on:** February 02, 2009, 10:16:01 PM »

BTW, I have to have these stores order the belt 'cause they don't keep them in stock.

blupinto · « **Reply #93 on:** February 12, 2009, 12:27:25 AM »

I've taken the plunge: I've started Project Timing Belt. So far I was able to loosen the alternator and the smog pump (with a little help from the neighbor on the smog pump) and drained the radiator. I discovered the lower radiator hose looks a lot older than the upper one, so I'll be replacing that. What ground my progress to a halt was the transmission cooling lines. There are two nuts on each line (get your minds outta the gutter folks! lol!) and I want to say that I "hold" one in place while I loosen the other one. Well, it's not working, and I'm afraid to force it. Am I doing this right? I want to remove the radiator as Chuck suggested.

blupinto · « **Reply #94 on:** February 12, 2009, 12:37:39 AM »

While I'm here I want to ask a couple more questions:
Is there a way a novice sewer like me can fix my back seat and headliner where the threads are actually coming apart? I have needles and thread (not upholstery thread) but do I need to soften the fabrics before I attempt this? I've kinda tried to pull the headliner pieces back together but I'm afraid I'll rip a hole in the fabric because it's so tight.

discolives78 · « **Reply #95 on:** February 12, 2009, 01:03:40 AM »

use a 1500w heat gun or a hair dryer on high to soften the vinyl and make it more pliable. on the back seat, take it out and flip it over, use an awl or small pick to remove the staples from the backside top edge so you can hold up the material and stitch from behind. on the headliner, use a curved needle. I had to stitch a few places on mine, I just used ordinary thread. Don't pull too hard on the material, remember that it's old!

Chuck

dave1987 · « **Reply #96 on:** February 12, 2009, 08:41:41 AM »

I had to sew my headliner back together too. It isn't beautiful, but it keeps it off my head and out of my face!

My back seat is torn in the same place yours is. Mine is too brittle to attempt any repairs on though.

I have good rear seat vinyl from the 77bobcat I parted out last summer, I may attempt panel replacement if Chuck would like to give me some guidance though.

pintogirl · « **Reply #97 on:** February 12, 2009, 11:04:10 AM »

Quote from: blupinto on February 12, 2009, 12:27:25 AM

I've taken the plunge: I've started Project Timing Belt. So far I was able to loosen the alternator and the smog pump (with a little help from the neighbor on the smog pump) and drained the radiator. I discovered the lower radiator hose looks a lot older than the upper one, so I'll be replacing that. What ground my progress to a halt was the transmission cooling lines. There are two nuts on each line (get your minds outta the gutter folks! lol!) and I want to say that I "hold" one in place while I loosen the other one. Well, it's not working, and I'm afraid to force it. Am I doing this right? I want to remove the radiator as Chuck suggested.

I'm not seeing a reason to pull the radiator!

I may be wrong on this, because I'm not a mechanic, but I would think to replace the belt all you would have to do is loosen the tenstioner (sp) and R&R the belt! Hubby just "re timed" my car and had to R&R the belt to do it, and he left the radiator in place!! I have a 2.0 though so maybe mine is different, isn't yours a 2.3? (sorry I don't recall

) I have never seen a 2.3 in person so maybe the belt is different??

I'm glad you are working on the 'copper queen'!! Can't wait to hear you say that you are driving it!!

phils toys · « **Reply #98 on:** February 12, 2009, 11:09:10 AM »

Quote from: blupinto on February 12, 2009, 12:27:25 AM

I've taken the plunge: I've started Project Timing Belt. So far I was able to loosen the alternator and the smog pump (with a little help from the neighbor on the smog pump) and drained the radiator. I discovered the lower radiator hose looks a lot older than the upper one, so I'll be replacing that. What ground my progress to a halt was the transmission cooling lines. There are two nuts on each line (get your minds outta the gutter folks! lol!) and I want to say that I "hold" one in place while I loosen the other one. Well, it's not working, and I'm afraid to force it. Am I doing this right? I want to remove the radiator as Chuck suggested.

Get some pb blaster and squirt it in the back of the nut wnere the line goes in . Let it soak for a while then get emery cloth (fine sand paper)and sand the line sort of polish it. Try to losen the line again working it slowly by loosen about half turn then tighen again loosen ect... untill it moves freely.
Phil

blupinto · « **Reply #99 on:** February 12, 2009, 12:03:20 PM »

So is it the longer nut that moves and the short one stationary? I've never had to deal with cooling lines before (except to mourn the breaking of the blue Pinto's line) so I'm really dumb about this.

Well Kim, you should've heard the muttering going on yesterday as I was trying to figure out how to get the AC belt off. the AC belt, naturally, prevents the other belts from being removed. Mine is a 2.3. As I recall my '72 2.0 had WAY more working room (believe me- i resisted the radiator drop. I'm deathly afraid I'll screw something up! lol. ) and I don't remember her having a smog pump and I know she lacked an AC unit. That alone frees up some serious space. Also, that lower hose is crappy so I need to replace it before I go any real distance, much less to Knotts! I can't access that clamp at the engine block, so it has to be done. Plus, I want to replace the water pump.

discolives78 · « **Reply #100 on:** February 12, 2009, 02:17:58 PM »

I like to remove the radiator so it's easier to get the long bolts that hold the fan on out of the water pump. My car is a 2.3 4 speed, so I have no trans lines to contend with. My car also has no p/s and no a/c so my engine bay is fairly clear of clutter, however I am using a fan from an a/c car for better cooling here in the desert. If you can get to the necessary stuff to access the belt without removing the radiator, then by all means, skip this step. I just like to have a lot of elbow room.

Chuck

pintogirl · « **Reply #101 on:** February 12, 2009, 04:51:43 PM »

Just went and looked at a 77 Pinto with a 2.3! I see what you mean by not much room!!!!!

I would take out the radiator!!! LOL

dave1987 · « **Reply #102 on:** February 12, 2009, 05:51:16 PM »

When I reset my timing belt early last year, I drained the radiator and removed the top hose. Then pulled the fan and pulley off, and then removed the timing belt covers. Once that was done, it was just a matter of loosening the idler pulley/tensioner and removing the belt. The reverse procedure to put it all back together.

I also have access to ratcheting wrenches, which helped immensely when getting to the belt cover bolts around the thermostat housing, and behind the crank pulley. They are made by GearWrench and available at Sears. So far they have proved to be a very worthy investment!

pintogirl · « **Reply #103 on:** February 12, 2009, 05:53:36 PM »

Quote from: dave1987 on February 12, 2009, 05:51:16 PM

I also have access to ratcheting wrenches, which helped immensely when getting to the belt cover bolts around the thermostat housing, and behind the crank pulley. They are made by GearWrench and available at Sears. So far they have proved to be a very worthy investment!

Oh yah, I love those wrenches!!! I have metric and american with the standard and stubby sizes!!!!! Don't leave home with out them!! Well, ok I do, but not when going to wrecking yards!!! LOL

Well worth the money!!!!

blupinto · « **Reply #104 on:** February 12, 2009, 11:07:31 PM »

I didn't have a chance to work on her today but I did spray some lubricant on the nuts in question to soak overnight. Meanwhile I'll hope for a sunny day tomorrow. I don't have power steering in her but there really is a bunch of stuff. THe 2.0 had miles of room! The lower hose is on order so sometime tomorrow I'll have that, plus I purchased some radiator flush because the fluid that came out of mine had a distinctly brownish tint.

dave1987 · « **Reply #105 on:** February 12, 2009, 11:22:24 PM »

I wonder how much it costs to have the radiator pressure tested.

My dad and me had mine flushed, sealed and painted before i put my car back together again. I know mine had really trashed fins on it, but I don't recall any leaks. I think it was around $120 for the work done.

blupinto · « **Reply #106 on:** February 13, 2009, 12:03:52 AM »

That's a good question. Mine doesn't currently have a leak (knock on wood). I ran her a few days ago to charge her new battery before I started on this daunting journey and leak-wise she was good. My hope now is when I reassemble what I disassembled that the result is the same.

blupinto · « **Reply #107 on:** February 13, 2009, 06:55:15 PM »

Grrrr. I'm now at a stalemate. The whole project seems to hang on those two cooling lines, both of which the nuts won't budge. I can't replace the timing belt or put in the new water pumpo because I can't get the fan out because the fan's bolts are too long because the radiator's close to the fan and I can't remove the radiator because those dumb nuts won'd budge!!! I soaked them in WD40 overnight andf spritzed them a couple times today and all I've managed to do was round out the short nut on one side.

pintogirl · « **Reply #108 on:** February 13, 2009, 07:02:57 PM »

Try going to an autoparts store and getting some "Nut Cracker" or penatrating oil! It works alot better and actually works it's way into the threads!!!!

discolives78 · « **Reply #109 on:** February 13, 2009, 07:11:08 PM »

Hold the one closest to the radiator and turn the one furthest from the radiator counterclockwi se. under the larger of the two is a flare fitting.

Sorry about the crude drawing, I'm a visual learner

pintogirl · « **Reply #110 on:** February 13, 2009, 07:13:32 PM »

Quote from: discolives78 on February 13, 2009, 07:11:08 PM

Hold the one closest to the radiator and turn the one furthest from the radiator counterclockwi se. under the larger of the two is a flare fitting.

Sorry about the crude drawing, I'm a visual learner

LOL that is a great drawing!!!!! LOL

discolives78 · « **Reply #111 on:** February 13, 2009, 07:16:24 PM »

It's kinda like the water line from the ice maker to the wall, same concept. I thought you were going to try it without pulling the radiator? :lol:

Chuck :afro:

blupinto · « **Reply #112 on:** February 13, 2009, 10:36:01 PM »

I did try to do it w/out removing the Pain In The A-uh radiator but the water pump is behind the fan and I can't remove the fan because the bolts that hold the fan on the fly wheel (?) are slightly longer than the space between the fan and the radiator (naturally! lol.) Plus, I seem unable to remove the belt with the fan there.

I went to Kragen to pick up the lower radiator hose (another reason to remove the radiator) and one of the guys suggested ATF, type F or Dexron/Mercon. If nothing else I'll have to cut the line and insert special rubber transmission cooling line hose and new ends in their place. The guy I was talking to has a '71 Maverick that he did this with because his cooling lines broke.

blupinto · « **Reply #113 on:** February 13, 2009, 10:44:21 PM »

Actually, Chuck, that's a better drawing than either Chilton's or Haynes had! lol. As it turns out I also had to remove the horn assembly to get to the lower left bolt holding the radiator in place.

because I have already begun rounding the stationary nut I think it's a good idea to not try that method (the normal way) anymore. Ideas, suggestions please!

discolives78 · « **Reply #114 on:** February 13, 2009, 11:07:06 PM »

flare nut wrenches. these are for brake/fuel etc with similar fittings

Chuck

dave1987 · « **Reply #115 on:** February 13, 2009, 11:18:27 PM »

If the nut is rounded, I have used a set of lock jaw pliers/vice grips to clamp down on the nut and turn it. This is how I had to remove the steel pump to carb fuel line that I have in storage so I could have it reproduced. Granted the place I had it reproduced did not make it right, but that is another story.

blupinto · « **Reply #116 on:** February 13, 2009, 11:49:54 PM »

I'm afraid I don't have those kind of wrenches at my disposal, and thanks to Arnold the Governator they won't be in my budget anytime soon.

I have used channel locks to unfasten the oil drain plug on my Rodeo because that bolt was getting rounded. I'll give that a try before I perform a rubberdectomy.

discolives78 · « **Reply #117 on:** February 13, 2009, 11:58:52 PM »

Try using vise-grips instead of channel locks, tighten them until it takes most of your might to clamp them on the offending fitting, you may have a chance at not making it too much worse.

phils toys · « **Reply #118 on:** February 14, 2009, 02:56:14 AM »

Last winter i replaced the water pump on my bobcat (ac, smog, power steering) and did not have to remove the radiator. it was a pain to get the bolts out of the fan. and the smog pump and its bracket had to come off to replace the lower hose. If you do have to cut the lines make sure to double clamp the rubber hose on each end on the low pressure side it don't matter but the high pressure side may leak. living in a RUST zone we learn a lot of home repairs.
The atf trick should work as well it broke free a seized motor in a few minutes that i had been playing with for a few weeks and could not budge. i put the tranny fluid in and by the time i got back with the tools it had mad the difference.
phil

blupinto · « **Reply #119 on:** February 14, 2009, 08:02:51 PM »

Happily the atf thing worked!!! Thank you Phil for further endorsing that. What a relief it was when first one, then the other nut broke the tenacious hold onto their respective mates. The next hurdle was getting the fan pulley off the water pump. Then the pump itself wasn't moving for love or money (I'm getting the idea that the Baby wants to keep all her parts, warts and all! lol.). The W.P. gasket is no more so I'll be picking that up tonight. The sky here is cloudless now but there's rumored to be another storm tomorrow, so I'll resume this later.

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Author Topic: The Baby (aka the copper queen) (Read 34240 times)