PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Shiny is Good! => Your Project => Topic started by: JoeBob on September 25, 2011, 11:56:41 PM
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If this was a perfect world, I would just unbolt the bumper brackets from the frame, push the bumpers into back to an attractive position, and bolt them back on. Believe it or not that is exactly what you can do. Ford has put holes in the frame to allow you to do just that. It is not exactly easy. The front bumper took me 2 hours. The back took 6 hours.
Take off the front bumper and the brackets. Drill a new mounting hole in the bracket as seen the photo.
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view¤t=drillhole.jpg&newest=1
The bracket mount will fit too close to the radiator frame to leave the bolt in this position. Reattach the brackets in the retracted position, using the bolt hole in the second position for your first bolt. Now a hole in the frame lines up perfectly with your second bolt. See second photo.
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view¤t=relocarion3.jpg
This hole does not have an attached bolt. Behind this position you will see an oblong hole. Review photo. Using a stiff wire make a loop around a nut, hot glue it to secure it to the wire. Photo.
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view¤t=nuttrick.jpg
Fish it through the oblong hole to line up with the bolt, tighten down. Reassemble the bumper. Done.
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view¤t=DSC02747.jpg
For some reason the mounting frame for the radiator on passenger side was ¼ inch too far forward to allow the bracket to fit properly. A light tap with a sledge hammer moved it back into the correct position. See photo. red tape shows where I hit with the hammer. http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view¤t=radiatortap.jpg
Back bumper retraction is more complicated. In addition to basic tools you will need 24 inches of socket extensions. Get some from your friends before you start. Some touch-up paint will also be helpful. Jack up car just in front of back wheel and set on jack stands. See photo.
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view¤t=DSC02783.jpg
Detach shocks. Remove bumper, and rubber valance. Remove bolts from bracket and leaf spring mount and let down. Cut out the bridge plate shown in the next photo.Bridge plate has 2 small holes with larger hole in the center. http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view¤t=strap.jpg
Cut off the last hole on the mounting bracket where it protrudes beyond the back of the car. Photo.
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view¤t=DSC02785.jpg
Take bolt clips from hole cutoffs and fit holes in the area where you cut out the bridge plate.. ( very difficult ) Before you bolt everything back in fit bumper bolt through the top hole, tape it in place so that it does not drop out wile you are working. You will not be able to fit this though after brackets are attached. Attach brackets and springs. finished position
http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view¤t=DSC02800.jpg
You might want to put masking tape on sides of body where bumper wraps around. Photo. http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view¤t=DSC02795.jpg
It is easy to rub bumper on body wile working, this will prevent scratching. By the way. This applies to front as well. Paint the mounting plates with touch-up paint as they will show a little after work is done. Mount bumper with bottom bolts, loose, just a few threads. Fit socket extensions together, Tape them together so you wont lose one. On drivers side from in front of the back tire, slide socket extensions over the top of the filler neck and slip own the channel onto the top bumper bolt. Tighten down. On passenger side you will need to take a pliers and bend a little of the sheet metal fender liner to allow for the socket to slide down the channel. Tighten down bottom bolts. Reattach the shocks. You are done. The mounting holes of the bumper valance show. I took round top bolts and painted them with touch-up paint. Tightened bolts in to fill the holes. Looks like manufacturer bolted something in ,from the factory. Photos http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view¤t=DSC02790.jpg job finished
Special thanks to Moonman for valuable help. I know it is long but worth it
Good luck
Bill
If anyone does this I would love to know. Post photos.
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Hi. I was going to PM you, but I couldn't manage to quote from the above in the PM. Besides, this should be up top anyways. ;D
I want to do this, but I have a few questions about the rear bumper, if you don't mind.
" Remove bumper," I am assuming you mean "from the mounting brackets, leaving brackets attached to car" at this point?
You said "Cut out the bridge plate shown in the next photo.Bridge plate has 2 small holes with larger hole in the center." Did you mean to cut out the center of this plate, leaving what is welded to the frame in place? If so, since this is where the nut clips go, would it be better to grind off the welded part, or would that leave the area too weak? Maybe just grind out where the nut clips go to make them fit easier?
Again, you said "Cut off the last hole on the mounting bracket where it protrudes beyond the back of the car." I am assuming you mean all four?
Again, (sorry, I am not able to visualize a lot of this) "Before you bolt everything back in fit bumper bolt through the top hole, tape it in place so that it does not drop out wile you are working. You will not be able to fit this though after brackets are attached." Where is this top hole located? And is it just one per side, or two? And can the bumper be removed and reattached after all this is done?
I think those were the major sticking points I have.
Thanks again for posting this info in the first place.
Russ
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It has been several years since I did this. Give me a couple of days to review and refresh myself as to what I did.
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Dear Russ
The answer to the first question is yes. leave brackets on car. Second I did not grind. I bet it would be easier if you did. It was very tough to get the clips on at this point. I did not happen to think of grinding. It worked out ok the way I did it. Yes cut off all four. There are 2 bolts per side that attach the bumper to the iron mounting plate. Put the top bolts through the iron plate and tape in place before you assemble.
Before I did this back bumper, I posted a photo of the bridge plate and posed the question. "I want to cut this out, does anyone know a reason I should not cut it, and if I do, does anyone see a reason I can not mount my bumper this way? Moonman did not just answer my question but he mounted his bumper in the way I proposed. It was my idea, but he did it first. Moonman pointed out that he had problems with this bolt and had to tape it in place, as I now recommend.
The bumper can be detached. Mounting and removing it requires 24" of socket extensions, so it takes patience and time. I hope I never need to remove it.
After I posted this I received few comments. To the best of my knowledge, no one else has done it. I thought everyone would love the idea, but I guess not.
I worked my way through this just trial and error. I think it will explain it's self as you go. You may even find better ways of doing things than I found.
Good luck
Bill
Sending P.M.
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Thanks!
I know that there is at least one more person wanting to do this your way, he posted the link to this in response to a question I had posted.
I for one really appreciate your taking the time to post this originally and for the time to answer my questions. ;D
I have removed the front bumper, just need to drill the holes. Hoping to get that done and at least start on the rear this week.
Just wanted to double check on the removal. I will be doing this mod now, but will need to remove the bumper whenever it is time to paint the car. Might be years. :(
I also got your PM. I really appreciate that. 8)
Thanks, again!
Russ
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I'll be doing the same thing with mine too, can't stand them bumpers sticking out there. >:(
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Exactly.
I just wish there was a simple way to cut down on the weight. That piece behind the bumper (reinforcement?) weighs a ton.
But at least this way it will look so much better.
Russ
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I'm sure with some thought something could be made to replace it with something lighter.
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Aluminum 77/78 bumpers. Same shape.
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Thanks!
Didn't know that.
Russ
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Thanks!
Worth looking into.
Russ
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Great info guys, looks like it's not a hard project after all..
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Jack! Tell us about the air dam. Looking good like a Pinto should.
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Thanks Jack. I'm going to come up with about the same idea on mine. I'll use 1/8" ABS plastic and a big heat gun to form it around the fenders. Now you need to get it LOW.
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I understand Racer Walsh does not sell the 1" blocks anymore. I think the blocks for a Ranger PU are the same with the oval boss that fits into the spring pads. You must have that boss to keep the rear end in place. With only 1" blocks the stock u bolts will still work. Go for it!!!!
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Now THAT'S a gorgeous yellow Bobcat! Beautiful car!!
Chris
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For anyone that wants to see what this looks like on a pinto instead of a bobcat here are my results
(http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums/q514/clydesdale80/IMG_0635_zpse88f4334.jpg) (http://s1161.photobucket.com/user/clydesdale80/media/IMG_0635_zpse88f4334.jpg.html)
(http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums/q514/clydesdale80/IMG_0636_zpsa7527c00.jpg) (http://s1161.photobucket.com/user/clydesdale80/media/IMG_0636_zpsa7527c00.jpg.html)
I think it looks angry in this pic ^... I like it ;D
(http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums/q514/clydesdale80/IMG_0637_zpsab49d1ac.jpg) (http://s1161.photobucket.com/user/clydesdale80/media/IMG_0637_zpsab49d1ac.jpg.html)
This is a 78 ( aluminum bumpers 8) ) but I swapped out my headlight rings for the early style.
Also if you would like to make the bumper install easier and eliminate the use of excessive ratchet extensions then just bolt the mount to the bumper before bolting the mounts to the car. a box wrench can then be used to loosen the bumper bolts just enough to level and adjust the bumper.
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That looks good, and thanks for the tip..
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That looks good, and thanks for the tip..
There you go Art, now you can lose those bumpers you don't like :-D
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Yep, looks 200% better.. :D
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Yep, looks 200% better.. :D
Yeah, really an awesome look!!!!
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Yeah, really an awesome look!!!!
Yeah, anything looks better than that battering ram sticking out there, lol.. ;D
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For a man that drives these daily and has been backed into, rear ended and bumped countless times, the stock deals are all I will ever use. I mean they do stick out but boy do they work! Weirdly, I think I am the only one that prefers the look of the big bumper cars. To each is own, this is why we have a world full of variation. Otherwise life would be boring, like with the mustang owners. ahahahahah!
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For a man that drives these daily and has been backed into, rear ended and bumped countless times, the stock deals are all I will ever use. I mean they do stick out but boy do they work! Weirdly, I think I am the only one that prefers the look of the big bumper cars.
No, you're not alone; strange as it may seem to some, I prefer the stock look of the big bumper cars too. I would gladly swap my '72 Squire for a '74 or newer in equivalent condition just for that reason.
Dwayne :)
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Dwayne, I will gladly swap bumpers with you. You pay for the shipping of the big ones, I'll pay for the small ones. ;D ;D ;D
Russ
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I just noticed something that could be an issue. I don't see a front sway bar on Bill's car. I was looking at mine, and it looks like the sway bar mounting bracket could be in the way for the front bumper mount.
I only eyeballed it, so I could be wrong. Hopefully I am. But on mine it looks like that would be the second hole that Bill used, there is nothing else close that would be level.
His also looks like it mounts higher on the frame than mine . Maybe I am wrong. A Bobcat shouldn't be that different on the frame stuff, should it?
Russ
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For anyone that wants to see what this looks like on a pinto instead of a bobcat here are my results
Dan, were you able to do this just the way Bill showed?
My car seems to be different.
Thanks,
Russ
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I have a question hope some one can help. would bumpers for 77-78 fit a 79?
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I would gladly swap my '72 Squire for a '74 or newer in equivalent condition just for that reason.
Dwayne :)
Hmmm, now there's a thought... ;D ;D
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I have a question hope some one can help. would bumpers for 77-78 fit a 79?
YES they will fit and so will Fairmont of the late 70's.
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thanks so much because I have found a 78 but haven't found a 79 yet thanks again
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Dan, were you able to do this just the way Bill showed?
My car seems to be different.
Thanks,
Russ
yes, this was done exactly the same as how Bill showed except for the order of assembly. What is different about your car and what year is it?
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It's a 74 wagon. The front sway bar frame mount bracket is in the way of moving the bumper frame mount back. It looks like the sway bar mounting hole would be the one I need for the rear most bolt.
Here's a picture. I measured the holes, and the sway bar mount is the right distance away if the hole in the bumper bracket is modified like Bill says to.
Russ
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hmmm... that is different. it actually looks like the hole directly above the sway bar mount would correspond to what we used but yours is moved up on the rail. Is there anyway you could vertically slot the back hole in the bumper mounts enough to use that upper hole and still be at the right angle?
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I don't know. I haven't tried to do this yet, I was just looking at the frame and noticed it.
Leave it to me to always have something odd.
Thanks,
Russ
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Well, you're not alone I have one on mine too.. :D
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When I do the bumpers on the 80 I'm only going half way in & cutting the fillers down. When they are pulled all the way in it looks too stubby in the front. The rear looks better all the way in but the sides are too long where they wrap around. I thought about cutting 4 inches out of the sides in the rear & seeing if that helps the look.
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Well, you're not alone I have one on mine too.. :D
I wonder if this is either a wagon thing, or only a 74 wagon thing?
Oh, well. Might have to do the rear Bill's way and see what I can come up with for the front. Someone mentioned taking the reinforcement off and bolting the bumper straight to the mounts. If I remember right the only thing about that is it doesn't bring the bumper all the way in.
If I get the energy to do anything again I'll try it.
Or maybe I'll get rich and just buy the small bumpers. hahahahaha.
Russ
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I'm sure there's a way of doing it, may have to fab some brackets??..
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That would probably be the best way. However my fabbing is limited to what I can do with a hand drill, a hacksaw and/or a grinder. :-[
And possibly a BFH. ;D
I am thinking that if I remove the reinforcement piece from the bumper that should make the rest light enough so I can modify the mounts if I need to. I wouldn't want to do that with the full weight of the stock setup though. Although to maintain the correct spacing I am wondering if I will have to cut the reinforcement up and use like 4 inches (width) on each mount since fabbing a spacer for me isn't in the cards.
Just going to have to start playing with it I guess. I'm trying to get motivated to go out there right now, but it is a tad warm. ;D
Russ
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Well, that was interesting. ???
I just found out that this mod won't work at all on my car, at least not in the front. :(
I took the mounts off the bumper so I could work with them, and found out that if I move them back one hole the front of them won't clear the frame. It's not by a lot, but enough. I'd have to measure it to see exactly, but I am thinking much less than one inch. The mounts seem to be totally uncompressed. Both sides are the same way. Everything fit nicely before I took the bumper off. :-\ :o
I really don't know what is going on. I was thinking maybe it was a wagon thing, but my manual shows the same dimensions for the frame holes for both the sedan and the wagon. I wouldn't imagine that the newer years would be any different there.
Who needs a bumper anyway? ;D
Russ
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Who needs a bumper anyway? ;D
I guess that's one way of looking at it!
Dwayne :)
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Wagons look good with a roll pan out back & no bumper to break it up.
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Well, that was interesting. ???
I just found out that this mod won't work at all on my car, at least not in the front. :(
I took the mounts off the bumper so I could work with them, and found out that if I move them back one hole the front of them won't clear the frame. It's not by a lot, but enough. I'd have to measure it to see exactly, but I am thinking much less than one inch. The mounts seem to be totally uncompressed. Both sides are the same way. Everything fit nicely before I took the bumper off. :-\ :o
I really don't know what is going on. I was thinking maybe it was a wagon thing, but my manual shows the same dimensions for the frame holes for both the sedan and the wagon. I wouldn't imagine that the newer years would be any different there.
Who needs a bumper anyway? ;D
Russ
is it the head of the bottom bumper bolt hitting the rad support? that bolt has to be move as described in the original post. otherwise I guess things changed somewhere between 74 and 78.
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It is so funny. My post went almost 3 years without anyone making a reply. I could not imagine that this was not interesting to someone. Now 40 replies in just a month, it is so strange. Thank you Clyde for posting photos.
Bill
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Bill, it just took getting bumped at the right time. ;D
Dan, no, it is the actual bracket that won't clear. Might be able to grind it down some, I haven't looked that hard at it yet. :-\ I decided to move to another area I have been working on for now until I can come back with a clear head.
Russ
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For some reason the mounting frame for the radiator on passenger side was ¼ inch too far forward to allow the bracket to fit properly. A light tap with a sledge hammer moved it back into the correct position. See photo. red tape shows where I hit with the hammer. http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view¤t=radiatortap.jpg (http://s1124.photobucket.com/albums/l568/bobjoebob/bumper%20fix/?action=view¤t=radiatortap.jpg)
Ok, I was re-looking at this, and just noticed a major difference between Bill's car and mine. The radiator support and forward part of the frame is completely different. :(
Mine matches what the 74 manual shows(Vol. IV Body page 47-09-02), so there must have been changes over the years. :-\
Compare my pictures below to his in the above link. His support has a nice curve to it. Mine is very angular(?), anyway, totally different. So I guess there shouldn't be a surprise that the front bumper mod won't work on my car. I am wondering when Ford changed the support over to the nice one like Bill has? I like curves. ;D
Russ
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Could you drill new holes in the bracket or frame to allow you to bolt on anyway you see fit?
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That will be the only way to do this on mine with the stock bumpers, unless I could fabricate something.
Just another thing to think about. It doesn't have to be done anytime soon.
It would probably be easier to just get a small bumper, but easier always equals $.
Thanks,
Russ
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I think at some point I'm going to make new brackets for my '80 out of steel plate with angle iron where the bumper shock is. I tried to drill out the shocks but I couldn't get it to push in. I still want it to stick out around an inch or so from the body in case I get hit.
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Just for anyone with a 74, the rear bumper mounts are also different. I just took a look tonight. Sigh.
If I remember, I will try to get some better pictures of the rear setup on mine, but I will have to get it up in the air first. I was pretty much just pointing the camera at the area for these ones, but they should show enough of the difference.
Russ
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And here are pictures of the 74 front bumper shock. Apparently very different than the 75 and up.
Russ
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Put the front bumper shock in a press and make it shorter.
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If I had a press that would work. My thought is to have the inners pressed out so I can remove the rubber and then hopefully the inners will just slide in and out so I can get them positioned in the right spot.
My reason for posting the pictures in this thread is just to let those with a 74 know that Bill's mod won't work on their cars, unfortunately. It's a great mod for those cars that it will work on.
Thanks,
Russ
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Do you need a press can't you just beat them out?? then just slide it back..
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the rate my week is going I would end up in the hospital somehow.
I don't have any thing other than my two hands to hold, beat, drill, etc. I don't think I could do it with these. Not enough hands.
thanks,
Russ
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Well, I can't seem to paste the image here, but I was reading my factory manual (thanks Art) and it seems that for the rear bumpers the difference I am seeing IS because mine is a wagon. The rear bumpers mount differently on a wagon vs a sedan/hatchback.
So as long as you don't have a wagon (74 for sure, I don't know about the others) you can do the rear bumper fix.
Russ
reason for editing: I am having a really bad day and nothing is going right.
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I don't have any thing other than my two hands to hold, beat, drill, etc. I don't think I could do it with these. Not enough hands.
thanks,
Russ
Time to invest in a BFH.. ;D ;D ;D
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That I have, just no way to really keep everything from flying when I hit it.
But my wife has me so p.o'ed right now I am going to go out and beat on it and see what happens.
Russ
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Ahhh, a little incentive, LOL.. ;D ;D
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yep, unfortunately it didn't help.
It is really tight. I don't know if it was supposed to be this way or if it is just old. I even tried burning the rubber out, but I don't think the propane torch gets hot enough. Although I did stink up the neighborhood pretty good.
Going to have to get them pressed out I guess.
Oh, for anyone reading this, don't try beating on the plate that bolts on to the reinforcement to knock it out. I tried that after hitting it on the other end for several minutes, all I did was bend the plate. It might be ok if you are trying to knock it in though.
Russ
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Probably from age, time for a press too bad you're so far away..
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Try setting the bumper bracket under the front crossmember of the car while it's jacked up & let the jack down slowly.
Personally I'd cut the piece that looks like an I beam down & weld it back together
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Thanks.
I don't want to just push in the bumper bracket though. There is no way of knowing if it ends up in the right position or not. I want to make it totally adjustable so I can just easily move it in and out by hand until I have it just right and then drill it and bolt it. All the way in may not work. I just won't know until I can work with it.
Russ
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This was way easier to do on my 78 wagon. Drilled a hole in absorber pressed them in with a 50 ton press at work then just drilled a hole thru and nut and bolted it into place worked great plus was able to get as much in as needed. Did it to the front and rear bumpers. Just my 2 cents!
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I finished the bumper retraction a few years ago. I was still just a bit unhappy. My bumpers were badly scratched. I could not afford to have them refinished. I came up with this fix. I sprayed them with plasti-coat. It gives them a rubber look. So many cars now have black rubber bumpers that even though this was not an option in 1977 it looks right. The plasti-coat is easily removed with no left over mess. tell me what you think.
Bill
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a view of the back
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I think it looks great, that Plasti-Dip is cool stuff.
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After about 4 years I thought why not bring this up to the front again.
I will be doing this on the 79. So I had to dig and find it to read up on it again.
Maybe if it is back up front it will help someone else out as well.
Russ