PINTO CAR CLUB of AMERICA
Shiny is Good! => Your Project => Topic started by: dave1987 on May 25, 2007, 01:09:26 AM
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My 78 Sedan has run in the family since it was purchased for my mom as a graduation present in 79. Since then my oldest brother had it during his teenage years as his first car and took it to autobody shop with him as his project. He gave it a nice peral metalic blue paint job. Shortly after, he wore the engine out and it was time for a rebuild, which he wasn't up to doing. So it sat on the side of my parents house up to about three years ago when it was my turn to have the car. I pulled the engine with my dad and my cousin (who builds race car engines), helpped me get the block bored and the head rebuilt, as well as put some bigger pistons in it. It now has a new paint job, new clutch, new brakes, and now a new engine to!
Now that I have the car is good operational condition as well as decent exterior condition, I'm wanting to fix up the interior a bit. It needs new carpet, front dash pad and a new headliner. The back seat needs some seem work done in the middle and a new steering wheel.
I'm considering taking out a $500 loan to get this car in tip top shape as I REALLY love driving it. I'd rather drive my 1978 no-AC pinto than my friend's 2002 buick sedan in 100 degree weather. I just love this car so much.
$500 should cover the dash cap which I can get for under $100, carpet is about $200-ish, and a headliner is about $100 for a kit. Then I could have someone locally seem up the back seat a bit. If it needs more than a simple seem job, I'll just not have it done and find a replacment and dye it black.
So is pulling out a $500 loan a good or a bad thing for this project? I REALLY want to get this car's interior to a condition that I don't shreek at each time I look at my dash with a 1" split above my gauges.
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Hello Dave,
Have you thought about selling something you are not using on ebay to make the money to fix-up your Pinto interior. Most banks will not loan less than 1000.00
From Pintony
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I agree with Pintony.
Don't pay intrest and or loan fees when you don't NEED to. If you needed to fix the car to drive to work or school, a loan MIGHT be in order. Save money and buy the parts one at a time. If you do that and take your time, you might find better deals on parts and save even more money on the long run.
Just my $.02
Bill
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I'll be getting a nice large tax return back this year and the interior restoration will be finished by the summer time!
Leather seat covers, carpet, a new dash cap and new door glass.
The brake rotors are slightly warped but those are getting changed out to, as well as my windshield gasket, the trunk seal and new shocks.
A few modifications will be done as well. I will be putting a new pioneer stereo system in as well with four pioneer speakers. Replacing the two dry rotted 6x9 speakers in the back and adding two 6 1/2" speakers in the door panels.
Last but not least I will be putting a Mustang II center console in the car if I can find one in black. They are a big expensive and hard to find around here but in time I will find one.
Thank you everyone for all the help I've recieved on my project thus far and pictures will be plentiful this year, I promise.
I spent the whole night last night buffing out hard water spots from the paint and fixing my exhaust leak at the down pipe. All that will be left after this year will be a new Stallion paint job, but isn't 199% necessary.
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Here are some photos from last summer.
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And some more.
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More.
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And the last of last year...It's not every day you get to see a pinto in the dark. :)
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Hey Dave, looks sweet and sounds like you have the plan well in hand ;D
(I pulled my post and added to the end so I wouldn't break up your pics... very nice collection)
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Thanks cookieboy! I can't wait to get this all finished into presentable shape and bring it to the local fair car show and hopefully to a few of the get togethers here.
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Dave sent me more pics and picked a song... another video by Cookieboy ;D
http://www.fordpinto.com/video/view_video.php?viewkey=b633e50cdf1b20de6f46
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I agree with Pintony.
Don't pay intrest and or loan fees when you don't NEED to. If you needed to fix the car to drive to work or school, a loan MIGHT be in order. Save money and buy the parts one at a time. If you do that and take your time, you might find better deals on parts and save even more money on the long run.
Just my $.02
Bill
That seems a bit high Bill....... :evil:
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Your car looks great and makes my very jealous. My Pinto has along way to go before it will look that good! The interior work is a good way down the road for me, rust repair first.
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Dave1987,
Very, Very Nice car!!!!!
High_Horse
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Thanks guys!
As you can see in the video, the passenger side floor pan had some minor rust issues, but the driver's side floor pan is horrible and I can see right through one of the 1/4" holes. I have an old raggy bath towel under the carpet right now to keep it from getting to much worse. I also hit it with the wire "brush" on the pneumatic die grinder and some "rust converter", covered by some primer.
The body is in rough shape as far as paint goes. There's a 1" diameter spot on the right fender that the paint chipped out of, which I am currently figuring out the best way to fix that. I have filled it with bondo but I still need to fill it one more time, sand it down and paint & clear coat it. Hopefully that will be done before the summer comes. So aside from the paint, not to much bad with it aside from some under paint rust in the bottom of the passenger's side quarter panel.
The car looks a lot better now than it did last summer as I have done some paint touch up all around (the scratch above the gas cap and on the middle of the trunk lid). I have painted the trunk interior black and am currently working on the inside of the hood too.
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Just finished a tune up on the car and put the steel pump-to-carb fuel line in tonight.
I went to a salvage yard today to see if I could find a Mustang II center console but everything was stripped. Tomorrow I will try one more yard and see if they have anything.
I was going to install new shocks on the car but the front ones haven't come in yet. Autozone said the order was canceled for some reason. They re-ordered them and said if the order goes through this time they will have them in on Tuesday. Which means on Wednesday I should have new suspension!
Carpet and dash cap have been ordered, and I'm just waiting for packages in the mail. How long does it normally take to get an order from stockinteriors .com?
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How long does it normally take to get an order from stockinteriors .com?
as I recall they make to order but it was quick... a week?? 10 days??
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Cool. I'll keep checking up with my apartment office to see when it comes in next week then.
I put the new stereo system and the shocks two days ago.
The stereo system is kickin, no distortion anymore!
The new shocks are amazing! The front shocks were in dear need of replacement. After removing them (taking 45 minutes on each side due to rust), I tested the front pair. To put it simple, after compressing them they did not retract. I'm wondering if my springs need replaced too now, considering I might as well not have even had shocks in the car the time I was driving it, since they didn't do anything. What's everybody's input on that?
The rear shocks wern't bad at all. They compressed and retacted pretty normally, just slightly squishy and retracted a little bit slower, but I kept them since they seems fairly new.
Today I received the dash cap in the mail. It fits great. I just need to pull up the link to one of the member's (cookieboy I believe) videos of installing it.
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Today I received the dash cap in the mail. It fits great. I just need to pull up the link to one of the member's (cookieboy I believe) videos of installing it.
yep.. it was me...
http://www.fordpinto.com/video/view_video.php?viewkey=3d06de0ca9a15b615367&page=2&viewtype=&category=mr
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I love the color of that car. Is it 3J? Is it original paint? Looks sharp!
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Actually the original paint job was the "canary yellow" that so many Pinto's were. My older brother actually owned the car when he was in auto body class and repainted it as his finals project. It's called "Canyon Blue", I believe he ordered from a paint shop down the road.
Going through some pictures of pintos tonight, I just realized. My car does not have a sway bar! Is this normal on a 78 Sedan? If no, can I pull one off another different model car and put one on?
For the gauge cluster chrome trim, is it plated on or what? I'd really like to restore this part of the dash but I have no idea how to attempt it.
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...My car does not have a sway bar! Is this normal on a 78 Sedan? If no, can I pull one off another different model car and put one on?....
Yes, that's common. There should be the tabs on the lower control arms for the end links and the holes in the "frame" for the perches so installing one is very easy.
There are at least 2 different size 'Pinto' bars; one about .885" and one about .915".
Bill
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Is there another ford vehicle I can pull a sway bar off of that will bolt on to the 77 sedan (even with minor modification)?
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I have a sway bar out of a Mustang II on my 79 Bobcat, and it fit just like the original. The only reason I changed mine, was the one I used was from a V-8 mustang and cleared my oil pan when I put in the 302. However, this may be just as hard to find as one for a Pinto. If I am thinking correctly, I just saw them listed for sale new on the O'Reilly's website. Or check e-bay.
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I've done a lot of work on the car the past week. Here's the update!
New dash-cap from 1aauto.com - $85.90
New carpet from stock-interiors.com - $129.15
New stereo system by Pioneer from Walmart - $284.36
New brake rotors, bearings and seals from fastundercar.c om (purchased locally & highly recomended) - $115.13
New "trunk Seal" from Walmart (You shall see) - $5.95
Onto the progress pictures!
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First off some shots of the original carpet. It was pretty shot. slightly sun bleached, torn, worn down and just plain tacky. I didn't vacuum it before removing it, I figured what the heck since it was going into the trash anyway.
Things removed before the carpet:
Seats
Seatbelt restraints
E-brake cover
Lower center console and bracket
Rear seat cushions
Kick panels
Door jam screws for inner quarter panels
Door jam chrome trim
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One more of the old carpet:
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Once that was all pulled out and tossed aside, the new carpet was installed. I let it sit for about 4 days before I installed it so the folds and wrinkles would settle out and the carpet could take it's original molded shape. The 78 Sedans used a two piece carpet set. The largest section for the passenger area and the second piece for the drive-shaft tunnel between the two rear set cushions. Why they didn't make it one piece I will never know...
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I won't post pictures of the entire car with the new carpet quite yet, primarily because I don't want to show the whole interior until I post the pictures of the car with the new dash-cap installed.
In the mean time, feast your eyes upon new carpet on the driver's side floor pan, around the shifter and the rear passenger area. The two worst places on my old carpet and the one spot that won't spoil it all. :)
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So the carpet was finished after about two hours of work. I wanted to be sure it was perfect. Next up was the Dash-Cap taking around an hour of work time and four hours drying time.
The first step was removing any high spots on the original dash so the new Dash-Cap would fit properlly. My original dash wasn't to bad, except for a grand canyon crack down the center of the gauge and a hairline crack on the passenger's side.
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There was a lot to trim down above the gauge cluster. The dash pad had started to bow upwards on both sides.
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Once that was finished the dash and the inside of the Dash-Cap were sanded with medium grade sandpaper and the silicon adhesive (included) was applied with a bead size of a pencil as per instructions included with it. After letting it sit on the dash, with paper towel rolls to "clamp" it and apply pressure between it and the windshield, for four hours it came out beautifully!
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Now you can see the new interior. It looks amazing compared to what it used to be! I was really surprised at how much both the carpet and dash have improved the appearance of the car! I really didn't expect it to looks this nice, and I'm over joyed to have this part done with the car.
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and some full shots of the inside from both sides.
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To ride in a nice "new" Pinto, and since it is my daily driver/only car, I had to install a new stereo system as well. The old Pioneer deck was starting the skip CDs, the rear Realistic (old Radio Shack brand) 6x9's were dry rotted, and the little temporary 3" speakers in the kick panels couldn't get very loud without distorting. It was time for an upgrade!
I do not have any pictures of the new 6x9 Pioneers in the back yet, but I will update this post with them as soon as possible.
For the front kick panel speakers I went with a pair of Pioneer TS-G671M 4-way 6.5" speakers. They can handle up to 260W of music power or 50W RMS (the most my deck can produce without an external amp), so distortion isn't a problem at all at high volumes.
Yes, a 6.5" speaker is massive for the Pinto's little kick panels. However the driver (magnet on the back) fits sung in the cut out behind the plastic kick panel, which gives you access to the door hinge bolts from the inside of the car. The speakers are around 3" tall when sitting on the magnet, or 3" deep when installed. The clearance from the body and the outside of the kick panel is about 2 inches, so I ended up having to cut a set of circular spacers from some particle board. I used my dad's drill press with a sanding drum on it to perfect them, and followed up by painting them black and clear coating them.
I personally love the look, however they arn't in the ideal location for most car audio phreaks. Most people would cut holes in the doors and mount them there like most cars have them. I myself didn't want to destroy my doors in any way and wanted to keep the speakers somewhat hidden. No, I do not kick them when shifting. :cheesy_n:
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The new Pioneer DEH-P3900M deck was somewhat difficult to install. The Pinto's stock AM radio originally is secured to the dash by the tuner and volume knobs, following up with a screw on the back. I had to fabricate a mounting bracket for use with modern CD decks, which is screwed onto a 3/4" thick pieces of wood, then bolted to the dash from the bottom. the pressure from the cut radio bezel pressing down on the top of the radio keeps it from moving around.
It still needs a bit of work and some bezel work, but it came out pretty good for a 1 hour job!
The face plate comes off which I can place inside of an the old Pioneer deck's padded plastic face plate carrier. The deck also came with a remote so I don't have to strain my arm every time I want to adjust the audio! :cheesy_n:
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Wow 10 posts in a row and the first time I have ever seen the recent post section with only one name from top to bottom. Hang in there dave1987. The car looks very nice BTW. :lol:
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Thanks turbo toy! Still a few more posts to go but I'm still pushin. :)
Last but not least, I installed the new brake rotors. The new rotors came with bearing races installed, however I removed them using a transfer punch and a mallet. I figure it'd be best to play it safe and use the matched races that came with the new bearings, instead of possibly ruining the new bearings and having to disassemble the new rotors all over again in a short time.
After about and hour of work removing the stock races, I installed the new bearing races with the aid of a tool my dad manufactured while he worked at Hewlett-Packard. He used a professional lathe to form this tool out of a wide aluminum dowel. He used the lathe to grind down sections of the dowel to the exact size of the bear race seats so new races can be installed by hand, with the ease and convenience of an open end wrench and a ratchet handle. Basically, tightening the nuts on each end presses the race inward, depending on which side's smaller press is going inwards.
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After all the work done to the car I figured I should clean it up a bit with a spray bottle of heavily diluted car was shampoo & conditioner and some Meguiar's Quick Wax (in the red bottle). Here's the car after a spiffy spray bottle car wash and wax in the garage. ;D
Notice the deep shine and great reflection! 8)
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And some creative shots of the logo and passenger's side of the car (front to back).
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For cleaning my car I use the following products
Dash-Cap, kick panels, all plastic parts - Meguiar's Gold Class Protectant Wipes (www.meguiars.c om)
Rubber shift boot & Vinyl Seats - Meguiar's Gold Glass Vinyl/Rubber Proectant Spray (www.meguiars.c om)
Leather Seat Covers - Meguiar's Gold Glass Rich Leather Spray (www.mequiars.c om)
As far as the body of the car goes, I use all Meguiar's products. #62 Professional Shampoo & conditioner, their Hi-Tech Yellow paste wax, the occasional Quick Wax, and their Hot Rims Aluminum Wheel Cleaner for the hub caps.
I don't let anything touch the car except for microfiber towels, even during the drying stage. While washing the car, I use a sheepskin car wash mit. For removing light scratches and swirl marks, I use Meguiar's ScratchX which does wonders.
For glass I use Stoner's Invisible Glass from the spray can, not the bottle, being wiped out with a microfiber.
The car is washed once a week during the summer and once a month during winter. Waxed with Hi-Tech Yellow paste was every 2-3 months during the summer and Quick Wax'd once a month after the wash during the winter.
Keeping the exterior of the car in beautiful condition is just as important as the interior!
If anyone has any questions on detailing or paint care feel free to ask. If I can't answer it myself I will find someone who can!
Thats all for today. I will post more tomorrow of the trunk seal and I will update the photos of the rear speakers and new CD deck.
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:amazed: WOW :amazed:
Fantastic! Looks Great!
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Car is still looking awesome! My dad put a new dash pad in my Pinto just before he gave it to me and the dang thing already has a big ole crack in the middle of it. Keep it protected!
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Thanks guys!
Deffinately. With all of the things I purchased for the car restoration this year, I also got a set of round collapseable window shades. I'll be sure they are always up in the summer and that I part the car in the shade.
If worse comes to worse, I could (as could you), go to the scrap yard and pull a dash off an old pinto of the same year. Even if it's trashed, a new dash cap will fit over it perfectly if you cut down the high spots!
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Here's a shot of the original keys to the car. I no longer use them, or duplicates of them.
When my ex-girlfriend was driving the car she somehow offset the tumblers in the original ignition cylinder and I ended up having to replace the entire ignition cylinder housing on the steering column and the cylinder itself.
The original keys are made of aluminum and have the same key style as 70s Ford key blanks have at locksmith shops. I've been looking for aluminum blanks all around but I do not believe they are made anymore. Now all that there is produced is the chromed brass blanks.
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Hey Dave... look what I found on Ebay ;D
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Pair-Ford-Logo-Keys-for-1971-1980-Ford-Pinto_W0QQitemZ230224973897QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230224973897
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That's who I purchased my current set of key blanks from. They are the same as the originals as far as design goes, but the material is like any other modern key (brass). Thanks for the link though!
If you happen to find some aluminum key blanks, I'd be all over them!
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Here is some of the original literature that came with my car back in 78 when it was new.
The Owners Manual. Notice the production date on the back. :P
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Here is the original warranty booklet which covered the basic details of the warranty on the Ford Pinto or small Ford pickup back in 1978.
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The Warranty Identification Card. This was used to quickly process your information when your car required service within the warranty period. The fields would be filled out (blurred due to it containing my mother's past information and signature), and the aluminum plate would be stamped with your vehicle's identification number (VIN has been blurred) and a few other numbers. It also contained the Ford Dealership Number and the date that your vehicle was put into service (purchased). I haven't ever seen one of these before and I find it very neat that it was still in the glove box when I got the car. :)
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And one last dinky little thing that I'm guessing no one on earth still has from an original Ford Pinto purchase from the dealership....
The plastic bag that they give you your owner's manual, owner card, warranty booklet and all other documents required by the purchaser before driving off the lot in their new car.
It's goofy to keep something that would otherwise be thought of as trash, but it really completes the literature side of my particular Pinto. :P
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I have updated the post of the new stereo. There are now a couple pictures of the stereo in the dark.
http://www.fordpinto.com/smf/index.php/topic,7356.msg54457.html#msg54457
Here, as well, is an updated picture of the trunk. The only big difference is that I have painted the interior sides black, as well as around the seal where the lid covers.
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As I promised, I would show what I did for a trunk seal since a new one was around $80 shipped, where as I made this for under $6 from window weather/draft window rubber foam gaskets that I purchased from Walmart.
The bottom layer is 1/2" thick foam and the top is 5/16" thick foam. It was a little tall at first, and I really had to slam the trunk lid shut. Now, however, it isn't too bad and it just takes a little bit of motion to get it to latch. The best part of it all....No more water on my speaker cone in the trunk! ;D
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I managed to find myself a rally steering wheel and a distributor dust cover off a Mustang II at the local pick-n-pull! I will have pictures up soon.
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The other day I found my warranty card/plate and that plastic bag shoved up under the dash of my pinto. It was so grungy I think its been there since the car was purchased.
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Probably was! Good to hear you found it though. It really gives the car some personal value knowing you have some of the original documentation and information from the dealership!
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As I promised, I would show what I did for a trunk seal since a new one was around $80 shipped, where as I made this for under $6 from window weather/draft window rubber foam gaskets that I purchased from Walmart.
Nothing like a little old fashioned American inginuity..... They are always hard to close at first...it takes that stuff a while to settle...Good job Dave1987.
High_Horse
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So I had the day off and decided to do my back dash since it was rattling badly when I had my bass up. My older brother who originally redid the dash back when he repainted the car, used 1/4" plywood with a good thick layer of Bondo to fill in the flat surface that shows towards the front of the car.
I took it a few steps further and used his plywood dash as a template and cut a new dash from 1/2" particle board. Much stronger and will not bend when the speakers are excessively torqued down. The old dash bowed up at the ends due to this reason, which is what prompted me to redo it. That and extreme vibration which I believe was a bi-product of the bowed thin plywood.
First I took my older brother's dash and drew a template onto a large sheet of 1/2" particle board. I used a cut off saw to cut the ends, cutting them at angles. After that I used a Rotozip to cut the arch at the back of the dash (about 1/8" away from the drawn line), finishing up with an electric radial palm sander to sand the excess material down to the line I drew from the original dash template.
After cutting the dash's initial shape, I did a test fit but it would not slide into place. This is due to an overhanging lip underneath the rear window which the stock dash slid under, and served as a hold down mechanism. (Picture 1)
So to fix this, I used a router bit on the Rotozip to remove close to 1/4" of the material inward and 1/4" deep into the wood, giving it a small lip around the arch so it would slip underneath the overhanging lip under the rear window.
Well it turned out that I trimmed too much material inwards and I had to pull out the Bondo to fill in the entire area that I trimmed. However, it came out better than I had planned because I filled it all in with a beveled edge, so it was more wedged into the overhanging groove under the rear window instead of pinched. (Picture 2)
Once that was complete the rear dash fit nice and snug! (Pictures 3 and 4)
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Some more pictures of the perfect fit.
Picture 4 is of the groove under the rear window. It is a bit clearer to see what I am talking about here, however you really have to see it to know what I mean by it holding down the stock dash by pinching it.
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Cutting holes for the speakers was the easy part. I cut them with the Rotozip, 1/8" away from the template line, then used a drum sander to remove material down to the line. I continued to sand down the speaker holes until the speakers rested in their positions without any friction, test fitting after 1/16 of the material was sanded off around each hole.
After that it was time to paint it and put a layer of clear coat on it. The clear coat is matte, which is all I had available at the time, however I plan to use a gloss lacquer on it soon.
The dash is held down by the lip of the rear seat and the groove under the rear window. The screws which pass through the speaker grills and the speaker mounting holes go straight through under the back panel and are secured with bolts which help to hold the board down tight and reduce vibration from music with a lot of bass.
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I am very pleased with the new rear dash as it no longer bows up on the ends, and I can listen to my bass beat techno without hearing an annoying vibration the whole time! Instead I feel the vibrations. :P
EDIT: I found this picture of the bondo'd edge which was beveled to wedge into the rear window groove.
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Today I did work on the battery tray. Turns out I didn't even end up using the original battery tray I found in my dad's attic!
Actually, the battery tray that is in the car is a replacement. I'm guessing that when my mom took the car in to have the battery replaced, at some point in time, that they changed the physical size of the battery to a longer one. The original battery tray is about 1/2" shorter than the one I have in the car at the moment.
Since the battery I use actually fits perfectly in the existing tray, I am going to leave it as it.
I, instead, removed the tray from the engine compartment and cleaned it up. But not without before and after pictures!
As you can see from the pictures below, the larger tray has seen better days. However, it is very salvageable!
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After taking it all down to bare metal with the aid of my dad's air compressor and pneumatic 90 degree die grinder with a wire wheel on it, I was able to remove all the surface rust. Thankfully that is all it was, and I was able to stop the degradation of the tray before it got worse!
I bent the tabs on the sides back up, which are used to keep the battery in place.
After removing all the paint and rust so it was nice and shinny raw steel, I used some automotive "rust repellent" primer, following up with some rust-oleum indoor/outdoor textured grey paint. Why textured? From my personal experience, textured paint is rougher and stands up to much more of a beating. I will later paint it black, but for now the grey will do, just for protection.
Almost as good as new!
One question though, has anyone else seen this larger battery tray in other Pintos? I found it kind of cool that I have a battery tray with identical punch outs, folds and size, aside from the length!
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Maybe it is a V6 tray? Just a guess......
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It is possible. I do no know if the V6 tray batteries were larger or not though. We gave the vehicle specific information to Sears Auto Center when my dad and I got a new battery for the car after the engine rebuild and the new battery fits perfectly.
Judging by the appearance and condition of the original tray, I would say it was in there for at least 4-5 years before it was swapped out. That would be 1981 - 1982. I also do not know if battery measurements were ever changed for the 78 2.3L 4cyl engine. And if they were, when.
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Today I started work on my electric fuel pump conversion. Why am I changing to an electric pump? Because I've gone through three different mechanical pumps in the past 12 months and this is my only vehicle. I need something reliable for when I drive down to Tremonton Utah this summer!
I wired the relay into the electrical system and mounted+wired in the inertia switch. I also installed a rocker switch to manually cut power to the pump while the key is in the forward accessory position.
The pump was mounted to a small plate made of 1/4" thick aluminum sheet metal, by means of a 1 1/2" conduit/pipe strap.
The plate was mounted to the undercarriage by means of the rear shock absorber bracket bolts, closest to the center of the car.
I have not connected the pump to the tank or carburetor quite yet though. I am going to drive around town for the next 4-5 days (until my next day off), to see if the location of the pump as it is will cause any issues with the suspension system of the car. I do not want to be driving around and hit a bump or dip in the road and have the pump crushed due to the rear axle. It should all clear just fine, but it's always a good idea to play it safe!
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I couldn't get ahold of a bypass regulator for the fuel system anywhere in town so I am putting the electric pump conversion on hold and I am currently back to the mechanical pump setup.
Today I installed a SunPro Black Face Tach II on the steering column. I haven't secured it with anything but a large hose clam for now, but tomorrow I plan to finish that.
I purchased a left motor mount today since the mustang II one I have in there is really worn and making an irritating knocking sound (no, it's not the motor itself). Hopefully I can get that in tomorrow.
I will really try to get some pictures of the car up tomorrow. I have yet to get a nice picture of the interior with the new MII steering wheel in, but now that I have a tach in I will be a little more motivated to get one up.
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I promised pictures so here they are! It was dark out but I will take better pictures later.
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Today I went out to the salvage yard and pulled the sport mirrors off the Mustang II I pulled my steering wheel from a few months back.
I sanded them down and primered them today, hopefully the weather will permit me to paint them tomorrow.
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So yesterday mom pulled out her graduation photo album from 1978, when she got the car as a graduation present from her parents (my grandparents). There are photos of her with the car, my grandparents with the car, and even the salesman with the car! No plates on it, just brand spankin' new!
Mirror perfect aluminum bumpers, gutter trim, clear turn signal lenses and everything. Even the "PONY" decals on the fenders, forward of the doors!
She won't give me the pictures yet, as she is saving them for my 21st birthday present in August, so you all will have to wait another 2 months for pictures of a Pinto, still under the original owner since 1978, straight from the dealership. Sorry guys. :P
As for restoration, the sport mirrors came out to dark to put on the car. They look like the color of the car when it's in the shade, but with the sun out it just looks goofy. I won't be putting them on the car until I have it repainted with new doors on the car, that way everything is the same shade.
Tomorrow I plan to drop the transmission and see if I can track down the source of my rough shifting and light clunking (which may be from the rear end). I will update when I find out though.
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So yesterday mom pulled out her graduation photo album from 1978, when she got the car as a graduation present from her parents (my grandparents). There are photos of her with the car, my grandparents with the car, and even the salesman with the car! No plates on it, just brand spankin' new!
Mirror perfect aluminum bumpers, gutter trim, clear turn signal lenses and everything. Even the "PONY" decals on the fenders, forward of the doors!
She won't give me the pictures yet, as she is saving them for my 21st birthday present in August, so you all will have to wait another 2 months for pictures of a Pinto, still under the original owner since 1978, straight from the dealership. Sorry guys. :P
WOW! a very nice piece of history to go with the car.
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She won't give me the pictures yet, as she is saving them for my 21st birthday present in August, so you all will have to wait another 2 months for pictures of a Pinto, still under the original owner since 1978, straight from the dealership. Sorry guys. :P
you might be able to have her get a copy made of them... Even blow it up to a larger size... ;) ;D
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Today I dropped the tranny for inspection. There isn't anything unusual as far as the gears and innards go, just very low on oil!
I believe I have found the source of the "oil drip" from my bell housing. Once I pulled the tranny down, the first thing I noticed was a gel like film coating the inside of the bell housing. I believe the tranny was low on oil due to the input shaft seal. I got it changed out today so we will see how it goes from there.
Since I had the tranny off I did a clutch inspection and ended up installing a new clutch assembly and pilot bearing while I was in there. The flywheel didn't seem to bad so I didn't have it turned.
12 hours of work and $112 in parts later, the car shifts nicer and it has a lot more get up and go now!
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Interesting piece of history of your car. That'll be cool to see the first pics taken of your car to go with the current pics. Good to hear your transmission problem has been solved.
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Well the clutch cable on the car went out today. It was an NAPA one, identical to the motormite one sold by parts america distribution centers (namely schucks). This is the second one it has gone through in the past two years. This one didn't even last a year!
Does anyone know if the Beck/Arnley cable is any better?
The NAPA/motormite one pulled through the "arms/retainers" that hold the cable body outside of the firewall and the pedal sunk to the floor. I had to drive the car to my dad's house without using the clutch, which I felt very bad about putting the car though, but my insurance company canceled my towing package because I had the car towed three times in a seven year period.
Not only that buch I found another transmission leak, Now it's coming from where the extension body couples to the gearbox. Anyone know where I can get a gasket for this?
For now I am out of a vehicle since I don't get paid until the 20th. At least it isn't to far away from now and where I work is literally right down the road from my apartment complex!
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Replaced the cable with a Mustang II cable and it's working great. I'll try to take pictures tomorrow. I'll leave my camera on the counter to remind me!
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Dave:
This is SUCH a great documentary on your effort. My '76 wagon interior restoration is already two weeks deep, I am pulling the rest of the carpet tonite, and a good part of the dash is apart. Can't wait until mine looks like yours inside. REALLY nice job!
Chris
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Thanks Chris! Glad to hear you are just into the restoration as me and others here are! I hope you will be posting lots of pictures too! :D
I snapped a few pictures today of the car. I just washed, quick waxed and detailed the car and finally got around to snatching the digital camera out of it's hiding place to share some photos with everyone.
Finally, here is a good shot of the interior!
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And here is some photos of the damage to the cowl area. My dad said that the hood came up once while while driving and snagged the cowl which caused it. I believe it has had damage done to it while my oldest brother owned the car and the hood was not aligned properly when he removed the head off the engine.
Just recently, I was out along the border of Boise helpping a friend with her stranded car and we were jump starting it. There was a lot of wind that day which caught the hood and pulled it backwards, misaligning it. When I closed the hood it rubbed a bit against the cowl but no catching against metal.
I have no clue as far as how to fix this. The fold which lines up with the centerfold on the hood is collapsed, and as you can see, the cowl isn't even mesh with the hood anymore.
I am planning to have it fixed when I have the car repainted, along with my passenger's side lower quarter panel where it is rusted through (not bad though).
Any ideas as far as how to fix this temporarily?
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How often do we get to share pictures of interior lighting? Not to often I thinks...
The oil pressure gauge and ammeter lamps are very dim and I can't figure out why. I am going to see if I can get them wired up in parallel tomorrow.
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Here is a picture I recently had developed from a roll of film I was experimenting with in my 35mm Canon AE-1 Program.
I think the angle and the natural lighting shows off the car quite well, and masks quite a bit of the paint defects. It looks more like a classic photo than anything. (the white specs on the photo are dust from my dad's flatbed scanner).
I hope to have some time to post some new pictures I took of the car yesterday for my 2008 records.
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August 25th - Dad buys a set of steel styled wheels off a 78 Bobcat from the salvage yard as a b-day present for me.
August 28th - Polishing of rings and center caps is done.
September 6th - Painting of wheels beings, starting with removal of old paint.
September 9th - Painting of wheels is completed and drying process has begun.
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I will be having the pair of wheels which has paint on the tires swapped with the tires I have on the rear of my car right now, and then have them all balanced. About $60 of work at les schwab. So that's $30 for the wheels and tires, $60 for dismount, mount and balancing all four, and about $18 in paint. $118 for new wheels and two new tires...Not bad!
There was SOME smearing on the "spokes" of one of the wheels, but I have ways of correcting that. Here's what they'll look like!
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I put the new wheels on the car today and wow do they look good! I will take some pictures tomorrow as I've had a busy day today. I did come home to a nice letter from Ford though! I inquired about a "build sheet" of the car about a month and a half ago and they told me it would take 4-6 weeks to research the vehicle's past and get the info for me and sure enough, pretty much right on time!
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As time passes, this is becoming a restoration/customization project. Honestly, I think it's coming along quite well!
One of my goals this year was to add a center console to the car. I could not find a Mustang II console that didn't cost a fortune, however I did find a Merkur in the salvage yard that I frequent, and it fits quite well!
I had to paint the bottom section of the console black from the existing gray, but that was easy to do with the aid of some friends at KC Auto Paint & Supply, who hooked me up with some SEM brand adhesion promoter and a satin black paint.
For mounting the console, I only need to use the rear bracket, since the Pinto's center hub sits lower in the back than it does in the front. For keeping the console straight and level, this left a 1.5" gap between the floor and the console base. To correct this, I used a section of extra carpet that 1A Auto included with my new carpet and cut a section to fit around the base of the console downward to the center hub, giving the finished assembly a stock appearance!
For the shift boot, I am currently using a generic replacement leather boot cover that my younger brother used in his Mercury Tracer a year ago. I cut the spring around the base of the boot out, then used hot glue to secure the boot to the inner lip of the console.
The greatest thing about this console is that I can still use stock center cubby that sits under the stereo! I did have to cut the console short about 1 1/4" from the front so it did not run into the dash bracket though.
And now some glory shots!
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And a few more...
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And from the back.
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your car is looking very good!
Chuck
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Nice job Dave!
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Thanks you guys! I love getting some comments from my fellow PCCA members, it means a lot hearing that it's coming along good from other Pinto owners.
The comments from people around town who haven't seen a Pinto in 10 years just isn't the same. :D
Now looking at those pictures, it appears I have a rats nest of wires to clean up under the dash....:P
Another thing I'm considering doing is taking the dash wood grain and the wood grain e-brake handle from the Bobcat that I parted out, and applying them to my car. However, I do not know how well that could come along, as I do not have deluxe door panels to go with them. Any input on this matter?
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I think it would look fine with or without the deluxe door panels. There is not much wood grain on the later style deluxe door panels anyway. Just my opinion.....
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If you want to know how it would look check the youtube link in my signature as min has those parts but not the deluxe door panels
the center counsel look very nice
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I wouldn't let the lack of deluxe door panels stop me from using the woodgrain pieces on the dash... I think they look cool.
Dwayne :smile:
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I've got the sport mirrors finished and on the car now! Here are a few shots from inside for you all.
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And the 2008 photos of the car are here too!
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And a few more....
I am quite pleased with how well the car turned out this year. Just about everything I had planned to do got done!
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I dig the sport mirrors and rally wheels! :amazed:
lookin' good Dave!
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DAVE ,YOUR CAR LOOKS REALLY NICE.I REALLY LIKE THE INTERIOR.YOU SPENT SOME TIME & CHANGE ON IT AND IT TURNED OUT REALLY GOOD.I WILL POST SOME PICS OF MINE AS SOON AS I CAN.I'M THINKING OF TRADING MY 88 MUSTANG SEATS OUT FOR 88 TURBO-COUPE SEATS.NOT SURE YET.ANY WAYS CAR IS LOOKING GREAT. TOMMYS
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Thank you for the compliments everyone! I hope to have an updated video of the car up on youtube by the end of the year with the updated photos and progress shots.
I've been hit pretty hard by my allergies this year (every October) and I'm not feeling up to anything, even going to work. I may be away from the boards for a little while.
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I love it! Nice job!
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Update!
Thanks to Chuck (discolives78), I was motivated to finally get some of the engine painted! Yesterday I repainted the valve cover, belt covers, hoist loops and dipstick handle (the tube will be done shortly).
While I was under there, I figured I would finish painting the driver's side of the inner fender, as well as repaint the upper alternator bracket.
I was a little bit hesitant about the shade of blue used, because it wasn't really a positive match to the original. But the "Old Ford Blue" from Schucks is quite refreshing!
Here are some before and after pictures. The first picture was taken about 6 months after the rebuilt motor was dropped back in, and about a year before I even bothered to do anything else to the car. Quite the change!
Next step for the engine compartment... .Wire loom!
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Looks great under there. BTW, what size battery do you have in your 78? At Carlisle last year I bout a NOS battery hold down for the car but my battery is wider (front to back) than the hold down.
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I am not entirely sure, actually.
From what I gather off the battery, it is a Diehard C10 S30056/K438328. I'm sure Sears could pull up the battery for you. It is a very strong and reliable battery, and has served me very well.
I know that my battery is larger than the original one though. I still have the original battery plate for the car, but the one that is on it right now is about 1 inch to 1 1/2 inches longer. I am still using the original hold down though.
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Looks good Dave! I need to paint my firewall and inner fenders too. I'm using a Napa battery in my car and it fits in the original bracket. It's been pretty good so far.
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So I spent the night at my girlfriend's last night and everything was fine and dandy with the car.....Until I went out to warm it up this morning!
I went to turn the key forward to start the car and it wouldn't turn past the unlock position! It would just stop when trying to go any further and no amount of tapping the column would make it budge. I even tried my spare key!
So while sitting in the parking lot full of snow, with more snow falling from the sky, I disassembled the steering column to find the source of the problem. I initially thought it was the ignition cylinder, as I had to replace it once already during a similar situation. However, in desperation to get my little Pony going so I could drive the seven miles home to really get it fixed, I stripped the column down to the switch.
It turned out that the switch was jammed up. For some reason, it would not move past the "unlock" position, but not to the run or start positions. No problems getting it to move back to the accessory position though, of coarse.
I eventually removed the switch from the column and forced it to move (with a screwdriver) into the run and start positions, and then reassembled everything.
I knew it was acting up prior to this, but never thought anything of it. It would get difficult to turn the key forwards when cold, but I just thought it was how the ignition cylinder was. It turns out it was the switch the whole time!
Now, what causes this? Just and old switch? I pulled the switch from the 77 Bobcat at the junk yard to replace it with, just to play it safe, but how should I lubricate it?
UPDATE: I pulled apart the replacement switch I pulled at the JY. My guess is that the ball bearing in my original switch jammed up or came off it's track and got wedged in somewhere inside the housing, keeping me from turning the key all the way. I cleaned and polished all of the contacts on the replacement unit and lubricated the ball bearing and it's track with some long life bearing grease. Hopefully it will keep things smooth and not jam up on me again. I will have to see if I can find a replacement ball bearing for the original switch to fix it, if it isn't destroyed on the inside.
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If it does act up you can get one from the auto parts store. It shouldn't cost you too much if I remember right. When I had my 78 & I was using it to drive to work I went outside one day & couldn't get the key to rotate. Turns out water got in the switch & it froze solid. That killed the switch, as after I dried it I took it apart the switch still didn't work.
I say with electrical parts like this it's better to be safe than sorry.
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I replaced the switch tonight with the bobcat's one. Took the old one apart (which still worked by the way), and I DID find water in it! I'm guessing that the leak I have been going insane trying to track down is above the steering column, or near enough to it that the water travels above it. My guess is the wiper post! I would be willing to be cash that it froze up just like yours did r4pinto.
So, how easy is it to change a wiper post seal???
To clean the bobcat switch, I scuffed the copper contacts with a green scotch pad. I think I should be fine until it freezes really bad again. I'll just have to really watch it...or something. :(
It looks like a new windshield gasket won't be an optional purchase with the upcoming tax refund check.
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Have a 1974 Pinto,restoring to the original condition,but need a few items.
Mainly a factory green steering wheel.If you could round one up I would be ever so grateful.
Gregg J Bearden
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I will be going out to a yard with a couple avacado green pintos with green interiors. They have the deluxe "fancy" steering wheels on them, but the center horn inserts arn't in great shape. They'd probably be asking $70 for them regardless though. PM me if you are interested.
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Dave,
What I did for the wiper seal is use the clear windshield sealer. I did that on my car when I bought it & have no leaks or anything from there. In the mean time You could do what I did & that is make a shield from some galvanized aluminum. On the 78 I never got the leak fixed so the shield going over the switch kept the water from getting in there.
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Any pictures? If not, where did you put the shield? Right above the switch over the steering column/pedal bracket?
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I believe I have found where the windshield is leaking! I was drive my girlfriend to work today and noticed two yellow "stains" which flowed from the edge of the windshield to the dash, on the rubber between the two. One is about 1/2" away from being directly above the steering column (which would explain the freezing ignition switch), the other is a few inches away to towards the door, which would explain the water on the rubber floor mat, and the wet carpet, and the wet towel between the carpet and floor pan, and the floor pan....:P
I'll take a pic of the leak spots. I'm going out to the garage right now to attempt a quick temporary fix with the silicon sealant I used successfully around the rear window.
EDIT: Here are some shots of where the water residue/mildew is:
EDIT 2: Repair completed. 5 minutes of work. Wiping down between the seal and the windshield, getting grime out, and then pumping some silicon between the clean surfaces. I probably should have gone and done the entire base of the windshield, but since I'm changing out the gasket in the next couple months I don't think it will be necessary.
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Got some photos of my little Pony in the winter time. I trust my Pinto over my 07 Saturn on icy roads any day. Winter modifications include the two front auxilily lights ("fog" lights), 185/80/R13 WinterMaster studded snow tires on the stock rims with original hub caps, and mudflaps on the back to keep slush and ice build up around the rear bumper, and to keep water off the quarter panels.
The last picture shows the rust that is already starting on the passenger side quarter panel. >:( :'(
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So I was staring at some pictures my mother gave me of when she picked up my Pinto at the dealership in Emmett Idaho back in 1978. It got me thinking, could I find this dealership on Google maps (in satellite view), even though the dealership is now closed?
Sure enough, I found my Pinto's original place of sale! When summer comes out real nice, I want to drive the car out there and snap a shot in the same location, if traffic permits, for nostalgia sake.
The contact info that Google provides for "Emmett Ford Inc." is the same contact information that the sales person wrote down on the Warranty Identification Card in my glove box. I'm guessing he was a dealership owner and sold it in the early 80s, or moved to a larger location. He was just on some crossroads back in the 70s with 4 - 5 of his cars for sale lined up along the main road.
How many Pinto owners get the chance to revisit the original place of sale?! 8)
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Well, actually... the building which housed the dealership where I purchased my original Pinto (brand new in January of 1974) is still standing, although the dealership itself has gone out of business. Unfortuately, the original Pinto fell victim to a horrible accident with its second owner. Not sure exactly where my current Pinto originated although I still have contact information for the previous owners so that's something I may be able to find out someday. Incidently, I still have a 1983 Ford F150 4x4 that was purchased from the same dealership as the '74 Pinto. Bought it new on Halloween day in 1982 and it now has a whopping 69000 miles on it! That averages out to approximately 218 miles per month! Needless to say, it's in pretty good shape and I certainly have no immediate plans to replace it.
Dwayne :smile:
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I work at the dealership that my Pinto came from, so I get to visit every day!! :P :D
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Dave1987:
Hey!!! Love the Pinto, just looked at your project thread on the 1978. It's really a sharp car. Anyway, on Ebay I've found dash caps for around $74.00 shipping included, and carpet around $114.00 or so plus about $20.00 shipping. Anyway, I got the 1971 Pinto from Washington State, and I'm buying new carpet for it next week. Reed had just put new carpet in this 1971 Pinto (since July 2008), but he didn't do it correctly and it looks like he made some bad cuts. Anyway, the carpet is new, and probably still usuable. I'll give it to you if you want it. I really haven't looked at it closely, since the car came in, as it's been at the garage ever since. But it did still look new, maybe it can be patched up or something. Anyway, just let me know.
Thanks.... Larry
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I got your PM, larjohnson. It's all good! :D
The Pinto made it's first road trip yesterday. I drove it from Boise to Kennewick, then from Kennewick to Spokane, and from Spokane back down to Boise going through Mccall. About 19 hours of complete driving time in one day, through ice, snow and fog. The car did great and the trip was tons of fun!
Along the way I got to see a 74' and a 73' Pinto combo for sale in Pendleton. The guy wants $1500 for both cars. The 73 has a damaged left fender from a sign falling on it, but other than that it's running great and pretty straight for the most part. The 73' was the beginning of a project race car but was never finished and has the slotted mag wheels. I'll have pix of them up in the next couple days, posted in a different thread.
Once I got up to Spokane I got the red Mustang II full feature center console from the guy I contacted on Craigslist. Really nice college kid who even told me there was an 8" rear for $50 somewhere around Spokane if I was interested. He even went home and looked up the exact location and phone number for me! The rear end was located about two hours north of where we were, so I didn't bother heading up.
After picking up the center console I went to their "Pick-and-Save" salvage yard and found a brown 78' wagon with tan interior. Here's the thing, anyone near by might want to snag stuff off this while they can, there are a lot of good things still on it! The dash pad only has one small crack to the right of the gauges, and the steering wheel doesn't have any cracks at all (the button is still there too!)! The e-brake cover is in great shape, seat belts are still very black (original color), and the shifter assembly with the bezel is all still there!
I pulled the gauge cluster assembly as it is in great shape, as well as the door beltline trim (which is still in great shape!) and the front turn signal lenses which are still clear.
All in all, the trip was good, car handled well and didn't slid around at all really, and I returned home with some goodies! :D
The next few updates will be of the center console restoration for the Mustang II console that I will be swapping out the Merkur one for, and the windshield will be pulled this spring for a gasket replacement. At that time, the dash will be removed and wiper post seals replaced as well.
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Dave:
Sounds like you had a good time and are making progress. Congrats!
A favor if I may - if the '78 wagon you sppeak of has a steering wheel with a central horn BUTTON (which is how I read it), and it is TAN (how I read it), and is intact (how I read it), what can I offer you money-wise to go pull it, pack it, and ship it to me? PM me if you wish, I really need a good steering wheel for my '76, and tan would be a BONUS. Thanks for your consideration!!
Chris
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The trip was very fun and I can't wait to do another road trip soon. Hopefully I can make it down to Utah to see my best friend and over to Portland for a northwest Pinto meet that apintonut is organizing.
I got the console from a very nice guy off Craigslist in Spokane who had parted out a Mustang II before scrapping it. He sold me this very solid center console for $25 and I made a 19 hour road trip to pick it up. While I was up there, I also stopped by a junk yard and got some new condition window felts/beltline trim and some clearer turn signal lenses!
I have made some progress with the center console the past couple days. I got the painted and changed out the wood grain insert for the coin tray. I just painted the shifter bezel silver since the original chrome has rubbed off just like gauge cluster chrome does. Since the shifter bezel that came with the console is for an automatic, I am going to be doing some fabrication/modification to make it into a 4spd bezel.
As for the painting process, I went to my local auto body and paint supply and they hooked me up with some more of the Landau Black color coat by SEM, as well as this product of SEM's called "Vinyl Prep". It is basically a cleaner that you spray on generously to the vinyl surface to be painted, then wipe it with a cloth, and finally rinse it with water. You repeat this process until water during the rinsing process no longer beads on the vinyl surface. After that, it is ready to be painted!
For the arm rest/compartment lid, I just used the color coat/vinyl paint. The armrest is made of some type of dense foam, and took a little more than half a can to change it completely to black. It soaked in the paint quite well and isn't crunchy or brittle after painting either!
Pictures are as follows:
1) The console when I got it.
2) After Painting
3) Compartment lid/armrest after painting
4) Inside of compartment lid/armrest
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The compartment on this console is larger than the Merkur one that I have in the car at the moment. The extra stow-away space will be nice to have!
The e-brake seal is actually in pretty good shape, but slightly chewed up on one side. I ordered a new seal from SSC Enterprises and it should be here sometime next week!
Since my car doesn't have any wood grain trim anywhere on the interior or exterior, I decided to change out the panel/insert in the coin tray for something that better matches my car. I have seen replacement coin trays with stainless steel panels in place of the wood grain one, so I decided to go that route, but for something less expensive. I started by removing the wood grain panel and then used it as a template to cut out a new panel from a 1/16" thick sheet of aluminum which I purchased at Lowes with an x-mas gift card! This actually gives a mild stainless effect, but was significantly cheaper.
The coin tray isn't in amazing shape since a lot of the original chrome has bubbled up, but it will do for now until I can find one in better shape, or afford a replacement one.
1) Compartment sleeve
2) E-brake seal
3) Aluminum coin tray panel comparison
4) Coin tray in place
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Since the shifter bezel that came with the console is for an automatic, I will be modifying it for temporary use. I think you guys can figure out what I'll be doing by looking at the pix. :)
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I don't know if the designer or the machinist at the Ford production plant had a lazy arm or what, but neither side of the console base bezel is parallel in ANY way. Each side is different as far as "straight" lines go.
The pictures alternate. First one is of the right side, second is of the left side but of the same section.
Hopefully I can finish the shifter bezel tomorrow afternoon and then do a test fit of he console. Stay tuned!
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Last night I was able to finish the shifter bezel modification. Shortly after the last update, I had painted the automatic shifter bezel silver and clear coated it.
Basically I have taken a section of the 1/16" thick aluminum sheet and cut a hole in it, using a hole saw on a cordless drill, just large enough for the base of the shift boot to fit in. I used pictures of the manual transmission bezel for reference and it came out pretty close. After cutting, the edges were filed smooth and the sheet was then polished to a near mirror shine using Mother's Billet Polish.
To secure the sheet to the automatic shifter bezel, I used JB Weld around the inside edge and pressed it between a couple encyclopedias until dry.
Below is the finished product. I plan to have it installed by the end of the day.
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I got the console installed a couple days ago. The car was out of commission due to a differential check-up! :P
Here are some pics of the brackets I used. These are the original Mustang II brackets, which I had to order of eBay. They show up on eBay quite often and are easier to find than the console itself!
It is great to have these available when installing this console, as they fit the Pinto perfectly and no bracket modification is necessary to make it all fit straight!
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And some pictures of it installed. I think it matches the era of the car much better than the Merkur one did. Plus I now have a nicer and larger coin tray, as well as a twice as large armrest storage compartment! :D
First picture is comparison of the two. I ended up having to cut back the vinyl back to match the old console's length so that I could continue to use the stock under-dash cubby.
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Your effort paid off. It looks sharp, and keeping the Pinto cub-be makes it look factory.
Leonard
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Thanks Leonard! That's the look I have been going for with all of the modifications I have done to the car. I want the car to be economical, yet comfortable and functional while retaining the appearance of it all being stock.
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Unfortunate surprise happened today. I got my W-2 forms and filed my taxes....
I will be getting about $400 less than expected back this year, so I will not be replacing the windshield gasket, floor pan or the ball joints this year. Hopefully I can get the ball joints some time before summer, but the windshield gasket may have to wait.
I really wish I could find another part time job to get out of debt sooner. :(
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Dave1987:
The console looks "FANTASTIC", I was wondering :-\if a Mustang II console would work in a Pinto, now I know :smile:. I have looked at several on EBAY, and thought about buying one for my 1972, but now I think I'll get one and put in the 1971. That'll have to wait awhile too, as I've spent a fortune on the car already, and still need to get the minor body problems corrected :accident:, and the car painted. Maybe by fall. Seems I seen a console though at one of the salvage yards I visited, in a Mustang II, I should go back and check. If there is one, I can probably get it reasonable, and repair as needed. Anyway, you do have a beautiful Pinto... Good Luck!!!!!
Larry :police:
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hey i live in boise. ive actually seen your car around fairview and you probably seen my rusty baby blue pinto. actually jealouse.
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Good luck Larry! I have found two on eBay for about $50 each and $30 shipping. They don't sell very well, as I have noticed, so it shouldn't be to hard to find. The hardest part about finding a suitable one would be the color. I'm still a bit worried about the paint rubbing or scratching off the vinyl, but it has held up pretty well so far. Then again, I baby my car A LOT.
Joey! :welcome:
I've always wondered who drives that car! We should meet up some time! Every time I have seen your car you have always been heading south while I'm heading north. lol I hear that Sonics drive-in has a mini-car-show in the summers on Friday or Saturday nights in the summer. We should try to hit them up this summer and see how much attention the Pintos get in Boise! :D I guess we would have to get 2point3pinto and carlharris with a couple other Pinto people I know here in Boise to join up! :P I'm being serious though! 8)
Don't forget your put your pin on the member map! I'm getting lonely here in Boise. :(
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I dropped the tank in my car to find out why I was smelling gas after a fill up. I think it was the grommet for the vent valve, as it was pretty worn out, and didn't grab the valve body very tight. Here's what I did, as a reference for others!
I backed the car into the garage, leaving plenty of room behind the car so I could easily move around on the creeper and access the toolbox. I then lit up the propane heater, heated the garage to a more than comfortable warmth, then shut it off (no open heat sources when working on the gas tank!) and raised the rear end as high as I could and supported it with 2 1/2 ton jack stands at the ends of the axle. I also chocked the front wheels so the car wouldn't roll forwards.
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Once it was all setup and ready to go, I started by removing the gas cap to access the four torx screws which hold the filler neck to the inside of the quarter panel. After removing the filler neck, I stuck a fluid pump with a long hose into the tank until it hit the bottom of the tank, and siphoned as much gas as I could out of it, making the tank as light as possible to make things easier.
Once the tank was drained, I disconnected the vent valve hose next to the filler neck, the fuel sender connector and the delivery and return lines which run to the front of the car. When I was sure everything was disconnected, I proceeded by taking the floor jack under the center of the tank, raising it just until it touched, then removed the bolts behind the bumper that secure the two tank straps to the body. Once the straps were loose, I slowly lowered the floor jack while supporting the tank with my other hand until it had cleared the car.
I was quite surprised that there was minimal rust around the tank area! The leaf spring mounts, upper shock mounts and the leaf spring shackles are another story though. :(
I also painted the rear differential cover a couple weeks ago when I was working on it. :D
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To get the vent valve out of the top of the tank, I just pried it up with a screw driver, since the valve and the grommet were both getting replaced.
To remove the fuel sender, I used a drift and a hammer and tapped a tab at one side of the locking ring, then a tab on the other side and repeated this until it was free. Once the ring was out though, I had a bit of trouble getting the fuel sender out, as it was stuck to the original o-ring seal on the tank. I had to skinny a putty knife between the sender body and the tank to break it free.
The inside of the tank has a bad case of rust. I was able to rub a lot off with my finger, but I will need to drop it again in the future when funds are more sufficient and have it boiled out, then sealed with POR-15. For now I just dumped some gravel in the tank with a gallon of gas and shook it around like crazy. It cleaned a lot of the rust out, more than I had expected it to!
The following pictures of the fuel sender and pick-up unit give you a good idea of what condition the inner tank was!
Pic 1) Fuel sender float
Pic 2) What is left of the original pick-up screen
Pic 3) The fuel sender unit stripped
Pic 4) Comparison of the 78 Sedan sender unit, and a 77 Wagon sender unit
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I twisted the screen assembly off the wagon sender unit and put it onto my Sedan's unit since it was still clean and in one piece! I then cleaned up the float with a green scotch scrub pad and did a little bit of the same to the sender unit since I had it out. When I was finished cleaning the little parts, I took a scotch pad disc on a pneumatic die grinder and cleaned the sealing surface of the fuel sender to ensure a positive seal once it was all put back together.
Pic 1) Replacement pick-up screen
Pic 2) Cleaned up fuel float
Pic 3) Cleaned up sender sealing surface
Pic 4) Sending/Pick-up unit reassembled
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The final step was to put the sender unit back in with a new seal and tighten the locking ring in the same manner it was removed.
Before putting the tank back on, I removed the rust that was starting to form between the tank straps and coated the bare metal with "rust converter" and then spray can undercoated the surface to prevent it from coming back.
To lift the tank back on, it was a reverse procedure of what I did to remove it, and then dump the gas back into the tank by means of a gas can.
Here is a final picture showing the original sender o-ring compared to the new one.
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The car was pretty dirty after driving it for a couple weeks in the rain, snow and the condensation building up on it. I decided to give it a bath since the sun was out and it was about 40 degrees out (the warmest it has been in a couple weeks). I just hook up the hose to the utility room, turn on a little cold water, a little of the hot water from the water heater and go at it!
While the car was clean, I decided to put the replacement turn signal lenses on it that I got from the junk yard in Spokane a few weeks ago. I can at least see a little bit through these ones, making the turn signals brighter. The old ones (pictured) are foggy and have several cracks in them. I wish I could figure a way to clear up the old lenses!
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yeah i want to go to that mini show but i have work. but i work on ustick and maplegrove so i might stop by. and as for showin off my car...nahhh my car is in need of money and i just got back from vacation so my car needs the works right now and yeah i too have a problem with my driver side floor pan. it feels like im a flinstone cause i can probably sqweez my foot in this small rust hole and stop my car hahaha and its been very wet here in good ol idaho so yeah you know what i mean. where did you go to get your engine bored and placed with bigger pistons? i live like a couple blocks away from meridian machine shop across from the speedway.but yeah i too want to keep at my 77 pinto.
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My mom's cousin did the work for us. Looking at the original receipt from the motor work, it was done at Joe's Motor Machine Shop, 1101 N. 27th Street, on State St. I do not know if it was discounted or not, since my mom's cousin has known the guy since the late 60s. We paid $769.38 for the following:
Engine kit (less cam & followers)
Lifters
Vavle seats
Spring shims
Cam bearings and installation
Rockers
Plugs
Glass beaded (entire block and head)
Drill & tap Rails
Degrease and boil out
Rebore
Pistons and piston alignment
Crank polish
Head shaved (not sure how much)
Total of $435.46 in parts, and $268.00 in labor
This was done on 9/8/03, but google maps shows they are still around.
It was a lot of work he had done for us going through people he knew and trusted. I'm very thankful for his efforts and want to drive out to horseshoe bend to show him the car 5 years after all of it.
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that thing is just awesome!! i also have a 78 coupe mine is orange and in exelent shape 78k all original. well exept the appliance mags. it looks as if your in idaho. if you have no plans in september on the 19th id love to see it at my clubs show!! the Crook County Rodders cruise to central oregon. its in prineville. we have a good turnout around 500 cars. anyway i love pintos and id like mine not to be the only one in attendance there. so if ya got the time and money. come on out!!!
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I would be more than happy to go! It would have to be a one day trip thing though, as my sister's birthday is the day after, but I can work something out!
I found an original rubber trunk mat at B&T yesterday, which looks and fit so much better than the gray fabric my brother put in there!
I also found the "under-dash A/C shield" from a 76 with factory A/C, so I will be finding some way to make it work and still have my vent pulls.
I pulled two 14x7 Western Wheel 4 lug slotted mags off a late 60's mustang coupe. However, research shows that they are Datsun 280Z bolt pattern, and measurements confirm that they won't fit my axles. :(
Also yesterday, I received the wood grain dash panel in the mail from Kim (pintogirl)! Thank you soo much Kim! I trashed the one that I pulled from the 77 Bobcat here locally by not measuring enough times and cutting the gauge holes too big. I plan to paint it black and have the silver pinstripe on the top and bottom. I hope it comes out okay.
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I would be more than happy to go! It would have to be a one day trip thing though, as my sister's birthday is the day after, but I can work something out!
I found an original rubber trunk mat at B&T yesterday, which looks and fit so much better than the gray fabric my brother put in there!
I also found the "under-dash A/C shield" from a 76 with factory A/C, so I will be finding some way to make it work and still have my vent pulls.
I pulled two 14x7 Western Wheel 4 lug slotted mags off a late 60's mustang coupe. However, research shows that they are Datsun 280Z bolt pattern, and measurements confirm that they won't fit my axles. :(
Also yesterday, I received the wood grain dash panel in the mail from Kim (pintogirl)! Thank you soo much Kim! I trashed the one that I pulled from the 77 Bobcat here locally by not measuring enough times and cutting the gauge holes too big. I plan to paint it black and have the silver pinstripe on the top and bottom. I hope it comes out okay.
I hope it comes out ok too!!! I want to see some pics. if it does!!! :D
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Today I got the A/C shield on the car. I figured that I would get it done before the dash panel since it needed to be painted. At least, then, the paint can be dry by the time I get the rest of the dash work done!
I had to drill a somewhat large hole in the shield to still have a functional vent pull on the passenger side. Since the A/C cars didn't have fresh/cool air vent pulls (for obvious reasons), I had to cut a small section out of the top of the shield to make a notch for the vent pull guide/hanger and drill the hole mentioned earlier.
Here are some pictures three hours into the paint's drying process. The last two photos show the notch I had to cut out of the top of the shield to make room for the vent pull hanger.
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The first picture shows the odd location of the hole drilled for the vent pull. Notice it is isn't exactly right on the fold in the plastic. Not easy to get accurate, since it was about 1/8" lower than that fold.
The hole wasn't the only modification needed to be done to make the vent pull remain functional. I also had to fabricate a new pull shaft. I used a 1/8" steel rod I purchased from Home Depot. I started by using my dad's propane torch to heat the rod to a bright red color, then pounded one end flat against the bench vise with a large hammer. Then I heated it again and added the loop at the flat end. All of this so that it would be as identical to the original pull shaft as I could get it. Somewhere along all of this, I lost the original shaft, otherwise I would have snapped some comparison photos.
This new shaft is about 1-1.25 inches longer, since the A/C shield sticks out a little farther than where the vent pull knob would originally stop when pushed in all the way.
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Dad's camera doesn't take pictures as clear as mine does, so I will try to get some better pictures of the shield later. It could be a little while though, as we are expecting snow for the next five days! :(
I went ahead and ordered new ball joints and steering bellows from RockAuto.com tonight. $122.92 with the ground shipping. I figure that if I'm planning a road trip down to Utah, I better chance this out and get an alignment done before summer! Now I just need to save to purchase the windshield gasket from autokrafters.c om and do the repair this summer.
pintogirl (kim?), I will try to get the dash panel done next week. I am just very nervous about cutting holes in a nice dash panel again, since I trashed the last one! :(
Updates may not come as promised. Dad lost his job (contracted to micron to install their machines), and things are kind of crazy around here right now. If I disappear for some unknown reason, it means we had to give up the internet. If all else fails, I will try to get to the library to check back here.
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I saw one of those shields in the junkyard a few months ago. I broke it trying to remove it, but wanted to install it in my car to hide the workings of the heater that are visible in the footwell. I hadn't gotten as far into it as thinking about the vent rod. That looks like it took a lot of time and patience, and the result was worth it! :D
Chuck
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Maybe 4 hours of work of cutting, fabricating, painting and installation.
I installed it for just that reason, to hide the heater box and junk under the dash that just looks tacky! I swear that we share the same mindset for resto-modding our cars, Chuck! ;D
To remove it, you have to remove the glove box insert. Once removed, there are two screws that hold it to the dash, about 1.5 to 2 inches away from each end (of the shield) along the inside of the dash. They are 1/4" (I think) screws, the same size as the ones for the vent pull hangers. Once these are out it should just fall off.
I rarely ever see them, and just had to get it when I saw it at my new regular yard! :)
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Ball joints arrived today! YAY! I hope I can get some time to install them before the end of the month.
I will finally be able to get my alignment done since the engine rebuild was done! :D
Here are a couple of better pictures of the AC shield. Also, a couple pictures of my next mini-modification!
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Thanks for the advice (hopefully I'll see another one someday). The interior looks great! I like the hybrid shifter and the way the MII console nestles the factory cubby hole.
Chuck
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Thanks for the compliment Chuck! I'm sure you will find one, it is just a matter of time. I will keep an eye out as well.
I got the ball joints done yesterday afternoon. Scheduled an alignment for Monday at 10AM, and I will also be asking them to install the new rack and pinion bellows, as I have had enough with pickle forks for one year, lol.
Once that's done, the car will be road-trip-worthy again! Bring on the summer cruise nights! 8)
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Good work! The shield looks great and I'm glad to hear that your Pinto will be in great driving condition soon! Fun times await...
-beegle55
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Dave: The air conditioner shield looks fantastic!!!!! You have a sweet little Pinto there. I too want to put the seat hinge covers on (not sure if that's what you call them), but I only have one (for the 1971). Did you get yours at a salvage yard? Or did you purchase them as new old stock? I'd like to purchase some for both my Pintos, could you tell me how you acquired them? I went to the shop yesterday, and they're still working on the ball joints of the 1971. I'm really hoping to bring her home by next weekend. Once the weather breaks, I'll be working on her till she looks new again. I'm hoping to take her to her first car show in April. Anyway, keep up the good work, you've got a great piece of Ford history there. Larry :police:
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Thanks larry and beegle55!
Larry, I found my seat hinge covers at the junk yard. They came off a 79' Mustang, but I also noticed that the fairmonts at the junk yard have them too, so they would be worthy candidates too! If you like, I can go out and pull a set when the weather clears (it's raining here for the next few days).
The set I am going to be using is originally white, but I am painting them black using some SEM paint.
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Dave:
Hey thanks, but since I know the Mustangs and Fairmonts have them, I too will look locally. If I don't find them, I'll let you know. I already have one, which I got with the purchase of the seats in Greenfield, but one was missing. If I can at least find them for the 1971 I'll be happy. Thanks for your help, I was wondering what I was going to do about those covers, as I really wanted them. Your car looks great. Larry :police:
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Thanks Larry, and glad to be of help!
I just got back (about 2 minutes ago) from dropping the Pinto off at Les Schwab for a thrust alignment. First time the car has been in a shop in nearly 11 years!!!!
I'm worried about other people touching, er, working on her, and have this nervous anticipation feeling in my stomach. I think pintogirl and blupinto would know what I'm talking about! lol
I can't wait to get her home and drive her with the new front end! :D
UPDATE: The car is home again, and drives straight when I let go of the wheel! :D The only adjustment they had to do is the toe out and pull it in a bit, drives like new now! :)
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Thanks Larry, and glad to be of help!
I just got back (about 2 minutes ago) from dropping the Pinto off at Les Schwab for a thrust alignment. First time the car has been in a shop in nearly 11 years!!!!
I'm worried about other people touching, er, working on her, and have this nervous anticipation feeling in my stomach. I think pintogirl and blupinto would know what I'm talking about! lol
I can't wait to get her home and drive her with the new front end! :D
UPDATE: The car is home again, and drives straight when I let go of the wheel! :D The only adjustment they had to do is the toe out and pull it in a bit, drives like new now! :)
Yah, I know what you mean. Hubby's kid installed my windshield when I wasn't home and he put the chrome trim on. I wasn't happy about that. I would have prefered to do that myself. In fact I did take it all back off and re did it because he had it on wrong.
Congrats on the like new ride!!!! I have to say that hubby was quite suprised on how the Pinto rides. He said that if felt more like a luxury car!!!
Kim
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They do ride quite smoothly for a compact sedan of the 70s. The only thing I might change would be softer shocks....Clas sic brand are pretty stiff. I wouldn't mind some Koni's. 8)
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I got the seat hinge covers on, with some effort. The steel (or is it iron) they use for the pivoting elbow on the seats is very hard to tap. I drilled the holes for the screws starting at the smallest bit, then working my way up to 1/8". Once I was there, I had to tap the hole for the securing screws, and ended up BREAKING one of the tapping bits! I had to get another big and re-drill the hole elsewhere. Lucky me, the one I started with was actually off by 1/8"!
Right now the seat hinge covers do nothing cosmetically, aside from the small bottom half of the hinge that shows past the seat covers. I can't wait to get my original seats re-upholstered!
I started on the dash panel that pintogirl sent me. I have the wood grain polished off, touched up the silver edging, did the cut outs for the gauges, and mounted the Pinto dash emblem. Only one problem, two of the three gauge holes are messy around the top and I need to find some way to make some cleaner looking. I'm thinking of pulling out the Bondo and adding to the holes to make them smaller, then sand away what is necessary to make it look right. I'll get it figured out some how, but any tips would be greatly appreciated.
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What are you using to cut the holes? I would use a hols saw and a drill press with a block of wood behind (under) it should give you a very nice clean hole.
Hole saw kit at harbor freight on sale about $5
Phil
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I did use a hole saw, but the gauge face is slightly larger than any of the hole saws available, so I used a file to make the holes slightly larger where needed. Now the holes are rough around the top edges and too big in some spots. Somehow, I need to fill in the empty space, as it looks really tacky.
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I am "extending" the plastic around the inside of the holes to round them out after the rough filing job. So far it is coming along great. I'm taking my time with this so it comes out right. I would get frustrated and have to do it all over again if I kept looking over at my temp/oil pressure/volt meter gauges and seeing it all messed up.
I will post pics when the panel is done, as well as once it is secured to the dash!
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Well here is the work completed so far:
I cut out the holes with a hole saw slightly smaller than the face of the gauges, then used a file to enlarge them. Well, the plastic is softer than I anticipated and it ended up distorting the holes in spots, and I had to patiently fix the problem areas with bondo, a small razor blade, and some 320 grit sandpaper.
After the fine repairs, I painted it using satin black Krylon plastic paint, "drew" the silver stripes on with the metallic sharpie, and then clear coated with Krylon satin clear coat. A few of hours later, here is what I got:
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Wow, that looks great Dave!!!! Now that you are a pro, I will have to find another dash piece to send to you, so you can make me one!!!! LOL I am getting used to the gauges being in the dash, may keep them in there now!!!! LOL Just need to find a clock or amp gauge!!!! LOL
Good work!!!
Kim
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Very cool Dave! I just installed the a/c style console in my car, I'm planning to put gauges in the opening where the heater control would be, but hadn't figured out how I would trim the face. That's inspirational, and I may 'borrow' your technique to create a face for my gauges. ;)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3021/3318469952_539ef8f259.jpg)
This is before I added the wood trim from a 72 to cover the hole.
Chuck
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Good to hear that this will provide a reference for others! The one noticeable thing that I will be doing, is sinking the face of the gauges into the trim, rather than having the black trim of my gauges sit "on top" of the trim.
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Hey!!!!! the gauge cluster looks fantastic :amazed:. Never used the metallic sharpie, that should help me restore my instrument cluster and heater control panel. I was wondering how I was going to fill in the silver areas which had rubbed off. I just love this web site, I find a lot of useful information from others. By the way, your car is fantastic. Larry :police:
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(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3021/3318469952_539ef8f259.jpg)
Where'd you get the radio bezel?
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Got the dash done today, and I think it came out great! It isn't perfect, but it looks really good. I will redo it when I change the windshield gasket and the dash for the spare one I have in storage.
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And a shot of the new dash look. What do you guys think?
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dholvrsn: The radio plate came out of an 80 wagon I had about 4 years ago, it was modified (poorly) before, so I didn't mind finishing the job to add a cd player. I cut the roof off that wagon and used it as my yard truck for a year. It was liquidated with other cars and property when my illness started getting out of hand and I had to move in with my brother (no space for 4 Pinto's, an 87 Mustang 4 cyl and an 85 Ranger Pickup (also 2.3).
Dave: The dash looks awesome. I agree with you that the black/silver look goes very nicely with your car. Keep up the good work! :D
Chuck
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Chuck started a thread of his car when he first got it, showing his car in the "unmolested" state before he started any work on it. This gave me enough motivation to get the photos up, of my car, before it was ever driven on the road, and one of her with her first new car.
She requested to be blurred out of the photos, and I did that of my grandmother as well. The salesman (Dave), I think should be fine though.
I left them in as high a resolution as I could without destroying the photo quality. They have some spots on them due to the scanner's dirty glass, but the photos themselves are just like new!
Just think, how often do you get to see photos of your own Pinto, back when it was purchased at the dealership, and before it ever had plates on it? I find these pictures to be quite meaningful to the history of the car, and gives it just that much more character.
It's not much, but it is all I have of it right now. There are more photos, but perhaps I will get those from my mother for my b-day this year, like I did these ones last year!
Yes, that is a Mustang II in the background, another one of the cars I hope to own and restore one day. :P
Emmett Ford, the dealership, has since been closed. However the lot it sat on, and the office building, are still there. I plan to take my Pinto back down to Emmett this summer, sit the car where it was in these pictures, and take some updated shots with my 35mm in both black and white, and color film. I think it would add some interesting shots of the car for it's photo album.
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The Pony got a new pace maker today....Alter nator was on it's way out and clicking. Lifetime warranty exchange is helpful! :)
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Pinto gets a replacement smog pump today, going out to the junk yard to get a good replacement. The one in the car is the original, and is clicking very loudly (bearing going out). I figure I'll swap it out before it seizes and breaks the belt!
I purchased a Pinto correct 77/78 front valance from CarlHarris (member here) yesterday, as well as a tube header with a 2.75" outlet on it! :o I will hopefully have the valance repainted and installed in the next couple weeks, and the header will be going on the car when I have the exhaust line rebuilt. The exhaust will be redone with new 2 1/2" pipe, new catylitic converter as well as a flowmaster 40 series muffler. Should have it sounding MUCH more throaty and closer to a V8 at idle, as I am wanting. Exhaust will be at year from now at the most, but if I can scrounge together the money to do it sooner, I will have it done by the end of the year! :D
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Hey Dave:
My car has the original pump. It sounds like it's on oxygen when you listen under the hood. psh...psh...ps h...psh. Other than that it doesn't make noise, but now I know what to listen for! ;D
Exhaust is on my list too. I wanna do the same thing, header and bigger exhaust. My exhaust is all original except the cat. I had it replaced 4 years ago, but the heat shield rattles and the tube hanging out the side (about 3/4 inch) doesn't go anywhere. My car sounds like it has an exhaust leak. The pipe is pretty rotted but the original muffler is there. You should post a u-tube video when it's done so I can see how it sounds! Money is an issue for me too, once again we're in the same boat!
My goal with my car: Luxury feel and Sports performance! (A bit of a sleeper too!)
Chuck :afro:
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I got the pump from an early 80s Mercury Grand Marquis, and the Pinto correct pulley from a late 70s Lincoln Continental! What a combo, huh? :P
I also found a couple glove box lights with the switch, as well as the ashtray lighting. Just need to figure out how to wire them up now! :D
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Dave1987, you get the light thing figured out, maybe you can help me connect the cables back up for my heat/defrost. Thankfully, I have the 1972 Pinto to use a model. I can look to see how it's done, maybe I can get the 1971's hooked up okay. Guess we'll see. Larry :police:
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If you come across another ashtray light, I'm looking for one! I haven't looked at the wiring too much yet, my glove box light is just filling the hole. I have the wire to the pass dome light switch, but haven't gone looking for the plug (it should be high on the right under the dash near the windshield), I'm waiting on cashflow for switches from ssc. I seem to recall not finding a plug for a factory radio on my car, but I can't remember looking that hard ??? I just hooked the wire under one side of the radio fuse in the fuse box and used an inline fuse.
Chuck
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I have a crazy mind for cross referencing things....
I found the CORRECT style of ashtray light from a 78 Thunderbird. It mounts "inside the dash" on top of the hole in the top of the ash tray.
I went through about 40% of the 70s Ford/Lincoln/Mercury cars looking for an ashtray light, and most of them had it, but it was a light that hung down inside the ashtray from a plastic retainer.
I will try to get pictures, but have no batteries for the camera right now.
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And then I cross referenced that with the three 77-79 T-birds and the 77 cougar I saw last time I was at u-pull. Didn't even think to look there!
Chuck
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I know, I had been thinking about it for the last few dozen trips I have made to the junk yard, but it didn't really "click" with me until I went to find a smog pump for my car, from a different model ford/lincoln/mercury!
It is sometimes surprising how much Ford recycled parts back then. Too bad they don't do that anymore and save themselves some money....Maybe then they wouldn't be so far in debt!
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The project of the day is.....
:D VALANCE! :D
Photo is kind of cruddy, took the picture with my phone as I don't have any batteries for the cameras right now. I primed it, speed-dried it really well with the heat gun, the painted it. It's going to be black, but is coming out very nicely! It's supposed to be a satin black, but it is coming across a bit more glossy, but that's okay! Once it is on the car, I can paint the rocker panels black (there are spots of yellow showing through) and the whole car will look semi-correct! ;)
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I need one of those! :surprised:
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I got it all painted black, mounting hardware as well. Put it on the car today.....
I don't really care for it. The black contrasts too much and it hangs too low on the Sedan to make things look right. Perhaps it may look better with it painted the same color as the car, but I couldn't really tell. After seeing it on the car, I can kind of understand why I have only ever seen it on a wagon in the past, it just doesn't look right on a sedan!
I may keep it around until I get my car painted and have it done too, just to see how it might look. If not, I will let you know Chuck. It would be much easier to put it on your car and have it look better, white is easier to obtain than metallic blue with pearl flake. :P
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Agreed. I touched up my car with generic 'bright white' rattle can paint, and you can't tell unless you really, really look. (same with the mirrors). Heck yeah, if you don't want that valance, keep me in mind...no rush of course, and if you do end up using it, that's cool too.
Chuck :afro:
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Finished up a roll of Ilford Delta professional black and white film, on my Canon AE-1 Program (35mm camera). I've been practicing photography for the past year or so and working on some amazing shots of the car. We'll see if they come out as well as I want them to. I may have messed the aperture up though, we'll see. I'll have them back from development (having them done at a professional camera shop so the pictures don't get messed up), and they should be back on Wednesday.
The unique thing about Ilford Delta film, is that it is a true black and white film. If processed through an automated color processing machine, it will wipe out the photos as if you never took any. I don't do much true black and white photography because of this, since it costs me nearly $16 - $18 to take pictures with it, including the film and developing charges. Who knows, maybe we'll see if I can get a really nice photo done and have it it The Pinto Times? :D
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That valance looks nothing like mine. mines pert much flat.
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That valance looks nothing like mine. mines pert much flat.
On the 78's, Rallye cars and Cruising Wagons had this 'valance' (i.e. chin spoiler) under the front bumper. The other cars of this year (like mine) have nothing under the bumper. Are we talking apples or oranges? This isn't the 'gravel guard' that sits in the top of the bumper under the grille. ??? ???
Got a pic of yours?
Chuck :afro:
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Senior moment again, I looked at it again and yeap that's a spoiler. Does it bolt to the bumper? I want one for my car to go with the rear spoiler.
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It bolts to the bottoms of the fenders.
Chuck
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I got the pump from an early 80s Mercury Grand Marquis, and the Pinto correct pulley from a late 70s Lincoln Continental! What a combo, huh? :P
I also found a couple glove box lights with the switch, as well as the ashtray lighting. Just need to figure out how to wire them up now! :D
Dave,
I have a factory Pinto wiring diagram book for the 1980. Tomorrow I can take a look at the diagrams & let you know what goes where. I might even be able to get some copies made of the pages.
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It's a valance, I should have taken pictures of it while it was on the car, just to show you guys how goofy the car looks with it on! lol
r4pinto: Thank you, but no need to worry about the wiring diagram. I got the lights wired up and they work great! I don't think a diagram would have helped to much, as my brother and dad have chopped the under-dash harness a lot over the past 20 years. Not really any connectors left with the added gauge lighting and radio swaps done through-out the years. :(
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My new household adventure....F inding the original gas cap. My dad said that he kept it and thought that maybe he stowed it in the quarter panel. After I started doing work on the car, I cleaned the quarter panels out and all I found was the original ignition switch, a few rags and a lot of rust flakes. Looks like it's time to explore the attic! :D
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That sill beats what I found in my quarters. Is that a spare switch or one you previously replaced?
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It was the original one from the factory that my dad had replaced in the 80s! :P
So I scavenged through every last box in the attic. No gas cap, but I did find the ORIGINAL insurance paperwork from when the car was first purchased in 1978, up to about 1983! I'm pretty excited about finding more original paperwork to add to the Pinto's physical history. I also found the Fel-Pro fender mat that my dad used to use in the 80s while working on the Pinto! :D
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You know...anythin g you find from the past history of your Pinto, is a true treasure. Glad you at least found some paperwork on it. I'm sure the gas cap will show up as you explore....Lar ry :police:
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Today I installed the front valance that I purchased from Carl Harris. I used up the last of the old can of paint from my car. The paint on the valance is slightly darker than the car itself, but since it is UNDER the car, it doesn't look too bad at all! Here are some shots of it in the garage. I will get some better pictures while I am at the car show on Saturday. :)
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Dave, seeing your 78 look that good makes me want to keep going on my 77. She's a total wreck with lots of rust underneath but seeing a beautiful 78 like yours helps keep me going. I do like that color. It has been narrowed down to one of a few different shades of blue I might paint mine.
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Thanks r4pinto! The color is actually a Chrysler color, Canyon Blue to be exactly. It has a tinge of pearl flake added to it though, so it gains a slight yellow sheen in the sunlight. Still debating whether or not to repaint it this color or the stallion scheme.
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Dave: The Pinto looks great....the valance is a nice feature. Yes, I agree with the color of blue you've painted it, it really compliments the design of the car well. Great Pinto, glad to see someone enjoy it so much.....Larry :police:
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So I went out to the junk yard today to kill some time, and to search for the mysterious 12 point head bolts that are reuseable up to 2-3 times. I got distracted and ended up pulling a 2.3 auxilery shaft in case my fuel pump lobe ever decides to grind away into nothingness, and the alternator harness from that bobcat.
After pulling those, I moved on to a 91 mustang with a 2.3. It has been there longer than the bobcat has been but I never thought anything of it until I popped off the valve cover to check the head bolts, and low and behold! It had a roller cam! Not only that, but it also has the EIGHT plug 2.3 head with the static ignition (no distributor). I couldn't pass this opportunity up to get my hands on a roller cam, so I nabbed it and the followers with the rest of my goodies and went on my way. All they wanted for the cam and followers was $20 even, what a steal! For the aux shaft and the alt harness, it was $6. So for $26, I got the roller cam and followers, a spare aux shaft, and a replacement alternator harness, not a bad day at all!
Funds for gas will be tight until the middle of next week, but I think it was well worth it, as the cam should pay itself off after a month. :)
I also met a nice gentleman and his son who are building a 2.3 mustang II race car. We chatted for about an hour, off and on, about Pintos and mustangs. He is looking for a few things I have in storage, so we swapped numbers and we should be meeting up quite a bit in the future. :)
One question, should I go back and snag the lifters to? Mine are not that old, so I was thinking I could get away with using my existing lifters and just swap the cam and followers/rollers.
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It couldn't hurt. If anything you will have a spare set if anything goes wrong with the set in your car. I think you are right about the roller cam. I'm not 100% sure, since when I installed the one on my car a lifter failed, then the bottom end went out. Man, I wish I had your luck at junkyards and with the Pinto in general.
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Looking for anything odd or specific? I may have it in storage or be able to get it at the junk yard for cheap.
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Well yesterday I got the roller cam in, and set my timing dead on! The Pony's valve train noise is gone and she seems to accelerate much smoother now, which is a relief. I went and pulled the lifters from the Mustang and used them with this cam just so everything is matched, glad I did since it has eliminated my lifter noise. Now I have the Crane Cam's "Blue Racer" cam as a back up in case anything happens, which I hope does not!
Next thing in plans, is to figure out how to use a set of pneumatic hood lifts instead of the stock prop. It beats having to replace that prop pivot every couple years (I have my hood up a lot! :)).
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dave check with pintoman about the hood supports he or one of his friend helped designe some for a pinto and can get the info for you
phil
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Thanks Phil. I actually did some junk yard hunting and a lot of measuring to rig up a setup that worked. It involved parts from three different cars, but it works like a dream! Something I've always wanted on my Pinto! ;D
Upper hood brackets are from a 92 Pontiac Grand Prix, Lower pivot studs are from a 97 Ford Taurus, and the struts themselves are from a 92 Mercury Cougar.
The struts used in the kit from Redline Tuning are 20.5", from what I can tell judging by measurements, angle when fully extended, and location of their mounting hardware. I tried to find a good set of 20.5" struts at the junk yard, but the best I could do were 20" from the 92 Mercury Cougar. I used the same mounting hardware locations as the Redline Tuning kit does, but I moved the hood stud back 1/4", and the inner fender stud location forward 1/4" to compensate for the 1/2" difference. As with the Redline Tuning kit, I had to remove material from the battery hold down, but not so much that it weakens the structural integrity of it.
All I have at the moment is my phone to take pictures with, so these arn't the best photos, but the modification can be seen. I will try to get better pictures and a video of it up soon too.
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I forgot to add that I do realize the struts are on upside down (withe the cylinder mounted on the bottom). I haven't had any issues with them mounted this way, but if anyone knows the specifics of why they are usually mounted with the cylinder on top, I would be happy to hear!
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I forgot to add that I do realize the struts are on upside down (withe the cylinder mounted on the bottom). I haven't had any issues with them mounted this way, but if anyone knows the specifics of why they are usually mounted with the cylinder on top, I would be happy to hear!
My guess would be to keep water out of them?? Other then that, I don't know!! I would be interested in finding out too!!
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About a month and a half to two months ago my car was hit in the passenger side quarter panel. I posted pictures of the damage and spoke about it in another thread here. Seeing as this is my project thread for my car I figure I should at least post the progress photos of the repair. Also shown is the color difference between the existing faded paint on the deck lid as well as the new paint on the quarter panel. Not to noticeable in the shade, but in the sun you can tell it has been painted.
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Dave, looks good. It's still a shame but atleast it wasn't any worse than it was.
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Thanks r4! I'm just glad she's still in one piece. I'm in a slightly similar situation as Chuck right now. Registration expired on her and I can't afford to re-register, so she's sitting in the parking lot at my apartment complex getting paint misting buffed off her and the bumpers removed and slightly buffed. I plan to replace the scratched up door handles while she's parked, as well as fix my seat belt buzzer wiring. Hopefully she will be back on the road soon, it's depressing seeing her bake in the summer sun and not go anywhere. :(
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I'm up and running Dave! :fastcar:
Hope you will be soon. Best wishes! :)
Chuck :afro:
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Well I am back on the road again! The car still needs a new steering rack and windshield gasket, but all in due time.
I managed to nab a roof rack from a wagon for $14.99, but I am not sure if it will fit well on a Sedan. Is it possible?
Also, the roof strips "under" the rack are two pieces; the chrome on top and the securing bracket inside it. The two inner strips have the inside securing bracket rusting into pieces at the mounting points. Is there any way to repair this or should I just look for two new strips??
I only plan to put a roof rack on the car since the clear coat on the roof is peeling madly and just looks ugly. The roof rack should detur a lot of it, but I see myself using it a lot in the end.
One more note on the roof rack. Do I need to reinforce anything from the inside to keep the roof from collapsing when items on placed on it?
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Hey Dave!
In my experience with the wagon roof rack, there's a 'tube nut' similar to what holds the mirror on the car that the screws secure to. The wagon didn't have any additional supports in the roof. We took a rack off my mom's 82 Escort wagon and put it on her 80 Granada, the rack should flex some, I'd think. Move it around to see how it looks before you screw it down.
Chuck :afro:
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yeah they Secure with tube nuts and the racks on the wagon and hatch/trunk are the same
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Roof rack plans put on hold. The roof strips have the mounting strips inside of them rusted away at the hold down points, so I will either be finding some inner strips in better shape, or modifying them to make them work.
Saturday is the car show, I will be cleaning up the car tomorrow to get it ready.
I will be going out to Emmett in the next couple days (Sunday after noon) to take picture of the car at the dealership where it was purchased. On the way home, I will meet up with the owners of my mother's old house in Eagle and see if they won't mind me taking some pictures of the car in front of their home that are similar to the ones my mom gave me. After that I will be heading back to Meridain and take a picture of the car at my cousin's old Cheveron Service Station which is now a flower shop. It is where my mom had 99.9% of all the service dones on the car. Last stop will be just down the raod from where I am currently living to get a picture of the car in front of my parent's first home where I grew up playing in the car. I will post pictures when I get them uploaded and touched up. :)
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Taking all those pix, in front of hold homes and businesses, is something like I would like to do. Great idea...I still have some of the old shops around where I live, where I use to have work done and such. I'm gonna do the same thing....I really enjoy going into my past, and remembering my childhood. It was a great one..I was fortunate. Larry :police:
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Well my adventure has been put on hold. Not enough money for gas. Yeah it's only about $15 in gas to get around to these places, but right now that's what I am using in four days of driving to and from work. :(
I WILL get these pictures done before the end of the year, I promised myself (more like a new year thing) that I would.
Finances are really bad right now. :(
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My Pinto passed emissions again this year! YAY! Only took one try this year instead of 13 tries! :P
New Air Filter
New Oil
Retarded Timing A Few Degrees
Fuel Air Mixture Leaned Out (Until motor shivvers)
Adjusted Curb Idle To Compensate For Lean Mixture
Easy as pie this year! :)
Now I just need to get those photos up! :mad:
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My Pinto passed emissions again this year! YAY! Only took one try this year instead of 13 tries! :P
New Air Filter
New Oil
Retarded Timing A Few Degrees
Fuel Air Mixture Leaned Out (Until motor shivvers)
Adjusted Curb Idle To Compensate For Lean Mixture
Easy as pie this year! :)
Now I just need to get those photos up! :mad:
Congratulation s to you AND your Pinto!!! :drunk:
Dwayne :smile:
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Yay!!!!!!! Always excited when a Pinto clears an obstacle. Congratulation s.
Larry :police:
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Here's a picture of my car at the local Patty's Burger Time Cruise Night I frequented every Saturday this summer (2009). We had a professional photographer there every other week and I managed to get my car in a few shots. Unfortunately, this is the best of the ones with my car in it. What matters is that it's getting some attention! :D
http://hotrodhigh.zenfolio.com/p403991680/h38d146c3#h38d146c3 (http://hotrodhigh.zenfolio.com/p403991680/h38d146c3#h38d146c3)
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Eww! Pinto smells strongly like antifreeze inside the car when the heater is first turned on and very slowly dissipates. Looks like it's time to swap out the heater core for the spare I pulled from the Bobcat year year. :( Not looking forward to this next Wednesday. :'(
I'll take the spare down to Radiator King and have them pressure test it and clean it. In the mean time, I will pull the heater assembly out and clean it all out (I'm sure it's full of crud) and fix the door seal.
Anything special I should know aside from what's in the Haynes manual?
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good luck and most recomend removing the seat better access while laying on your back working under the dash.
phil
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I'm planning to remove it the way Haynes instructs. Unbolting the blower motor from the outside of the firewall, then disconnecting the defrost ducting, following up by removing the entire box assembly while pulling the hoses through the firewall. Seems easy enough, but nothing on this car is. lol
I do plan to remove the passenger seat, glove box door and insert as well as the under-dash AC shield I installed, so as to gain easier access during the removal procedure.
Once the box is out, it's off to A Radiator King in boise to have them pressure test the replacement core (they only charge $5!), and then to O'Reilly's to get new hoses.
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good luck and maybe that will fix the heat problem mine gets very hot in only a few minutes like less than 5
phil
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Haha, I guess you saw my post in pintogirl's thread! :P
I'm guessing it's plugged up or something. I hope it helps, I really do!
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I got the heater core changed out yesterday after receiving my 73 wagon.
Replacing the core was a five hour task, less than I expected actually!
I redid the seals on everything and new hoses as well.
It doesn't heat up any quicker than before, but it doesn't stink anymore!
I can't fully test how well it works once the thermostat opens, since the car won't heat up to 190 degrees with the weather we have had (to cold outside). It gets up to 160, and stays around there. If I drive 35 mpg in third gear for long enough it eventually gets up to 190 where the thermostat pops open, but quickly cools back down enough to sit at 160-170, after wards.
While having the heater box out, I did a visual inspection of the firewall from the inside, the cool air intake hole as well as the cowl from inside. No rust at all from the inside, and I cannot find any traces of water leakage on the passenger side. I'm thinking the leakage I have on the driver's side may be coming from the wiper posts.
What material should I replace the existing wiper post seals with?
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Yup the pass side wiper post is what took out my pass side floor pan in my crusing wagon. I used that black clay caulk stuff from 3m to seal both posts. It comes in a small box with a bunch of 12 inch or so strips
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Needed to post some updated shots! :)
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car looks great dave!!
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I agree, it looks great!!
That is the color of Pinto I need to find, but it needs to be a 71-73 sedan!! LOL Once I find that one, my search for Pintos will be over! Ok, I'm hoping LOL! Anyway, your Pinto's color is the color my parents had when I was younger and I'd like to build one to look just like theirs! ;D
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The paint is actually a 1992 Jeep color, Canyon Blue. My brother repainted it in autobody class during highschool.
Sherwin Williams - Ultra 7000 Series Paints
1992 - 1992 Jeep - Code: AY96KC3
Canyon Blue Metallic
That's the paint type for those of you interested!
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Looks very good! You didn't need to respray the whole car after the quarter repair, huh?
Congrats on passing your emissions test!
:afro:
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Thanks Chuck! Nope, not the whole car, but you can definitely tell where it has been painted if you are really admiring the car. It's pretty dark compared to the trunk lid, but the guy did a great job blending the paint across the quarter panel up to the door!
The mist from the clear coat was ALL OVER the car though, which was not fun to buff off. :(
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Gonna try tackling the water leak under the dash again today, after work. With all of the rain, the driver's side floor mat (rubber) fills with a puddle of water, every night. :(
When I did the heater core, I removed the rest of the rotted insulation that was under the dash. What used to be a thick insulating material had turned into a crumbling wonder of brown fluff! This insulation used to be stuck under the dash along the wiper post section of the cowl, so I am suspecting the wiper post seals are gone.
I will be pulling the wiper posts and the motor to replace the seals with some nice ones I pulled from the 78 bobcat this spring, and I will be putting some sealant on them to just to make sure it doesn't keep leaking. My windshield gasket has a few small cracks, but nothing really bad. I sealed it up with some silicone sealant last year and it didn't help at all, so my strongest bet is the fresh air ducts or the wiper system.
Wish me luck!
On a side note, I did get the good insulation from the 78 bobcat this spring as well, which I will be sticking up there once I am sure it's not leaking.
For the pictures below, the first one is of the old insulation from the cowl. The left is the old deteriorated crap, and the right is the good material from the bobcat.
Second picture is what I found in the heater box when I tore it down. Not to bad for 31 years!
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Good luck man. I struggled for quite some time to get my crusing wagon water tight.
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Thanks man. I know my rear window leaks a little bit. Just waiting to find either a good gasket that I can pump with sealant after installing, or some good glass. If I find good glass, I'll just break my rear window (it's terribly scratched as it is :() and replace the glass, reusing the original gasket with sealant.
Rear window does leak to badly right now, only in a really bad down pour.
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Well I couldn't track down where it's coming from on the OUTSIDE, but I did see where it is dripping on the INSIDE. The left most dash mounting tab underneath the windshield gasket lip. That's a mouth full! lol
Here are some pictures:
1) Dripping Point
2) Direction of water travel
3) Final dripping point onto the floor
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I pumped some roofing shingle sealant between the gasket and the body on the outside beneath the chrome trim where the leak is, and smoothed it out so any water that does get there will travel down onto the fender drain. Hopefully it will work until I can afford a new gasket from Steel.
While I was under there, I took a look at my wiper motor. I found that the middle mounting screw for it was "loose" after removing the motor, I found this (pictures). :(
The shiney stuff in the background is not water, just A LOT of seam sealer that "dripped" down the firewall. No leaks around the seams!
I fabricated a piece of 3/8" bulletproof lexan with a threaded hole in it, which goes on the "inside" of the broken sheet metal. So now that center mount is basicly "clamped" to the wiper motor bracket. Good thing is, the motor no longer bounces around when the wipers are in use! :D
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Found the spare accelerator cable I had in a box of Pinto parts that I stuck in the back of the wagon. Maybe my dad will install it with me on x-mas. :)
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Need to find somewhere that will re-web a set of 78 seat belts I pulled from the Bobcat last year. My front driver's shoulder belt is fraying badly. :(
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Cracked the windshield today while trying to get the new seal water tight. Blue Pinto is down for a long time. Damn I'm mad. :mad:
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Dave: Maybe the windshield won't cost as much as you think. But would your comprehensive from your insurance cover it??? My insurance will replace my windshield once a year I think, thru my comprehensive, and I don't think there's a deductible. You may want to check.....Larr y :police:
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I will have to check. I have a $500 comprehensive deductible but I don't know how comprehensive might replace the windshield. I will have to call my insurance company and check on Monday.
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crossing my fingers for you...
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I will have to check. I have a $500 comprehensive deductible but I don't know how comprehensive might replace the windshield. I will have to call my insurance company and check on Monday.
Dave,
Are you sure that deductible is for comprehensive and not collision? It sounds awfully high... my comprehensive insurance has a zero deductible. When you talk to the insurance company, I wouldn't tell them how it got broken. I doubt that they'd cover something that you did yourself.
Dwayne :smile:
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Unfortunately it is at $500. :(
I'm wondering if I go down to the insurance office, change my deductible to $0, then file a claim to have it fixed, if I would get in trouble for it or not.
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Unfortunately it is at $500. :(
I'm wondering if I go down to the insurance office, change my deductible to $0, then file a claim to have it fixed, if I would get in trouble for it or not.
That might work if you were willing to wait a couple of months between the time you make the change and when you file the claim. On the other hand, there's no guarantee your agent wouldn't need to see the car in order to make that kind of change. I just don't understand that high deductible on comprehensive insurance... doesn't seem like it would even be worth having if the deductible is that high. I guess insurance laws, like everything else, vary from state to state ::) Good luck!
Dwayne :smile:
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Hey do you still have that center console from the merkur?
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I do, I will try and dig it out some time soon. Focusing on getting the car back on the road though.
Here are some pictures from as far as me and my Jeep buddy got.
1) We cut away the outside layer of the seal that goes against the glass, this kept anything from holding the windshield down. We went all the way around with a long breakaway blade, which is flexible and razor sharp!
2) Another picture of the cut away outer gasket.
3) Once the glass was removed, the gasket was all that was left to pull away from the window frame. You can see the seat that the glass sat in.
4) Here is the glass after removed. Placed it on a board covered with carpet (for padding), then put a towel under the windshield, and two foam blocks (from an old computer case shipping box) to hold up the beveled ends and avoiding any negative pressure on the ends of the glass.
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5) Cleaned all of the old gasket, flaky paint and sealing compound from the frame using a pneumatic grinder with a wire wheel attachment. No rust! YAY!
6) Another photo of the cleaned window frame
After cleaning the frame, we sprayed the bare metal with a rust inhibitor I bought from an auto body shop. Hopefully that will seal out any moisture! Unfortunately no pictures. :(
7) "550" cord, used to pull the gasket inwards and around the inside of the window frame. It's tucked into the body groove of the gasket before installation, then pulled out, starting at the bottom and moving upwards (equally on both sides).
8 ) Butryl rubber cord. Mashed into the glass groove of the windshield to provide a tight flexible seal.
Normally after installation, the rubber cord would be mashed between the gasket and the body on the outside of the windshield, but I didn't get that far before the windshield cracked. :(
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Here's a quick drawing I did in M$ Paint showing what the damage, sort-of, looks like.
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Called every glass shop located in the Valley of southern Idaho and only one shop had the correct glass I needed. Apparently they switch to the 79 style glue in glass in June of 1978. So nearly every shop I contacted for a replacement windshield couldn't get the earlier style glass using the gasket, but had the glue in type readily available.
Even better news....
A new windshield will be installed tomorrow afternoon at 1:00 PM. :)
I went in to Speedy Glass and spoke to the gentleman about glass replacement. He called five sources of his for glass and found one! He originally charges $170.00 for the windshield but couldn't PHYSICALLY find one, so he found one at one of his sources and they only wanted $76.00 for it. So he dropped the overall price to $180.00, including labor, where as before it would have cost me $220.00 to have it installed!
Will be using my gasket from Steel Rubber for the install tomorrow. Hope it goes in without any leaks!
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FANTASTIC NEWS!!! So glad this worked out well for you, Dave!
Dwayne :smile:
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Mike from Speedy Glass here in Boise Idaho drove the van out to my parents house and installed the BRAND NEW glass on the Pinto today. Great work, great quality, great service. I HIGHLY recommend this guy to anyone in Idaho who is replacing glass on their car!
Now onto the install!
Good notes before I start: No sealant was applied directly to the gasket. That meaning, NO sealant was used in the gasket grooves! He did not use butryl rubber cord/sealant either. In fact, he frowned upon the thought of using it. Instead he used a urethane windshield adhesive around the gasket on the outside, and along the bottom of the windshield inside the gasket groove to keep draining water from seeping into the car.
First Mike pulled the stand out of the van, then set it up and pulled the glass out, setting it onto the stand. Next he cleaned the glass with a foaming type glass cleaner, similar to Stoner's Invisible Glass (dispensed from an aerosol spray can), and cleaned it up real well on both sides. Before installing the gasket, he took a razor blade and ran it around the edge of the glass to remove any excess material from between the layers of glass, finishing up by installing the gasket.
I don't have it pictured, but before moving the glass from the stand to the car, he took his 550 cord and stuffed it into the gasket groove that the pinch weld goes into. he overlapped the cord in the middle on the bottom, overlapping about two feet, leaving about 8 inches on each end.
1) New glass on the install preparation stand.
2) Mike holding up the gasket before installing it on the glass
3) Gasket installed on the new glass.
4) The windshield frame clean and all burrs around the pinch welds filed down for a nice smooth edge that won't cut the gasket.
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Mike looked over the windshield frame on the car several times, just to make sure there would be NO sheet metal problems that would cause an issue with the installation.
To aid the install, he sprayed the bottom of the windshield frame, and about six inches up each pillar with the foaming glass cleaner. This was done to lubricate the edges so the gasket would have a lesser chance of tearing against the edge of the frame while pulling the inside of the seal inwards. A VERY important thing to do for those of you who are considering installing your own glass. This could save you a a huge headache later!
Once the frame was lubricated, he laid the glass down into the frame (with the aid of his windshield suction cup tool), being sure that the bottom of the window frame slid into the gasket groove, and that the glass was centered properly on both sides.
5) I was worried about these bumps in the corners of the pinch weld. Mike said the gasket should seal fine around it though, I'll take his word on it!
6) Pinch weld bump on the driver's side.
7) "Lubricated" window frame.
8 ) Glass in place, ready to begin seating the seal!
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Once the windshield was lined up, he removed the suction cup from the outside and stuck it on the inside. He used it to pull the glass down a little bit from the inside to help the gasket seat completely. While pulling down on the suction cup handle, he pulled the 550 cord through, starting from the driver's side and working towards the passenger side corner, stopping every 6 inches or so to push the seal down by hand, forcing it into place and ensuring a proper seat. Once he reached the corner, he pulled the other end of the cord, sealing the bottom of the driver's side.
Once the bottom was sealed, he worked on pulling the seal around the corners. THIS IS THE HARDEST PART! He had some trouble getting the seal to pull inwards at the 90 degree turns, so he used a blunt hook like tool to grab the inside lip of the seal and pull it inwards, helping the seal seat, while at the same time pulling slightly on the cord. He started from the top corner of the passenger side and worked downwards with the hook until the entire pillar side of the gasket was seated inside, then pull the rest of the cord out, seating the passenger's side of the gasket. The same process was repeated on the driver's side.
Once the bottom corners were done, he just pulled the cord out from the driver side to the passenger side until the last of the cord came out at the corner.
After removing the cord, he used his fingers to pull the seal "outwards" and against the window frame, from the inside. This pulled the gasket around on the inside enough to completely seat the windshield. No turning back from here out!
Now moving to the outside of the car, he pushed the gasket "inwards" and against the glass to seat the glass completely.
After seating the glass, he pulled out the caulking gun, loaded with a tube of urethane windshield adhesive, and began squirting the stuff into the "channel" around the windshield, between the body of the car and the gasket, leaving about a 3/8" bead around the gasket. He shot this stuff around the top and the sides, but not along the bottom! He stated that the water SHOULD NOT drain downwards and then BACK UPWARDS between the gasket and the car to leak inside. HOWEVER, if it were to, then just bring it to the shop and have them shoot some more in along the bottom.
9) The glass sitting on the car, waiting to be set into place. The strings hanging from the windshield by tape is the 550 cord, mentioned earlier, that he uses to pull the gasket lip inwards and around the window frame.
10) Mike pulling the cord out around the bottom of the glass.
11) Sealing around the gasket on the outside
12) Urethane windshield adhesive around the gasket
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Once finished with the caulking, he took out a plastic type putty knife and mashed the urethane into the gap between the car and the gasket, sealing out any water that might try to drain between the two and into the car. While sealing it all up, he would wipe the knife down periodically to remove any excess sealant, ensuring a fairly clean install in the end. It is still pretty messy in the groove after, but not as bad as it could be!
I asked him to squirt the sealant stuff in the gasket along the bottom of the glass just to make sure it doesn't leak when water drains downwards off the windshield. He happily did so, and went up along the sides of the glass about two inches as well. Then he pulled out a roller like tool and mashed the gasket down against the glass, pushing out any extra sealant and creating a tight seal.
13) Can't really tell, but the sealant/adhesive is mashed against the gasket, and packed between any gap between the car and the gasket, sealing out any water.
14) Mike packing the adhesive into the gasket/body gap with a plastic type putty knife.
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That was all he had to do! The rest was left to me. I installed the gasket "clamps" that screw into the cowl along the base of the windshield, I installed the trim clips and the trim as well.
Unfortunately I seem to have lost one of the tabs that go inside the base of the windshield trim and screws into the pillar. I will have to scour the junk yard for a good one for the passenger side now. :(
This was Mikes first Pinto to have ever done any work on, and he should be proud of it. No outside shops or mechanics ever touch my car unless it's welding exhaust or an alignment! He stated that not even his boss had done a Pinto yet, and he has worked for the company for 10 years!
I'm very happy with the end result, and I don't think it will leak, but we will see after all the rain that is supposed to come down in the next couple of days.
I find it odd driving the car with a perfect windshield. It is quite satisfying driving a Pinto against the sun and not fighting to see the road behind all of the sandblasted glass! Brings a smile to my face. :)
I spoke to my insurance agent yesterday about my comprehensive coverage. Well in September of last year, I told him about my want to change the windshield gasket, but no one (even glass shops) thought they could get the glass out in one piece, so I wanted to have the windshield replace under an insurance claim without any cost to me. He had told me he would set it up that way for me.
Well he didn't and ended up setting it up with a $500 comprehensive deductible, he even took a note of it! He has corrected it on his end, he just needs it to be certified by his underwriter and then we can process the claim. I sent him the invoice thing for the work done to the car and he will file the claim once the premium changes are completed. I should get a check from them for $180.00 to reimburse me for my out of pocket repair.
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Dave,
Thank you for offering up such a detailed description of your windshield installation. While I've always felt glass work is best left to the professionals, I'm sure there are many do-it-yourselfers here who will benefit tremendously from your posts. I also think it might make a good article for a future issue of Pinto Times.
I sure hope your insurance agent can make that reimbursement happen... that would just be icing on the cake, now wouldn't it?
Dwayne :smile:
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The reason why he didn't want to use any sealent in the gasket is because of the mess it makes! Most likely he didn't want to use the butyl (sp) because of the difficulty involved when trying to rope in the gasket. I say this because that is what my Step Son has told me when he installed my windshield. He does windshields for a living! Makes it nice to have him around when we need a new one! LOL
When he installed our first windshield in the Ghost, he didn't use any sealent at all. Well, it leaked. So Hubby and I tried to get it back out, broke windshield in process! LOL After Step Son (Bobby) got us a new one, he tried Silicone in between window and gasket, and also gasket and body of car! He only did this because I insisted he did it! Well, it still leaked! So, he did just like your guy did, he ran a bead of that black stuff (used for installing the newer windshields in almost all cars of todays time) around the same way your guy did. Guess what?? It still leaks! It leaks in the same spot as it always did. So I really don't know if it is comeing from the windsheild gasket, or maybe it is coming from the roof rack and then leaking down the post. I really can't see how it would leak from around the windshield with that black goop in there!
Now, moving on to the Green Machine, this time I tried this rubbery felt stuff that is made for windshields. It pinches around the metal of the car, then the gasket goes over it. Well, it leaks like crazy! LOL So bad that I have to tarp the car!! I haven't looked into it that far to see where exactly it is coming from. I just know that it filled up the little tray in the center of the tranny hump!!! It was raining when I discovered the water so I just dumped it and covered the car! Figured it may be leaking into the radio so I wanted it covered asap!!
I think my next windshield will be getting that butyl stuff! I would like to have atleast one Pinto that doesn't leak after a new windshield or rubber!!
Crossing my fingers that yours doesn't leak!!!! :D
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Yeah, I'm worried about it leaking still.
Last night we had a little bit of rain, but I don't think it was enough to drain anywhere and puddle. Tonight and all day tomorrow we are supposed to be blasted with a storm, so we shall see in the morning!
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Today it rained like hell. The car sat out in the rain while I was at work for 9 hours today. Not one drop of water! SO HAPPY! :D
Now to wash the car with a hose and see how it holds up! I'm pretty sure it will stand up to it though! :devil:
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Today it rained like hell. The car sat out in the rain while I was at work for 9 hours today. Not one drop of water! SO HAPPY! :D
Now to wash the car with a hose and see how it holds up! I'm pretty sure it will stand up to it though! :devil:
Sounds great! A true windshield success story!!!
Dwayne :smile:
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Thanks for all of your support through the process guys, I really appreciate it!
Insurance agent called me yesterday saying they fixed the comprehensive coverage issue and they mailed me a check for $180.00 which should arrive Monday! :D
Found a GREAT bug and tar remover as well! The old gasket sealant was "sprayed" all over the car when I wire-wheeled the pinch weld clean. The stuff stuck to the car pretty well and wiping it off just spread it, even after washing the car. Went to O'Reilly's and they carry a product by Stoner (I use their "Invisible Glass" to clean my windows) called "Tarminator". Works just as well as their glass cleaner and really isn't to messy!
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Thanks for all of your support through the process guys, I really appreciate it!
Insurance agent called me yesterday saying they fixed the comprehensive coverage issue and they mailed me a check for $180.00 which should arrive Monday! :D
Found a GREAT bug and tar remover as well! The old gasket sealant was "sprayed" all over the car when I wire-wheeled the pinch weld clean. The stuff stuck to the car pretty well and wiping it off just spread it, even after washing the car. Went to O'Reilly's and they carry a product by Stoner (I use their "Invisible Glass" to clean my windows) called "Tarminator". Works just as well as their glass cleaner and really isn't to messy!
Glad the insurance stuff all worked out! I've had excellent experience with Stoner products... have used their Invisible Glass for years!
Dwayne :smile:
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Replaced the output shaft seal on the transmission today. Took about a total of 45 minutes to drop the drive-shaft, pull the old seal out, install the new seal, reassemble and check the gear oil in both the differential and the transmission! I got my seal from Schucks/O'Reilly's, part number 13527, it's an SKF brand seal.
Fueled up the car today at Maverick, put the gas cap on the rear bumper like I always do, but forgot to put it back on before I left. I later found out that I forgot about it about two hours later, after driving the freeway and around town, picking up the seal for the car, and arriving at my parent's house. :(
No better time for an excuse to FINALLY order a NEW Stant locking cap for the car! ;) :D
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Got the new gas cap today at my parents, fits perfectly and got me a set of keys that say "FUEL" again! :)
I changed out the water pump today as well, since it seemed to be on it's last leg. Also changed out the thermostat while I had the coolant out and painted the thermostat housing. Engine is cooling just like it did after the rebuild, again! :D I will post pictures tonight!
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Dave, you put the water pump gasket in, right? When I bought mine last year the gasket was separate. Anyway, good job! ;D
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Yeah, I put one on. The MasterPro new water pump came with one. I also used some high temp RTV copper gasket sealer on both sides of it just to make sure it wouldn't leak. Me and my dad had a hell of a time trying to seal up the thermostat after the first drive after the engine rebuild, turns out we didn't have the thermostat seated in the housing all the way because there was some old buildup in the thermostat seat/groove!
The New pump is a MasterPro unit, not a reman, brand spakin new! Came with a lifetime warrenty to! :D
The Old pump was a Carter, from what I can tell. It looks like it was a reman pump, as it has Ford casting numbers on it, D42E-AB. It was purchased in 1988 by my dad at a Kragen's Auto Parts store, which became a Schucks in the 90s, and is now an Oreilly's/Schucks. It only had a 2 year warrenty, but has lasted this long, 22 years later!
Now on to some pictures!
1) Difference in impellers between a "Carter" and a "MasterPro"
2) Difference in shaft mount assembly
3) Carter Pump Casting Number
4) MasterPro Pump Casting Number
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Since I had the whole the cooling system empty and most of the front of the motor taken apart, I decided to change the thermostat while I was there. Bought a new 192 degree thermostat, the old one was a 185 I believe, I can't remember for sure.
5) Old thermostat vs. New thermostat (I'm sure you can tell which is which! ;))
6) Old thermostat vs. New thermostat (again)
7) Thermostat housing after removed from motor
8 ) Base of thermostat housing after removed from motor
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I figured that while I had the thermostat housing off this time, that I would paint it since I didn't do that the last four times it was off. lol
9) Front of motor cleaned off and ready for the new thermostat and pump to be installed!
10) Thermostat housing wire wheeled clean with the aid of the pheumatic grinder!
11) Base of thermostat housing clean
12) thermostat housing painted and readying for installation!
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Once I refilled the system and let it run until it hit 190 degrees according to my temperature gauge in the car, the thermostat popped open and engine temp went down to 160 degrees, and while holding the motor at a constant 2500 RPM, it only ever got up to about 175-ish, that's with the radiator cap off.
Once I put the cap on and drove the car home, it stayed at about 180, occasionally getting up to 190 but then dropping back down. I think it's all good to go now. No leaks in the system and temperature has yet to go any higher than 190! :D
On a side note, I don't really think the PUMP was the problem, I think it was more a combination of the thermostat going out and there being air in the system. It had been awhile since I properly bled all the air out of the system and I had topped off the antifreeze a couple times in the past year. The pump doesn't spin rough or have any sticky spots when I spin it by hand, slow or fast!
The clicking sound was there when I started the car and let it idle in front of my parents before I left, but went away quickly. I'm still thinking that it is my smog pump making that sound.
I now have a new pump, thermostat and radiator cap on the car, and a spare water pump for later in case I have to special order a replacement under warranty!
13) New water pump and thermostat housing installed
14) Motor reassembled and ready to go!
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Lookin really good Dave.
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Found a little problem today while changing out the spark plugs.... :(
The it appears that the water pump and the thermostat might be leaking between the gaskets. I think I might have added coolant to early after reassembly. I will be double checking the bolts on them on Sunday while I am at my parents swapping out the rear axle.
I also noticed a drip from under exhaust port #1. :'( :'( I don't know if it is just flowing from the upper thermostat bolt or if it's leaking from the head gasket, I hope it's just the bolt!
Sunday I will redo the gaskets on the pump and thermostat, let it sit until Wednesday, then add coolant and try again.
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What kind of sealant are you using? I use the red spray can gasket sealer, put it together and go. When you work on flat rate you don't have time to wait! :lol: I never use silicone on a gasket.
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I used the Permatex RTV Copper gasket maker. in the tube.
How long does the spray can stuff take to cure?
I have had issues with this thermostat housing sealing correctly since the motor rebuild. My dad bought a NOS one from a dealership in texas a few years ago that I still have in storage. I think it might be time to starting using it now.
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Well, here are some photos of the axle swap, er differences, that I took today while installing the 73 Wagon axle on my 78 Sedan!
1) 73 Axle on LEFT, 78 axle on RIGHT
2) Differential casting differences
3) Breather port on the 73 differential
4) No ports on the 78 differential
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One of the bigger problems with this axle swap is pictured below. The large bolt to hold down the hydraulic brake hose on a 73 axle is larger in diameter than the 78's breather port/hose junction bolt. Because I cannot obtain a rear hydraulic brake hose for a 73 Pinto locally, I was forced to thread a bolt into the axle tube hole to seal it over, and use plastic zip ties to hold the existing hose/junction block to the new axle until a new one arrives from RockAuto.
Another problem I ran into with using a 73 axle on the 78 was the plates that are welded to the axle tubes, letting the axle sit flat on the leaf springs. On 73's, they have round holes in them for the leaf spring/axle bushing to come through slightly. On a 78, the same hole is rectangular. Because these are not ea silly interchangeabl e, I kept everything as it was, and just set the round hole plates on top of the rectangular bushings, letting the axle sit about 1/8" higher than it probably should.
The next problem was the backing plates. The 78 backing plates and axle tube flanges have a difference bolt offset than the 73 does. The 73 has a smaller distance between bolts than the 78 does, so I was forced to use the 73 backing plates. I continued to use my 78 brake drums though. They do have slightly smaller stud holes, but they DO work fine without any issues!
The last problem is that the 73 axle points upwards about 1/2" more than the 78 axle did. I was greatly concerned about this when bolting the axle down, due to the change in pinion angle. Fortunately it did not make a big difference and no real problems, but it is something to be aware of!
While driving the car I notice a slight thud, most likely from a combination of the higher pinion angle and the extra 1/8" of axle height from the swap. The differential is probably being torqued upwards causing it to bounce against the rubber bumper at the end of the drive line tunnel at the back of the car.
The good news! I ended up using a 21 tooth (Red gear, P/N CODD-17271-B) speedometer gear in the transmission, it leaves me 1-2 mph slower on the speedometer than the actual speed, but I can live with that! The car has SO MUCH MORE get up and go now! First time going forwards from a complete stop and I easily squealed the tires!
5) Hydraulic brake hose bolt on 73 axle
6) Hydraulic brake hose bolt AND breather port screw on 78 axle
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Two views of a Pinto that you just don't see everyday! :P
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I posted in your other thread before I read this one, you need to get the perches with a round hole to match the rear end perch. Fred prob has a couple!
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The original axle is going to be rebuilt then reinstalled. Two reasons behind this. 1) I'm just way to used to driving around with the gear ratio (2.73) of the original axle, and 2) the replacement axle ratio (3.40) just doesn't work to well for driving around town in fourth gear. :(
The windshield gasket leaked today while I washed the car! :(
Lucky for me it's an easy fix. The water is coming in right above where they stopped sealing between the glass and gasket up the pillars. They only sealed 1-2 inches up along the pillars between the gasket and glass, so I have an appointment on Monday at 10AM to bring the car by and they will seal all around the glass for it! Gotta love a good glass shop with a lifetime warranty on their work!
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Finally picked out a name for my 78 Sedan...
Mr. Tadakichi
Those of you who watch anime, Auzumanga Daioh will recognize the name. Mr. Tadakichi is the name of the main character's dog, a Great Pyrenees. In the anime TV series, the dog is a cherished family member of Chiyo-chan's family. Chiyo-chan is so small she can ride on the back of Mr. Tadakichi, and Mr. Tadakichi loves his owner(s) as much as they love him, not minding the attention he gets from outsiders. He is obedient and loved by all.
Seems to fit my 78 Sedan well! :)
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Got the video I made of my 78 Sedan finished and uploaded to Facebook! The video is split into two parts, for upload purposes. Those of you who would like a copy of the video in it's full resolution and quality, let me know so I can send you a copy of the DVD video. Check it out!
(Copy the links below to your address bar to view)
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1062308253&v=app_2392950137&ref=profile# (http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1062308253&v=app_2392950137&ref=profile#)!/video/video.php?v=1386536377752
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1062308253&v=app_2392950137&ref=profile# (http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1062308253&v=app_2392950137&ref=profile#)!/video/video.php?v=1387497161771
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I haven't driven the car in about four days now, had some rain here and there, never bothered to check the car since it seemed to have been sealed up after my last visit to the glass shop.
Nope, still leaking somewhere. I opened the door to get in and take some pictures for Robert's Mustang II console install and found a little puddle on the driver's side floor mat, passenger's side is nice and dry though.
I'll have to hit the windshield with the hose to really watch where it's coming from, but I suspect the bottom of the windshield between the body and the gasket, it's the only place they didn't put sealant in. Between the glass and gasket all around and gasket and body all around the sides and top are sealed though.
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Here are some pictures of where my Mustang II console is installed under the stock cubby.
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It isn't perfect, but it looks great and I like it. The space between the cubby and were the console was cut is REQUIRED. If the console isn't cut back that far, it's impossible to squeeze the cubby into it's place, which already requires some effort.
I have cut two small "blocks" out of the extra material removed from the console to fill in those spots. I originally hot glued them in place but the glue separated and they have fallen off. Need to get that all fixed before the big show here in July.
I hope this helps, Robert!
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Awsome! Thanks Dave I apperciate you taking the time to grab those pics for me. They really helped me visualize what was needed to be done. Thanks again.
Tink
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hey back on page 10 or so you said you added a front valance, how much did that set you back? and where did you order it from?
thanks
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I bought it from carlharris here on the pinto forums, but I met him locally. He had it advertised on Craigslist last year, didn't know he was part of the car club until I met him and his car at a park here in Idaho. I still talk to him now and then, busy guy though.
I got it from him for $15 and a tube header for a 2.3 for $5. He was just clearing out stuff he didn't need/want anymore.
Craigslist digging helps a lot here in Idaho, no more Pintos in the junk yards with anything worth paying for anymore.
Going to a Craigslist ad early tomorrow morning to pick up the rear tail gate from a 78 wagon that I bought a couple weeks ago, and a pair of aluminum bumpers for the 78 for $20 for the pair! Keep searching, you'll get what you're after sooner or later. Patience has helped a lot with this car, more than I can say.
I had another offer on the car today, $1500, a customer at work made it. Of coarse I said no! lol Last month I had three other offers to buy the car, $5000, $2000, and $3500, in that order. This little guy hasn't got a price tag on it, why does everyone keep asking me if it's for sale!?!?!!
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dave I get that on both wagons now. the one I bought from fred, or my wagon that Ive had for years. youll get used to it lol
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How hard would it be to add pinto emblems to the fenders, seeing as I cannot find a reasonably priced source for PONY decals?
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Hi, arrrhg you guys make it sound soooo easy to find parts for your cars down south.... up here where I live you don't see any of these old pintos on the road let alone parts for them "pop up on CL" lol I do/will keep searching thou. I did get an emblem mailed out from Seattle CL last week. This one is one that I placed onto the valve cover, if you are wanting to place emblems on your fenders, all I can suggest is you carefully measure out where you want to palce them, drill the holes and be precise and then (from what I learnt taking the FORD ones off the hood) is you will need to get barrle clips/clamps and place the works into the holes.
hope this helps, as I said I haven't placed them into fenders (yet) but it is mainly in the measurements.
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Thanks 78_starsky, I'll see if I can track down some barrel clips at a body shop here!
Finding parts for the cars hasn't been easy here either, a lot of my stuff is either stock piled, or I get a hold of people around here. Since I drive one of the three well known pinto's here in the valley of Idaho (the only three that people ever see), I do my best to build LASTING relationships with other pinto owners and hot rodders here. Lots of people here are doing hot rods and buy Pintos for the front ends, then want to junk the rest or they sell them on craigslist for zilch! I buy up as much as I can afford without killing myself and then store it until I use up what I want to then sell the rest.
I've been stock piling parts for the past three years. Parted out/off a 77 Bobcat Wagon at the junk yard, and salvaged parts from a 78 Pinto Wagon in a near by town, the rest of my parts mostly come off other 70's era Ford cars, or I drive distances to find the parts I need, but only go that far if I absolutely cannot find what I need locally, and if I'm feeling up to a road trip! :)
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Need to get work done on Mr. Tadakichi....F ix the radio bezel, touch up some paint here and there to make it decent, add the front mud flaps, I may change the bumpers out for the spare I have and polish the trim, but we'll see. Just over a month to go till the big show here, need to hurry!
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Put the barrel clips on the emblem first then push them in the holes
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Not positive about the emblems on the fenders quite yet, but at least I know how to go about adding them!
I got the radio bezel finished finally. Two years after installing the new radio and I FINALLY finalized it! :D
Here's some pictures and a little bit of what I did....
These first four pictures are of the wood "sleeve/mount" I put together. It holds the cage for the Pioneer deck, which the deck slides in and locks to. I added wood to the base of it so it can rest on the bottom inside of the dash, keeping it level and tight when secured. The holes cut in the top of it are for the metal tabs that push outwards on the cage, the tabs hold the cage to the sleeve/mount and keep everything secure and together.
1) Side view of sleeve/mount
2) Front view of sleeve/mount
3) Back view of sleeve/mount
4) Top view of sleeve/mount
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Next set of pictures....Th e first photos shows the bottom of the sleeve/mount. The two black dots on the upper corners are just sheet rock screws that help to hold the unit together. The center hole is the important one. A good size sheet metal screw with a hex head is screwed in from under the dash and into the sleeve/mount, this is all that is used to hold the entire assembly to the dash. Once the deck is installed straight and where it should be, the mounting screw is tightened to secure it.
Second picture shows the radio with the cage on it. In this photo you can see the triangular tabs that push through the holes cut into the top of the sleeve/mount (as shown above). I use at least six of the tabs to be sure it stays put.
Third picture shows the "filler bezel". This goes behind two tabs on the left and right sides of the front of the cage. The hole cut in the actual PINTO radio bezel was to large, showing more not just the face of the deck, but also some of the mount behind the Pinto bezel. This filler bezel covers up that gap and gives the final install a nice clean appearance. I used 1/8" thick lexan and spent about two hours getting it to fit perfectly as I wanted. Since the Pinto radio bezel I am using is plastic and slightly warped, it took a lot of trimming to make it match up right.
The fourth photo shows the Pinto radio bezel with the hole enlarged for the deck.
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More pictures! :D
First photo here shows where the filler bezel is installed behind the tabs on the left side of the deck cage. once the cage tabs are bent into the holes in the top of the sleeve/mount assembly, it pulls the tabs on the front of the cage tight against the filler bezel, holding it in place without any adhesives, allowing me to make any modifications or install any other radio I like in future events!
Photo two is showing what the filler bezel would look like once the tabs were pushed in on the cage and into the sleeve/mount, nice and mesh against the Pinto radio bezel. :)
Photos three and four are of the deck installed (faceplate removed) with everything tightened down and aligned for proper appearance and functionality.
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And the conclusion to the radio install....
These first two photos show what the deck looks like with the faceplate attached and in it's full functionality. I likey! :D
The last two show the gap between the front of the deck and the Pinto bezel before all of this.
I used SEM - landau black plastic/vinyl paint on the bezel and filler bezel to match the rest of the interior.
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Looks nice dave
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Nice work!
Dwayne :smile:
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Thanks guys! Hopefully I can get the front mud flaps on by the end of next week, as well as repaint the tops of the side mirrors (faded black). I put the rear mud flaps on the about a year and a half ago and didn't have time to cut out or put the front ones on, finally getting around to that as well. lol
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looking good. what you use to hold the back end of the deck in place to secure/pick up some of the wieght? I will be needing to form some sort of holding bracket I am thinking. did you have to make something? or did you use an original one?
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Thanks 78_starsky!
I didn't use anything at the back of the deck. 50% of the deck is held in place by the wood sleeve. The sleeve is bolted to the dash from underneath and holds it nice and tight. No need for any rear support.
Now a question for everyone, can a 2.0 bell housing be used on a 2.3? Since I'm selling Brownie and the possible buyer will be swapping out the stock 2.0 for a rebuilt one with a 4 spd, I'm considering keeping the C4 and putting it in this 78 with the 3.40 rear since it's in much better shape.
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No news from the potential buyer of Brownie yet, I suppose that's a good thing though! :)
Did a tune up on the car today, new plugs, checked each wire to ensure it was conducting, and cleaned the contacts on the distributor cap and rotor, they were not to the point of replacement, just light wear. Everything is running nice and smooth again. Connected the engine analyzer to the motor and my tach is 50-100 RPM off from actual motor speed. Couldn't figure out why the temp is reaching 190 and not dropping back to 160, I think it's time for a flush and new coolant.
Checked the clutch and adjusted it a bit, working fine.
The rear axle has so much backlash it's making a clanking sound every time the clutch is engaged, so it looks like it's time to get a pair of early 6.75" axle spring mounting plates so I can properly install the 3.40 rear back into the car. Going to get the holes on the drums enlarged a bit more to be sure proper seating against the backing plate and alignment with the brake shoes.
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Tune up did WONDERS. Didn't even have to use new plugs! I bought set, gaped them, but I found a set I used for two months in the trunk of the car. I cleaned them up and re-gaped, cleaned off the grime and grease off the spark plug wires, cleaned the contacts on the rotor and distributor cap and then bled the air out of the cooling system. Mr. Tadakichi runs nice and smooth now without overheating! :D
Looks like it's time to pull out the extra eight sets of three month used plugs I have in storage and do a clean up and re-gap to have them ready for swap next time I do a tune up again! I wonder if the distributor caps and rotors I have in storage are salvageable to. :o
Bought the plates needed for the axle swap from Fred, should be here on Thursday! :D
I've got the 12th, 13th and 14th off so the 12th I plan to clean and paint the 3.40 geared rear end and backing plates, drill out the holes on the drums and swap out the axles. Hopefully I will have time between the painting (while waiting for it to dry) to install the front mud flaps and paint the tops of the side mirrors to get it nice and pretty for the car show on the 18th!
Bought new seat covers for the car, the 2.5 year old black faux leather seat covers were starting to show their age. Driver's side was torn up on the butt part of the seat while the passenger side one was in great shape aside from the sun faded black cloth on the sides which turned bronze!
Here's a pic of the new seat covers! Cloth all the way, shouldn't be burning my legs up in the summer this time around! They fit much more snug than the old ones did to! :D
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Now a question for everyone, can a 2.0 bell housing be used on a 2.3?
no,they are different.
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no,they are different.
Umm if the bells a 2.0 c4 it can be used on a 2.3 with the use of step dowels to make it line up correctly theres quite a few people using them in their 2.3turbos due to the fact they are easier to find then the 2.3 c4 bells.
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Thanks man, I appreciate the input!
Now, how about putting a manual trans from a 2.3 fox body mustang? Would the shifter be in the same location? Isn't the early 80's model mustang trans the same as the Mustang II? The only thing I have seen of these transmissions is the shifter and where it bolts down with three bolts.
I'm trying to find a better geared transmission for use with this 3.40 rear axle I'm putting in the car so that it's drivable on the freeway without the engine revving so high. With the stock 2.73 axle and the stock 4spd it goes 75 mph on the freeway a little over 3500 RPM, and 65 mph at 3000 RPM, I want something around that range.
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link for offset dowels for 2.0 bell on 2.3 http://www.turboford.net/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=014154 (http://www.turboford.net/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=014154)
As for a 2.3 fox (85 or 86-93) trans they are T5s they are really good transmissions you would have to make the shifter hole 2 inchs closer to the dash for the shifter and weld a plate to the crossmember to bolt it up but depending on what rearend your using you might have to get a driveshaft cut but with a set of 3.40 gears highway speeds would be great.Plus the clutch cable needs a relocation bracket or the crossmember notched so it doesnt bind up on it.
My t5 in my TC has a 3.55 rear gear and at freeway speeds of 70-75 it holds about 2800-3k rpm
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How about a good shifter that looks stock in a Pinto, but is still with-in arms length like the Pinto's is?
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im gunna say the stock T5 shifter they arent straight like a pinto shifter they curve backwards just like the one in this pic but they arent billet short throws. LOL
http://www.gpfracing.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1520 (http://www.gpfracing.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1520)
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ill try to get a picture of how the stock shifter in my TC looks toomorow if i remember when i get back from KC
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I essentially have a Mustang II shifter on my stock 4spd right now. It has more arch to it than the stock Pinto one does, I like how close and easy it is to shift with.
I found the thread I was looking for on T5 swaps:
http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php/topic,4106.0.html (http://www.fordpinto.com/index.php/topic,4106.0.html)
Not to worried about the transmission being super durable like for racing, I just need something with a 5th/OD gear in it. The stock 4spd would be fine for the rest of the car's life (which will be a LONG one!) but it just isn't economical to use with the 3.40 stock 6 3/4" rear axle.
I can easily get a T5 or a T9, so obtaining the transmission and bellcrank bell isn't a problem at all, it's trying to figure out how to make it all fit with minimal modification to the car. I'm trying to keep it as stock as I can with a few minor upgrades for comfort or due to lack of parts availability.
I'm still using a 6 3/4" rear axle because I already have the 3.40 geared one that only has 26k miles on it, no leaks, and no odd noises to it. It was $15 and I can't locate an 8" anywhere here in southern Idaho. I can get a T5 or T9 for $150 with the bell, where as it will cost me $300 to have the original 2.73 axle rebuilt, and that's IF they can find the parts to do it.
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i know where theres a StangII 8" right now i could prolly snag for 75-100 but i dont really want it i much prefer the 8.8 and if i need more then that ill get a 9".
As for the T5/T9 stuff i just prefer the T5 over the T9 because if for some odd reason it does happen to break theres tons of T5s around compared to the t9 atleast around here.
Im gunna try hooking up my 6 3/4 rear thats in my bobcat up to the T5 behind my 2.3t till i can get the 8.8 all setup for leafs (or until the 6 3/4 grenades from lauching). But i dont exactly know how far down the road that will be still buying parts and paint to finish the motor swap off.
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Went to the junk yard today! Got me a good straight pair of 77 Mustang II drums for the rear brakes! I'm going to drill out the lug holes to 5/16" to fit the 73 axle lug bases, everything should go together nicely on Tuesday! :D
Moved all of the stuff I'm going to using out of the house and over to my parent's garage today. Six cans of paint, one can of clear, one can of carb cleaner, all of the sealants, loctite and muffler patch putty.
So, plans for next Tuesday are as follows....
1) Clean and paint 73' axle to be installed
2) Remove stock axle and install 73' axle
3) Repaint and clear coat side mirrors
4) Install front mudflaps
5) Touch-up paint on center console
6) Touch-up silver accents on dash
7) Repaint visor retaining rods
8 ) Repaint lines on shift knob
9) Patch hole on exhaust behind rear passenger wheel
10) Clean undercarriage and apply spray can undercoating
11) Clean and install spare (better) bumpers
12) Wash, wax and detail the car
A LOT to do, but once it's done the car should make a nice eye catcher at it's first BIG car show! I'll be starting around 9AM, hopefully I can paint the side mirrors and install the front mud flaps after cleaning painting the axle and backing plates. While the paint dries I can try to get the other work done!
I'm pretty quick about getting stuff done, we'll see how good I am once the day begins! :D
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Dave,
Sounds like you have a pretty full agenda there! Hope you manage to get it all done. Good luck!
Dwayne :smile:
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Thanks Dwayne! Normally this is a list of the kinds of things I would try to do through-out a three to four month period. I'm anxious to start, but I know I'm going to hate having to do it all half way through the list. lol
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Hey... I seem to have problems getting ANYTHING done! :lol: Temps here have been near 100, with heat indeces of 105-110 degrees! Too hot to get out and do anything.
Dwayne :smile:
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It's been hitting the low to mid 90's around here, and on Monday when I plan to work on the car it is supposed to be 95! Great for drying the paint on stuff I'll be painting, bad for my hygiene! lol
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It's been hitting the low to mid 90's around here, and on Monday when I plan to work on the car it is supposed to be 95! Great for drying the paint on stuff I'll be painting, bad for my hygiene! lol
Could be worse! We've been in the triple digits here! Main thing is STAY HYDRATED!!!
Dwayne :smile:
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Well on Monday I got a big part of my list done. A few items didn't get done because I forgot to get things, or issues happened with the rear axle swap, which I will explain. First the things I didn't get done....
Touch up silver accents on the dash (Forgot to bring my silver sharpie pens!)
Repaint Lines on Shift Knob (Forgot to bring the white model paint!)
Patch hole on exhaust behind rear passenger wheel (Ran out of time)
Wash, wax and detail car (Ran out of time)
I was able to touch up the silver accents on the dash and repaint the lines on the shift knob from home, so those wern't biggies. Saturday morning I went to my parents before working to wash wax and detail the car for the car show (which I ended up MISSING :(), but I still haven't patched the hole on the exhaust, hopefully I can do that on Tuesday!
The replacement bumpers I have are not in as great of shape as I thought they were, as I found out after pressure washing them and polishing them with some Turtle Wax chrome polish. The rear bumper has the faint ghosting from a bumper sticker, and I can't stand to drive around in a car that has that, and the front bumper has a crack in it where the previous owner of the car I pulled them off of seems to have run into something at a fairly decent speed, I didn't want to put damaged bumpers on the car.
So, does anyone know how to completely remove bumper sticker ghosting from these bumpers?
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I started Monday off by cleaning up the rear axle and then painting it, black tubes an housing with a silver housing cover. While that dried I cleaned up and painted the axle plates I got from Fred Morgan for the 73 axle (the plates have a round bushing hole rather than the later model oval hole), then I did the drums that I pulled from the 77 Mustang, and last I did the backing plates for the 73 axle. This axle only has 26,000 miles on it so it should last awhile! :)
Next up I covered up most of the car with cut open lawn bags and repainted the side mirrors with some low gloss black paint and then some satin clear coat. They came out VERY nicely!
While the paint dried on the mirrors, I moved to the windshield wiper arms (not on the list, but why not?). I covered the windshield with some more lawn bags and got them done.
While the paint dried on the exterior, I did a quick touch up of the center console where paint had started to rub down to the red.
Once all that paint dried, I popped the trunk and FINALLY finished painting it black! It was the last original yellow area of the car that was visible from a distance! Once again, not on the list, but I really wanted to get it done!
No picture of the trunk lid repainted, I was between upgrading phones and the pictures from the "in between" phone didn't transfer, so I will upload a picture of the repainted trunk lid tomorrow night. I could have swore I had pictures of the axle on here, but I can't find them now!
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While was waiting for my Jeep buddy Chris to come over and lend me a hand with dropping the old axle and putting the new one into place, I cleaned off the undercarriage and sprayed it down with a couple cans worth of rubberized undercoating to keep it from rusting. The undercarriage on my car is extremely clean for how many salt road winters it has survived and how much abuse it has been through (bottoming out on drive ways and speed bumps), so I wanted to preserve that part of the car to avoid having to weld in new floor in the future!
Before taking a break, I installed the front mudflaps, which was the easiest part, and called it good for a little while.
Once I was finished with that, I had some lunch (it was about 2:30 PM) and then went to the Sprint store to have my new phone (Samsung Seek) activated and have my sister's phone (on my account) looked at about dropping calls. As a side note, I no longer have the Samsung Seek, it was a downgrade from my M520 and I traded it in, paid the $35 restocking fee and the $211.99 price (with $100 mail in rebate) for the Samsung Intercept, which I am very happy with and can now browse the FordPinto.com web page in full HTML mode from the phone when I am away from home! :D
Around 4:00 PM Chris came over and we began the axle swap. I already had the road wheels off by the time he arrived, so we started to remove the drums. It proved to be quire troublesome for some reason and we had some issues getting the driver side off, but after adjusting the brake adjuster enough it slid off with little friction.
The passenger side was another story! We tried to adjust the passenger side as much as we could but couldn't seem to get the drum off, so we used a hammer to smack it from the back and pried it off with a screw driver. The shoes were still expanded! In our attempt to pry the drum off, we ended up mangling the brake shoe linings! :( Turns out it was all because the teeth of the star wheel on the adjusters were all rounded off and we couldn't grab any teeth when adjusting it, makes sense eh?
So about 5:50 we make our way out to O'Reilly's to buy a set of new brake shoes. $17.99, not bad! Also bought new adjusters for both sides, just to play it safe. $2.59/ea, even better!
We get back to the garage, pull the axle, swap the axle plates for the 73 one's Fred sent me and get ready to install the new axle. Hmm, something was missing, the brake lines! Now the 73 axle uses a different rubber hose that connects to the steel lines than the 78 does (larger bolt hole), so I put the new rubber line on and tried to fit the 78 steel axle lines on. No go, well, turns out I left the axle in my parents garage, but for some reason put the brake lines in my storage unit! So, off we went to storage to pick up the brake lines, unfortunately we could only find the longer passenger side, the driver side I put in some box of parts in the BACK of my storage unit. So instead of pulling everything out to get it, we just pulled the driver side axle brake line from Brownie (my disabled 73 wagon).
Once that was all one we installed the new axle, put a longer breather hose on it (since the breather nipple is on the differential case instead of the bolt for the rubber brake line), installed the new speedometer, bolted the drive shaft on, and rebuilt the brakes with the new shoes.
Now, I am using 78 drums on a 73 axle. Not sure if it's the width of the drums, the size of the shoes, or the rubber brake hose for a 73 being used on a 78, perhaps the steel lines are of a different diameter, but while we bled the rear brake system we couldn't get a consistent firm brake pedal until we adjusted the brake shoes quite a bit. Not a whole lot, but more than they were on the 78 axle. Everything seems to work fine though, the e-brake and stopping power are still superb, for dumb brakes that is.
Everything is done on the car that I wanted to do this year, minus the hole in the exhaust pipe at the rear hanger and replacing that section of pipe, but that should be done this week!
Here are some pictures of the mud flaps on the car and the repainted lines on the shift knob.
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I requested Sunday off so I could attend the big Idaho car show in Emmett, where my car was purchased! Turns out the website had the wrong date and it was actually on SATURDAY, the day I had to work ALL DAY and EVERYTHING went wrong at work! :'(
I feel like all of this work has gone to waste, but I'm also happy it's done and the car is looking great again, it deserves that much each year, to look great.
I had been planning on that show for a whole year and I MISSED IT! :( I had everything ready for the show to, everything I wanted to display and show off was ready in the car, and now I have to put it all away. :(
Took the family down to Eagle Island Water Park today and we spent the day swimming. Even Tia got her little swimming suite on and got some water! :D
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Found some pictures from Monday. I guess they uploaded to my Facebook account. So, here's some pictures of the axle before it was installed and a picture of the newly painted trunk lid! :)
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Looks good dave keep it up
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Excellent work Dave, keep it up!! TOO stinking hot here to do ANYTHING right now.
When it's 90 degrees at 10 PM.....I think that says it all....
Chris
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Lookin good Dave,
If you want you can work on my car ;D You are so much better at it than I am lol.
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the kudos!
I'm sure your car is making progress r4. I just try to keep in mind that it takes time, more often more time than I expect, and it takes patience, A LOT of patience. I just think about what I have to do weeks before I do it so that I can get it all done the way I want it and with pleasing results. Nothing has to be absolutly perfect since it is my daily driver, but it does have to be presentable and not half assed. I do enjoy driving a car that is well maintained and visually appears that way to.
Keep at it and take your time, your ride is looking good still!
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Thanks Dave,
I know normally people say the pics don't do the car justice but in my case the pics make the car look better than she is. I can safely say that she has been falling apart, evident by the fact the headliner stitching ripped out over the past year, along with the flaking rear panels & everything else. I just need to get my butt in gear & fix it.
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Mine's the same way, looks better in pictures than it does in person! Then again, it might just be us nit picking at little things that we have to deal with EVERY DAY that others never get the chance to see/experience!
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Matt,
At least your car HAS a headliner! When I bought mine all that was left was a little bit back by the hatch.
But at least I didn't have to worry about ripping it to take it out. :-)
I am seriously thinking about using the stuff they sell at JoAnne's ( a craft store my wife likes as much as I like Summit Racing). It is a headliner material, for newer cars. More of a foamy felt sort of thing. Gets glued on. But that is a long way away at this point.
Russ
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Parked the car in a bad spot at work a few days ago and the sprinklers got it.
Not sure if it's just hard water or a chemical in the city water system, but there are white circular spots all over the car. Where it hit the windshield I can't seem to get it clean just by using glass cleaner or washer fluid.
I now need to polish the windshield so I see through it clearly again! :(
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what do you use to polish the windshield? Just regular rubbing compound? The windshield on my car definitely needs that done.
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what do you use to polish the windshield? Just regular rubbing compound? The windshield on my car definitely needs that done.
Eastwood company used to sell a glass polising kit that worked fantastic. It was like 20 bucks or so. It would remove scratches & water & acid rain spots.
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I scheduled an appointment with. The glass shop, that installed my new windshield, is going to try a compound they use frequently on the windshield. If that doesn't work they have a couple other meathods they can try. I will keep you all updated.
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Hmm, thought I updated this from my phone. Guess it didn't finish uploading the reply.
The glass shop used a fresh razor blade and the film of hard water peeled right off! Nice and clean windshield again! :D
Since it seems I've got a nack for tig welding, I'm thinking of fixing the clutch pedal on the car. I'm using a Mustang II cable with adjuster tube on the car , but the way the cable connects to the pedal is off. The Mustang II cable doesn't have a ball at the end of it like the Pinto cable does, instead it has an eyelet. So instead of using the clip on the cable and using the stud through the pedal to hold the cable to it, I am using a bolt through the hole of the pedal, as well as the cable eyelet, then two nuts tightened against each other. Even then, the cable is off to the driver's side about 3/8" and twists the pedal. I now have a wobbly pedal because of it.
I recall someone telling me that cutting the pedal towards the top and welding it to one side of the bottom half of the pedal would probably correct this. I'm thinking it will work, and very tempted to cut the pedal and weld as said. I really am getting tired of the wobbly pedal that is really squeaky in cold weather because of it's angle and twist pressure against the pivot bushings.
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Dave: The windshield on the 1971 Pinto I bought off of Reed in Washington State needs some help too. I thought Turtle Wax rubbing compound would do the trick. Think I'll try the razor blade thing first. Hope it works. Glad to see you got your little windshield problem taken care of so easily. Have a great day!!!!! Larry :police:
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Larry,
the razor blade trick works really good, as does the turtle wax rubbing compound. I used the razor blade since I had lots of overspray on the windshield, then I finished it off with the rubbing compound. What a difference that made!
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I don't know if anyone answered the question about the gas hood struts or not but the cylinder part goes on top so the seals stay oiled. One reason they fail is because they are upside down.
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Thank you RSM! I still have them on upside down but my hood is closed 99.9% of the time. About a year after install now and still working great though!
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I work on school buses and every transit bus has those. They don't last long upside down....some of those doors are heavy. With something light it will prolly last forever.
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Went down to Transtar today and had them order the gasket kit for the transmission. It's a Ford FOG (4spd) that we Pinto owners have, so if you are looking for parts for your stock 4spd that's what to call it. The only difference over the years was the gear ratios. Although they cannot obtain synchronizer assemblies, they can get the rings and bearings. The gasket kit, Scott said, should only be about $4.80 or so, just a few gaskets in the kit. I'll have to call back some time and see about the rebuild kit with the bearings and rings.
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Dave,
I want to personally thank you. I have started a project of my own. I have been reading and reading your thread here. So much info, great detail, and a refreshing outlook on the slow day to day that is "restoring". Your car is wonderful looking, and I can tell you have put a lot of time and thought into every detail. There have been many things I have learned from just this one thread. If everyone was as detailed as you are about their projects, I think we would already have all the answers to little questions. I love the way your console turned out, and I think I will use your idea. as well as a few of the others. For someone like me, who is new to the pinto scene, it is great to find so many answers in one place. I will contact you if I have questions about my resto/mod that aren't already answered in the forum. Thank you again.
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lateniteauto, I'm so happy to hear that the information I've supplied over time has and will help you with your own project!
That is actually a big part of the reason why I post everything about my 78's progress here, in hopes that someone will find something they couldn't find else where. I also like having a project log here that I can look back onto and retrieve information I may have forgotten.
There are other great project logs like mine here as well. Dwayne (dga57) and Matt (r4pinto) both have great logs going that are full of info and details. I highly recommend looking around in the Project Logs section and reading through a few.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions, concerns or would like some input on something. I'm almost always online! :)
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There are other great project logs like mine here as well. Dwayne (dga57) and Matt (r4pinto) both have great logs going that are full of info and details.
Gee, Dave... thanks for the plug and I sincerely wish I could claim that distinction, but you've got the wrong guy, my friend. I haven't written anything about my Pinto because nothing is happening with it. You've mentioned Matt - I would also recommend 71pintoracer's (if you're considering a V-8 swap) or larjohnson's (if stock is your thing) logs, as well as any number of others that are available here. There is a ton of good information here but unfortunately I can't take credit for any of it!
Dwayne :smile:
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Sounds like I'm all turned around then! lol
The 78 is giving me headaches again! :(
So today it was raining like crazy and I found out that my wiper post seals are leaking like crazy! Puddles on the floor mats, lucky for me those are rubber, but that doesn't change the fact that they NEED TO BE REPLACED! What should I use to replace them with? Not sure what the original material is either.
On the way home the right turn signal wouldn't work. The light on the instrument cluster is staying on, as in solid, and the tail light and the parking light doesn't flash either. Turning on the left signal works fine though. I changed the brake lamp bulb which was burned out and looks like it has a small crack in it, but it still isn't flashing.
Previously this issue has been related to my turn signal switch getting messed up and I have to pull the steering wheel to get to it. Before I delve into that, what else should I check for? I know a bad ground could cause it, think all this rain has caused issues with the wiring?
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check the relay under the dash, that could be bad Flasher relays are fairly easy to replace IIRC.
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Thank you! I changed out the flasher after dropping my step daughter off at school and it works great now!
Only thing irritating now is that the replacement flasher's body is nothing like the original and has no mounting tab on it, so it just hangs behind the fuse block. Any ideas where to get one that does have the tab?
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Thank you! I changed out the flasher after dropping my step daughter off at school and it works great now!
Only thing irritating now is that the replacement flasher's body is nothing like the original and has no mounting tab on it, so it just hangs behind the fuse block. Any ideas where to get one that does have the tab?
None of the aftermarket replacements have the tab that I have seen. You will have to get one from Ford or the wrecking yards to find one with the tab.
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Just as a reference post, this is a 4spd Pinto vibration dampener. It came off a 73 Station Wagon, but perhaps it will go onto the car if I ever feel like I want to find out if it makes a difference.
1) Vibration Dampener & Hardware
2) Dirt/Crud from it after scraping with a putty knife
3) Big mess from cleaning it up with some old gasoline from Brownie's tank
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Last week we had a down pour while I was at work. While on break I went out to the car to get away from all of the timers and sounds of the HVAC hoods. While sitting in the car watching the rain fall I had water dripped onto my feet and a puddle on the passenger side floor mat. :'(
I'm thinking it started leaking because I reused the original wiper post cowl gaskets which are pretty darn SHOT. So today while I waited for Les Schwab to check the sealing lips on the studded snow tires, I pulled the wiper linkage to reseal them.
While I did not find a true full replacement gasket for the originals, I came up with this (pictures).
I used the 1/4" butyl rubber cord I was originally planning to use to seal around the windshield gasket (it didn't work for that task). I have a lot of the cord left, some of it in clumps and a a few feet left still in cord form. I took about five inches of the cord and mashed it between my fingers to make it semi-flat and pressed it down around the wiper posts completing two circles.
After reassembly, from outside and inside, it appears to have sealed well...at least visually! It has pushed through to the inside of the cowl and mashed out around the inside.
I also used some "Ultra Black" RTV silicone gasket sealer on the bolt threads before installing them. Hopefully this works! I won't know until the next down pour though.
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Dave, that is basically what I used on the wiper posts on my crusing wagon. I am pretty sure you will have no more problems with leaking posts ;)
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Hey, YOU gave me the idea! :D I just couldn't remember where/why I thought to use it while I was posting.
Thanks again! :D :D
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Well so far it's sealed up damn well! Not a drop of water on my floor, carpet or under the dash! :D Keeping my fingers crossed that it stays this way for awhile. George at the glass shop said it should last me about another 20 years before the butyl dries out again.
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I have an order on Rockauto.com prepared. Going to be getting a new flywheel ring gear for the flywheel I have sitting here in the house. Hopefully I can get the clutch rebuilt in February! :D
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The weather is finally warm enough to clean my back window without the glass cleaner freezing to the window!
I initially ordered a PCCA white vinyl sticker for Brownie, but it never showed up. Frank was more than gracious to send me the sticker again, while including a second one for the inconvenience!
So, I now have a sticker on the back window! :D It looks quite nice actually, I love the font!
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Wife bought me a little disco ball key chain to hang from the rear view. Best of all, it's nearly the same shade blue as my car is! :D
Also attached are a couple pictures of the car covered in snow. Just an idea of how much snow we had last month. Note that this is all after ONE NIGHT of snowing! :surprised: :surprised:
After driving around, one morning to pay bills, the car was COVERED in ice. Huge chunks of ice hanging off the back bumper weighting about 7 pounds each, icicles hanging off the wheel wells, the filler neck encased in ice, the insides of the wheel wells had about an inch of ice all the way around! I didn't get any pictures that are clear enough to see all of the ice, but it was pretty brutal out that morning!
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So I am swapping a pair of 78 bumpers plus $15.00 cash for an 8" rear axle, drum to drum, from a Mustang II, gear ratio around 3.00, not 100% certain yet.
Now my question is, can I still use my stock drive shaft or will I need to get a Mustang II shaft...Is a Mustang II axle a true swap, just remove the 6 3/4" and install the 8"?
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I picked up the axle today, what a heavy beast!
Everything is there, has good brake shoes on it still! I ordered a carrier gasket and new wheel cylinders which should arrive tomorrow.
Not sure what the gear ratio is yet, hopefully better than the 3.40 (which is way to low for the 4spd trans) than what I have right now. 3.00 would be ideal for the freeway.
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I forgot to check the tag while I was at my parents dropping off parts, but I will check it when I stop by to drop off the last of the parts for the cars.
I picked up the wheel cylinders and the carrier gasket tonight, and picked up some more brake fluid.
Everything is here for the 78's work, now just waiting for the last of the 73's parts to arrive and the vacation to start! :D
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Yesterday my brother in law and me took the snow tires off the car and put the regular tires on with the steel styled wheels. Happy to have my sporty right back! :)
We got the pumpkin separated, axle shafts out and everything stripped from the 8" as well and drained. Next Tuesday we are painting it and installing it. While we have the drive train torn down, we're dropping the transmission and rebuilding the clutch.
I fixed my wobbly and loose clutch pedal. I drove it like that for about five months and now that the pedal is firm again without any excess movement side to side, it's taking some getting used to, to drive the clutch.
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8" axle is in and a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel! Smoother to drive, no more pulsating rear drum brakes! The drums on the 8" were still good, so I just had them resurfaced to remove the grooves and it's good to go!
The transmission work was another story...
If anyone remembers the gentleman named Marco who had a website and his own junkyard, was trying to sell Pinto parts to us. Well the replacement flywheel I got from him three months after paying for it will not work on my 78 as he stated it would! It is about an inch to thick to be usable, and I cannot mate the transmission to the motor due to it. I was able to get a shop to resurface my original flywheel and I'm using that now.
Also, the clutch I bought from Fred last February is not the correct one for my 78. The teeth for the input shaft on the clutch are wrong. It looks like a T5 clutch to me. The pressure plate is good though.
The release bearing I bought from schucks two months ago is not correct either, the inside diameter is to large!
So last year, getting all my parts together for this clutch work, was wasted. I cannot use the flywheel ($90), the clutch ($70), the pilot bearing or the release bearing ($40 combined). That's $200 down the drain. :(
While I now have an extra new pressure plate and pilot bearing, the flywheel has to be cut nearly in half for me to ever use it! :(
The car drives great now though, it's nice to have it all finished. The 6.75" rear axle assembly with the 3.40 gears that I was using is still low mileage (maybe 27k miles on it), and I plan to put that in Brownie.
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Test pic of the 8" Axle before anything was done to it:
(http://imgboot.com/images/dave1987/8inchaxle.jpg) (http://imgboot.com/user/dave1987/images/8inchaxle.jpg)
I think I have found a good photo sharing host! :D
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Dave, that axle looks really nice... Looks better than the one I got off ebay about 5 years ago & have yet to install. ;D
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Thanks Matt! It wasn't much work at all, although I have swapped out the 6 3/4" axles a few times already before doing the 8" swap.
I would say the hardest part of it all was separating the carrier from the housing to drain out all of the old oil and clean up the insides. While I did find a small amount of rust on the ring gear, it was only on the outside of the teeth and not where the pinion and ring gear mate. I have no extra noise or vibration due to it either. Until I can get a traction lock spool/carrier, I can live with it.
Everything matched up just fine, I am even using the original drive-shaft for the car without any noticeble differences in clearance or spacing between the drive-shaft and the axle/transmission. This truely was a bolt on swap! Everything went smoothly, even the drums which were rusted to hell were able to be resurfaced!
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Time to finish the last minute details to the car before the big show on July 18th! I have to restore the Mustang II lubar support seat track and install it, then touch up some painted surfaces inside the car, and wash and wax. It will be the star of my Pinto display at the show, since it was purchased from the last locally owned Ford dealer in Emmett, and probably the only Emmett Ford sold car left on the road here in Idaho! Should draw quite a crowd!
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Had a local paint shop mix up some black metallic low gloss paint for my dash, it's just about identical to the original paint. It was 18.35 for the paint and 6.95/ea. for the aerosol cans. Not to bad though. I also picked up a can of landau black SEM plastic/vinyl paint to touch up a few spots on the center console where the seat belts rub.
I also found the barrel nuts I have been looking for, for the emblems on the station wagon. They were $2.95 for a small package of 11 of them.
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Had a local paint shop mix up some black metallic low gloss paint for my dash, it's just about identical to the original paint. It was 18.35 for the paint and 6.95/ea. for the aerosol cans. Not to bad though. I also picked up a can of landau black SEM plastic/vinyl paint to touch up a few spots on the center console where the seat belts rub.
I also found the barrel nuts I have been looking for, for the emblems on the station wagon. They were $2.95 for a small package of 11 of them.
That all sounds like a successful shopping expedition!
Dwayne :smile:
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Indeed, Dwayne!
Today I sprayed the top and bottoms of the doors, as well as the window frames. I did the ash tray and the ignition collar on the steering column as well.
After that I hit the center console with some of the SEM Color Coat to touch up some areas that had some wear through to the red vinyl.
Just have the door edge trim to replace, and the air cleaner duct. Then wipe down the engine and compartment and wash the car and she's ready for the big show! :D
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Looking Good Dave!
FrankBoss
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Thanks Frank!
Since I cannot bring Brownie to the car show I'm going to make the 78 look great. Otherwise I would be splitting my time between the cars.
Brownie needs her drive-shaft balanced and the rear transmission leak figured out, as well as a lower alternator bracket. The carb needs rebuilt or something cause it's slow as heck and barely climbs a hill!
I'll take pictures of the 78 before and during the show. The doors look a lot better now with the metallic black paint vs. the old flat black paint I used on them before!
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Hi Dave hey i had a similar leak issue with my transmission on my 73 squire i could not find it. Till one day i was driving it every time i gave it gas tranny fluid would pour out of the fitting at top of tranny.when you were at idle no leak.I ended up pulling pass.wheel off and jacking car at wierd angle to get at fitting and had to customize wrench to fit,otherwise i would have to drop tranny and i really did not want to do that. From that fitting u could not tell where it was leaking from until i started really looking for the culprit. - hope this helps (Don)
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The leak is coming from the output shaft seal. I have an extra one I will put in, but not until the drive shaft is balanced.
The fittings don't leak, I made sure of that when I had to replace one after rebuilding it a couple months ago. The return line fitting was loose but I replaced with another one just for safe measure.
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My dad surpised me by coming into town and we spent a couple hours of the afternoon at the junk yard and found an aerostar aluminum drive shaft to, but it was to long. He left me the receipt so I could bring it back to exchange it. He bought the drive shaft for me as a thank you for taking care of the house while he lives in Oregon. Told him not to but he insisted.
I put new u-joints on the original drive shaft today, with my dad. The jerky pulsating accelleration and cruising under 2k RPM has gone away, as well as the intermittent groan while decelerating. It turns out the front one was pretty chewed up, so we swapped out both front and back with some lifetime warranty ones.
In other news, the manual steering rack and pinion is on it's last leg. I can't find inner AND outer tie rods ANYWHERE for it! There are inners for manual steering, but no outers, and vice versa for the power rack. So, for the time being, I will be swapping out my manual rack and pinon for the power rack I have in storage, just without the power steering pump. Yes, less turns to stop, but it's really not any harder to drive than the car is already. I don't have to parallel park anywhere here, either, so no need to worry! :)
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Shoot. I just saw this post. Had I known you were looking for a manual rack I woulda swapped you the manual rack in my car for your power rack. I replaced the tie rods on it a couple years back & they are still tight.
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Ordered bushings for the control arms, strut rods, sway bar, and steering rack. Also ordered end links kits for the sway bar. Waiting to contract JPL Street Rods in Aliquippa, PA about a steering rack they are offering on ebay, which includes inner and outer tie rod ends from the looks of it. Need to call and be sure though.
This should take care of all my vibration and the left turn popping when I'm done! :D
One question. How should I go about removing the strut rod bolts? The last time I tried to I couldn't get them to break free. Should I spray them down really well with a penetrating lube each day until I do the work?
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Air is the easiest way to get the strut rods loose however I have done it by hand as well. Just use a big cheater bar and get the car off the ground as high as possible. Pass side may be a little tougher due to the exhaust. Just make sure you loosen them before you remove the lower control arm or else they will spin and you will have to hold them with a large crecent or pipe wrench. lubing them up before is a good idea, it should make it easier to bust free,
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Thanks for the advice TIGGER! I had a feeling that would be the answer. I did try using an impact wrench on it and they wouldn't budge. Looks like I need to douse the nuts in liquid wrench for the next few days and hope it helps.
I ordered a rack from JPL Street Rods in Aliquippa, Pennsylvania. They are a retail location there, but have an ebay store and are currently selling an MBM built rack with both inner and outer tie rods for $177.00 and free UPS ground shipping. Bushings were another $16.95 but necessary.
The rest of the front end bushings should arrive in the next week or so.
I'm really looking forward to driving my car like I never have before, without any shake, vibration or slop in the steering wheel, good solid alignment, and no odd knocking and popping sounds
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Bushings arrived today, waiting for the steering rack and then work can commence!
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Tuesday is the big day!
I will be changing out all the front suspension bushings, the steering rack from spindle to spindle, and the wheel bearings. I found out yesterday that my passenger side wheel bearing has been my culprit in the groaning sound (as I suspected) when I slow down, and the inner bearings grinds badly. I last changed these out three years ago, have put about 10k miles on them, but I have been driving the car a bit rough and I'm sure the worn suspension and steering hasn't helped any.
I will be rebuilding the carburetor again next month as well. I have either a sticky accelerator pump or power valve and it doesn't want to drop past 1050 RPM when the motor has been warmed up and I come to a stop with my foot on the accelerator. Only solution seems to be to turn the car off and then back on. At least the carb is easy! :)
Only thing left to do after all of this is flush out the cooling system and put a new thermostat in with a new water pump gasket as well and it will be ready for winter!
Can't wait to use the new 12-ton shop press! :D Yes there will be pictures!
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The shop press came in handy, I can't imagine installing the bushings without it! For precision while installing the A-arm bushings and for the ease of installation, a press is a must have when it comes to rebuilding your front end at home. And with the great place called Harbor Freight, a shop press is affordable to just about anyone with the space to put it! The press I have is a 12-ton standing shop press that my dad bought for me at Harbor Freight for $130.00. It uses a bottle jack as the hydraulic applicator and it does a great job doing so.
Having the press on a three or four foot stand or table would have been much more comfortable though, as I was kneeling or crouched most of the time during all of the work at the press.
For suspension bushings I decided to go with Energy Suspension parts. They are affordable and offer great performance from what I have heard. I bought them at AutoZone since their price was cheaper than O'Reilly's, and it's the same part. The only part I ordered that was not correct were the sway bar bushings. I have a 15/16" bar on my car, and the only bushings available were 11/16" bushings, a bigger difference than some might think. I didn't think to measure my bar before ordering them. :(
End links for the sway bar are Duralast brand. They get the job done as well as any other, and a lifetime warranty. Can't complain to much. They weren't cheap though, for what they are. $25.00 each.
My new steering rack is an MBM built unit that I purchased from JPL Street Rods in Pennsylvania. I had them include a set of rubber rack bushings with it as well, but I will have to see if I can locate some urethane bushings like the Energy ones are. So far no complaints with the rubber ones though!
Well here are the photos I took with some captions the way I have been doing them. Numbers listed according to how they are displayed below, with descriptions of each photo.
Lets start with the upper control arms, more commonly known as the A-arms.
Changing the bushings on these requires fabrication of a spacer between the inside distance of the bushing shell locations. The spacer keeps the arm from flexing and warping during installation of the bushing shells. Extreme pressure is required to install the shells since they are press fit. Quite similar to installing wheel bearings but without anything to stop the bushing shell from being pressed in to far. Below are photos of the spacer my dad and I made. we took a section of 1 1/2" galvanized pipe and cut it in half using his metal cut off saw. It took some daring tactics of my dad's to figure out how to make his small 5" saw cut the length of a nearly 8" pipe in half. It involved removing all of the safety devices (clamp and shield). Daring, yes, effective? YES! I don't recommend doing this though, I was hesitant to touch the saw without the safety stuff on it. I did wear a full face mask and heavy clothing on the arms and legs just in case though.
Once the pipe is cut, it can be trimmed slighting using a bench grinder until it fits snug in the underside of the control arm, it should slide over the inner bushing shells, then rotate around to the top of them until it gets tight.
The pictures below are with the bushings removed, but it makes no difference when installing the spacer. Yes, always have the spacer in place when pressing anything into or out of the A-arm. The A-arms are fragile when abused as they are just stamped steel.
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Before removing the bushings, you need to measure the distance of the bushing shells by measuring from the outside of one shell to the outside of the other shell. If you don't press the new bushings into place at the same distance, you chance having your bushings binding with the cross bar, then you have to start all over again. If this is the case, good luck pressing the new shells out without damaging them! I didn't have that issue though, just take it slow and be patient. Press the shells in until they look like they have seated, then measure. If not seated enough, proceed to press each one in a little at a time, evenly with each side, remeasuring each time you press them in. It takes time, but accuracy is key to proper function and performance of the bushings and control arms.
Here is how I measured: I took a medium sized putty knife and held it against the outside of one of the bushing shells. Next I took a ruler with a square on it. With the square's flat side against the outside of the opposite bushing shell, I extend the ruler until the end of it makes contact with the putty knife, but without any pressure against it, this will give you the length of the distance between the bushing shells. Simple and effective! I wrote the measured length on the control arm itself in black sharpie so there was no chance of forgetting or loosing it through out the job.
The ruler I use is one my dad bought at Sears. The square/level tool slides along the ruler very smoothly and makes it easy to snug up against the putty knife without going to far.
If you haven't already removed the rubber bushing from the shell, you can still measure the distance of the shells by sticking the putty knife between the bushing and the outside shell lip and "wedging" it into place. You will need two putting knifes in this case, though, since the flat side of the square would not have a shell lip to rest against.
Pictures of measuring:
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Pictures 1 and 2) Once the old rubber bushings and inner sleeves are removed, you should have what looks like this.
3) To remove the shells, it helps to have a bolted down bench vice, like I used, to hold the A arm in place while you saw out the bushing shells with a hack saw. It doesn't take long, 5-10 minutes to get through a decent portion of the metal. Not completely through, just enough to make it weak and tear. You will want a saw blade like the one I am using (wide) and made for cutting steel or it will dull/bend quickly. You will need to disconnect the blade from one end of the saw, pass the blade through the bushing and then reconnect it.
4) Be sure to cut the inside of the bushing shell on the side of the A-arm that would be facing downwards when installed on the car. You will understand why in just a bit.
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5 and 6) When you have finished cutting the shell, it should look like this. Not completely through the shell but almost, through in a few spots is okay, but you don't want to damage the surrounding material that will be holding the new bushing in place.
7) Next you you want to take a chisel and a hammer and smash the outside of the sleeve down on either side of the cut; collapsing the shell inwards. It shouldn't take a lot of work, since the cut you made earlier will give the metal somewhere to break/tear apart. You want to do this on distant ends of the shell(s).
8) After a few good hits on either side if the cut you made, the shell should looks like this. It should have compressed enough to pop right out with a light smack or two of the hammer. If it does not, you need to smash it down with the chisel some more until it does.
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Once you are finished you should have what looks like I have in the pictures below! That's it for the hard part! Now you can press in your new sleeves! Remember to measure outer edge shell distance frequently to avoid binding bushings.
Also, a VERY IMPORTANT POINT! Be sure to install the cross bar correctly before putting the bushings in! The bowed out side of the bar should be bowing outwards towards the back of the arm If it isn't, then you have it in backwards and need to turn it around. If this isn't installed correctly you will not be able to put the arms back onto the car until you flip it all around!
I could not find any specified torque ratings for the nuts that hold the cross bar on the arm and the bushings on it. I just set my air impact wrench to the highest setting and spun them on, then continued to let it tighten them up until it stopped moving. I suppose you could torque them down to 85 foot pounds like the lug nuts and not worry, but my air impact wrench does 95 foot pounds at max setting and they tightened up really well.
REMINDER: Don't forget to lubricate the bushings before installing them! The Energy Suspension kit comes with a small tub of white silicone grease that you will use for this purpose. Grease the outside of the bushing and the inside of the shell before installing the bushings. Also grease the inside of the bushings and the bushing sleeve before installing the sleeves. Anywhere that the bushing contacts the metal! This will make installation easier by preventing the bushing from pulling in on itself, as well as prevent any squeaking when the car is back on the road again.
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Now the lower control arms. Much easier than the upper A-arms, since you don't have to fabricate anything! I just took some scrap box steel that was the perfect size to keep the lower arm from collapsing while using the press to remove and install the bushing shells. I just hammered the box steel in on the inside and outside sides of bushing hole and then proceeded to use the shop press to remove and install the bushing shells.
You shouldn't have to cut the sleeves of the lower control arm bushing shells like you did for the upper A-arm shells in order to remove them. Mine popped right out when I used my press to push them out with a good sized socket that matched the size of the outer shell edge. If you are not using a press, you could probably use a large heavy hammer to pop them out. Just be careful not to ruin the arm in the process. Like the upper A-arm, the lower arms are also only stamped steel.
NOTE: The original bushing shells have a flared lip on each end of the shell. The lip must be pounded/tapped down so the shell can be pressed through it's hole without any interference. Be sure to tap down the flared edge(s) before proceeding to press the bushing shells out!
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1) After removing my lower bushings and shells, this is what I was left with. (New bushing components on top, originals on the bottom)
2) The box steel spacers in place to prevent warping and bending the lower control arm(s)
3 and 4) Press set up and ready to install the new bushing shells (held in place by pressure)
The new shells can only be installed in one direction. The end of the bushing shell with the shoulder goes in through the front of the control arm. With this in mind, the original shell can only be pressed out in one direction as well, from the back of the arm through to the front.
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The new bushings for the lower control arms came with the inner sleeves already installed. The inner sleeve and bushing are pressed into place together. Easy to do with a shop press!
REMINDER: Don't forget to lubricate the bushings before installing them! The Energy Suspension kit comes with a small tub of white silicone grease that you will use for this purpose. Grease the outside of the bushing and the inside of the shell before installing the bushings! Anywhere that the bushing contacts the metal! This will make installation easier by preventing the bushing from pulling in on itself, as well as prevent any squeaking when the car is back on the road again.
Energy Suspension bushings use a two piece bushing for the Pinto lower control arms. The bushing inside the shell, as well as a bushing "end cap bushing", which "cushions" the front of the control arm when installed into the cross member.
1) Bushing being pressed into the shell.
2) New bushing installed (view from above)
3) New bushing installed (view from below)
4) Bushing "end cap bushing"
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When reinstalling the control arms with the new bushings it may be difficult due to the extra cushion now present. With some wiggling around it will go right back where it came from though.
1) Bushing "end cap bushing" in place.
2 and 3) Control arm reinstalled with new bushings!
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That's it for the control arms!
Next up was the strut rod bushings. While I was nervous about removing the strut rods, in fear of finding rusted away rods like other members have had, I knew it had to be done if I wanted a nice tight suspension. Lucky for me, living in a fairly dry state and the car not driven much in the winter spring or fall much in it's past, my strut rods are still in great shape!
For those of you considering doing your strut rods, try to locate a good set of them before pulling yours off. You most likely won't want to put them back on after you find out how badly rusted and narrow the metal is where the bushings ride. If they do turn out to be good, at least you have a good spare set!
I also did my sway bar end links. I didn't realize how old and bad the ones I had on the car were until I pulled them apart for the first time. The ones that were on the car were original ford ones, and were like bad strut rods; rusted where the bushings ride and very narrow.
Picture 1) Old strut rod bushings on top, new ENS bushings on the bottom
Picture 2) Old FoMoCo end links on the right, new Duralast end links on the Left
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Last but not least, I installed the new steering rack! Nice and shiney! To bad no one ever sees the underside of my car! :(
As you can tell from the pictures the design is slightly different but seems to be just as durable. A couple of the JPL Street Rods employees have the same rack on their hot rods and have for a few years without any complaints. I have heard some good testamonials about the rack, so I am not going to worry to much. It's nice and tight and rides like a dream now!
The rack came with the inner and outer tie rods, rubber rack bushings, and the dust boots.
Picture 1) Old rack on the top, new rack on the bottom
Picture 2) Rack installed (view from front)
Picture 3) Rack Installed (view from driver side)
Picture 4) Rack Installed (view from passenger side)
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The car rides like a dream, and the front end is unbelievably tight! I really have to re-learn how to drive the car since it doesn't wiggle around, it's not shaky or noisy anymore either. It handles different when accelerating, slowing down, shifter gears, dropping out of gears to neutral, turning, hitting bumps rocks or going up or down curbs....It's like driving an entirely different car and I LOVE IT!
I highly recommend those of you who can do it, to rebuild your front end, you won't regret it! Now I know what it means for the front end to be "tight", and what it feels like to drive a new Pinto! :D
Well that's all for now. I have some other pictures I will post up from some things I've done to the car this year, but I will do that tomorrow. It's late and time for bed.
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You know Dave, my front end is very noisey so that is prolly why. Those bushings are so old & rotted it's crazy. Can't wait to get mine all finished up so the car drives right.
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It really is amazing how different it is. Yes, there is a little bit of road noise, but nothing unbearable. The increase in the performance of the steering alone makes up for that. Bumps don't rattle the front end, dropping from different paved road to another doesn't bounce the car around, and when making turns there is no delay in the steering. Before it would take a fraction of a second for the car to respond to the turn of the wheel in a fairly quick turn, but now it is instantaneous. It also doesn't seem to be as harsh of a roll when turning.
While slowing down and taking the car out of gear to come to a stop the car would sometimes pull or wander off to the left or right, but it stops completely straight now. The same goes when accelerating, it doesn't want to wander off anywhere, it just stays where it is!
I was looking at my old steering rack and I may have been able to get away with new outer tie rod ends, the inner tie rods don't seem to be BADLY worn, but they are not like the new steering rack, where the inner tie rods will stay sticking straight out when set to a certain position. The inner tie rods on the original rack flop around like bunny ears.
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So a couple months ago (July), the wife was out of time visiting a friend in California and I had to work so I stayed behind. I had some extra time on my hands and figured I would figure some way of mounting the adjuster knob for the passenger side mirror. It has been coiled under the dash behind the center cuby since I installed the mirrors a year or two ago.
Some of you might be wondering why I didn't just mount the knob in the stock location under the dash. Well, the sport mirrors are from a Mustang II, and the right side mirror knob isn't a 90 degree mounted knob like the stock Pinto ones are, instead they protrude straight towards the driver from the dash (on the Stang II).
So here is what I came up with! Found some scrap aluminum sheet metal lying around in the garage and went to work with it. However that wasn't going to be ridged enough, or thick enough, to mount the retaining ring/nut, so I had to cut and fab a spacer to put behind it out of arcylic (all I had available). Here's what was done:
1) The bracket panel made from scrap aluminum. The small hole on the top lines up with an existing screw hole under the dash that I have been using as a ground. That way I didn't have to turn the dash into swiss cheese!
2) The bends done to make sure everything looked decent and not just another piece of bent up scrap metal.
3) The arcylic piece that is mounted behind the side of the bracket bezel that the big hole is on. I had to step the circular cut so the ring/nut of the knob would seat tight and flush with the bezel.
4) The bezel installed an in place. It is a bit out of place, but I can always remove it. I just need to find a Pinto correct passenger side mirror with the 90 degree knob!
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And one last picture. It doesn't stand out a lot, which is what I was going for, so that is good. I just know it looks less stock like this and that bugs me, even if other people looking at my car don't know it.
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And the last update for now...
So when I started driving the car and really started enjoying it, I greased and lubricated everything, including the window actuators. One thing I noticed was that the door handle wouldn't stay on at the back, so while I had the door panel off I would take a look and find out why. Well, apparently the fastener clip that the bolt threads into tore away from the door at some point in time, damaging the surrounding sheet metal. My brother made an attempt to weld it into place when he had the car but it didn't last and only weakened the metal more. The clip eventually stopped holding on all together and I had to figure out some way to hold the door handle in place before it put so much stress on the front fastener that it would follow in the rear fastener's footsteps.
So I went redneck and screwed a piece of wood inside the door and the rear bolt screws into it. It works, that's all I can really say! The handle is tight, and should it ever start to get loose again, I can just replace the piece of wood section. lol
This is the most out of whack thing I have done to my car, but at least no one knows...Well, except for you who read this that is!
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This is the most out of whack thing I have done to my car, but at least no one knows...Well, except for you who read this that is!
Well hey, if it works it works!!! Let's hear it for ingenuity!!! :drunk: :lol:
Dwayne :smile:
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That's right. There are some crazy things I would do to this car to keep it on the road and a survivor! That's why my storage unit is 90% Pinto parts!
I bought a new stereo for the car last week, I'm installing it tomorrow. It's a Pioneer DEH-65BT. Black faceplate this time, which is what I wanted before but not available. Some neat options too!
Color changing button lighting and display color, I'll keep it at blue, or white if available.
Black remote (instead of black and silver like now)
USB support! YAY! I'll throw my most listened to music onto the 8GB thumb drive I bought with it and not have to worry about scratched CDs anymore! :D
Bluetooth phone compatibility. Not sure if I will use it, but interesting non-the-less.
The current deck will be transplanted into the station wagon. I'm chopping an old radio bezel to make it work (yes, I'm keeping the original one intact). Brownie has some things going on in her restoration as well, check out her thread for updates!
My dad said he would like to drive the car again next time he is down, to see the difference in handling and ride quality, but he is considering waiting until I rebuild the transmission.
Not much left to do restoration wise. New springs (both leaf and coil), and rear bushings, maybe a locking rear end if I can track one down. After that's it's a paint job, and door and trunk seals and it's all finished! :O
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Well this is rather disappointing. ...
The DEH-64BT that I bought to replace my existing DEH-P3900MP is actually quite a down grade, and it was even the SAME PRICE! :(
Sure it has the multi color LCD screen, brighter, USB input and the bluetooth phone option...
But it cannot support the output to all four of my speakers, and gets extremely hot after five minutes of being on! The audio settings are lacking (not much there to set frequencies), and the remote doesn't even have an ATT or audio setting button, the two most used buttons that I use.
Oh well. The only stereo available right now that is comparable to what I have is nearly $200. I can't justify putting that much into a head unit. Looks like I will stick with what I was using before and get something half decent for Brownie (won't require much since I don't plan to put a high end system in her).
Life goes on!
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Had to get a new battery today, during my routine winter battery check. They no longer carry the Die Hard C-10 so they replaced it with a Die Hard Group 56, but it is only 5 less cold crank amps! The factory replacement is a 385 CCA and the one they replaced it with is a 530 CCA, so I am not to worried about it. With a year and a half still left on the other battery, the replacement was 50% off! :D
I replaced the positive terminal and the felt pads while I was at it.
Hopefully I don't have to worry about it for another four and a half years! :)
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As you all know by now I am a bit on the crazy side of the DIY group....
Well I'm re-webbing my seat belts myself, putting the ole' Bernina sewing machine to some good use! Why do them myself? Well, no local upholstery shop will even consider re-webbing retracting belts, due to liability issues. I cannot fully understand why though, it is actually a very simple design and little can go wrong when one is paying close attention to the quality of the work. Stitch pattern, and thread type are the important part here.
I am using size 138, extra strength nylon upholstery thread, on a conventional machine sized spool. Due to the small size of the thread, I do three to four rows of stitches. If I were to use something larger, say size 207, I would do two rows of stitches.
For the stitch pattern, I do what the upholstery shops do for me with seat belts. First stitching a square, then stitching an "X" through it. For the lower anchor, I did two boxes with X's in them, but with a straight line between them. The original stitch pattern that FoMoCo used was a snake type stitch, but I do not trust that type of stitch as the box with X is stronger with more surface coverage.
This thread in a Corvette forum shows the type of stitch pattern I used. I couldn't get a clear pic of the stitching on my phone though.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-and-c2-corvettes/3022552-62-seat-belt-stitching-pattern.html
The type of webbing I am using is different from the original FoMoCo webbing. Stock Pinto webbing is three bar, with a wide center bar and narrow ones on each side. The new webbing is six bar with equal sized bars throughout the width of the webbing.
Now some pictures:
1) My old belts worn out and fraying compared to the new belt webbing.
2) The webbing difference. It may be hard to see the difference without adjusting your brightness or contrast.
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Looks good Dave, and bound to be a lot safer in a wreck, should it ever happen that is.
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The front end is squeaky, need to put some grease zerks in the shells so I can grease them once a year or so.
I found some decent fog lights at harbor freight to replace the set I was using before (nose dived in a parking lot and broke one of the lenses). These are a plastic body though. :( They will get the job done for the season though, I suppose....
I was using a set of Lucas Pathfinder Firecracker's that my dad used back in the 70s, and have had zero luck finding a replacement lens for it! :( I'm wondering if a glass forming company could make me one based on the one that I have left.. Any thoughts?
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Been awhile since I've posted, yes. I've been lurking though! :P :)
Just ordered hog rings and #69 nylon treated thread, I have the piping already. Tomorrow after work I'm picking up the vinyl.
Hopefully I can start reupholstering the original seats for the car by the end of the week!
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That sounds like an interesting project! Any prior experience in upholstery work? Can't wait to see the results!
Dwayne :)
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Well, I just about finished the seat cushion last night, and coming upon the final stitching, and a test fit before finishing it, the outside edges where the welt cord goes around the cushion, is wavy and not straight.
The reason? The pattern I traced from the original panels is no good. The original vinyl panels are dry, stretched and out of shape that they are no good as a reference. :(
I need to find a seat cover pattern with exact measurements. What I am doing is creating new upholstery for the seats from scratch and nothing to reference off of but the original aged material, which really is a poor reference.
Any ideas where I can get a good properly scaled pattern for 1979 - 80 seat upholstery?
Now I have two 1/2 lb spools of upholstery thread, two remaining yards of vinyl, and 500 hog rings and nothing to do with them, for the time being. Argh!
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Something good now!
I picked up a replacement 4spd FOG transmission for the car last week, found it on craigslist for $45, was sitting outside for a few years in an old race car driver's back yard, said he took it off a blown 2.3 and never used it since the replacement motor had the tranny already on it.
Put a new release bearing on it cleaned it all up, new cover gasket cut out, topped it off and swapped them out today.
I don't have anymore odd whine in 2nd gear and the pulsating in 2nd from 1500 - 2000 rpm is gone! The shifter is much tighter in this, and the shifter when in gear feels much tighter and "secured".
One thing I did notice, though, was that the bolt that goes straight up into the tail shaft which holds the transmission mount bracket to it was missing when I pulled everything apart. I used the bolt that was on the replacement trans and put that in, and the transmission no longer sits ON the bracket. I'm thinking that's where the groaning sound during deceleration was coming from, and just resonating through the car. Now the transmission sits about two inches higher than the rubber strap connected to the catalytic converter.
I'm starting to get good at this transmission swapping thing, I've got it down to three hours with just myself and no other help! lol
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Got some more work done on the Pinto! I have been super busy with work, training new restaurant manager's, fixing troubled stores, developing and strengthening existing managers, and now in training to be a district manager. I finally got around to getting a week of my vacation time put to use, and of coarse, the Pinto wants some attention as soon as it started! lol
A week ago I noticed the exhaust started to sound pretty bad. I looked it over last week and noticed that the pipe (which I have known was rotten and beyond repair for some time now) from the catalytic converter back had finally started to rust away from the muffler inlet. I wrapped a coat hanger around the muffler and secured it under the car, just in case the pipe decided to give away and drop the muffler like a hot potato, glad I did to!
A few years back it started to rust away from the hanger above the axle. I patched the pencil sized hole and it actually was still holding quite well! I took the car in before patching that hanger hole and they said that the pipe was so rotted that welding anything to that pipe would only burn a hole through it due to it being so thin from age. I told them I would just patch it and wait as long as I could before doing any work to it, hoping to get the V8 in before I had to redo any of the exhaust system.
I didn't get the V8 in, but I did, quite literally, wait until I absolutely had to do anything to it!
So two days ago, I picked up a FlowMaster 40 series muffler, and removed the pipe from the cat back to take into Boise Muffler and have them do a copy bend of the pipe for me to take back to the shop (Dad's garage) and install in the car.
I decided to remove the cat while I was at it, since the bolts looked like they had seen better days, and just as rusty as the pipe was. Not only that, but they couldn't even be removed, I had to cut them off at the flange, then push the remaining bolt out with a press. For the cat to the pipe, I had to cut one of those two bolts off. The flanges are still in great shape though! Replaced the bolts for the cat and got a new gasket for the cat to the down pipe, everything sealed up real well! Not bad for a 44 year old catalytic converter shell!
I installed the pipe that Boise Muffler bent for me, and it all DID go together, just not a great fit. The bends they did to get the pipe over the axle were to far apart. They fixed all of that when I took the car back in to them to install the glass pack resonator to quite things down.
When I had them copy bend the original pipe, I had them angle the pipe, from the axle to the cat, upwards about 15 degrees, since the original pipe had sagged so low that I lost 1.5" of clearance and the exhaust would drag over speed bumps!
After everything was installed, the car sounded GREAT! A nice deep growl, just what I was hoping for, but the drone from the exhaust was to much while driving down the road at a constant speed. I loved the loudness at idle, but couldn't stand the drone while cruising, so I took the car into the Boise Muffler shop, and they installed a canister style glass pack resonator, which cut the drone down by about 40-45%. It still has the growl and deep rumble, but it's not annoying anymore.
All in all, here's what I did:
Sized up the pipe from 1.75" to 2.25" from the cat back
Added a canister style glass pack resonator just before the pipe bends to go over the axle
Added a FlowMaster 40 series 16" welded muffler
Installed a 45 degree cut straight pipe tip to direct the exhaust out from underneath the car, lessening drone noise
And here are the pictures!
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And these two show the FlowMaster and the exhaust tip from above. Although I'm not a fan of styled exhaust tips, I'm going to continue using this until I find something better and a bit more conservative that isn't a down turn pipe.
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Dave,
Glad to know you're still working away on that Pinto!
Dwayne :)
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Looks good Dave!!! Can't wait to see and hear in person!
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Nice installation.
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Hello all! Been pretty busy with work this year, haven't had much time with the Pinto so I have been getting some computer projects/hobby done in the short amount of time I have had.
My dad learned that "pintoautocross er" here on the forums, is a co-worker of his. He and my dad go "junkyarding" on a semi-regular basis and on the last quest they were able to get me a 4-speed with 5th/overdrive from an 82 Mustang GT. Not a Borg Warner T5 or an SROD, but a tremec. It's the "RAP" transmission. It will do until the V8 comes, though.... :) The 5th gear/overdrive helps immensely with dropping the RPM at highway speeds so that I can still hear myself think!
Here is the transmission pictures he had sent me over the phone.
Pic 1 - After removal from the Mustang
Pic 2 - After being degreased
Pic 3 - Casing casting ID and lube fill
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We started the job of installing the transmission on a Sunday at 15:00, which would have been just a three hour job, but we ran into a complication.. ...
We got the old transmission out and the new one in an about an hour, however we had to relocate the speedometer cable from the passenger side to the driver side, for one. Then, after we got everything bolted up, we realized that with the original flywheel I have been using, the clutch fork could be pulled completely forwards and against the bell housing without every touching the pressure plate! Then it clicked.....
Lucky for me, I don't discard anything I may find of use, and I kept the flywheel I bought from a fellow from here, about four years ago. This flywheel was nearly twice the thickness of the original flywheel for my car, and now I knew why, because it wasn't for my car, it was for a different 2.3l manual transmission! So we ran back to my place to get what we needed from my shed, including the proper flywheel.
Once the flywheel was in place, we reinstalled the transmission to the car, and started modification to the transmission cross member. The Ford FOG transmission mount is similar to the mustang's RAP transmission mount as far as measurements go. In fact, I was able to re-use the mustang's transmission mount with the Pinto by simply widening the holes/slots for the transmission cross member so that the mount's threaded posts could pass through it. We did this by using a cutting bit in the drill press and hogging out the cross member holes.
The Pinto's catalytic converter/exhaust hanger that is connected to the transmission mount is removable, which meant we wouldn't have to fabricate any type of hanger for the exhaust system, keeping things super simple with this swap!
Pic 1 - Flywheel differences - (FOG transmission on left, RAP transmission on the right)
Pic 2 - Pinto transmission cross member holes widened
Pic 3 - Pinto transmission mount/exhaust hanger in place on RAP transmission
Pic 4 - Pinto transmission mount/exhaust hanger in place on RAP transmission
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Once everything was taken care of under the car, it was time to take care of the the transmission tunnel, and cutting the shifter hole forwards an inch, to accommodate the new position of the shifter. Strangely enough, the position of this transmission seems to be identical to the position of a T5, and modification is pretty much the same. Past research of mine really paid off here!
We cut the transmission tunnel just enough to drop in the three bolt shifter, and a little bit of room for shifter movement. Nothing crazy. The remaining of the shifter opening at the rear of the boot was covered up with a section of sheet aluminum cut to sized and pop-riveted into place using the original shifter boot bolt holes.
Pic 1 - Transmission tunnel marked for cutting
Pic 2 - Transmission tunnel cut for shifter
Pic 3 - Aluminum plate pop-riveted into place to fill gap
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Once everything was reassembled, any changes cosmetically were minor and wouldn't be noticed by anyone else but me. The most noticeable is the shifter location is farther forwards in the center console, but it doesn't bother me any....yet....
With the added weight of the bigger flywheel, we also swapped out the steel drive-shaft for the aluminum aerostar drive-shaft I have, which helped to balance out the weight gain of the flywheel and transmission.
With this larger flywheel (Original clutch pack was re-used), the clutch as a newer-car feel to it, almost like a hydraulic clutch, but this is still a cable pull clutch setup. The clutch is lighter, or rather, does not require as much effort to disengage, and engages closer to the center of the pedal travel.
Shifting up through the gears is pretty slick, but downshifting to third and second requires some effort and almost like yanking the shifter into place, otherwise it's like shifting without using the clutch!
It's like driving someone else's car, but in a good way! :)
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Hi Dave!
Glad to hear you're still working on that Pinto of yours! We've missed you!
Dwayne :)
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Hi Dwayne, and thank you!
I have missed hanging out here with "the gang" as well. I drop in and check up on eye catching topics during my smoke breaks at work, but that's about all of the time I have had as of late.
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Good to hear you're still at it 8)
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nice post!!
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Modified the shifter knob for the added O/D gear labeled as "5"
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Pretty cool Dave :) Your Brownie, my Milo, is getting painted :D You'll have to stop by when he's done :D
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Can't wait to see it finished, Dianne! I will have to make a special trip out, just to see it in person!
I have been working behind the scenes on a custom Pinto cellphone/GPS mount for my car. All I used was some spare 1/8" thick aluminum strip I had lying around, a spare ashtray from the parts box, and a $15 vent-clip-on phone mount from Walmart, "Schoshe" brand, but BestBuy carries one identical to it for $25, with the only difference being the clips for the vents are "specialized and spring loaded". This didn't matter to me, since I was removing whatever mount it had on the back, to fabricate my own way of mounting it to a Pinto ash tray.
The best part about this bracket, is I can replace the phone mount with absolutely any brand or style phone mount I wish. I just simply have to fabricate an adapter bracket/block, or drill the different phone mount in identical places. Also, if I decide I won't be using it for an extended amount of time, I can always just swap it out for my original ashtray!
Mounted against the outside base of the ashtray, I used a 3/8" bolt against a flat washer, and a rubber washer between that and the bracket, then a nylon washer between the bracket and the ashtray. On the inside of the ashtray where the bolt comes through, there is a metal washer against the floor of the ashtray and finally the securing nut.
I did cut the actual tray metal, itself. I removed the top half of the face of the tray, which goes against the front panel (usually has a dimple for the cigarette lighter knob). I did this to allow room for longer phone/device chargers. For the bracket slot, I used the drill press to remove most of the material, and then used a dremel to finish the cut. All the cuts were done with the front panel removed from the ashtray. The panel was riveted back into place in the original locations with washers on the inside.
It is pretty darn sturdy, and doesn't move around a whole lot. We all know how much Pintos shake and rattle, and it does move around some while driving, but nothing excessive! I have noticed that due to the weight of the phone, the tray tends to slide out little by little when braking off and on in traffic or going uphill. I will work on a solution to that, preferably something that will not be visible.
Pictures are pretty self explanatory. I will post installed pictures tomorrow when I have lighting that doesn't washout everything and mess with the contrast.
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All in all, that looks like a pretty niftly little gadget! Good job!
Dwayne :)
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Thanks Dwayne! It gets the job done. I can use GPS on my phone, now, without turning my head from the road ahead of me, at least.
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Looks very cool Dave.
You have to tell them the plans for the car and color!
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Here is the dash/interior now, with the phone mount ash-tray in place. It works great, primarily for GPS, which comes in handy. While it will not be permanently in place, it will come in handy a lot, for directions to places in town I am not familiar with, and for when I am listening to internet radio on the phone while charging.
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Attached in a picture of my car in it's current condition. While the car is still blue, the clear coast has definitely seen better days. About 70 percent of the clear coat has peeled away from the trunk, roof and hood, the quarters are starting to peel now as well.
Funds haven't been the greatest lately, and painting the car has not been possible. Time wise, I haven't been able to get the body work done, which I can't wait to start doing, honestly! I need to finish the quarter panel and door that were hit in the accident about a year and a half ago. Not bad, but the door is deformed a bit. The quarter is pretty much done, just need to perfect the body line and curvature of the wheel well flare. The cowl vent needs straightened (hood came up on the freeway when my dad used to drive it), and I have to patch the quarter panels behind the rear wheels, about 2"x2" patch is rusting out. Not a lot of work, it all just takes time and patience.
Most if not all of you early members remember who Jeff Fitcher was. He was aided in the founding of this wonderful community, and I owe a great deal to him, not only from the knowledge he shared, but his contributions played a huge role in my knowledge of auto mechanics, and without this community, I don't know where I would be in life. This community has been a part of my life through the ups and downs, right from the beginning of me getting my driver's license at the age of 19. Out of all of the message boards/online communities, this place has been the most consistent, and friendly outgoing of them all. I know that no matter how much time I take off of the forums, I know everyone here will not be rude or unfriendly upon my return. Outside of these forums, I call the members here and this community my family.
As for paint selection, I have decided to go with red. The red paint job will be a memorial to Jeff Fitcher and his V8 powered red 78 Sedan. As a side note, I spoke with his son Brodie on FaceBook and while his father's car was sold after his passing, it remains in the family, left in it's greatness that it was in during Jeff's final days. Jeff, you will not be forgotten!
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Dave bring it over and I'll help with the body work, I love doing it! I have everything we need also :)
Single stage with a coat of clear. If you bring it all the way down, the Shave Shop here in Nampa is reasonable and they are the ones doing my car. He was impressed with my bodywork also!
Let me know, if the weather keeps up like spring here, we can get a bite into it. I have a ton of self etching high build primer also. You clean the paint gun though LOL
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I may take you up on that dianne!
Just thought about this too. Without this place, you wouldn't have the wagon! If it went for like minded pinto people, I would never have bought that car, much less took a look at it when the previous owner offered it to me
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I probably would have it Dave, I found you on Craigslist. When you drove it up, I fell in love with it. I know you knew how much I fell in love with it too ahahahaha You wouldn't come down much in price, I was hooked and it wasn't hard to see ;) I drove it for a year while working on it. It's been awhile, but well worth it. What cracks me up is one of my mechanics was telling me about his neighbor with 2 Pintos a blue one and a brown wagon, then I said was it Dave LOL That was sooooo cool! But I may not have done as much as I have without this site, that's for certain! I probably would have never started the 2.3 conversion without a little push from Pinto_one LOL But my guys wanted to swap motors in it, if I left them, they would have put some hopped up Honda engine in it and make it into a slider ahahahaha All I can say is thanks for selling it to me :D
And whenever, I've been dying to work on that thing. I am taking a welding class next week. And yeah, without this place I probably wouldn't be attempting it ahahaha So seeing the stuff the guys do make me want to. I've been eyeballing that Pinto mini stock on Craigslist, wish I could afford it. But if you see one I can turn into one, PLEASE let me know. I want to run it at Meridian Speedway! nexGarage all over it :P The Jeep club will be using us too!
Dave, whenever you can, and the weather is nice, let's do your car!!! We could use the garage, but I think the guys would kill me if I powdered it bad LOL
I'm ready!!!!
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I would have probably been driving a Honda or something if it wernt for this place. I was driving the Pinto when the guy's brother said his brother had a pinto in a field storage corral and if I were interested.
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Cool. I didn't know that part of the story of Bumble Bee :D That's the new name of Brownie/Milo :D
That's cool.
If anyone knows of a field Pinto, please let me know. I'll even do the floorpans :) I'm learning to weld!!! Now that's something I probably would have never done without this place Dave! ;D
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You know... this site has over 8000 members. Obviously, not all of them are active but we do boast a pretty active membership here and I think the two of you have hit on a number of the reasons why. I belong to other car clubs, some with much higher dues, that I don't enjoy nearly as much as I do this one. Whenever you have a group of people, though, a select few tend to work their way into the hearts of the others. Dave's dedication and expertise over the years, and Dianne's enthusiasm and willingness to share her experiences, puts them in that select category. There are many others as well, and I dare not start naming names for I'll surely miss somebody, but we regulars here know who they are and in what ways they have supported and inspired us! To all those special folks, I'd like to offer my humble thanks for making the Pinto Car Club of America the great place that it is.
Dwayne :)
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I agree with that Dwayne. I wish it had more Fords and stuff, that's why I started Misfits. I did that 70 Galaxie and a few others I didn't like. But I really don't want any other cars right now. I don't even like my King anymore to be honest. I love the Pinto, I love my Spitfire and want to build a Pinto mini stock. But it's about the love of the car really, how cool they are, how people point and look and talk about their experiences with one. Everyone has a story like Dave said.
So I want to sell off my Sebring and King, then I have what I want besides the mini stock :) I love my Pinto :D
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Dianne go to 4m.net and look at the Pinto mini stocks. Most are on the east coast but it will give you an idea of what to look for in a racer. If you get nice car you could use it in the hill climbs in your part of the country. There is a lot of Pinto mini stocks out there because most racers have gone to fox body Mustangs. Go for it!
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Dianne go to 4m.net and look at the Pinto mini stocks. Most are on the east coast but it will give you an idea of what to look for in a racer. If you get nice car you could use it in the hill climbs in your part of the country. There is a lot of Pinto mini stocks out there because most racers have gone to fox body Mustangs. Go for it!
Hey Dick, thanks. I don't want to hijack the thread but there is one here. I would rather find one and build it to be honest.
http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/4879467460.html (http://boise.craigslist.org/cto/4879467460.html)
Fox body might be cheaper too, there are bunches here all the time...
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Looks like a nice one! I can tell you from 40+ years of building race car that it will cost 2 times as much to build a racer like the one in that ad. Used race cars don't sell for much unless it has a rich history of wins and championships. And on that car he will take less as he has none or he would say so in the ad.
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Looks like a nice one! I can tell you from 40+ years of building race car that it will cost 2 times as much to build a racer like the one in that ad. Used race cars don't sell for much unless it has a rich history of wins and championships. And on that car he will take less as he has none or he would say so in the ad.
I know, but I want to do it myself :D
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Long past due update!
The clear coat was gone on the hood, tops of fenders, trunk lid, top halves of the quarter panels, and top few inches of the doors. Car was starting to rust in the rock chips and develop rust in other areas.
The process of repainting and body work has begun. Sanding down the entire body of the car to remove the blue paint, down to the original yellow and even bare metal in some parts. Just trying to get the body pretty flat again.
Body work done to repair dents, dings, the smashed in cowl body line, and cut out the rust in the quarter panels. Body work is going very well, all but the passenger door. It is really irritating me about the right side door either being twisted or some severe alignment issues. I will know more when I pull the fender off and try some more alignment trickery to check body lines and panel alignment before the primer and paint process.
Currently I have the door handles and all of the locks removed. All but the rear window chrome trim removed, all of the badges off and the tail lights off.
I will be removing the fenders, hood, trunk lid, rock deflectors, etc...to ensure good coverage during the repainting process, and no yellow or blue paint showing through under all of the fresh paint.
Here is the car as it sits.
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More Body Work:
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Here is the tweaked right side door. Any suggestions on straightening it out or getting the panels aligned, outside of replacing the door?
Its sunk in at the bottom of the door at the jam, but too far out at the rear frame of the window. The body line at the bottom front of the door lines up with the fender, but the top door body line doesn't line up with the fender.
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Dave where are you at with the body repair and new paint?
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Dave where are you at with the body repair and new paint?
Dave hasn’t been active on here for a few years.
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