Author Topic: Restoring my 78 Sedan (Read 116534 times)

dave1987 · « **Reply #120 on:** January 16, 2009, 11:35:22 PM »

The compartment on this console is larger than the Merkur one that I have in the car at the moment. The extra stow-away space will be nice to have!

The e-brake seal is actually in pretty good shape, but slightly chewed up on one side. I ordered a new seal from SSC Enterprises and it should be here sometime next week!

Since my car doesn't have any wood grain trim anywhere on the interior or exterior, I decided to change out the panel/insert in the coin tray for something that better matches my car. I have seen replacement coin trays with stainless steel panels in place of the wood grain one, so I decided to go that route, but for something less expensive. I started by removing the wood grain panel and then used it as a template to cut out a new panel from a 1/16" thick sheet of aluminum which I purchased at Lowes with an x-mas gift card! This actually gives a mild stainless effect, but was significantly cheaper.

The coin tray isn't in amazing shape since a lot of the original chrome has bubbled up, but it will do for now until I can find one in better shape, or afford a replacement one.

1) Compartment sleeve
2) E-brake seal
3) Aluminum coin tray panel comparison
4) Coin tray in place

dave1987 · « **Reply #121 on:** January 16, 2009, 11:38:54 PM »

Since the shifter bezel that came with the console is for an automatic, I will be modifying it for temporary use. I think you guys can figure out what I'll be doing by looking at the pix.

dave1987 · « **Reply #122 on:** January 16, 2009, 11:41:47 PM »

I don't know if the designer or the machinist at the Ford production plant had a lazy arm or what, but neither side of the console base bezel is parallel in ANY way. Each side is different as far as "straight" lines go.

The pictures alternate. First one is of the right side, second is of the left side but of the same section.

Hopefully I can finish the shifter bezel tomorrow afternoon and then do a test fit of he console. Stay tuned!

dave1987 · « **Reply #123 on:** January 20, 2009, 09:51:41 AM »

Last night I was able to finish the shifter bezel modification. Shortly after the last update, I had painted the automatic shifter bezel silver and clear coated it.

Basically I have taken a section of the 1/16" thick aluminum sheet and cut a hole in it, using a hole saw on a cordless drill, just large enough for the base of the shift boot to fit in. I used pictures of the manual transmission bezel for reference and it came out pretty close. After cutting, the edges were filed smooth and the sheet was then polished to a near mirror shine using Mother's Billet Polish.

To secure the sheet to the automatic shifter bezel, I used JB Weld around the inside edge and pressed it between a couple encyclopedias until dry.

Below is the finished product. I plan to have it installed by the end of the day.

dave1987 · « **Reply #124 on:** January 24, 2009, 06:45:48 PM »

I got the console installed a couple days ago. The car was out of commission due to a differential check-up!

Here are some pics of the brackets I used. These are the original Mustang II brackets, which I had to order of eBay. They show up on eBay quite often and are easier to find than the console itself!

It is great to have these available when installing this console, as they fit the Pinto perfectly and no bracket modification is necessary to make it all fit straight!

dave1987 · « **Reply #125 on:** January 24, 2009, 06:48:55 PM »

And some pictures of it installed. I think it matches the era of the car much better than the Merkur one did. Plus I now have a nicer and larger coin tray, as well as a twice as large armrest storage compartment!

First picture is comparison of the two. I ended up having to cut back the vinyl back to match the old console's length so that I could continue to use the stock under-dash cubby.

lencost · « **Reply #126 on:** January 24, 2009, 08:23:40 PM »

Your effort paid off. It looks sharp, and keeping the Pinto cub-be makes it look factory.

Leonard

dave1987 · « **Reply #127 on:** January 24, 2009, 08:39:26 PM »

Thanks Leonard! That's the look I have been going for with all of the modifications I have done to the car. I want the car to be economical, yet comfortable and functional while retaining the appearance of it all being stock.

dave1987 · « **Reply #128 on:** January 27, 2009, 12:52:12 AM »

Unfortunate surprise happened today. I got my W-2 forms and filed my taxes....

I will be getting about $400 less than expected back this year, so I will not be replacing the windshield gasket, floor pan or the ball joints this year. Hopefully I can get the ball joints some time before summer, but the windshield gasket may have to wait.

I really wish I could find another part time job to get out of debt sooner.

larjohnson · « **Reply #129 on:** January 27, 2009, 08:04:08 AM »

Dave1987:
The console looks "FANTASTIC", I was wondering :-\if a Mustang II console would work in a Pinto, now I know :smile:. I have looked at several on EBAY, and thought about buying one for my 1972, but now I think I'll get one and put in the 1971. That'll have to wait awhile too, as I've spent a fortune on the car already, and still need to get the minor body problems corrected :accident:, and the car painted. Maybe by fall. Seems I seen a console though at one of the salvage yards I visited, in a Mustang II, I should go back and check. If there is one, I can probably get it reasonable, and repair as needed. Anyway, you do have a beautiful Pinto... Good Luck!!!!!
Larry :police:

joeykillsyou · « **Reply #130 on:** January 29, 2009, 08:49:15 PM »

hey i live in boise. ive actually seen your car around fairview and you probably seen my rusty baby blue pinto. actually jealouse.

dave1987 · « **Reply #131 on:** January 29, 2009, 10:58:17 PM »

Good luck Larry! I have found two on eBay for about $50 each and $30 shipping. They don't sell very well, as I have noticed, so it shouldn't be to hard to find. The hardest part about finding a suitable one would be the color. I'm still a bit worried about the paint rubbing or scratching off the vinyl, but it has held up pretty well so far. Then again, I baby my car A LOT.

Joey! :welcome:

I've always wondered who drives that car! We should meet up some time! Every time I have seen your car you have always been heading south while I'm heading north. lol I hear that Sonics drive-in has a mini-car-show in the summers on Friday or Saturday nights in the summer. We should try to hit them up this summer and see how much attention the Pintos get in Boise!

I guess we would have to get 2point3pinto and carlharris with a couple other Pinto people I know here in Boise to join up!

I'm being serious though!

Don't forget your put your pin on the member map! I'm getting lonely here in Boise.

dave1987 · « **Reply #132 on:** January 31, 2009, 10:55:55 PM »

I dropped the tank in my car to find out why I was smelling gas after a fill up. I think it was the grommet for the vent valve, as it was pretty worn out, and didn't grab the valve body very tight. Here's what I did, as a reference for others!

I backed the car into the garage, leaving plenty of room behind the car so I could easily move around on the creeper and access the toolbox. I then lit up the propane heater, heated the garage to a more than comfortable warmth, then shut it off (no open heat sources when working on the gas tank!) and raised the rear end as high as I could and supported it with 2 1/2 ton jack stands at the ends of the axle. I also chocked the front wheels so the car wouldn't roll forwards.

dave1987 · « **Reply #133 on:** January 31, 2009, 11:06:53 PM »

Once it was all setup and ready to go, I started by removing the gas cap to access the four torx screws which hold the filler neck to the inside of the quarter panel. After removing the filler neck, I stuck a fluid pump with a long hose into the tank until it hit the bottom of the tank, and siphoned as much gas as I could out of it, making the tank as light as possible to make things easier.

Once the tank was drained, I disconnected the vent valve hose next to the filler neck, the fuel sender connector and the delivery and return lines which run to the front of the car. When I was sure everything was disconnected, I proceeded by taking the floor jack under the center of the tank, raising it just until it touched, then removed the bolts behind the bumper that secure the two tank straps to the body. Once the straps were loose, I slowly lowered the floor jack while supporting the tank with my other hand until it had cleared the car.

I was quite surprised that there was minimal rust around the tank area! The leaf spring mounts, upper shock mounts and the leaf spring shackles are another story though.

I also painted the rear differential cover a couple weeks ago when I was working on it.

dave1987 · « **Reply #134 on:** January 31, 2009, 11:15:18 PM »

To get the vent valve out of the top of the tank, I just pried it up with a screw driver, since the valve and the grommet were both getting replaced.

To remove the fuel sender, I used a drift and a hammer and tapped a tab at one side of the locking ring, then a tab on the other side and repeated this until it was free. Once the ring was out though, I had a bit of trouble getting the fuel sender out, as it was stuck to the original o-ring seal on the tank. I had to skinny a putty knife between the sender body and the tank to break it free.

The inside of the tank has a bad case of rust. I was able to rub a lot off with my finger, but I will need to drop it again in the future when funds are more sufficient and have it boiled out, then sealed with POR-15. For now I just dumped some gravel in the tank with a gallon of gas and shook it around like crazy. It cleaned a lot of the rust out, more than I had expected it to!

The following pictures of the fuel sender and pick-up unit give you a good idea of what condition the inner tank was!

Pic 1) Fuel sender float
Pic 2) What is left of the original pick-up screen
Pic 3) The fuel sender unit stripped
Pic 4) Comparison of the 78 Sedan sender unit, and a 77 Wagon sender unit

dave1987 · « **Reply #135 on:** January 31, 2009, 11:21:11 PM »

I twisted the screen assembly off the wagon sender unit and put it onto my Sedan's unit since it was still clean and in one piece! I then cleaned up the float with a green scotch scrub pad and did a little bit of the same to the sender unit since I had it out. When I was finished cleaning the little parts, I took a scotch pad disc on a pneumatic die grinder and cleaned the sealing surface of the fuel sender to ensure a positive seal once it was all put back together.

Pic 1) Replacement pick-up screen
Pic 2) Cleaned up fuel float
Pic 3) Cleaned up sender sealing surface
Pic 4) Sending/Pick-up unit reassembled

dave1987 · « **Reply #136 on:** January 31, 2009, 11:25:07 PM »

The final step was to put the sender unit back in with a new seal and tighten the locking ring in the same manner it was removed.

Before putting the tank back on, I removed the rust that was starting to form between the tank straps and coated the bare metal with "rust converter" and then spray can undercoated the surface to prevent it from coming back.

To lift the tank back on, it was a reverse procedure of what I did to remove it, and then dump the gas back into the tank by means of a gas can.

Here is a final picture showing the original sender o-ring compared to the new one.

dave1987 · « **Reply #137 on:** January 31, 2009, 11:28:54 PM »

The car was pretty dirty after driving it for a couple weeks in the rain, snow and the condensation building up on it. I decided to give it a bath since the sun was out and it was about 40 degrees out (the warmest it has been in a couple weeks). I just hook up the hose to the utility room, turn on a little cold water, a little of the hot water from the water heater and go at it!

While the car was clean, I decided to put the replacement turn signal lenses on it that I got from the junk yard in Spokane a few weeks ago. I can at least see a little bit through these ones, making the turn signals brighter. The old ones (pictured) are foggy and have several cracks in them. I wish I could figure a way to clear up the old lenses!

joeykillsyou · « **Reply #138 on:** February 01, 2009, 01:38:54 AM »

yeah i want to go to that mini show but i have work. but i work on ustick and maplegrove so i might stop by. and as for showin off my car...nahhh my car is in need of money and i just got back from vacation so my car needs the works right now and yeah i too have a problem with my driver side floor pan. it feels like im a flinstone cause i can probably sqweez my foot in this small rust hole and stop my car hahaha and its been very wet here in good ol idaho so yeah you know what i mean. where did you go to get your engine bored and placed with bigger pistons? i live like a couple blocks away from meridian machine shop across from the speedway.but yeah i too want to keep at my 77 pinto.

dave1987 · « **Reply #139 on:** February 01, 2009, 09:01:40 AM »

My mom's cousin did the work for us. Looking at the original receipt from the motor work, it was done at Joe's Motor Machine Shop, 1101 N. 27th Street, on State St. I do not know if it was discounted or not, since my mom's cousin has known the guy since the late 60s. We paid $769.38 for the following:

Engine kit (less cam & followers)
Lifters
Vavle seats
Spring shims
Cam bearings and installation
Rockers
Plugs
Glass beaded (entire block and head)
Drill & tap Rails
Degrease and boil out
Rebore
Pistons and piston alignment
Crank polish
Head shaved (not sure how much)

Total of $435.46 in parts, and $268.00 in labor

This was done on 9/8/03, but google maps shows they are still around.

It was a lot of work he had done for us going through people he knew and trusted. I'm very thankful for his efforts and want to drive out to horseshoe bend to show him the car 5 years after all of it.

orangekrush · « **Reply #140 on:** February 06, 2009, 02:53:42 AM »

that thing is just awesome!! i also have a 78 coupe mine is orange and in exelent shape 78k all original. well exept the appliance mags. it looks as if your in idaho. if you have no plans in september on the 19th id love to see it at my clubs show!! the Crook County Rodders cruise to central oregon. its in prineville. we have a good turnout around 500 cars. anyway i love pintos and id like mine not to be the only one in attendance there. so if ya got the time and money. come on out!!!

dave1987 · « **Reply #141 on:** February 06, 2009, 09:37:09 AM »

I would be more than happy to go! It would have to be a one day trip thing though, as my sister's birthday is the day after, but I can work something out!

I found an original rubber trunk mat at B&T yesterday, which looks and fit so much better than the gray fabric my brother put in there!

I also found the "under-dash A/C shield" from a 76 with factory A/C, so I will be finding some way to make it work and still have my vent pulls.

I pulled two 14x7 Western Wheel 4 lug slotted mags off a late 60's mustang coupe. However, research shows that they are Datsun 280Z bolt pattern, and measurements confirm that they won't fit my axles.

Also yesterday, I received the wood grain dash panel in the mail from Kim (pintogirl)! Thank you soo much Kim! I trashed the one that I pulled from the 77 Bobcat here locally by not measuring enough times and cutting the gauge holes too big. I plan to paint it black and have the silver pinstripe on the top and bottom. I hope it comes out okay.

pintogirl · « **Reply #142 on:** February 06, 2009, 08:48:39 PM »

Quote from: dave1987 on February 06, 2009, 09:37:09 AM

I would be more than happy to go! It would have to be a one day trip thing though, as my sister's birthday is the day after, but I can work something out!

I found an original rubber trunk mat at B&T yesterday, which looks and fit so much better than the gray fabric my brother put in there!

I also found the "under-dash A/C shield" from a 76 with factory A/C, so I will be finding some way to make it work and still have my vent pulls.

I pulled two 14x7 Western Wheel 4 lug slotted mags off a late 60's mustang coupe. However, research shows that they are Datsun 280Z bolt pattern, and measurements confirm that they won't fit my axles.

Also yesterday, I received the wood grain dash panel in the mail from Kim (pintogirl)! Thank you soo much Kim! I trashed the one that I pulled from the 77 Bobcat here locally by not measuring enough times and cutting the gauge holes too big. I plan to paint it black and have the silver pinstripe on the top and bottom. I hope it comes out okay.

I hope it comes out ok too!!! I want to see some pics. if it does!!!

dave1987 · « **Reply #143 on:** February 12, 2009, 10:37:05 PM »

Today I got the A/C shield on the car. I figured that I would get it done before the dash panel since it needed to be painted. At least, then, the paint can be dry by the time I get the rest of the dash work done!

I had to drill a somewhat large hole in the shield to still have a functional vent pull on the passenger side. Since the A/C cars didn't have fresh/cool air vent pulls (for obvious reasons), I had to cut a small section out of the top of the shield to make a notch for the vent pull guide/hanger and drill the hole mentioned earlier.

Here are some pictures three hours into the paint's drying process. The last two photos show the notch I had to cut out of the top of the shield to make room for the vent pull hanger.

dave1987 · « **Reply #144 on:** February 12, 2009, 10:44:13 PM »

The first picture shows the odd location of the hole drilled for the vent pull. Notice it is isn't exactly right on the fold in the plastic. Not easy to get accurate, since it was about 1/8" lower than that fold.

The hole wasn't the only modification needed to be done to make the vent pull remain functional. I also had to fabricate a new pull shaft. I used a 1/8" steel rod I purchased from Home Depot. I started by using my dad's propane torch to heat the rod to a bright red color, then pounded one end flat against the bench vise with a large hammer. Then I heated it again and added the loop at the flat end. All of this so that it would be as identical to the original pull shaft as I could get it. Somewhere along all of this, I lost the original shaft, otherwise I would have snapped some comparison photos.

This new shaft is about 1-1.25 inches longer, since the A/C shield sticks out a little farther than where the vent pull knob would originally stop when pushed in all the way.

dave1987 · « **Reply #145 on:** February 12, 2009, 10:50:24 PM »

Dad's camera doesn't take pictures as clear as mine does, so I will try to get some better pictures of the shield later. It could be a little while though, as we are expecting snow for the next five days!

I went ahead and ordered new ball joints and steering bellows from RockAuto.com tonight. $122.92 with the ground shipping. I figure that if I'm planning a road trip down to Utah, I better chance this out and get an alignment done before summer! Now I just need to save to purchase the windshield gasket from autokrafters.c om and do the repair this summer.

pintogirl (kim?), I will try to get the dash panel done next week. I am just very nervous about cutting holes in a nice dash panel again, since I trashed the last one!

Updates may not come as promised. Dad lost his job (contracted to micron to install their machines), and things are kind of crazy around here right now. If I disappear for some unknown reason, it means we had to give up the internet. If all else fails, I will try to get to the library to check back here.

discolives78 · « **Reply #146 on:** February 12, 2009, 10:51:25 PM »

I saw one of those shields in the junkyard a few months ago. I broke it trying to remove it, but wanted to install it in my car to hide the workings of the heater that are visible in the footwell. I hadn't gotten as far into it as thinking about the vent rod. That looks like it took a lot of time and patience, and the result was worth it!

Chuck

dave1987 · « **Reply #147 on:** February 12, 2009, 10:58:21 PM »

Maybe 4 hours of work of cutting, fabricating, painting and installation.

I installed it for just that reason, to hide the heater box and junk under the dash that just looks tacky! I swear that we share the same mindset for resto-modding our cars, Chuck!

To remove it, you have to remove the glove box insert. Once removed, there are two screws that hold it to the dash, about 1.5 to 2 inches away from each end (of the shield) along the inside of the dash. They are 1/4" (I think) screws, the same size as the ones for the vent pull hangers. Once these are out it should just fall off.

I rarely ever see them, and just had to get it when I saw it at my new regular yard!

dave1987 · « **Reply #148 on:** February 18, 2009, 06:50:38 PM »

Ball joints arrived today! YAY! I hope I can get some time to install them before the end of the month.

I will finally be able to get my alignment done since the engine rebuild was done!

Here are a couple of better pictures of the AC shield. Also, a couple pictures of my next mini-modification!

discolives78 · « **Reply #149 on:** February 18, 2009, 09:47:39 PM »

Thanks for the advice (hopefully I'll see another one someday). The interior looks great! I like the hybrid shifter and the way the MII console nestles the factory cubby hole.

Chuck

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Author Topic: Restoring my 78 Sedan (Read 116534 times)