Author Topic: Project Warhead (Read 12369 times)

rob289c · « **Reply #150 on:** January 22, 2023, 08:41:47 AM »

Every little bit of progress gets you closer to the end. My Mustang restoration was a 14-year project. I started on the thing I'm working on in late 2019 after acquiring the back half of the Mustang several years prior, and the Pinto at least 2-years prior, along with parts collection along the way. Work, Family, $$$, and other life events get in the way of quick resto projects. Keep at it...

warhead2 · « **Reply #151 on:** February 08, 2023, 12:50:44 PM »

Did some more work. Took off the rockers arms and removed the lifters. Then I cut out some of the rusty battery fender area out. Still have more to cut but need smaller cutting wheel to get into tighter areas. Also I'm getting my co2 tank for my welder, I'm excited about this, I have been procrastinatin g about getting it. Bought my mig welder 2yrs ago on sale. I'm ready after practicing for a little bit to start replacing metal. My goal is to have it running and almost drivable by end of the yr. May not be 100% done but this is my goal.

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Wittsend · « **Reply #152 on:** February 09, 2023, 11:01:56 AM »

Not sure what your plans are but when I went to the 2.3 Turbo in my 2.0 '73 wagon I replaced a considerable portion of the battery area and relocated the battery at the front of the drivers side. It made a lot more room for the turbo and with the wagon the trunk (or better said the lack of one) didn't offer that option. It was at least 15 years ago so I can't tell exactly how I did it but the pictures should help.

warhead2 · « **Reply #153 on:** February 12, 2023, 09:41:33 PM »

Witt I plan on using the original 2.3 with some simple mods to boost HP like ranger cam n rockers and 2in exhaust . I would love to get an 2.3 turbo one day .

Got my 80cfu co2/argon mix bottle. Then started removing my valve springs got 2 off so far

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Wittsend · « **Reply #154 on:** February 13, 2023, 12:55:39 PM »

I fill my bottle very infrequently (of late about every 5 years). As best I can tell yours looks LOOK the same size. Mine is about 3 feet tall. It was $60 the last time - about a year ago. I was SO GLAD I upgraded from the tiny bottle I use to have (about 18") to what I have now. At the time it was only $30 to upgrade. How many pounds of pressure do you weld with? I'm typically between 5-10 PSI depending upon (light) wind, and my fear I'm not using enough..., or inversely running out of gas before the project ends.

If you are getting the cam out of a self serve wrecker make sure you take something to get the Phillips screws out of the rear retaining piece on the back cam tower. I wound up using a variable screw driver set Phillips bit (about 1" long), a stick of wood to pry holding pressure on said bit and an adjustable open end (Crescent) wrench to rotate the bit in the tight confines between the tower and the firewall. And frankly it was nerve wracking as to whether the screw would strip, the bit would break or the wrench would slip over the hex of the bit. Some say it doesn't matter but I would bring 12 pre-numbered Baggies for the rockers too.

warhead2 · « **Reply #155 on:** February 14, 2023, 08:13:37 PM »

Witt I haven't welded anything yet just hooked up the tank. I looked up the setting most were say 18 -22 cfh for a 1/2 nozzle higher if you are outside with wind max 30cfh. My tank is 3ft tall its 80 cubic ft

Definitely will keep the screwdriver bit driver in mind for when I go to the junk yard

I definitely have lots of ziplocs full of parts and with papers identified where they came from

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warhead2 · « **Reply #156 on:** February 18, 2023, 04:38:01 PM »

Took the cam out, and almost got all the valve springs out, also got the mig welder all set up now. Had a funny thought is call the welder the spicy metal glue gun lol.
The Phillips screws that hold the cam came out easily.
I was able to get all the head bolts loose but one. I sprayed it with oil, need to get a cheater bar on it. Does these sleeves look normal? I'm going to switch cams and would need to put new sleeves in.

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warhead2 · « **Reply #157 on:** February 20, 2023, 12:10:53 PM »

Got all the springs out, messed with the one head bolt that is not moving. Still can't get it to move it feels like it moves just bearly when I tighten it then try to loosen it. I had sprayed PB Blaster on the very top of the bolt but there was still oil sitting there. I took a pick and went around the edge of the head of the bolt maybe moving some oil gunk so it can hopefully get down there. But I did notice that where one of the exhaust header bolt gos to the block, at the back of the hole is the head bolt. So I sprayed some PB in there hopefully that will work better since its much closer to the threads. We will see Friday. I do have a impact but only had a 13mm chrome socket 3/8 with an 1/2 adapter, I tried it briefly but didn't want to mess it up.

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warhead2 · « **Reply #158 on:** March 04, 2023, 12:21:33 PM »

SUCCESS!!!! finally got this stubborn head bolt out. Tried the impact several times no luck then Tried the breaker bar and it moved a little made me scared for a second, thought I might be rounding the head or The bolt was about to snap or the socket was about to twist off the bar. Checked the head and the socket n bar all were good. So I continued slowly. The bolt kept moving with a few loud snaps then it continued to turn. But I got it out and looked at the threads were full of carbon as you can see in the picture and a picture the hole had a bunch of carbon powder in it. Compared to the other bolt the threads were clean. Also took the head off pistons and walls don't look bad for sitting since 1989 and 40,000 miles. The head came off easily used a block of wood and 5lb sledge hammer to tap both sides then at the corners upwards.

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rob289c · « **Reply #159 on:** March 04, 2023, 07:51:59 PM »

You're going way further on you r engine than I am going on mine. I don't know the condition of my engine but after driving it I will soon know how much oil it uses. I should replace the valve stem seals since they came with the engine gasket kit but I've never done them and really don't want to mess with the valve train at this point.

warhead2 · « **Reply #160 on:** March 04, 2023, 11:21:36 PM »

Quote from: rob289c on March 04, 2023, 07:51:59 PM

You're going way further on you r engine than I am going on mine. I don't know the condition of my engine but after driving it I will soon know how much oil it uses. I should replace the valve stem seals since they came with the engine gasket kit but I've never done them and really don't want to mess with the valve train at this point.

Yeah I what to strip it and get the block dipped to get it cleaned inside and out, since it has sat for 34yrs. With the block cleaned im going to paint it. You can get a cheap borescope on Amazon that you can connect to your phone and inspect the pistons thru the spark plug holes

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warhead2 · « **Reply #161 on:** March 05, 2023, 10:11:40 PM »

Not much to report but I finely used my welder to practice for a little bit. Been 15yrs since I mig welded
Was practicing on 22 gauge metal. Not too bad lol

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Reeves1 · « **Reply #162 on:** March 06, 2023, 10:24:53 AM »

Get more grinding/sanding disks

warhead2 · « **Reply #163 on:** March 08, 2023, 07:37:02 AM »

Quote from: Reeves1 on March 06, 2023, 10:24:53 AM

Get more grinding/sanding disks

Definitely lol

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warhead2 · « **Reply #164 on:** March 10, 2023, 09:17:23 PM »

Got the oil pan off tonight. Everything looks good for sitting so long but it also had oil in it so that helps.

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Wittsend · « **Reply #165 on:** March 11, 2023, 11:30:07 AM »

Yes, engine looks clean! Not sure what OP gasket your engine had, but if it was the silicone type there might be sticker shock. Nearly 15 years ago it was $25. I reused mine after some here said they also had. Engine is now 35 years old and the gasket is still holding up. If I recall correctly (it has been a long time and I'm getting older) there are metal inserts so the gasket doesn't get crushed. If you can evenly file them down a bit it would help to tighten up the gasket.

BTW, how is the sheet metal replacement going? I'm months into replacing the floors in my Corvair station wagon. I'm making the floors out of galvanized roofing. It is a s-l-o-w process.

warhead2 · « **Reply #166 on:** March 12, 2023, 12:30:14 PM »

Looking good Witt . I haven't messed with sheet metal in the last few wks. Getting closer to start replacing metal. Just got my welder all set up need to get an auto darking helmet to help with getting lined up.

Witt don't know if you know but you have to be careful welding galvanized metal it releases a toxic gas when its welded on.

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Wittsend · « **Reply #167 on:** March 13, 2023, 11:06:26 AM »

Yes, thanks for the health tip. As it is the welds come out like crap unless I grind the zinc from the weld site. There are over 200 welds so far and nothing has happened. I have all the doors open and I have to wait between welds for the heat to subside. Basically I lean in, weld for a few seconds then I'm out of the car.

What I find odd is that a lot of people recommend "Weld Thru" Primer - which is zinc. But they never say anything about the vapors when they recommend that. Based on an article I read some guy said that the 95% zinc paint was similar and he used that. I tried a light coat of that and wound up trashing my first panel when half the welds were bad. When I'm done I will pour thinned paint around all the weld sites and let gravity do its work to creep into the creases. The factory never used weld thru primer on these old cars. Both sides will get Rustolium and the bottom undercoat. Never snows here, hardly ever rains and I never have the old cars out when it does.

warhead2 · « **Reply #168 on:** March 14, 2023, 04:18:41 PM »

Got the inside of the oil pan cleaned up. Still need to clean the outside. The bag is the bolts for the pan

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warhead2 · « **Reply #169 on:** **Today** at 12:32:56 AM »

Finally got the crankshaft pulley off. After trying several things. I tried using a rubber strap wrench but that didn't work. I was able put socket extensions thru the engine stand and into the rear crankshaft flywheel holes. Was able to stop the crankshaft from moving. Also took out the oil pump shaft and noticed some of the teeth are chipped. So far the only bad part that I have found on the engine. Kind of weird being only 40k miles on the motor.

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Wittsend · « **Reply #170 on:** **Today** at 12:06:31 PM »

Maybe it was a casting flaw that broke off under use. Or, maybe that tooth was ground slightly off and broke the first time it turned??? Goes the other gear show any markings from the broken tooth? If not it might be an indicator that it can be reused. ... (moments later) I never had one that far apart. Is that the drive gear for the distributor?

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Author Topic: Project Warhead (Read 12369 times)