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Author Topic: Project Warhead  (Read 9010 times)

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Offline Reeves1

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #90 on: August 28, 2020, 09:58:13 AM »
Put on some truck bed liner on passenger side and some anti rust coating in the strut arm/ frame area. So i tried to install the old studs on the new strut arm and couldn't get it to go any further. Im going to measure the hole and the stud. I believe the holes need to be drilled out just a hair. Ill post my findings in the next few weeks. The strut arm is from Speedway.

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Make darn sure before you drill !
Those bolts are not meant to turn. OEM was likely pounded / pressed in to cut the grooves like you see in your old ones.

Offline warhead2

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #91 on: April 05, 2021, 04:20:29 PM »
Small update. Called Speedway and talked to one of the experts and he advised me to use a 7/16 20 lug bolt. I tried pressing in with a ball joint press got it almost all the way in may need to use a hydraulic press. But it looks like this size bolt will work.
Does anyone know if the thickness of the head being a problem vs the original that is much flatter? Looking at pictures it doesn't look like it will interfere with anything.

I then cleaned up a little bit of rust  on the drivers frame head n running lights. Just primed it to cover the bear metal. Will clean the frame all the way when i get my bast cabinet set back up.

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Offline Wittsend

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #92 on: April 06, 2021, 10:39:22 AM »
Can't answer your questions but... .  Does it cause anyone else to ponder the fact that we are warned that a microscopic scratch can become a stress riser that can cause a part to fail. Yet lug bolts and a lot of ball joints are pressed in with a multitude of jagged edges?

Offline Reeves1

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #93 on: April 06, 2021, 05:06:54 PM »
OEM bolts do not need to be pressed in. Yours may be a bit too large.
If you press them in they may fail ? Depends on how much pressure is applied......?
(I would not do so)

Offline warhead2

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #94 on: April 06, 2021, 07:35:39 PM »
OEM bolts do not need to be pressed in. Yours may be a bit too large.
If you press them in they may fail ? Depends on how much pressure is applied......?
(I would not do so)
This is a lug bolt the same as wheel lug bolt. It needs pressed in because of the knurl to keep it in place and not spin when taking on or off the nut. I think it is a little bit harder because it is a new strut arm that hasn't had a lug bolt in it. It has to cut the knurl as you press it.

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Offline warhead2

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #95 on: April 23, 2021, 05:46:57 AM »
Worked on rear floor pans some tonight. Cleand up some rust and then primed it. Then cut into some rust bubbles to see how far the rust spread. Will have to do some more cutting before I find someone good metal.

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Offline warhead2

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #96 on: April 23, 2021, 05:55:02 AM »
Here are most of the body rust spots that I will need to cut out and weld in new metal when I get a tank of Co2.

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Offline Wittsend

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #97 on: April 24, 2021, 07:18:54 PM »
Just a guess but I'm think that 99% of the time rust rearward of the door/above the sill is from water getting in where the rear, side windows pivot. Maybe if you live were it snows it is different. But my car is Californian and I still have rust there. It looks like there is a box beam behind the rocker and that is why the rust is up high. Another member posted pictures and I'll put some up here.
 My passenger side floor was shot and I made a replacement floor out of sheet. But other smaller areas that aren't too bad I used POR-15 and their mesh. Sounds like a cheap way out but frankly I have had cars 10+ years doing this and it looks like I did it yesterday. Getting too old to think it will matter going forward for me. The picture is dark but all I have. I make the dimples with two different sized sockets on either side of the metal and hit the smaller with a hammer. It worked but it is easy to get the sockets out of alignment (you are doing this blindly) and I permanently marked my index finger when the 5lb hammer slipped and hit my finger!  >:(

Offline warhead2

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #98 on: April 25, 2021, 05:33:03 AM »
Just a guess but I'm think that 99% of the time rust rearward of the door/above the sill is from water getting in where the rear, side windows pivot. Maybe if you live were it snows it is different. But my car is Californian and I still have rust there. It looks like there is a box beam behind the rocker and that is why the rust is up high. Another member posted pictures and I'll put some up here.
 My passenger side floor was shot and I made a replacement floor out of sheet. But other smaller areas that aren't too bad I used POR-15 and their mesh. Sounds like a cheap way out but frankly I have had cars 10+ years doing this and it looks like I did it yesterday. Getting too old to think it will matter going forward for me. The picture is dark but all I have. I make the dimples with two different sized sockets on either side of the metal and hit the smaller with a hammer. It worked but it is easy to get the sockets out of alignment (you are doing this blindly) and I permanently marked my index finger when the 5lb hammer slipped and hit my finger!  >:(
Mine is a cruisen wagon so no windows. Maybe the panels had a leak but also had field Rats and mice in the 30yrs it sat Maybe rat pee?? Also this is an Oklahoma car and still in Oklahoma so no heavy road salt. Also we do get some snow so maybe it froze on the outside in that area or worked its way in. I didn't remember seeing any rust streaks by looking from the inside that area but will double check this week with my Endo scope. Thanks for the suggestion.

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Offline Wittsend

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #99 on: April 25, 2021, 02:28:21 PM »
That's interesting. Does the Cruise Wagon have the slots cut for the window pivot point with a rubber or plastic plug? Or is there no holes in the area?  My wheel well looks fine, no rust through. Thus the only logical place for water to get in was the window pivots. I wonder if the cars with non-movable rear windows get rust there too???


Now that I think about it..., I have the aluminum trim that sits rather horizontal and can very well become a channel for the water that drips off the windows. There has to be holes to mount that and maybe that is the source of the water??? Ford wanted you to buy a Pinto..., and three years later buy a Mustang. Like they should have cared.

Offline warhead2

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #100 on: April 28, 2021, 06:13:13 AM »
That's interesting. Does the Cruise Wagon have the slots cut for the window pivot point with a rubber or plastic plug? Or is there no holes in the area?  My wheel well looks fine, no rust through. Thus the only logical place for water to get in was the window pivots. I wonder if the cars with non-movable rear windows get rust there too???


Now that I think about it..., I have the aluminum trim that sits rather horizontal and can very well become a channel for the water that drips off the windows. There has to be holes to mount that and maybe that is the source of the water??? Ford wanted you to buy a Pinto..., and three years later buy a Mustang. Like they should have cared.
Im not sure I will check tomorrow. I will have to remove the carpet panel inside but ill see what I can see with my endo scope camera first and take some pictures. There was no trim on mine. Im sure someone else might chime in on Cruising Wagons with rust in the same place.

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Offline warhead2

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #101 on: April 29, 2021, 11:18:42 PM »
I forgot to take my endo scope camera with me but I checked slightly behind the carpet panel. didn't see any rust streaks on the panel or in the lower panel.  Another thought is maybe some water seeped into this seam in the corner of the door frame on the car.

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #102 on: June 28, 2021, 11:27:08 AM »
Did a little bit of work last night. Was going to install my new from speedway strut arm but the one of the holes on the lower control arm was off by a little bit. I tried with everything loose but didn't work. Looks like i may have to bend it some how to match the original.

Then I cleaned up some more of the passenger fender area also removed the brake cooler box then primed and sprayed undercoating. Didn't spray the bumper bracket yet going to remove it and clean it up.

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Offline Reeves1

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #103 on: June 30, 2021, 02:20:38 PM »
Lower control arm should move enough to line the holes up....

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #104 on: July 02, 2021, 02:28:35 PM »
That's interesting. Does the Cruise Wagon have the slots cut for the window pivot point with a rubber or plastic plug? Or is there no holes in the area?  My wheel well looks fine, no rust through. Thus the only logical place for water to get in was the window pivots. I wonder if the cars with non-movable rear windows get rust there too???


Now that I think about it..., I have the aluminum trim that sits rather horizontal and can very well become a channel for the water that drips off the windows. There has to be holes to mount that and maybe that is the source of the water??? Ford wanted you to buy a Pinto..., and three years later buy a Mustang. Like they should have cared.

When you take the side panels off it basically looks like a window wagon minus windows with a few additional holes for the hardware to secure the side panels onto the car.  You could theoretically take the side panels off and put glass back in if you wanted.  Everything is there.
79 4cyl Wagon
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78 Cruising Wagon (sold 8/6/11)

Offline warhead2

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #105 on: September 22, 2021, 11:20:58 PM »
Ok an update have only done some small stuff. I got the driver's spring readjusted was not in the bottom grove properly and got the upper n lower ball joint connected to the spindle. Then just clean n primed and undercoated the lower radiator support. Also sprayed flex seal on my hood hinge boots. Drivers boot was in good shape no rips. passengers boot is alot worse them a big split. I got both cleaned n coated l got 2 coats on both but will have to work with the passenger one to get the crack sealed. But this is my update incase anyone was wondering.

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #106 on: September 23, 2021, 10:40:15 AM »
It will be interesting to see how the Flex Seal hold up. why do I see an image of Phil Swift spraying a Pinto with Flex Seal and driving it across a lake. LOL You might consider model aircraft fiberglass with Flex Seal applied as a possibility for the holes in the boots. Maybe it is something that can also be 3D printed? There are a number of "rubbery" plastics available.

Offline warhead2

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #107 on: September 23, 2021, 06:32:03 PM »
Lol on the flex seal Pinto. I have some fiberglass drywall tape maybe that will work place on the inside then coat it.

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Re: Project Warhead
« Reply #108 on: October 03, 2021, 02:25:57 AM »
Worked on scraping some seam sealer inside the floor area no picture. Then decide on cleaning the underside on drivers rear passenger floor. I used a sanding sponge to clean up then mineral spirits to clean. I put down primer in preparation for undercoating with truck bed liner. Forgot a pic of the primer. Only worked this small area for now.

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