Author Topic: Pinto Powered Mustang Roadster (Read 117487 times)

rob289c · « **Reply #90 on:** October 04, 2022, 08:11:02 PM »

Crank pulley off, Intake off, water pump off, t-stat housing off. Exh manifold bolts loose but haven't taken it off yet. Need to R&R timing belt and tensioner, but need to clean up and prime and paint the inside of the timing belt area before replacing belt as it will be left exposed. I will start degreasing the block, head, and oil pan and prepping for primer and paint. I have a Mid-80's T-bird valve cover so the one on it won't be used. Progress...

rob289c · « **Reply #91 on:** October 06, 2022, 07:11:31 PM »

Today I removed timing belt, aux shaft sprocket, Crank sprocket (both were a PITA!), removed timing belt housing, oil pan, valve cover, and other pieces/parts. I cleaned and degreased the removed parts and hardware. Primed and painted block, oil pan, new water pump, t-stat housing, timing belt housing, timing belt cover. I have a couple of pics below. My phone wouldn't send all the pics so I can't post them all. I need to remove the cam sprocket so I can replace all three seals. I will paint the cam sprocket as it will be exposed. So far it's looking good. I need to get the rest of the pieces/parts done so I can reassemble and reinstall before month-end.

dga57 · « **Reply #92 on:** October 06, 2022, 09:53:49 PM »

It is, indeed, looking good!!!

Dwayne

rob289c · « **Reply #93 on:** October 07, 2022, 09:07:46 AM »

Thank you...I will do more this weekend.

Scott Hamilton · « **Reply #94 on:** October 08, 2022, 09:58:29 AM »

Nice! -Love your garage,

rob289c · « **Reply #95 on:** October 09, 2022, 05:47:17 AM »

Thank you. I made more progress yesterday. More cleaning, degreasing, priming, painting of parts. I replaced the crank, cam, and aux shaft seats. Started reassembly. Will do more parts prime & paint today. I will do more assembly today. I will have to cut my day short...I have a 5+ hour drive this afternoon as I will be working out of state this coming week. I will post more pics of my progress later.

My garage: it started off life as a 22.5' wide x 22' deep attached garage. When we moved here in 2003 I really wanted to live a little more in the sticks and have a 40x60 pole barn. I cam across this house in a small rural development. It is on a circle with about 40 homes and I am on the outer ring on a dep lot that backs up to a nice hedgerow. The house was 4.5 years old and almost in foreclosure. The former owner was a single mom that pretty much trashed it so with some cleaning, painting, and flooring we got a a pretty nice newer home at a bargain price. The deep lot gave me the idea that I coule add on to the garage to create my own "pole barn". So now I have a 22.5' wide by 66' deep garage. The whole setup is pretty nice. Over the years I've made the place the way I want it. In the Wintert serves as a garage to house 6 cars, 2 motorcycles, shop equipment and tools and other stuff. In the Spring, Summer, Fall it is a shop, and it also serves as a "party hall". Now I will complain...22. 2' isn't wide enough. Of course the whole thing should be at least double in size!

dga57 · « **Reply #96 on:** October 10, 2022, 07:48:18 AM »

The story of your house sounds like mine, with the exception of the deep lot. It's on the outer edge of a circle, was four years old when we bought it, but had been totally trashed by the original owner. We bought it for roughly half its appraised value at the time but there was a lot of work to do. Fortunately, it was mostly cosmetic and within my scope. I spent the first couple years whipping it into shape, and I have to say it has served us well. We will have lived here 25 years this coming December, and the house has undergone several renovations to meet our needs. My problem is that it's a large house on a small lot... no room for a garage at all. Oh well! I would have moved on years ago, but my wife was one of those kids that was uprooted and moved due to her parents' work for her entire life. She attended over a dozen different schools and never felt she got to put down any roots or form any lasting friendships. When we bought this house, she said she was never going to move again! So far, she has stuck to her guns on that attitude whenever I've mentioned the possibility, but I still hold out hope that we can move someday. I could do with a little less house and a nice garage; for me, that would be Heaven.

Dwayne

rob289c · « **Reply #97 on:** October 10, 2022, 08:40:11 AM »

Over the weekend I got the timing assy put together and continued cleaning/degreasing/painting parts. I had to quit a bit early on Sunday as I had a 5-hour drive ahead of me. Had to mow the lawn/zoop up leaves, and other chores so I could be away for a week. Pics below of my progress. The valve cover got a quick spray of black paint (it was blue), then I sanded the ribs to bare aluminum. I like the look. It will be powder coated as a permanent coating. I had to trim and massage the baffle under the oil filler cap in order for the gasket surfaces to mate. It is only on temporarily so I can see how it will look. I cut the timing belt cover down so I can see the cam pully go around when running. I degreased and painted the intake with aluminum engine paint. I have more to do but it will have to wait until next weekend...

rob289c · « **Reply #98 on:** October 10, 2022, 05:01:10 PM »

While degreasing the intake, I noticed the coolant port felt slimy so I took it to the kitchen sink and ran hot water into the port. dirty water and small bits of debris were coming out. I continued to fill and shake the intake and more and more debris loosened and came out. Eventually water started coming out of the small hose barb and more and more debris started pouring out. I kept it up for at least 10 minutes until clean water and very little debris came out. I noticed a little more external grime so after taking it out to further clean it I decided to run hot water through it again. Glad I did...large chunks had loosened came out. Classic sign of a poorly maintained cooling system. There is probably similar debris in the block's water jacket. Once it is time to run the engine again, I will run some coolant system flush through it. I am a little leery of doing that as I know some of the dislodged debris will re-lodge itself in small spaces and maybe do more harm than good. What do you guys think? I asked in a previous post what it is and what purpose does the thing in the picture serve? I am pretty sure that's where the debris was hiding before flushing the intake. What was not cooling when the small hose port was plugged? There is a 2-hose vacuum port on the opposite side from the water barb. Just trying to understand what all the vacuum -operated components do so I can decide what to keep and what I can eliminate.

davidpinto · « **Reply #99 on:** October 10, 2022, 06:25:29 PM »

I BRAZED UP THE WATER PORT ON MY INTAKE ,BOCKING IT OFF AND GOT RID OF ALL THAT EXTRA PLUMBING.MOTOR WARMS UP FASTER <SAVING FUEL>AND LOOKS A LOT CLEANER TOO.

rob289c · « **Reply #100 on:** October 10, 2022, 06:40:52 PM »

So no overheating or no other negative effects? It is plumbed into top heater pipe that runs along side the valve cover. What is/was it's original function?

one2.34me · « **Reply #101 on:** October 10, 2022, 07:16:01 PM »

Rob, when I had my 2.3 out, I changed the freeze plugs. The one in the back of the head looked good, but when I removed it there was an area on its' backside almost completely corroded through. With your freeze plugs pulled you can reach into the block and remove a lot of gunk and material from the water jacket with your fingers and a magnet.

rob289c · « **Reply #102 on:** October 10, 2022, 07:45:30 PM »

What is the best way to remove them? Hammer and screwdriver and pry them out? And for replacement... tap them in with a hammer? Is there a special installing tool? Do you put any sealant on the lip before installing? I've never replaced them...it was always done by the machine shop after hot-tanking.

one2.34me · « **Reply #103 on:** October 10, 2022, 09:41:45 PM »

Get an old extension or big screwdriver or punch and with a hammer hit the plug right inside the edge. It will drive the plug sideways in the hole and you can pull it out with pliers. You can put a film of sealant on the outer edge of the new plug and use a similar size socket or such to tap in the new plug.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=removing+freeze+plugs&&view=detail&mid=D1411E708B1592EB8697D1411E708B1592EB8697&&FORM=VDRVRV

rob289c · « **Reply #104 on:** October 11, 2022, 05:13:57 AM »

Got it...thanks!

davidpinto · « **Reply #105 on:** October 11, 2022, 07:13:09 PM »

ROB289 :NEVER HAS OVERHEATED EVEN ON THE HOTTEST DAYS.I PUT A 5/8 DIA H PIPE IN FRONT OF HEATER VALVE SO WATER CIRCULATES ALL THE TIME.OLD FORD TRUCKS HAD THEM FROM THE FACTORY.

rob289c · « **Reply #106 on:** October 13, 2022, 11:58:24 AM »

You must not have heat in your car? I was planning to reinstall the hater box if there is room. I won't get to that until some time next year....

davidpinto · « **Reply #107 on:** October 13, 2022, 06:16:14 PM »

I HAVE HEAT ,NEW HEATER CORE TOO.THE H PIPE BYPASSES THE HEATER CORE WHEN THE HEAT IS OFF.WATER COMES OUT OF WATER PUMP AND RETURNS TO THERMOSTAT HOUSING.TURN HEAT ON AND VALVE OPENS TO CIRCULATE THRU HEATER CORE AND BACK TO THERMOSTAT HOUSING>THE H PIPE PART # IS 84515 FOUR SEASONS LINE.THIS SET UP WORKS WELL.

rob289c · « **Reply #108 on:** October 15, 2022, 05:29:55 AM »

I looked at a few vendors and the H-Pipe is not in stock. I am far from that point in my project anyway so I will check again in the future. Thank you for providing the P/N!

davidpinto · « **Reply #109 on:** October 15, 2022, 11:59:20 AM »

HERES A PIC OF MY HEATER HOSE SET UP

rob289c · « **Reply #110 on:** October 16, 2022, 05:26:55 AM »

Is your heating system otherwise stock or is that an aftermarket heater valve?

davidpinto · « **Reply #111 on:** October 16, 2022, 03:18:08 PM »

IT'S A STOCK HEATER VALVE

davidpinto · « **Reply #112 on:** October 16, 2022, 03:25:23 PM »

CAR HAD AC,GOT RID OF THAT, SO HEATER VALVE IS VACUUM OPERATED.NOTIC E VALVE IS ON THE HOSE FROM WATER PUMP.

rob289c · « **Reply #113 on:** October 16, 2022, 07:20:47 PM »

Mine was not AC so I don't think I have that same type of valve. When I get to that point I will investigate further and see if it is something I can easily do.

rob289c · « **Reply #114 on:** October 16, 2022, 07:36:12 PM »

The pics below represent the progress I have made to date. I installed the fuel pump, fuel pump bracket, thermostat, motor mounts, intake, carb, distributor, power steering pump, alternator, belts. I degreased and wire brushed/wheeled the exhaust hangers, rear tie downs, tranny mounts, accelerator linkage and the line from the fuel pump to carb. I sprayed them all with rust convertor. I will spray them all black over this week, although it is supposed to be cold so I may wait until next weekend. The header, air cleaner and valve cover are just on temporarily. The header will come off before putting the engine back in the chassis. I will bolt the stock exhaust manifold and lifting ring back on for the installation. Next weekend I will change the tranny filter, then bolt the engine and tranny back together in preparation for reinstalling the assembly back in the chassis. If I have time I will assemble the front suspension, brakes, and steering. If I run out of time, I will just roll it into the corner until April/May. I have an issue with one of the motor mounts and will post my question/concerns on the "Ask the Experts" forum. Moving right along...

rob289c · « **Reply #115 on:** October 22, 2022, 06:48:42 PM »

Today after doing a PM, Tire Rotation and Rear Brake Job on my daily driver Mazda 6, I removed the header from the 2.3 and re-installed the factory exhaust manifold and rear lifting lug. Then I removed the engine from the stand, installed the ring gear and plate, the torque converter, then bolted the engine to the tranny. Then I bolted on the starter. I removed the tranny pan and cleaned out the green oil that was in there. I had previously drained the fluid...not sure what the green stuff was. I installed a new tranny filter, then cleaned, primed and painted the tranny pan. I installed the new trans mount. Tomorrow AM the engine-trans assembly will go back in the chassis. I have to wash the two Harleys, the Mustang, and the Mazda. I need to start arranging the garage for Winter storage. I think I am going to have enough time to assemble the front suspension before the cold sets in. That will put me ahead of my goal for this year. At some point I have to run the mower around and zoop up leaves tomorrow so I may not get to the front end...I have a couple of weeks before we start mandatory Saturday work days so I think I can get it done.

dga57 · « **Reply #116 on:** October 22, 2022, 08:35:24 PM »

Now, THAT is progress!!! I'm impressed!

Dwayne

rob289c · « **Reply #117 on:** October 23, 2022, 05:18:20 PM »

A little more progress...i reinstalled the engine this morning. My goal was to get it back in before November 1 so since I met the goal a bit early, I am planning to assemble the front suspension. If I don't get to it, I made good progress. If I do, I'll be in better shape to get it done next year!

dga57 · « **Reply #118 on:** October 27, 2022, 11:15:24 PM »

Congratulation s on meeting your goal and good luck on assembling that front suspension. It would, indeed, put you in a good position for next year!

Dwayne

Wittsend · « **Reply #119 on:** October 28, 2022, 10:56:49 AM »

I have to say I'm envious of you guys that have all that garage space. I have a 2 car garage that between counters/workbench and laundry is more like a 1-1/2 car garage. My long unattended Sunbeam Tiger has sat on jackstands in the middle for 22 years. You sure are diligent. All the best in the completion.

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Author Topic: Pinto Powered Mustang Roadster (Read 117487 times)